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Introduction: I’m making this guide for several reasons, not least because I’m sad and have nothing better to do, or maybe I’m procrastinating from doing real work, but I’d also like to get down on paper some thoughts on the science of our pew pew guns and clear up some misconceptions or at least get a discussion going to better our understanding. This guide is going to be a combination of actual science (well, as close as I can get to actual science ) and some personal experience, I’m by no means the most experienced airsofter out there but I’ve tried over the years to get an understanding of what’s going on and for those new to the hobby this might save some time barking up the wrong tree as I’ve done. Part 1: the goal Well this is simple, our goal is to shoot some random stranger on a farm on a Sunday and “kill” him, or at least hit him with a plastic pellet and for him to shout “hit” and plod off back to a chequered flag. This sounds pretty easy, but we need to start somewhere, so what do we need to make this happen? Well we need to hit him for a start, always helps, but not only that but we need to hit him hard. That’s not to say we need to hurt him, but whilst we can argue all day about wether or not people should wear plate carriers the short of it is you need your bb’s to hit with enough energy that he either feels it or hears the impact (which on a field of explosions and other people pew pewing can be difficult). So when our bb hits the target it needs energy. This is why I dislike to some extent the “you can get lots of range from a 328fps gun” argument, yes you can, but how far the bb travels isn’t the only part of getting a kill and just hitting isn't always enough sadly. Part 2: some misconceptions One thing that I see a lot in various threads is “upgrade your fps it’ll give you more range” or “change to x y or z hop it’ll give you more range” or “use x type of bb it’ll give you more range”, which is both right and wrong depending on how you judge range which will become more clear later. The thing to remember is once your bb leaves your barrel it doesn’t care what happened before, it could have come from a speedsofter’s £3000 hpa or some kids £90 rental ak, it only has 3 things on it’s side to fight the wind/tree branches/gravity to get to the target and these are: Backspin- this gives us our wonderful magnus force that will fight gravity and keep our bb in the air without needing to go at proper bullet speeds Mass- how much the bb weighs Energy- kinetic energy, we often like to use fps as our measurement as it’s how we can best record our performance but what really matters is energy So we should probably cover these 3 as they apply to our bb in flight. part 3- backspin backspin gives us our magnus force, the science behind it is quite interesting and worth a read if you’re interested in expanding your knowledge but in reality the only thing that we need to know is if our hop unit is set right. Now this is different for every setup, how fast the bb is actually spinning doesn’t really matter to us, it could be 1rpm or 10,000 rpm, we don’t care we just want our bb to fly straight. Now personally I set my hop units for a little bit of rise, about 20cm, so that when the bb comes out it’ll rise up by 20cm then start falling back down. The logic here is that if I’m aiming for someone’s chest it’s not going to jump up over their head, miss then drop back down behind them. We’ve all been there where our hop has made us miss someone. In terms of the physics the amount of lift we get depends on 2 things: The speed of rotation, which is pretty much constant after the bb has left the barrel (well, it slows down a bit but not much) The velocity of the bb When we “set” our hop unit what we’re doing is setting the speed of rotation to get the right lift, but if we change ammo or change springs the bb will either be going slower (needing more spin to get the same lift) or faster (needing less spin). Now the important thing to remember is that if we’re spinning x rpm, then there’s y velocity that gives us the exact amount of lift to fight gravity, but of course a bb doesn’t stay at y velocity, it slows down which is where mass comes in. Part 4- mass So we have our spin, but as I mentioned bb’s slow down, and this is the misconception I had many years ago that faster bb=more range The important thing is air resistance, which the faster you go the more of it you have so your bb slows down quicker (moving it out of that sweet spot for the hop spin to work) So say we have a 1j gun, we fire at 328fps on a .2g bb and 270fps for a .3gbb well that .2g bb is going faster, so it has more drag, and it’s lighter so the drag has more effect. The end result is the bb slows down very quickly and it doesn’t take long for it to slow down so much our backspin stops lifting it. Whereas the .3g bb is slower and harder to slow down, sure it might have started out slower but over time it keeps it’s velocity and hence stays in that nice range where the backspin can lift it. So in theory at least a heavier bb spun sufficiently will for the same energy always go further, take a look at the spreadsheet at the bottom and see what I mean. But wait, it gets better! Remember I said we need 2 things to hit a target? Well a heavier bb gives us both! In the real world we’re shooting through wind and worse leaves, these are forces just like regular ol’ drag and a heavy bb will be blown about less by the wind and has a better chance of punching straight through those pesky leaves and hitting the target, so we get more accuracy, yay! But not only are they more accurate they also carry their energy better, so when we do hit the target at range it’s going to hit it harder, and thus make enough force and noise to let the target know they’ve been hit. So where’s the downside? Why wouldn’t you run sniper .48’s in every gun you own and on every site? Well several reasons: 1. Cost, damn that pesky real world economics, but obviously heavier bb’s cost more. If you find somewhere selling .48’s for the same price as .2’s then let me know because that’s awesome. Those of us that own support guns with high rates of fire will most likely wince at having to fill it up with costly ammo only to be sprayed into the ether, likewise snipers who don’t shoot much can afford the good stuff hence why they like to run heavy. 2. Travel time, again this is the real world being all awkward and getting in the way of our lovely discussion but remember that our target may not be nice enough to stand still and wait to get hit, especially if he sees our bb’s coming towards him. Heavy bb’s might carry their energy better but they’re slower and take longer to go the same distance, not much longer, but it's enough. edit: it must be noted that a large proportion of perceived travel time is down to the additional range, whilst a .2 will be faster over a short distance remember that a .3 or .4 will still be chugging along long after the .2 as slowed down and dropped. 3. Getting the lift, unfortunately the same properties that make a bb great in flight make them bad for spinning up in the hop unit, and this means that you may find you can’t run them without upgrading your gun and if (like me at the time) you don’t understand fully why it’s happening. This is the “more hop” argument for things like maple leaf/flathop/rhop guns, it isn’t about getting lots of hop on .2’s, it’s about being able to get enough hop on .3’s or heavier. 4. When you don’t need range, now I play mostly outdoors on sites limited to 1j, so for me getting every drop of performance I can is paramount, but say you’re playing in cqb where the maximum distance is maybe 10m, well there’s not much point spending money getting a setup that can shoot well beyond that if you’re not going to be using it, you’d be much better spending money on grenades. So what weight should you run? Well as heavy as you can afford and your gun can lift. Personally I use .3’s for all my “assault” type guns, .2’s in my mg42 (even though it shoots lovely on .3’s) and .43’s in my vsr, although should I ever sell my soul and play indoors I’ll just run .2’s. Part 5- energy So our final ingredient is energy, most folks will know this as fps because when we’re getting our guns checked at the local site that’s what we get told “oh sorry you’re 400fps and the limit is 350 so you can’t play”. Well what’s really important is energy, kinetic energy, which is a factor of our bb mass and it’s velocity, it’s why the limits are different for different weights of bb’s and why it’s a common tactic of the cheater to rock up at the chrono and say “yeah I’m running .2’s” and to chrono at 328fps while anyone with a lick of sense can hear the smack of the bb’s against the backstop and think “like hell is he running .2’s” This is where I take exception to the argument of “marui’s shoot fine at 328fps, you don’t need fps to get range”, well you do, or at least you should try to get your gun shooting as close to your site limit as you can. The short argument is energy is energy and more is always better, the long version is that energy gives us the velocity that means we need less backspin and can run heavier bb’s without them being really slow and letting our targets stroll out of the path of our righteous pewing. Remember once the bb leaves the barrel it only has 3 things, and mass is the only one it’ll not lose as it flies downrange. As your bb slows down in the wind it loses energy so the more of it you have at the start the better, it’s why all the cheaters want to run hot. A friend of mine recently lent me his m16 to do a bit of work on, he was keeping up in terms of range with most of the folk he was shooting at in part due to a good hop, but he’d rage daily at people not taking hits until we chrono’d it to find it shooting at half the site energy, turned out his floating bb’s were