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mightyjebus last won the day on October 26 2016

mightyjebus had the most liked content!

About mightyjebus

  • Rank
    AF-UK Regular

Profile Information

  • Guns
    too many
  • Loadouts
    Multicam/Multisham/Kryptek/Russian/WW2/Smooth operator
  • Sites
    Combat South
  • Gender

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  1. mightyjebus

    Where to buy CTW parts?

  2. mightyjebus

    Gun picture thread

    was upgrading some of my AK's today with the Ares high torque motor and slim grip and since the weather was nice decided to take a few snaps. VFC AK74 and VFC AKS74. I still think VFC make the nicest looking AK74's. G&G AKMS with 40 round magazine and a Inokatsu AKM.
  3. mightyjebus

    Gun picture thread

    just finished the L119A2 and messing around with the 17L
  4. mightyjebus

    Been offered a Systema PTW MAX 12 for my vector...

    we I guess I'm that "type" of person. I own around 4 PTW, a couple DTW's, a A&K TW, a Celcius PTW and a Celcius AKM TW. Out the box they have the best trigger response of any M4 AEG. I know as I have around 260 AEG's. The DTW is miles cheaper than a TM recoil M4 and has a better trigger response. It's a copy of the Systema PTW but works well. This kinda defeats your argument about a special kind of people being touched in the head who buy a AEG that performs better than a standard AEG because of the price. Ask anyone who has owned and used a PTW/DTW/etc and they will tell you that it's by far the best trigger response on an AEG out there. You can get similar performance out of a normal AEG if you fit a mosfet, particularly the TM recoils with a BTC Spectre fitted. I know this as I have 7 or 8 recoils and at least 4 of them have spectres fitted. The PTW's aren't the best AEG as they suffer from a bad hop design and when they have problems they are expensive to fix. On the plus side they come with changeable cylinders which means you can go from 300 FPS to 370 FPS in about 2 minutes. The only other AEG that I have that has a similar trigger response, straight out the box, is the Evo Scorpion but since that's not a M4 platform that alone will put people off from buying them. You really shouldn't base your opinion on limited knowledge.
  5. mightyjebus

    Identifying an old MP5

    it looks like an ICS MP5. The give away is the fins on the pistol grip base. *upgrades - Mosfet, tightbore and give the gearbox a good clean. Might want to swap out the hop rubber if it's very old (Guarder being a good choice).
  6. mightyjebus

    Airsoft Events Uk Directory

    Strikeforce CQB (Swindonairsoft) in Gloucester is a good site. 2 weeks ago they decided to allow short 1 second bursts which made for an excellent day. I didn't see any cheating/not taking hits and the games are fast and furious. Highly recommend a visit. BTW - I'm not affiliated with the site in ant way.
  7. mightyjebus

    Anyone used this Pistol?

    OEM is APS I believe. I have the Glock and it works well. If you just want a bog standard 1911 then buy a TM, if that's too pricy then get a KJW's one.
  8. mightyjebus

    TM HK416 Problems.

    This is a known fault with the NGRS's in semi auto. Only easy fix is to switch to full auto to clear it. If you want to get rid of it full time you need to fit a mosfet, Spectre (if you can find one) DTM (again if you can find one) or wait for the Gates Mosfet which should be out later this year. Your battery is probably fine.
  9. mightyjebus

    Gun picture thread

    it's on my list of things to do.....it's a big list and I'll get around to it eventually
  10. mightyjebus

    Gun picture thread

    yeah and that's where I got them from along with a couple of the sight rails
  11. mightyjebus

    Gun picture thread

    I think I still have about 8 of those FAMAS RIS rails floating about somewhere
  12. mightyjebus

    Gun picture thread

    work in progress: TM M4 NGRS converted to a L119A2 Long. Parts - Angry Gun Long L119A2 rail SF Slash hider Suppressor low profile gas block Laylax blank lower receiver G&P LMT Pistol grip AFG-2 Acog with RDS Magpul sling adapter Magul stock magic pin fitted to upper and lower receiver Work done so far: Modded GBB Magpul sling adapter to fit NGRS (basically dremel the bejesus out of it) Modded stock pad to accept Lipo (Stock will be changed to the correct tan one when it arrives) added extra rail cutout on top of upper receiver modeled a C7 cocking handle and 3D printed as a prototype and making sure its a good fit before getting some laser cut (green thing) Things still to do: fit the correct stock get the trades done add a 620V torch and dual switch for the torch and Peq fit a mosfet (BTC, DTM or Gates when they eventually release it) get the C7 lever laser cut
  13. mightyjebus

