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Iceni

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Iceni last won the day on September 9 2018

Iceni had the most liked content!

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About Iceni

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    AF-UK Veteran

Profile Information

  • Guns
    LCT G3 olive, ASG AUG A3, APS AUG A1, G&G GR 300, Cyma AKM.
  • Loadouts
    DPM, Flecktarn 1990's.
  • Sites
    The Grange, Fireball.

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  1. The only other thing it would make then is a box mag.
  2. M4 style stock only fit the G3 with an adapter. There is still the issue of the length of the adapter. You add a few inches more onto the G3 because of the design, and a pre-made M4 kit might have tubes that are a little short. LCT bodies use a slightly different shape to the real steel G3. If you fit a real steel wood kit the real steel adapter needs to be swapped to the LCT one. You can modify the steel body to accept real steel back plates, but then the LCT ones don't fit correctly. Or you could buy the LCT that already has the adapter installed, So you know it fits, and know you can buy other LCT stocks in the future and swap between without any issues. The LCT LC-3AR AEG is the only model that comes with this adapter and stock pre-installed. I've not seen one for sale in the UK yet but HKTiger111 have them for sale. https://airsoft.tiger111hk.com/p37350/LCT-LC-3AR-AEG-Rifle-(Black)/product_info.html That model doesn't look as good as the standard G3 to me. And It's already a heavy gun in the standard format, so the addition of that RIS, and the Loss of the stock weight may cause the rifle to be very unwieldy. The other option is buying a Standard G3 and the adapter plate. You would still need to swap the end caps but the advantage there is the end cap will be a direct fit with no modification. There are still no guarantees the M4 kit will have long enough tubes for the Airstock, Or that it will look good when done. So You may end up having to search for airline extensions and fittings. And that depends on where the reg is placed. If it's on the bottle standard 10bar straight connectors will be fine, If it's on the gearbox you would need extended pipework. I don't know that system to comment. https://airsoft.tiger111hk.com/m310/LCT-airsoft/p37169/LCT-LC-3-series-AEG-AR-Stock-Tube-(Black)/product_info.html
  3. I always thought the E&C system was more than just a QC gearbox. Still, it's not a major operation to get the spring swapped, a bit of a poor show from patrol base tho.
  4. Enter and convert system doesn't need the gearbox out to change the spring. There are 2 E&C revisions. The first I believe uses a regular buffer tube that will need unscrewing with a long screwdriver down the buffer tube. If it's the V2 E&C then this video shows how to get to the spring. You remove the buffer tube and the QC spring guide should be looking at you.
  5. I think it's important that this is included. I regularly link to some of the more active retailers @ak2m4 been one of the main ones. Knowing they are allowed to interact and advise on the products they sell, Provided the OP isn't of there own making. Means Business as usual from my standpoint. It would make life on the forums very difficult if been able to link and seek advice like that was stopped.
  6. Covering my ass response! There are 2 values that can have a C rating. Battery discharge potential. Normally written as 2 values. 15/30, 20/40, 25/50 The second value is always double the first. This version of C represents the discharge ampage potential. And has nothing at all to do with charge potential. The values work to show the maximum ampage a battery is capable of. The first is the continuous ampage potential, The second is the burst ampage potential. There is some math behind it as well. 25/50 C 2200mAh. 25x2.2 = 55 amps contintiuous. 50x2.2 = 110 amps burst. The second use of C is for Charge potential but you have to be 100% sure you have this value listed or you will have some very serious issues. This version of C is a charge multiplier and there is some math for it. 25/50 C 2200mAh 3c In this instance, you have a standard 1c charge of 2.2 amps. You can also use the multiplier and it multiplies the base ampage. so 3c is 3x2.2 = 6.6 amps In addition, the multiplier is also a number you can use to divide the time to charge. So a 1c charge is 1 hour. 2c is 30 minutes, 3c is 20 minutes. You have to be certain you have the correct batteries. Charging at 6.6 amps on a battery only designed to take a 2.2 amp charge is very dangerous. DO NOT CONFUSE 1C/2C/3C WITH 1S/2S/3S!!!!! The S value is the number of 3.7v cells that make the battery. 1S = 3.7v 2S = 7.4v 3S = 11.1v 5c as a charge multiplier is a feature on those tunigy batteries. Personally, I wouldn't go that high unless I'd forgotten to charge my batteries on the morning of a shoot and desperately needed a full battery. There's a good chance the faster charge rate will shorten the life of the batteries, and you have to be 100% confident that what you are doing is safe. If in doubt let the charger run at the 1c rate for 1 hour and be safe.
  7. Awesome It'll be cooked in about 35-40 minutes. (the battery should be @ storage voltage). Just keep an eye on it.
