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About Cyberlawyer

  • Rank
    AF-UK Regular

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  • Guns
    MWS Mk18, MWS Mk12 DMR, WE 416 GBBR, NGRS 416 Devgru, NGRS 416c, WE Glocks
  • Loadouts
    Cry Multicam, with Warrior Tactical equipment.
  • Sites
    MPA Hockley
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  1. I have a polymer gas mag that I have used on my WE g17 and 19X. Short answer is they are total rubbish. Big benefit is they are much lighter, but the gas efficiency is appalling. When your Gas mag feels really cold this is actually a result of the mag absorbing heat from your hands and the surroundings (kind of the opposite of a heat sink in a PC). This actually increases the temperature of the gas in the mag reducing cool down effect. The insulating properties of the polymer mags mean this doesn’t happen.
  2. Well everyone’s purchases are way more exciting than mine. This weeks purchases have been limited to a new hop rubber and a can of tan Krylon spray paint. On the upside this will give me something to do over the bank holiday weekend, but nowhere near as much fun as the posts above.
  3. I had the WE F18 (this is the WE version of the M18, which is the compact version of the M17). generally it was a very good gun, it cycled well, shot nicely and I really liked the grip angle. I also really liked the takedown procedure. On the down side the height of the bore above the grip was huge so it wasn’t very “pointable” and the extended mags actually hold less BBs than the short mags so they are really just for looks. In the end I got rid of it as it didn’t do anything my Glock didn’t do as well or better and I’m much more used to Glocks.
  4. When you upgraded the slide did you upgrade the recoil spring at the same time? If so try going back to the stock spring, the upgraded one might be too stiff. What gas are you using. If you are using duster gas you may need to upgrade to green gas to get the heavier slide to cycle. You shouldn’t need more than green gas so If green gas isn’t working the slide is fowling somewhere.
  5. First I assume you mean the SA-S03 bolt action sniper rifle. Hard to be sure without a bit more information. Do you mean on the first try nothing happened (no sound of firing) at all on pulling the trigger and then on the second time it fired 2 BBs? Assuming this to be the case and on the basis your post suggests it only happened once, my best guess is the first time you pulled the bolt back far enough to load a BB but not far enough to engage the trigger sear so the piston went forward when you closed the bolt (I.e. user error). If you are sure you pulled the bolt back far enough and keeps happening there might be an issue with the trigger sear being worn. If it did make a sound then my next guess is a feeding issue. These are more complicated to solve. But I’d start with the magazine (do you have another you can try). Move on to the feed ram on the bolt (Is it deformed or broken) and finally look at the hop unit (feed ramp and hop rubber being most likely). This is a bit of guess work without more info, but I’d start there.
  6. If you are super impatient then this is a reasonable interim stand in for a couple of quid. The brass one is better though so I’d still swap it out eventually. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Airsoft-Pro-Stability-H-Nub-Softair/dp/B07SQFBK66/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=hop+nub&qid=1589243676&sr=8-3
  7. Standard hop with the brass nub seems to be the consensus choice. Having tried a few I haven’t had anything that performs better.
  8. My thoughts: 1. put a compensator on it so you can install a longer inner barrel. 2. put a longer tight bore inner barrel in it to increase FPS. 3. fit a maple leaf hop unit and rubber. (50 deg autobot or deception are both a good call) 4. Replace rear sight with a mounting plate and red dot. leave everything else alone unless something breaks.
  9. Cyberlawyer

    We Scar L

    Ripped/badly seated hop rubber? Although it would have to be really knackered for BBs to just be rolling out of the barrel. Usually you would notice a drop in power range and inconsistent accuracy and FPS first.
  10. I stepped away for 20 years before coming back. It really didn’t take that much adjustment. The biggest changes for me were: 1. LiPo batteries (but I was familiar with them from running RC cars). 2. The prevalence of metal receivers in all but the cheapest guns (this was a very high end or after market option when I started). 3. Marui NGRS. 4. programmable mosfets. 5. Generally the fact that stuff that would have cost £400-500 in 1998 gets is arse kicked by a £175.00 gun now. 6. There was no VCRA or two tone guns. We just bought whatever we wanted and could afford.
  11. The MWS is a great choice. The layout of the internals is less like the real steel than the GHK, but it by far the most skirmishable GBBR out of the box. Love mine. Have fun buying all the mags 🤪. In all seriousness you will need at least 4 plus a speed loader if you are very careful with ammo. Post people agree 7 is the sweet spot. I love longer games, am partial to a bit of burst fire and hate rattly speed loaders hence 13 mags...
  12. Given the choices in the original post you would be better off throwing the BBs. I agree With others either be prepared to spend a bit more or don’t get a pistol. cheapest pistol I would ever recommend is the WE G17 Gen 3, Which is generally available for £99 all over the place. I know a lot of people don’t like WE, but this is a genuinely decent pistol for a secondary, and is a huge upgrade over the two original options. Yes a TM will out shoot it from the box, but will cost around 40% more and it is pretty easy and cheap to upgrade the WE if you want more performance (obviously you can also upgrade a TM).
  13. Those findings are very interesting. I have no way of doing any controlled testing at measured ranges beyond about 55-60m (I use 50m as a nice standard range, makes some of the maths I do easier). During lockdown it’s more like 20m 😭. I’d say I can get a good clean torso hit out to well beyond 75m, but I have no means to verify or test with multiple barrels as I’m usually at a skirmish. I may have to invest in a range finder then at least I can accurately verify shot distance at skirmishes (I assume walking towards someone you have just shot with a surveyors tape measure would not go down well 🤪).
  14. They are VSR cut, but some fit better than others as the specification varies between suppliers. I have found Maple Leaf Crazy Jets to be a good fit.
  15. I am interested in why this is believed to be the case. I have had 250, 370 and 455 mm barrels (all Maple leaf Crazy Jets if it makes a difference) in my MWS at various points and still have each of these barrels in a GBBR (the 370 is in a WE 416) and at the same FPS (350) I couldn’t tell any meaningful difference in accuracy at 10, 25 or 50m (for me this was the most compelling argument for my MK18 build as there was no performance detriment to the shorter barrel). As far as I am aware assuming the barrels are true with minimal imperfections barrel length shouldn’t make any difference provided it is long enough for the BB to stabilise in the air flow. The only difference I am aware of is longer barrels will produce increased FPS provided there is sufficient gas volume released.
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