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About PureSilver

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    London, U.K.

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  1. That's true, and I shouldn't be giving legally sketchy advice. What do you suggest for @sam beach WSW's need to be able to clear jams by reverting to full auto, or cycle completion without the ability to select full-auto? Maybe a German-market FCU with cycle completion but without full-auto, like this Gate?
  2. Just trim a bit off the selector plate. No ugly irreversible external modifications, gun won't go into full auto, no problem. A better solution is a programmable FCU, especially because there will be times you want to be able to go into full-auto (e.g. to resolve a semi-auto lockup, which is even more common in guns with strong springs, like DMRs). If you don't already have at least a MOSFET, which you absolutely must, now is a good time to fit one that can be programmed to have semi-auto only in any fire selector position.
  3. Indeed. We aren't in dire need of more scrub woodland sites, we've got those coming out of our ears. Massive open fields? Passchendaele wasn't fun the first time around. Woodland doesn't play to airsoft's strengths, it plays to its weaknesses - unrealistically short range and an inability to punch through foliage. What we need is more urban/indoor sites. It doesn't have to be bleeding welts CQB, but engagement ranges topping out at 40-50m and averaging 20-30 would be ideal. Nobody's expecting a landlord to spend £500k reconstructing Longmoor; shipping containers aren't that expensive. Container yards are outdoors (obviating the massive expense of renting warehouses for plywood kill houses) and can be put up on the cheapest, crappiest woodland airsoft sites already use. Multistorey is as simple as stacking them on top of each other, you can cut windows and doors in them easily, you can easily bolt internal structures in, and they can be reconfigured and moved easily when the site or the landlord decides it's time for a change. There is a reason that real military training facilities (including in the UK) and a lot of paintball and airsoft sites abroad are built like this. Most importantly, putting up temporary structures like these don't require "change of use" planning permission. These can go up on land coded for grazing, which is usually a lot cheaper than hardstandings (although those would be much better). I find it baffling that we have so few of these, and they're so small, when they're downright common in the US. I count only 35 containers in the site below, they haven't even put stairs and railings up to use the roofs and and it's still far bigger than the average airsoft site needs to be. It's especially useful in the South because they have a far smaller footprint for the same number of distinct spaces than a few barrels and pallets nailed together across a big flat area. Something half the size of a football pitch (when I'd guess the average woodland site is ten or twenty times that) would be perfectly acceptable if it had two storeys of containers on it. Dirty Dog Airsoft - never been, no idea what it's like - has a pretty minimal yard (looks to be 23 absolutely wrecked containers), and that looks far more interesting than the muddy field it was previously. 10 seconds online - not hunting for the cheapest, most damaged, crappiest containers which would still be more than adequate for sitting in a muddy field on jacks - puts a 40' container at £1,500, which is £3.75/ft2 (half that if you use the roof too) for something you own in perpetuity. For reference, for a warehouse in King's Langley (the same area as Red1's The School) you'll be paying ~£13.00/ft2 per annum for something that you can't take with you when you leave. I'd really like to see someone take the £50k it costs to rent a 4,000ft2 warehouse for a year in the South and instead rent a field half the size of a football pitch and put up 30 absolutely rock-bottom containers for a total of 32,800ft2 of one- and two-storey containers with internal rooms, windows, doors, roofs, alleys, courtyards...
  4. AEG: ASG CZ Scorpion EVO3A1. Hands down the best AEG SMG on the market at the moment - much less expensive (at least in the UK) than the VFC MP7, which is the only real like-for-like competitor when you bear in mind the ASG's factory FCU with stop-on-empty, 3rd burst, and bolt lock/release. The MP7 is entirely proprietary whereas the EVO3A1 uses fairly common parts where possible and has excellent factory support. I have one and it's the most fuss-free gun I've ever owned. They used to be sub-£300 but Brexit makes them £340ish, though I wouldn't hesitate to buy lightly used. These come up for sale pretty regularly, and it's a good way to get a package deal with a combat load of magazines. GBB: ASG B&T MP9. Significantly less expensive than MP7s, excellent aftermarket support (though expect to pay handsomely for a full suite of Wii-Tech upgrades) and good all-weather performance. I would actively be looking to buy a used example with the Wii-Tech upgrades already done as GBBRs depreciate like a front-engined Ferrari. These also come up for sale pretty regularly.
