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Sitting Duck

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Sitting Duck last won the day on June 22

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  1. https://www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/ares-airsoft-efcs-001-electronic-fire-control-mosfet-m-series-front-wired-19740-p.asp might need one of these... https://www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/ares-amoeba-electronic-gearbox-programmer-efcs-34645-p.asp but wtf did you do to it ??? did you drop it (down a waste disposal unit) ??? lot of money for a few bells & whistles - I'd consider to go old school with something less bespoke inside/outside basic mosfet or warfet or something
  2. not a big fan of internal mosfets as more stuff to go wrong but that is another story... By the looks of it, the unit uses a reg std trigger trolley like a normal mechanical v switch but with mosfet bollox just below it... So the actual old school switch will have two tabs/contacts to either side of switch/prongs and I assume one tab is soldered to pcb of mosfet & other is where the blue positive supply wire is the unit could be faulty & you are returning it as it came pre-soldered (wise decision) IF you soldered it yourself, then a likely place would be if the the two tabs became bridged coz the switch is effectively closed or shorted across the two contacts (or the board itself is fucked = permanently on) I've seen a people very finely bridge the two contacts with a hairline of solder which with a mosfet would maintain the short as such low current across the contacts and gun fired the moment the battery was connected under a normal non-mosfet build this ultra fine hairline short could likely blow like a fuse but under a mosfet build the short would be maintained The bridge was so friggin' fine you had to really view it close up zoomed in, but yup it was bridged by just a tiny hairline solder trail - weird crap indeed but yeah it came presoldered so sod it - return it as you are doing coz unit could be fucked like I said
  3. Mod 0 is front wired, your pic is a rear wired gun The unit is faulty or the blue positive supply wire to unit is shorting causing it fire did you buy the internal unit pre-wired or did you solder it yourself if you soldered it yourself - check for any shorts on blue wire at unit something is up causing the unit to be permanently switched on & full auto - even in safe mode so examine the blue wire being soldered without any short/bridging with other components etc...
  4. It is a tiny bit stiffer than regular wire but is due to thin but very robust nyrol/mPPE insulation which means you get 3mm silicone wire in 2.1mm thick wire (though to be honest some 16awg might have up to 30x.25 strands (specs do vary) & Alpha is 26 x 0.25mm strands, so a whisker less than some high spec 16awg wire, but 16awg varies but c'mon, if space is tight like in V2 channels, you get the spec without the grind(ing of channel etc...) A word of advice - 14awg Alpha is fucking stiff, much stiffer than the 16awg & I'd only ever consider it on ultra thirsty builds like a really really insane DSG for example - so go for 16awg imho (the 14awg is a c*nt to work with if you need wire to bend in say a v2 pistol grip, but 16awg is perfect) an idea of how it compares - 18awg example...
  5. Pete - minor suggestion you might wish to consider.... sell Alpha eco wire 6716 16awg by the metre perhaps ??? stiff resilient wire with big csa for max transfer of power stiff wall - don't try 14awg - that is stiff as fuck, but 16awg is do-able run the alpha from motor/box to say rear mosfet in buffer tube then use bendy silicone stuff to run mosfet to Lipo (if you want best of both worlds solution, or just use Alpha with little/no breaks/joins) watch out silicone tears easy on casings of gearbox and stuff and should be sleeved to protect the silicone splitting but Alpha is highly rated on places like Airsoft Society (US forum)
  6. About 1 week after the warranty expires... (normally how my luck rolls) I don't feckin know, how long is a piece of string ??? If we are running a book, 2 years 4 months, 12 days, 8 hours, 39 minutes & 16.5 seconds
  7. Linkage issue, likely one tooth out or wear On a reg V3 there is the tab that locks the trigger solid The iffy semi/auto is a common problem on AK's Where linkage is worn or not quite correctly located (It "could" be one tooth out on rear linkage Or something is binding when box is refitted into receiver impeding its operation) Investigate further, likely something stupid out of whack on reassembly
