Leaderboard

Added the VisionCunt optic to my arp9 for those PCCs vibes.

My new toy.

@SeniorSpaz87 go away you're not allowed to play anymore 😉 Seeeing as there aren't any pics of proof required... I've got GPMG, an Apache in the post, and last one I promise a AC 130H 😁

Well, what else do you do at 3am on a slow night shift? Attacked it with a file then worked up to 1200 grit. Feels smooth enough and no sharp edges to damage the rubber on!

Quick review of the Golden Eagle m870, as some are from rather dubious sources. I've owned all sorts from model gun company oddities to the aa12, I'm not too fussed to say if I have bought something a bit shit, frankly I'll say so. Like the WE Luger I bought and am certainly not bitter about. Anyway, It comes in a decent box, with 3 shells, and a speedloader. I'm 2,000 rounds into this gun now, backyard arsing around and a full day of cqb at the mill. It's more than the luger managed. Externally: The paint finish is average to poor, however the wood is of a relatively decent standard of finish. The controls feel positive and there's very little wobble. Skirmishing: Mine has been consistently gas tight, and you can expect 4 to 5 shells from 1 gas fill. I initially thought the gun was broken from the start, as it took a lot more effort than I expected to cock. The mechanism has taken some wearing in, getting smoother and easier as it is used. 6 shot is where it's at with this, it overhops 0.25s on 3 shot, whereas on 6 shot the grouping is perfect for airsoft use and the range is more than adequate. The same can't be said for a certain piece of Chinese made knockoff ger... Getting sidetracked. It does seem to be quite picky on shells, this may be something that beds in with further use, or it may not be., further time will tell. Something important to mention is I've had 4 or 5 jams over the course of the day, all but one very easily sorted. Most of these were this morning. This may be another case of bedding in, and is also common to the original marui. On the whole, I'd reccomend one. Unlike a WE luger, they're shit. But that's another story.

Things have certainly changed since my day - then it was Beer and/or Mary 🥴

Been waiting for these to come back into stock at Gunfire - got the email notification this afternoon and ordered it straight away: The Viper Sound Tech 310 x 55 silencer / goob silencer. Mines going to go over the outer Barrel for a PhatBoi look 😎 Edit: and guinea pigs 🥰

I've got a T10, and it's a good alternative. It is VSR compatible; I swapped out the guts from my Cyma 701 and they all went in no problem and work well. The fake magwell for storing a magazine is very handy, and having a straight, non-tapered outer barrel (Same ID as a G-spec) makes it better for adding barrel spacers than a VSR pro style. It's running with an AA hop unit and AA teflon cylinder, with the laylax Zero piston. (it comes with a 90 degree trigger as standard, so you save money there; despite the higher initial price of a T10 compared to a TM or clone VSR-10).

