Jump to content
Airsoft Forums UK

Sitting Duck

Supporters
  • Content count

    4,172
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    69
  • Feedback

    N/A

Sitting Duck last won the day on April 6

Sitting Duck had the most liked content!

4 Followers

About Sitting Duck

  • Rank
    AF-UK Addict

Profile Information

  • Guns
    WAY TOO MANY
    (i need serious help)
  • Loadouts
    Camping with lots of ammo/mags
  • Sites
    Tactical Warfare London/Surrey
  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

13,950 profile views
  1. Semi-auto over-spinning and occasionally burst fires

    Yeah - likely worn Cut Off Lever..... spent 20 mins searching for pic of old/new v2 COL but coz photobucket is w@nk the picture is gone it was a good pic somebody took showing the difference in worn/new the old COL still looks sound - until you put it against a new one The problem is stock COL in many cheapo guns are made from DairyLea alloy This just wears out asap as if you was running a dremmel against it Stock COL's are often non ferrous/non magnetic and file away or wear easily in COL Ideally you want to check COL is ferrous/magnetic to reduce hassle further down the line imho $hit happens and stuff still wears - but alloy type COL's will wear out sooner if you shoot loads on semi The way the COL works like the old fulcrum/lever bollox..... Not doing the maths crap but you have say 0.5mm wear on sector side then trolley loses 1mm or more lift Losing just a smidge of COL will cause poor or late disengagement of trigger trolley etc..... You have worked this out already, but the point is just a moderate bit of wear f*cks it all up A soft alloy COL wears quickly on semi and for the life of me I can't understand why they bother I've recently come to the conclusion that if you intend to use the gun a lot especially on semi Then replacing the COL when teching/upgrading is wise/worthy consideration (you have the bastid in bits anyway so it is false economy imho) At the very least we should check if the COL is magnetic and if not then drop in a SHS COL A lot of cheapo guns have these DairyLea COL's and I have just recently bought some v3 ones (for some future projects I'm looking at doing - stock JG ones are non ferrous/magnetic so they are going) Pretty f*cking annoying I know you gotta tear it apart AGAIN coz of cheapo crappy alloy COL cutting corners etc.... Wish I could find that pic though - bastid photobucket - knew I should have uploaded it to imgur but a worn COL still LOOKS OK but in fact is f*cked in operation
  2. G&G vs Cyma, help comparison!

    G&G box comparison.... stuff like tappet plate goes straight in (no mod req) spring isn't hooked on like many china guns still do 13:1 gears go straight in - mod req on cyma/other re-enforced boxes (I could go on, but cyma is a little qwirky even though it is a tank of a box) G&G box is not perfect - odd screws on wrong side of box plus bronzey bushings will need replacing with steel 12 months later Cyma guns are about £85 - the £75 one was out of stock most are £85-£90 at UK retailers even ordering from TWG, now you pay say £10+ shipping Short raider which OP originally linked to was on offer at £115 at swas I mentioned the clone cm517 which is the clone and a good one at £85 doesn't have the plastic flip sights like most of the cyma M4's have but difference on Short Raider & cm517 at swas was £30 for £30 difference - I'd go with G&G considering/recommendation etc.... Now often at TWG after an order you might get a 10% code (or you used to) That would take the £70 cyma down to £63 many places want £130+ for a Raider 1.0 now THAT difference is a whopping £57 or nearly double !!!! That would pay for many "tweaks" & upgrades so in that case worth a serious consideration It is a tough call no matter if £30 or £60 difference Both guns are good at their own things I like the cyma's and will always sing their praises The G&G's are that little bit more polished or better built If the cyma owner takes a little care the cheapo cyma should last them well MILES superior to most other guns in that sub £100 price bracket A SRC Dragon (bent plastic outer barrel or even slightly higher M4 is like an Allegro/All Agro compared to the Punto/Cyma (so way better choice if funds are really stretched) I gave the OP the heads up on front sight on Raider cast into outer barrel The cyma 517 front sight can be easily removed by two screws underneath (need to remove a pin to get access to 2nd screw but no biggy) two little holes left to be filled but the plastic 517 front sight comes off and outer RIS stays put without losing a support (doesn't need front sight) Overall I really like the 517 tbh, no big white CM logo like on Raider A charging handle that actually drops the dust cover Carbine & Raider 1 has a pull down sprung loaded dust cover (weird) So hop adjustment on the two cheapest G&G's can be a bit fiddly but no biggy The Cyma though is a bit slopped together and often the sliding chrome needs a grease (sometime a light adjustment/bend so that is operates real smoothly & returns every time) Both guns have lame motors - about 27/28tpa The G&G can is better but cyma has a D pinion so easier to extract the pinion without puller but neither is a great keeper of a motor tbh and not worth more than a fiver on fleabay G&G receiver is that bit more durable imho, plus doesn't have them bastid lugs to file off and stuff like sling mount/stock tube are metal so should last even with abuse crane stock the Cyma wins as it has a bit more room 22mm square tubes Vs 19mm on G&G the 517 pistol grip is nice but motor plate is self tapping screws (so after long term use they can strip but larger/longer screw will sort that) But give G&G the slight edge as they use M3 bolts to mount plate to grip Hop/Barrel - Cyma wins on stock barrel but G&G hop is a bit better imho plus G&G's excellent green bucking means G&G wins by a whisker out of box I really like the 517 and got used to their qwirkyness but if you had to pick one to recommend - I'd still say Raider is the safer bet That said I can see me buying another 517 if they are on offer for a little project Can't say I'd buy yet another Raider 1.0 unless it is a spares/repair - deffo not new one (maybe one day I might get a Raider 2.0 275mm gun but I'm trying to go easy now) For a new player starting out - it is a close call but still gotta say G&G Raider £115/£120 is a good buy
  3. G&G vs Cyma, help comparison!

