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Sitting Duck

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Sitting Duck last won the day on September 10

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About Sitting Duck

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  1. Sitting Duck

    Plate carrier in the gym!

    Blimey you guys must go to some really rough & dangerous gyms if you need a plate carrier kidding - I know people who do martial arts well they train with leg & wrist weights to increase speed/power for strikes but yeah when I saw the title I thought - where do you train Kabul Afghanistan ???
  2. Sitting Duck

    to rebuild or buy new that is the question

    DO NOT BUY THE TOMTAC !!!! The micro switch burns out bespoke trigger (selector plate too) & Cut Off Lever you will have fun sourcing any replacements buy this instead.... https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/gearboxes-complete/ec-complete-gearbox-qd-v2-rear TBH - depends on the gun in question if you got decent gun in need of TLC then yeah.... if you got a pants SRC plastic starter M4 or something - hmmm maybe just buy a better gun
  3. Sitting Duck

    AEG Parts Breakdown

    It has the extended V2 gearbox, so off the top of my head I will need to install - MOSFET and deans connectors - new Hop chamber and bucking - inner barrel - gears - well maybe a SHS 16:1 bevel/spur but not absolute must - piston - yeah a steel rack is wise, there are a few SHS 19 tooths you still want a poly/plastic piston than alloy one old yellow, newer blue type or Pete seems to offer a white piston will metal rack - tappet plate - nope, but look out for a spare one is my advice - cylinder - should be a full cylinder anyway, test compression and replace only if needed - cylinder head - yeah probably, can get a long spout one as nozzle is longer than M4 - spring - need to check your site very carefully most sites for DMR's are 425 - maybe 450fps Bolt action they allow 500fps but not DMR's Remember just coz your site allows XXXfps other sites may say f**k off - motor (+ better pinion) - all depends how it performs and works out of box and how the A&K pinion meshes with std bevel or SHS bevel Change of pinion - well I "think" the std A&K neodym has a D type bevel but do not quote me Other similar looking motor like the JG blue - looks very similar has an O type pinion Plus stuff can change blah blah blah.... I'd do the old "wait n see" on motors n stuff tbh Piston head - what ever gives good compression (what type/make is a long discussion in itself, silent/mushroom, metal for weight/mass) The piston complete assembly should be heavier than reg AEG's (20gms aprox) You should aim for something like min 25gms to say 30gms as greater mass is more efficient in compression (so some people say in numerous tests on snipers/dmr's) sorbo topped with neoprene - if you want your bespoke box to last radius the box up front with round craft file nozzle - should be "about" 24.7mm - a 24.5mm G36 might be too short Some use an AUG nozzle - think it will be a case of looking to buy a couple and compare closely before testing Hop/barrel - stuff can be sorted later You have the issue of locking it to semi only - selector plate mod or fancy mosfet You decide what way you approach this - it will still fire on auto out of box So you need to factor in how to lock it a small additional switch hidden in stock to fire full auto is optional if it locks up in dead zone (unlikely but will save you agro if it happens on field) Pistol grip changes I never alter unless it is $hit often some after market grips can throw the motor angle out more than std grip especially cheapo magpul cones etc... - if it works then I tend to stick with std grip if angle OK-ish A full size fixed stock on a DMR - the proper hollow one is nice chuck a car battery in there, loads of room for mars bar lunch and any size mosfet etc.... make sure you get the plastic ring though.... THAT can be a bastid to source or make up as "some" full/stubby stocks don't all come with it included above.... NOT INCLUDED in the above stubby stock been caught out myself buying stubby stocks - bastids Avoid an ICS full size stock coz the bolt is shorter as ICS screw into an adapter and inch before spring guide plus isn't as hollow as other full size stocks avoid the adjustable one too as the battery doesn't quite just plop in... http://www.taiwangun.com/en/stocks-and-accesories/adjustable-fixed-stock-for-sr-25-ar-15-m4-black-cyma if you look at all the pictures - yeah it is a bit of a wank to put the battery in and small space compared to the suitcase a cheapo full fixed stock offers Yeah fixed stocks - you can get stung buying certain ones I found TBH - you don't need to do a great deal - just some basic tweaking & common sense stuff that won't cost a lot at all, no urgent need to replace motor if a screw driver sticks to grip (neodym A&K motor it should be) - you will run it on 11.1v The 16:1 gears - you drop the std 16 tooth sector in the 16:1 set and use the A&K 19 tooth sector but only if you are sad or pinion meshing is $hit etc.... Just was warning ya about the SHS sr-25 set bearing sector & you will be on 18.65:1 gears so perhaps avoid the urge to buy a shs sr-25 set at any point if gears blow up and sector is ok then replace with 16:1 bevel spur but is only 17.25:1 so very little extra you can't drop in 13:1's coz they don't afik make a 19 tooth 13:1 sector - just regular 18/16:1 19t sectors But yeah the gears are not a must at all - just tweaking gearing - the 16:1 set like a shs dsg is all you can use and as fast as you can go for snap - 16:1 or stick with 18:1 -not much in it tbh, but if bevel busts well a 16:1 set is about your only real go fast/snappier option blah blah blah but no biggy blah x 3 You don't need to go nutz inside the box is what I meaning trigger - well tbh messing about with triggers and reduced pull is a time consuming wank tbh see if you can take up some slack maybe but I'd avoid buying speed triggers that often slip off trolley and then need more f**king about getting them to work tbh I actually like the std ergonomic trigger than the poseur flat trigger - just feels more ergonomic to me but don't waste too much time on it - learn to pull the trigger quicker is the easiest option War & Peace novel again..... yeah avoid going too nutz is my advice
  4. Sitting Duck

