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Sitting Duck

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Sitting Duck last won the day on June 22

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  1. if there was a black/tan version then you wouldn't face this colour issue... Actually that is not quite correct... The G&G CM18 comes as black & tan or tan & black To avoid the issue as which one is best - I bought both but then I do have OCD & many other issues too the 904G is back in stock but I'm really really torn if I will be buying much partly coz I got too much shit already but also coz I'm really trying to refrain from buying more shit from China due to COVID etc... Don't get me wrong, I could easily b
  2. Then your option is a sorbo pad topped with 2mm neoprene Punched off centre to match the v7 type cylinder head etc... Sorta custom scatterplot pad... But make your own up You could buy say a 22mm silicone pad/disc/blank washer Then punch your own hole say 7-10mm hole Or sorbo feet for hifi sound - solid sorbo discs on eBay But ensure you top it with robust neoprene pad At least 2mm thick, 1mm doesn't last I found Somewhere say 20-22mm diameter, about 3mm thick Re-use old pad etc... Cleaned up surfa
  3. Google: " Bye bye sorbo " on some sniper forum for silicone pad on cylinder head Or The issue with the SLAP is piston hitting a very hard neoprene pad Which be be a very loud or pronounced SLAP if head & pad are both hard & flat,effectively creating more of a CLAP A braked piston head like above might cause issues in very high rof guns But not so for slower rof guns like DMR's In snappier guns the classic soft mushroom heads are maybe better suited Or you can experiment and create
  4. Just NO Sorbo, silicone or a braked piston head to reduce impact are about the only real options The thought of a tiny spring versus the main spring How will it be affixed and the damage it will cause if it shifts out of position The design of AEG's is extremely crude & basic But also so is the wheel
  5. What do ya want exactly... but here's a bit of info on the UAR... http://www.booliganairsoft.com/2013/03/aps-uar-urban-assault-rifle-aeg.html ver 1 (rare or not so common) has battery up front like in review ver 2 has battery at the back for the last 5 years or so barrel is about 430mm ish good spring tester gun coz QC spring but std motor is lame cheapo one, struggles to pull/test over a m120 spring say but very long trigger travel - bit sloppy coz 2 part v3 trigger plus linkage for bulpup design can take short m4 mags if magw
  6. TOOOOOOOOOOONNNNNNNN... too many to list but ya know dem gud toooonz especially classics
  7. Alternative is to try another pistol grip Only sometimes some grips are worse than others/stock grip I don't normally advise changing grips if you can help it Some cheapo Magpul ones are really bad for increasing motor whine But on your case you might to consider it if STD grip is a bit tight Or kinda bespoke 4mm is a bit tight though... You tried the motor only in bare grip ??? It might be how you are routing the wires Apart from different grips effecting motor angle Some grips are tighter/looser in how they slip ov
  8. Whatever you do it will still be a G&G Raider tbh on that sorta gun - you just use it or sell it and buy a different model if the RIS is two tone then you could/might strip/paint it AFTER you get UKARA'd but really use it for what it is, it is a light starter gun and there is nowt really wrong with it why bother trying to stick a £40 metal RIS on a £100 value gun it won't do fuck all really - you can stick shit on the std Raider RIS OK RIS stuff - especially cheap stuff can be iffy on any gun sometimes the threads are really
  9. What MIGHT be inside.... now could ANYTHING from a shitty micro-switch POS to a basic trigger/trolley but as said MIGHT be like BattleHawk internals... At first glance it looks like an Ultimate/Lonex gearbox but Lonex tappet plates have cut out like Cyma V2's (where extra material is upfront & INSIDE the Cyma box, hence the tappet is cut/stepped at front) I don't see a stepped tappet plate so not quite a Lonex oem box like it looks like or nope the tappet isn't stepped... Think Ultimate have
  10. me too squire, I might understand why guns break only coz I've broken sooooooooo many myself I am the Doug (from Scrubs) of airsoft takes years of screw ups to realise he isn't cut out to be a doctor but becomes a natural expert at autopsy...
  11. possibly send to a tech - mightyjebus might be one, Jez Armstrong or Luke Negative Airsoft it can be done, the important bit with any work is to replace only the bits that need it and avoid throwing too much time/money at something reckon it can fixed or slight bodge for a while until it needs more work/service further down the line
  12. in the pic... there is a tiny small screw missing on a plate/mount- where your pinky is then there are two perhaps slightly larger countersunk screws that hold the lower hop onto the plate the tiny screw by your pinky is a pan/jap head and may not be a big deal though I don't think it would hurt trying to put one back in there - the wiring should still clear it (it is a front wired M4) then two countersunk self tapping screws (most likely) afix the lower part onto mount as i said and it should all be golden - but don't
  13. finding one might be tricky... sometimes the lower half is an alloy but older SRC & JG has them in too, Classic Army & others - not for about 5 or 6 years though on plastic receivers people often cut away material to fit in a modern one piece metal receiver will be a bit more tricky you should try to source a replacement before going nuts your gun might need a service and though the part is slightly broken it could be almost OK if the unit doesn't move too much the lower is only the feed tube, the top part
  14. Gay Femme Fatale G&G about £65 would have preferred the short Raider FF looks better and has a sexier lady on it too instead I got the long Carbine - but wtf I have some gay guns - just not in pink Ooh and a Krytac mk1, another HC05, a CM18 & some others but I guess the FF was one I thought wtf why not
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