hitting with so little force if he was at any distance people just weren’t feeling it. Now to digress from external ballistics for a second (well, more like 10 minutes) to talk about joule creep. Think about it like this, our bb in the barrel gets pushed by gas, and how long it gets pushed for depends on the length of the barrel and how quickly it’s getting pushed. Joule creep is what happens when you have an “over gassed” gun firing .2’s, whilst you can do this with an aeg or a spring sniper it’s much more common in gas/hpa guns. Think about it like this, your gun can only push so hard, and a light bb will get up to speed very quickly, once it leaves the barrel then it’s not going to be pushed any more. So imagine we had a longer barrel, well if we push just as hard over a longer distance then the bb will spend more time accelerating and hence be going faster. Well the other way to make a bb spend more time in the barrel is to make it accelerate slower, now we can do this by making the bb heavier, so for the same force it’ll accelerate less (remember newton’s f=ma? Who says math class in school was useless). Now it’s not going to come out any faster than the light bb, but it doesn’t need to, it’s heavier so doesn’t need to go as fast to have the same energy. A good way to test this is to take a WE or marui gbb pistol, fill it up with .2’s and chrono it, for the sake of argument lets say it fires at 328fps which is 1j Now try it with .3’s and it fires 300fps, which is 1.2j or equivalent to firing a .2 going at 370fps This is why it’s important to chrono a gun on the weight you plan on using in a game, because a player can perfectly honestly, indeed without even realising himself, chrono his gun on .2’s and pass, but then fill his mags with .3’s and spend the rest of the day shooting a hot gun. Now you can argue all day that “yeah but he passed the chrono”, well it’s the exact same thing as running hot, the effect is the same (ie it hurts more and he has a more range), if everyone on the site does it or is happy with people doing it then the site's limits should be changed to reflect this. so digression aside what energy should you run? Well my opinion is you should take your site limit in joules and get your gun to shoot that on the ammo you use, any less will be a disadvantage and any more will be cheating. Part 6- nerd time! Well, that was a long rant without nerdy equations and whatnot so time to put our science hats on. So our bb in flight has 3 forces acting on it: Lift- from our magnus force, this is a product of our backspin and our velocity. The full equation I’ve used is for a cylinder but it’s close enough for showing the effect: Fl=ρ*v*2*π*r²*l*ω Looks an awful lot like it’s not just backspin and velocity there so lets break it down: Fl is our lifting force v is our velocity ω is our angular velocity (aka how much spin we have) r is our radius l is our length (for the cylinder example I stole this equation from) ρ is the density of air so if you think about it, if we make some broad assumptions we can say that the spin doesn’t slow down (at least not enough to make a difference) and the density of air doesn’t change enough to make a difference either. Now we’re dealing with the same size of bb so really the only things that can change are F as a product of v and ω. Drag- this is just from velocity and bb diameter (so sorry marushin guys but not sorry, we’re dealing with 6mm spheres here), although once again we have a more complicated equation: F=0.5*ρ*v²*Cd*A Ok so that’s not as bad Fl once again is our force, only this time it’s for drag Ρ has snuck in again, it’s the same atmospheric density v is a bit of a cheat, technically it’s the velocity of the air against the bb but I’m not NASA so the velocity of the bb is close enough Cd is our drag coefficient, again a big simplification but for our purposes we’re saying 0.47 for a sphere that’s got turbulent air around it (little known pseudo fact marui “magic dust” actually bonds the airflow to the bb causing laminar flow dropping the Cd to 0.1! (*not entirely serious)) A is our frontal area of the bb, good ol’ πr² So making the same assumptions before, with the addition of assuming turbulent flow, we end up with Fd being variable as a result of v. Gravity- this is from our bb weight and here comes the scary equation: Fg=m*g Wait, what? That was meant to be complicated! Well once again it is, technically g can depend on where on earth you are but in reality nobody cares because it’s close enough. Remember back to school math g is 9.81m/s² So with that explained on to the bit where I skip the really dull bit and just tell you to go look at the spreadsheet, basically it takes these 3 equations and with the starting parameters you give it it’ll spit out a graph of how different weight bb’s will fly. So as a quick note on it’s use: Muzzle energy- I’ve rated this as fps on a .2gbb just because that’s a unit we’re all familiar with, if you want to use joules it’s to the right of the reset hop button MED distance- this is the distance of your MED, for snipers interested in just how much hurt your 500fps gun running .5g bb’s inflicts on someone at 20m Energy at MED- this gives you an MED if you want to know how far a bb goes before it slows down to a given energy, useful for showing how far a bb can go whilst still hitting as hard as an equivalent gun point blank. Reset hop- this was a right pain making the spreadsheet so unfortunately the best I can do is fix the hop setting for a 20cm rise before it drops again, this will change if the fps is different so remember to press that button otherwise you’ll get some suspiciously good range numbers and some strange graphs. Maximum range- this I’ve set to the distance I’d call the “effective” range, ie when a bb has risen 20cm from where it left the barrel, then drop to 20cm below where it left the barrel, so if you fire at a man sized target you’ll hit him without needing to fire your gun wildly into the air and assuming he’s kind enough to stand there and get shot. So a couple of interesting points to note: Say we have a site, regular rifles have no MED and can be 1.3j or 375fps, snipers have 2.3j or 500fps but they have a 20m MED: Our rifleman running .2’s can shoot 38m, but if he can get enough spin to lob a .5g bb he’ll shoot 52m Our sniper running .2’s can shoot 43m, and at 20m the hit is a measly 0.4j or the same as being shot point blank by a 205fps gun, thing is if he packs .5’s in his gun he’ll shoot 60m and more importantly at 20m he hits with 1.27 joules, or the same as being hit by the rifleman at point blank So with that I’ll leave you to have a little play. Part 7- but I’m not a nerd! What do I need to do to get my gun to shoot far? So we’ve covered pretty well the science of how to get a bb to go far, it needs to be heavy, with lots of energy, and enough spin and if it has those 3 things it’ll go as far regardless of what gun it comes from. So why spend money on a fancy polarstar kit with an rhop like my favourite youtuber uses? Well back at the start we mentioned you need 2 things to get hits, and the first is you need to hit in the first place. This is where all our upgrades come in, a fancy barrel and hop unit wont make your bb’s go any further, but what it will mean is they’ll all start the same, we’ve all seen that guy with his 50rps dsg build m4 spray a mag load of bb’s only to get salty and rage because “he’s not calling his hits” when in reality by the time it gets to the target it’s a 10 foot spread and he's not hitting a thing. So the first place I’d recommend looking is your hop unit, there’s a million different designs that promise the earth so I’m just going to cover the standard, flat and radial hop and hopefully explain what’s going on so you can understand what some of the fancier designs out there like maple leaf are doing. So the standard hop is what most guns come with these days, it’s basically a lump of rubber in your barrel: Now lets add the bb, the trick here is to realise that a barrel is not exactly 6mm and neither is the bb, nothing is perfect and there’s a tolerance. So when you’re buying expensive barrels and bb’s what you’re really paying for is for them to be exactly the size they say they are and in the case of bb’s to be all exactly the same size. Now a bb is slightly smaller than the barrel, so we can be sure it won’t get stuck, this is why it’s important to keep your barrel and ammo clean because enough dirt and it’ll be rubbing it’s way down messing up that lovely backspin we want. Now we want our backspin to be the same every time, not just in terms of how much backspin there is but also in terms of the backspin being the same every time: The perfect scenario is vertical spin like this: But of course the bb isn’t going to be nice and pop perfectly in the centre every time: So our spin is at an angle, and as a result our magnus force will also be at an angle, lifting the bb not just up but sideways, this means it’ll try and curve off to the left or right, and because not all the force it acting upwards it’ll also lift up more or less, this is our friend with his ultra fast gun shooting a 10 foot spread and not hitting anything. So our alternative is to flat hop, and try to minimise this angle: Which when we try our wonky bb does this: So we get less angle, our bb’s drift less and our spread is less, meaning our bb’s are much more likely to hit what we’re aiming at, not only that but a flat hop will have a longer contact patch, or in other words it spends longer spinning the bb, meaning we can spin heavier bb’s and get all the wonderful benefits heavier ammo allows us. Flat hopping a gun really isn’t as hard as you’d think it would be and can get some excellent results for very little money, and whilst it wont give you more total range on it’s own, it will give you accuracy and the ability to use heavier ammo increasing the range you can hit things. edit: as a minor digression i figure i might as well cover how to make a flathop seeing as it's one of the best bang for buck airsoft upgrades out there as you can really tighten up the groupings of a gun potentially for free: 1. remove the hop from your gun, this can be very simple or very difficult depending on the particular model, for example my f2000 is just 1 pin to remove the upper and the hop/barrel is right there to pull out, but a jg ak takes much more disassembly, as with all things youtube the gun you have for a guide, take your time and remember- as long as you don't lose parts you can always take it to a tech to get it sorted, so don't worry. 