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Iceni last won the day on May 17

Iceni had the most liked content!


About Iceni

  • Rank
    AF-UK Veteran

Profile Information

  • Guns
    LCT G3 olive, ASG AUG A3, APS AUG A1, G&G GR 300, Cyma AKM.
  • Loadouts
    DPM, Flecktarn 1990's.
  • Sites
    The Grange, Fireball.

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  1. Then you should have said that in the OP. Can't trouble shoot without the correct information been given. The OP gives the impression that you could plug a battery in and it would sit idle until the trigger was pulled and then it popped. Now you say you have a dead short at all times, and can't plug a battery in. That's a different set of problems. Now you may have a dead mosfet. I would however be tempted to pull the unit out of the gearbox and check you haven't shorted the trigger across the gearbox shells, by failing to add sufficient insulation on the install. You could also check for a short between the motor wires and the gearbox shells, It should be insulated and show no continuity. Without having it in my hand it's a Pandora's box of speculation because we have to assume it's something you did that caused the fault. Mofsets can and do die, but more often than not they get killed rather than fail through use.
  2. Iceni


    I went the other way and got X-plane 11. With the high res Europe mesh pack installed it's superb. I've been flying ultralights and small planes in and about the places I've lived. Whilst it doesn't render everything perfectly, it does do a very good job of road layouts. Meaning it's more than possible to navigate by road.
  3. The gate titan V2 has it's own inbuilt "smart fuse". It doesn't need a secondary in line one. So bridge the inline fuse and try again. It's probably not the titan as it's working right up to pulling the trigger, An open mosfet would shoot or short instantly as soon as you plugged in the battery. It might be a burnt out motor, Or failed motor cap. I've had both do some pretty strange things. And because you describe the problems as happening on a single trigger pull the motor would be a prime candidate for failure. If you have a spare motor try that, Or see if you can borrow one. Without knowing exactly what terminals you tested, and under what conditions (power on/power off). It's impossible to know what you were testing. A diode test isn't a Fet test. Diodes work in one way but can do several jobs and functions depending on how they get constructed, The test lets you know the polarity of the diode, and that it blocks current in one direction. It doesn't test other functions like a zener diodes breakdown voltage. Fets on the other hand are similar but come in always open, always closed varieties depending on the power state and circuit design, They function more like a switch or relay and can not be tested without connection to all 3 legs, or in a powered state. You can test for voltage drop across a fet with a standard 2 prong multimeter, but not if it's already mounted as the circuit may drain the fet before you get chance to move terminals.
  4. I made my own lapping kit. Water based diamond pastes. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7x-THK-Diamond-PLUS-5g-WATER-BASE-polishing-lapping-paste-pastes-compound-0-25-5/153995265671?hash=item23dad54687:g:DMAAAOSw32lYwArD And then I use a microfibre swab on an unjamming rod, and spin it through the barrel with a drill. You'll want 2 swabs per grit level. Use one to apply and polish, then the second with water to clean the barrel. You will want an old barrel to practice with first, and used swabs can be used multiple times so keep every grit and it's 2 swabs separate from each other. Grits are worked out in microns, bigger numbers are bigger abrasives. So a 5 micron is more coarse then a 1 micron. Pick a middle grit to start with 2-3 do a few passes of the barrel with the drill, then clean it up. If there are big scores that haven't been removed think about moving to a higher grit, or doing multiple 3 micron grit passes. Once it looks good at that stage then clean it all again and start to go lower. 2 - 1- 0.5 - 0.25. There will be some haze to the finish that should be clearing up with each lowering of the grit, and by the time you get to 0.5 micron it should be looking polished - Free or scores, and be giving a straight reflection. If the reflection isn't straight then you need to inspect the barrel and make sure it's not warped and that you haven't done damage at a higher grit by keeping it spinning on one spot too long. When complete the swabs will be black and horrible, but they will still work on future barrels. The finish will only be as good as you. If you are not consistent with the drill and pull speed you will have issues, Likewise the swabs need to be made right so they give a nice fit that has good contact but isn't tight.
  5. I'd probably try get an M100 into it. How hard that is will depend on the gearbox variant. If you have the QC spring system then it'll take a few minutes. If you have a regular V3 gearbox then you will have to disassemble it. AK2M4 should have springs in stock at a decent price.
  6. It's pretty easy to do the install of the Mosfet if you are decent with a soldering iron. You will need a soldering iron, solder, heatshrink, and extra wire. I have an image somewhere that shows where to cut. Unfortunately it's on one of my redundant old hard drives so I may have to make another one. Just give me a day or two and I'll have the information you need The red X's are where you cut. It's then soldered in like this for the XET304u note your just tagging the mosfet trigger wires into the old trigger circuit, and running a direct connection through the fet to the battery.
  7. If you are feeling adventurous then you could test the grease I've been using for years. It's a basic Ptfe/silicon grease, Available in bulk if you wanted. And it's food safe. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SYNTHETIC-SILICONE-GREASE-WITH-TEFLON-50g-TIN-2HT-PLASTIC-SAFE-LOW-FRICTION/391399159157?hash=item5b21353575:g:fDUAAOSw6fBclQTY
