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  1. 34 points
    We get a lot of people coming along who want to know what's best to get when starting out. For those of us who have been around for a while, it's sometimes difficult to avoid being sarcastic, due to the ubiquity of certain misapprehensions and bad ideas. To avoid repetition then, my two pen'orth is that, in this order, you should: Read the Relevant Legal Information: Violent Crime Reduction Act, as it relates to us, here. Buy Boots. If you are young I'd guess you're used to wearing trainers. You need boots that support your ankles so that you can trip over or step in a hole while you're running and not break / badly sprain an ankle. They also need soles tough enough to withstand woodland debris / urban rubble. German Para Boots or British Assault Boots are you're best bet, but your feet will be too soft to wear them, unless you get some and go for long walks in 'em to toughen up, and even then you'll want to use tape to prevent blisters if you only wear them a couple of times a month. Magnum Panther 8's should be ok for your feet and tough enough for most airsoft sites, but bear in mind that they are water resistant, not waterproof like most Military Surplus boots. You can get some great deals by visiting military surplus shops in person too. These days it's also possible to get surplus British Army Issue Lowa desert boots for about £35-40 posted from eBay surplus sellers and even surplus Grade 2 (beat up but usable) Altbergs are coming down in price. Buy Mesh Eye Protection & Lower Face Mask. There are a number of issues involved, but suffice it to say that polycarbonate lenses often fog up, so a full face mask like this provides the best average between safety & see-through-ability. However wearing one of those means you can't get anything in your mouth without compromising eye safety and causing site marshals to go nuts at you. Hero Shark are currently one of your best bets for eyes, but the website is down so I dunno where you can get them (see below), otherwise get interwoven mesh like these or for those who don't trust Chinese suppliers, these. For lower face, to prevent you losing teeth and/or getting permanently scarred, get a New Version Strike mask in whatever colour suits your loadout best from KH Mountain. Go to your Local Site and Rent a Gun plus, if possible, Camo Gear - otherwise just wear jeans and a hoody / long sleeved T-shirt if it's hot (to prevent BB's breaking the skin of your arms). While you're there talk to players about their guns and gear - most people will be happy to tell you anything you want to know and let you hold their guns, shoulder them, etc. Try to have a hold of one of each of these types before you decide which assault rifle suits you best: M4 or AK47/74 or G36K/C MP5 or L85A2 (SA80) Buy Surplus Camouflage Clothing from eBay, stuff like these & these. Do not pay more than £20 for both inc P&P, but you should be able to get them for less. This is one of the best deals available from retailers right now, but you'll probably want to sell the boots on fleabay. Even without the boots though, it's still an very good deal for everything you get. Buy Plastic Armoured Gloves like these - they may not look the coolest, but they are the best protection from BB hits to the hands (which hurt). Otherwise get Hard Knuckle's for looks or Viper Tactical Gloves for winter. Join an Airsoft Site and, if you're over 18, get UKARA registered. If not, your membership still proves that you are an airsofter and some retailers will take that as defence against prosecution under the VCRA. Bear in mind that u18's cannot buy any airsoft gun, RIF or two-tone IF, but it is not illegal for an u18 to own a gun without hideous two-tone paint. Some retailers will sell a RIF to an adult accompanying a minor who has proof of being a skirmisher, but it is also not illegal for an u18 regular skirmisher to 'manufacture an RIF', ie strip the two-tone paint off (with Fairy Power Spray - instructions). Therefore, do whatever you need to do to get a Realistic looking Assault Rifle. The G&G Combat Machine range is probably your best bet, from Zero One if you need two tone, because they'll paint it for free, or Pro Airsoft Supplies because they only charge £10 to paint but also sell transparent bodied G&G's which don't look half as arse as orange or green. However CYMA are better for AK's and SRC for G36's. Check out Taiwan Gun too: they're Polish (EU) so there's no Customs charges - right now they're about the best prices for guns (14/01/14) and gunfire.pl are very good also. If you prefer a UK based seller (in case of breakdown for eg), the larger retailers (in no particular order: Zero One, Land Warrior, Airsoft World, Action Hobbies, Redwolf UK), tend to be cheapest but only for certain guns (can't really leave Fire-Support off a list of larger retailers, but cheap they aren't, and Wolf Armouries but their website is a shambles) - but it's also worth checking with smaller retailers who will often negotiate over the price/delivery/accessories - a particularly helpful one being UK-Airsoft. Buying Batteries and a Charger is often best done with the Gun, to avoid further P&P charges, but otherwise go to Component Shop and buy Vapex (VP) batteries. (Vapex now have their own eBay shop) or Hobby King and buy Turnigy Nano Tech. A 1600mAh battery pack will usually see you through a full day, but it's best to have a spare of at least 1000mAh also, for those heavier trigger finger days, or just get 2200+. Still, things do go wrong so a spare battery pack is the best plan, whatever power your primary battery is. NiMh batteries can be charged from a trickle charger and these are available with auto-cut-off for less than £10 but once you add P&P from Componentshop it may well be cheaper to get one from Vapex and an adapter for Small Tamiya Connectors. LiPo and LiFe batteries need a smart balancing charger such as iMax B3, or to charge any battery you may ever need an iMax B6 + 12V 5A Power Supply will also run off a car battery or an iMax B6AC has the mains power supply built in. Note: many people have spare basic chargers that will do the trick in combination with an alarm clock - I'd sell a couple. Buy at least one Spare High Capacity Magazine with your gun. Later you may decide to swap to mid or low cap mags, but a couple of hi caps will still be useful as back up. MAG brand have a good rep (see below). CYMA make good AK mags. Classic Army or Ares for G36 mags. You will also need something to carry your rifle in so it cannot be seen by the general public on your way to and from skirmish days. A British Army Duffle Bag is probably the cheapest option and you can get three rifles in there, or one and a bunch of other stuff. If the muzzle sticks out of the top by a few cm, do what I do and put a canvas bag over it, or a sock would do lol! There are cooler options, Swiss Arms rifle bags for eg, but you'll have to pay accordingly. At this stage the whole plethora of accessories and gear will seem very tempting and I don't think it matters much what order you consider / get them in, but a lot of stuff is ultimately useless so I'll just mention things which do help: A Vertical Foregrip is more comfortable to hold than the horizontal handguards of a rifle. A sling makes carrying a rifle all day easier by taking some of the weight, but also it allows you to drop it so that both hands are free and still have it to hand / attached if you need to move (a 3 point sling gives maximum flexibility in means of use). Knee & Elbow Pads make crawling through undergrowth / kneeling in mud easy and also make aiming while lying prone in difficult terrain easier. However these cheap ones do tend to slip off your knees, the best way to prevent which is to add loops similar to belt loops to your combat trousers in line with the upper pad strap next to the outside leg seam for the pad strap to go through - this prevents the pad from slipping down but still allows enough flexibility to allow the kind of movement needed for comfort whatever your position. A Brimmed Hat keeps the sun out of your eyes, but most Helmets do not, so although helmets look cooler, you may then have to rely on Dark Lenses in your eyepro, which will fog when you get hot and sweaty from running about (a boonie also tends to break up the shape of your head in cover, a baseball cap may look TDB but is more noticeable in cover, and a crap hat makes you look like you should be doing latrine duty). There is another option which is to get Goggles with perforated sheet mesh, like these or these, because they darken the view like shades, but they also interfere with vision in a way which sometimes becomes very annoying so it's not an option I would recommend unless there was no other option. A Red Laser is pretty useless outdoors, except at night, and a lot of sites will not allow the more powerful green lasers, but Red/Green Dot Holo/Reflex Sights can be good, so long as they are bright enough, so look for one with variable brightness settings. Aliexpress is your best bet for prices. A Hydration Pouch & Bladder is such a good thing. You will get a dry mouth due to breathing heavily and also lose moisture by sweating. To be able to simply take a sip whenever you feel like it is brilliant compared to messing about with a canteen which tends to be much less comfortable to carry as well as being more hassle to get out and drink from (cheapest here). For most skirmish needs a 3L bladder is way too much, however that size still seems most available and therefore cheapest - no need to fill it all the way! In those pouches with no built in rear padding it's worth adding a piece of foam from a sleeping mat in the pocket many carriers have between the bladder and your back, or just behind the bladder if you have no pocket, to prevent body heat warming the water. Also worth adding a bite valve with a tap, so that you can easily decant water into your hand if you need to rinse dust/dirt/BB fragments out of your eye. Even if you add a funky tube cover, it's still cheaper to buy all these bits separately than a Camelbak, Platypus, or some other big brand. A Dump Pouch for empty mags makes reloading faster than if you need to replace the empties in pockets or pouches. A Drop Leg Dump Pouch is best IMO, like this. A Blank Firing Grenade (BFG) will save you money on pyro's in the long run and can be easier to use, but bear in mind that they're also easy to lose / have stolen. If you are going to carry more than two spare mags, you will want some kind of Assault Vest, Webbing, Chest Rig, or Plate Carrier. Molle is most versatile, but expensive compared to surplus items. This Bulle MOLLE Recon Chest Harness is a cheaper, lighter, alternative to a full Vest or Plate Carrier, but remember you also need pouches for it. British Army Northern Ireland Chest Rigs are among the cheapest - they used to be on eBay auctions at 1p + £6 P&P . PLCE Webbing is pretty cheap, around £25 posted from eBay if you're patient and it's indestructible but also heavy. A British Army Assault Vest is a good all round choice and you can get them for around £20-25, less sometimes, also from eBay. My advice would be to buy some alternative clothing that you choose for the look and a Back Up AEG before buying a Pistol, but hey ho, they are good toys... You do not want a Sniper Rifle or a Gas Powered Rifle / Sub-machinegun until you have been into this sport for at least a year. Bear in mind that, on top of the price of the gun, it costs a minimum of about £150 but more like £250 to upgrade a sniper rifle so it's worth taking to a skirmish. It's also very different to on-screen - you are rarely in a position to, for eg, from so far away that you cannot be spotted, simply put your cross hairs on somebody and pull the trigger. If your sights are set for extreme range then at normal skirmish distances of 50-60m you will have to compensate, take wind into account and target tracking, only to find that it took so long for a breeze to drop sufficiently for you to have any chance of hitting that the target has moved 10m closer to you and your BB sails over their head... GBBR's take more maintenance, hence knowledge, and the mags cost about £35-40 a piece... Under no circumstances should you think you've spotted a bargain we haven't and buy it before first starting a thread in either the General Discussion Forum (for more general enquiries) or the Guns, Gear & Loadouts Forum (for specific enquiries) to get some opinions. Among the worst sites for selling what appear to be bargains but are in fact rip-offs are those with "bbguns" in their name - there are a few and, whilst it would be unfair to say they are all exactly the same, they absolutely are each arses in their own unique way. We get a constant stream of people arriving here with bad experiences from them, or having been sold something entirely useless, or way more expensive than it's worth. For information on looking after your first AEG, jump to this post further into the thread. All comments, discussion, disagreements, questions, etc. welcome. Have at it
  2. 21 points
    proffrink

