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Sitting Duck

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Sitting Duck last won the day on May 5

Sitting Duck had the most liked content!


About Sitting Duck

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    AF-UK Addict

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  • Guns
    (i need serious help)
  • Loadouts
    Camping with lots of ammo/mags
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    Tactical Warfare London/Surrey
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  1. Sitting Duck


    Gearbox is almost identical to the cheapo plastic Cyma cm517's etc.... It is from a different casting, there is no trigger tang limiter in top half of gearbox The cylinder window is not re-enforced - so a BARE piston fits through it (no ultra extra material above/below cylinder that stops piston fitting through) It is radius'd up front already and painted black than un-painted like cheapo box Still 8mm cross bushings - but ok tbh Still re-enforced at back - so mod req for fitting 13:1 gears Still v3 spring guide but they include a bearing spring guide Still crap Lonex type clear tappet plate & crap nozzle Still crap cylinder head that falls out on its own Still not so great cyma gears with #1 bevel Still need to remove safety arm screw prior to opening box Still cyma switch with rear prongs Basically nigh on the same gearbox, just a very slightly different casting A while back older Cyma MP5's had 7mm cross bushings instead of 8mm This box was not re-enforced at rear so 13:1 gears went straight in normal tappet plate I think too Anyway you can see this all over again here: OR pics of a metal Cyma 072 extensively torn apart by a guy on Arnie's about 6 months ago.... https://imgur.com/a/W1lRi fill ya boots on what's inside, they had the 069 for about £105, which was a blinding deal but now no more (was a bit too long for my liking for a reg AEG or I'd probably bought one (or two) at that price So not bought stuff for a while and tbh - with a tear down like that you get to see what is inside basically the same internals near enough on gearbox but with bolt catch, metal receiver & hop etc... still same lame 28tpa motor though but hey ho - the ones on offer an absolute bargain if they float ya boat
  2. Sitting Duck

    BB gun websites - LOL

    Funny enough Freeads is where a lot of unhappy JBBG customers try to flogg off their crappy guns Coz alas I couldn't sell my B500A1 on here - obviously some people just can't see a QUALITY gun BEZ GUN EVVAAAAAHHHHHHH TBH - think many of us have fallen into the JBBG trap - I know I did at first before I came here I think it is sort of an initiation test - and THAT is where he makes his money One born every minute - comes to mind
  3. Sitting Duck

    BB gun websites - LOL

    I've been asked to try to limit my posts as the site doesn't have enough bandwidth to allow me to do a full review on my thoughts about JambWow JustBBGuns is and will always be the biggest w@nker of the 3 main kiddy BB sites They are absolute bastids at selling $hit and even worse their return/refund CS is f*cking dire (you got more chance of getting blood out of a stone etc.... comes to mind returning $hit they sold you) BBGuns4Less - still sells crappy kiddy guns mostly through "awight geez - Dominic 'ere - dis gun is da nutz" But they CS is a bit better but still sell $hit, but spoke to him and that is what kids want - cheapo $hit Still avoid this place coz well it's mainly still $hit but unfair to class them in same boat as JambWow/JBBG OnlyBBGuns - still $hit but best out of three imho if you are getting desperate and they have something you need Not all their stuff is total $hit, free postage on say £30 orders and code RC10 might still work for 10% off (don't flame me if it don't - it is yonks old, but did work a while back) Only is same place as iWholesalers or whatever, they basically just buy up stuff from Gunfire & TaiwanGun really Wow that was long enough - soz mods if site started to glitch a bit
  4. Never mind puffy LiPo's check your Tesla batteries on a regular basis.... https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-us-canada-44511200

    1. Adolf Hamster

      Adolf Hamster

      is it just me or when tesla says "our car is less likely to do x than normal cars" i read that as the polar opposite.


      can't recall the last time heard of a normal car (ie not a ferrari or something like that) spontaneously bursting into flames for no apparent reason.