    Raider 1.0 Long/Short as I said 357/233 barrel.... http://www.guay2.com/en/product/detail-25 & http://www.guay2.com/en/product/detail-23 The CM517 comes in the middle of gun @ 297/300mm The nice CM18 comes in about 275mm and just my preference but about a 300 barrel is a nice mid size gun not too long for CQB & not too short either plus other options like Short Stroking (on a 360 & deffo on 400/455mm you haven't got that much to SS with but ignore this crap tbh) So no medium Raider 1.0 which I was referring to & where the clone CM517 comes in between The CM517 by default comes in hot at about 390/400 fps from China/Poland So ensure you get a downgraded Cyma from a reputable retailer - not a hot China/US spec gun (The hot 395fps gun I SS 3 teeth, removed spacer and got a 340fps gun on original spring with good seals just for poops & giggles with other tweaks n bits n bobs) Now the Raider 2.0 is quite new and has sold out in initial batches Not only are there two lengths Short = 275 & Long 357mm http://www.guay2.com/en/product/detail-1784 & http://www.guay2.com/en/product/detail-1785 BUT there is the option of regular G&G trigger switch plus option of possible iffy electronic switch - ETU models/option But there has been batches of iffy ETU guns that play up/need ETU/mosfet replacing Some of G&G's electronics/R&D/innovations are more like a Mini Metro than a Mini (BMW) So G&G ETU's do a bit of a reputation of being a possible lottery LiPo - 7.4v actually come off charge at up to 8.4v So a 7.4v LiPo is same as 8.4v nimah (even nimah's come off charge a bit higher than spec) Actually a very good 7.4v both in capacity (2500mah +) & burst 25c/30c will match close to 9.6v There are LiFe 9.9v batteries but tbh imho they are not worth it but some use them (LiFe's in airsoft are limited range/size/selection/stockists and cost a bit more and different charge settings) My own take is that when a LiFe is used in a tweaked gun they offer no real boost/snap over a 25c 7.4v LiPo I don't feel LiFe's have the exact same raw grunt as a decent LiPo, they might be ok for a stock gun But when you start pushing stuff the LiFe doesn't have the same zest or punch as the LiPo 11.1v lipo's are available but long term use will most likely require a mosfet 11.1v are 3 cells x 3.7v and offer 50% more speed well imho a 11.1v will offer a bit more than 50% as gun is already cycling I'd say like for like a 11.1v will boost by say 55% to 60% over the exact same 7.4v (loads of videos on YouTube will back this up (usually) but I'm not getting another debate - it's 55% aprox imho) If you use a 11.1v without mosfet you risk long term burning out trigger contacts from arcing at switch These/most stock guns are pretty lame - about 12/13rps out of box on 7.4v aprox Whack in 11.1v you get near 20rps which is quite nice but over time your contacts could arc out But all this stuff you will understand a bit more as time goes on But you did ask - so I replied as concise as possible (well for me anyway) If people ask what we recommend then we will respond with a tried & tested answer The G&G Raider 1.0 is a better gun for about £30 more - no question The Cyma CM517 is a much cheapo gun - but about best sub £100 M4 out there I'm not getting sued or my ar$ed chewed off if I say get a Cyma and bits break off with abuse or the owner says this is much worse than my mate's G&G etc.... (well it isn't that bad, but the Punto vs Fiesta/Corsa is a fair comparison I'd say) Now opinions are like ar$eholes at the end of the day - everyone has got one but in GENERAL we offer sound advice and just generally say - G&G over Cyma is my answer But if you are strapped get the CM517 - it will be miles better than your crappy lame Cyma 022
  4. G&G vs Cyma, help comparison!