2. pull the stock hop unit apart, you want the rubber and the nub (the little cylindrical rubber thing that'll drop out when you remove the barrel), the nub you can toss away as you'll want to replace it with a flat nub, various manufacturers (Prometheus being somewhat prominent) make these but if you're handy with a knife and super cheap you can make a heath robinson flat nub out of a pencil eraser. again youtube is your friend for how to disassemble and re-assemble a hop unit. 3. turn the stock hop rubber inside out, this can be tricky and i find using an alan key (or similar pokey type object) can help tremendously, don't use anything sharp though as you don't want to poke holes in your rubber (air leaks are bad m'kay) 4. cut the bump off the inside, as well as the ridge on the bottom used to line it up, or if you prefer there are pre-made flathop rubbers out there which will save you the bother. the important thing we're aiming for here is no holes, and no bumps on the inside of the rubber 5. put the hop rubber back on the barrel, but remember where the ridge was? well turn that 90 degrees from the ridge on the barrel, this way we've got the side of the original hop rubber on the barrel which will be nice and smooth (assuming like me you couldn't be bothered to fully sand down the insides and instead just spent 20s with a pair of snips during step 4) 6. this step is optional but recommended is to take some ptfe tape and wrap it around where the hop and barrel overlap, the idea here is to seal air particularly where the ridge cut in the barrel is that is no longer sealed as we've removed the ridge, you don't need too much or else you'll have a hard time re-inserting your barrel into the hop chamber 7. re-assemble the hop unit, this should mostly be the reverse of the dissassembly, with the exception that we're replacing the original round nub with our new flat nub, you may need to trim the nub a bit shorter to fit the hole in the hop unit (which will again depend on brand). now the trick here is when you've got it assembled to take a look down the barrel, turn the hop on all the way and check it's working, and also check the angle it's coming out at, if it's down too far on one side or the other this will pull your shots off to that side so we want it nice and square, the way i do this is literally to "twiddle" the barrel until everything's nice and square. 8. finally, drop your hop back in your gun and go pew. But what if we want more? More is good right? Well my friend in steps the Rhop: Man it took ages to align that and it still looks wonky. Now this might sound controversial but in my opinion the rhop isn’t really much different to a flathop, but the devil’s in the details. Firstly it’s going to actively pull the bb’s into the centre, if you look at some of the fancy hop designs (like maple leaf) you’ll see they’re trying to go for the same idea. The DIY rhop just takes a regular flat hop and pops a cut up square of rubber in the window of the barrel, commonly you'll see folk mentioning silicon hose or you can buy dedicated rhop patches. when it’s turned on it can end up looking very flat inside the barrel, but remember when it deforms it’ll wrap round the bb: So we get as close as we can get to perfect vertical spin every time, and we have the same longer contact patch the flat hop gave us so we can still lift heavy ammo. Now remember that a bb’s lift is not just a product of spin, but also its velocity and herein lies the advantage of the rhop. Hop up rubbers come in different hardness’s, and like formula 1 fans will tell you a soft rubber is going to be grippy and a hard rubber not so grippy, now these aren’t cars but there’s one solid advantage to a hard rubber and that’s stopping leaks- remember your airsoft gun is chucking a lot of air behind that bb and air likes to escape. Now one way is to go down the barrel and shove the bb out of the way, but if it can shove its way out past the hop rubber or the nozzle or better yet just not go anywhere and stay in this nice cylinder thank you very much then it will. This is why common advice is to check for air leaks. Now since we’re talking about hops we’ll simply say that if you want a soft grippy rubber to spin your heavy bb’s then it’s going to be easier for the air to squish the rubber out of the way and sneak out, so we want a hard rubber, this is why hard rubber’s tend to be recommended for snipers as it’ll help prevent air leaks, and if you’ve played with the spreadsheet you’ll see that faster bb’s need less spin to lift, so the grip is less relevant if your gun is shooting fast. Well an rhop gives you the best of both worlds, because the patch and the main body of the rubber are separate you can have a nice hard air sealing rubber on the outside and a nice soft grippy rubber on the inside, yay! Downside is these can be a bit of a pain to get right, however it’s worth experimenting because the boost in accuracy and by extension effective range is a worthy payoff. now i haven't covered bb's barrels gearboxes and springs because frankly it's pretty straightforward: good bb's are consistent in size, weight, surface polish and roundness, check out Gasman's topic if you want to look at what makes up a good bb. good barrels are straight, there's no variation along their length, tight versus widebore is it's own topic but in my opinion that's secondary to quality (ie if you care enough to consider proper tight/widebores you should really focus on quality too) the argument for a tightbore is that it will allow less "wobble" of the bb as it can't rattle around as much, of course the counter argument is that the tighter tolerances mean the bb could hit the barrel and as a result gain spin in a different direction pulling the shot off. the inverse is true for widebores, whilst they could let the bb bounce around more the theory is the bb will be kept centred by a cushion of air and thus not bounce on the sides and get off-axis spin. barrel length isn't all that important for accuracy, anyone who's met the wrath of my 4" pdi barreled hicapa can attest to that, although for certain setups a long barrel can be rather useful (like trying to go for a quieter build, especially with hpa) i'll let you decide for yourself which side of the barrel argument you sit on, but remember quality is absolutely king. personally i get good results from pdi tightbores, but i've not really tried proper quality widebores to compare. good gearboxes don't leak air, so they have good o rings, good tolerances and good compression, apart from that most gearbox discussions are more about supporting higher rates of fire, reliable feeding etc. and springs give you more fps, pretty self explanatory, pick the right one for your setup and site limits. edit: hop units (ie the likes of madbull or pro-win) have more sensitive adjustments, features like the addition of tracer or holding bb capability, and are generally better quality, however they are not essential when compared to the rubbers and nubs they contain most of what makes an hpa system so good is it gives the same pressure and volume of air for every single shot and consistency of fps=consistency of spin=accuracy=effective range, it's also much easier to achieve reliable high rates of fire and the ability to tune your fps can be handy if you regularly travel to sites with different limits, of course the price you pay for this is having to carry around the small bomb air tank on your back all the time. Part 8- conclusions Well the primary conclusion from this is that I should really be getting back to doing proper work, and that it’s almost certain I’ve just annoyed several strangers on the internet with my wonky diagrams and half-baked ponderings who will proceed to tell me I’m wrong about something. Now I’m not trying to lie to you, and if I am wrong I’d like to know because at least half of what I know has been learned through internet arguments. hell I used to think running .2’s was the best way to go for low fps until a bunch of strangers on the internet told me I was wrong. When I properly tried it to prove to myself I was right I realised I was wrong, and now look at me preaching the benefits of heavy ammo, with science! The best way to learn this stuff is to try it, it might be scary to crack open your first hop unit and cut it up with a pair of snips to make a flat hop but if you’re too scared to do it the first time you’ll never be able to try it a second or third time and eventually get it right. But if you think I’ve made a mistake, or I’m spreading misinformation then please explain yourself so I can understand what the problem is and either admit i'm wrong and learn something, or prove you wrong and you'll learn something, either way someone gets to learn something and: now if anyone asks, i've been researching de-lamination of fibre matrix composites all morning ;) BB range study.xlsm edit 1: cleared up an issue with travel time using heavier bb's (ie it's only slower over short distances and the difference isn't that much), added a rough guide to flathopping (more as a motivation as to it being easy and effective than an actual tutorial), fixed a few spelling mistakes and changed some wording to make it a bit clearer in parts.