    AEG Parts Breakdown

    Fair do's then - just pointing out it is not for everybody yup A&K is the one, G&G use a reg box or a 16 tooth sector in a bigger box for JG ??? WTF - enormous cylinder head on JG taking up the slack plus reg cylinder/sector (rebadged as GunFire's GFC SR-25 - avoid, A&K or CA are your options) not sore about CA or Classic Army - I heard they revised their sr25 a bit but sr25 tappets are like hen's teeth I'd go for A&K too tbh The A&K should come with a strong enough motor - sure it is neodym only said about the AK coz it is an easy dmr project like the selector mod not a fan of them myself, but easy project to test the water with
  5. Sitting Duck

    AEG Parts Breakdown

    TBH just get something with neodym and you will be fine (not high speed - you never really want a high speed crazy mofo - too warm/drains battery) you are gonna drop say a m130 in there so as long as you not got 12:1 gears you will be OK If you drop a m130 in a full AK47 and SHS HT you will be hitting near 27/28rps on a 16 tooth sector you will be OK approaching 27.5rps 11.1v but maybe not on a 19 tooth sector with SHS HT/Balanced 16tpa motor Then on a 19 tooth get the ZCI 22 tpa to avoid risking it on 11.1v if ya worried about a SR25 19 tooth mofo - get a zci 22tpa if you want max snap drop in a 16:1 bevel/spur but use the SR25 sector DON'T buy the SHS SR25 gear set if you can help it it has a bearing on it and you can't fit a delayer to retract nozzle back a smidge more seen some guy on Airsoft Mechanics have a little bit of feed issues with a SHS SR25 set went back to A&K sector with delay/pipe tube to retract tappet a whisker more - sorted (be careful though SR25 tappets are like hens teeth to find easily) now you ain't gonna run it on full auto but just showing the limits n wot not but will get a friggin' snappy DMR 425fps AK47 say with a 400mm barrel bit of volume boost for lifting .30's etc... To lock it to semi - remove the selector plate or part of linkage keeping the trigger bit to keep safe - which is external mechanics on v3 AK but chuck a basic mosfet in there with extra titchy micro switch to fire auto if she locks up That has gotta be the easiest DMR on a budget imho yeah I hate AK's, but mainly coz I dislike the fire select - but who cares if locked to semi ready to fire plus there is the unwritten rule that AK DMR's SVD wannabees MUST have the proper Dragonuv scope on it (oh ffs it's a toy gun chuck on what you like is my opinion & sod the AK rule book) I mean you knock up a cheap AK DMR and give a tweak/tune to get ya started then test the water getting ya feet wet and see if DMR/Sniping is for you Or be bored $hitless missing out on the spray n pray gun ho action Or in my case very frequent visits to respawn
  6. Sitting Duck

    Cutting wire to remove buffer tube.