    Cheapest Raider I know of: https://swasairsoft.co.uk/airsoft-guns/gg-combat-machine-aeg-cm16-raider There are two versions Short 233mm barrel & the Long version 357mm barrel - or there abouts https://swasairsoft.co.uk/airsoft-guns/gg-combat-machine-aeg-cm16-raider-l-2 Wish they made a medium Raider However the Cyma clone of the Raider is the CM517 with a 300mm barrel https://swasairsoft.co.uk/airsoft-guns/cyma-cqb-m4-cm517-combat-machine-raider-black-aeg-2 If you can afford a G&G Raider or even the new revised Raider 2.0 (alas Raider 2.0 is out of stock at swas) https://swasairsoft.co.uk/airsoft-guns/gg-combat-machine-aeg-raider-20-2 The G&G Raider is miles better - the receiver is about the best polymer receiver on any starter gun It has a slight flex as opposed to harder/brittle plastic receivers which would crack easily under abuse (especially in colder weather or dropping on hard surfaces/ground/colliding with trees etc....) Gearbox - G&G is much nicer to work on The cyma gearbox is a bit qwirky, but ok and once you get past that qwirkyness the cyma box is a tank (a bit of a cheapo tank tbh but still a f*cking tank) See here for a bit of a run down on stuff.... Now, I still rate the G&G unless you are really on a tight as f*ck budget The extra money for the G&G is well worth it imho Cyma has plastic mag catch, plastic stock tube, the flash hider though its a ccw the flash id just pushed on and if you get a cyma with with flip sights - they are plastic too (don't blame me if when you flip them up/down one day they just snap off) The CM517 doesn't have flip sights, and the front sight can be easily removed (Raider has the front sight cast into outer barrel though looks like it can be removed - it can't) Now cheapo cyma does come with a lame ar$e battery charger to get you started G&G like most guns do not come with battery/charger You will end up most likely going down the LiPo route (don't bother with nimah type batteries - well maybe 9.6v but most people run LiPo say 7.4v) As for recommendation - G&G, it is just a safer bet to go with is the honest truth You do get what you pay for and at £115 for a Short Raider it is money well spent The cyma 517 is ok if funds are really really tight, but it is a bit of a cheapy gun Like a buying your first car.... You can get a Fiat Punto 1.2 if you are strapped Or if can afford a bit more buy a Fiesta 1.2 or Corsa End of the day - it is your money, your decision etc..... imho the £30 extra for a Raider is worth it, but up to you
  5. Basic Question! (?) - Battery Charger

    psssst - threw me also, most have 2 cell & 3 cell outlet on B3 chargers a small WTF entered my head too - so we both learned something too
  6. Basic Question! (?) - Battery Charger