    Moving on + handover

    These are the best forums I've found for airsoft - I don't think I'm alone in that opinion, and it's something you should be proud of. Thank you. We hope to see you about from time to time. -- As for everything else; I'll be striving to keep most of the obvious stuff the same, as it's already a winning formula as far as I'm concerned. This isn't going to become a paintball forum just yet (that's next year's plan). We will be looking to refresh certain rules and procedures (with an aim to keeping things easy going moderation wise), we will be looking for new mods (specifically for keeping the classifieds pruned as necessary) and there will be some behind the scenes changes just to make moderating more easy and to delegate one or two bigger jobs to the moderation team in case I'm not about. Other than that, not a huge deal on the books presently that will affect the core forum experience. I hope I do right by you all. More announcements to follow next week on the specifics.
  3. 20 points
    Deva

    Moving on + handover

    Hi all, It is with both sadness and excitement to let you know that I'll be handing over the keys to @proffrink this weekend. Therefore please expect some downtime as we do an internet style house move. We'll aim to get you back online ASAP of course. It has been 10 years since myself and some friends got together to launch AF-UK - simply because we found it odd that no one had created an airsoft forum called "Airsoft Forums". We were always the underdog and slightly quieter forum vs. ASCUK (RIP) and ZeroIn, but once ASCUK bit the dust, I think people began to appreciate the chilled out nature and relatively relaxed rules of AF-UK vs ZeroIn which was a pleasure to witness. Although I haven't been as active in recent years, I thoroughly enjoyed mixing in the forums with you guys and engaging in the banter and fun that went on. If you're here as much as I used to be (I read every post for about the first 5 years), perhaps you've been back through all the old posts and know what I'm talking about. Unfortunately, your passion can soon feel like your job and the same commitments no longer become possible. However, I know that the same community bubbles away today. Despite not being about the forums so much recently, I have continued my mission of keeping the board online, independent, secure and free from problems. You'll notice that the forum changes every so often - that's just because the software updates we install for security reasons also include core updates to the forum suite we use. I'd encourage you to try and get up-to-speed with these changes when they happens - they aren't being forced upon you for the fun of giving you something new to get used to, rather because they are necessary. That said, there have been some bigger changes over the years that have been to keep us with the times. Does anyone remember when the site looked like this? 2008: 2012: 2017: I'll still be around every so often to see how things are going and look forward to see how things change. Now over to @proffrink! Cheers, Dev
  4. 20 points
    You could say the big reveal was an anti-Qlimax. I'll get my coat.
  5. 19 points
    Dredd

    Gun picture thread

    Hey guys just finished my gun room , yes it’s my downstairs W/C but still adds something different
  6. 19 points
    Deva

    New Player Guides & Info

    If you're new, please take some time to look around the forums and view pinned topics. There is a lot of useful information. As a starting point.. Finding a place to play: New and looking for somewhere to play? The law and Airsoft: Our UK Law Forum The "Violent Crime Reduction Act" in Full Popular UKARA Related Questions Beginners Guides: The Beginners Guide to Airsoft Ian's Guide to Noobism on a Tight Budget AF-UK App with useful stuff:AF-UK App Guides forum containing lots of useful info:Guides ForumChances are simple questions will have been asked before. If you can't find anything on the above links then please search: http://www.airsoft-f...e&module=search
  7. 18 points
    Jedi_Master

    Used BBs for sale

    In a time of austerity the airsoft community needs to take the hit as well and do what it can to help. Having seen the sheer number of used BBs just lying unwanted on the ground I have decided to start collecting them up and will selling bottles of used BBs at discounted prices. Each bottle will contain genuine used BBs in a variety colours and weights from all major and minor manufacturers. Unlimited stock levels for one additional free bottle with each order just quote you UKARA license number. Key advantages as follows: Colour mix - great for confusing the opposition team into thinking there are more players shooting at them because of all the different colours. Tracer BBs included at no extra cost. Hassle free hop set-up - mixed weights will mean that there will always be some BBs in each bottle perfectly suited to your gun, simples. Aerodynamic performance - some BBs may have small dents and dimples just like golf balls and so they will fly further and faster than smooth BBs! Environmentally friendly - used BBs save the planet's plastic resources and is an example of true recycling (supported by European Green parties). Nearly new condition - used BBs are almost as good as new ones, having only been fired once so mint condition, a real bargain. Proven track record - used BBs have already been fired which proves that they are fully working. So, if you want to receive your bottle of used BBs (as well as help save the environment and do your bit for austerity) then click the LIKE button. [Note: if you think this is a serious thread, then please read it again, and reset your sarcasm filter. ]
  8. 17 points
    ImTriggerHappy

    Getting the hump .