That's my pet hate too, I hate it when I've got someone screaming in my face "COME ON PUSH UP, GET MOVING, MAKE SOME EFFORT YOU USELESS TUB OF LARD" I hate Saturday nights with the missus😭

As some of you asked for fotos of my collection, I took a few pics 🙂 We restored a house a few years ago and I got the rare opportunity to turn a room into my personal little "museum". The only downside: The showcases are full already... 😅 As mentioned in the new members thread, I'm a collector for quite some time now and I'm interested in anything that's odd / old / rare / shellejecting / japanese / gasdriven in general and recently got a knack for a bit more steel here and there. Unfortunately, the showcases in the middle still lack lighting 😑 Disclaimer: Everything in that room is legal and according to german laws, the guns themselves aswell as the showcases, which are locked, when I'm not there. The guns outside the showcases are 0.5 joules, so they don't fall under german gun laws, but are categorized as toys.

I'd like to start off this thread by saying that the pistols, rifles and shotguns that I recommend are, and always will be, from my own experience of using them and by popular opinion from regular users on here, other forums and other reputable sources. This thread will also be updated over time. The amount of threads I keep seeing about this subject literally popping up every other week is getting a tad bit annoying, so, I figured I'd create this thread to save people from repeating themselves. So, you're a new player looking for a decent gun hmm? You have a set budget for a gun that will be suitable for skirmishing and won't break anytime soon. If you have a budget of £20 - £60, these guns will do just fine. Primarily gas and spring. - Any Double Eagle/AGM single-shot shotgun: These things have good range with .25g BB's and don't shoot above site limits, for around £30 you can't go wrong. Bison shotguns are a good option if you prefer a different look. - Any Double Eagle tri-shot shotgun: Like the single-shot shotguns, these also have good range but cost slightly more (around £50.) Do not purchase the Marui tri-shots new because, personally, the quality is on par with the Double Eagle tri-shots, not worth above £100. Cyma make metal tri-shot shotguns with folding stocks, full stocks, stockless and all metal or polymer for under or a bit over £100 depending on the model. G&P shotguns are outdated and overpriced, avoid. - ASG, KJWorks, HFC MK23: Absolutely the best gas pistol for under £70, very efficient, accurate and cheap to buy. The included 'silencer' will increase the FPS, try to find the Marui silencer to make it deadly silent. - Cyma AEP's: Like the MK23, these AEPs are excellent for the money, reliable gearboxes, some upgrade options out there on sites such as Eagle6 and Firesupport, magazines are very cheap, LiPo kits are also available and are a worthy upgrade. - HFC gas pistols: These are OK for around £30, average accuracy and gas efficiency, plastics used aren't great BUT the pistols are rugged enough for skirmishing, but they won't stand up to long-term use, consider saving up for the MK23. If you have a budget of £60 - £100, this is an ok budget for a gun. - KJWorks P226, Glocks, M9s and 1911s: These guns are absolutely solid, will last a long time if taken care of. Good kick, average gas efficiency due to metal construction, fully Marui compatible. These are capable of using Co2, but is strongly advised due to inconsistent FPS. Magazines are poor quality and WILL leak during your ownership, replacing them with Marui magazines is advised. The paint that is used is very easily chipped. - WE Glocks, P226, M9s, XDMs and PX4's: Like KJWorks pistols, these pistols are very solid performers and are reliable, average gas efficiency and good range. Avoid purchasing second hand, these pistols are usually very well used in their lifetime, check the condition of the pistol before considering purchasing. The Glocks are slightly fatter than the real thing, so as such, they do not fit most plasic holsters, either trim the holster or purchase an adjustable cloth holster. The paint on the pistols is slightly better than the KJWorks, but will still easily be scratched off. - ASG Dan Wesson revolvers: These guns are reliable, but have no hop up, so they lack range. Only capable of holding 6 rounds, these are not suitable for skirmishing due to the lack of range and the inconsistent FPS. Good, realistic backyard plinkers for collectors. - JG Skorpion, Mac 10: These are very reliable and rugged AEP's, clones of the Marui so plenty of upgrade options and magazines online from sites such as Eagle6. You will be outgunned by regular AEG's such as Combat Machines however due to the small gearbox and weak motor. Will make a decent side arm if using a high-capacity magazine. - Well R4 & R2: Decent AEP's, on par with JG. Clones of the Marui, so upgrade options are available. The plastic Well use for the AEPs are very poor, and will shatter under heavy use. The R4's magazine release will snap if used a lot, so take care. Please consider the JG over the Well if possible. If you have a set budget from £100 - £200, the options are essentially endless. This is the budget you need for a good reliable gun. Spring guns aren't included on this list as you'll end up spending more than you'll realise when you end up upgrading them. AEGS: - Any: G&G Combat Machines/GC16, Cyma AK's/Mp5's/M14's, JG G36/AUG/AK's/G3s, ICS M4's/Mp5's(Sportline)/AK's/G33/Sigs/Mx5's, Classic Army Mp5's/M4's/AK's/P90, SRC G36's, ASG Sten-gun/MP40/MP44/AUGs(JG)/M14(Cyma), APS AK's, King Arms P90 and D-Boys KAC/AK's. Pistols: - Any: Tokyo Marui gbb pistols! Their Hi-capas, Glocks, M9's and 1911's have the most after market parts. KWA/KSC pistols are also very good, the Glocks are extremely robust apart from the full auto versions due to their weak fire selector. Marui pistols will work fine on propane/green gas, though I wouldn't recommend using propane/green gas in them on warm days, stick to HFC gas instead. KWA/KSC gbb's have inferior hop up designs, as the 'nub' that is used to apply pressure is just a tiny ball bearing, whereas in the Marui pistols, they use VSR buckings and regular nubs. "Why aren't sniper rifles/DMR's included?" . Spring guns aren't included on this list as you'll end up spending more than you realise when you start upgrading them to 'outperform everyone on the field'. DMR's are just AEG's; put an oversized scope on an unweildy rifle and you've got a DMR. If you have a set budget above £200 to £300, any AEG will do. Consider Krytac AEG's as they're very well shimmed and have excellent air compression. If you like realism, try gas blowback rifles such as WE/GHK/KJWorks, the WE's will definitely require upgrading for long-term use, also consider HPA use for consistency (or Tippman M4's). If you don't like the idea of buying gas but still want the realism, consider the Marui recoil shock series or CTW's. Hope this helps!