Oh my, where to begin. After selling almost a grand in BFGs and Marui guns (I forgot how in-demand those are stateside), and receiving my first paycheck since early March I went on a bit of a shopping spree. I guess I’ll list everything since then. So to begin, guns. In late March (before I knew work was about to go away for awhile) I got a good deal on a VFC G28 LE, and an even better deal on a G28 with a cracked lower. I may try to repair the lower st some point, but it’s never going to be pretty. Instead, I had the idea to try to create a 417a2. So I have a G28 LE all decked out as a DMR, and a second upper set up as an a2 in a “Battle Rifle” configuration. I had to buy a short 417D rail and barrel, and I am in talks to get the rail cerakoted in RAL to finish the look. That’ll still take at least another month so I’m holding off on accessories until then, but I’ll likely end up with either a good ELCAN replica or Eotech XPS/G33 combo in tan/bronze. I’ll likely add a M600 light variant and a Magpul AFG, all also in bronze/FDE. Next, I’ve been sitting here bored with not much spending money and a lot of time. Begin the painting projects. FreedomStencils had Partizan stencils in stock, and Amazon had plenty of spray paints, so I ordered what I needed and rattle-canned a half decent Fall Partizan camo on my spare Maska-1 for my Tanchanka loadout. I thought, huh that was fun, let’s do another. So a second order of stencils was placed, this time in Flecktarn. Now I made things difficult on myself with both these - there are tons of tutorials on how to stencil both Partizan and Flecktarn, but very little to nothing on their tan variants; Fall Partizan and Tropentarn. My and my mates have been slowly converting to Tropentarn from the Krypteks, but helmet covers are non existent. So I figured I’d paint my helmet in Tropentarn and get a tan cover. Best of both worlds. Figuring out the color scheme and order was difficult for both, though Tropentarn has only three colors so that was fine. Spray paint helmet #2 was done, and turned out loads better than helmet #1. Pictures of both have been posted in Loadout Pics. So back to no job and a lot of free time. Well, stencils are fun, let’s do a third project. If I’m running Tropentarn then why shouldn’t I run Flecktarn as well as my green side. First, I don’t really have a good green PC. My Protech Titan Assault vest is amazing, but it’s tan. I got a good deal on a Flecktarn PC CRYE cut. While the smaller JPC style isn’t my thing, I can work with it. Next comes the helmet. Flecktarn covers do exist for FASTs, but my big head and Chinese FAST replicas don’t agree with each other, so I have since moved to the vastly superior MTEK Flux line of helmets. I was lucky to snag a pre-production model last January and it’s been my only helmet since - it’s so nice. But that helmet is now Tropentarn, so I can’t do that in Flecktarn... Well, luckily the Flux line only just released a few months ago, so time to order a green Flux. I threw some other things in with the order including some HPA grip lines. Luckily I ordered a 6-sheet set of Flecktarn stencils but only used two for my Tropentarn helmet, so I had exactly enough to attempt a Flecktarn paintjob as well. After some paint ordering fiascos (I now have 6 shades of green, 3 grey, two tan, and three brown) I finally decided on a color combination I agreed with. Begin painting. It turned out well - better than the Fall Partizan despite being one color more, but not as good as the Tropentarn. I’m not entirely happy with it - the mix of black, rust, and grey in Flecktarn combined with the black Velcro, NVG amount, and rails makes it a bit difficult to tell the helmet is a green camo. This brings me to my next and most recent purchase (I’m doing these in order of project, not necessarily order date). I’ve always ran comms at MilSims, and through work i have access to a good set of TCI Liberator II ear pro, with a mic. However the band is difficult to use inside a helmet so I need a helmet mount. The Flux uses Mlok rails instead of the Crye style, so i needed MARK attachments. I have some for my tan helmet, but I was placing an order with TNVC anyway so I ordered some in black for my green helmet. I also learned why I’ve never gotten my Libs to work on my helmet - they need an adapter called a SERA adapter to work. So add those to the cart. They’re sold out most places though TNVC had them in a tan four pack. Oh well, I might paint two of them black to match my other helmet. Now as some of you know i run NODs. Usually that’s a gen 3 PVS-7, though i do also have a single PVS-14 and a FLIR thermal monocle I can use. All these make helmets front heavy, so i meed counterweights. The FLIR and PVS-14 I can get away with only using one counterweight, but the PVS-7s are bigger and bulkier and require two. My tan helmet has a CRYE counterweight system and an EOD counterweight. If it’s broke don’t fix it, so add one of each of those in OD to the cart and place the order. Those will be here soon and then I have a decision to make. If the OD pouches + the Flecktarn are enough to ID the helmet with my Flecktarn kit as green then the helmet is done. If not, then I will paint the side rails and NVG mount OD as well. I’d rather not as I have a black FLUX cover for indoor use with my Kryptek Typhon loadout, and is like that to stay all black. We will see when that all arrives. Next is my minigun. No, not microgun. I do have a M134 minigun I use for Juggernaut games, and I may mount it on a technical some guys I run with use. However it’s hop rubber system is decayed and needs replaced. After failing to get Classic Army to help me I did some work myself and ordered 1.5mm rubber rods from McMasterCarr. Only cost $.58 a foot, so that was easy. Hopefully that will fix my minigun problem and get the massive thing off my work table. Onto to my MPX. Yes, MPX. I have one, it’s a ground up build. I’ve been after a MCX AEG grip for months to finish the build, and I finally found one off HopUp. Check that project off the list once it arrives. Since we are moving to German kits I need German patches right? So I ordered some. Some subdued German flags, some custom US/German flag hybrids in tan and Tropentarn, some miscellaneous patches, you know how it goes. Next came an order I placed back in March; a LeoKochler Combat Shirt in Tropentarn. I found one in stock in Germany, but only one. So sad. That finally arrived and is so much better than the thick BDUs I have. My custom Crye-cut Combat Pants also arrived. Took months, but they look and fell exactly like a Crye so I’m happy. Add a Tropentarn neck tube thing and I’m about done. Then I picked up a nice NVG recorder. I’ve always wanted to film some night shoots, so that’ll be fun. Next I got a great deal out of nowhere yesterday - a guy was selling a Krytac LMG complete upper, two box mags, and a complete upgraded barrel setup for about 150 quid. Couldn’t pass that up. Even if I end up reselling it later on, it was too cheap to pass up. Final thing, I swear. Since I had some spending money after selling all those BFGs I finally got a gun I’ve been after for years. A Bingo MP7. I have big plans for this thought i wont reveal them yet. So I bought the gun, 6 long mags, two short mags, another random long mag, tan rail covers and a Magpul RVG, an Acetech AT2000 for inside the Angry Gun suppressor (came hollow), an Odin MP7 adapter, and a tan HOA line and that project is on hold for now. It’ll be a real beaut once it’s done, but like the 417a2 it’ll be a bit.