    I can understand all the points of view on this but can't say I agree with lots of it. I see young and old come out with frankly laughable snowflake comments within airsoft and outside of it. The one thing I do see though is the older generation always moan about the young ones but in my dealings I generally find the 40+ generation whine more and go on about how much harder they had it. When marshaling I also find the older generation are generally more disrespectful and acted more like the world owed them something than younger guy and girls. People need to remember that the young generation are growing up in a world where through social media everything they do is put on trial and judged, that in itself sometimes creates a harsher world than those growing up 20/30 years ago had to deal with. The old adage of sticks and stones is bullshit in todays society. People are self harming and killing themselves over verbal bullying everyday and the internet makes it harder for them to escape from it. There are not only 2 sorts of people who post this sort of stuff. Some are just a socially dysfunctional and don't understand how others will perceive things. A light ribbing is fine but people also need to remember that it is easy to be a dick behind a keyboard but how many that do would ever stand up face to face? Not many that is for sure. I have had a few dicks online act clever that I have then met face to face and not one ever backed up a thing. As someone who has met and is known in person by lots of people on here I will say that not one has ever acted disrespectful to those around them that I have witnessed so I guess it is just an internet thing. Easy to be a keyboard warrior but more difficult to be a man
  9. 17 points
    Introduction: I’m making this guide for several reasons, not least because I’m sad and have nothing better to do, or maybe I’m procrastinating from doing real work, but I’d also like to get down on paper some thoughts on the science of our pew pew guns and clear up some misconceptions or at least get a discussion going to better our understanding. This guide is going to be a combination of actual science (well, as close as I can get to actual science ) and some personal experience, I’m by no means the most experienced airsofter out there but I’ve tried over the years to get an understanding of what’s going on and for those new to the hobby this might save some time barking up the wrong tree as I’ve done. Part 1: the goal Well this is simple, our goal is to shoot some random stranger on a farm on a Sunday and “kill” him, or at least hit him with a plastic pellet and for him to shout “hit” and plod off back to a chequered flag. This sounds pretty easy, but we need to start somewhere, so what do we need to make this happen? Well we need to hit him for a start, always helps, but not only that but we need to hit him hard. That’s not to say we need to hurt him, but whilst we can argue all day about wether or not people should wear plate carriers the short of it is you need your bb’s to hit with enough energy that he either feels it or hears the impact (which on a field of explosions and other people pew pewing can be difficult). So when our bb hits the target it needs energy. This is why I dislike to some extent the “you can get lots of range from a 328fps gun” argument, yes you can, but how far the bb travels isn’t the only part of getting a kill and just hitting isn't always enough sadly. Part 2: some misconceptions One thing that I see a lot in various threads is “upgrade your fps it’ll give you more range” or “change to x y or z hop it’ll give you more range” or “use x type of bb it’ll give you more range”, which is both right and wrong depending on how you judge range which will become more clear later. The thing to remember is once your bb leaves your barrel it doesn’t care what happened before, it could have come from a speedsofter’s £3000 hpa or some kids £90 rental ak, it only has 3 things on it’s side to fight the wind/tree branches/gravity to get to the target and these are: Backspin- this gives us our wonderful magnus force that will fight gravity and keep our bb in the air without needing to go at proper bullet speeds Mass- how much the bb weighs Energy- kinetic energy, we often like to use fps as our measurement as it’s how we can best record our performance but what really matters is energy So we should probably cover these 3 as they apply to our bb in flight. part 3- backspin backspin gives us our magnus force, the science behind it is quite interesting and worth a read if you’re interested in expanding your knowledge but in reality the only thing that we need to know is if our hop unit is set right. Now this is different for every setup, how fast the bb is actually spinning doesn’t really matter to us, it could be 1rpm or 10,000 rpm, we don’t care we just want our bb to fly straight. Now personally I set my hop units for a little bit of rise, about 20cm, so that when the bb comes out it’ll rise up by 20cm then start falling back down. The logic here is that if I’m aiming for someone’s chest it’s not going to jump up over their head, miss then drop back down behind them. We’ve all been there where our hop has made us miss someone. In terms of the physics the amount of lift we get depends on 2 things: The speed of rotation, which is pretty much constant after the bb has left the barrel (well, it slows down a bit but not much) The velocity of the bb When we “set” our hop unit what we’re doing is setting the speed of rotation to get the right lift, but if we change ammo or change springs the bb will either be going slower (needing more spin to get the same lift) or faster (needing less spin). Now the important thing to remember is that if we’re spinning x rpm, then there’s y velocity that gives us the exact amount of lift to fight gravity, but of course a bb doesn’t stay at y velocity, it slows down which is where mass comes in. Part 4- mass So we have our spin, but as I mentioned bb’s slow down, and this is the misconception I had many years ago that faster bb=more range The important thing is air resistance, which the faster you go the more of it you have so your bb slows down quicker (moving it out of that sweet spot for the hop spin to work) So say we have a 1j gun, we fire at 328fps on a .2g bb and 270fps for a .3gbb well that .2g bb is going faster, so it has more drag, and it’s lighter so the drag has more effect. The end result is the bb slows down very quickly and it doesn’t take long for it to slow down so much our backspin stops lifting it. Whereas the .3g bb is slower and harder to slow down, sure it might have started out slower but over time it keeps it’s velocity and hence stays in that nice range where the backspin can lift it. So in theory at least a heavier bb spun sufficiently will for the same energy always go further, take a look at the spreadsheet at the bottom and see what I mean. But wait, it gets better! Remember I said we need 2 things to hit a target? Well a heavier bb gives us both! In the real world we’re shooting through wind and worse leaves, these are forces just like regular ol’ drag and a heavy bb will be blown about less by the wind and has a better chance of punching straight through those pesky leaves and hitting the target, so we get more accuracy, yay! But not only are they more accurate they also carry their energy better, so when we do hit the target at range it’s going to hit it harder, and thus make enough force and noise to let the target know they’ve been hit. So where’s the downside? Why wouldn’t you run sniper .48’s in every gun you own and on every site? Well several reasons: 1. Cost, damn that pesky real world economics, but obviously heavier bb’s cost more. If you find somewhere selling .48’s for the same price as .2’s then let me know because that’s awesome. Those of us that own support guns with high rates of fire will most likely wince at having to fill it up with costly ammo only to be sprayed into the ether, likewise snipers who don’t shoot much can afford the good stuff hence why they like to run heavy. 2. Travel time, again this is the real world being all awkward and getting in the way of our lovely discussion but remember that our target may not be nice enough to stand still and wait to get hit, especially if he sees our bb’s coming towards him. Heavy bb’s might carry their energy better but they’re slower and take longer to go the same distance, not much longer, but it's enough. edit: it must be noted that a large proportion of perceived travel time is down to the additional range, whilst a .2 will be faster over a short distance remember that a .3 or .4 will still be chugging along long after the .2 as slowed down and dropped. 3. Getting the lift, unfortunately the same properties that make a bb great in flight make them bad for spinning up in the hop unit, and this means that you may find you can’t run them without upgrading your gun and if (like me at the time) you don’t understand fully why it’s happening. This is the “more hop” argument for things like maple leaf/flathop/rhop guns, it isn’t about getting lots of hop on .2’s, it’s about being able to get enough hop on .3’s or heavier. 4. When you don’t need range, now I play mostly outdoors on sites limited to 1j, so for me getting every drop of performance I can is paramount, but say you’re playing in cqb where the maximum distance is maybe 10m, well there’s not much point spending money getting a setup that can shoot well beyond that if you’re not going to be using it, you’d be much better spending money on grenades. So what weight should you run? Well as heavy as you can afford and your gun can lift. Personally I use .3’s for all my “assault” type guns, .2’s in my mg42 (even though it shoots lovely on .3’s) and .43’s in my vsr, although should I ever sell my soul and play indoors I’ll just run .2’s. Part 5- energy So our final ingredient is energy, most folks will know this as fps because when we’re getting our guns checked at the local site that’s what we get told “oh sorry you’re 400fps and the limit is 350 so you can’t play”. Well what’s really important is energy, kinetic energy, which is a factor of our bb mass and it’s velocity, it’s why the limits are different for different weights of bb’s and why it’s a common tactic of the cheater to rock up at the chrono and say “yeah I’m running .2’s” and to chrono at 328fps while anyone with a lick of sense can hear the smack of the bb’s against the backstop and think “like hell is he running .2’s” This is where I take exception to the argument of “marui’s shoot fine at 328fps, you don’t need fps to get range”, well you do, or at least you should try to get your gun shooting as close to your site limit as you can. The short argument is energy is energy and more is always better, the long version is that energy gives us the velocity that means we need less backspin and can run heavier bb’s without them being really slow and letting our targets stroll out of the path of our righteous pewing. Remember once the bb leaves the barrel it only has 3 things, and mass is the only one it’ll not lose as it flies downrange. As your bb slows down in the wind it loses energy so the more of it you have at the start the better, it’s why all the cheaters want to run hot. A friend of mine recently lent me his m16 to do a bit of work on, he was keeping up in terms of range with most of the folk he was shooting at in part due to a good hop, but he’d rage daily at people not taking hits until we chrono’d it to find it shooting at half the site energy, turned out his floating bb’s were hitting with so little force if he was at any distance people just weren’t feeling it. Now to digress from external ballistics for a second (well, more like 10 minutes) to talk about joule creep. Think about it like this, our bb in the barrel gets pushed by gas, and how long it gets pushed for depends on the length of the barrel and how quickly it’s getting pushed. Joule creep is what happens when you have an “over gassed” gun firing .2’s, whilst you can do this with an aeg or a spring sniper it’s much more common in gas/hpa guns. Think about it like this, your gun can only push so hard, and a light bb will get up to speed very quickly, once it leaves the barrel then it’s not going to be pushed any more. So imagine we had a longer barrel, well if we push just as hard over a longer distance then the bb will spend more time accelerating and hence be going faster. Well the other way to make a bb spend more time in the barrel is to make it accelerate slower, now we can do this by making the bb heavier, so for the same force it’ll accelerate less (remember newton’s f=ma? Who says math class in school was useless). Now it’s not going to come out any faster than the light bb, but it doesn’t need to, it’s heavier so doesn’t need to go as fast to have the same energy. A good way to test this is to take a WE or marui gbb pistol, fill it up with .2’s and chrono it, for the sake of argument lets say it fires at 328fps which is 1j Now try it with .3’s and it fires 300fps, which is 1.2j or equivalent to firing a .2 going at 370fps This is why it’s important to chrono a gun on the weight you plan on using in a game, because a player can perfectly honestly, indeed without even realising himself, chrono his gun on .2’s and pass, but then fill his mags with .3’s and spend the rest of the day shooting a hot gun. Now you can argue all day that “yeah but he passed the chrono”, well it’s the exact same thing as running hot, the effect is the same (ie it hurts more and he has a more range), if everyone on the site does it or is happy with people doing it then the site's limits should be changed to reflect this. so digression aside what energy should you run? Well my opinion is you should take your site limit in joules and get your gun to shoot that on the ammo you use, any less will be a disadvantage and any more will be cheating. Part 6- nerd time! Well, that was a long rant without nerdy equations and whatnot so time to put our science hats on. So our bb in flight has 3 forces acting on it: Lift- from our magnus force, this is a product of our backspin and our velocity. The full equation I’ve used is for a cylinder but it’s close enough for showing the effect: Fl=ρ*v*2*π*r²*l*ω Looks an awful lot like it’s not just backspin and velocity there so lets break it down: Fl is our lifting force v is our velocity ω is our angular velocity (aka how much spin we have) r is our radius l is our length (for the cylinder example I stole this equation from) ρ is the density of air so if you think about it, if we make some broad assumptions we can say that the spin doesn’t slow down (at least not enough to make a difference) and the density of air doesn’t change enough to make a difference either. Now we’re dealing with the same size of bb so really the only things that can change are F as a product of v and ω. Drag- this is just from velocity and bb diameter (so sorry marushin guys but not sorry, we’re dealing with 6mm spheres here), although once again we have a more complicated equation: F=0.5*ρ*v²*Cd*A Ok so that’s not as bad Fl once again is our force, only this time it’s for drag Ρ has snuck in again, it’s the same atmospheric density v is a bit of a cheat, technically it’s the velocity of the air against the bb but I’m not NASA so the velocity of the bb is close enough Cd is our drag coefficient, again a big simplification but for our purposes we’re saying 0.47 for a sphere that’s got turbulent air around it (little known pseudo fact marui “magic dust” actually bonds the airflow to the bb causing laminar flow dropping the Cd to 0.1! (*not entirely serious)) A is our frontal area of the bb, good ol’ πr² So making the same assumptions before, with the addition of assuming turbulent flow, we end up with Fd being variable as a result of v. Gravity- this is from our bb weight and here comes the scary equation: Fg=m*g Wait, what? That was meant to be complicated! Well once again it is, technically g can depend on where on earth you are but in reality nobody cares because it’s close enough. Remember back to school math g is 9.81m/s² So with that explained on to the bit where I skip the really dull bit and just tell you to go look at the spreadsheet, basically it takes these 3 equations and with the starting parameters you give it it’ll spit out a graph of how different weight bb’s will fly. So as a quick note on it’s use: Muzzle energy- I’ve rated this as fps on a .2gbb just because that’s a unit we’re all familiar with, if you want to use joules it’s to the right of the reset hop button MED distance- this is the distance of your MED, for snipers interested in just how much hurt your 500fps gun running .5g bb’s inflicts on someone at 20m Energy at MED- this gives you an MED if you want to know how far a bb goes before it slows down to a given energy, useful for showing how far a bb can go whilst still hitting as hard as an equivalent gun point blank. Reset hop- this was a right pain making the spreadsheet so unfortunately the best I can do is fix the hop setting for a 20cm rise before it drops again, this will change if the fps is different so remember to press that button otherwise you’ll get some suspiciously good range numbers and some strange graphs. Maximum range- this I’ve set to the distance I’d call the “effective” range, ie when a bb has risen 20cm from where it left the barrel, then drop to 20cm below where it left the barrel, so if you fire at a man sized target you’ll hit him without needing to fire your gun wildly into the air and assuming he’s kind enough to stand there and get shot. So a couple of interesting points to note: Say we have a site, regular rifles have no MED and can be 1.3j or 375fps, snipers have 2.3j or 500fps but they have a 20m MED: Our rifleman running .2’s can shoot 38m, but if he can get enough spin to lob a .5g bb he’ll shoot 52m Our sniper running .2’s can shoot 43m, and at 20m the hit is a measly 0.4j or the same as being shot point blank by a 205fps gun, thing is if he packs .5’s in his gun he’ll shoot 60m and more importantly at 20m he hits with 1.27 joules, or the same as being hit by the rifleman at point blank So with that I’ll leave you to have a little play. Part 7- but I’m not a nerd! What do I need to do to get my gun to shoot far? So we’ve covered pretty well the science of how to get a bb to go far, it needs to be heavy, with lots of energy, and enough spin and if it has those 3 things it’ll go as far regardless of what gun it comes from. So why spend money on a fancy polarstar kit with an rhop like my favourite youtuber uses? Well back at the start we mentioned you need 2 things to get hits, and the first is you need to hit in the first place. This is where all our upgrades come in, a fancy barrel and hop unit wont make your bb’s go any further, but what it will mean is they’ll all start the same, we’ve all seen that guy with his 50rps dsg build m4 spray a mag load of bb’s only to get salty and rage because “he’s not calling his hits” when in reality by the time it gets to the target it’s a 10 foot spread and he's not hitting a thing. So the first place I’d recommend looking is your hop unit, there’s a million different designs that promise the earth so I’m just going to cover the standard, flat and radial hop and hopefully explain what’s going on so you can understand what some of the fancier designs out there like maple leaf are doing. So the standard hop is what most guns come with these days, it’s basically a lump of rubber in your barrel: Now lets add the bb, the trick here is to realise that a barrel is not exactly 6mm and neither is the bb, nothing is perfect and there’s a tolerance. So when you’re buying expensive barrels and bb’s what you’re really paying for is for them to be exactly the size they say they are and in the case of bb’s to be all exactly the same size. Now a bb is slightly smaller than the barrel, so we can be sure it won’t get stuck, this is why it’s important to keep your barrel and ammo clean because enough dirt and it’ll be rubbing it’s way down messing up that lovely backspin we want. Now we want our backspin to be the same every time, not just in terms of how much backspin there is but also in terms of the backspin being the same every time: The perfect scenario is vertical spin like this: But of course the bb isn’t going to be nice and pop perfectly in the centre every time: So our spin is at an angle, and as a result our magnus force will also be at an angle, lifting the bb not just up but sideways, this means it’ll try and curve off to the left or right, and because not all the force it acting upwards it’ll also lift up more or less, this is our friend with his ultra fast gun shooting a 10 foot spread and not hitting anything. So our alternative is to flat hop, and try to minimise this angle: Which when we try our wonky bb does this: So we get less angle, our bb’s drift less and our spread is less, meaning our bb’s are much more likely to hit what we’re aiming at, not only that but a flat hop will have a longer contact patch, or in other words it spends longer spinning the bb, meaning we can spin heavier bb’s and get all the wonderful benefits heavier ammo allows us. Flat hopping a gun really isn’t as hard as you’d think it would be and can get some excellent results for very little money, and whilst it wont give you more total range on it’s own, it will give you accuracy and the ability to use heavier ammo increasing the range you can hit things. edit: as a minor digression i figure i might as well cover how to make a flathop seeing as it's one of the best bang for buck airsoft upgrades out there as you can really tighten up the groupings of a gun potentially for free: 1. remove the hop from your gun, this can be very simple or very difficult depending on the particular model, for example my f2000 is just 1 pin to remove the upper and the hop/barrel is right there to pull out, but a jg ak takes much more disassembly, as with all things youtube the gun you have for a guide, take your time and remember- as long as you don't lose parts you can always take it to a tech to get it sorted, so don't worry. 2. pull the stock hop unit apart, you want the rubber and the nub (the little cylindrical rubber thing that'll drop out when you remove the barrel), the nub you can toss away as you'll want to replace it with a flat nub, various manufacturers (Prometheus being somewhat prominent) make these but if you're handy with a knife and super cheap you can make a heath robinson flat nub out of a pencil eraser. again youtube is your friend for how to disassemble and re-assemble a hop unit. 3. turn the stock hop rubber inside out, this can be tricky and i find using an alan key (or similar pokey type object) can help tremendously, don't use anything sharp though as you don't want to poke holes in your rubber (air leaks are bad m'kay) 4. cut the bump off the inside, as well as the ridge on the bottom used to line it up, or if you prefer there are pre-made flathop rubbers out there which will save you the bother. the important thing we're aiming for here is no holes, and no bumps on the inside of the rubber 5. put the hop rubber back on the barrel, but remember where the ridge was? well turn that 90 degrees from the ridge on the barrel, this way we've got the side of the original hop rubber on the barrel which will be nice and smooth (assuming like me you couldn't be bothered to fully sand down the insides and instead just spent 20s with a pair of snips during step 4) 6. this step is optional but recommended is to take some ptfe tape and wrap it around where the hop and barrel overlap, the idea here is to seal air particularly where the ridge cut in the barrel is that is no longer sealed as we've removed the ridge, you don't need too much or else you'll have a hard time re-inserting your barrel into the hop chamber 7. re-assemble the hop unit, this should mostly be the reverse of the dissassembly, with the exception that we're replacing the original round nub with our new flat nub, you may need to trim the nub a bit shorter to fit the hole in the hop unit (which will again depend on brand). now the trick here is when you've got it assembled to take a look down the barrel, turn the hop on all the way and check it's working, and also check the angle it's coming out at, if it's down too far on one side or the other this will pull your shots off to that side so we want it nice and square, the way i do this is literally to "twiddle" the barrel until everything's nice and square. 8. finally, drop your hop back in your gun and go pew. But what if we want more? More is good right? Well my friend in steps the Rhop: Man it took ages to align that and it still looks wonky. Now this might sound controversial but in my opinion the rhop isn’t really much different to a flathop, but the devil’s in the details. Firstly it’s going to actively pull the bb’s into the centre, if you look at some of the fancy hop designs (like maple leaf) you’ll see they’re trying to go for the same idea. The DIY rhop just takes a regular flat hop and pops a cut up square of rubber in the window of the barrel, commonly you'll see folk mentioning silicon hose or you can buy dedicated rhop patches. when it’s turned on it can end up looking very flat inside the barrel, but remember when it deforms it’ll wrap round the bb: So we get as close as we can get to perfect vertical spin every time, and we have the same longer contact patch the flat hop gave us so we can still lift heavy ammo. Now remember that a bb’s lift is not just a product of spin, but also its velocity and herein lies the advantage of the rhop. Hop up rubbers come in different hardness’s, and like formula 1 fans will tell you a soft rubber is going to be grippy and a hard rubber not so grippy, now these aren’t cars but there’s one solid advantage to a hard rubber and that’s stopping leaks- remember your airsoft gun is chucking a lot of air behind that bb and air likes to escape. Now one way is to go down the barrel and shove the bb out of the way, but if it can shove its way out past the hop rubber or the nozzle or better yet just not go anywhere and stay in this nice cylinder thank you very much then it will. This is why common advice is to check for air leaks. Now since we’re talking about hops we’ll simply say that if you want a soft grippy rubber to spin your heavy bb’s then it’s going to be easier for the air to squish the rubber out of the way and sneak out, so we want a hard rubber, this is why hard rubber’s tend to be recommended for snipers as it’ll help prevent air leaks, and if you’ve played with the spreadsheet you’ll see that faster bb’s need less spin to lift, so the grip is less relevant if your gun is shooting fast. Well an rhop gives you the best of both worlds, because the patch and the main body of the rubber are separate you can have a nice hard air sealing rubber on the outside and a nice soft grippy rubber on the inside, yay! Downside is these can be a bit of a pain to get right, however it’s worth experimenting because the boost in accuracy and by extension effective range is a worthy payoff. now i haven't covered bb's barrels gearboxes and springs because frankly it's pretty straightforward: good bb's are consistent in size, weight, surface polish and roundness, check out Gasman's topic if you want to look at what makes up a good bb. good barrels are straight, there's no variation along their length, tight versus widebore is it's own topic but in my opinion that's secondary to quality (ie if you care enough to consider proper tight/widebores you should really focus on quality too) the argument for a tightbore is that it will allow less "wobble" of the bb as it can't rattle around as much, of course the counter argument is that the tighter tolerances mean the bb could hit the barrel and as a result gain spin in a different direction pulling the shot off. the inverse is true for widebores, whilst they could let the bb bounce around more the theory is the bb will be kept centred by a cushion of air and thus not bounce on the sides and get off-axis spin. barrel length isn't all that important for accuracy, anyone who's met the wrath of my 4" pdi barreled hicapa can attest to that, although for certain setups a long barrel can be rather useful (like trying to go for a quieter build, especially with hpa) i'll let you decide for yourself which side of the barrel argument you sit on, but remember quality is absolutely king. personally i get good results from pdi tightbores, but i've not really tried proper quality widebores to compare. good gearboxes don't leak air, so they have good o rings, good tolerances and good compression, apart from that most gearbox discussions are more about supporting higher rates of fire, reliable feeding etc. and springs give you more fps, pretty self explanatory, pick the right one for your setup and site limits. edit: hop units (ie the likes of madbull or pro-win) have more sensitive adjustments, features like the addition of tracer or holding bb capability, and are generally better quality, however they are not essential when compared to the rubbers and nubs they contain most of what makes an hpa system so good is it gives the same pressure and volume of air for every single shot and consistency of fps=consistency of spin=accuracy=effective range, it's also much easier to achieve reliable high rates of fire and the ability to tune your fps can be handy if you regularly travel to sites with different limits, of course the price you pay for this is having to carry around the small bomb air tank on your back all the time. Part 8- conclusions Well the primary conclusion from this is that I should really be getting back to doing proper work, and that it’s almost certain I’ve just annoyed several strangers on the internet with my wonky diagrams and half-baked ponderings who will proceed to tell me I’m wrong about something. Now I’m not trying to lie to you, and if I am wrong I’d like to know because at least half of what I know has been learned through internet arguments. hell I used to think running .2’s was the best way to go for low fps until a bunch of strangers on the internet told me I was wrong. When I properly tried it to prove to myself I was right I realised I was wrong, and now look at me preaching the benefits of heavy ammo, with science! The best way to learn this stuff is to try it, it might be scary to crack open your first hop unit and cut it up with a pair of snips to make a flat hop but if you’re too scared to do it the first time you’ll never be able to try it a second or third time and eventually get it right. But if you think I’ve made a mistake, or I’m spreading misinformation then please explain yourself so I can understand what the problem is and either admit i'm wrong and learn something, or prove you wrong and you'll learn something, either way someone gets to learn something and: now if anyone asks, i've been researching de-lamination of fibre matrix composites all morning ;) BB range study.xlsm edit 1: cleared up an issue with travel time using heavier bb's (ie it's only slower over short distances and the difference isn't that much), added a rough guide to flathopping (more as a motivation as to it being easy and effective than an actual tutorial), fixed a few spelling mistakes and changed some wording to make it a bit clearer in parts.
  10. 17 points
    BigBlackGlock