No school like the old school

Chasing that new toy? Need a new plate carrier for an “impression”, want to be adorned in the latest forward observations group drip? It happens to us all, we get lost down the rabbit hole, looking for that perfect load out, that ultimate “thing” that will make us the envy of Instagram / insert site name here…it costs time, it costs money…it can cost a lot more. If you’re struggling, talk to somebody…today I nearly lost a friend who is thousands upon thousands of pounds in debt, all from trying to impress everybody else. Is everybody doing ok? Vent here if you need, just remember it’s a game, don’t sink yourself financially trying to keep up, I’m guilty of it and I imagine there are quite a few others here too.

So I played about with a hk53

So Ill give some more information thats been gathered since Im US-based and have been following the release of information. Apparently he loaded up in full kit including NODs, armor, everything. Wore his old SG patch from his time in the 82nd. Took an Uber to his brother-in-law's store to defend it from looters. Saw the NG unit nearby, and this is where information starts to vary. The NG unit claims he walked up to them and stated that he was a part of their unit. They were instantly suspicious as this guy has about 40 grand in better equipment than NG get, his rifle was out of regs, NG dont get handguns and he had a tricked out one, and it wasnt a G17 or M17. So they start asking him questions about the unit, their CO, etc and he cant answer any of them. So they talk him into handing over his guns and hand him off to a LAPD unit as they arent sure what to do with him. Then it gets interesting. So as some of you might know, California has the most anal gun laws in the US. I wont get into Second Amendment rights and all that, but lets just say Cali does not like guns. And to own a firearm in Cali you have to adhere to a very strict set of requirements. You can not bring external parts into Cali, you can not modify guns, etc. Apparently Spartans AR was modified, had parts that were non-California compliant, and there have been people saying he had a "ghost" lower. This has been said to be several things, from a 3D printed lower, to a polymer lower with the serial number removed. So what are the various crimes committed here? Well, impersonating servicemen is Stolen Valor and a federal offense. Modifying a firearm is a state offense. Open carry is a state offense. And an illegal lower is a federal offense. Current estimates on his sentence really vary. Depending on the court and plea deal he may very well get away with a monetary fine and lose his ability to own a firearm (this is a guarantee of anyone convicted of a federal offense). Or, he could see up to a $60000 fine and up to 10 years total jail time, assuming sentences are concurrent. Courts often take a bit of leniency on Vets, but as its California they may very well try to bury him under the jail. Now on to things we do not know but are rumored. First off, after his arrest police raided his home and found evidence of his attempts to modify and sell illegal firearms. This has not been confirmed, and there are many who say they simply rolled up to his house, saw his gun wall of airsoft, and figured "well we got him big this time". It wouldn't be the first time people have been arrested over airsoft. If that is the case they will eventually be identified as such and wont matter. If he was indeed modifying firearms with intent to sell then we have a whole 'nother problem here. Second is the rumor that some guardsmen said something along the lines of "hey Wong, youre a cool cat, why dont you come down and hang out with use at the barricade". Again, no proof this happened, but Ive heard it mentioned by several sources. In the end it doesn't really change much as common sense should have told him that would be a bad idea, plus above modified weapons and open carry issues. If its true it might lead to those NGs getting a bit of trouble but nothing major. In the end, however, it was a very stupid thing to do. Unfortunately even if everything is dropped and he doesn't serve any time, he will be dropped by every company he works with, and will essentially have to find a new line of work. The reenactment groups he frequented have already started moving away from him, theres no doubt Magpul and the other firearm companies he speaks for will drop him, and the airsoft companies may very well do the same. He will be losing all his firearms and right to own a firearm, so thats all gone too. As my guys over at "A Very Serious Airsoft Podcast" said - "the best case scenario is that he was just very stupid."

