Leaderboard

You go with something like this (Yes, I know it's gopping to look at)

Go SAS style with a humongous maglite bolted to the top. A full sized maglite, that is.

Welcome fellow Berkshire-er (is that a word? can we make it a word?) There's a couple of great sites in Berkshire area, whereabouts do you live? Me and some of the others on the forum go to Skirmish Wycombe quite often, if you ever need some cannon fodder to join you, let me know

Off to my first milsim this weekend and filling my squad's sniper role. Wish me luck? I don't think it'll be my cup of tea, but you can't knock it until you try it, so I'm giving it a try!

Must say I much prefer the DMR role playing outdoors compared to assault

After doing crush tests, I can attest that heavier BB crumbs taste considerably different to .2 crumbs. Not sure it adds any value to the discussion but thought it was worth noting

I haven't found anything better than Revision wipes. I've tested them side-by-side against Cat Crap, Rain-X anti-fog, shaving foam, washing up liquid, spit, and potato. Yes, potato. The Revision wipes are literally the clear winner. However, as you've found, they don't actually remove moisture. For that you need ventilation and I'm a big fan of fans. Even the tiny fans in FMA goggles (or more expensive versions) do shift a bit of air, especially if you over-volt them. Best results I've got are from 12V blowers, often sold as 3D printer fans, run off a spare 7.4V lipo, and a piece of tubing to get the air inside the goggles. Or ExFog, if you want the commercial alternative.

I knew I'd seen it cheaper somewhere - but couldn't remember the vendor! I picked out Z1 only because I saw it in the store last week. Worth a punt for £9 IMO.

^^^ That gopping solution is surprisingly cheap from PatrolBase. I've gone with a clamp on rail (MP5 / G3) and an offset mount FTW. Good job on scoring a Galaxy, they're cheap, fun little guns, and surprisingly shooty: mine was 0.9J (310-315 fps) out of the box and is up to 1.04J now (335fps) with a 6.01mm AOLS barrel, Maple Leaf rubber and an M100 spring (plus o-ring stetching and greasing) on the stock air components. I think the stock spring is maybe an M90. Should you ever need to know, the hop unit is Jing Gong equivalent. The weak points are the sloppy hop, stock battery, the motor and the lonnnnng trigger pull. 7.4V lipos can fit down the tube and you can even just about squeeze in a small mosfet - I recommend switching the wiring to the rear. Retain the plastic gubbins in the front though, as it gives some rigidity to the muzzle. Pushing or pulling on the grip can deflect the muzzle, which is an issue if you've got a tracer or suppressor on it, it can actually cause the BBs to impact on it. The slide hop isn't great, it's not precise and mine was loose from the factory and loved to wind itself off. I'd recommend tightening up the screws on both sides, cable-tying the hop arm to the barrel, and/or packing rubber o-rings under it to give it more stickiness. A better motor really helps with trigger response. With a Big Dragon M140, 7.4V lipo and mosfet mine is pretty snappy now. The trigger itself is problematic, you can't shim out all the slack or else it doesn't reset, although I've got small pieces of rubber glued front and back to take out as much as possible. An optical trigger mosfet might solve it. Luke at Negative Airsoft demonstrates on this pre-gopped example (and yes, mine was missing the motor pinion grub screw too)...

New charging handle for my GHK M4 a little bit of filing & it works a charm 😎

You know that film they have over cameras at the motor racing where it scrolls so never gets dirty? That, but on the inside of goggles. Seriously though, it’s all about airflow, but there won’t be much of that when you’re hiding out behind a barricade taking fire from all sides. So that leaves us with forced air or heated lenses.

No, we were at our usual outdoor site (don't want to name them as they are great and this seems to be a bit of an unusual situation). I do think ammo needs to be checked as personally at multiple sites I have never actually seen a proper off the cuff chrono taking place.

Do you need IR illuminator built in? Somogear PEQ-15/UHP with IR illuminator should be released by the end of the month. Or their NGAL with IR illuminator and laser is available now. Otherwise their regular, cheaper NGAL, PEQ-15s and CQBL-1 are available right now.

It is an interesting one. My friends and I were at a site in Scotland the other weekend and all of us have reports of being hit harder than anything we have felt before. Its all somewhat unsubstantiated and conjecture but honestly I got hit in the chops (wearing a facemask luckily) and it was not like a normal hit I have experienced before. To add to my comment tho, as long as the Joules output is within site limits I suspect that it just carries more momentum and so feels harder at longer ranges. It does raise an interesting debate regarding minimum engagement distances as they are currently set up for standard ammo.

Yup, I was very surprised to discover that they're usable as a woodland primary, even as stock. Not something that I'd expected, and it demonstrates how much barrel length doesn't really matter in airsoft. I was minded to short-stroke mine, but I was too cheap to spring for a full metal racked piston. Although thinking about it, if you only remove the teeth that aren't going to get engaged, then it's not like you're putting any more strain on the plastic ones. If you're binning off the vertical grip, have you considered making a whole new front grip piece out of kydex?