    Gun picture thread

    Here is my child - Umarex/VFC G28 GBBR. I also have no money left. It has taken a long time to piece this thing together but man, it is one hell of a rifle!
  11. 17 points
    Mike636

    Don't be a knob :)

    Treat your RIF like your genitals, don't get it out in public, don't wave it about where neighbors can see and don't be a dick! The only time you should have it out is when your in the woods with strangers. ....Oh no this metaphor was a bad choice
  12. 16 points
    Darkmikey22

    Gun picture thread

  13. 15 points
    An official Airsoft License to play the game, 18+ only. Only issued after passing a theory test on sportsmanship. Disclaimer: This may or may not be serious. Risk of sarcasm likely.
  14. 14 points
    This isn't Airsoft Anonymous, we're more what you'd call... enablers.
  15. 14 points
    Monkman

    Load-Out / Loadout Picture topic

    At ACEAIRSOFT last weekend...weather was shitty, but was still an awesome day with some fun scenarios. Since starting airsoft back in Sep'17 and throwing myself into my favourite hobby (Used as coping mechanism after losing my old man) My health has improved tenfold and I've lost 5stone in weight and still heading in the right direction. I love Airsoft......
  16. 14 points
    Dentonboy

    Re-kitting up

    Tokyo Marui Tokyo Maru Tokyo Mar Tokyo Ma Tokyo M Tokyo Toky Tok To T Tr Tru Trus Trust Trust M Trust Me Trust Me M Trust Me M8 Trust Me M8!
  17. 14 points
    They must have seen what that Stormzombies kid was asking for his p09 and decided a robbery was taking place.
  18. 14 points
    Rogerborg

    Pets at games

    Obligatory:
  19. 14 points
    emilianoksa

    Have I been kidding myself?

    Well, lads, thanks to your encouragement, I did it. My first visit was to the Mill in Wigan today. Lost count of the number of times I took bbs in the face, on the hands, chest and bum. Had no idea where many of them were coming from. I did manage to get a few hits on players myself though. And most important of all, it was the most fun I've had since I was a teenager. I'm completely hooked now. I learned a lot from playing CQB, and lost many of my preconceived ideas. I had been intending to buy a G36 on completion of my three visit probationary period. Now I realise that this probably isn't the gun for me. I held a couple of M4s and they just felt better for my build and constitution. People were very friendly, and nobody gave a monkey's about my age. I just wish I'd done this years ago. Thanks again for all your help.
  20. 14 points
    BigBlackGlock

    Gun picture thread

    Not sure if I ever shared the end result of my GHK/RATech M4, but here it was. Built from the ground up, the only GHK parts left were the magazine, hop up and FCG. Oh and here was the end result of my KWA Kriss Vector 'rifle' build. I just really like customising stuff
  21. 14 points
    AK47frizzle

    Double Eagle M900A

    Ok, so this is just a little spin off but I intend to make this a detailed review of this absolutely shitty gun. Intro So I saw some people on this site who owns a Double Eagle M901c, the shorter compact version of the M900A. So i thought I might as well do a review before someone else makes the mistake of buying this awful gun. So you may be thinking, "Why did you buy this gun? Why not a G&G raider or an SRC?" Reason being is that I didn't know much about those brands at the time, plus the website I bought this from said it had a metal gearbox.... and I was lured right into the booby trap. I asked my mum to buy it for me. It normally would have costed £120 on those shitty websites like JBBG or BBguns4less but luckily the website I bought it from sold it for only £60 which was what lured me into it. As this was my VERY first AEG, I did not know what to expect, so I kind of trusted the "metal gearbox" it claimed to have.... What's in the box man? So, when the royal mail man knocked on the door with a box, I was so excited to see if it was my gun, and it was. But seconds later, my sister got a phone call that her friend died.... nasty coincidence... but nevertheless, I took the box upstairs and left it there on my bed and went to my sister's room along with my mum to comfort her. But an hour and a half later, when my sister stopped crying, I came back to gun, excited to see what lies beneath the wrapper. I tore the brown paper apart like a beast and I saw the gun box; There was a picture of their product on the box and a sentence at the top saying " AUTO . SEMI", "Automatic Electric Gun" and "Enhanced Hop Up System"... Yeh right. And some chinese which I could read. (obviously). So, when I first opened the box, I saw the AK47 with my face just going, "Omg, wow, my first AEG is sitting right in front of me". And since it was my first AEG, I didn't really know what's good or bad but it looked just damn amazing despite the horrible two tone orange. So in the box is a metal high cap magazine is of decent quality; it's still working as of now, an "alright" sling although i'd never use it, a shitty 1050 mAH nickel metal hydride battery, a shitty bag of BBs, a.... well, decent charger that i'm still using, and a decent manual which has some chinglish but tells you what you need to know with both versions. Oh yeh! And I also forgot to mention some decent safety glasses you get with it! Quality Of The Stuff At first, it felt so good to be able to hold an AK47 in my hand since it is a 1 to 1 scale. It's not the heaviest gun at 3kg but it has some weight to it. The plastic on the gun is, well, a little shiny and you can clearly see the seams in the stock but the overall plastic doesn;t feel too cheap, I mean, it can withstand a little bit of force, but not a full force whack on a tree stump. But overall, it feel smooth in your hands but if you have sweat on your hands, it'll slip of the hand guard easily. As you can see, it has so much orange that it makes everyone want to puke. That's right, it's a puke machine. So this gun is just your standard AK, hop up is where the bolt is, Ak selector switch, trigger guard, AK mag etc. There isn't that much metal on it... but nevertheless, the metal parts are: the dust cover, trigger, trigger guard, bolt, outer barrel, selector switch, magazine, and.... that's about it, not that much and the dust cover also feels like cheap pot metal which I could probably cut with scissors. The Dreaded Gearbox Oh god, this part of the review.... So, on every single feckin website, they claimed it to have a "metal gearbox", THAT'S RIGHT! A EFFIN METAL GEARBOX. BUT when I opened the gun a bit, I saw this: Seriously? What the fudging hell is that? IT'S A PLASTIC GEARBOX! PLASTIC I SAY! So I was very disappointed after seeing this but at that time, I never knew Double Eagle was a shitty brand. After many hours of tinkering and taking apart my very first AEG, I finally got to the gearbox. Took a while but i did it. I felt proud. And it looked like this.... As you can see, it has a plastic shell but a metal motor cage and metal selector switches which I think is pretty decent. When I took off the motor, I got to this stage. So, with my newbie level of gearbox knowledge, I decided to go ahead and open the gearbox. I had no idea what was in it or how it worked so I kinda just tore off the gearbox cover... and the inevitable happened... The whole thing just blew up; the spring jumped out, the spring guide flew out my room and down the stairs, pieces went everywhere because of that. Washers, bushing, gears flew all over the place and the anti-reversal latch flying into my face. I was just like, "What the fudge just happened...." So I took my time to collect everything that fell out and piece it back together roughly like the photo above. I had no idea how the anti reversal latch went back on or the trigger assembly. But during that time, I had a little look at the parts. The gearbox has; plastic gears (obv), metal washers, plastic bushings, a shitty piston head, a shitty ported piston cylinder with has almost no air seal with the piston head, plastic string guide and an M100 spring but I believe the spring is stronger than that due to tests. It took almost 5 hours for me to piece this piece of crap back together because of the stupid anti-reversal latch kept jumping out. So after two days of firing and putting about maybe 1200 BBs through it, I couldn't hear the gears moving and I only heard the motor whirring away... so i opened the gun back up again and this is what I discovered: A shitty motor with a METAL pinion gear, a strong spring and plastic gears, GUESS WHAT HAPPENED? YEAH, THAT'S RIGHT, THE GEARS TORE THEMSELVES APART. Especially the bevel gear which was almost toothless like your average gramps who drinks tonnes of coke and smokes through 50 packets a day. The shredded bevel gear So i immediately bought a metal gear set from Airsoft-Club which arrived in 3-4 days I think, as I put those parts in... anti reversal latch didn't fit in partly because it was a set FOR AN M4. SO, immediately bought an AK47 specific bevel gear from airsoft club which arrived in good condition, placed it in and viola! It finally worked! But then i realised, the M4 sector gear wasn't compatible with the AK tappet plate...... ARGGGHHHH!!! WHY ARE YOU MAKING MY LIFE SO DIFFICULT?!?!?!?!? The gearbox with the M4 sector gear Went back to the Airsoft club website and bought an AK47 sector gear, it arrived and bingo! It worked fine. JESUS, so much hard work! So after some more buying of parts; spring guide, it finally worked but one thing. The trigger response was awfully slow, the sound of grinding metal was even more painful than white noise or your bully teacher scratching her vivid nails onto a dirty chalk board. So yeh, I was guessing the spur was doing that. It honestly took almost a second for a full revolution of the sector gear. It was that horrible. I lived with the pain and agony for about 4 months before I finally sacked it and for my birthday, I got a CYMA CM02 metal gearbox and a CYMA hop up chamber with a bucking from Airsoft club. The pain was finally gone, I could finally rest in peace with a decent gearbox in my gun... BUT NO. THE STUPID DOUBLE EAGLE AK47 BODY WAS NOT COMPATIBLE WITH THE CYMA GEARBOX. The beautiful metal gearbox When I discovered this, I was like "OMG! WTF HAVEN'T I SUFFERED ENOUGH????!!!!" SO immediately, I got the feckin tools out, a drill, alot of sand paper and some scissors. I wrapped the sand paper around the drill bit and held it together with a bit of blue tack, then kind of sanded the plastic of the Ak body down till the gearbox could finally fit in it. Took hours but it was worth it. But that was not the end of my FECKIN TROUBLES. The Hop Up, The Terrible Little Shit In this Gun Right, I gave this part a bad title for one massive reason that pissed me off so much more than the fudging gearbox. IT IS NOT COMPATIBLE WITH OTHER HOP UNITS IN THIS GUN. REALLY?! I MEAN REALLLYYYY????!!!! WHY AM I SUFFERING????? IS THERE AN END TO THIS? At that point, I seriously considered chucking the gun out my bedroom window because it was such a bad upgrade platform. But on my good will, I kept it safe in my arms. When I got the gearbox for my birthday, I also got a CYMA hop up chamber with it. The hop up chamber The CYMA chamber would not fit in the gun due the to original being larger than this one. So the parts to screw down the chamber onto the front end was somewhere the CYMA hop up couldn't reach. (Don't think dirty) Plus, to add to my problems, THE ORIGINAL HOP UP CHAMBER DOESN'T FIT IN THE CYMA GEARBOX So I was back to sanding down the plastic on the hop up chamber until I could finally with the hop up could finally work with the gearbox in unison. So yeh, I bought the hop up for nothing, there was nothing i could do with it, so I just left it there in my drawer for days to pass. Until recently where I took the bucking and put it into the shitty hop up chamber which improved performance. OK, SO! This shitty hop up chamber isn't your regular AK style hop, It's considerably larger, so the barrel in this is unique, no way will you get a tightbore for this. It is composed of entirely plastic, a cheap one and the bucking is a kind of shitty hard type, which is shitty. Basically the Hop up is horrendous and the worst you could ever get. Also, about 5 months later, it stopped working in full auto for some reason. Full auto still fires but the BBs are not feeding into the shitty chamber.... I have tried many methods of fixing this but none have worked so far... so I'm stuck with semi for now. Performance With The Shitty Stock Parts So, with the stock 8.4v 1050 mAH battery, you can only achieve around 650-700 rpm but if you top off the battery and put it in the gun straight away, you can achieve 900 rpm, which is why the original gearbox failed. The battery is wired to the top, but upon getting my new CYMA gearbox, I took it to my school's tech center and rewired to the stock and bought a 9.6v 1600 mAH intellect battery which it can now consistently achieve 900 rpm. With the old gearbox and original hop up, the accuracy isn't too bad with .20s; you can get the job done. You can hit a man sized target at about 30m (I measured the distance), after that, it starts to stray right quite a bit until about 42 - 50m when it drops. Honestly, my cheap shotgun can shoot further than that. But with the stock CYMA gearbox and CYMA bucking and plus cleaning the barrel (which I discovered that I should do), the effective accuracy increased to about 45m being accurate with .20g and there is little curving to the left or right, it drops about some where over 50m, maybe 60m but I don't know. But with .25s the accuracy increases a lot and sometimes it can keep going straight with no curving whatsoever, in other words, pinpoint accuracy. This unique barrel in the gun works alright. The Final Conclusion DO NOT EVER GET THIS GUN, DON'T EVEN THINK ABOUT IT. IF YOU ARE BUYING THIS GUN, ALL YOU ARE BUYING IS A SHIT TONNE OF PAIN AND HARDWORK AND SUFFERING, something not anyone would want, unless you have no life. CONS: 1. Internals are shit, all of it is shit 2. You will have no life if you buy this 3. Doesn't have a metal gearbox as it claimed to have 4. It's basically shit 5. YOU WILL SUFFER 6. Terrible upgrade platform 7. The internals are proprietary, although it will take A LOT of modding to fit other product brands. PROS: 1. The unique barrel is actually alright ..... that's it. My rating: -9999/10 But seriously, it's a bad gun overall. What kind of a stupid dumbass would buy a shitty AK47 made by a shitty brand who claim it to have a metal gearbox? Seriously? Oh wait, that would be me. EDIT: Also forgot to mention that when the spur gear made the horrible grinding noise in my plastic gearbox, I replaced it with the old plastic spur gear which was still intact surprisingly; it still had most of it's adult teeth, until I put it in the gearbox and ran a test.... You can probably guess what happened when 2 metal gears collide with a plastic one.... yerp, that's right, the plastic one died instantly on the pull of the trigger... Also, from then on after I got the CYMA gearbox, I have upgraded it on the way quite a bit; I've changed the piston head, cylinder and the o-rings and now the air seal is so tight that if you put the nozzle in your nostril and pull the piston, IT WILL suck out all the bogies and shit your nose has been collecting for many years. Then you can push the piston through again to create a bogie blaster to annoy your siblings. Other upgrades are; changed the stock bevel gear for a steel one from Airsoft-Club (as you can tell from now, i'm quite fond of that website) which has more surface area for the pinion gear to cling onto for a good turn. Gears have also been shimmed perfectly; the stock gears had so much wobble you could probably use them as maracas. Also got rid of the weird green lubricant that they used and replaced it with good quality silicon grease. Also put a washer on the plastic spring guide and I guess I don't need to buy a metal spring guide since this one is still pretty intact. Done some more stuff to it but can't remember from the top of my head.... So in the future, I am planning to either sell it or buy a G&P metal body and front end kit for it so that I can finally use my CYMA hop up chamber and gain full auto again. But i'm not sure that original DE mag will fit and feed.... SO! FOR ALL YOU KIDS OUT THERE, DON'T EVER BUY THIS GUN! IF YOU HAVE THIS GUN ALREADY, GET RID OF IT! THROW IT IN THE TRASH, INCINERATE IT, OR SELL IT TO SOMEONE BEFORE THE GEARS DESTROY THEMSELVES BECAUSE YOU WILL BE IN A WHOLE WORLD OF SHIT ONCE THE GEARBOX DECIDES TO GO KABOOOM. IT WILL RUIN YOUR LIVES! THE GRIM REAPER OF AIRSOFT GUNS WILL HAUNT YOU! KILL IT WITH FIRE!!!!!!!
  22. 14 points
    Some of you know how passionate I am about the VCRA, so I was shocked to find these in one of their stores today: I've already prepared this news story for publication in the Daily Mail: Morrisons Super Black Market - by Victorya Ukipy The well known UK supermarket 'Morrisons' has introduced a new line: deadly firearms for children. For just £3 our reporter was able to purchase these two replica firearms. The guns are exact models of the powerful Glock 19mm that is used by police armed response teams and the MP5 assault rifle machine gun that was famously used by Osama bin Laden. Most shockingly of all our reporter was not even asked for a UKARA license to purchase these guns, which is a legal requirement in the UK. Outside he asked one of the Morrisons employees to explain how this was the case, however the employee failed to answer questions such as: 'don't you think there's a risk that kids might fill these with acid and shoot each other? Or that they might fill them with petrol and then fire them into the engines of cars that are only supposed to be filled with diesel?' The employee's comment was simply: "I don't know mate, I just get paid to push the trolleys." Well, as our investigation has shown, that's not all they're pushing. They're also pushing death on our kids. They may also have something to do with the rise in illegal immigration. Our investigation continues.
  23. 13 points
    My name is Enid and I have a problem.......... I have always been pretty obsessive when I get into a hobby BMX , RC Cars , Motor Cycles , Watches , Paintball, Downhill Mountain Bikes, Land Rover Defenders But now it’s Airsoft...……….. This habit is relatively new to me My “Pusher” introduced me to my new habit only 9 months ago, and I am now what I would class as an “addict” I hold a position of Management , and find myself browsing forums & searching for the next Pew-Pew whilst at work. I have to close browser windows when somebody walks into my office. I have positioned my desk so as staff can’t see what I am really doing , when I should be working out margins and reports I sneak off to the loo and watch Airsoft related videos on YouTube after supper I have parcels delivered to work or my in-laws to stop my Mrs finding out I am buying more stuff. I give my co players the money to buy me items , to not get joint PayPal notifications to my wife’s phone I have a beer on my evening off and have my AEG balanced on the table to admire whilst watching an action movie or the Punisher. Im desperately trying to introduce work colleagues to the sport , to share my pains! My name is Enid , and I have a problem 🤦🏻‍♂️
  24. 13 points
    Immortal

