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Sitting Duck

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Sitting Duck last won the day on September 10 2018

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About Sitting Duck

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  1. Ahhhh Youtube - which isn't THAT bad if you watch respected chaps (remember opinions are like arseholes - everybody has one etc...) the real risk is watching really old clips where stuff is really out of date Or taking say the US techs as gospel - ergh they got 400fps + limits so their PME won't kick in until say 30rps due to faster return of m120 spring where as UK 350fps means 25rps is about your limit - so you can't take everything you see as 101% gospel or old methods/tweaks of yester-year and the fanboys now matured into the not so fan-men (hopefully) (go on I'll admit to buying madbull/prowin/modify/ultimate and any other go faster add-on's that this tech raved about) I admit the stuff I do today is a bit different to how I did stuff 5 or 6 years ago when i starting teching ergh breaking guns so as said it is a constant learning curve that we are all still learning as we go, learning from each build almost I wouldn't worry too much, my normal War & Peace essay bollox Just pointing out in my own very "concise" way there are numerous ways to achieve similar results eg: 7.4v on zesty 30k motor or 11.1v on more torquey 22tpa motor - it's 350fps so either will do as long you don't go mental on 45k if you can help it if planning a rebuild is my own personal choice (but to each their own as stated many many times)
  2. Vapex are a trusted name in airsoft batteries Airsoft batteries are funny batch of juice boxes, often so called "airsoft" Lipo's do not match up to the same RC LiPo's of same spec If you read reviews on HobbyKing, they have said the Turnigy "Nano-Tech" LiPo's designed for airsoft fall short of a block Turnigy of same rating Be it less than expected performance - a 25c not having the same oomph as similar 25c or the 2000mah Nano-Tech not lasting no way as long as a 2000mah block Lipo Now Airsoft guns vary loads and crane stocks you often need ergh crane Lipo's like Nano-Tech & Vapex offer The option for cranes is to wire in smaller block LiPo's in PARALLEL to create the SAME VOLTAGE but DOUBLE the capacity/mah Don't do series or those 2 x 7.4v's will make a 14.8v and that would be REALLY taking the piss Of course you don't have to wire two LiPo's in series in a crane stock You could fit 2 x 1300 Lipo's, one in each tube and just go with one 1300 connected at a time if you get caught short in battle then you switch over as soon as possible without going back to safe zone (and both batteries don't have to same make/type/spec if only using one at a time if pairing up LiPo's in parallel then they should be same types etc....) On other guns like a G36 or an AK with a fixed stock you chuck in block type batteries which are MUCH cheaper than the "airsoft" crane lipo's of run a fixed stock - a fixed stubby stock on titchy M4's and chuck any bloody battery shape in there As yours is a titchy FireHawk type M4 these stubby stocks really work great with the gun tucked in tight to you for CQB I found Or classic M4 a full size fixed stock option, though you lose the fine tuning of comfort to your own bespoke play style on full size fixed stocks As always there is often a trade off in what stock and if wired front/back for weight balance or if to use a peq box etc.... Buying "airsoft" batteries will always be more expensive than block type Also there are the 9.9v LiFe batteries that offer a stop gap or bridge between the 7.4v & 11.1v Me personally I found them not to offer any really extra zest over a decent 25c or 30c 7.4v in a tweaked gun But others say LiFe's are awesome - though my gut feel is that they might be OK in a stock/moderate tweaked gun but in a gun that is tweaked a bit more the LiFe's that I tried really didn't seem to offer the boost I was expecting so therefore though a potential stop gap between the two LiPo's I personally they don't have the real brute grunt of a LiPo in a 13:1 SS build (I could have duff Turnigy LiFe's but when I tried them I just didn't feel it) The cheapo 11.1v is what I'd buy to chuck in a cheapo Cyma 28a keeping most of it stock end up getting towards near 20rps for next to fuck all, don't think it would fit in a G36c so would have to measure and weigh up a smaller 11.1v for std build or look at 7.4v 13:1 etc..... to get near 20rps maybe on better motor Actually getting ultra involved, a JG is a 22tpa so rip that motor out of a G36c replace it with a 25~30k neodym in G36, then drop the JG 22tpa in 28a AK & run on 11.v (cheap Cyma motors are slow 28tpa so the JG 22tpa would offer a welcome bit of zest for a budget tweak) ahem..... just saying various options of shifting stuff and matching up bits as stuff is a bit thin on ground atm Airsoft batteries will cost more - even from HobbyKing and a bit more from "Airsoft" shops - they gotta apply their mark up Places like HobbyKing you are going to one of the largest retailers of batteries for all hobbies and so you will save money though you need to know and measure your potential battery space, checking very closely what you are buying plus drop the dimensions a bit to be on safe side AND allow a bit more for both power & balance leads when you try to fit it in ya gun Hence fixed stubby or guns that take a block type battery is perhaps easier to measure and choose something that will give good performance and capacity - but I've still screwed up buying a battery that didn't fit as expected in the past (oooops) Also many HobbyKing LiPo's will come with XT60 over deans or small tamiya so really this battery malarky is for people who know or not afraid to cut (one wire at a time ffs) &fit their own deans Component Shop will offer you the service of Small Tamiya/Deans/XT60 on most of their batteries all as part of their service, though no such thing as a free lunch or deans For your battery £23 on deans plus £4:99 APC delivery = £27:99 on ebay seems like £28:65 so not cheaper this time around... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/11-1V-800-2600mAh-Airsoft-LiPO-Battery-All-Sizes-Custom-Connector-/121637306533?var=&hash=item6297d00f3b Component shop is very very respected on here, great customer service and ship stuff with low cost shipping, even on small orders Also check out them on ebay, like many sellers, at times their ebay listings with free shipping included can end up being a tiny bit cheaper Many sellers don't update or calculate complete costings when they apply increases or something well it don't hurt to look, not always the case but at times sellers ebay listings can work out cheaper It is all crap you learn through experience or rather as your toy gun collection grows and your wallet dwindles
  3. Yeah, I got like that with loads of things like consoles, peew peew's etc... doesn't hurt to have a spare "just in case...." Now I finally admit I have a problem.... I have no more fucking room to hide them from Mrs Duck agreed - your money - your gun/motor & all that Me personally I'd use a 22k/22tpa mainly for higher stress build say a DMR or DSG perhaps on 11.1v For reg AEG I tend to go with 7.4v on a balanced 30k/16tpa Others might use a Higher Speed 40k+ on std gears to achieve the snap, but that can draw more amps (though if you don't spam loads a higher speed motor is OK, just going nutz will create more heat) It is all down to personal preference, budget & your circumstances Admit I was using faster motors at first, but found they (the motor) or they gun didn't last too long Now I tend to stick on a 25k to 30k, but no faster for me on 7.4v I stick on 7.4v coz it is generally cheaper and space saving over a 11.1v (not always true, HobbyKing do some deals at times where a 25c 11.1v block LiPo is cheaper than similar 7.4v) https://hobbyking.com/en_us/rhino-2200mah-3s-25c-lipo-pack-w-xt60.html?queryID=7bd535558be7b9d8aedbbec64c6dc4eb&objectID=83948&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products
  4. I have asked somebody to give them the once over to see if they are about right Unfortunately she is self isolating with Corona 25 as she is high risk & has type 3.5 diabetes....