    2. M_P


      True but on the other hand it doesnt make the news for other companies either each time something happens either 

  5. You got the quick change spring gearbox - walk in the park well sort of, bit like riding a bike with stabilisers on to be fair as the mother learning curve is the main spring making stuff explode or everything threatening to explode once more as you attempt to close up box (try a m160 spring on a dsg - now THAT is fun getting the thing closed up) So pop spring, open box re-do the wiring - likely just reuse the existing wiring, BOTH wires on 1 contact & add 1 thin signal wire from trigger back to mosfet on other point, close box, then fit spring etc.... (piece of cake and easiest method) Use a couple of tiny earth magnets under AR latch to hold in position ( props to @Samurai ) the trigger though can be a tricky SOB if it threatens to jump out (non ferrous so can't use magnets - can and drop of glue on spring to trigger's tang) You end up developing your own technique on closing up a box - watch a few vids but honestly - that quick change spring is like having stabilisers on your first bike still (well perhaps not quite, but makes your first box a LOT easier) take your time, watch for shims, keep them all in place what went where... Take pics on your fone if not 100% sure what goes where etc... - nowt wrong with that take ya time & you'll be fine etc.... PS look at some of the Gate Nano mosfets, you can buy/fit a Nano ASR say then upgrade to Warfet or something at a later point bit bulky but plug in deans/connector leaves you a couple of upgrade options Weigh up if you really need to fit a mosfet just yet if keeping gun mostly stock and not going 11.1v then on 7.4v ~ 9.6v there is no great urgency for mosfet just plop on deans for your gun/battery if you want wait until you are gonna go nutz before ripping her open or if you seek to start pushing the gun more Just a lot of people steam in and make stuff worse before they start to make it better When opening box, you probably be wise to correct AoE, check compression etc... plus a clean/re-grease up etc.... There are other things to consider at same time, but a few checks should be done like I mentioned, so plan for a bit of servicing at same time - nothing major though PS - can't fit 13:1 gears in there I think with a little modding If I was gonna go nutz I'd likely swap out a few bits like at least 50% bushings but tbh - unless you are going to go nutz I'd likely use it until it needs servicing/fixing If it ain't broke - don't try to fix it as the saying goes If you are going down the DMR route you will need a programmable mosfet or mod the selector plate to semi only - no auto fire to set auto to single shot only as DMR's need to locked to semi only Personally think it is not best basis for a DMR perhaps but that is just my take M14 or SR25 are popular models but to each their own many people think they will make/use a DMR, but maybe just use it as a reg 350 AEG Still up to you I guess, it's your money/gun do what you like Wiring is fine as explained, can likely convert it say with a Warfet I think but don't quote me as not got one myself, but think you set it up that way (need to check what mosfets can be reprogrammed for single shot only)
  6. Sitting Duck

    Some G&G M4 questions

    Don't buy a blowback - they "can" be more prone to cracking I listed 4 good G&G CM models the other day all non-ETU's that will offer good value for money You can run 7.4v to 9.6v without a fuss 11.1v can be tricky long term, if you beef up the gun you will need a mosfet it is about the amps plus voltage eg: Volts x Amps = Watts Start by drawing much over 100 watts and the arcing increases most guns draw say 11~12 amps but beef it up and that can double with high speed motors get it right with torquey motor and 13:1 gears and you stay in the middle at 16amps or just over not too bad to stay on 7.4v x 16 amps = 118.4 Watts BUT chuck in a very high speed SHS motor of something at say 40k 45k you draw 20amps + Now 7.4v x 20amps = 148 Watts Or 11.1v stock gun drawing 11amps = 122.1 Watts It is the Watts really not so much volts or amps that can burn away contacts though to be fair they are all relative of course but really though I test stuff for amps it draws at the end of the day it is the Watts in the end that kill the contacts
  7. Sitting Duck

    G&G GC16 ffr opinions

    £267 for that with a w@nky 18k motor = ferrite ??? THIS is why Krytac came along and kicked G&G's ar$e By all means buy the same internals as a £120 carbine or £140 Raider 2.0 shoved in a metal receiver But when buying a higher end G&G often you won't see where that extra cash went on some models G&G make great starter guns, nowt wrong with their polymer receivers but be careful you don't get swept along thinking I'll stick with the same but more expensive gun Look out for a Krytac deal or a nice s/hand one - or put another £50 in your budget You could look at VFC Avalon though to settle the argument Krytac Vs VFC VFC didn't quite beat Krytac - if anything they managed to tie for the top spot imho In any case Krytac upped the game and made all others manufacturers wake up a bit with their higher end guns But f*ck buying a £267 G&G when Specna Arms and others are about (not the plastic Specna Arms Core guns, G&G still have the edge, but meant their metal M4 Specna's)
  8. Sitting Duck