  5. You should expose (and be able to see) the end of the handguards. It might drop free, or you might need someone to help you. As usual with Larry Potterfield's videos, an egregiously specialised tool is being used for a simple task. The video does allow you to see the handguard being released by the delta ring, though.
  6. M16 handguards come off the same way as regular ones - pull back the delta ring until the handguard pops out, then you can pull the handguard backwards out of the handguard cap (which is just behind the gas block). I don’t have experience with that specific G&P but I all-but guarantee they haven’t changed it just for one gun. The delta ring spring is very stiff because you want the handguards to stay exactly where they are when shooting. It’s also harder to defeat that spring on the early M16s because they have the straight delta ring; the A2 and onwards use a tapered one to help you get a better grip on it. If you’re struggling, put the butt of the gun on the floor and use both hands to push down on the delta ring.
  7. The manual shows that the flash hider doesn't screw on to the end of the outer barrel extension - it's just slipped over and retained by a grub screw, which is why you can just spin it. You need to unscrew the thread protector (the knurled bit), which is a separate part to the flash hider, to reveal the grub screw. Back the screw out and the flash hider should just pull off.
  8. If you're chiefly interested in plinking, have you considered an air pistol or BB gun? Unlike airsoft guns you won't have to buy one in garish colours, and they are orders of magnitude more accurate than our toys. Spring pistols are bluntly chiefly a children's toy these days, and AEPs are a bit crap too. If you want to go for an airsoft gun, I'll add another vote for an STTI Mk.23 - it is an immensely capable gun and very cost-effective both to buy and to shoot. I would resist the urge to buy the cheapest possible gun - it will be very disappointing, and then it will break, and then you will be back to square one except the cost of the gun poorer. Save up a bit more and buy something worth owning.
  9. I would be extremely cautious about cracking open a Scorpion EVO just because. I am basically incapable of leaving the guns I buy stock, and what I have to show for that is hideous expenditure and a great deal of frustration for often minimal gain. The only gun I have that's bone stock is my EVO3A1, and perhaps not coincidentally it is by far the most reliable gun I've ever owned. I would definitely resist the urge to go swiping your credit card through all the insides just because you can. The stock leaf spring and the charging handle retainer are easily-fitted quality-of-life upgrades; if you want them, go ahead. The speed trigger and the hop-up wheel are also purely QOL, but they're going to be much more involved to fit. If you want them, get them, but I personally would set them to one side and keep them for a potential failure or in-depth maintenance which requires you to open the gun up anyway. I wouldn't strip my gun down for the sake of a shorter trigger pull and a hop-up wheel I can adjust with gloves on.
  10. Vortex Crossfire red dot left, Aimpoint Micro H-1 right. The H-1 was released in 2007, the Crossfire red dot was released in 2018. They have the same lens diameter, the same dot size, the same control layout, the same overall dimensions and weight and use the same battery. If you want to, you can choose to believe these are totally unrelated and independent designs. I choose to believe that the Crossfire red dot is one of a number of very-slightly-cosmetically-altered clones of the Aimpoint T-1. This isn't revelatory; a number of companies' product lines include (or are entirely composed of) lightly cosmetically altered cloned red dot optics. Primary Arms are the most notable - their equivalent of the H-1/Crossfire red dot is the MD-RB-AD. There's a hierarchy here - Primary Arms are basically equivalent to unbranded things you get off AliExpress, but Vortex are more expensive. Vortex's Strikefire II and Primary Arms' PA30MMRD-AD are both straight clones of the Aimpoint Comp ML2, for example, but the Vortex is 40% more expensive. That extra cost should reflect a better build process (some combination of materials, processes and QC) and/or an improved warranty. Like I said, there is value added in buying a Chinese-made "inspired by" optic rebranded by or manufactured on behalf of a named company. You get vastly better QC, you get support that otherwise literally would not exist - which might include a good warranty - and you get vastly better QC. It's up to OP to decide if those guarantees - a sight that works, and will keep working or will be replaced - are worth the price premium to him over an unbranded version of the same product.