My boog loadout

@Steveocee I’ve just ordered a “knock-off” MK23 (asg) from patrolbase on Wednesday which is hopefully arriving Monday and ordered some upgrades for that from Longbow and skirmshop.nl which all has arrived, a TDC, a barrel and hop-up rubber and gonna have a tinker with that and if that goes well I’m more inclined to go the base model and upgrade/tinker as it’s needed with rifle, but if I screw up it’s not a expensive one. @Hudson Cheers for the info but it’s made my decision a touch harder, but I might hit you up a bit (if I may) if I do go down the T10 route

Is it me or the notification system is having a brain fart? I'm constantly getting notification of messages posted hours ago 😕

The cooldown is caused by the expansion of the gas, so insulating the gas chamber won't help. If anything it will reduce efficiency & performance by making it harder for it to warm back up & recover after shooting. The main benefit I can see to plastic is it'll reduce wear on the magazine catch.

Most likely the akm with the underfolding stock.

Im not all that concerned with having something which is 100% real spec which is why I left real sword out as an option due to the price. By the looks of it ill be going for an e&l

PMs not loading properly today for me. They send but they endlessly loop as you send them so they appear to not send even though they do.

No, but it is a Longbow 😉 Moving targets? Bored of silhouettes?? 😁

Ive owned 5 LCT's and one E&L i only have one AK left and its an E&L I would agree that LCT are slightly easier to work on E&L do feel different but it's marginal, which used to make it easier to choose the LCT based on price. If the prices are now similar and if the variant you desire is made by both I would pick the E&L

280 on 0.25s, 30 yards and you'll have a person size spread. It has been a great gun to be honest.

It works! If took five attempts, but got there in the end. Thanks for your assistance, the instructions tell you you start in Semi Auto first and dont mention pulling the trigger first! Kev

^ I have a modded prusa mk3s with a bondtech extruder which is potentially better than what he has :))))) Please pick me as I am a poor student and need YOUR money

Used to nearly say LCT as a default but since the Nuprol deal with the corresponding price increase, a lot less difference in prices. Is there a particular model you are looking at (tactical/Cold War era)? Find the LCT easier to work on but the E&L is slightly sturdier.

Depends on what your after, but for AK parts there places like Cold war collectables, Zib militaria, ComBloc market on reddit just to name a few for AK/Comblock weapon parts. There also milweb they list a lot of UK dealers of deacts who deal in surplus parts as well: https://www.milweb.net/dealers.php?catID=16

What BBs are you using? If you are using the ones that came in the box with the gun - ditch them and buy some quality ones.

My update is a tad less exciting than @SeniorSpaz87's update lol... suffice to say I may have just pulled the trigger on yet another TM recoil but this time a 416D.. I figured I'd just add a suppressor (already have), a vertical grip (already have) and a delta stock (need to find someone selling one) and voila I have a DEVGRU.. (blame Seal Team on SKY....meh)

Are you fully winding the magazine? Wind the wheel until the sound report changes and the wheel becomes a hair stiffer. The spring needs to be under tension to load bbs into the hop chamber (it's what you're calling breech). Failing that, test if the nozzle retracts enough to chamber the bb. Turn the gun upside down so that the hop chamber feed tube sits on top, without the mag inserted try dropping one bb in the tube and fire a couple of shots (pointing it in a safe direction is a given). If the bb doesn't "fall" then the nozzle isn't retracting enough to chamber it.