    What are you looking for in Airsoft?

    I'd like a few local villages to be seized, evacuated and turned into game zones. Perhaps just designate a new county, the County of PewPew where you drive in and game on till you leave the borders. Stuff like that really...
  25. 13 points
    Prisce

    What's wrong in Airsoft (positive)

    All of the above can be summed up in 1 word. People. The same thing that is wrong with absolutely everything.
  26. 13 points
    Hi all, This will be brief as I'm quite tired. Sorry. Today of all days for the site to go down was the worst as I was away from my PC and laptop (doesn't usually happen - especially on a work day). Whilst I noticed the issue this morning, I had literally 20 minutes to fix it before having to go (and only just had time to post a Facebook announcement). I'm terribly sorry for the downtime - shouldn't happen and wasn't server related (rather software related). Anyhoo, Devastator lent and a hand and together we've sifted through the logs: This would appear to be related to the existing dark theme that we typically use. Have some other leads, but they're mostly speculation at this time so won't share them as doubtless many will be dead-ends. I'll update this thread when I have more tomorrow. Until then, browse on the really bad default Invision Power Board theme and appreciate how far we've come in being able to browse with a theme that's not quite as piss poor. Thanks.
  27. 13 points
    L3wisD

    The 'What have you just bought' Thread

    I've just bought a Tippmann M4 setup from a certain member on here. Just without the long keymod and silencer. The wife was very happy to hear this news. It's ok, I actually like sleeping on the sofa.
  28. 13 points
    M_P