    7.4v LiPo charging https://vapex.pl/en/700ma-balance-charger-for-1s-3s-3-7v-7-4v-11-1v-lipo-and-lifepo4-batteries-vapex.html (they got the pics for 3.7v & 7.4v back to front but you get the idea) Still say you should have got a B6 type - much faster mofo charger but these B3 type are (almost) idiot proof and charges through balance lead (slower) So these B3 types just work without deans/tamiya/xt60 or whatever adapters on B6 etc...
  7. Hi sir & welcome.... F*ck me, that 022 is a plastic gearbox kiddy gun from JBBG or something Well you would be hard pushed to compete at skirmish level tbh Should have grabbed either a Cyma 5xx M4 or AK - best bang for buck under £100 Or a Raider is a good gun for £120 at SWAS Airsoft Alas like many - myself included you probably stumbled across this place AFTER you bought your first gun - yeah we often learn the hard way..... Your 022 is just a kiddy plinker for shooting in back garden Stay away from sites with " BB " in their names JustBBGuns, BBGun4Less, OnlyBBGuns etc..... (well Only are not as bad as first two, but you need to know what you are buying) SWAS Airsoft & PatrolBase do the Cyma's - decent starter ones & Raider plus others Read through some guides - two good ones are in my sig written by very wise mofo's Have a read up, welcome to the toy gun forum for big kids who never grow up
  8. Brands that don't often get a mention

    Price, stock availability, personal experiences/reviews etc..... UK - G&G's are very popular and on the whole the prices are pretty good (see GunFire's pricing of G&G's, we do OK in UK for G&G's) A retailer will know that "everybody has one" Combat Machine will sell An ARX160, R85, Galil, SCAR may not ship asap and likely carry a higher price than CM16 or Cyma AK or JG G36c etc.... So retailers will stock what stuff shifts easily - supply & demand etc.... Straight forward stuff sells, easy/cheap to service/maintain/upgrade/parts to hand Maybe also coz we get asked what to buy & we usually go with the "safer bets/choices" Stuff that doesn't cost the earth for new players, should work ok for a while and last a bit Some stuff is seriously overpriced/over rated and most will tell you the truths No dressing stuff up, no sponsorship on here - if we think something is $hit we will say it And at the end of the day - they are just poxy toy guns for big kids
  9. Feeding issues

    NOT A COMPLETE DIAGNOSIS BUT A STAB AT NUMEROUS BITS OF CRAP did you install THIS nuprol gear set..... WTF do people deviate from reg gears I'll never know A bloke had a SR25 feed issue problem using SHS 25 gears with bollox bearing on sector I'll suggest the same to you as I did him.... put on the old sector gear - then you can slightly increase tappet retraction delay etc... your 16:1 set will use the same sector gear as a std 18:1 G&G set - or it should You should have used say a SHS tappet checking it doesn't retract too much hitting the cylinder head SHS tappets retract a whisker more but "can" bottom out on "some" builds I presume the Nuprol nozzle like motor is a rebrand of the SHS red M4 nozzle 21.45mm It is sound but said numerous times V2's tappet/nozzle window to feed/chamber/seal is less than v3's So everything has to be very close to exact precision If the bearing is not fully retracting like a delayed reg sector - that is one issue If nozzle is too long (doubt it your case but you never know) you get feed issues If nozzle is too short you feed lovely but $hit fps as it doesn't fully seal at bucking (the lips not seal fully allow lips to blow - drop in fps) Hop unit/bucking.... the lips can get tight/pinched as restrict a bb passing through to nub way you check this by dropping a bb into hop and with an allen key/nail/screwdriver/jam rod push the bb through - it should be very light moderate only to pop the bb through the lips Some buckings in some hops can be tight fit and pinch/distort the lips that impedes/restricts bb chambering see here - way ott but somewhere is shows what I'm on about.... Now if we assume the lips are fine and hop is cool let's try an experiment..... see if you can make a 0.5mm to 1.0 washer/gasket with ID about 10.5mm Place that over the mouth of the hop unit where it enters the gearbox and refit What you have done is shimmed the hop forward - can't go nutz coz mags won't clip into feedtube but a light shim on the hop unit shifting it forward make it from anything but just shim the hop a smidge forward Very likely the fps will drop due to nozzle sealing on lips (now 0.5mm further away) but don't worry about that a sec - just see if it feeds) Now try to feed/fire bb's - does it feed better ???? If so the tappet window is out of whack, the nozzle is not clearing enough on full retraction if nozzle clears the feed tube by 5.95mm - you are going to struggle to feed a 5.95 bb everytime (Ideally about 6.5mm) Feeding double feeding and other bollox rarely does a gun double fire but often tight bucking lips or other jams is the culprit the bb doesn't chamber properly/gets stuck then another bb chambers and both exit the gun OMG - it's double firing - it isn't, it is misfeeding/mis-chambering is often the correct term eg: 1 - 1 - 1 - 0 - 2 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 0 - 2 - 1 etc....... Just saying often people start tearing into stuff without clarifying where the main problem is As said this is NOT a full diagnosis of your gun problem but more a collection of suggestions You need to investigate further and try to self diagnose where the main problem(s) are not gonna repeat stuff but mention about tappet window crap here: Now you don't need the shave/mod the SHS tappet in G&G like a Cyma box but explains a bit of what I mean about tighter tolerances in v2's and where this "tappet window" sits you have little leeway but need to retract enough to feed but still return correctly to seal at bucking lips It might come to using old G&G sector gear and a delayer perhaps - don't like them bearing sectors best of luck - probably mega confused you also but chucking my 2 cents (more like 50 bucks, but hey ho on the word count)
  10. SRC-GC-104 (M9)