  8. It is NOT a shit gun - nuff said You will get lemons on all stuff in life There have been some lemons but nowhere as bad as others You could have bought perhaps a slightly better gun perhaps (But these are opinions like arseholes etc...) BUT you could have bought a LOT WORSE at higher price even So made a reasonably safe choice imho
  9. shimming is a pita that you get better at the more you do it (hopefully) there's loads of tutorials how to do it & some good/bad a bit loose is better than bit tight yes you kinda start with bevel to pinion but also attention to how the sector is shimmed (roughly half/half spaced but attention it operates but no rubbing on COL or too high sector cam rubs on box casing) plus attention to how the spur shims to both sector (swirl pattern if too close) and attention to ensure plenty of bevel's 10 teeth mesh to spur etc... (if bevel shimmed high & spur really low, little of 10 teeth mesh and stuff flies off or crunches under stress or mild lock up so shimming is all about the spacing of gears/drivechain and how all the components engage as close to perfection as possible (not always very easy to achieve) IF you was on bushings I'd say a ROUGH BALL PARK... Bevel - 0.2mm shim on top, no biggy about underneath really not a massive biggy on JUST this gear underneath coz motor pinion ensures it ain't going far (if you got a small shim left at end then take up some of slack if you wish to) Spur/Step gear 0.2mm UNDERNEATH (whatever is required on top to take up most of slack) Sector gear 0.25mm to 0.3mm roughly so it sits a whisker higher than spur (hopefully avoiding swirls from gears touching in rotation) whatever on top to take up slack, should sit about half way spaced in box for sector gear as you got bearings it is likely you might have a bit more lateral play than on bushings so add 0.05 to 0.10mm to these ref points THE ABOVE IS ONLY A VERY ROUGH STARTING POINT, you have to adjust shit accordingly as each box & gears/build vary loads check motor height with bevel in top half of box on v3's a bit of shrill can be reduced by loosening the motor cage and slightly shifting it, tilting the motor angle slightly to mesh smoother nozzle not returning - uhmm it doesn't always return 100% anyway in most instances the nozzle begins to retract before the piston starts to retract & often the gun's cycle is slowed/stopped by piston retraction or rather the tension on spring building and slowing the motor which means theif nozzle often is at least partial retracted or even starting to release if running quick (and on guns with plenty pre-cock the nozzle has returned already in preparation of firing/piston releasing) so this nozzle fretting is not a big issue in "most" new tech concerns obviously if it isn't operating or jamming then that is another issue but nozzle position is not (usually) a big concern select linkage and stuff - yeah they are a bit of wank safety is that triangle tab on gearbox that jams the 2 part trigger the linkage is a git to get correct if the rear teeth are not aligned correctly (and stay in place as you try to drop the whole thing back in receiver) also clean & lightly grease and parts of selector/linkage checking they glide as smooth as silk if any burrs, smooth them out and ensure it all glides/operates smooth as silk stiff operation on selector mechanism shit will just mean more wear in linkage/selector components sooner massive tip - take photo's on your phone - LOTS OF PHOTO's then you will see how shit goes back together in particular if a certain spring or component goes face down or face up eg: a trigger trolley spring (you don't have one on etu) on reg setup v2 especially can make a difference which way round the body of spring is placed or its orientation (in the way the spring sits to clear the groove in the underside of tappet plate etc...) on selector mechanism at rear - mark it with a pencil to ensure the marks re-align on assembly or other shit like that - just a couple of examples you takea pic or three will greatly assist in reassembly
  10. I've played COD Barebones if that counts or join the reserves (get paid to play the odd peew peew exercise) or play milsim or chair-soft atm
  11. Don't know if you tried this but wonder if it is the reset to default option or if it is a "Whoa fuck me - what ya doing bro" warning... But the Perun ETU plays Michael Jackson - Smooth Criminal (Eddie are you OK) if you fuck about with it... WTF ???