  5. TBH - just try a decent 7.4v.... 22,000 x 1.55 = 34,100 your present motor is a 35k supposedly on 8.4v (7.4v fully charged, each 3.7 cell can hold up to 0.5 extra volts = 4.2v) so a 7.4v = 8.4v fully charged or a 11.1v = 12.6v the 1.55 or 55% value for 2 cell > 3 cell calculation so speed rps will be running nigh on the same YES the AMPS from the 22k will be lower but due to Voltage the Watts will vary.... eg: 35k draws say 19 amps on 7.4v so a full Lipo = 19 x 8.4v = 159.6 Watts or say 160 Watts now 22k on same 13:1 say 12.5 amps (guessing tbh), 12.5 x 12.6 = 157.5 Watts - not a lot of difference eh ??? I based this guess on similar builds & @Davegolf 10.4a on a m135 though I feel you must have a m110 at least & your gear ratio of 13(13.5) over a 18(18.65) is about 1.38 So basing on a smidge lower of 10a x 1.38 = 1.38 possible reading, maybe round it down a bit (I've had a really low 25k ferrite 13:1 SS 3 teeth build draw 11.75 @ 335fps) So did a kinda guess in the middle of a neodym 22k being around 12.5-ish could be 12amps, doubt if it would be 13amps but your shimming might be a whisper smidge out so 12.5a is my figure 12.5a x 12.6v is not far off the Wattage of say a 19a x 8.4v - though this could be 20a x 8.4v = 168 Watts but not THAT much difference Don't matter, but might save you £40 Just saying you might be OK just on 7.4v and perhaps a higher capacity as you should gain some space on a 2 cell than a 3 cell LiPo FFS, this Corona Isolation bollox better end soon if the highlight of my day is doing mathematical airsoft predictions My calculations could be completely way way off the mark and is intended to only be guide, it does not reflect the true actual readings you may or may not get as each gun is individually different plus.... Your gun is at risk if you do not keep up servicing or other loans secured upon on it charges & indemnities may apply & you should always seek professional advice any advice given is regulated by the amount of alcohol I have consumed Sitting Duck is not affiliated with any other species of water foul or any other poultry or KFC Full T&C's available on request - if I can be arsed depending how long this corona or thread goes on for
  6. "Normally" a M100 is 328fps now when that if fitted to a 455mm AK you will get more & when fitted to a MP5k you get a bit less due to creep/loss Also a bearing spring guide adds about 15fps due to a little more spring compression from bearings over a std plain guide (though you loose a bit of power, volume to be exact when correct AoE so a bearing spring guide usually offsets this) Cheapo China guns come with a massive heavy alloy spacer inside usually 8~9mm as the piston's teeth is 3mm pitch that is effectively 3 more teeth of compression than no spacer & a bearing inside piston or on piston head is about 4.5mm or another 1.5 teeth compression than bare piston So with all those variables it is easy to see why a genuine M100 spring can give 300~350fps in another gun and that is without great/piss poor seals or mis-labelled springs etc.... Hence people tend to stick to a particular spring make than risk playing the typical Chinese lottery on too many parts Or, if knowing the gun shoots a smidge hot, then remove spacer(s) or Short Stroke option maybe (or vice versa, add a small spacer to bump the fps up a bit, as long as it doesn't hit the spring guide on full retraction) TBH - it don't matter what spring is in there, if you got good seals & fps is about right that is all that matters I was just saying it sounds a bit strong for a genuine m95, that's all So many many ways to skin a cat and loads of variables on these poxy toy guns @Davegolf has one of them fancy hook test meters - niiiiicccceeeeeee I got one of them RC testers as my test meter is ergh just a cheap test meter is my actual one, but anything will do... a bit cheaper, run on full auto for say 5 secs and check the amps/draw a really efficient build and good shimming draws less amps which means less heat and longer battery Motors normally draw up to 80amp on initial start up for a few nanoseconds, but soon settle down to say 15 or so (depends on gearing & motor) 30k is about my limit to run on 7.4v & 13:1 SS 2 or 3 teeth etc... is a very good snappy base build you can often chuck a mosfet in maybe and run a lame 13rps gun to 20rps on 11.1v if on a tight budget But always worth checking the amps to see just how efficiently you built it & it's running etc... Some fancy bastids like Titan will give you this info on screen, but a meter tells you on any gun (plus it "can" help you find the sweet spot for motor height - in conjuction with sound it all makes) ((depending on how well you set bevel/motor height in the first place of course)) PS - we only know some of this knowledge or slight wisdom coz we've all made numerous (and plenty) of balls ups, learning from our mistakes (wisdom) Plus we are all still learning, I know I am, doing stuff slightly different to things I was doing a year or two ago always trying to squeeze maximum performance & efficiency from each subsequent build etc... I'd say you did a reasonable job compared to my first few attempts that were complete disasters (the first three were fucked completely and the next few were far from good let alone great rebuilds)
