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SeniorSpaz87 last won the day on March 26

SeniorSpaz87 had the most liked content!


About SeniorSpaz87

  • Birthday 23/05/1997

Profile Information

  • Guns
    VFC M27 LE w/ VIRGO
    Daytona VFC M27 IAR
    Bingo Stoner 63a
    SV-98 (VSR-X)
    Junkiez SR-25
  • Loadouts
    Kryptek Highlander
    Multicam Tropic
  • Sites
    The Mall (UK) RIP
    904 Tactical (FL)
    Combat City (FL)
    CZ Paintball (FL)
    Airsoft Barracks (FL)
    Battalion (FL)
    ATC (GA)
    JCT Plant (SC)
    Nashville Airsoft (TN)
    Bad Karma Airsoft (TN)
  • Gender
  • Location
    Brentwood, TN, USA
  • Interests
    WWII, video games, WT, WoT, WoWS, airsoft, shooting, tanks, guns in general, Airsoft, tech work, building PCs, making YouTube videos (not that I'm any good ;) )

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SeniorSpaz87's Achievements

  1. Ill wear country and service patches at most. Never rank or insignia you havent earned. But TBH, its airsoft. Everyone knows its just fancy dress up in the end. Dont go all Stolen Valor and youll be fine
  2. One of my 417s, featuring my WIP HK417 drum design. I could use some suggestions on how to two-tone it up more, as its good up front but id like to add some FDE towards the rear. The G28 grip wont work, already tried (different design for some reason).
  3. Several test prints later, and a few changes were made. The screw hole has been enlarged for the bolt to pass clean through the base, and halfway into the shell. This makes it flush inside the assembly and actually serves as a pin between all 4 parts. I have also decreased the outer sides of the Inner parts by .02" all around (.5mm), as it would require a pneumatic press to actually get the two inner halves into the shell. Just the cm or so I shoved them together to test the fitment took a hammer to remove. So far I have 2 of the latest bases done, a possible "production" print of the shell done (I have three options to print it: First, I can do it with the top horizontal, and support material as a wedge. This is what I did for the shell I have printed. It worked, but did have some errors along the base and had to be sanded flat. Testing with the inner parts after theyre done will determine if this is a problem. Its also the longest print - at 80% speed it takes a whopping 14 hours: Second is to print it with no supports at the bottom, leaving the top as a slant. This has the plus of ensuring a flat base, but gives a layered top: Third is to print on its side. This is the fastest method at only 8 hours and change at 100% (approx 12 hours at 80%), but does use the most material and cost the most. To be fair its about 3 Euros per shell vs the 2.70 Euros or so if printed in either vertical orientation, so not exactly an important difference. Cleaning all that support material out is gonna be a PITA though, and itll leave the face-down side a different texture due to my textured print bed. ), and I am working on printing the two inner halves now. Heres what it looks like mostly assembled, still missing the two inner halves:
  4. A few more pics of my 417 Drum adapter. It is designed for the A&K SR-25 drums as they are plentiful this side of the pond, dont break the bank, are sized for 308 (the main reason I chose a SR-25 drum over something smaller like the Angel Custom drums, which are sized for 5.56), and have some nice features including a sound-based auto-wind, button-wind, and switch-wind. As it seems all my drum adapter designs end up being, it is split into 4 parts for printing - left and right inner halves, an outer shell, and the base. Inner Right showing the internal passageways for loading BBs, the feed tube, and the sound sensor slot and wiring tube: Right and left inner halves put together: The outer shell: The base - printed inverse to this, of course: The four parts assembled (Isometric): The four parts assembled (top): The four parts assembled (back): The cut-away internal shot of all four parts assembled:
  5. Oh what ever could I be working on now? In other news, my three latest projects - that being my AUG HBAR, L86, and QJB-95 are done. Look for them in the Gun Pictures Thread.
  6. Yea Im hoping my high strength stuff and a rough surface will hold. Ill probably just use standard nuts as bolts as space is limited enough as-is. Trying to sink those in will be difficult.
  7. Im... Unsure. I have several parts made in SLS so far, and its certainly the superior material, but it does get pricey. Once this hurricane moves on I will fill the drum with ammo and go stress test it. If the epoxy fails Ill need to redesign it to use bolts, and if the PETG fails then I will need to get it done in SLS. But for now itll stay as PETG.
  8. Looks like my custom parts for my QBJ-95 build are done. 4 part AC drum adapter, barrel cover, and battery extension all done. I am looking into getting a real RPK bipod to complete the look, and if that occurs I may redesign the cover, but for now its done. Assembly is tomorrow.
  9. Sounds like you need one of the newer AUBLs. Depending on whether you run a torch or use a very oddly-shaped gun the GLS is going to be your best bet too. Lozart, I unfortunately forgot my non-duty belt platform at the house before leaving on my current work trip so I cant provide pics currently, but I found an better (IMO) way to mount the strap. I took a soldering iron and a leg strap and soldered a hole through it (could also drill and melt the edges like fusing a rope), and drilled a hole through the lowest portion of one of my AUBLs, then bolted it together using a short Safariland bolt and a weld nut. It sits like a UBL, doesnt bunch up in the crotch, and holds to the leg like a leg drop. Maybe give it a try if the knock-off UBL is capable.
  10. More pics of the custom 3D printed STAR HPA gearbox being assembled and installed. Damn these L86s have a bunch of parts...
  11. Well, a lot of work later and shes finished. HPA'd STAR L86. R-hopped 550mm IB, Polarstar F2 engine inside a custom designed and 3D printed gearbox, custom wiring and microswitches, modifications done to fit the IGL, and more. Max range about 85m (not accurate range for you haters). Im happy. Still need to sort out the two side pins behind the magwell, look into adding a grip of some sort if needed, and toss a light on it.
  12. Sure does. Im just imaging actually setting the hop
  13. Looks like Cyberguns got a C02 FN SLP on the way. Looks like a M1014 and works the same way, but is made by FN. Single/3 shot, uses Marui shells, 3 shell capacity. FPS is a bit of a kicker - claims are 290 on trishot and a whopping 460 on single. Shotty sniper anyone? ETA to the US is Feb 2022. Its apparently been around since late last year, but I can find very little on it.
  14. Sling point should be fine. Its well made. I have the FDE/bronze/RAL version myself. In terms of the sight placement, you are correct to place it further back. Ideally youll have it as far back as possible. Im a military/LEO firearms instructor stateside for background. Having the sight further back allows your eyes to focus though it, as opposed to on it. Similar to how your mind ignores your nose, despite the average schnozz being within view. Moving it forward makes it harder for your mind to ignore the physical sight and focus on your target - superimposing the dot (or circle plex in this case) over it. Furthermore, the G33 and G43 magnifiers tend to have relatively poor focal points, meaning they usually work poorly if not very close to the eye. Its better on the real ones, but not by much. Thats why most people skip magnifiers and instead of or systems like short dots or ELCANs which can be adjusted from 1x to whatever is desired (or 4x for the ELCAN). Ive mostly moved to ELCANs myself on both my airsoft replicas and my RS if Im not just using a dedicated 1x like an Eotech, Aimpoint, or Sig sight. Youll generally see sights put that far forward cause it looks cool in the movies, or I know some comp guys prefer it claiming they can acquire the sights faster - which is pointless if you have the built in muscle memory you should have from practicing with your gun.
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