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Sitting Duck

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Sitting Duck last won the day on September 10 2018

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About Sitting Duck

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  1. The original charger is referred to as a B4 charger as it is similar to the old Imax B4 charger 240v transformer built in, charges through balance lead blah blah blah Had 2 B4 types and they were both shit 1st one made a loud buzzing when plugged in - yeah fuck that went straight in the bin 2nd one the LED's and charging had a mind of its own, sometimes failed to charge othertimes only 2 out 3 LED's wanted to work or recognise a 3 cell LiPo (a workaround was to plug it together, no good - turn off at plug, wait & switch on - 3 LED's and she starts to charge) naaaahhhhh - best thing would be a GENUINE B6 and be done with it charge anything (if you got the correct leads & RTFM if needing to adjust settings for LiFe's or whatever) Clone B6's are everywhere, I've got clone B6's but I recommend people obtain a legit genuine B6 anything else, you run the risk of it being cheap nasty and/or fucking dangerous not saying there are not good cost effective chargers out there - but there are a lot of shit/dangerous ones too Forget B4's - they take much longer to charge through just the balance lead the night before game B6 - charge anything with the right leads/settings and if genuine will serve you well (and safely) for yonks
  2. motor pinion gear is either: 0.050 inches or 1.3mm or nothing if O type pinion then you can lever it off with a bit of heat & two thin levers missus used to get the hump using regular table knives from kitchen draw but it worked at a push refitting - yeah really need a motor pinion puller - especially to replace O pinion gears easily motor height grub screw - fuck knows it varies from gun/pistol grip plate or motor cage but most regular hex kits should have one in there - it is the pinion grub screw that is a bitch to locate at times I bought a few 0.050's from fleabay - wise to still heat the pinion a bit (gas hob - missus goes nuts again) wise to heat pinion a tiny bit, to help loosen and break any threadlock that "might" have been used before trying hex key
  3. FUSE ??? Shit soldering - weak solder joint that blew/broke at deans connector when tested Stretched wiring when soldering deans than loosened/pulled on motor connector, coming adrift (I say motor connector but could have come off v3 switch on box) UAR I think has a copper plate selector plate than can play up on semi but fine on auto you say won't fire on on auto or semi so doubt if this is an issue in this case I'd say from initial guess popped fuse if fitted or bad solder joint on gun's dean connector (soz if you are a legend at soldering, but many are not that good at soldering and seen some piss poor deans fitted to guns) Or wire pulled from motor if you stretched/pulled wires too hard If gun was wired back to front on polarity then the AR latch "should" stop the gun trying to cycle in reverse (well it should do, some small tamiya converters have the wire polarity back to front and locked box running in reverse) that's my initial guesses atm - check your soldering/wiring for anything suspect on gun (battery works in other gun(s) so presume you know & followed the polarity on battery/deans connector OK) something daft I'd say
  4. The day AEG's use stepper motors or some other locked solid motor is the day you can remove the AR latch If when you removed the AR latch it tried to feed or rather chamber two BB's..... It loaded first bb into hop and started to chamber it to the bucking..... then as it over-run a little, box/drivechain started to roll back with no AR latch..... nozzle retracts a little and that is how the second bb started to load into hop unit The AR latch & spring adds very very little to the drivechain's resistance I'd say the tappet plate spring has more drag/resistance than the AR latch spring If a gun/box is allowed to roll back after over-cycling quite a bit then with a trimmed tappet fin, or even on some std fins you can get sector cam smashing into fin (risking damage from sector cam/delay clip mullering the fin or snapping fin off the tappet plate - yeah not ideal) As AEG motors are free rolling, the moment the power stops, even with AB the brake is only briefly applied the moment the power stops at motor, the main spring if pre-cocked will start to cycle backwards from tension Even mosfet manufactures - think BTC said you could remove it but gave unwise advice and the general rule is you keep AR naaahhh - you need or should refit the AR latch & with a tiny neodym magnet it is a breeze.... 