    The Beginners Guide to Airsoft

    The Beginners Guide To Airsoft Before you go off and start buying anything, the best thing to do is to go and play a few games first, that'll let let you know how you want to play and if it is something that you are sure that you want to spend money on- an believe me this is not a cheap sport, so you're better off making sure that it's something you want to commit to. YOUR GUN Now it is first important to understand that getting a specialised rifle, such as a sniper rifle is NOT a good idea as newer players often quickly become bored or annoyed at not having the adaptability of other rifles available. You're much better off starting out with a more basic rifle which you can adapt later on. This is undoubtedly the part of your kit that you want the most, and it’s important to choose the right one for you as you will be using this lot, you should take time choosing one that right for you There are many types of guns, as you should already know, but choosing a good gun to start with narrows it down a bit. Ideally you need one where you can easily get spares and upgrades very easily.Readily available magazines are also an important factor to take into account, as you won't want to be caught short. The best guns that match these criteria are: M4's G36's MP5's And AK47's. You should NOT get a GBBR (gas blow-back rifle) for your first gun as they require more maintenance and looking after than AEG's (automatic electric guns, they can also be very temperamental unless it's a well set up or high end one. Magazines are also very expensive and the cost of gas can make these expensive to run. These are guns recommended to new players. The low end, cheap recommended makes are: For M4's: classic army sportline, ICS plastic series and g&g- more specifically the combat machine range are very good. For G36's: SRC or jing gong, however JG ones are becoming harder to find nowadays. For MP5's: classic army sportline, ICS plastic or the cheaper G&G one, which from reports is a very good gun. For AK's: Classic army, G&G and Cyma all do different variants of these, the CYMA's in particular are very good for the low price. These are all good versions of each of the guns that won't hurt the wallet, they won't be up to the same standards as their more expensive counterparts, however they do contain a lot of the same parts (internally at least). If you have a larger budget, the G&G, ICS AND G&P M4's are well worth looking at. For mp5's the new ICS mxp5 pro are brilliant, as will be the G&G range. And Kwa g36's are a solid choice as are Classic army. Anything for Tokyo Marui will be a good choice, though a lot of their range has plastic externals, as opposed to metal. When you choose your gun you should also think about where you will be playing For example, if you play mainly indoors or CQB sites, you will probably benefit from a smaller shorter gun as it will be much easier to maneuver about with. Magazines You need to decide what magazines you want- low, mid or high capacity. High caps have wheels on the bottom that you have to wind before firing but you get much more rounds in them normally between 300 and 450 Mid caps have no winding, but are loaded from a speed loader and hold from 75 to around 150 rounds. And lows have no winding, but are loaded from a speed loader and generally hold from around 30-50 A high cap winding wheel Batteries should also be taken into consideration, do you want a larger one that'll last all-day but need a large place to put it or smaller ones that don't need a full stock or to be seen. Larger batteries are often put inside full, solid stock whereas the smaller types are normally kept in hand guards, allowing you to use a smaller or retractable stock- this may be beneficial to smaller players. A standard, mini type battery Your physical size maybe an issue with choosing a gun too. If you're of a smaller build, an MP5 will probably be better suited to you than a solid stock M4 for example. SNIPER RIFLES I cant stress this enough, getting a sniper rifle for your first gun isn't the most sensible idea, it greatly limits the possibilities of what you can do with your gun and means you can't adapt to different situations as well as others will be able to. This is bad for new players as sniping is slow and you need a lot of patience, it is also frustrating being able to only use single shot guns. It is common for people to get bored of them after 1 or two games before selling them and then having to pay more to get an AEG instead. That's enough for rifles for now; let's move on to pistols, and handguns PISTOLS Ok firstly it is important to note that getting a pistol as a beginner it won’t see much use unless you specifically set out to use it, you will likely be better off spending any money you have for a pistol on either A: a better rifle or B: magazines/batteries/accessories for your primary weapon. There are many makes of pistols, as well as variants and designs. Again if you are choosing a pistol you should spend time thinking about what type and model you want.They come in man shapes and sizes and so lon as you buy from a reputable brand such as Tokyo Marui or KWA, you can't go far wrong. A standard M1911, a relatively common side-arm. Tokyo Marui, are usually a very good choice when it comes to pistols. When it comes to reliability they are second to none, however expect to pay more than you would for other makes to get one. They normally have plastic slides but they are great quality and the plastic slider have a great finish. KWA's newer range of pistols are full metal and are highly regarded, if you would prefer a full metal one then checking out these is a good place to start. Ammunition The BB's you choose to use can affect the performance of your gun, and it is best to try and find the best for you and the are always conflicting arguements over which gives the most range. Firstly, NEVER, EVER USE 0.12g BB'S OR ANY WEIGHT LESS THAN 0.2G 0.2g are the lightest that you realistically want to be using and are also the cheapest to buy. However due to being lighter, they wont carry the same momentum as slightly heavier ammo. It's worth try some .2g's, .23g's and .25g's. that way you can try some of each to see which performs best in your rifle. Heavier weights will also increase the accuracy of your gun. If you have a higher than normal FPS due to having a semi locked DMR or a sniper rifle you will probably find that an even heavier weight will have a better affect on accuracy- for exaple at 425 fps i would suggest that .30g or .36g BB's would give better performance for your gun. Another thing with choosing your ammo is the make/brand. Excel, Blaster and Guarder are well known as quality BB manufacturers for decent prices. Performance I'll keep this very simple and just explain a couple of parts that change the performance. Range and accuracy are gained by a few key areas in the guns. Range, is mainly affected by the Hop-Up. This is the device that the BB's are fed through before being fired out. This provides backspin on the round and will increase the range dramatically by doing so. Accuracy can be gained by adding a new, higher quality barrel. They can be bought with different diameters and lengths to suit different guns. It can also be gained by (as said previously) using heavier ammo. Glasses, goggles and face protectors. This is the single most important piece of kit you will own, do not cheap out. They WILL save your eyes one day. We were all new once, so I understand people not wanting to fork out on expensive face protection as it can be expensive. Do not be lead down this road, you only get one pair of eyes. The safety ratings/marking you should have on the eyeware are: ANSI Z87 (US Safety rating) or EN166 (European Rating also known as BS EN 166:2002) This will show that they have been approved and safe for use. People need to understand that there are some dangers to this sport, as with any other. On a lighter note I recommend For glasses ESS ice 2.4, or 3.0 both are brilliant and not too expensive. They can be found on ebay for good prices. Masks, with plastic windows aren't very helpful, they tend to steam up and be a general pain, I suggest using the black bear mesh masks as I have seen them shrug off multiple high powered shots in quick succession and that is what a good masks should be capable of. here is a link to firesupports black bear selection Other good products are heroshark’s mesh equipment which are brilliant. Always wear your eye protection when outside of the safe zone. Your site will make it clear to you when you can take them off. Boots These are another extremely important item that should not be skimped out on, everyone has different tastes in boots etc, so I can't say the single best make. What I would do is try waking boots, anything with good ankle support and/or head to your local army surpluses store and check their stuff out. Magnum, Lowa and Oakley are all good makes, however looking at them in person will probably be best for you. Tactical vests, rigs and equipment. If you are new and just starting, the best vest for you I think will be a viper vest, they are cheap at less than £30 but will do the job until you fork out for a higher end product. I have seen many of the older players using these and I have used one myself. This is a viper vest you can get for £20-30 Combats/BDU's (battle dress uniform) Quite simple really, head to your local surplus store and pick up some DPM's (disruptive pattern material)- the older British army style which can be found very cheap, look on ebay too as there will always be some on the cheap there. If you want a specific type of camo, Google is your friend. Look on land warrior airsoft too as they have a selection of more uncommon unique camo styles on there for decent prices. These are good for teams to looks unique and as a group as most of these are not bought by most people. Most tend to buy Multicam/DPM etc. DPM ubacs (under body armour combat shirt) Another popular camo- multicam Radios Radios can be a really useful asset to a team but choosing a good one can be hard. I find that the Motorola tlkr series are good and the t5's which i believe are the cheapest at £50 for two. These are good and will be all you need. Gun Bag/Case These are quite important if you are going to be moving your gun in public. You don't want to be seen carrying guns in public, as you might have a run in with the police, which no one wants. They can be found for good prices on various sites. Viper make a few for relatively cheap too. This is all you really need for your main set of equipment. However you may want a helmet, or other things, in this case it is more or less up to you as there is probably a certain style you want. Although there are some good looking makes on fire-support. The VCRA, UKARA and Two-tones. This section will briefly cover what you need to know about the laws concerning airsoft. If you have further questions, we have a section for them here So, this will quickly run through what you need to know. You cannot buy any gun at all unless you are over 18. No exceptions. If you are over 18, you can buy a Two-tone rifle (IF-imitational firearm), which will be predominantly be painted in a bright colour. If you are over 18 AND HAVE A VALID DEFENCE you can then, and only then buy a realistic coloured gun (RIF-realistic imitational firearm) A valid defence is something that proves that you are a regular Airsofter and will allow you to buy an RIF. The easiest and most common way of doing this is by becoming a member at a UKARA registered site and being put on the UKARA database. This system is to defend retailers by showing them who is a regular player.
  29. 13 points
    Dredd

    Gun picture thread

    Started this sport nearly 2 years ago got very addicted very quickly not only to the rush but also to owning rifs, first few pics are of many of the rifs I used to own since moving back with the wife and having to thin down I still have what I think are some great pieces of kit but always looking to add
  30. 13 points
    Monty

