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Alimcd

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About Alimcd

  • Rank
    AF-UK Starter

Profile Information

  • Guns
    M14, TK74u, M4 CQB, L85A2, P99, Makarov, SSP1, M11
  • Sites
    Finmere
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oxfordshire

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  1. Not sure if I should be the one to give you the advice, given that mines got a bit of a hop issue at the moment, but here’s a quick parts list to start. Obviously, to get to 450fps you’re going to need a stiffer spring, an ASG M125 is a good start. Chuck in a bearing piston head and bearing spring guide and you should be doing pretty much bang on 450, assuming you get decent compression. The key to range is the weight/velocity of the BB. Heavy BB’s need more pressure from the hop to lift so you may need to change out the nub/bucking. I’ve found the omega nub/macaron combo to work brilliantly in most of my guns but I’ll admit that I’m having issues with a Maple leaf 70* in my M14 build but I’m hoping a softer rubber (60*) will sort out my issue. Stock gears and motor should be fine on a M125 although you will have to change out the plastic TM bushings for some 6mm metal ones. It’s likely you’ll need to reshim the gears once you’ve changed the bushings. I’d be inclined to wire in a Gate Nanohard. It’s an easy job given the trigger contacts are outside of the box. You’ll need to make a short spade to deans cable to go from the motor to the mosfet. Remove the entire plastic selector arm that goes around the gearbox and you’ve got a gearbox that’s locked to semi auto. Stick a decent 7.4V Battery in the stock and you’re golden.
  2. Hi Adolf, When I sorted out the mags on Monday I ran an entire mag’s worth through the chrono and consistency was very tight. I think I’ve got a habit of being slightly eager when it comes to grease and lube so it could be that the changes to the gearbox have been shooting airseal lube down the barrel! Do you have a recommendation on cleaning out the barrel, I had been using small, alcohol sterile wipes but saw Negative Airsoft’s video on how alcohol could potentially dry out and damage the rubber. I’m leaning towards the softer rubber. When I last skirmished pre-lockdown it was a crisp 5-10 degrees in the morning and it was going between zero hop applied to perfect to too much in between shots without any adjustment.
  3. Good morning, I came for the free advice but I'm staying for the banter. Now that one build is pretty much problem free, it's time to sort out another slight niggle. Just before lockdown started I thought that I had put the finishing touches to an M14 DMR build. I think it's a thing of beauty, real wood stock, huge Hawke Optic and a nice paracord sling. Internally, its running nicely and smoothly at bang on 440fps (I removed the selector plate entirely, so the cut off lever always engages. Easy M14 Semi lock). Consistency is incredibly good and at this point, on my bench, I thought it was ready to skirmish... Out in the field, I had nothing but feeding issues and inconsistent hop. Some drooping, some hopping and lots of odd fliers going off at all angles... The Barrel is a Modify 6.01 and it was very good at an earlier skirmish, so I don't think its the barrel. The feed issues were down to the Mid-caps having 3 different feed springs inside each mag which have now been replaced with longer stiffer springs and now feed perfectly. So we can assume that the weird trajectory is down to the Hop Up unit right? In the last batch of bit's I bought for this gun was a TM M14 Hop, Maple Leaf Macaron 70, Omega Nub. I've used the Maple leaf combo before and it all looks aligned properly, although I've not used such a hard rubber before. Do these need bedding in? It had only had about 30 rounds put through it when I was Chrono-ing it before it was skirmished pre-lockdown, could this be the source of the issues? Am I asking too much of a TM Hop to lift 0.36 or 0.4g BB's? It's my first attempt at a low volume of fire/higher effective range build and I'm sure that I'm missing something really obvious. Ali
  4. How far did you disassemble the trigger assembly? I had to disassemble the section in the upper receiver as the springs on the contacts had been obliterated by the previous owner. I haven’t taken apart the lower trigger assembly though. I remember the fire selector being a bit of a pain to reassemble as mine had the standard semi-auto issue! This was what I used to get the selector back together
  5. Very helpful disassembly/resassembly video all the way down to hop bucking from ICS: EDIT: Is it the ICS or the ARES you've got. The thread says ICS but your sig says ARES?
  6. I’ve been trying to find an appropriate AKs74u front set to repair a 14 year old Unicorn kit For ages and ended up just buying a new LCT LCK106 last night instead for parts. There will be left-overs so PM me if you are after a new LCT GB, Charging handle or receiver and folding stock. The Unicorn is now a bit like trigger’s mop. I don’t think there’ll be a single piece left from the original kit but it’s the same old workhorse I’ve had for 14 years...