    There should/might be a tiny join with 2.8mm connectors on the black/red wires if the whole wiring loom won't pass through - you should be able to splice the join and pull apart see the pic - there is short pair of wires out of gearbox then joined to rest of wiring to fuse/battery.... fairly good pic of a Raider btw This is the Swedish-IKEA version, some self assembly may be required edit did say splice the joint but don't wish to give the wrong idea/advice so ensured I changed it to join not joint....
  7. Sitting Duck

    G&G ETU replacement module on the way

    Looks nice, they radius their old stuff for quite a while up front, don't know why radius the back tbh (it cracks up front) Interesting selector arrangement is the ambi fire selector like Krytac/VFC and others use (not fussed tbh as I'm not a lefty) odd twin rear receiver pin holes - probably goes in a bespoke v2 based gun ??? but you missed the biggest G&G innovation.... They are now putting the screws on the right side !!! (well blowbacks had screws on the right side instead of left/underneath) They have thickened the box up a bit too As long as they improve upon stuff going forward but in the electrical side of things mosfets were never G&G's strong point The G&G boxes are easy to work on, cheapo Cyma's are cast and never finished at all friggin' razor sharp edges on a v3 028a box - nasty bastid But G&G's are a nice box to tear down & redo etc.... Just some of their innovations seemed to go one step forward and 1.5 or 2 steps back at times Think they could abolish their grey 18k motor for the blue powerful one as std motor in all Combat Machines Ifrit ain't bad for higher mid range guns Think they have shelved their MARS SYSTEM, a vid that is nearly 5 years old now.... YEAH so glad I wasn't born in France, I can't speak a word of French & ANIMATION of MARS with no tappet plate.... Nah - just make the bastid work if you bring out new stuff bringing out stuff NEW but NOT IMPROVED don't sit well with customer base Oh well we shall wait n see I guess - here's hoping a new 3rd party ETU arrives soon If they start getting their act together - I'll have to find another hobby or something else to moan about
  8. Nahhh not me ( I wish ) but these guys seem to have one in the pipeline due soon-ish.... http://perunairsoft.pl/en/products/gg-etu-upgrade-kit/ A few extra bells n whistles plus shouldn't have the picky battery bollox ANNNNNDDDDDDD ability to turn on/off AB too How reliable is it - I don't f**king know it ain't out yet ffs but can't be no worse that the G&G one Question is, the price I guess at end of the day looks like a straight forward swap out of w @ nked ETU mosfet module hopefully under £40 ~ £50 I reckon, I'd like it lower but any module with bells on ain't cheap If your G&G gets a bit picky, or are worried it will go kaput at some stage well could be a bit of good news on the horizon Oh and G&G - if it's any good you might want to approach these guys and call it you ETU 3 (saw a post on G&G FB that some bloke with the new blue ETU 2 crapped out and needs a replacement so looks like the new 3/5 round burst blue ETU 2 still has issues - way to go G&G) Took them long enough to get this ETU 2 to market - posting on FB just recently... https://mailchi.mp/guay2/gg-upgraded-etu-and-mosfet mods move this as n where it needs to go - maybe news or general heads up (if not too dear I might get one as I got another FFR A2 somewhere untouched still in box to test)
  9. Sitting Duck

    MOSFET for AUG high cycle

    Incredible advice sir Should only need about 2 x 0.5m lengths for most guns unless you are putting a peq box/front wire a SVD or something right to end of the barrel/tripod but always cheaper to buy more for future use/guns Shame FireStorm Systems decide to shut up shop UK company offering mosfets & neodym magnets and carbon cylinders etc..... £10 titchy mosfet with Alpha wire all inc.. AND prewired https://www.instagram.com/firestormsystems/ alas no more
  10. Sitting Duck

    MOSFET for AUG high cycle

    If you have a basic basic mosfet - then it is fine to leave them in a stock the circuit is open - there is no drain on the battery at all coz nothing/zilch/zip is using any power However with bells & whistles mosfets eg programmable stuff like Titan's and others then yesthere is small drain on the battery/LiPo So if you have one of them flash bastid Titan's then you SHOULD remove the battery or it will slowly drain the battery in storage and if drops below 3v the Lipo's cell can take damage (or refuse/difficulty to charge/revive) Soooooooooo The general advise is to remove batteries from guns in storage but as I don't have a mosfet in every gun, and most just have a basic basic mosfet in there I like to live dangerously - even sometimes stepping on cracks in the pavement if I'm feeling bold....
  11. Sitting Duck