1 or two of these 10mm neodym's will be perfect underneath (cheers to Samurai & others for top tip)..... The AB reverses polarity creating wear/heat at motor when trigger released spam loads on semi any any gun warms up a bit with AB spamming on semi the warmth increases from the AB not AR use a tiny magnet under box when closing as been said AR is steel/ferrous/magnetic so will hold it place (alas trigger is alloy so this trick doesn't work on triggers, but gluing spring to trigger tang can help for jumpy triggers)
  5. Nice just check the bevel gear's 10 teeth as they are on SOME bevel's a bit thin looking imho the 16:1 sets I had from China/TinyWind & others like TWG were OK with 6 latches but 13:1's had 8 latches and rather thinner looking 10 teeth meshing to spur, that I chose to use other bevels instead The BD/ZCI gear sets are not as chunky as SHS sets if shim space in some boxes is tight and they run/spin very smoothly, I'd say a whisker smoother than SHS in many boxes (plus a bit cheaper), so they have some plus points over SHS The SHS sets are more chunky and plenty of teeth width on the gears - but as been said by many some batches/gen 3 or 4 were better/worse than others with even SHS sets failing the Chinese lottery a pic says 1,000 words about bevels....... see how thick/thin the 10 teeth are, obviously treated/tempered manufacturing also matters too blah x 3 check the bevel gear, see what meshes well with ASG pinion..... hold motor in right hand, place bevel in left hand and press up against pinion with left thumb (left thumb at bottom/pinion not at top like pic shows - but check in ya hand bare motor/bevel) check by eye how well the gears mesh at 90 degrees to each other - max teeth meshing together..... hard to put into words and no real pic to hand but something like this arrangement but in your hands checking.... not like this..... Though Cyma bevels mesh at like 80 degrees with most pinions (even sluggish 28tpa cyma stock motors/pinions) but they mesh at 90 with Big Dragon pinions on BD motors I found - weirdness Just coz a pinion/bevel mesh at 90 exactly still don't mean they roll smoothly, but worth checking angle then see how they roll together in your hand etc...... This stuff is worth a quick check coz a lot of shrill will come from a poorly matched pinion/bevel, no matter how perfect the rest of box is shimmed & assembled. I mean there are loads of other factors like pistol grip/motor angle blah blah blah but always worth checking them mofo little gears first beforehand sounds a nice build going on there sir
  6. TBH - I don't think it will matter that much if 12:1 or 13:1 I have chucked in both SHS & cheapo BD 13:1 gears - though BD bevel is crap so used std bevel (whatever meshes nicely and press bevel/pinion up tight to check for 90 degree meshing so as close as 100% teeth mesh to transfer power nicely - some mesh at 85 or 95 degrees) 30k motor on 13:1 to get into twenties on rps on 7.4v 22tpa or about 22k motor - use for maybe DMR on 11.1v as it is a bit slower or not much quicker than 18k motor Think most motor spec crap is taken at 8.4v or a fully ultra charged 7.4v LiPo fresh off charge (.5v extra/4.2v per cell) 22tpa will be fine, but might not be as fast, even with 12:1 as said I would be inclined to use a much torquey motor where needed in a DMR or DSG End of the day it won't matter that much a few rps either way, as long as it runs smooth & cool/low draw etc.... and you ask 10 people what they like/recommend - you'll get half a dozen variations plus about a dozen or so different parts list of some description & what motor/gears/bushing/ceramics mixture etc.... other crap like piston lightening - not worth it unless you are really sad Short Stroking - only for shorter guns say 300mm or less as you lose volume & crap (again only if you are really fucking sad like moi & very bored for poops n giggles) nah - decent motor, snappy gears and a bit of attention to detail = snappy gun - job done
