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About PureSilver

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    London, U.K.

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  1. I mean £565 plus £100-160 equals £665-725, and £500 is 75% of £665 and 69% of £725. 70-75% of RRP for a gun with less than one bottle of BBs through it isn't even all that high, although I would probably expect to receive more like 65-70% simply based on how much returns diminish after £400. I think you might also be forgetting to factor in the high cost of quality accessories which are usually included with NGRS packages. Taking this Delta as an example: Gun ~£550 Grip ~£20 Magazines ~£25ea. ODIN M12 Sidewinder ~£50 (assuming it's genuine, and I'm not sure there are tan fakes) IMAX B6 ~£35 Four batteries ~£50 That's £880, of which the £500 asking price is 57%. If he split the magazines, speedloader and charger off as separate items he'd be asking the equivalent of £341 for the gun and the batteries, which I would describe as "acutely reasonable".
  2. I'm not so sure about that as a strategy. Of all the guns my friends and I have imported - which must be substantially more than 100, I would have thought, by the time you go through all my various teammates - the only one that has ever been "seized" (I was told it's actually "detained" while they conduct enquiries, it's only "seized" if they're never going to give it to you) was a gun that was sent with a UKARA number but to an address that didn't match the number. Until @Asomodai's my gun was the only one I'd ever heard of being detained. If they'll detain any gun they find during an inspection, that means that that parcel was the only one they'd inspected out of all 100+ parcels we've ever received and countless thousands of other ones. It would be a pretty big coincidence if the only parcel of ours that has ever been inspected was also the only one where the details were wrong. If you wait for them to detain the gun and then get in touch, as @Asomodai will tell you (and as happened to my SVD) it is an absolute nightmare to extract it from them. It's difficult to get in touch with them, nobody you speak to seems to know anything, and the turnaround time between establishing that they have the gun, what they need from you to release it, who you send it to, them receiving it, them getting around to checking what you sent, and them releasing the gun is just glacial. My gun took something like 82 days to get to me.
  3. If the gun's struggling with every magazine, I would say the problem is more likely to be in the gun than the magazines. The magazines barely have any parts and the ones that go usually do so very audibly - if the seals are damaged the magazines leak, loudly. You can pull the exhaust valves and check they're undamaged (look for damage to the O-rings) but it would be unusual for all the magazines to go at the same time. How much gun maintenance - cleaning and lubrication - has the pistol itself had? Is the slide sticking on the rails or hammer? Have springs worn out or snapped? Have you stripped the slide and BBU completely apart, cleaned everything, checked the O-rings in the BBU and the piston head etc.? Is the nozzle cracked, or the rocket valve or its spring damaged or missing? IME 95% of the time a GBBP's not running right you can trace the problem to the BBU. I would start by stripping the gun's slide completely apart, cleaning it with isopropyl alcohol (even warm soapy water would do the trick as long as you wash the soap off afterwards) and inspecting the components for damage very carefully. Hairline fractures in the nozzle might not be immediately apparent, as might damage to the rocket valve. If everything appears OK (refer to the TM manual), relubricate the seals with silicone oil and the friction points with a gun lubricant that's not silicone oil (I like Froglube). Then try shooting the gun. If that doesn't change anything, let us know.
  4. That sounds pretty unlikely: I would have thought they were almost certainly made by WinGun like every other CO2 revolver out there. Isn’t it an ASG licensed product? Did the guy manning the booth confirm Chiappa were making them in-house?
  5. Time Left: 4 days and 20 hours

    • For sale
    • Used

    For sale is a genuine select-fire AUG A1 stock and furniture in olive drab. This includes the stock, sling pin, buttpad and foregrip. These parts were made under license to Steyr by SME Ordnance for the Malaysian military. The rifle was replaced in Malaysian service by M4s, made under license to Colt by SME Ordnance, and the AUG A1s were surplussed. These parts are military surplus and exhibit the usual wear, but remain in full working order. These parts are weapon furniture, and are not controlled items in the UK. I will ship these items internationally, but only upon confirmation that it is legal for you to receive them. Purchase price of these parts exceeds £325. This furniture almost fits the GHK AUG GBBR - the receiver needs to be shaved about 0.5mm, likewise the bolt. The magazine fits the well and locks in correctly. Some work would be required to seat the trigger pack. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to get in touch.