    MOSFET for AUG high cycle

    Gate's are decent - pick one according to your requirements (AB or no AB), you space available & your ability Nano ASR is a nice one if you got the room - easy plug/play upgrade/replacement But other makes/models are smaller & will suffice blah blah blah AFAIK - the TM High Cycles have a short stroke sector gear using a slightly higher spring eg: SS 3 teeth, m115 spring so you "should" be OK to hit a 30~35rps though overspin may/will take place DO NOT QUOTE ON THOSE EXACT RPS FIGURES - normally 25rps is pushing a reg std UK gun but a SS gun or High Cycle you can push it some more blah blah blah Final ROF depends on numerous things speed/power of motor & gear ratio plus the juice (7.4v or 11.1v) So I can not say or offer a guarantee that a 11.1v will be OK for all guns in a std spec gun 11.1v will not cause PME if lame motor 18:1 gears etc.... (11.1v producing say 19~20rps) In a beefed up gun on 12:1 gears, very high speed motor, m100 spring even a 7.4v can wreck havoc at 30+ rps (extreme example but demonstrates the enormous differences in some builds & why nothing is set in stone) Hence you test gun establish rof on 7.4v & multiply by about 55% or 1.55 to see the expected rof on 11.1v (to establish if you risk wrecking stuff before you take the pi$$) If only I had understood this myself than thinking: Trust me - I know what I'm doing (SledgeHammer) I think I got him
  12. Sitting Duck

    MOSFET for AUG high cycle

    Something like Gate Pico if space or area is tight.... yup that is a pico soldered direct to deans, anybody who says they have not room for a mosfet is not considering all the options dunno how robust it is but the smallest one atm seems to be TWG's Perun titchy mofo... http://www.taiwangun.com/en/wires-lasers/perun-mosfet-perun?from=listing&campaign-id=19 Don't know how awesome these are: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/mosfets TBH - almost any half decent mosfet will suffice, I very much doubt if your Aug HC is pulling much more than 20amps So is hardly going to fry a decent properly installed bit of soldering on a gun that is shimmed & running correctly etc.... A bit bigger Gate Nano SSR or ASR, can beupgraded easily to the Merf 3.2 or Warfet I'd go with Nano ASR over SSR as it has an electronic fuse (I think, plus it is latest Nano) BUT GATE have just launched their micro mosfet baby.... https://gatee.eu/products/aeg-mosfets/x-asr holy crap - has a fuse too, don't think it is on sale just yet, prewired for noobs too makes it a bit longer of course and ultra sad people won't want more connections (yeah raises hand there on that bit - I'd go all one continous wiring (except to mosfet) but a good innovative product to offer I feel TBH if you canbuy a half decent (not $hite chinese 3034 clone crap) basic mosfet for about £10 to £15 then it isn't worth building your own 3034 these days Doubt if you need an insanely robust mosfet, mosfets have come a long way in the last 5 years or so Most of these listed will be fine for what you need Most mosfets blow due to bad install/shorts or a really really badly horrible shimmed gun ramping up the amps/watts What you need to decide if you need AB does your gun seriously overspin/cycle atm If possible try to see if you can get away not using AB is my gut feeling I know plenty use AB to stop over-spin/cycling but it can increase wear/heat on motor a little from AB So I say if you can get away without AB then a regular mosfet will suffice (plus if you take the pi$$ too much, on a long burst it will still PME no matter what) So AB does NOT save your piston if you REALLY take the pi$$ in the end GATE is a respected name/brand - the Jefftron ones are not quite so robust I have read not got a clue about some other makes - I'm not a guru on mosfet brands tbh I have bought a batch of cheap 3034's so mainly made my own but mosfets have come a long way in the last few years so I'm not up to speed on reviews etc.... just decide if you need AB or not then almost anything decent will do if it fits
  13. Sitting Duck

    DSG Gearbox

    Then whatever you decide that £45 box is a decent option Personally - we all have dreams of building a bespoke gun from scratch that is a hose machine.... Two things: 1 - building a gun from scratch means a lot of potential headache issues to overcome Often an easier/wiser consideration is to take a decent base gun - even a faulty one needing TLC than try to assemble a load of parts that "may" not be 101% fully compatible without "some" modification/adjustment From spending £100's and finding that rail system doesn't like that receiver, feeding issues coz the nozzle is a smidge too long, that STFU pistol grip produces an awful motor angle and sounds like a tin of wasps when firing etc... etc... etc.... So you would have to be very f**king fortunate not to run into "some" issues and if you did you would need to know or learn the hard way about resolving a number of "possible" issues you never imagined I mean it could go without a hitch but in reality - even experienced techs can run into issues on a "from scratch" build So perhaps consider using a decent base gun maybe ???? 2 - The faster it runs - the quicker it breaks is a fairly decent rule of thumb in a like for like world (don't use a slow pile of crap china slap together gun out of the box to a snappy precise custom build) What you will learn most likely is a general rule of thumb for many is that twenties is plenty Sure you can go faster - but it most likely will crap out/fail quicker is what I mean I don't give a f**k what anybody says - like for like the faster you go the probability of failure increases The trick is to find an acceptable balance, which up to around mid 20's is about a good sensible limit UK wise Finally it isn't how fast the gun shoots it is usually how skilled the person using it is sure a good gun helps - but it is the player not the gun's performance that usually wins the game I don't care tbh, I'm just trying to give you a little bit of advice that's all - I was like many on here the exact same Drop a SHS DSG sector in ya gun - it isn't a lot of work tbh - just it will likely fail quicker if you go too nutz I'd lower your dream to a more realistic/practical goal and try not to run before you can walk so to speak
  14. Sitting Duck