  7. M95 producing 340 means great compression & bearing/spacer inside piston plus bearing spring guide or likely a slightly stronger than labelled spring as the E10 is a titchy barrel Seems to be like a FireHawk 140mm or something, no more than 200mm so doubt if spring really was a m95 or 313fps rated spring in a titchy barrel Probably @ 28rps you are starting to get PME where the piston & sector are starting to catch on a full stroke which might explain qwirky results where the stroke/volume is being screwed up producing weird shots/results - pretty lucky you haven't ripped the rack out - keep firing on full auto & something will go I'm sure @25rps you will be getting overspin & potential double firing without Active Braking and this really is the gun talking to you & 25rps is about the limit you can push a full stroke UK 350fps gun sure AB will prevent/reduce the overspin & double firing on semi... BUT on 3 round burst or 5 round burst those 4 shots will be cycling close to the limit all the same As others have said you need a stronger spring that will give you say 380~395 or a true m115~m120 then take off the first two or three teeth off pickup side of sector gear, the FIRST 2 or 3 teeth that engage piston IF your last/release tooth on sector gear is same size you can leave the teeth on piston rack it is if your last/release tooth is larger then you MUST take off the matching amount on rack though most remove the teeth on rack just to be safe, though if the last tooth is same it clear & release OK If experimenting taking off two, then three or you take too many off sector, you can just use another sector & not need a new piston/rack As you are using a 13:1, then you need a 13:1 sector But if you was using a 16:1 set, then very likely a reg 18:1 sector from a std set should work as ratio is down to the step/spur gear Anyway - you are cycling too fast on a full stroke Either set ROF on fancy mosfet to say 75% or Look to Short Stroke a couple of teeth with a slightly stronger spring or run it on 7.4v on a 40c Lipo to give you say 25rps aprox VERY VERY VERY ROUGH RPS CALCULATOR.... MOTOR SPEED (in 1000's or K), divided by ACTUAL gear ratio, then multiply by 10 will give a ROUGH RPS on 7.4v 25c EG: 35 (35,000) divided by 13.5 (probable actual ratio) = 25.6 rps for 11.1v's multiply the 7.4v figure by 1.55 or 55% increase, it isn't really 50% coz gun is cycling so extra cell is a bit more boost than 50% 25.6rps x 1.55 = 40rps expected rps on 11.1v - especially a 30c one BUT I'm only getting 34rps ??? Well it is only a ROUGH guide and the variation could be your shimming/motor angle and also some loss due to fancy mosfet (Don't care what manufacturers say, some response is lost in those electronics over bare bone thick wire on a 3034 with no breaks/fuse etc...) The ROUGH guide does work in most cases give or take a couple of rps on a UK spec gun higher 400+ or DMR stuff will have a slightly lower rof with heavier spring blah blah blah on a 30k motor: 30/13.5 = 22.2rps which many use on 7.4v So as said, you should have chosen a 22k or 25k absolute max if running on 11.1v 25/13.5 = 18.5rps then on 11.1v or x1.55 = 28.7rps or there abouts ffs (stock setups on weak 18k & 18.65 will give you 9.65rps so add a bit on as it is an easy pull ratio to make 12rps) I said it was a ROUGH calculator, easy on the motor gearing figures need a bit more added on or insane DSG's you gotta take some off even shimming was perfect on ceramics etc.... But it does kinda give you a rough idea in a large ballpark so to speak bearings/bushings actual motor performance (and they can/do vary on same motor/batches) plus ultra thick wiring, if using lame 20c or beefy 30c+ LiPo's (some LiPo's are not same as other makes) (Oh and don't bother expecting this to work on a stock supplied 8.4v NiMah on small Tamiya, this rough calculator is for LiPo's on deans blah blah blah, what people should be using in their tweaked setups blah blah blah) Boring anorak post nearly over..... Yeah you are pushing it and that is why you are getting grief Twenties is plenty on a SSG & if you get 22~24rps, then you hardly notice it not hitting 30rps & you can set pre-cocking for a bit better response & not need hardly any AB