    London - GB

  6. This advert is COMPLETED!

    • For sale
    • Used

    For sale is a GHK Steyr AUG A2. This is an exceptionally high-performance and reliable GBBR with unparalleled factory support. It is in very good unskirmished condition with very minimal wear, and functions as new. Included with the rifle is a 38rd green gas magazine. As standard the rifle is fitted with the AUG's 1.5x optical sight, which is crystal clear with no scratches. Also included with the rifle is a custom (3D-printed with threaded inserts) short Picatinny sight rail for use with aftermarket optics. This rifle has exceptional gas efficiency even by GHK's high standards, as you can see in the video below. This rifle retails for approximately £450 in Europe when it can be found in stock. Also for sale (not included) is a complete set of RS AUG furniture. This is not a direct fit to the GHK, and a machinist would probably be required to do the job neatly. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to get in touch.



  7. You don’t have any choice, really. There’s nothing out there performs like people expect a DMR to out of the box. If you want a DMR, you have to do the tuning that the factory didn’t have the time or money to do for you. Even if you buy used you’ll have to learn how to do preventative maintenance and repairs - if you want to get the last 10% of performance, you’ll have to be prepared to put in about another 50% of the work. The cheapest, lowest-maintenance and simplest way to do this is to get a mechanical remote-line gas drop-in conversion, like a Mancraft PDiK. That means no messing around with AEG gearboxes, which will be the worst bit of this whole process. If you don’t want to do that, the only thing we can really recommend is good guns to build into a DMR. High-volume guns that might be suitable include Real Sword’s SVD, and its vastly less expensive CYMA clone and ASP bullpup equivalent. Whatever it is you pick, you want good parts support and you want it to be easy to work on.
  8. For all-weather reliability I’d go VFC MP7 as the smallest and lightest battery-operated good gun I can think of that’s also capable of >350FPS. If you want to go bargain basement and don’t care about having a stock, CYMA make plastic MP5Ks that use a full-size V3 gearbox. AEPs are very bad and I would never recommend buying one. When it comes to gas SMGs you have tons of options. The KSC/KWA/ASG MP9 is quite small for an SMG and it’s great. The TM MP7 is actually smaller than it should be (about 0.89:1, I think) so it’s smaller than the VFC and it’s also great. There are machine pistols but they’re all a lot less reliable than the ASG or TM. KSC/KWA/ASG’s M11A1 is microscopic and has a ridiculous ROF, but it’s old and prone to damage if you slam the magazine in with the bolt forward. The KSC/KWA vz.61 Škorpion is also tiny and fast-shooting, but it’s also pretty elderly. Select-fire pistols just aren’t designed for prolonged full auto and don’t last as long as they should. If your primary desire is laying down suppressive fire, you want something that was designed for prolonged full auto and that has a decent magazine capacity. I’d be choosing between the VFC MP7 AEG and the ASG MP9.
  9. That's true, and I shouldn't be giving legally sketchy advice. What do you suggest for @sam beach WSW's need to be able to clear jams by reverting to full auto, or cycle completion without the ability to select full-auto? Maybe a German-market FCU with cycle completion but without full-auto, like this Gate?
  10. Just trim a bit off the selector plate. No ugly irreversible external modifications, gun won't go into full auto, no problem. A better solution is a programmable FCU, especially because there will be times you want to be able to go into full-auto (e.g. to resolve a semi-auto lockup, which is even more common in guns with strong springs, like DMRs). If you don't already have at least a MOSFET, which you absolutely must, now is a good time to fit one that can be programmed to have semi-auto only in any fire selector position.
  11. Indeed. We aren't in dire need of more scrub woodland sites, we've got those coming out of our ears. Massive open fields? Passchendaele wasn't fun the first time around. Woodland doesn't play to airsoft's strengths, it plays to its weaknesses - unrealistically short range and an inability to punch through foliage. What we need is more urban/indoor sites. It doesn't have to be bleeding welts CQB, but engagement ranges topping out at 40-50m and averaging 20-30 would be ideal. Nobody's expecting a landlord to spend £500k reconstructing Longmoor; shipping containers aren't that expensive. Container yards are outdoors (obviating the massive expense of renting warehouses for plywood kill houses) and can be put up on the cheapest, crappiest woodland airsoft sites already use. Multistorey is as simple