Hey guys! after speaking to the bank for what felt like 2 hours.. I have finally got my money back told them everything the address his family the box he sent a picture of, the rug he used to take the pictures.. everything. They put the money in in seconds. On another not as well I said paid threw f&f but in fact it came straight out of my account so I think I got a bit lucky 🍀.. they handled it perfectly. The guy Tom who delt with the call couldn’t of been nicer about things really couldn’t. The police phoned me this morning regarding the issue and I still want to take things further.. he still has the other buyers money Stephen Joyce as he paid threw f&f I’m not letting him scam another bloke who is looking for something again. Named and shamed! I’m going to phone all the sites he goes to to get him banned. Until Stephen gets his money back it’s not over yet. Also I just want to say a massive thank you to the people who helped me deal with this.. salt of the earth kind of people. I really do appreciate all the looking up, the searches everything. I felt so alone and didn’t have a clue what to do.. but use guys made it right. I’m really grateful for that. If anyone is around the Edinburgh area in the next couple of weeks for a game of Airsoft at my local I would love that 👌 cheers again Craig

So an update. The British collection so far. Law 66 L115A1 (Aw338) L100A1 (G3A4) L85A2/L123A2 l85A2 TES L128A1 (M1014 shotgun) L74A1 (870 shotgun) L91A1 (MP5 SD) L7A2 GPMG L108A1 (MK1 Minimi) L1A1 SLR Colt model 715 (C7) L119A1 SFW L119A1 CQB L92A1 (MP5 A3 embassy seige) L131A1 (Glock 17 gen 4) L105A2 (P226R) L9A1 (Browning HI Power) L85A2 (3 Para 2008) Colt model 725 (C8) L105A1 (P226 non railed) L22A2 L86A2

We few at UK-JTF are recruiting new team members over the winter with a view to attend MilSim events in the new year. We are a friendly bunch, who appreciate teamwork to achieve objectives and domination of the field. To apply, DM me your full Discord UserID, and I will invite you to apply/interview Here are the rules for Applying for UK-JTF. If requirements are not met you WILL be removed. Should you fail the interview first time command will speak with each other and possibly grant you a second interview should you want it. Rules are as following: 1. You must be 16 or up to apply for a standard rank but to become an officer you must atleast have a min of 2 years Airsofting with evidence and being 18+. 2. During the interviews you must be able to portray Tactical understanding and an ability for working as a team due to the fact we are very milsim based. We will be fairly critical with the applications. 3. Be prepared to answer a set amount of questions during the interview from either selected officers or NCO’s within the team. 4. Once the application has been vetted and Confirmed you will be expected to either supply us with video evidence of your gameplay so we can get a rough feel for your play style or you get into a game with command in order to be assessed and then moved over to a select team that we deem fit. (See # 6) 5. We are a localised team within the Beds and Herts region crossing over to Buckinghamshire. If you are outside of that area and cannot provide any form of evidence as to how you play or you cannot get to an assessment you will remain within the server should your application be accepted and you will be put on a probation period to provide evidence leaving you with a 3 month deadline. If this is not met your application will be suspended and you will be removed from the server till further notice. 6. Once you have completed all online interviews before you are allocated a team you will be required to atleast play one game with command at special ops HQ the jungle in Milton Keynes not only as a part of assessment but to see where you will be placed within the team dependant on how you fit in with the rest of them. We pride ourselves on being able to remain as professional yet laid back, we can’t allow any issues to slip through. 

Hey guys just finished my gun room , yes it’s my downstairs W/C but still adds something different

End of the day, z/wagner shit is claiming hundreds+ lives every day, even today, on both sides, & let's not forget that some of those Russians aren't there out of choice, & others may have gone there having been misled by the dictatorships "free" media & state propaganda. On that basis, no site should be allowing these patches to be worn on gamedays, in 30+ years you might get away with them being part of a viable loadout (but I doubt it), but in 2023 they're just symbols of oppression & murder on a massive scale.

The British Forces Collection family updated..... Row 1. Row 2. Row 3 L115A3. L108A1. L7A2 GPMG L86A2. L119A1 CQB. L100A1 (G3) L85A2 UGL. L119A1 SFW. L91A1 (A3) L85A2 TES. Model 723. L92A1 (SD) L85A2. Model 715. L128A1 L22A2. L1A1 SLR. L74A1 LAW 66 Pistols L9A1 (hi power) L105A1 (sas crw P226) L105A2 (UOR P226) L131A1 (gen 4 glock)

