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Ad_

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    AF-UK Starter

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  • Guns
    TM P90RD, HK416 A5, AA L85, ICS MP5A5, AKS74U, WE M&P9, WE G17 Gen5, +others
  • Loadouts
    P90RD + M&P, Cadpat
  • Sites
    UWG Fawkham
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    Male

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  1. Can't comment on the HK416D but I recently got an HK416A5. I had heard the horror stories so I went into it being prepared to overhaul it internally if necessary, but it was actually pretty decent for the most part. That said I did find a couple of things that can't really be excused, although they weren't a bother to me personally as I had expected to swap the affected parts out anyway as part of fine-tuning it. These were my initial observations: The look & feel is the best on any AEG I've held, let down only by the "licensed trademark..." and "Cal. 6mm BB" markings, although at least the latter is discreetly positioned (small text inside the trigger guard) - it would be so much better if these were just stickers you could easily peel off though. Exterior finish is excellent and seems quite hard wearing, weight is good and the upper & lower recievers fit together with barely any gap and no wobble - it feels very solid. The right side selector is a bit loose, which is slightly disappointing but AFAIK a common issue with this kind of ambidextrous selector design. Stock was very stiff at first but has started to slide more smoothly with use. While it is recommended to use a LiPo battery, when it arrived I didn't have any LiPo packs that would fit (the battery fits into the buffer tube). I did have an 8.4v NiMH stick battery though and found that it works just fine and will fit as long as the stock is extended a few places. The battery connector is unfortunately a mini-Tamiya type. ~311fps out of the box, no idea about accuracy as I couldn't test that at the time & didn't want to delay my work on the internals for it. Once I was satisfied that there weren't any obvious issues with it I started with the warranty voiding. First I looked at the barrel/hop setup as that's easiest to get at. The inner barrel is brass, 285mm long and AFAIK 6.03mm; it was *filthy* but looks decent enough and performed very well when I tested with it after fine-tuning everything. Hop unit is a plastic rotary style unit & seems decent enough. The stock hop nub is a hard plastic cylinder. The stock hop rubber doesn't seem all that good and had a couple of blobs around the feed lips that would compromise the airseal. While the barrel and hop unit itself are ok, the stock hob rubber and nub were pretty poor TBH. Just swapping the stock hop rubber out for a Maple Leaf Macaron with Omega nub increased the power by about 10fps and probably made it far more accurate as well. My original plan after doing the barrel assembly was to just throw in a Guarder SP90 spring and see how well it did before doing anything else, as the gearbox has a quick change spring system that's supposed to allow the spring to be changed through the stock tube. Videos and posts about this show that it can be done by removing the stock, unscrewing the buffer tube cap and then releasing the spring guide assembly by pressing in and rotating the back of it 90 degrees CCW using a hex driver. On mine turning the screw to remove the cap removed the both the cap and spring guide assembly. On further inspection this was because an O-ring had been put over the screw & squashed between the buffer tube cap and the back of the spring guide, and since they're both turned in the same direction to release & you need to keep some pressure applied to turn philips head screws it ended up releasing the spring guide. Unfortunately I was unable to swap the spring out though as it was attached to the piston, so I had to take out the gearbox anyway. Inside the gearbox: As expected, I had to disassemble the piston to remove the spring. I found a metal shaving on the piston O-ring 😕 Nozzle is an air seal type, looks fine Cylinder is aluminium, seems adequate Cylinder head is plastic Piston is plastic (half of the teeth are metal) Piston head is aluminium - I believe this is where the metal shaving on the O-ring came from as the edges inside some of the ports are a little rough & I was able to remove some more shavings from them. Gears look decent. Gearbox uses 8mm bearings, they look fine. The stock shimming and motor height adjustment was good. The application of grease seemed a little thin & it felt more oily than greasy. I didn't pay much attention to the MOSFET & all I can say about that is it seems basic but appears to work well enough. The motor feels highish torque; the magnets seem fairly strong and it's much harder to turn by hand than the "standard" motors that are in my other guns. It sounds a bit whiny though so I might replace it at some point. The only parts that I feel really needed to be swapped out are the hop rubber & nub, plus maybe the spring depending on the desired power level. The rest is fine with just a clean & regrease at most. I wanted it to be somewhere around 330-340 though so I also replaced the stock cylinder with a Guarder chromed cylinder, the piston head was replaced with a Lees Precision aluminium piston head (I reused the stock piston O-ring though - I find the LPE piston O-rings tend to be a bit tight fitting & give lower fps) and I regreased the gearbox using Abbey LT2 and TechT Gun Sav. I also replaced the mini-Tamiya connector with a Deans connector. With this work done it now performs how I want it - using the stock spring the power rose to a little under 330fps; with a Guarder SP90 spring it does a bit over 330fps. So mine seemed decent enough for the most part (aside from that dodgy hop rubber and piston head), but I can't say if they've improved things recently or I was just lucky, so YMMV.
