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    AF-UK Starter

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  • Guns
    TM P90RD, HK416A5, HK416A5 GBBR, AA L85, ICS MP5A5, AKS74U, WE M&P9, WE G17 Gen5, +others
  • Loadouts
    P90RD or HK416A5 + M&P, Concamo
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    UWG Fawkham
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  1. Ad_


    I used to have a G&G SUSAT and it had exactly same problem - no amount of adjustment could compensate for how far off that was pointing either. I opened it up and tried to fix it but only had limited success - I did manage to get it pointing straight enough to be able to align it with where the rifle was shooting, but only with a compromised sight picture. Internally its build quality was *bad*. Prior to that I had tried a STAR SUSAT and that was pretty useless as an aiming device too as the reticle would rotate around inside the sight if it was subjected to any significant vib
  2. Looks like the Olight M2R Warrior is poorly designed in that respect at least... still, the maximum current that 18650s are rated for is typically in the 3-5A range, and I doubt it would be pushing that much current through saliva (you'd definitely feel a lot more than a mere stinging if it did). Anyway, the light the man had was an Olight T20 which does not have any kind of built-in charging functionality, the back of it has a standard forward clicky switch with a rubber boot covering it so there are no exposed contacts & it's rated waterproof to IPX-8, so it's unlikely that a
  3. The cells mentioned are non-rechargeables so it's unlikely to be anything to do with USB charging. Plus CR123As would be much more likely to just explode mid-charge if you were to try recharging them anyway. I'd guess design flaw is also unlikely, as the light exploded in his mouth it was probably working normally (or at least appearing to) up to that point. Modern lights tend to draw a lot of current on high output modes though so it's quite possible the batteries were being overloaded. I'd recommend avoiding anything that uses multiple cells in series as tha
  4. As I said, the most likely scenarios are: - One battery discharged more rapidly than the other and subsequently became reverse charged (maybe they weren't balanced in the first place due to manufacturing issues, maybe heat from the light caused the first to discharge more rapidly, or maybe he mixed used cells or different brands?) - Too much current was being drawn from the cells and caused them to get angry Once they go up, they're in a sealed tube so you effectively have a pipe bomb at that point.
  5. AFAIK that's how all red dot sights work... the difference between cheaper & more expensive ones is generally the quality of parts/materials (especially the glass - cheaper ones often have a noticeable blue tint to them and/or significantly darken the sight picture) and the overall build quality in general. In my experience the EOTech clone red dot sights are worse than normal red dots & I wouldn't consider buying one again; the ones I've seen all appear to have the LED positioned towards the front of the unit projecting the reticle on to the rear lens which then reflects i
  6. It couldn't as the light would have been sealed, but even if it did somehow get into the light it's unlikely that it would have low enough resistance to cause major problems.
  7. It's not an Olight-specific issue but an issue with lithum batteries in general. I think a lot of people just don't understand or underestimate the risks of lithium batteries if they aren't used properly/aren't used with sufficient caution or they use cheap or counterfeit cells. Also in addition to the explosion risk, some lithium cells have the potential to produce hydrofluoric acid if they go up in flames, which is something you *really* do not want to breathe in (or have any contact with at all really). https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?107-Smoke-and-Fire-Hot
  8. I tested a few more brands of bio BB recently. Same caveats with limitations in equipment & methods apply as before: Tokyo Marui 'Perfect Hit' Bio 0.20g: These are quite pricey at £6 for 1600. The .25s weren't in stock when I ordered these so I didn't get any to test, but those are way more expensive at £11 for only 1300 BBs! They come in a sealed, vacuum-packed bag with some silica gel thrown in to protect them from humidity. Unfortunately I found a few in the pack with some surface defects. They weren't very big or deep & probably aren't rough enough to c
  9. Well if someone's going to be replacing the trigger contacts and putting in some 16awg they'll need to be set up for soldering anyway... might as well put in a MOSFET too while they're at it
  10. With NiMH constant current is supplied as long as the battery voltage increases, and charging stops when the voltage begins to drop. This drop is quite small & can be very tricky to detect though, so many chargers also include failsafes such as a voltage based cutoff, timer based cutoff, and/or temperature cutoff. LiPo uses the normal CC/CV charge algorithm as per other Li-Ion chemistries - provide constant current for the first stage, up to the full charge voltage (4.20V in this case), then maintain constant voltage while decreasing the current supplied until it drops off belo
  11. That depends on the size/capacity of the battery and how much you shoot. I'd recommend getting at least a couple of batteries anyway & swapping them half way through the day, that way you're much less likely to ruin them by accidentally over-discharging (you might also want to consider getting a low battery alarm to help prevent this happening) and you have a spare in case there's a problem with one of them.
  12. I use both types for different guns. LiPo batteries offer a lot of benefits over NiMH, being much lighter (and typically much smaller than similar capacity NiMH packs), having better capacity and negligible self-discharge, but they require a lot more care to be taken with their use and storage and the charging process is more complex and "risky" (there's a reason why fireproof LiPo charge bags are a thing). If they're abused in any way (e.g. over-charging, attempting to recharge after over-discharging, using them without doing a balance charge, piercing or otherwise physically dama
  13. Can't comment on the HK416D but I recently got an HK416A5. I had heard the horror stories so I went into it being prepared to overhaul it internally if necessary, but it was actually pretty decent for the most part. That said I did find a couple of things that can't really be excused, although they weren't a bother to me personally as I had expected to swap the affected parts out anyway as part of fine-tuning it. These were my initial observations: The look & feel is the best on any AEG I've held, let down only by the "licensed trademark..." and "Cal. 6mm BB" markings,
  14. I had to get some buffer tube lipos recently for my HK416A5; these are the ones I got & they fit nicely: https://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-1300mah-25c-continuous-discharge-lipo-battery-101mm-long.html
  15. When my TM M9 mags started to leak I tried various things to recover the O-rings but ended up just replacing them. I can't remember what size I used though - I have a set of O-rings and just picked out a size that was about the same as the original and it worked fine. Lees Precision does a rebuild kit that includes base plate O-rings though: https://www.leesprecision.com/magazine-repair-kits-o-rings/magazine-rebuild-kits/rebuild-kit-for-tokyo-marui-mp9-magazines I would also recommend running some maintenance gas or so through the mags every so often & leaving them filled with
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