    DSG Gearbox

    DSG is over-rated imho first of all DSG's are half stroke so for barrels up to say 250mm of maybe pushing 275 - 300mm if using 9T sector from Seigetek (not cheap) Hence most DSG builds are AK74 or G36c or MP5k or short/stubby M4's BUT..... https://www.socomtactical.net/airsoft-accessories/replacement-and-tune-up-parts/everything-else/gg-firehawk-hc05-replacement-gear-box-dual-sector-gear But before you chuck £100 down the drain - give that to a tech and you will have made a better decision Seriously - do not buy that gearbox, avoid buying the gun itself & perhaps forget DSG-ing your Nuprol Maybe buy this std box.... https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/gearboxes-complete/ec-complete-gearbox-qd-v2-rear and maybe do a few tweaks with a nice motor.... https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/motors-parts/ra-high-torque-motor-long should scrape by without needing a mosfet for a while imho on 7.4v well trigger contacts should last longer than the Nuprol's micro switch contacts I reckon more zest/snap blah blah blah could look to fit 13:1 gears at some point & mosfet perhaps (draws a bit more juice) but reckon that should get you about 18rps on 7.4v on std 18:1 gears I mean you could at some point swap the std sector for a DSG sector but tbh I wouldn't but do-able, though need bushings and a bit more work - but again DSG's are for short/med barrels I'd be tempted to use your gun as it is tbh and not chuck too much money into a Nuprol if you can help it - almost anything is do-able question is: do you it you really need to do it - as it is also avoidable
  15. Sitting Duck

    New AEG not firing

    Well if a tyre explodes (bit drastic using explode), you would likely have driven over a big friggin' nail and if there is massive nail nail sticking out of the tyre I doubt if that would be covered under warranty Also certain extended warranties will not cover certain parts like brake pads, tyres, clutches that will always be prone to wear n tear If you have ever bought an ultra cheapo chinese battery for your mobile etc.... You will quickly realise the capacity say on G36c saying 1100 mah is more like 50% to 75% in real terms Very often those cheapo batteries are severely mislabelled - aka they tell f**king lies Go & buy some cheap 3034 mosfets from fleabay and see how long they last Forgetting the daft analogies a second & back to topic...... Patrol Base don't actually disclaim or refute the battery/warranty as such They state the battery & charger WILL FUNCTION PERFECTLY.... ergo they are to all intentional purposes GUARANTEED So the OP could send it back for replacement Personally I think Patrol Base have f**ked up I would have stated clearly the battery/charger are not covered/guaranteed Even decent Vapex Nimah's lose efficiency and hold charge less & less as they get old Soon as one 1.2v cell starts to go it quickly becomes f**ked So I would have sought to borrow another battery first and tested the gun TBH at some point like Patrol Base say you should get a better battery/charger and quite likely you would make the jump to LiPo anyway imho The dimensions I gave was a JG battery with a 34mm width however there is a plastic end cap at top where wires are situated which is wider - easily 36mm So that LiPo "should" fit quite well -but I'm not offering a 200% guarantee It is the owners responsibility to double check a battery dimensions and factor in a couple of mm's to allow for margin of error or a tiny bit of swelling as well as including extra wires - say LiPo balance lead I'm pretty sure you could a 2500 mah 7.4v in there - maybe squeeze in a 3000mah if you really triple check the sizes Even a 3cell 11.1v can fit but would be a smaller capacity of about 1300mah due to the extra cell The OP is more than welcome to pack it up, ring a courier or shuffle off down the post office.... Wait a week or so, but me personally if the battery is at fault I would be tempted to say $hit happens and go LiPo Even a decent 1600mah Vapex might only last him 3/4 of a day, so that cheapo battery would be lucky to last half day So at some point he would need to buy another battery - and I'd be f**ked if I'd pay £15 for a nimah battery.... https://www.componentshop.co.uk/8-4v-1600mah-2-3a-nimh-mini-battery-pack-3x2-1.html I'd try another battery and/or ring Patrol Base before sending complete gun back but up to OP in the end
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