  2. I had to get some buffer tube lipos recently for my HK416A5; these are the ones I got & they fit nicely: https://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-1300mah-25c-continuous-discharge-lipo-battery-101mm-long.html
  3. When my TM M9 mags started to leak I tried various things to recover the O-rings but ended up just replacing them. I can't remember what size I used though - I have a set of O-rings and just picked out a size that was about the same as the original and it worked fine. Lees Precision does a rebuild kit that includes base plate O-rings though: https://www.leesprecision.com/magazine-repair-kits-o-rings/magazine-rebuild-kits/rebuild-kit-for-tokyo-marui-mp9-magazines I would also recommend running some maintenance gas or so through the mags every so often & leaving them filled with a little maintenance gas if they aren't going to be used for a while, to keep the seals in good condition - especially when using sniper gas/propane/CO2 and other such "dry" gases that don't have any silicone oil mixed in.
  4. Why not simply replace the leaky O-rings with new ones?
  5. Yet another case of politicians legislating against something from a position of wilful ignorance to try to make themselves look good 😕 GHK, WE, KWA, VFC & KJW are all Taiwanese manufacturers, and many aftermarket parts are developed & made by Taiwanese companies...
  6. That will eventually happen when the cutoff lever has worn down to the point that it can no longer release the trigger contacts after firing - none of these mods to restrict it to semi-auto only will help when that happens and the only way to fix it would be to install a new cutoff lever. Get a good quality P90 (I would expect the cheap versions to fail a lot sooner rather than later) and keep it well maintained and it shouldn't be a problem for a long time.
  7. Yes, if it's not installed or not in the right place the nozzle won't return as it should
  8. That looks a lot like a nozzle return spring. Here's the exploded diagram for the CZ Shadow 2 - looks like it is the nozzle return spring (part 92)
  9. There are two sets of contacts; one that gets disconnected by the cutoff lever after firing and another set further back that are used for full auto fire. When you fire the P90, a half-pull of the trigger only engages the first set of contacts so it only fires a single shot. Pulling the trigger completely engages the second set of contacts so it continues firing. The fire selector simply blocks the trigger from being pulled back completely when it's set to semi auto mode.
  10. You could try modifying the selector to prevent full auto from being selected, or you could modify the trigger assembly to disconnect or remove the full auto contacts. I'd strongly recommend fitting a MOSFET to protect the trigger contacts at least.
  11. Much of the shot-to-shot variation seems to be due to weight/size/shape varying from BB to BB.
  12. That looks like it would probably produce results similar to Super Lube - https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/grease/super-lube-lubrication-grease-5ml-syringe I don't think it's likely to change that much though, but I'll have to test them more. The previous grease setup I used didn't vary much from the initial application up until I cleaned it out earlier
  13. The Gun Sav does feel much lighter/thinner and more slippery between my fingers, whereas the Super Lube feels more like other silicone greases... but as the results show it's more complicated than just how it feels I cleaned out & regreased my P90RD's gearbox earlier as it hasn't been done for a long time (at least a couple of years & it's fired many tens of thousands of shots in that time). Before starting I tested it with unsorted BioSphere 0.2g BBs: 336.9 336.1 338.9 336.8 336.6 336.8 337 338.5 335.4 334.1 Min 334.1 Max 338.9 Avg 336.71 It was very difficult to pick between Gun Sav and Super Lube, but I went with Gun Sav. After everything was cleaned up & regreased I tested it again: 329.8 330.7 331.8 331.2 329.4 332.9 328.9 331.8 332.2 331.9 Min 328.9 Max 332.9 Avg 331.06 So with the TechT Gun Sav I actually lost a bit of power compared to the old grease. I then took it apart again, cleaned, regreased and re-tested with Super Lube: 323.9 325.9 325.9 326.8 326.6 325.6 324.2 326.2 325.1 323.3 Min 323.3 Max 326.8 Avg 325.35 More power loss... This will require more investigation. It may just be that these greases just need time to settle in, although my previous setup didn't require that. I'll get some more Marui grease so I can retry the previous setup (Systema grease applied to the cylinder with Marui silicone grease on the piston) and I'll also try mixing Super Lube + Gun Sav in a similar manner.
  14. Yes, you were I didn't do any kind of extended/long term tests; these were all done yesterday except for the Gun Sav which was tested today.
  15. I weighed a bunch of the BioSphere BBs and filtered out any that seemed to be under/overweight, or the scales seemed "uncertain" about (i.e. borderline), then fired another 10 through the chrono. It has narrowed it down a bit: 321.8 321.3 323 321.9 321.9 319.8 321.8 320.6 320.3 322.3 Min 319.8 Max 323 Avg 321.47 If I had better scales I could probably narrow it down further. Variation in diameter around each BB will also make a difference.
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