    30c ??? getting a bit quick to me 15~20c is a bit lame, 20c min, 25c is what I tend use but specs or stickers vary, the zest factor is a bit of myth or open for debate tbh NORMALLY 25c about 2000mah is a decent-ish battery others say a bigger battery say 3000mah provides a lot more punch than a 1200mah same 25c well - maybe but I got a 1300mah 33c 11.1v and that f*cker has shredded more pistons taking the pi$$ than any other battery - think its output is way more than the label and the cells are well out of balance Any battery you get for your mobile from China say is often half the rating written on the outside so tbh take "some" of these specs written on outside as only a ROUGH guide to its real performance (I trust little of manufactures claims but most decent makes hold kinda true to their spec) The main issue with ramping up the juice is the stock motor inside G&G use 3 main types Grey 18k std lame motor in my old FFR A2 Blue powerful 24k motor in some others CM18, FireHawk, some older TopTech's etc... Orange Ifrit 25k neodym motor Depending on motor inside will dictate just how fast the guns cycles and the risks If using a 11.1v 30c LiPo with the Orange Ifrit then you are likely to hitting say 24~26rps I'd guess at around 24rps many guns will overspin a fair bit and risk double firing Though ETU might help kill the cycle a smidge sooner, the cycling is a bit quick for a UK stock spec gun Remember Krytac had to install a 20k motor but some grey/gray imports had the 30k motor with a M95/100 spring on a 30k motor - throw in a 11.1v some guns wrecked themselves coz was too quick fine if you have a US 390/400fps gun on m120 on 11.1v But a 340fps going nutz PME could take place and stuff starts to break So we normally go with a reasonable 18~23rps as a nice safe rof for UK guns unless you do the work of Short Stroking or running a slightly slower torque motor to ease up on rof normally nudging twenties is plenty going higher than mid twenties on a stock gun is pushing it or increasing risk of PME redo the box and yeah mid 30's is achievable but if G&G are still using their stock black plastic single tooth piston - I'd be inclined to go easy on da juice/burst
  9. Sitting Duck


    SOME say 11.1v on either Hog or Predator - some like the original SRS said 7.4v or 9.6v Think the new ARP says f*ck all about recommended battery - yeah that gives me assurance ??? Being G&G used all sorts of excuses about ETU problems, then saying there was a recall/replacement available To which many retailers knew f*ck all about this ETU mosfet replacement issue All confirmed G&G was winging it as they went along....
  10. Sitting Duck


    But some of G&G's manuals actually say about using a 11.1v battery - think the Hog or Predator suggest it
  11. I do love it when a sitting duck post comes together...

  12. Sitting Duck

    Are Lipos worth it?

    LiPo together with switching to deans should make a decent difference Deans - just on their own make about 10~12% to response/rof on some guns with multiple breaks/connections on thin 18awg wire you might only notice half of that increase 5~6% though if wiring is really crap As stock guns fire say aprox 13rps - this increase is only about 1~1.5% rps boost on deans (though the response improves on deans and allows more power to flow without choke points) The wiring/connections are about potential choke points that offer resistance to reaching motor Deans over small tamiya offers a good deal improvement over the thin resistance of the connection LiPo's over much more snap or zest over ye olde nimah type batteries a 7.4v will out perform a 8.4v nimah and often a GOOD say 2000mah 25c 7.4v LiPo will match a 9.6v (When combining LiPo with deans you should see a boost of say 15%+ or more depending on gun) If you use a decent 7.4v with deans you should be fine for a good while without a mosfet for time being (unless you tweaked the gun up quite a bit with high speed motor) if using a 11.1v LiPo then it is advisable to consider fitting a mosfet at some point perhaps Long story short - it is about the amps/watts n crap to increasing risking of switch contacts burning out A modest fairly stock-ish gun on 7.4v you will be fine for a fair while without need a mosfet When people make the jump to LiPo depends on your circumstances/budget or whatever but ffs don't bother buying any more nimah's - save your money and at this point when your nimah's are dying THEN most people say f*ck this - I'm going LiPo/Deans
  13. Sitting Duck