Hello there chumps. Are you into the pistol caliber craze? Do you want something this is lightweight and practical? Do you want something that is better than the ARP9, lookalikes, and everything else in its price range? Then, this is the one for you. Allow me to explain why: Introduction So, I stumbled into this weapon not too long ago: https://www.evike.com/products/89987/ And, I was thinking to myself: "wtf is this". I'm sure most you would think that. It is a cross between an M4 and an MP5, using an M4 body contoured towards using MP5 mags. This creates a rather unique aesthetic, one that I grew to enjoy over time. I then discovered this version: https://www.evike.com/products/94439/ A grey bodied SBR with an MLOK rail and silencer. And holy shit, this thing was cool. They are also only around 2kg! Ridiculously lightweight. Perfect for fast and lightweight-geared players like me. As I waited to gather funds, this thing eventually released in the UK and EU. Specifically, the black MLOK and silenced version from Taiwangun: https://www.taiwangun.com/en/electric-3/pdw-sbr-sd-black-king-arms?from=listing&campaign-id=14&q=pdw+sbr No, this isn't the cool grey version that I wanted. However, it still looked pretty cool and classy in black. For only £160.52, this competes against all those CYMAs, NUPROLs, Specna Arms, G&G Combats Machines, and the infamous G&G ARP9. Cool looking, cheap, practical, and compatible with generic parts. It was a no brainer that I bought it as soon as I had the funds available, as well as a few CYMA 120rd mid cap mags. This totalled around £200. Patrol Base also has them and sell for £180: https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/king-arms-pdw-sbr-sd-assault-rifle?pv=10344 This is more expensive, even with shipping. And, they do not have the CYMA MP5 mid caps; only the high caps. With the miracle work of UPS, the package arrived in once piece: I had already removed the packaging earlier from excitement. It was wrapped in black plastic wrap with a lot of rounds of bubble wrap underneath. Pretty well protected by Taiwangun. Opening its contents: More bubble wrap to secure it in place. Respectable. Removing that further: What a clean beauty. No problems or missing items. Although: This tag is telling me this gun is shooting too hot for most UK sites. Seems like I will have to downgrade it before I can use it. This is what the small bag off goodies contain: 2 different backstraps for the grip and a flat price to replace the bump on the front. I tried on a few and I quite like the smaller backstrap: Though, I will keep the standard one on for now. External Feel Picking this gun up for the first time, it felt incredibly light which was not surprising since it has a plastic body. It has a metal MLOK handguard, not plastic unlike most people say. The plastic body has a matte finish and does not feel cheap at all. The metal handguard is smooth and has a solid feel to it. The trigger is flat and metal, giving good leverage. The stock is plastic, retractable, and does not rattle or move around when shouldered. The stock tube is also plastic and has a decent amount of space for a large lipo. The metal rods that lock the stock in place are metal with a matte finish. Personally, I was not planning to attach anything to rails, so I removed them to reveal the smooth and straight rail: The rails are easily removable using a metric 2.5 hex key. It has an odd but understandable design on the other side: It is essentially an M4 body, and all they did was overlapped the forward assist area until the dustcover matched an MP5 ejection port size. Quite hilarious but logical to be honest. Pulling back to charging handle: This reveals a traditional, and shitty imo, hop up chamber. Nothing special. It does not lock back; the bolt release on the other side does absolutely fuck all. One small problem that I immediately noticed is that the o-ring for the silencer seeps out like a fat guy's beer belly splurging out of his t-shirt and over his trousers. Not a pretty sight: I tried realigning it several times. But, it became clear that it just would not sit properly. So, I removed it and that was that. Additionally, there seem to be small tolerance issues with the body: The upper and lower don't quite align exactly. However, it is still sturdy and does not rattle when handling. Therefore, this is acceptable to me. The handguard wasn't exactly straight out of the box also. I rectified this by removing the handguard by the 4 screws and clamping the rail and body together using a red dot: I then reinstalled the screws and it appeared much better: Next, I had a go at fitting and comparing the magazines: On the left is the King Arms magazine, and on the right is the CYMA. The quality in build difference is noticeable: the King Arms feels like a flimsy bit of plastic, and the CYMA is much more sturdy in comparison. The King Arms magazine is also slightly thinner than the CYMA. This naturally meant that the CYMA magazine was a tighter fit. However, it works just fine with a bit of breaking in: Weighing the gun: 2042g without a mag. 2120g with the King Arms mag. And, 2188g with the CYMA mag. Overall, super impressive weight. Around 2.2kg with a battery, mag, and BBs, is an incredibly practical package. Getting to the battery compartment meant removing the stock: To remove the stock, there is a large button under the buffer tube that you press to release the positioning of the metal rods. When it is at its extremity, you need to push down the button as shown in the photo above to get it completely off. A small buffer tube cover is then revealed and is it super intuitive to remove: The battery space is fairly generous and should fit the vast majority of lipo sizes out there. Test Fire Unfortunately, it is a tamiya connector. So, uh, gimme some time to zip back to early 2000s and back: So, this is how it sounds out of the box using a half-charged, 9.6v 1600mAH NiMH battery without adjusting anything: Not bad at all. Definitely sounds better than your average midrange AEG out of the box. Fire rate isn't too shabby. But, a bit sluggish for my taste. The foam-filled silencer does make a noticeable difference in sound. Now, onto the chrono. I used 0.25g Amoeba BBs which was what I had at the time: So, out of the box, definitely too hot. The fps also kept decreasing into the borderline 300s, and I confused as to why until I remembered that this gun has the shitty traditional style hop up. It slowly unwound itself over time. The hop up chamber definitely needs to be tightened. OR, you save yourself the pain and get this for £8: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/zci-prowin-style-hopup-chamber-plastic-m4?search=zci This style of hop up is vastly superior because it is easier to adjust and more importantly, it is similar to a worm-gear style design where it cannot unwind itself. Overall, nothing special which was to be expected with stock performances. The Deep Dive Into the Internals WooOOOoooOoOOooOoo... Time for some spooky voodoo stuff. Disassembly is just like any generic m4. Simply remove this first pin at the front of the receiver: This pin just falls out; there is no pin in the receiver to hold it in place like many other M4 AEGs. Pulling apart reveals the gearbox: And like a regular M4 AEG, the hop up and barrel assembly is housed in the upper receiver. The hop rubber looks like a traditional nub: Nothing special and gets the job done. The barrel is also very clean too. Websites say that it is a polished 6.05mm brass barrel, Comparing to my custom M4 AEGs: ZCI rotary chamber, 229mm ZCI steel barrel, maple leaf macaron and omega nub: If I were to install the custom M4s hop assembly into this gun, the foam sound would be more pronounced as the stock inner barrel does protrude quite far into the silencer: Removing the stock is pretty easy, just like a standard M4: Removing the mag release requires a metric 1.3 hex key: You do not need to remove the MP5 style mag release to disassemble the gearbox. The body pin and rear gearbox pin comes out with a pin and a hammer: Then, the motor grip: Comes out as expected: The motor does not have any markings. I can also turn the pinion very easily which indicates that it is not very torquey. After all those components are removed, the gearbox can be pulled out: Looking inside the lower receiver, seems to be just as high quality: Then, I was pleasantly surprised by something: Quick change spring! This feature is a godsend as it makes the assembly process so much easier. And, as you can see, there is a small unit just below which is the mosfet. Taking it out, however: It's stuck... the spring is attached to the piston which is a bit of a lame move 😕 Nonetheless, the gearbox disassembly is a straight forward process since it is just a standard V2: And revealing its contents: The trigger spring is incredibly stiff, more so than normal. I do enjoy the red colour scheme. The contrast provides some nice eye candy. A close up on the mosfet unit: It stays in place with a single screw and does not wiggle at all. And as you can see, the grease is very stringy on the gears. Not very nice to be honest. Spinning the gears makes it look like I'm weaving silk. The