  8. It might be because you have a slightly different variant of charger to mine. Just plug the tamiya cable in as well (remember to swap the terminals on the charger). Keep it in balance mode.
  9. Your in lipo charge mode. (this is the mode for the tamiya connection only) You want lipo balance mode page 19 of the manual.
  10. Have you got the charger in the correct battery mode? You want Li-po. Chances are you have selected Li-on. You should also have 2 Li-po settings, Regular and balance. You want the balance setting.
  11. Safe charge ampage is as simple as looking at the capacity. 1800mAh = 1.8 amps charge. 2200mAh = 2.2 amps charge. The charger will actually detect and set the correct charge rate in most instances. Your cells are 2000mAh @2.0amps it'll take 1 hour each to charge them. Since you are using the balance charging port: The charger will not see a single 7.4v battery. Instead, it will see 2x 3.4v batteries. (it will show on the screen as a 7.4v battery). It will charge each of those batteries independently to the correct levels. Meaning the charge was balanced. Using the tamiya to charge doesn't do this. A fully charged battery has more than 7.4v. It's normally about 8.4v. The discharge curve of a lipo is very useful. You have a peak charge voltage of 8.4v (2x4.2v) that drops very quickly to a running voltage that is pretty stable 7.0-7.4v. There is then a sudden drop in voltage. Your gun will slow down very fast. This is when you pull and change the battery.
  12. Use the little white connectors. They fit into the right hand side of the charger. There is a long white slot full of pins, It'll only fit in one position. The small connector is also known as the balance charge lead. You don't need the tamiya plugged in at all to charge. As for the wires been the wrong way round, That is a feature of tamiya connectors in airsoft. Our tamiya connectors are wired backwards. Deans are the regular way round just to confuse you. If you want to use the tamiya cable simply switch the red and black at the charger. So red on the battery is the red port on the charger. Simples. As for the batteries read up on them. There is a lot of information about lipo's and you must follow the rules. Do not discharge them too low. Once the gun starts to slow down swap the battery. Only charge them with a good charger like what you have, If the charger says no then don't try any tricks or hacks... The charger knows best. Do not pierce or damage the outsides of the battery. If you drop them put them aside in a safe non-flammable place for a few minutes and check to see if they get hot. If they do get hot, It's advisable to warn a marshal if on site, but do not leave them unattended. If the outside rips and you can see the metal inside, Dispose of the battery. Provided you treat them with respect then you won't have any issues. Use a plastic case to transport them, Take them out of your guns when not used, Store them discharged, you have a discharge/storage feature on the charger. If you run the storage mode it'll set the battery to the correct voltage to be stored. At this voltage, you can store the battery for a very long time without the battery decaying. Don't leave them in the car on a hot day. Basic stuff really, It's the same battery that you have in your phone, so treat them with the same respect you show your phone.
  13. A mosfet isolates the switch. Meaning it can operate on a very low current where no heat and no arcing can happen. This in turn means your only limiting factor to the switch lifespan should be the wear on the contacts. That is going to be a span of many years under normal conditions. The gate mosfets are good, I have a nanohard in one of my guns and it does far more than you would expect, Fuse, Active brake toggle, Variable lipo protection, Anti-bounce for microswitches. I'd say it was worth the extra over the ASR just because of the variable lipo protect feature. It'll mean you can ignore the battery and the fet will cut out well before you hit a dangerous level, If you loan your guns out to friends it'll mean you don't have to keep an eye on them to see if the battery is going flat. https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/gate-nanohard-3rd-gen-multifunction-aeg-controller For a basic Fet the Xcoretech XET304u and it's clones are my go-to fets. For about £7.50 you get contact protection on a durable proven design. The only problem is you have to do some wiring and soldering to get them in nice. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/mosfets/acemos
  14. Even Ni-Mh creates some arcing. But the real issue is microswitches themselves. They operate with a sprung bar and a contact point. The sprung bars fail after a set number of activations, and the contact point is designed to wear out. In industry microswitches are consumables. Designed to be quick to replace with minimal effort. Whilst airsoft deals with voltages that microswitches are typically happy with <24v airsoft also deals with currents that microswitches are not rated to carry. This carrying of current causes heat, Heat weakens the sprung bar, Switch fails sooner. You can get switches with higher ratings on them. Trouble is that those switches are designed to switch relays where a single action is needed to latch or unlatch a circuit. We hold closed our microswitches for extended periods allowing heat to build in them.
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