  7. The only two minor niggles is that ASG is I think " O " pinion so if pinion wears or needs changing to one that meshes better with bevel then pinion puller required - or find a better meshing bevel Slightly more expensive than some places offer SHS from time to time but ASG/Infinity are respected with alloy end bell etc..... Watch out if you see SHS HT's on AliExpress for $20 - they are ferrite STD Motors a few people have been caught out, not moi I've stopped buying peew peew But a few grabbed these and found out they are just a weak/std motor unlike the pic Buy from reputable places or triple check out stuff - you won't get a neo motor under $30 really (OK maybe a neo BD 140/160 @ $29:50 but naaahhhh & avoid & BD M120 = ferrite so double avoid those ones) But yeah - a 30k motor give or take 5k eg: 25,000 to 35,000 is a decent motor anything faster is gonna run warm with extra amps & much slower is unlikely to be needed torque wise for a reg UK 350 gun (DMR maybe a slower torquey motor on 11.1v) But yeah around 30k rpm +/- 5k is a good basis to build on, but whatever you can get hold of & works
  8. Yeah - all on 7.4v 25c inc Cyma's Dan's M4..... probably fucked now but at time of building - it went well & if he asks about warranty well it was running alright when I left it in vid might be at 22rps if using say a 15 or 20c, but I use the 25c 7.4v Zippy Compact and swear it was 24 rps It was an Asia Gun M4 M7 full metal cheapo GF offer at £85 or something daft full metal - think it had 8mm bearings but swapped to bushings used good G&G bronzey bushing for sector coz COL was just catching so easier to file down a smidge rest was proper steel bushings https://www.airsoftworld.net/aeg-m7-special-forces-xmas-offer-deal.html Worth it at silly price and Dan was after a M4 PDW with medium motor or change grip - yeah fuck that how about this M7 cheapo mofo - he bought the bits, inc green motor I think which wasn't quite as low amp/sweet as an old orig SHS HT heard on Airsoft Society they "might" have altered their tpa from say 16 tpa to 18 tpa which might explain why green RA wasn't quite as good as the older unused SHS - fuck knows All I know it well (for once) but the cheapy Cyma's with G&G blue ferrite's wasn't far behind in the end too
  9. From memory of std (almost) builds but alas SHORT STROKED 3 teeth Did a titchy M4 build a while back that I was ultra pleased about (was it Dan - jeez was along time ago) 13:1, SHS HT probably m115/m120 SS 3 teeth I think produced about 330fps (Mall safe) at 24 rps 7.4v 25c battery very thick wire - prob 15awg (needed work to fit in) pulled about 16 amps I think, I had a Rocket Green to use but somehow the orig SHS had a smidge more zest (heard some say SHS/Rocket had dropped the tpa/rpm a bit recently from 30k to about 28k but then this could be just variation from cheapo china lottery slapped together in typical sweat shops) The SHS HT was a new but say 18 months old unused motor I had to hand - tiny bit better than Green RA but yeah if done really well (bushings) can just hit 24rps on 7.4v 25c - though was SS 3 teeth mind Also took 2 x Cyma 517's apart for a giggle & redid them to similar spec m120 = 396fps so SS 3 teeth, removed piston spacer, AoE guide blah blah blah to get 335fps on 300mm barrel used cheapo 13:1 set, but a different bevel coz them cheapo BD 13:1's bevels are shit Used 2 x G&G Blue Powerful Motor's aprox 25k - slightly stronger than stock ferrite - better than std 18k not as good as orange ifrit but not a bad stock(ish) motor to reuse in budget builds imho Anyway - rebuilt these exactly the same - one was 330fps & one was a bit lower so flipped irregular spring to get 338 I think (think I didn't fit v3 bearing spring guides - trust cyma to use v3 in a V2 box as it would push it over 340fps) just seeing if I could tweak and downgrade cheaply for poops & giggles & test my SS theories n shit One gun hit 19rps & the other just about touched 20rps now & then - ultra low amps of 12amps when tested (was very pleased with this low amp draw to rps ratio plus cheapo parts used) so for a budget build the G&G (quite new & other lightly used) motor did OK in my book for a budget tweak Now all of these examples were SS 3 teeth so take off a round or two perhaps ??? I really