Ok. So. In short, I've been developing something since April and I believe it's nearly at the stage where I can roll out public tests. I call this thing the MOSQUITO: So what is it? It is a body kit designed to turn AK AEG internals (V3 gearbox, hop up, selector parts, and grip) into one of the smallest, lightest, and most practical AEGs to date. It was originally modeled on the PP19 KEDR. However, adapting for airsoft made it took quite a spin, so it has now become its own thing. It combines the compactness of a V3 gearbox with regular MP5 magazines which are widely available. With a length of 563mm and a weight of 1.4kg fully set up (prototype, final may vary), it is even shorter, lighter, and compact than an ASG Scorpion EVO. Just recently finished making a working prototype of a "MP5K style" folding stock which, when folded, reduces the length down to approx 340mm: I plan on rolling these out commercially but I will need to do a few alpha/beta test runs before I can confidently do that. And that is why I am asking for potential testers. I need people with an AEG AK (specifically AK) to test this product out and give in depth feedback. I will spit out some hardware requirements: A V3 gearbox of an AK variant (Front wired is ideal. A short rear wired one will not work as it needs to stretch out the front. See above photos for guide) AK selector parts AK hop up unit An inner barrel of maximum length 130mm No external mosfet. Almost nothing will fit under the top cover. You may be able to lengthen the wire and mosfet outside the gun to fit inside a peq box but no guarantees. A gate picoAAB may fit inside but also no guarantees. In-gearbox mosfets are ideal like ones made by titan, perun, or jefftron. MP5 mags if you intend to game with it. I will only be supplying one. As you can see, for such a small gun, there will be quite a lot of restrictions. However, I can say that it worked wonderfully during a game day on the 9th. Here is a test I did turning a skirmish on the 9th: What I need to do now is to perfect the selector switch, make a small peq battery box for it, and possibly a rail for optics. I should lastly say that there will be a cost if you want to participate. It will be £70 which covers the cost of stainless steel parts that are used to hold it together, as well as a roll of filament for my use. So for less than a WE GBB pistol, you get an entire kit. The final price will likely be a lot higher (>150). I will be conducting this test in a discord server. So if you are interested, send me a PM with your discord tag and I will send you an invite to it. I should also mention that there will be only 5 testers during this first test. I need to test the waters to see what I can handle. There will be future runs. Thanks for reading.

My "stuff" was getting everywhere, so I picked up a cheap secondhand bookcase and turned it into a Airsoft storage unit 🙂

I hear he barely ever mentions the Embassy balcony.

Don't join any Facebook airsoft groups and ask for advice, it's filled with cunts Stay here, it's nicer

Well, thats another quarantine project done. Introducing the HK 417a2. It started life as two G28s; G28 LE #227 and G28 standard #IDontCareEnoughToCheck. #227 was my original G28 LE that Ive had for awhile, but it just kind of sat around as it was heavy, loud, and comparatively ineffective at range compared to my other DMRs. I wanted to upgrade it, but I wasn't sure what to do. Then comes the standard. I bought the standard off a secondhand airsoft app in November of 2019. It was a bastardization of a 417 and G28 - G28 receivers, grip, and outer barrel, but 417 buffer tube, stock, and rail. I didnt really care as it was dirt cheap and already had some decent upgrades in it. Turns out I should have cared, as not a month later the lower receiver cracked. Real bad. It may be repairable but itll be obvious. So I was left with a semi-upgraded but broken G417 and a stock G28 LE. Now, between these two I built a 417 for a mate. I believe I posted it here, but it involved making a custom fitting to mount a PTS UBR stock to it. I looks good, and works well. It also gave me some experience building 417s that I didn't have before, and it gave me an appreciation for the "Battle Rifle" class of weapon. Essentially, a BR is a carbine-length DMR. This would include short-barreled AR-10s, Scar mk17s, etc. In airsoft you follow rifleman rules. It just looks fancier. Around this time I started toying with the idea of creating my own BR, but in typical Spaz fashion it had to kind of stand out. Knowing how much of a pain VFC mk17s are to upgrade, I shied away from them, but 417s are expensive, with an approx $450 price tag. Add in the $500ish in internals I would have to do to field it and things weren't looking too good on that front either... Plus, there arent many aftermarket externals for the VFC 417s, and my squadmate already runs the one I built him. Then this broken G28 shows up and I had an idea... Until this year, I always preferred my guns having a dedicated setup. My M27 stays as it is, its sights are zeroed, I dont pull attachments from other guns, etc. However, with me recently turning my VFC Jag Arms PHX-15 SBR (see previous page) into a hybrid Krytac LMG with a second upper, I started thinking of doing the same with my G28 LE. I mean, if I built a lower based around trigger response why wouldn't it work in a DMR as well as a BR? So I began working on it. In this period I saw the news from SHOT that HK had revamped their 417 program into a new model - the HK 417a2. Shiny, new, not made in airsoft to date, and best of all - in RAL8000, just like my spare G28 receivers. So to begin I stripped the 417 sniper parts off the standard and sold them. No need for them, so why not. Ill make someone else happy. Bought a 417 short rail off someone selling one. Ordered a short outer barrel and gas impingement system from VFC. Started asking for quotes from various techs I trust on AEG gearboxes. Started looking into HPA as well, cause why not. Decided to go HPA as it'd be about the same cost, and more importantly, much quieter. Ordered a REVO kit from Italy (3D printed kit that allows the G28 to take aftermarket triggers, more HPA engines, standard M4 hops, and more). Ordered one of the new Wolverine Reaper Gen 2 Premium engines. Ordered a speed trigger, the internals needed to make the revo kit work, and an r-hopped barrel from the guy I always get my barrels from. Then it was onto externals. Ordered a fully trademarked Eotech XPS, G33 magnifier, KAC irons (closest I could find to gen 2 HK 417 irons - wasnt going to pay that much for the real thing - the rear sight alone is $300...), a Magpul AFG, a Surefire M600DF, and one of my signature blue-lasered PEQs. Rail arrived, and it sent it off with another project that will be unveiled here soon to be cerakoted in RAL8000. Rail returns, and most attachments come in. Decide I need a case, so pick up a Eylar 53in rifle case. Big, but i figured I'd need it. Case arrives, REVO kit arrives, Reaper arrives, bipod ordered and arrives. Install what I can, but Im still waiting for the order from VFC. Rest of the externals come in. Barrel from VFC finally arrived this morning, so in it went, gun went together, foam was plucked, and the HK 417a2/G28 project was complete. Now I can switch back and forth from G28 or 417a2 on the field depending on the role I want to play. The REVO kit also allows for full auto, so if the game allows it that is available. A fun project, a real head-turner (I hope), and it should have excellent range and accuracy. Im happy. Every part that should be is also trademarked, which really adds to the overall look.

Here is my child - Umarex/VFC G28 GBBR. I also have no money left. It has taken a long time to piece this thing together but man, it is one hell of a rifle!

Hey, I want to introduce you to a personal friend of mine... Peak nerd.

Ran our first game at the Trenches we've been building for the last year the other weekend! The theme was Gallipoli - our fictionalised battle of 'Hellespont', so I was running shorts and Pith Helmet with my WW1 kit... (Yes I regretted the shorts) One of the best moment was being held hostage by an enemy officer... I'd been ordered to guard him, as we had taken him prisoner in a raid. However, during an attack I was too busy killing two of the attackers to see him draw his pistol, no one had disarmed him! He almost made it out of our trenches before anyone noticed, but someone managed to shoot him in the shoulder past me, giving me the chance to grab his pistol! I then proceded to kill a further two attackers with it! (Photo credits to Crafty Sniper Photography) (The full kit, had the tunic on in morning as it was quite chilly)

Retro rifles 👌

Armour from Sam over at Apextech UK Helmet from USACyberpunk on Etsy RIF is the ARES KEL Tec RDB Edited on Photoshop

Thought I ought to do an updated 2022 collection photo... Got some of my grail guns that I thought I'd never get my grubby mits on!