gears are standard 18:1 and of decent quality. I can't comment on durability yet, or ever. Because I will be changing them out to create a high-speed build. This guy preaches about it though: Gearbox has a nice gap here to push the anti-reversal latch if the gearbox ever locks up: Testing the compression: It is excellent. I can't push the piston forward with my finger over the nozzle. Genuinely amazing seal for a stock gun of this price. What the stock AOE looks like: Not great. But, the standard for stock AEGs. Should last a good while like this, assuming everything else is stock. Setup to test the stock shim job of the gears: Testing the sector gear: Has more than 0.5mm of travel. Leaves a bit to be desired. Spur gear: Seems to be about more of less 0.3mm of travel. Not too bad for stock. And for the bevel: Seems to have about 0.1 - 0.2mm of travel which is excellent for stock. Overall impressive. The gearbox is even radiused at the top and bottom: Now for the spring... it is attached to piston and requires a very long screwdriver to get out. Otherwise, you fight the spring tension which isn't nice (excuse blurry photo): Which reveals a disc: This is easily popped out with a bit of force: However, you will need the disc when reassembling the piston. Otherwise, the piston head will be loose. The reassembly is super smooth too: The anti-reversal latch does not pop out like a maniac, unlike most V2 gearboxes. And, with the quick-change spring, I don't even need to hold anything down when putting the other half back on. This makes reassembling incredibly easy and pleasant to work on. This gearbox is super impressive. By far and large, one of the best gearboxes for the price. This is even better than some of the higher up, premium price tag stuff. Quick Comparisons At £160.52 currently, this is roughly around the prices of many Combat Machines and Specna Arms rifles. I cannot comment on Specna Arms as I have not used one before. However, G&G Combat Machines I have. I have also wielded the ARP9 myself which is its direct competition which I will be mainly comparing it to. If we start with combat machines, I recently worked on one of these which are very common rifles: https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/g-g-combat-machine-cm16-raider-2-0 They are decent guns for the price. However, the gearboxes are of lesser quality in comparison: no mosfet, worse shimming, worse compression, worse piston quality, no anti-reversal hole. The barrel quality is also worse. Cannot comment on the gears, but I'd imagine they are similar in quality. The overall construction is tighter on the King Arms compared to the combat machines. King Arms have been known for their tight construction, especially on their higher-end guns. Maybe not all bells and whistles since the construction on their MDT LSS, that I had for a while, was so tight that some parts of the metal had to be cut with a dremel to disassemble the gun... Now, compared to the ARP9, the definitive reasons to get the PDW SBR over the ARP 9 are: Gun itself is cheaper Bigger battery space Mags are significantly cheaper Midcaps hold more rounds (60 vs 120) Less crazy, space-gat looking than the ARP9 Of course, not to say that the ARP9 is a bad gun. It is definitely a gun that is good, popular, and worth the price that it is at. It's just that these features of the PDW SBR (the looks got me tbh) make me prefer it over the ARP9. Verdict Time to list some pros and cons. Pros: Cheap, entry-level price High-quality plastic and metal construction (SD version) High-quality gearbox Quick change spring Lightweight Short Customizable grip Compatible with most conventional V2 parts Super cheap extra midcap mags SD version has a cool foam-filled silencer Polished 6.05mm barrel Cons: The mag that it comes with is flimsy and a loose fit Weak motor Shoots hot out of the box Some small fitment issues Overall, this is a top recommendation. For the price you pay (£160-ish), this thing punches so far above its weight, and it is an incredible base for a high-tier performing gun due to having a standard V2 gearbox and a normal M4 hop chamber. There are only a few rifles I can think of that can compete against the PDW SBR in terms of practicality: one being the ARP9, another being the ARES pistol M4 series. I have yet to get a hold of the ARES gun, so I cannot comment on that. However, I have seen decent DSG builds which utilize the ARES ETU. This is my new main weapon now. Gotta upgrade the shit out of this thing, internally. Externally, gonna keep it mostly stock to minimize the weight. A red dot with a riser at most.