  7. Apologies, that’s with 0.2g. He’s going to stick the original spring back in and take a second set of measurements. At the moment, the “upgrade” has made it a bit on the unusable side!
  8. It’s doing 596 with the upgrade kit fitted, it was c.440 before the kit. Happy compromise could be to use the bearing spring guide and new piston with the original spring.
  9. edit - information already stated above. Can't delete
  10. A friend of mine picked one up last year and has found they're a bit proprietary. The Hop is proprietary but the stock unit seems to work well, hop arm required modification to use a Maple Leaf nub. Barrel is bridged which is a bit of a pain. The Cylinder/piston is not a standard VSR-type but Taiwan gun sell a specific 707 upgrade kit that gives you a new spring guide, piston and spring. He's fit the kit in the past couple of days and is borrowing my chrono tonight so should be able to tell you what to expect. Issue wise - the bolt handle is fragile and susceptible to shearing off. We've had to drill out a hole in the shaft and handle and put a bolt in between. The gun uses bolts to hold the mechanism in place, overtightening them can deform the cylinder (This unit had a deformed cylinder out of the box). The "pull" is a bit scratchy, if you've got the patience a bit of polishing and some new lubricant worked wonders to the feel of the pull. Aside those minor points, it seems to be a solid rifle. He's getting plenty of kills and range seems to be on par with other rifles firing .36-.4's
  11. Hi Dave, I was expecting a bit of a lift in the ROF dropping down the spring stiffness. What I am more curious about is whether to expect a straight 33FPS (same brand spring M160 vs M150) decrease in output velocity or whether it would be less/more due to the DSG retracting the piston so little. Do you happen to know? Unfortunately I need to wait until monday again until I can sneak into the shop to fiddle. At least in the meantime the ejection port cover, silver charging handle-handle and silver body pins will have arrive to add to the eye-sore-ness
  12. Had a few thoughts overnight, It's pretty much bang on 350 with the M160. Hop is still set for .25's so it's likely a bit hot. I don't know when I last changed the batteries in my chrono (it seems to read lower when they're on the way out) so I'm going to change out the spring for a M150. I'd rather err on the side of caution and what benefit is a few FPS on a ROF build anyway??!. What I'm curious about if what difference the spring change will make, do we work on the assumption that it's actually going to be a reduction of 33fps or does the lower spring tension of a 9 tooth piston mean that the change is no longer directly proportional?
  13. I’m sure it’s not a lot of people’s cup of tea visually. It’s a bit of a dickhead gun. It has come out better than I planned, the trigger response is instant and burst mode is epic. I won’t be running the auto function during a game, 3-5rd burst is plenty and 40rps is too high not to risk hurting someone. For a bit less of a DSG-with-a-drummag vibe, I tend to rock either the L85A2 or a classic, no frills real wood M14 with a nice Hawke optic. Cant wait to get it out onto the field!
  14. It’s amazing how little you can get done during lockdown when you’re about 13 miles away from your workbench! This has taken 3 sneaky Monday morning UPS-drop off runs to finish but it was worth every excuse I had to tell my wife! just waiting on a new ejection port cover from PowAir and she’s done! Internally, it’s now Sporting a retro arms split V2, 16:1/SHS DSG with a M160 spring giving about 340 (+-5) at c.40rps. Drum mag feeds like a champ and the new externals scream “wannabe youtuber who claims everyone is a cheater” The C-More sights are great BTW and I think it’s a nice break from the sea of Eotechs and Aimpoints seen on every other pew. cheers again to Sitting Duck for the advice!
  15. For anyone interested in an update, Sitting Duck's advice sorted the pre-engagement issue and the formula for calculating ROF has been pretty spot on. 6 weeks of not being able to do much has led to an acute case of madness and poor financial restraint. I won't tell you what's new in the gearbox yet, I'll try to get a few pictures when I can get in and do the work but it should be a bit of naughtiness! The Specna body is currently with Mark at FMJUK for a bout of Cerakoting as the Specna finish was crap. It's coming back with a Graphite Black and Satin Aluminium paint job so purists, avert thine eyes. Last few parts needed for the build arrived at my workplace today so as soon as I can get in to start putting it all together, I'll get some pictures up on here.
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