Speedbird_666

I play mostly CQB - so hop rubber choice is not as critical for me - I tend to to use the stock ICS hop rubbers on my indoor guns. My only 'outdoor' gun uses a Maple Leaf Macron with an Omega-style nub, but the lips have to be very slightly cut down otherwise there will be feed issues with ICS hop units (plastic and metal) - if you can see the rubber looking down the hop unit from the magwell, you will need to trim it. IMO upgraded rubber/nubs don't make huge difference like you would see on some other brands, my ICS guns are decently accurate enough with their stock setup - it's just that the plastic unit is crap for longevity and break very easily. The metal unit is a simpler, better design that works very well. Never touched a Maxx unit so can't comment on that.

I have 5 ICS M4s. I have upgraded most of them with ICS' own metal unit (MA-215). Fire-Support regularly restock these with every shipment that they bring in from ICS. Give them a call - they will tell you when their next shipment is due. The only other 'drop-in' unit otherwise is the Maxx M4Ei or M4Gi, which are ICS specific versions of their hop unit. Some users report good results with the Maxx units, however others do not, so YMMV.

Looks alright to me.

Oh my god it's awful. I can't find anything anywhere as easily as the old website. And my wish list was huge - I would frequently use it to list parts for projects, ordering when budget allowed.

When you say random drop - is it a case of '290, 290, 230, 290 etc' on the chrono, or are ALL shots now in the 230 range? It's an important distinction with different causes and solutions.

I would get an E&C shell. It's QD and from the same manufacturer, so should be a drop-in fit for the receiver. As an owner of many ICS M4s with split gearboxes - it's a nice feature to have - IF the gun was designed from the outset for it. However, it's certainly not a strong enough feature to justify spending a big chunk of cash on a mere gearbox casing.

Looks like a fairly standard receiver extension from this disassembly video: You will need a Buffer tube and sling plate. The buffer tube, obviously, to mount your stock. The sling plate to cover the big hole that the wires are sticking out of. If you can find Specna Edge denoted spares - great, should be a drop-in fit. Other brands will likely fit fine, but airsoft 'tolerances' being as they are (i.e lacking thereof), you might find yourself either filing the inside of the buffer tube if too tight on the extension anti-rotation fins, or shimming with bits of a coke can if too loose. I have experienced both.

SHS High Torque/M100 Spring/7.4V LiPo. Lasted one game day before the error LEDs went into christmas tree mode with gun stopping every half dozen shots. It was an Early Edge model though, with an early production X-ASR. But I wouldn't trust the V1s for reliability. At least they are plug'n'play meaning that V2 could be dropped-in easily.

I would put money on it that the X-ASR will shit itself with a motor that pulls any more amps than the stock one. Allegedly the X-ASR V2 has resolved the issue - at the expense of removing the reverse polarity protection that was present in the V1.

It's V2 based - but with extra hardware for the ambi controls and a proprietary selector plate. Nozzle length might be specific to the SCAR, don't know for sure, you would need to measure the existing one. IIRC it is OEM'd by CYMA - the shell looks like one in this video. Given airsoft 'standards' (or the lack hereof) who knows if a G&G shell fits/functions in the gun. You'll have to try it to find out. Could the existing holes not be re-tapped for a larger thread?

Paid with PayPal? Raise a dispute. That should get his attention.

PLA+ worked fine. Like @Shamal says - they won't last forever, but given that they only take half an hour to print, it's not the end of the world if you break one. I was tempted to get a batch made up in in SLS Nylon and flog a few - but never bothered in the end as I jettisoned the Edge series gun I had.

I designed a 3D printed version that @Shamal was referring to. I've attached the STL file in case it's any use to anyone (for personal use only!). Only takes ~30mins to print - place on the bed at 45deg with supports. CHandle v9.stl

A long soak in Isopropyl Alcohol should help get rid of a lot of the paint. Shouldn't harm the plastic. My son's ebay-bought used Warhammer models have been left to soak for days with no ill effects. Back in the day - Fairy Power spray was awesome for removing krylon. Then they changed the recipe...😒 But that MP5 looks cool painted as-is. Black guns are boring anyway....