  8. According to the spec of 621... Barrel is a 327mm (nice "floater" length) x 6.03 which qualifies as a tbb (so to speak) Even Cyma cheapo std barrels are not that bad, with a nice crown so not a hacked up bit of pipe (like some really shite cheapo plinkers have in them) So the barrel shouldn't be that bad, nowt a bit of cleaning with rod will sort out with soft dry tissue Most of the shot performance will down to bucking and decent BB's, which you should use if barrel is 6.03 Hence a Maple Macron yellow 60 & nub should improve things if needed The hop - well hops can throw more stuff into the mix, When changing bucking you can get lips pinched or protruding causing feed issues & changing hops units can also throw up issues eg: ProWin often causes more grief than success Personally I'd give it a clean up on the barrel and spend some time with decent 0.25's or maybe 0.28 bb's by say G&G (honestly, cheapo BB's might feed ok(ish) in wider std barrels but on tighter bores, the slightest bit of egg shape or seam on a BB can give issues just feeding & clearing the barrel properly - forget if it goes straight or astray, cheap poor BB's really should not be used in tighter barrels The amount of people that try this mofo barrel, hop, bucking setup say £60+ but still use shit BB's and wonder why results are not so great) If you decide to play with shit, then get a half decent ZCI, SHS cheapy plastic or bit more expensive alloy rotary M4 hop Maple blah blah blah, then build it as one unit leaving your std Cyma barrel/hop alone.... Chances are you may run into some issues getting the new barrel/hop combo sorted or possibly tear bucking during the install - or whatever reason things don't go to plan.... If you run into issues on new combo, you still have the old barrel/hop combo to get you out playing, until you sort the other combo out But for the moment, I'd see how it performs and tbh no two guns shoot the same out of the box I've had one gun shoot quite good & a second one exact same model shoot shit a torn bucking, installed a bit pissed or even had one instance where there was no nub - wtf ??? The really crap hop units I was referring to was clear plastic M4 hops, not so much the plastic but the quality of the unit Most times the tension wouldn't hold the pressure/setting on nub/bucking and would loosen and lose its hop I dialed in Normally you can add a washer/shim to add resistance and hold the setting, however the cheapo hard brittle clear plastic seemed to have almost stripped threads that would not allow me to tighten up even with washer/shim etc... Plus there was friggin' grease all inside it - yeah on guns that had them clear traditional M4 hops, those cheapo clear hops were crap, found on very very cheap or poorly planned guns on a serious cost cutting mission - virtually useless Cyma don't use these clear hops, but better quality black hops as the basic hop unit, not brilliant but certainly not shit like some clear stock hops I've had in some guns in the past Some people might have found them OK, but when I've come across cheap guns with clear hops they have been pretty shit and really needed replacing.... Cyma's aren't that bad, so I'd see how you go before you go nutz buying too many "upgrades", that if they don't work too well or fitted slightly incorrectly, they effectively become DOWNGRADES instead
  9. Not bad guess on the 515, said 515 or 518 as they are the popular cheapo's (the 517 is a nice cheap Raider for those on really tight budget) From TWG - probably CM621 but has a bespoke Mosfet- ol' Jefftron type with whistles Still basically a tarted up CM515, lots of plastic like the plastic sights and some fake ambi select stuff So not a Specna Arms beater at all - but cheap-ish Still £50 more than your 515, QC spring & mosfet, plus has the not so reinforced box so 13:1's can drop in but still bespoke tappet plate like v2 Cyma's use - no real biggy The mosfet, if/when it fails you will have a job getting replacement I reckon, but then again G&G ETU's aren't perfect either (often people rip faulty ones out & start again) As said - not a Specna Arms beater from Gunfire, but GF charge more for postage AND friggin' paypal surcharge crap Personally.... I'd probably keep the 515 for field stuff and grab a cheapy titchy M4 for CQB a metal FireHawk with stubby stock - friggin' made for CQB... https://gunfire.com/en/products/ay-a0026-carbine-replica-black-1152225576.html Now both might need some work, not the best hop units in either, plus almost certainly not QC spring (plus GF shaft you more for shipping & paypal charges) But if the AY is like certain ACM or Asia Guns guns, it will have a crappy hop & the black might come off But that would make a nice CQB M4 base gun all the same, I keep eyeing one up myself Or a SA mofo but be more money for a plastic/polymer CORE or more still for a metal EDGE M4 say Thing is you ask these questions and you'll get numerous answers The 621 is a cheap option with QC you seek, but really a tarted up 515 The £50 extra or so would be halfway to buying the stubby M4, so being more techy minded I'd lean that way Others will say just buy a decent Specna Arms - so you already have 3 different answers depending on budget/tech ability So there is no real perfect answer, though the 621 is perhaps a reasonable answer to your question https://www.taiwangun.com/en/electric/cm-621-mosfet-edition-black-cyma?from=listing&campaign-id=19 but as said it is just a QC tarted up 515, well not quite as long, about 330mm barrel compared to say 400 but can change spring in situ, early SA guns had a QC box but still had to remove grip/motor/box to change spring So can as you requested, easily change spring over quickly if needed no problem