    You need to use GOOD CO2 cartridges ones with a slight concave not flat top CO2 carts - those never seal You pop in the bulb and start winding, it starts to puncture - KEEP WINDING If you have use decent bulbs it will seal very quickly and you are sorted If you have used $HIT bulbs you keep winding and the mag wrecks itself So buy DECENT make CO2 bulbs How do I know - coz I have wrecked a mag on cheapo bulbs But no biggy, coz CO2 is too powerful anyway for skirmishes most places use Green Gas so luckily you can obtain a GG mag and pop it in http://www.taiwangun.com/en/gas-pistol-magazines/st92f-nbb-magazine-stti?from=listing&campaign-id=19 or https://gun-fire.co.uk/product-eng-1152191266-Gaz-magazine-for-Baretta-pistol.html (read review - guy buys co2 version fits this gg mag in there) https://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152215520-20rds-gas-magazine-for-GG105-pistol-replica.html It is the same bloody mag afaik in 104 & 105 but they SRC/STTi/HFC did revise some guns recently GG104M is the Green Gas mag GC = CO2 OR GG = Green Gas - simples That is the only difference between usual 104/105 green/co2 the 105 has a small rail underneath, the 104 does not (or the other way round - but same gun, or it WAS) Green Gas mags do leak a little bit over a week but well usable for people on a budget At that price, gun goes crap - scrap it, buy a new one with a GG mag type of thing Sod the Co2 & poxy bulb bollox imho
  11. Spartac AR Platform

    Mag should come as std the 3rd pic shows what's in the box.... If they are shipping gun less mag then that is sneaky but G&G's come with mag and small bag of decent G&G bb's
  12. Spartac AR Platform

    Personally think the cm517 is better but just my opinion Be careful where you buy it from, imported they come in at 390-400fps so too hot to use at UK sites at that spec Decent retailer will downgrade it to 330-340fps but others may not Buy a hot gun you can't use and you will need to spend time/money downgrading it you can get a G&G Raider for £120 which is damn good price: https://swasairsoft.co.uk/airsoft-guns/gg-combat-machine-aeg-cm16-raider OK need battery/charger but tbh G&G is superior for a small increase if you can afford it Cyma's are best cheapo M4 under £100 but best advice is get a cheap G&G if you can afford it G&G's hold their money, easier to shift, easier to work on etc.... Cyma's are OK - but a bit qwirky and you see where corners were cut with more plastic (stock tube, mag catch, magazine etc.....) Up to you, but just giving you the heads up & why buy a cyma if you intend to buy a G&G later
  13. Does an IF (Imitation Firearm) become a RIF with add-ons?

    gun = gun accessories = accessories IF into RIF - play in the dark, real dark pitch black Epsom Tunnels, C&A at the Mall
  14. Galaxy MP5K trigger not returning consistently

    Careful, that is exactly how many of us got started
  15. gunfire.pl and gun-fire.co.uk ?

    Novelty or the image/look/effect ???
×