  11. You have basically two choices - £10-50 buys you any one of a number of unbranded Chinese clone optics, or £100-200 buys you one of a number of branded Chinese clone optics. The Vortex Crossfire red dot, Bushnell TRS-25 and various other Aimpoint H-1 rip-offs totally unique 1x20 micro red dot sights fall into the latter category; they're all made in China just like the other clones are, but with significantly better quality control - they are undoubtedly much better sights - and sometimes with a good warranty. Whether you want to spend £14 on "someone described a T-1 to us over a very bad telephone line" or £145 on "definitely not a clone H-1, your Honour" is up to you. My $25 T-1 clone (with a Guns Modify lens protector that was almost as much as the sight itself) has done just fine on my AKS-74U for about two years now. It's nowhere near as nice (the brightness adjustability is coarse and there's a pronounced blue tint through the sight) as my genuine Comp M2, but it was also 1/15th of the price of the used Aimpoint.
  12. The parts are from the right people, but I agree with @Asomodai that it's premature to start spending money: you don't even know what's wrong with the gun (other than being very cheaply made) yet. I'd start by tearing the gun down and setting it up properly, because JG didn't have time to do that before it left the factory. Very basic sniper tuning uses things like dental floss, pencil erasers and Teflon tape - things that are basically free, not hundreds of euros. You're going to have to learn how to disassemble, tune, reassemble, test and repeat anyway because I guarantee you're going to be doing it a lot over the life of the rifle. It costs you nothing and you already have problems to solve, so you might as well start now.
  13. G&P by a country mile. Buying a basic TM AEG (with the possible exception of the M14s and High Cycles) these days is a mug's game: you can get the same thing made out of much better materials for similar or even less money elsewhere. GP-289 is the pre-A1 M16. You want GP-290: M16A1 with teardrop forward assist and Colt trades. £299 from FireSupport isn't unreasonable, especially when they seem to be out of stock pretty much everywhere else.
  14. Waiting on a regulator and other CO2 components, but hopefully I’ll start to have answers early next year. I’ll update the thread when I do. They’re not really intended to be a sniper’s scope, but I’ve found G&P’s ACOGs to have very superior glass compared to other airsoft-grade sights. I’ve had a couple of clone Leupold 3.5-10x40 Mk.IVs and compared to those my old G&P 4x32 really was extremely nice. 4x is really all you’ll need in airsoft (you'll miss faffing with adjustable magnification and focus a lot less than you think you will), you don't get the fish-eye that seems endemic to airsoft-grade adjustable-magnification scopes, and the sight is extremely compact and basically indestructible. They're heavy and the eye relief is unforgiving, but they’re really good optically. I replaced my G&P with a real TA01NSN, and while the Trijicon is a lot nicer and has things the G&P didn't (like tritium illumination) the G&P was excellent and entirely adequate for airsoft. G&P make a few different models; I had GP-035 - pretty much the most basic one. £85 for the sight, plus £7.50 for a polycarbonate lens and £7.50 for a killflash to put the lens in gives you an extremely rugged and high-quality BB-proofed optic for £100 - not bad. If I recall correctly a VisionKing shortdot is about £60 plus the mount and a lens protector, so there's probably only £20ish in it. If you want to see how the ACOG looks on the shortest possible SRS, let me know - I can get a picture of mine.
  15. I have a PDI in my Fast Hop G-Spec with the FOW nub and drop-in R-hop patch. I’ve barely had a chance to try it but it does all fit together.
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