  8. Some things I would add to any shopping list if the gun has been sat a while. Hop rubber - £10 M90 - M100 main spring - £5 Piston O-ring. - £2 AK2M4 has you covered here. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hop-up-buckings-nubs/laylax-prometheus-bucking-purple https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/springs/zci-aeg-spring-m90 https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/pistons-heads/piston-head-o-ring-viton-19mm It just means you have the best chance of getting the gun up to spec whilst it's in bits. for the sake of spending under £20 it's well worth the extra spent.
  9. The LCT pistol grip might fit, At £15 it's worth a gamble since it's a UK shop selling it. https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/lct-lc008-lc-3-pistol-grip-black As for the motor. You can pretty much pick what you want within reason. If you want a cheap all round one then the AK2M4 16 or 22tpa would be reasonable. 16 been faster but if you are running 11.1v lipo's I'd probably go 22tpa. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/motors-parts/gp-16tpa-motor-long https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/motors-parts/gp-22tpa-motor-long The motor is also a D type pinion, So you could just pick up the pinion gear. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/motors-parts/shs-ra-motor-pinion-gear-d-shaped-mim You will have to inspect the rest of the gears to make sure there is no damage.
  10. If It's the TM then they recommend the Mini S NiMh battery. Double check those dimensions as I think those batteries are bigger than the dimensions you have listed. It should be the same dimensions as one of these. https://www.componentshop.co.uk/8-4v-1600mah-2-3a-nimh-mini-battery-pack-3x2-1.html 111 x 34 x 18 mm If that is correct then you can use a big block lipo. https://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-1300mah-25c-continuous-discharge-lipo-battery-giant-power-mini.html 94 x 31 x 13 mm 7.4v 1300mAh 25/50C Or one of these monsters might fit as well. I know I can fit these in my Aug that also uses mini s sized batteries. https://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-2200mah-30c-continuous-discharge-airsoft-lipo-battery.html 103.6 x 34 x 15.5mm 2200mAh 30/60C 66A continuous discharge, 132A burst.
  11. Actually capacity is an issue depending on how you plan to use the battery. Small capacity batteries can only supply low amperage, and you will cap the output fairly quickly if you are planning on using a small battery to say power a tuned AEG. Plugging an AEG into a battery that can not supply enough amps will cause the battery to overheat. I would not expect any lipo pack to have reliable thermal protection. An 18650 does in the form of a fuse, but a lipo pack is a different animal without the fused top cap. Capacity and discharge (C) work together to give you the amperage of the battery. Take a random battery (invented for demonstration). 7.4v 2S 500mAh 15/30C - 500mAh is 0.5Ah. - 0.5Ah x 15C = 7.5amps continuous discharge - 0.5Ah x 30C = 15amps burst discharge If you plugged that into a stock AEG pulling 10-15amps the chance of an overheating and potentially thermal runaway battery would be high. Dangerously so. A typical airsoft AEG battery looks more like this. 7.4v 2S 1300mAh 15/30C - 1300mAh is 1.3Ah. - 1.3Ah x 15C = 19.5 amps continuous - 1.3Ah x 30X = 39 amps burst. The continuous discharge of 19.5 is over the 15amp draw rate, meaning whilst it'll get hot, it should be safe from thermal runaway. If you are trying to make a performance AEG with uprated motors and ROF then be even more vigilant to amp draw. You simply can't make an M4 pistol that does 25rps, and run it on anaemic batteries, You'll be throwing a pile of burning plastic on the floor after a few bursts. There are ways around small battery spaces. Tell us what the AEG is, Show us all a picture ect. And people on here will have some form of safe solution that works.
  12. You've pushed the auto contacts in a little. On the gearbox you have 2 sets of contacts, the AK style ones inside the gearbox for semi, and the 2 contacts and plate on the inside of the trigger. It's the trigger ones that need some adjustment, You need to grab something thin and flat and just pull them away from the gearbox body towards the plate on the trigger a touch. It'll only be 1-2mm movement required. You have to move both pins as the pins are the contacts not the plate on the trigger (all the plate is doing is acting like a bridge). If when you rebuild you find that the gun is going straight to auto with no semi then you went too far. It's a pretty small margin of adjustment. You only need to adjust 1 pin towards the gearbox when this happens.
  13. If you have a spare shorter inner barrel then you can drop that in. It'll lower the FPS and you don't have to go messing with the gearbox. You can get the same effect by using a 6.08 stock barrel for a few games. I've been known to do this when I've had a gun in bits the night before a skirmish and just CBA to open it again. Once the spring has had a few games it'll bed in at a lower FPS anyway and you can go back to the original longer/tightbore barrel.
  14. How are you finding it? You went all quiet after buying it!
  15. Iceni

    Best Ak

    E&L or LCT. All Steel Externals. And the gearboxes are decent. Don't expect TM high cycle performance, but they will run and run without needing a lot doing to them, and are near impossible to break. https://www.fire-support.co.uk/category/lct-airsoft-aegs--kits/ https://gunfire.com/en/producers/e-l-1383559869.html models like the ELAK701. https://gunfire.com/en/products/elak701-tactical-mod-a-gen-2-assault-rifle-replica-1152209806.html and the LCT TX-MIG. https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/lct-tx-mig-airsoft-gun-aeg
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