  10. Might help if you list actual model... as Cyma V2's are a tiny bit bespoke Spring guide is a V3 not a V2 Trigger switch, requires the copper plate on selector plate to make contact with prongs at back of switch (pretty sure this is quite common on Cyma V2's), not something to worry about unless you break selector (or mod/use another selector plate to lock to semi only), if using a mosfet then flatten & bridge prongs) a v3 box but shows the mod if gun plays up firing due to contacts not touching copper plate... or another way, though thinly soldered is for say a mosfet, use thicker join to bridge if no mosfet how it usually is and the plate prong issue that can "sometimes" occur on "some" switch/selectors Then remove material to prevent Cut Off Lever rising to allow full auto... Now the gun is locked to semi only on DMR's with selector mod The prongs was just being pointed if you use a spare selector plate without copper plate (or ran into issues that it doesn't fire 101% of time due to poor contact of copper plate/prongs) There is a couple of other mods or replace switch, but flatten contacts & bridge is very quick if using mosfet These days the "prong" switches have started to be used less & less, but some people still fit them and they often work OK, but can cause issues if they fail to make perfect contact in both semi & auto now & then in say semi, plate halfway across its travel there "might" be issues with sporadic firing, but fine in auto Cyma V2 tappet plate is also a little bespoke or deviates from most regular aftermarket ones like SHS The Cyma tappet has cut-outs upfront where the front is reinforced slightly on the inside... compared to SHS V2 tappet... but can be modded... Reason why tappet is mentioned coz the SHS Red nozzle sits very loosely on clear Cyma tappet But black SHS plastic nozzle with slot sits better on Cyma tappet... So you have some options regarding the few minor qwirks on Cyma V2's Box is reinforced at rear, so higher speed gears like 13:1's need a bit of modding to top of case but if you are looking at DMR you probably stay with 18:1 or maybe 16:1's which will fit OK The std motor in most cheap Cyma's is a 27/28tpa which has some torque but rather slow So would need to look to running on 11.1v on stock motor to add some zest or replace motor with a stronger neodym motor and run on 7.4v or 11.1v depending on speed/spec (Basically you want something that cycles at say 12rps on 7.4v then use 11.1v to fire at 19rps say) There are numerous options, more than one way to skin a cat etc... But do you REALLY want a DMR ??? Miss out on most the action just taking pot shots on semi ??? Clean up barrel, set hop well or replace with say Maple Leaf Macron or something use decent .25's and stick with a reg AEG with better accuracy maybe chuck on a pair of deans over tamiya and just use it as it is, more fun, less grief/hassle if/when it plays up then look at some replacement bits and some tweaks But I wouldn't go nutz on it, it will STILL be a cheap Cyma no matter what (a pretty good cheapo gun, but I would go too nutz chucking "top of the line internals" in there myself) If you got a CM515 or CM518 then get it running sweet & a bit more accurately @ 340~348 fps, job done add a bit more zest/juice/motor at some point perhaps but still think I'd use it as AEG than DMR But up to you, just a small heads up on some of the minor qwirks on Cyma V2's as requested
  11. Did you try a SHS v2 tappet as that is one tappet that retracts a smidge more imho (not a great deal but a whisker more) Sand front of tappet to get it to return more and use a whisker shorter nozzle or sand nozzle etc.... There are various bodges & work-arounds for each situation BUT you have discovered those cam bearing sectors are a bit limited for tappet travel tuning (you can't fit delayer) Well you can but more involved bodging or slightly larger bearing or remove bearing and tap in a large conventional cam Those 14:1 bearing cam sector gears - chuck it in a V3 maybe that has a smidge more tappet travel to begin with and you should have less tappet/feed issues I reckon than on a V2 The joules & mps & bb weight crap kinda got me confused at first... - keep it simple with chrono on 0.20's results But then you are using a m110 - so no biggy pulling stuff on a 22tpa neo Maybe 16:1 on 11.1v is what I'm guessing you are using to power it all ??? G&G ETU's like 11.1v than lower voltage & the ETU is I believe AB or partial AB breaking (but still wouldn't trust it long term, but that is just me) Me personally, I like either SHS or Cyma pistons as they are good cheap pistons