don't know WTF this effects the rps over full stroke blah blah blah Now these are SS builds, but the final draw/amps/shimming and all the shit that goes with it makes a HELL OF A DIFFERENCE - if shimmed like shit, loads of stress then you will get heat & poor performance Those builds are about some of my better ones - can list lots of terrible ones when shit didn't go to plan but that was things went well for a change & tbh I doubt if I could have got it much better (without ceramics, faster motor & lots & lots & lots more attention to detail - I did spend a while checking shit at the time) soz they are SS examples but they are some of my best examples that stick in my mind
  10. If you took a 13:1, SS 3 teeth, say m115~m120 spring, SHS HT motor, 16awg + deans etc..... ROF - up to say 24rps on 7.4v 25c lipo if done very well or near 37rps on 11.1v, those are rough figures you could obtain IF DONE PROPERLY Before you go nutz and think great 11.1v it is..... you would be advised to install a mosfet, even on 7.4v and on 11.1v perhaps an AB mosfet as gun cycling much faster (aprox 55%, a smidge over 50% it normally works out) The issue is the gun would cycle so much quicker on 11.1v you will get overspin on release of piston COL/trolley and serious overspin is the gun talking to you in general - on a reg std gun this overspin is a strong message if a std gun overspins a lot and starts to double fire - then expect sometime soon PE to take place (especially on auto) Now on a SS setup the risk of PE is reduced - but not eliminated Rough rule of thumb for Short Stroking - each tooth you remove off sector on PICK UP SIDE - not release side each tooth reduces the spring or fps by about 16fps or each tooth removed drops the spring by about 5 on the m120 (so m120 x 3 teeth removed = m105 or 345fps, take off say a bit for shorter barrel gun, say 320fps is a rough guess) My advice - build a fucking good 13:1, SS 2 or 3 tooth setup, SHS HT and run on 7.4v with low amps/watts you could scrape by without a mosfet if you draw around 15 to 17amps or 120 watts on 7.4v for a while Shoot shit in the twenties is plenty, improve your skill than try to get the gun to compensate for you Personally - don't worry too much about lightening the piston - you only save about 10~15% or about 1.5 grams a bit of fucking about for little saving - if your complete piston is about 20~22gms - that will do fine Seriously - if you nudge 20rps to 25rps, that should do most people and last well if done correctly anything crazy is just people showing off trying to over compensate for something I say this coz many of us thought we MUST have a hose machine coz a hose machine is everything in airsoft (not) edit - basically what @Iceni already said, don't mind me I off the chain briefly.....
  11. Isn't that G&G a ETU gun ???? TBH forget DSG as it is well over rated I'd just run it on a small 11.1v until the ETU or box craps out then re-do it as a 13:1 short stroke setup on a m115 spring The motor might be an Orange Ifrit or Blue G&G 25k motor on 13:1 you get near 20 rps on 7.4v if done right or 30rps on 11.1v (you would really need to know what you are doing and dump the ETU for a proper mosfet) Resist the DSG temptation BS - a good tweaked SSG will get very good results without a lot of money & hassle if done right replace the bronzey bushings as they wear quickly - especially under the gears really quick TBH - just use the gun as it is for a good while until it starts to crap out, the fps - wait until it drops below 300fps or something too many people - including me, take a working gun and fuck it up trying to upgrade shit plus a DSG unless you really really walk on water just craps out & destroys itself very quickly most DIY DSG's instead of firing very quickly, end up just destroying themselves very quickly instead uae it as is for a good while and stick with a tweaked SSG setup maybe than dream of a DSG