  12. Component Shop says: 105 x 22 x 12mm weight 98g it is the 22mm width that "might" be an issue (if crane stock tubes are a bit tight) you normally have say 120mm up to 130mm length, so say up to 125mm the ye olde nimah's were about 18mm round in diameter, with a wire running down side so was about 19mm diameter https://www.componentshop.co.uk/9-6v-1600mah-2-3a-nimh-mini-cranestock-battery-4-4.html now the above is a classic 2 x 4 1.2v cell making a 9.6v Nimah type battery designed for crane stocks and as said 19~20mm should be OK but be careful some cranes won't take much more (Think some like G&G Combat machine crane stocks are 20mm max with circular tubes others have a bit more room and some like Cyma cheapo guns have room for 22mm diameter cells A Wrigleys Extra pack of gum is 22m wide and just fits in Cyma crane tubes, but others it won't) So be careful ordering batteries that might be tight squeeze in some stocks Often it is wiser to ensure the dimensions are a little under to allow for minor variations/tiny swelling & leads etc... Even this might be pushing it as it seems to be 21mm wide: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-2000mah-2s-15-30c-lipo-airsoft-pack-t-connector.html?queryID=e09326cb63ce6a5a2b1e2a3cf08c3d27&objectID=47513&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products 2 of these maybe might be a slightly safer option, but 20mm: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-1200mah-2s-15-25c-lipo-airsoft-pack-1.html?queryID=e09326cb63ce6a5a2b1e2a3cf08c3d27&objectID=31042&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products or maybe 2 of these: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-1200mah-2s-25-50c-lipo-airsoft-pack-t-connector.html?queryID=e09326cb63ce6a5a2b1e2a3cf08c3d27&objectID=47516&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products 116mm x 17mm x 13mm easily fit in, could shove both in the tubes (1 in each) so you go out but option to switch over if you feel it getting low or the option to wire them in parallel to make a 2400 7.4v Lipo (don't connect in series or you make a 14.8v battery) The battery you were looking at "might" fit OK, but just saying be careful as some crane stocks are bigger/smaller so the larger size/capacity battery packs could be a squeeze if you make an unwise purchase you "might" be better of playing safe with 1 or 2 slightly smaller cells, then if you got room you can buy one you know will fit (once you have the gun and be fairly certain how much room you to play with) Even with all this knowledge/wisdom I've still fucked up buying some batteries I knew would fit only to find out later - nahhhh, those dimensions in the specs are not quite 101% accurate (better to blame specs in description than admit I myself fucked up buying a battery too big coz I thought I knew best)
  13. SE-08, buy a 7.4v that fits see what the performance is like B6 - pref not a clone but before I get flamed a clone B6 would still be better than a Nuprol B3 mains charger I got one of those B3 mains types, made a fucking loud buzz so went in the bin Got another B3 and was a really fussy bitch getting it to charge (kept coming with one light being red/fault , until I turned in on/off and eventually worked - finally) Then there are cheapo B3's req a sep psu, often an old 12v 1a modem/router psu will suffice (B3's charge just through balance lead so are slower to charge than the superior B6) So a B3 is a bit lame but do at a push - however not all B3's do LiFe batteries LiFe's are a lower cell at 3.3v than 3.7v & if you charge LiFe batteries on the higher LiPo setting it will damage it So a B6 is simply better all round, a good/genuine B6 is recommended and the use a decent laptop psu option something between 15v to 18v with a 2.5a~3.0a output with correct plug AND POLARITY !!! if in doubt buy a B6 psu, but if you know what you are doing you can use other psu's to hand if spec is correct Test rps on 7.4v then multiply by 1.55 to get an expected rps on similar 11.1v type battery - if it fits Aim for about 20rps or a smidge under/over but at about 22rps+ std UK guns may double fire/overspin going nuts at 25+ you mat PME risking stripping stuff without a bit of work etc... so twenties is plenty you could stay on 7.4v and change motor at some point to add a bit of zest (but really see how you go and should get near 15 rps on deans & decent 7.4v 25c I reckon) Some say LiFe 9.9v is much better than 7.4v as a good stop gap between 7.4v & 11.1v LiPo performance but me personally I didn't notice it THAT MUCH over a decent 7.4v in a tweaked gun might be ok if gun is stock, but