as stacking them on top of each other, you can cut windows and doors in them easily, you can easily bolt internal structures in, and they can be reconfigured and moved easily when the site or the landlord decides it's time for a change. There is a reason that real military training facilities (including in the UK) and a lot of paintball and airsoft sites abroad are built like this. Most importantly, putting up temporary structures like these don't require "change of use" planning permission. These can go up on land coded for grazing, which is usually a lot cheaper than hardstandings (although those would be much better). I find it baffling that we have so few of these, and they're so small, when they're downright common in the US. I count only 35 containers in the site below, they haven't even put stairs and railings up to use the roofs and and it's still far bigger than the average airsoft site needs to be. It's especially useful in the South because they have a far smaller footprint for the same number of distinct spaces than a few barrels and pallets nailed together across a big flat area. Something half the size of a football pitch (when I'd guess the average woodland site is ten or twenty times that) would be perfectly acceptable if it had two storeys of containers on it. Dirty Dog Airsoft - never been, no idea what it's like - has a pretty minimal yard (looks to be 23 absolutely wrecked containers), and that looks far more interesting than the muddy field it was previously. 10 seconds online - not hunting for the cheapest, most damaged, crappiest containers which would still be more than adequate for sitting in a muddy field on jacks - puts a 40' container at £1,500, which is £3.75/ft2 (half that if you use the roof too) for something you own in perpetuity. For reference, for a warehouse in King's Langley (the same area as Red1's The School) you'll be paying ~£13.00/ft2 per annum for something that you can't take with you when you leave. I'd really like to see someone take the £50k it costs to rent a 4,000ft2 warehouse for a year in the South and instead rent a field half the size of a football pitch and put up 30 absolutely rock-bottom containers for a total of 32,800ft2 of one- and two-storey containers with internal rooms, windows, doors, roofs, alleys, courtyards...
  12. AEG: ASG CZ Scorpion EVO3A1. Hands down the best AEG SMG on the market at the moment - much less expensive (at least in the UK) than the VFC MP7, which is the only real like-for-like competitor when you bear in mind the ASG's factory FCU with stop-on-empty, 3rd burst, and bolt lock/release. The MP7 is entirely proprietary whereas the EVO3A1 uses fairly common parts where possible and has excellent factory support. I have one and it's the most fuss-free gun I've ever owned. They used to be sub-£300 but Brexit makes them £340ish, though I wouldn't hesitate to buy lightly used. These come up for sale pretty regularly, and it's a good way to get a package deal with a combat load of magazines. GBB: ASG B&T MP9. Significantly less expensive than MP7s, excellent aftermarket support (though expect to pay handsomely for a full suite of Wii-Tech upgrades) and good all-weather performance. I would actively be looking to buy a used example with the Wii-Tech upgrades already done as GBBRs depreciate like a front-engined Ferrari. These also come up for sale pretty regularly.
  13. You should expose (and be able to see) the end of the handguards. It might drop free, or you might need someone to help you. As usual with Larry Potterfield's videos, an egregiously specialised tool is being used for a simple task. The video does allow you to see the handguard being released by the delta ring, though.
  14. M16 handguards come off the same way as regular ones - pull back the delta ring until the handguard pops out, then you can pull the handguard backwards out of the handguard cap (which is just behind the gas block). I don’t have experience with that specific G&P but I all-but guarantee they haven’t changed it just for one gun. The delta ring spring is very stiff because you want the handguards to stay exactly where they are when shooting. It’s also harder to defeat that spring on the early M16s because they have the straight delta ring; the A2 and onwards use a tapered one to help you get a better grip on it. If you’re struggling, put the butt of the gun on the floor and use both hands to push down on the delta ring.
  15. The manual shows that the flash hider doesn't screw on to the end of the outer barrel extension - it's just slipped over and retained by a grub screw, which is why you can just spin it. You need to unscrew the thread protector (the knurled bit), which is a separate part to the flash hider, to reveal the grub screw. Back the screw out and the flash hider should just pull off.
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