Rogerborg

Bit of a long shot, but does anyone happen to know which aftermarket hop rubber is the best match in profile for the one in a standard Jing Gong MP5K hop unit like this one? I ask because I've tried Maple Leaf, SRS and Lonex and none of them allow the barrel to push fully into the hop unit to the point where the clip can engage securely on it. No PTFE tape or anything funny going on, it just will not push fully in. This is with both the stock barrel and an aftermarket one, and with the stock hop unit in my Galaxy, and a Jing Gong that seems like an exact match (or rather, the Galaxy is cloned from it), so I have to assume that it's the hop rubber that's the odd factor out. I've tried some bodging like slightly milling out the inside of one of the hop unit to allow the barrel and rubber to come further back, but then the lips get pinched and BBs will not enter - like, I literally can't even force them in, unless I move the barrel and rubber forward a fraction of a mm, then they feed fine, but I've got a poor air seal. This just reinforces the lesson to leave stuff alone, but I am where I am with this unit. Any suggestions as to what brand of rubber to try next?

Fair point, you don't want to be taking any risks with Type 97 parts.

Aside, if you have some basic airsoft tools (drill, soldering iron) and the nous to use them then I'd suggest that the most robust and value-for-money airsoft tracer for an AEG is a a DIY hop-up tracer unit (HUTU), with UV LEDs in the feed tube. Plenty of how-to guides out there and 3mm UV 3000mcd LEDs are now dirt cheap, easily available, and run directly off of a (nominal) 3.7V li-on battery (18650, 14500 (AA) or even a 10440 (AAA)), so no need to even add a voltage drop resistor. If you cheap out you're looking at under £10 in parts, and even if you buy a spare hop up chamber, and a whole bunch of LEDs, battery holders, JST/mini-Deans connectors and switches, you're running under £30 with enough spare to do multiple units.

Eh. We had a tragi-comical day yesterday where all the rentals ended up on red[*] and they didn't rebalance properly. Ryan and I got switched to red along with some marshals, but we still got absolutely pumped in every game all day long. Last game was VIP, I think, I'd really given up caring and was on the verge of ragequitting. Instead, I spawned off the bottom of Foxtrot, sauntered 20 yards over to the canteen, and got into a firefight to try (and fail) to clear out 4 blues from the dark area behind the counter. Two of them managed to hold out right to the end of the game, taking out dozens of us along the way. It was epic and hilarious with good natured banter and congratulatory handshakes all round at end-ex. Utterly pointless, but the best game of the day for everyone involved. Sometimes it is just about bouncing your balls off of strangers in the dark. [*] They'd run out of yellow tape

As the most recent Lighter-S trouble topic, I thought I'd BUMP this thread to report that both I and ex-workmate Eddie have been having problems with our Lighter-S tracer units. Mine is still stroppy. It will sit ostensibly charging for many hours, but then if you disconnect and reconnect the charger, will show as full. It requires several on-off cycles before it stops flashing red error / bogus low battery, even when freshly charged. Once it's on, it will stay on, but the intensity has dropped off significantly since I first got it (with both ASG blasters and AirsoftWorld green tracers), leading me to suspect that some of the LEDs have failed already. Ex-workmate Eddie dropped his Lighter-S and wrecked it, so had a brand new one on Sunday, freshly charged, and functional at home. On site, it failed immediately, ostensibly turning itself on (green light flashes) but then it wouldn't turn off, and didn't function at all. I really couldn't recommend them. Nice idea, but the quality is shoddy even by airsoft toy standards.

EN166-F is the lower standard for impact. It's rated for a 0.86g steel BB at 45m/s. So, yes, under 1J, but my understanding is that only full framed goggles can claim the higher EN166-B. That's 120m/s, or 6.2J, so there's a huge jump, and just because something doesn't meet B doesn't mean that it only barely scraped past F. Personally I'd be OK buying anything that's at least 2mm polycarbonate, but always test your own eyepro with the heaviest/hottest BB you can sling at it.

Alexa, show me the Pulp Fiction basement scene.

Prolapsed wallet.

41% of transgender people attempt suicide. It's... not that chucklesome a situation.

Isn't shooting someone with a small plastic BB mildly-to-moderately annoying? Eh, variety is fun, but I do agree that the usefulness is likely fairly limited.

SkyRC B6 branded seem to be fine. Mine's a good solid chunky unit, no problems so far. I honestly don't think "storage mode" is a real thing for lips. Just don't leave them discharged. HobbyKing for lipos, they've currently got them hidden under lipo -> Lifestyle-> Outdoor Recreation -> Airsoft I'd generally recommend buying 2 x 1200 - 1400 mAh 25-50C 7.4V rather than one bigger one (they're so cheap on HobbyKing that you might as well buy two or more anyway). Swap at lunchtime if you've put a thousand+ rounds through. What I would avoid is a whopping great 2000+ mAh 50C 11.1V lipo. The mosfet will stop your trigger contacts burning out, but you might experience overspin and double shooting. I found that one out the hard way.

Sadly, I agree. If you can find someone who's desperately seeking one, you could ask more. As it is, you're probably trying to tempt people who look at it and think "Ewwww".

<interesting-if-true.png> Is this word-of-mouth, or is it documented anywhere? I ask only because of the potential for tears, and that sellers specifically recommend not using it with plastic slides.

With fixed bayonets?