  12. surprised about the element springs tbh apart from chopping a spring you could try leaving a spring compressed overnight to force it to fade take an crappy piston, drop a long bolt through it, add strong spring, large robust washer & nut tighten the nut n bolt to compress spring into old piston leave over night & retest might be worth a shot - excuse the pun to save opening up box to remove bearing/piston spacer what you can try is rotating the spring if you are near that figure on irregular springs the tightly wound end goes at back but if you rotate spring so tight coils are up front in piston you should gain an extra 10fps aprox I found obviously on regular springs there is no real difference if you rotate them one thing I would do is ensure your hop is fully dialed in for the bb's you are using be a bitch if you get it bang on, then lose 10~15fps tweaking the hop to get the lift perfect
  13. Be careful - some of the plastic JG M4 receivers had a two piece hop unit like TM, older SRC's - with or without the loops on matching top receiver some of SRC and/or SRC cheapy Dragon's varied with loops or without (& metal or plastic gearbox - ignore this bit of trivia but stuff varied) What I'm saying is that your metal JG probably has the std one piece hop but look carefully at the JG plastic reciver - might have extra plastic where hop goes (eg: originally for a ye olde two-piece hop unit) So you might have to carefully dremel or hack away to fit your one piece hop in there.... If you want something heavy - try a D-Boys 416/614 clone - now THAT is a heavy bastid anyway - check & compare what you got/buying and if you need a bit more modding for ya hop unit etc....
  14. Long story short, some personal issues got rather heated - stuff thrown & crap like that - not personal violence but still bad I done my nut & was a complete [email protected] I'll admit - she took off for a few days all kicked off the Thursday before Mall event & I was a bit fucked up to say the least but yet 99.5% my fault (did my friggin' nut over something so tiny/stupid - I'm not even going to admit to it - ever) so I took time out and all that to get stuff sorted and to grips with real stuff that matters not to flip out at stupid stuff, or spend my time tinkering with peew peew & chill out a bit with family Think I've hung up my guns so to speak, but just popped in today as it was so quiet & saw my necro HC05 soz Trigg - saw your text but was/still so embarrassed about it all I never responded - I'm a tool as I said I'm just passing through chaps - don't intend to live on here like I did before might dust off a gun or two maybe when/if my youngest (11) wants to peew peew like his elder brother did soz for being a [email protected] though and dropping you all like that but I was a messed up [email protected] (totally my fault) (still a prat/nob)
  15. it has but I've hung up my guns now I reckon (long story - even by my war & peace standards) just before stuff hit the fan I got hold of these motors..... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/PermTerminator-Ultra-Custom-M160-High-Twist-Type-High-Speed-Motor-High-Torque-AEG-Motor-Short-Axis/2042149112.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.16.46e8542f3EI3Q9&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10065_10068_10130_10547_319_317_10548_10696_10192_10190_453_10084_454_10083_10618_10307_10820_10301_10821_10303_537_536_10902_10059_10884_10887_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_51,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=b8d37fa9-7fde-446f-88e1-aee119a81029-2&algo_pvid=b8d37fa9-7fde-446f-88e1-aee119a81029&transAbTest=ae803_3 & https://www.dx.com/p/gear-motor-for-m180-m4-m16-mp5-g3-m14-power-upgraded-airsoft-aeg-2001815#.XHx0WcD7TIU the blue looked nice with vents at about 28k & red one at about 22k both are neodym with alloy ends that seemed to mesh nicely with SHS bevels but everything got packed away so never got round to putting them through their paces they looked pretty decent and not too crazy or expensive both with D pinions so easier to change than ASG O pinions I only really popped in coz such a slow day today and wondered how you guys were doing then f*ck me necro post nearly four years of the HC05 - but thought I'd best point out the BD M160 is too quick/hot yeah chaps - you don't want them crazy mofo motors - way too hot & OTT if you know how to build a good box well I just popped back as it was so quiet today etc.... Duck Jnr is half way through his first year at Uni - 19 years old - jeeeeeeez seem like only last month we racked up at TWA urban site (soon closed) at Crystal Palace/Anerley Hill Glad to see you guys & this place still around
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