Latest news on said numpteh - on plus side no mention of Airsoft on the beeb news pages A politics student who called for the "extermination" of Jewish people has been found guilty of 12 terrorism charges. Andrew Dymock, from Bath, established the banned right-wing groups System Resistance Network (SRN) and Sonnenkrieg Division. The 24-year-old was convicted at the Old Bailey and is due to be sentenced on 24 June. As the verdicts were delivered, he told jurors "thank you for killing me".

only issue is that u can see the wires…. Was sooooooo off putting when I had a Ford a few years back BUT I do miss the lack of scrapage on those frosty mornings

Some new warm weather boots, so I don’t dehydrate through my feet this Sunday. Winter stalking boots with goretex and thinsulate and 26 degrees do not mix

i'd be more interested in the ford system for antifog with the tiny wires to heat up the lenses. i vaguely recall seeing some images from shot show or somesuch for a product that worked like that, but i can't remember who made them and no idea if they're still in business. there was also someone on here looking at doing it DIY, going all fancy n shit with moisture sensors.

Genius!!! Great idea! They say genius is 99% perspiration and 1% inspiration...........

Only thing I'd note here is once you land on a grip you want it's worth doing a Google (usually grip name + UK i.e. Magpul K2 UK) to see if you can source one that's already in the country of a similar/cheaper price. The cheapest postage you can get from Brownells is £5-6 if memory serves so worth having a dig around before ordering straight from there. Whether you bother following this advice, well as always, that's entirely up to you.

Well fuck me, I had an AKA Viking as well. It was all-black, PBX milled (I had imported via a guy operating as 'Alpha Paintball' direct from AKA), no eyes though, although I believe subsequent owners had it drilled. Also had an Angel A4 Fly and 06 Speed - both with vert grips.

as mentioned i'd guess that the choice of filler is going to be a cost/weight balance. if you want a white bb then you couldn't use iron so whatever you're using (eg ceramic) is probably going to be more expensive. aside from curiosity, i'm not entirely sure how much it matters what they're filled with? the effect on target is going to be largely dictated by the energy, and anything strong enough to not shatter/permanently deform is going to have largely the same effect regardless of what it's made of?

I guess you were an Angel shooter then....😉

Hard to tell precisely given the quality of the image provided but my best educated guess would be that it's a B5 Systems Type 23 P-Grip. If swapping out from the standard A2 most folks will run RS grips on GBBRs (because amongst other things, they don't have to be made wider to accomodate for a motor). Over here most RS grips will run your about £30. Popular ones with this sort of angle would be: Magpul K2 Magpul K2+ BCM Gunfighter Mod3 (my personal preference) Some variant of Ergo Grip Some variant of Hogue grip There are a few places that stock RS grips from various brands in the UK (Magpul being the easiest to find in my experience). Brownells have a wide variety, but if you haven't ordered from there in the past be aware that they 'drop ship' stuff over here from their stock in the US. Once it arrives over here every order I've made has been fulfilled by Parcelforce, usually a 24 hour service, turn around is usually 2-3 weeks though I have heard others say that's been a bit longer of late.

Changed the MP5K Style foregrip for an SP89 style and then I just need a flashlight to finish it off

A great practical bit of kit, especially from PB at £9 and most likely the solution to all current and future mounting issues. But form always takes precident over function and that is, as stated, goppy af. I love the os SAS style of the mp5k, Rogerborg this looks great, nearly the top heavy maglight stegosaurus we crave. Fantastic info on the Galaxy too, thank you very much. I have currently just got it stock with a 7.4 lipo but as you say the trigger feels a little sloppy. Will look into motors. I have put some electrical tape under the slide hop as I have heard this was an issue.

If you can find a full stock king arms FAL carbine or as Tackle said the JG58 your well on your way to fabricating a parsable L1A1 , to build mine I used an SVD flash hider a G36 6inch barrel extender , removed the permanent cocking handle (it’s just screwed on) cut , sanded and resin coated a small block of wood down to the size of the folding cocking handle on an SLR to replace it , made a carrying handle from a length of heavy gauge wire and a short length of broom handle shaped with finger grooves , swapped the round fire selector nub for an oblong plastic one I’d carved from a small piece of plastic then finally filled in the auto and FN markings on the receiver with a small amount of Mil putty . A lot carried Sterling’s at the teeth end of the military snake , most radio operators , section medics and a good few officers carried them . I had an S&T Sterling and it did indeed have cracking range too it and yes it did also have an intermittent fault when firing , sometimes it wouldn’t fire auto only semi when set to both selections but after a bit of fiddling and investigation I found the fault( on mine any way) was caused by a pair of screws coming loose in the selector mechanism . To fix it I removed the selector lever , then a small panel from under the lever , tighten up the two screws and then return the small panel and selector , job done .👍

it's also why afaik a lot of the heavier ammo comes in "stealth" config, whilst some manufacturers can do the heavies in lighter colours (presumably with a different filler) a lot of them are like that. never thought to try something as simple as testing them with a magnet.