for ya buck SHS Blue pistons can bind in a number of boxes - lovely in a G&G box though Cyma's are a bit loose in some boxes (like the G&G that loves SHS pistons) & in some instances where one is too tight/loose perhaps... I have another old ACM in pink & also in black from years & years ago that are like tanks but in the middle of SHS/Cyma fitment in those inbetween boxes, but very few left now, damn they were nice, should have bought more at the time Bit heavier but really like tanks - sadly long gone out of production but cheap and strong as an ox driving an M1 Abrams Realistically you are looking for 20~25rps build so how you get there you will have numerous options/ways of doing it some will have more overspin - but you can argue that it will have a bit of pre-cocking & park the gun on 7.4v before packing up for day you could use AB or a m120 & Short Stroke - which if using 16:1's you can utilise the old std 18:1 sector to experiment with as long as release tooth is not the fat type - you can leave the full rack on piston if a large release tooth on sector then best remove teeth on piston too TM gear but seen this jumbo release/last tooth on some reg AEG's.... so if your sector has teeth all the same size - you don't have to remove the spare teeth on rack it will work, though many remove them just to be on safe side, yet if you check your work you can leave rack Then with full rack you can experiment with a 1 tooth SS, 2 tooth SS, 3 tooth SS etc - just remove another tooth on sector cleanly on pickup if all fails/you remove too many teeth, then on a 16:1 set you should be able to grab a decent std sector and "should" be compatible with the rest of 16:1 set and start over again with more teeth on sector etc... (shimming permitted and a bit of nice meshing etc... but "should" work or be able to find one decent 18:1 sector from a box of spares) TBH if you just chuck in a basic mosfet like the titchy perun, or a diy 3034 - heck the donkey work is done then look to add a more featured warfet or something in minutes at some point later on if needed But if I understand you are using 11.1v to power it all then 22k & 16:1 might be the way I would look to go Something on a m120 SS say 2 teeth running 15rps say on 7.4v to make 24rps with a bit of overspin on 11.1v I'd drop a steel COL in there maybe if you spam on semi a lot - or test present COL see if it is magnetic/ferrous/steel already Thing is you ask this question and you will get a number of variations perhaps more than one way to skin a cat and all/most will be valid & wise, usually arriving at a 20~25rps snappy build eventually I'd keep the trigger conventional & have the regular external mosfet "Warfet ready" if needed heck fit the basic perrun /diy 3034 onto a set of deans in the middle of loom, deans at both end two mosfet supply/signal wires on a 2.5/2.54mm XH/JST connector or something There ya go - Warfet ready if you want some bells & whistles at some point then sell your gun on with the basic tiny perun/3034/ASR mosfet in there to keep your flashy warfet for next project ahhh just slap it together, test it out and get a feel yourself based on your more recent builds of what you usually roll with The best planning in the world, the best rps calculations and wotnot only get you so far Most of the time the specification of a build is often based upon what shit works so far and factor in a bit of variation depending on different spec of your next gun/build In other words, you end up going with your own wisdom & gut instinct on a build spec most of the time what works, the results, response, battery life, reliability etc.. - new gun's spec mostly based on your last couple of builds You get a good feeling if/when you can predict fairly accurately the gun results/performance on the planning table and identify if something isn't quite right if those figures fall considerably short of expectations (bad shimming, poor motor performance or poor airseal/fps drop etc...) Understand you wanting to plan it out as much as possible... But don't be like me - way way way overthinking stuff much too often either perhaps build it - use it - if it breaks then fix it and learn from it, how most of us have found out the hard way improve with every build maybe, but spend less time over-planning and more time playing with the results (I'm too old for this shit so have become a gearbox anorak saddo )