    Never trust Internet Dating

    There are very few times I'm lost for words - ask anyone on here it is very very very rare indeed so I'll just ask was this guy also a car locksmith by chance ???? Though we shouldn't laugh too much I'd hate to try and explain this.... https://imgur.com/gallery/f1SOAEz
  14. Sitting Duck

    G&G advice

    Raider 2.0 - end off discussion my FFR A2 ETU went tits up - no thanks Oh & the barrel is about 210mm not 260mm It isn't even that the FFR A2 has any better internals - it doesn't you get the same lame ar$e 18k grey G&G motor in FFR A2 as Raider 1 Consider looking at CM18 or others.... a repost but wtf: some nice G&G's.... Older/established models..... G&G CM18 is still one of my fav guns comes with mid cap than usual high cap - so speed loader req (not a big fan of the flash hider but can't please everybody) Or loud mouth FireHawk - but not the HC05 lame DSG with no semi very nice newer models like Raider 2.0.... Raider 2.0 is non ETU don't get Raider 2.0E as that has picky ETU or very recently launched CM15 KR-CQB 8.5" (also 13" & 14.5") These guns are very nice cheaper non-ETU G&G polymer guns worth considering F*CK ETU's
  15. Sitting Duck

    CYMA CM069 project gun - ideas wanted.

    DSG'S are suited for barrels up to say 250mm (8 tooth DSG) maybe 275~300mm if using a 9 tooth DSG Hence most DSG's find themselves in short M4's, AK74's, G36c's, etc...... You could Short Stroke but not much imho..... Maybe 1 or 2 teeth, though tbh I'd only SS 1 tooth to maintain volume for 400mm barrel myself So as an AEG now with tbb etc... you would struggle to stay below 350fps with a m100 spring Thus could never really be a screamer rof DSG type gun Could be a nice "sensible" AEG at just over 20~23rps tops or a possible DMR, but you have the 417 now It is a fantastic buy for £105, just a tad too long to go too nutz with (speed wise) If they had just dropped the barrel to say 330~350mm The outer barrel could be 2" shorter so short suppressor just starts inside RIS (not a must biggy but just like that look myself, though looks are irrelevant tbh) The 340 aprox inner barrel would have allowed 2 maybe 3 teeth SS (probably 2 teeth for keeping vol) So likely use a m110~115 spring for 2 teeth SS 350fps gun etc..... If TWG already downgraded it then fine, use it as it is if it fires at 400+ fps stock - probably near 425fps with tbb then could go DMR route An absolute bargain to be had, just the gun (or rather me) can't quite decide which way to go with it I'd probably be leaning to use it as a nice sensible 349.9999fps AEG not needing to go too nutz internally/speed wise - well not for a while or just yet The qwirky Cyma box could have a few tweaks to a load of tweaks Trouble is where do you start & where do you stop ??? You would have to mod the box to fit 13:1's in there, so maybe 16:1's compression could be improved - cylinder head falls out nozzle is a bit meeeehhhhh, but red SHS nozzle is wobbly on qwirky tappet plate so if replacing tappet it needs modding - ffs could replace cyma piston for the cyma metal rack version - both could need a better/stretched o-ring consider getting the Cut Off Lever replaced for steel one if box is open perhaps (alloy one can wear if you shoot on semi a lot) Though if installing Titan you won't need COL, ceramics - well keep bushings under gears they are sound Whoooooooaaaaaaa getting carried away I'd see what way you might go with it and if possible hold off on going too nutz internally for the moment I mean you could install the Titan and go nutz internally by all means.... But the full Titan kit costs more than the gun did and all that And/Or in 6~12 months get it serviced & tweaked internally when you've decided where you are gonna go with it Think for the moment I'd be leaning towards a nice 350fps AEG without going too nutz inside until it needs or I have decided just how far/nutz I'm gonna go with it I could look at the gun for ages and still decide either way & how far nutz I could go then 5 mins later - change my mind (again) and continually torment myself in confusion (you could say that about a number of guns I guess but more so with this gun length) So really best just use it as is for a while with least amount of fuss/money/time I find it slightly ironic it was called the Cyma 69 coz you could go above (350fps - DMR) or just below (350fps AEG) rather than stand there thinking and planning it all out what is what or who goes where let's just get on with it and see what happens ffs (or saying to the lass - just suck it & see, as the saying goes)