Ive finally finished my WE apache k CQB build and its come out better than i dared to hope.

Liking the shottie holster! Finally with Christmas play time managed to finish what I’m calling an AK105-VSU. Tried and hopefully succeeded in painting it in such a way it works with both the GZ and RG load outs 🤞

I actually think they should double the minimum age. No under 25's, at least a three day induction course, six months of banks statements and a permission slip signed by your wife/partner. If you're not married/living with your partner, you can't play. Save the space for those of us who have a legitimate reason to leave the house at 6am on a weekend.

A couple of Vickers I made for a EH show a few years back

Hello guys, something from Czech republic ... (Vector 21, LLM-vr .. replica) More photos ... https://www.facebook.com/BW371/ or https://www.instagram.com/371jgbkvh

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Latest arrival GHK SIG 553 Bloody hell it’s SOLID Full steel construction, the only thing not steel is the aluminium top rail The Ceracote finish is lovely, more a green/grey than grey Cant wait to try this out tomorrow😍

This. 7 Years ago - when I finally realised that I was in real trouble - I was £23k in debt with Credit Cards. Luckily I was (just about) paying the minimum payment on time (so no late payments or defaults), but those minimum payments were skyrocketing, interest free offers were ending, and I was struggling. Thing is - my Wife had no idea I was in debt. It was when she found out that I had to confront the issue and acknowledge what an idiot I had been - all to buy the shiny newest thing and get the dopamine hit of receiving parcels in the post. I was deeply unhappy with my job which compounded the issue as I would sit at work browsing for stuff to buy rather than...y'know...working. It was all the more galling that I had literally nothing to show for it - I would buy stuff then sell it before I even used it (that includes Paintball and Airsoft gear). The proceeds of the sales would just get frittered away on more random and pointless crap - and never to tackle the Credit Card debt that was steadily accruing. I was very lucky. My Wife didn't divorce me (but it was close) - I don't know where I would be today if she had. I was able to change jobs and dramatically increase my income. Every spare penny went into repaying the debt - and it took 5 years - but for the last 2 years I have not owed a penny to anyone and I am determined to keep it that way. It can be done - I would also suggest taking a look at the 'Debt Free Wannabe' section of the Money Saving Expert forums, it helped us to identify the best course of action for the circumstances I landed myself (and family) in.

Diemaco collection. Model 715 (C7) Model 725 (C8) L119A1 Sfw L119A1 cqb Both L119's are still WIP. So I know there's a few errors.

Had to be done weighty beast test firing tomorrow

Clickbait title, poor quality content, airsoft drama. Kicking Mustang is that you?

So I finally fitted my TM AKM’s wood kit 😎 and for comparison a stock tm akm

So No2 son decided as he’s working and earning now he want a new gun that he paid for himself , I said have look on the forum anything like the look of and I can get it for you . and he decided on a Cyma M14 (being sold by @Majestykthanks bud 👍) which I will admit really threw me , did think he’d go for something more modern BUT he is my son so he certainly doesn’t follow the rest of the sheep ! 😁 any hoo started out as a two-tone and after a few hrs of work on the stock now looks a bit better I think .

The retro Diemaco C8 is almost there. So far; G&P M733 Upper G&P C8 lower G&P Steel flash hider G&P Steel 653 barrel G&P Steel M16A1 front sight GUARDER real delta ring RS buffer spacer plate RS diemaco but pad RS ar sling RS sling swivel RS barrel/muzzle washer Still to source. Correct style buffer tube and locking ring. Steel parts I.E mag release, selector lever etc.

Instead of imposing a limit on all sites, would it not be easier to impose a limit on Siggi and KM? Everyone agree on 0?

Personally I totally agree with the players that complained to the Marshals and believe this should be dealt with in the strongest possible terms. Why do I feel so strongly on this issue, Two reasons: First it’s a matter of player safety. If a player is allowed to get away with this behaviour then the only realistic way for the enemy team to react is to treat everyone doing the ‘dead mans walk’ as a live player and open fire. This is going to lead to massive over shooting/over killing on the poor sods who are genuinely ‘dead’ and actually making the slog back to the safe zone/respawn. Yes there is an argument that dead players should have pistols holstered and hand/rifle in the air, but the reality is this only happens until they have withdrawn from the firefight that killed them and is impractical if the terrain is even moderately uneven and the respawn is more than about 50 yards away, particularly on larger sites where there can be multiple engagements between where a player ‘died’ and the respawn. Secondly, it is completely unrealistic and against the spirit of the game in an honesty based system that is intended to mimic engagements with firearms. It is not being clever or sneaky it is just as dishonest as players who don’t take their hits, in fact more so as there is no possible argument that the offending player may not have felt a BB at the end of its range that hits a bit of gear. It is straight out gaming the mechanics of the system.

Being furloughed, and the lockdown stopping play thought I'd tick off something I've wanted to do for ages. Painted the MK18, and even the MK46! I'm now the proud owner of two very salty looking RIF's wanting to create a worn 'in country look' Painting a RIF is of course very subjective, but I hope you all like. This was the first time I've ever sprayed one of my collection, and it was a lot of fun!

@Airsoft Anonymous Ltd actually have a service where you can request a little cardboard certificate that congratulates you on your "Prize". Brilliant

At ACEAIRSOFT last weekend...weather was shitty, but was still an awesome day with some fun scenarios. Since starting airsoft back in Sep'17 and throwing myself into my favourite hobby (Used as coping mechanism after losing my old man) My health has improved tenfold and I've lost 5stone in weight and still heading in the right direction. I love Airsoft......

Work in progress, BRT CAR15-SD 300 blk replica. This gun encompasses all the best bits of various guns imo; Its a sub-gun / PDW - my fave size. MP5SD vibes - just love MP5s. Retractable stock - again MP5. AR controls - ergonomics. 20rd mags - easy to shoot when prone. 300 subsonics - cool as F in real steel.

Not my normal setup but it was only like this for the day so was committed to digital celluloid.

Going by the photo it wasn’t two-tone under the VCRA. The blue is less than half of the pistol, and it’s also not a designated VCRA colour. Blue should be bright blue. The blue slide complies with American standards for a training pistol. If we step away from the outrage for a moment - police respond to firearms call out, place individual in handcuffs, establish the circumstances, remove handcuffs.

Everyone loves an MP7 right!? I don't think I'm going to paint this one...