think LiFe batteries cost more, limited range/options and when called upon in a snappy build the LiFe does not quite offer the raw grunt that a 30c 7.4v can supply might be OK on stock gun, the 9.9v adds a bit more juice but real raw grunt when needed, then LiFe begins to lack the large amount of zest from a 30c LiPo say (this is just my opinion as I said, others may disagree, but what I personally found when using a couple of 'em) that is my take on it all, G&G is nice but sod ETU SA Orion/Onion boxes have has some lemons but the mosfet is going to be more reliable and easy to change/upgrade best of luck Make sure it fits, some crane stocks only have 2 tubes not much over 18 diameter though usually about 20mm diameter, sometimes 22mm space is available but watch out for tight fitting crane stocks & fat nunchuck batteries pay close attention to battery dimensions when ordering don't go too mad, allow for wires - inc balance lead and a TINY bit of swelling from long term use said tiny and I mean a tiny tiny bit of puffing that can occur after a while of use long term very puffy LiPo's should be replaced safely, well up to you but be careful playing silly sods with LiPo's I keep posting this, there are loads - but seriously show some respect & safety when using/charging batteries back to battery, check dimensions, if unsure get a slightly smaller one and buy a pair swap over at lunchtime - job done
  14. TBH you got an option to replace the ETU mosfet unit G&G £36 aprox if you can find one or perun £50 inc ship from bravo/bullseye country sport in NI (good seller) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perun-Airsoft-Upgrade-Mosfet-Kit-For-G-G-ETU-System-AB-LiPo-Ready-Burst-bbs/133377231128?hash=item1f0de70918:g:vv0AAOSwhQhehetA OR contact Luke/Negative Airsoft perhaps You could buy a V3 box, hopefully an AK with AK nozzle, trigger, selector and hope it fits OK some v3's don't always simply slide into all other guns as is, at times a bit of modding required (some will gladly take a std Cyma v3 & others will take a JG one but might need modding or vice versa) those are two very common/cheap v3's out there, but there "might" be some minor fitting niggles to overcome hence if you got a sound box that is compatible - stick with that and have it rebuilt (Luke or some other respected tech) They can overhaul it and no doubt if old it is need of service and doubt if compression/seals are that great Chuck in a basic mosfet, maybe the tiny perun https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perun-Micro-Airsoft-Mosfet/164224757298?epid=25036277200&hash=item263c8eee32:g:zngAAOSwP7ZdHKsv So you can run on 11.1v, new col, trigger switch & some other bits n bobs give it the once over and getting firing all dandy yes labour & shipping issue, but atm you got a £300 when new gun that is wanked so spending a bit of money WISELY is not such a bad thing you can go nutz or Luke will advise you on the best cost effective course of action according to your budget Or you can attempt to have a go yourself if you feel up to it, but will require some rewiring/soldering or clean it up, slap some grease in there & buy the perun etu those are the 3 options I would consider (than buy a box that shoots too hot on an imported cyma v3 box & hope it fits first time)
  15. Pity G&G don't use them instead of Dairy Lea ETU units, especially on their higher price guns nice to know it works well, but wish they was cheaper, even £50 inc shipping is a bit much I'm being a bit miffed, but mainly coz the G&G unit is so shit (some people have been lucky and works fine still even on 7.4v, but there are a lot of issues with ETU's) Paying a bit above other similar guns, to then have to be faced with replacing something that is so defective spending around £50 or so, or at least a tenner converting it back to basic trigger plus time/cost is a wank G&G - lovely looking guns, but jeez some of their ideas & innovations have made matters worse not more reliable G&G R&D dept: ETU design & testing... The most annoying thing is that you can't just plug a basic mosfet in due to the 4 thin wire lead, one is power, then a signal to each of 3 switches (power, trigger, col switch & slector switch at back of trigger unit) so the fucking thing is only for the ETU & can't drop a basic mosfet or warfet or owt in there so you are faced with another Dairy Lea G&G ETU mosfet, luckily the Perun option but still not cheap or rip the whole lot out and start again old school real PITA these fancy bespoke units - especially with G&G's reliability (ultra sarcasm)
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