I’ve found them to be the best I’ve used pre lock down always fast and on the ball when it’s a large order

Well, we all are just going to have to wait. I spoke to my local site and they updated my UKARA for me, been a regular there for some length of time. I'm not going airsofting for some time as I want to see how it plays out. I'm hoping that I will be wrong (I am no scientist) but the way it is going with people doing their own thing could bring about a second wave. I express that I am desperate to airsoft, like so many of you are but just be sensible and let this all, pass. Stay safe everyone!

Pre-lockdown next day delivery was bang on and everything was in good order - Super helpful in the phone and pleasant with it. In-lockdown delivery is 5-ish+ days - I ordered a MK23 & a few bits on Wednesday and the delivery “should” be Monday 25th (crossed fingers).

To be fair they are good, well from my experience they have been good... ! But their stock does seem to move fast!

Just bought a Glock 19X (Umarex) from Airsoftarms (Austria)... received it within 1 week (I live in Sweden), all good... they had a very competitive price versus anyone else online.

Vector AEG

If any of it's in stock 🤣🤣🤣🤣

hi thank you so much for the advice

It was 'we misinterpreted the guideslines'. How????? So you idiots can't even read......and then it was everyone elses fault for them being 'toxic'. Jog on...

Translation: we got rumbled and reckon if we make up some bollocks about not having seen the right bit of paper nobody will think we were just being dicks.

That slide release mechanism is the same one that is used on the SIG P226/8/9 series - once you get the knack of it, it's easy enough. You just have to know to line that slightly circled cutout in the slide up with the lever when reassembling.

Things i've purchased over the last few weeks of COVID19 lockdown. Replica CIRAS Woodland plate carrier & mag pouches etc.. Travail 4.5kg training plates Tru-Spec M81 combat top (All the way from America) One-Tigris warbelt + bits & bobs added to it. (I already have a Multicam WARRIOR belt as well) Amazon special Red dot sight (for my Vortex Strike Eagle) **Just gotta cure the mag problem with the ICS (Won't feed bb's from full mags) + BOLT M16A4 with replica ACOG + Bayonet for giggles..

what that tells me is "they done screwed up both guns" tbh my leaning would be more vsr, but that's pretty much entirely down to preferring the form factor. not that i do much sniping anyway (at least not with a bolty)

Would love to but I really don’t have the skills to do so. Saying that, I will be slowly learning how to do bits myself. Nearly 10 years in the sport, better late than pregnant as they say 😂 Appreciate the support and thanks for watching :)

Good video mate, I hit like and sub.

Nice work. You put in a lot of effort with some nice closeup shots. As a suggestion think about opening up the gearbox, do some nice closeup shots and examine the parts etc.

We're doing Covid-19 contingency planning at work. Currently very hard to predict how long the situation will last - literally nobody knows for sure. Estimates range anywhere from 6-18 months (that's not the lockdown period, just how long the pandemic in general may last). Bear in mind that pandemic flu tends to come in three waves or 'peaks'. An initial peak (which we're seeing now), a second much higher/worse peak predicted this winter, and a third peak around the same time next year. This timeframe is all dependent on whether the virus mutates and is able to reinfect people thought to have immunity (as pretty much all flu-like viruses tend to do... unfortunately). Implications for airsoft and UKARA: I imagine we won't be regularly skirmishing for a good while yet 😕

More to the point what site was it that was open? Any registered UKARA site that cares so little for public safety that it was open this weekend deserves to be shut permanently and should be boycotted by the whole responsible airsoft community.

Looks like the Death Star that one....

Further update. The hop rubber was deformed by ASG blaster's 0.25s shit quality control. Nothing wrong with the gun at all. The whole bottle I skirmished with was like this, and I never noticed as they were poured straight into speedloaders.

Thanks for the indepth look. I had a Prowin unit out of my G&G, with a R hopped Prommy barrel. I chopped it down, and fit it. I did get the odd misfeed, but I found after lubing the magazines it works a treat now. Doing that will allow a small drop in FPS, hops .28's like a champ, and will allow better use of the suppressor or a tracer unit. I really like how short it is, and how light and nimble it is. But I really must buy a high torque motor for it. So im debating a SHS high torque or a Nuprol one to keep costs down.