    Known scammers - Updated 30/12/2016

    JamesG: Also known as Steve203, has scammed numerous users on Zero-in and on here, he's chosen to ignore people trying to contact him on both forums too. I've removed all his sales threads for the time being. http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/33839-jamesg-aka-steve203-aka-stephen-glennie-is-a-scammer/ Airsoftman112: took my money then refused to refund me: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/24046-airsoftman112/?hl=airsoftman112 FlapJack: also under the names: Iron Man, jairsoft101. Is also active on ZeroIn http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/25654-do-not-buy-from-flapjack/?hl=flapjack Liam237: blatantly obvious that the user took photos from other sales threads. Worst attempt at scamming I've ever seen. After some research, this user has attempted to scam people on another forum back in 2013. He goes by 'Liam Hunt' and 'Liam Watkinson', also uses countless emails. Read this thread: http://forums.zeroin.co.uk/showthread.php?189082-liam5755/page2&highlight=liam237 SimonQuigley: this situation is old, a user on here purchased a rail from Simon, Simon made excuses to not send off the item, kept the users money and disappeared from this forum with the users money. Page will be updated accordingly. Be careful out there folks.
  31. 13 points
    I'd like to start off this thread by saying that the pistols, rifles and shotguns that I recommend are, and always will be, from my own experience of using them and by popular opinion from regular users on here, other forums and other reputable sources. This thread will also be updated over time. The amount of threads I keep seeing about this subject literally popping up every other week is getting a tad bit annoying, so, I figured I'd create this thread to save people from repeating themselves. So, you're a new player looking for a decent gun hmm? You have a set budget for a gun that will be suitable for skirmishing and won't break anytime soon. If you have a budget of £20 - £60, these guns will do just fine. Primarily gas and spring. - Any Double Eagle/AGM single-shot shotgun: These things have good range with .25g BB's and don't shoot above site limits, for around £30 you can't go wrong. Bison shotguns are a good option if you prefer a different look. - Any Double Eagle tri-shot shotgun: Like the single-shot shotguns, these also have good range but cost slightly more (around £50.) Do not purchase the Marui tri-shots new because, personally, the quality is on par with the Double Eagle tri-shots, not worth above £100. Cyma make metal tri-shot shotguns with folding stocks, full stocks, stockless and all metal or polymer for under or a bit over £100 depending on the model. G&P shotguns are outdated and overpriced, avoid. - ASG, KJWorks, HFC MK23: Absolutely the best gas pistol for under £70, very efficient, accurate and cheap to buy. The included 'silencer' will increase the FPS, try to find the Marui silencer to make it deadly silent. - Cyma AEP's: Like the MK23, these AEPs are excellent for the money, reliable gearboxes, some upgrade options out there on sites such as Eagle6 and Firesupport, magazines are very cheap, LiPo kits are also available and are a worthy upgrade. - HFC gas pistols: These are OK for around £30, average accuracy and gas efficiency, plastics used aren't great BUT the pistols are rugged enough for skirmishing, but they won't stand up to long-term use, consider saving up for the MK23. If you have a budget of £60 - £100, this is an ok budget for a gun. - KJWorks P226, Glocks, M9s and 1911s: These guns are absolutely solid, will last a long time if taken care of. Good kick, average gas efficiency due to metal construction, fully Marui compatible. These are capable of using Co2, but is strongly advised due to inconsistent FPS. Magazines are poor quality and WILL leak during your ownership, replacing them with Marui magazines is advised. The paint that is used is very easily chipped. - WE Glocks, P226, M9s, XDMs and PX4's: Like KJWorks pistols, these pistols are very solid performers and are reliable, average gas efficiency and good range. Avoid purchasing second hand, these pistols are usually very well used in their lifetime, check the condition of the pistol before considering purchasing. The Glocks are slightly fatter than the real thing, so as such, they do not fit most plasic holsters, either trim the holster or purchase an adjustable cloth holster. The paint on the pistols is slightly better than the KJWorks, but will still easily be scratched off. - ASG Dan Wesson revolvers: These guns are reliable, but have no hop up, so they lack range. Only capable of holding 6 rounds, these are not suitable for skirmishing due to the lack of range and the inconsistent FPS. Good, realistic backyard plinkers for collectors. - JG Skorpion, Mac 10: These are very reliable and rugged AEP's, clones of the Marui so plenty of upgrade options and magazines online from sites such as Eagle6. You will be outgunned by regular AEG's such as Combat Machines however due to the small gearbox and weak motor. Will make a decent side arm if using a high-capacity magazine. - Well R4 & R2: Decent AEP's, on par with JG. Clones of the Marui, so upgrade options are available. The plastic Well use for the AEPs are very poor, and will shatter under heavy use. The R4's magazine release will snap if used a lot, so take care. Please consider the JG over the Well if possible. If you have a set budget from £100 - £200, the options are essentially endless. This is the budget you need for a good reliable gun. Spring guns aren't included on this list as you'll end up spending more than you'll realise when you end up upgrading them. AEGS: - Any: G&G Combat Machines/GC16, Cyma AK's/Mp5's/M14's, JG G36/AUG/AK's/G3s, ICS M4's/Mp5's(Sportline)/AK's/G33/Sigs/Mx5's, Classic Army Mp5's/M4's/AK's/P90, SRC G36's, ASG Sten-gun/MP40/MP44/AUGs(JG)/M14(Cyma), APS AK's, King Arms P90 and D-Boys KAC/AK's. Pistols: - Any: Tokyo Marui gbb pistols! Their Hi-capas, Glocks, M9's and 1911's have the most after market parts. KWA/KSC pistols are also very good, the Glocks are extremely robust apart from the full auto versions due to their weak fire selector. Marui pistols will work fine on propane/green gas, though I wouldn't recommend using propane/green gas in them on warm days, stick to HFC gas instead. KWA/KSC gbb's have inferior hop up designs, as the 'nub' that is used to apply pressure is just a tiny ball bearing, whereas in the Marui pistols, they use VSR buckings and regular nubs. "Why aren't sniper rifles/DMR's included?" . Spring guns aren't included on this list as you'll end up spending more than you realise when you start upgrading them to 'outperform everyone on the field'. DMR's are just AEG's; put an oversized scope on an unweildy rifle and you've got a DMR. If you have a set budget above £200 to £300, any AEG will do. Consider Krytac AEG's as they're very well shimmed and have excellent air compression. If you like realism, try gas blowback rifles such as WE/GHK/KJWorks, the WE's will definitely require upgrading for long-term use, also consider HPA use for consistency (or Tippman M4's). If you don't like the idea of buying gas but still want the realism, consider the Marui recoil shock series or CTW's. Hope this helps!
  32. 13 points
    If your trousers cost more than your gun then you're probably playing milsim.
  33. 13 points
    Lozart

    Photos from the field

    Bloody chairsofters....
  34. 13 points
    Monty

    Load-Out / Loadout Picture topic

    Chav loadout..
  35. 13 points
    Recently I've realised that I generally come in from a night out with more than few loose £1 coins in my pockets, even if I don't drink. It's all down to being lazy and paying for everything with a note until the notes run out. Since I budget a set amount for a night out anyway, that money as far as my monthly plan goes is already 'spent' What happens then is those £1 coins sit in my pockets and get frittered away on useless shit like cans of coke or chocolate bars and other things that aren't good for me anyway! So I've decided that's no way to live, I'm going to harness my lazyness and save all of those £1 coins. I've called it the PTW fund but I don't think I'll ever buy a Systema, it just alliterates with pockets. What will I spend this money on? Who knows, but it'll be something expensive I'm sure... by the time I've filled a couple of these bottles there should be some serious spending power which otherwise would have just gone on tooth decay and early middle age spread! Ladies and gentlemen, I give you... THE PISS HEAD'S POCKETS PTW FUND! (don't tell my girlfriend, it'll be the holiday fund instead)
  36. 12 points
    Druid799

    Gun picture thread

    TM recoil G36k KSK inspired build complete (for now anyway, may get an IDZ stock or may not) ! happy chap .😁
  37. 12 points
    Just to follow this up for some closure: It turns out it was actually Duff with a sleeper account. Jedi has authorised the use of the ban hammer once more.
  38. 12 points
    Wear what you like but if you go with beret/insignia/rank tags etc then that's when people start to get a bit funny... best off just going down the route of kit and not anything else. General rule of thumb is, If you haven't earned it you have no right to wear it IMO.
  39. 12 points
    DarkAssassin

    Gun picture thread

    We Scar H Daytona gun, love it but hate the only QD point on the rear of the ACR stock.... So I made one to fit. Ah that's better, works like a charm.
  40. 12 points
    Druid799

    Airsoft tantrums

    Did once flip out Big time at a CQB site , Guy was hooning around with this monstrous dildo slapping people with it shouting “cock kill !” As he did it , Catches me , I “f**k sake mate !” Him and he then starts of about “you can’t take it cos I took you out with a big rubber cock ! you too operator for that ? ! “ I replied “no the fact it’s a big rubber dick has nothing to do with it , it’s the fact it f**king hurt !” (I do think things like this are funny) he then makes the monument mistake of saying “oh it don’t hurt that much man up !” Now this is the point I really loose it , if there’s one phrase that presses the big red button for me it ‘man up’ when some spunktrumpet has hurt another player but rather than say sorry they try to belittle the player who’s complained . So I reply with “fine give it here and I’ll slap you with it then tell me to man up !” Of course he won’t hand it over , now there’s a bit of an crowd forming as I’m a tad loud by now , a couple of his mates then say “go on let I’m take swing at you or you too much of a pussy ?” Or something along those lines , he hands it over I swing it at his thigh it connects and he drops to the floor like a sack of shit screaming ! Now I must admit I did put a bit of omph in to it (and the swing was powered by my righteous indignation at his attitude) but I know I shouldn’t have really hit him as hard as I could (with out showing it) or gone off at him the way I did but sometimes it just has to be done .
  41. 12 points
    It shall henceforth be known as "Mack's Law" For example: Find "£" £ = Cost of Gun when new -10% + RRP of "upgrades" x11.5% A CM16 RAIDER S with a cheap red dot and a nuprol silencer and vertical grip would then be: £132 -10% = £118.80 +£30 red dot +£9 grip +£9.99 = £167.79 x11.5% = £187.09 Sounds about right to me
  42. 12 points
    GearTech

    Gun picture thread

    These are my 2 new personal pew pews that I will be trying out at NSC up here in 't North East. Both Specna Arms. Hoping the 14 year old lad will pop along too.
  43. 12 points
    Thanks again to you all for your encouragement. I'm going to give it a go.
  44. 12 points
    Ethon

    Gun picture thread

    Just finished my mk14 project
  45. 12 points
    AIRSOFT Vs MILSIM: Perspectives & Evolution as a Player
  46. 12 points
    ImTriggerHappy

    To give strangers BBs or not

    Cant believe this is really a question. I have given bbs, tracer bbs, various batteries, pyro and I even gave a kid my back up aeg because I felt sorry for him even chucked in two batteries and charger. Maybe I am too generous but one day it might come back around.
  47. 12 points
  48. 12 points
  49. 12 points
    Qlimax

    BRITISH AIRSOFT CLUB ANNOUNCEMENT.....

    So after all the messages that have been posted here it is, its not even exciting it's just they could ruin airsoft for us all if they continue. So most of you have heard of BAC and if you go on their website it talks to talks and appears to walk the walk. So I applied to membership and it was accepted but all seemed to be done a little to fast. Which got me thinking that considering that amount of checks they claim to make it was all a lilttle fast so I made her up. BELOW Completely fake not even a real person, submitted an application and sent a completely fake ukara email over to which contained a site that isn't even active nor has anyone played on it for a year or more and hasn't been UKARA for 2 yrs. so NO WAY should a defense been accepted for this person not if all their checks were done as they claim they are but OH SHITE BAG I received this...... ACCEPTED. pay my subscription and membership card will be in the post WOW. what a joke. now some of you may say well what you have done is wrong and out of order but if i can do this being an HONEST AIRSOFT PLAYER then what's stopping a thug from doing this and then being able to buy RIF's for illegal purposes. Now you might also ask why a girl well that's to prove I have NO intension of using this nor am i going to pay for this either. So i put it to everyone. There checks are poor, they validate anyone and take all info you as GOLD AND HONEST but lets face it there's more than a fair share of people out there that simply aren't HONEST. UKARA alternative my ARSE.
  50. 12 points
    Ian_Gere

    Load-Out / Loadout Picture topic

    My Bolshoi Spetsnaz Loadout
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