    Celcius AKM

    It's been a while since I've reviewed an AEG or pistol but it's now time for me to review the Celcius AKM. The last time I reviewed a Celcius product it didn't do too well but in fairness I try to be as open as possible with anything I review so if the AKM is good or bad I'll be as fair as I can. There is a little bit of general information to go through first before I start the review. The Celcius AKM comes in two flavours. You can buy a complete AKM with electrics and wooden furniture for $1000 or the other option is to buy the Expert Solution which is basically the AKM minus the motor, electrics and furniture. The selling point behind the second option is you can add whatever electronics and motor you want and stick on any RS AKM furniture. The Expert Solution costs around $488 and this is the option I will be looking at. If you buy the expert Solution version or just want to have a better look at how they go together then check out these 2 videos from Celcius: Video 1 Video 2 Ok on with the review. Let's start with a picture as we all like pictures. As you can see I've stepped away from the traditional wooden furniture look and went for something a bit more modern. The main reason for this was the Expert Solution (now known as ES from now on) comes with a Sliding stock adapter as standard. This adapter is Mil Spec so normal AEG sliding stocks will be too small to fit. I've replaced the rear sight with a RIS rail so that I could add a RMR and I've replaced the gas tube with a RIS version so that I can attach RIS attachments when I need to. The only other thing I will do to mine is add a RIS lower hand guard so that I can add a torch and vertical grip. If you want to fit your own handguards, stock, etc then any Real Steel furniture should be a straight fit. Starting at the front: The front sight, gas block and outer barrel are all steel. They are all pinned to the barrel as per the real thing and the finish is a nice blue/grey and should look good if artificial wear is applied to them (if you want that old skool look). next the gas block: Again full steel and nicely blued. There is absolutely no wobble on any of the parts (apart from the flash hider but I'll cover that later). The receiver: The receiver reminds me of the phosphate grey finish that is sometimes seen on USA made AK's. It's nice and even and should wear well. Pistol grip: Nice and thin just like the real thing but sadly you can't use the real thing. It actually holds the motor in place and needs to be seated against the trigger guard to work correctly. It's a little fiddly getting it just right but not the hardest thing in the world to do. On the ES version you get a black pistol grip and on the full AKM version you get a brown one although I think all they have done is paint a brown one black for the ES version. Stock adapter: As mentioned above it's Mil Spec and houses the mosfet and battery. It's actually nicely made and a 11v 25C LIPO fits in nearly all the way. Popping the top cover off the receiver is just like the real thing. You push the button at the rear and pull the top cover up and off. The spring that holds the top cover in place is actually the spring that powers the cylinder. To change the FPS of the cylinder it's a quick job to pop off the top cover, remove the spring from the top cover catch and pop a new spring in place. In the picture above you can see the cylinder. The large black lump is the cylinder and inside is a piston, piston head and special nozzle. I'll cover this in more detail later. The Hop unit is a rotary dial type and can be accessed from the magwell or if you cock the bolt back you can get your finger inside the receiver to adjust the wheel. Removing the cylinder involves removing to allen screws and the whole unti comes off to allow access to the lower part of the gearbox. I added a set of Etiny electrics apart from the selector board as the ES comes with this board installed and works with the Etiny electrics. You can use whatever electrics you want but it's worth remembering that if you use the Systema type then you need to change the trigger as the Celcius boards (and Etiny Celcius version) uses a smaller switch. You can find out more about this in the videos linked above. Looking at the cylinder next. The cylinder is solid lump of metal with a piston inside it. The piston looks to be a standard PTW piston so replacements shouldn't be an issue. The nozzle is a bit of a strange design but to make the cylinder line up with the barrel this was probably the only design that would work. You'll notice in one of the pictures above that there is a strange little silver bit with a grub screw pointing downwards on the bottom of the cylinder. This is the cut off lever and it should disengage the ECU when the magazine is empty and when you fit a new magazine you need to cock the bolt, which moves this part down and reengages the ECU. On mine this doesn't work very well. It's either the magnet that holds it up is too weak or the spring that pushes it down is too strong. I'm not to bothered about this feature and I've padded it out so that I don't have to cock the AEG every time I change the magazine. At some point I'll have another look and see if I can figure out which part is causing the slight problem but for now I can live without the feature. The fake bolt is actually 2 parts made to look like the bolt and the part that engages the magnetic switch is held in place by a stiff spring. If you decide to remove the inner barrel and hop unit then be prepared to completely strip the front end. You need to knock out the pins and remove the gas block and furniture. You end up with the bits in the picture below but to get the inner barrel out of the outer you need to remove the hop unit. it's all a bit complex so I'd only recommend doing it if you really need to. While I'm talking about the barrel, the inner barrel protudes slightly from the front of the outer barrel but is covered by the flash hider. On flash hider rattles a bit as the threads don't quite match with the stop catch. The easy fix is to fit a small O ring between the flash hider and the front sight to stop the rattle. The Magazine. The magazine holds around 100 BB's and seems well made. You can take the inner part of the magazine and insert it into a RS magazine shell without modification. This is a nice feature if you want to run Polymer, Bakelite or maybe something a bit more modern. You can see the inner sealed unit below. The part that disengaged the ECU can be seen in the next picture. So that's the kinda technical look done. The big question is how does it fire? Well frankly really well to be honest. Plug a battery in, lock a magazine in place, select fire and pull the trigger and it does. The FPS on mine without hop was about 290. I added a little spacer to the spring guide and this climbed to 320. I've ordered a M110 spring to try and push it to 345 unhopped. Talking of hop the hop unit this works really well. The gearbox sounds nice and crisp and the trigger response is very good as you would expect from a PTW. So in summery. It's a well designed, solid AEG and it's nice to have an OPFOR weapon that fires like a PTW. The option to buy a bare bones system is a nice idea and you can go crazy building your own unique AKM. It has two flaws that are more annoying that show stoppers. I've mentioned to cut off lever but I should mention that the selector lever moves about a bit when in the safe position. It won't suddenly jump to full auto as it doesn't move that much but there is some movement. It's probably fixable and when I get a chance I'll see what can be done to tighten it up. Would I recommend it? Yes. And lastly....... If you know your way around AEG's and PTW's then buy one and stick in the parts you want. There are no surprises when you try building one if you are used to PTW's. If you fancy a really nice firing AK but don't know your nozzle from your sprocket then get your local shop/tech to build it with the parts you want.