  12. When you say - lock the moment you pull the trigger more than twice.... Is the gun stalling, struggling to cycle etc.... (which it shouldn't be with a 16tpa neodym motor so much) Or the trigger is like on safe mode - refusing to travel properly coz COL is raised (or the odd v3 safety arm on other side is impeding the silver two part trigger swinging upwards and pushing trolley) In other words real resistance from COL not resetting or settling so trolley passes over COL arm (so COL lifts to pop trolley later) Or trolley is jumping off of trigger mechanism - through worn components, at full pull which is not really "locked" as I would call it Now you say you replaced the piston with a SHS one ??? A Blue SHS steel rack piston ??? Coz they can, well do bind in the JG V3 I just tested - use a Cyma piston or check binding sand/file the piston/runners & retest to ensure piston doesn't bind Now if the piston binds, it will slow and release late, it "might" slow that sector rotating at last few teeth, that might make the drivechain near stall on release briefly and leave the sector in a later position with COL still raised ??? That COL slightly raised would lock the trigger in dead zone maybe So need to clarify what you mean by "locked" specifically Also was this problem happening prior to these "upgrades" and/or what other parts/upgrades were performed by previous owners did it have an ongoing issue before you bought it - or got worse since you upgraded it JG box I tested with 2 SHS pistons, that were binding in my v3... Check piston for binding by inserting in box, tilt box up/down and piston should rise/fall freely my guess is that if your SHS is like my "regular" SHS Blue steel - it will probably bind Between the grooves/channels, that moves on the gearbox piston rails inside JG stock piston measures 18.26mm Cyma metal rack measures 18.29mm (doesn't bind) SHS measures 19.2mm & does bind, not moving freely Unsure about the lightened SHS pistons with holes or slots in my two were regular & another I started to swiss a while ago But SHS pistons can bind in a fair few boxes, and a little tight at back of box in a few more & binding pistons can cause some weird issues & rob you of rps (even fps) & efficiency & add wear too
  13. Hope you didn't change the Cut Off Lever to a SHS or other type... Silver JG is bottom, SHS one is on top (black) with larger lug sanded to show difference use one those and you could have selector issues meaning the the COL is slightly raised in semi These small lug COL's are fitted to the JG G36's & SIG's, not sure about AK's but likely if you replaced the COL with another type (larger lug) like SHS then you will need to mod it a bit "normally" the COL will wear or the trolley/shuttle is well used & abused Another issue if you replace the selector plate, see Cyma G36's have a selector plate lower cut on semi as it uses the larger lug COL like SHS type... The JG selector has more material on the JG selector as there is a tiny lug so COL is down on semi & raises correctly on auto - which is also a smidge higher than the Cyma plates Replace or mix/match stuff around and you will get the COL not settling in the correct position be it half raised on auto and the dead zone where trolley can't slip under the part raised COL or slightly raised a smidge on semi, struggling to pass over the COL or it does the trigger may slip off at full/further pull Apart from a worn trolley - mullered at back of trolley, the trigger mechanism could be worn... but tend to doubt it unless it is really caned hired gun, normally a good bit of silver material contacting trolley plus on full pull the trolley moves very slightly downwards as trolley moves forward I've found helping to maintain contact You might have wear on the trigger's mounting holes and yes there is a bit of slack in V3 two part triggers I'm afraid you can take up only a minor amount of slack before you go down the route of more serious trigger modding (and still won't give an ultra fine hairline trigger) Performance wise, the JG motors are not that slow, often thought to be 22tpa than slower 27/28tpa like some others so JG's if compression is good will have a tiny little more zest than others All the testing of the trigger mechanism can be well tested with just the box, col trigger & sector you can remove the selector plate - carefully to closely see it all in operation at the back as you pull trigger and roll sector watching how it all works & trolley pops etc.... But - How much have you changed and to what is the real question ??? Was is bought s/hand aka f*cked or brand new - what did you do/change did you force it on the "dead zone" where you released trigger too early on semi ??? What ya done & more info plus some pics might help btw
  14. Any bit of software is like trying to master a new strange complex computer game Learning just the basics feels like that ultra hard level you have stuck on for days/weeks It is an amazing feeling when you finally manage to get to grips with it even better when you understand it slightly and start to slowly begin to incorporate your new found skill (even if only on a limited scale) From rendering, to figuring out DTP stuff to Oooohhhhh is that what macros n crap do in xcel etc.... Fucking easy peasy - when you know how of course, impossible when you don't Congratulations sir, don't understand any of it, still can't work the Virgin V+ box, leave it to the kids but well done, some very nice work indeed
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