Just picked up a few bits and bobs including dummy plates. I've only been using a p/c for about 10 years so it's about time. I've also ordered a patch for a very old PMC 😁

The guns for Brit kit are the hardest part. There's a set of blueprints for the Sterling on the net, You need to be able to weld and bend some sheet metal to make it. But most of the gun is a single section of pipe with holes and slots in the correct place. My shooting partner has been toying with the idea of making one for a few years, but so far nothing has come of it. SLR wise, your not going to find a KA one for a reasonable price unless they do a rerun of the old model. There's always rumours about this happening but so far nothing has been seen. It is possible to convert a metric fal, but again you will struggle to get the correct body kit. My personal pick for Brit kit would be the L42A1, It's pretty much a modified Lee Enfield, but it saw active service from the 70's to the Gulf war. It shouldn't be a difficult task to modify an SMLE to have a decent approximate silhouette. Outside of that looking at other nations. AK's are pretty much available for the whole period in a lot of styles, Short of the RIS variants no one will really care. Same goes for kit. There are no real rules for people with AK's in cold war games. The Soviets have some nice gear, a lot will just opt for chicom or terrorist kit. G3's are also pretty easy to get. And since the Cold war ended in 1991, and Flecktarn was issued into trials in the 1980's and had it's proper launch in 1990 with the German reunification. If you want the older look then the olive drab moleskin German uniform with the G3 was in service for pretty much the whole of the Cold war. The G3 is the easy way to get a battle rifle since there are several good variants out there, and there is still a lot of stock for the correct running gear. It's also a universal gun that drops into a lot of other period conflicts. There's a list of the wars it's been involved with on the wiki and you can pick just about any conflict from the 1960's right up to now, And it'll drop into axis or allies depending on what kit you are running with it. Run it with just a OD parka and claim to be a communist partisan, or run in uniform and be an allies force.

Some might say building a vac form and making a buck isn't exactly easy or cheap. the OP was asking if there was anything cheaper than a Well AEP Uzi

Hi, ALL! 👋 Bought a 2nd hand RIF, it turned up today, can’t wait to test it and more importantly use it when I get the chance! 🔫😆🤞 Another one to add to my collection! 🤪👍 💷GAMBLE💷

“Veni , Vidi , Rem Perditam Voltus Turbatione Inambilis Sciurus” “We came , We saw , We lost interest when distracted by a squirrel ” !

Hello, model and prop maker here... You say that this prop needs to fire a projectile. I am assuming given the disposable nature of the weapon this will be fired at a person? No go. I'm assuming that this will be an amateur production without any paperwork/production number/insurance... No go. If its for airsoft use then you would need to get inside it. You will also need to look into the law. I don't want to crush your enthusiasm but I don't think you realise just how much shit you can get in here. Some details of what you plan to do with it would be very informative. Given its "story needs" I am pretty convinced that it's for filming. I am very concerned about set safety with anything gun shaped weather if fire blanks or a puff of smoke. You must have a scene outline... So how are you (or your actor) using it?

New, smaller Hawke scope, proper innerbarrel and muzzle break fitted, I think I can call this one finished! Can’t wait to get some mud on this one!

😳

Could be quite interesting, but as @Samurai says, it could become quite stale, quite quickly for regular players if the layout is too fixed. @Enid_PuceflangeI doubt that the venue will play out 'tactically' once the Speedsofters arrive. My perfect CQB site would be fully modular (wooden buildings on industrial castors) to change the layout, low cap mags only (to reduce the trigger spamming) and separate game days altogether for speedsoft.

Hi bud I picked one of these up last month, quite literally by accident and WOW!! I love it, I am yet to field it, but having fired circa 1000 rounds through it , I love the feel, the weight, the RECOIL! 😈 My one for some reason doesn’t like the metal Stanag magazines, but works flawlessly with the Polymer G5 ones like yours I changed my nozzle to the 1j one and it seems very consistent 👍

Blackhawk STRIKE plate Carrier.

Only change to this pic is a foregrip and new Wilcox m2 mount on the vortex.... GHK mk18 gbbr

I bought the non working Pulse Rifle from Patrolbase boneyard because well , its a freaking Pulse rifle ! Fingers crossed I opened it up and found the wiring from battery to motor stuffed into the magwell . Twenty minutes later ...fully working . Well happy 😁

Sorry, but this is one of those pointless threads, destined to never actually reach fruition.

This evening's quote was, " I think the codeine's kicking in because I'm pretty sure I just saw a fish go by"

Sr25 recent build Absolute nail driver . Chucking .43s out

Clearly you're new here. You're supposed to kick off, arguing with everyone and calling us various names (bonus points for DMing people offering to fight them) before giving up and disappearing off the forum forever.

Hi there, thanks for the feedback, as I was really unsure on where to price this. Could you possibly message me with some constructive assistance?

I've found the RA-Tech nozzle and barrel to be good investments. The barrel have great accuracy and the nozzle has lasted 6 years now. The RA-Tech bolt unfortunately was way off spec and needed a fair amount of material sanding off the receiver to get it to cycle smoothly. Mapleleaf buckings are great with the metal c ring which helps seal and grip the nozzle. I chose 60d for 450 fps, if you are running it sub 350 the 70d will most likely be too hard, 50d will probably perform better. I would recommend getting a proper scope that is rated to recoil, Mine destroyed 2 scopes before I switched to a vortex.