The Law Your sale must be in compliance with Great British law, especially relevant; the VCRA, which has laid down various restrictions on the trade of Imitation Firearms (IF) and Realistic Imitation Firearms (RIF). Remember, the seller is responsible for checking and verifying the legality of a sale. Please see the UK Law section of the forums if you need any guidance on this and open a topic if you're unsure. None of the below is legal advice. In short: As a seller you are liable for who you're selling to. No airsoft gun can be sold to someone under the age of 18 irrespective of whether it's 2-tone or a RIF (i.e. black/realistically coloured) As a seller you must take precautions to satisfy yourself that who you're selling to has a valid defence against prosecution for owning an airsoft gun - for the majority of cases this means the person you're selling to should be an airsoft skirmisher. Some things you can check are: Skirmishing site membership UKARA database membership Photographic proof that a member is a skirmisher (i.e. pictures of them playing) In the interests of protecting the right to play airsoft in the UK, please be diligent when coordinating your sale, ensuring you adhere to the points above. Be responsible and reasonable in your requests for information on another player - do not ask for more information than you require or would be happy to give yourself, but do satisfy yourself that who you're selling to is a legitimate player. Forum Specific Rules (action will be taken against your account for disregarding these) Failure to comply with the rules will result in you receiving a ‘Forum Warning’. Warnings start with the verbal kind and steadily increase in respect of seriousness/repeat offences right through to a ban and deletion of all posts and topics along with your user account. Find out more about ‘Forum Warnings’. All sales / trades must take place between two adults (i.e. over 18 years of age). All sales and swaps must use the sales template. Add additional information to let buyers know your trade preferences or location for collection. This will help sell your gun or gear as listing without pictures rarely sell. All sales must have an asking price. The price must be in UK Sterling £. All sales and swaps topics must have a picture, all pictures must be taken by the seller (adding a piece of paper with your forum name and date helps, but is not a rule). Do not use a retailers pictures - take your own. You must have access to the item that you're selling. You cannot be selling items that you do not own, are not able to post immediately or being sold on the behalf of someone else. You must include a picture of every item that you are selling. It is not acceptable to just show a box or use a stock images. Pictures must be visible in the listing (whilst we do allow links to other forums, simply placing a link instead of a picture is not permitted). Do not list the same item twice simultaneously. I.e. don't 'double list' an item. You cannot have an advert in both Sales and Swaps section for the same item, just select "For sale or swap" for advert type. Once your item(s) is/are definitely sold/you've found the item you're looking for (even if the sale happened elsewhere), please mark the advertisement as 'complete' by visiting the listing and clicking 'Set as Complete'. Second hand airsoft-relevant items only. No selling/swapping of any other items, this includes offering items such as consoles for trade. There are no exceptions to this rule. No sales of knives, real guns, airguns, or any item of any description that readily fires metal munitions, metal munitions themselves, or any other weapon of any type, aside from IFs and RIFs within the legal limits. The following limits are on all sales with no exceptions: <370ft/s for full auto systems with a .20g BB (1.3J is the legal maximum) <520ft/s for semi auto systems .20g BB (2.5J is the legal maximum) <520ft/s for single fire systems .20g BB (2.5J is the legal maximum) You must communicate with your buyer/seller once a transaction is initiated (i.e. ignoring their PMs or topics asking what's going on with a sale/purchase). If you complete a trade/sale of any kind via the forums, please leave feedback for the seller/buyer, this allows us to see who we can trust or who we need to keep an eye on. You may leave feedback by going here. Any suspicions about the item(s) or seller should be sent via PM to a Moderator. Use the "Report this advert" link at the bottom of the listing and include a message (this will flag an issue for Moderators to look at). Transaction Advice (action will not be taken against your account for disregarding these) When buying or trading, we recommend that you take down the following details of the other party: full name, address, telephone number, email, alternate telephone number (work or mobile). It is wise to check the address is legitimate and that the telephone number is answered by the person you are dealing with. We also recommend that you request a photo of the items with a piece of paper next to it with the sellers username and contact details written on. We recommend PayPal for online transactions due to their excellent buyer and seller protection. Bear in mind that methods such as cheque, postal order, bank transfer or other may not be protected and as a result of using them you may not be able to retrieve your losses should anything go wrong. If you are paying for goods via PayPal, please make sure your payment is labelled for goods/services. Sellers may ask you to label your payment as a gift to avoid PayPal fees. However, this will prevent you from being able to access any of the PayPal buyer protection services (i.e. if something goes wrong, your money cannot be refunded). Should sellers ask you to do this, it may be better to offer to pay the fees out of your own pocket instead. Parcelforce 48 will post RIFs if you declare the contents as an airsoft gun. We recommend them as a courier. Disputes Given the nature of trades on these forums, it's impossible for a Moderator to mediate a trade effectively without reading your personal messages (something they cannot do and will never be able to), but if you build up a reputation for being an unscrupulous buyer/seller and are non-communicative you may receive actions against your account. Legal Disclaimer Whilst we do moderate the forums, it is not down to us to verify whether someone is legitimate or not, and whilst we will make every endeavour to ensure all our users are keeping within the law, you use these forums at your own risk and we accept no responsibility for any loss or other damages that should transpire as a direct or indirect result of your continued use of our forums. By participating in our Classifieds section in any way shape or form, you accept that you are doing so at your own risk and hereby indemnify http://www.airsoft-forums.uk (also known as Airsoft Forums UK/AF-UK/AFUK), its moderators, admin and any and all associated parties from any and all responsibility or liability that may transpire due to your continued use of these forums, to the full extent of your right to do so by law. Help If you find any of the above rules unclear or would like to ask us a question please PM a Moderator. We would much rather you contacted us than just went ahead and did something. Thank you. These rules were last updated 11/05/18 Old classifieds rules (for reference - will be deleted end of 2018)