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Iceni last won the day on September 9

Iceni had the most liked content!


About Iceni

  • Rank
    AF-UK Regular

Profile Information

  • Guns
    LCT G3 olive, ASG AUG A3, APS AUG A1, G&G GR 300, Cyma AKM.
  • Loadouts
    DPM, Flecktarn 1990's.
  • Sites
    The Grange, Fireball.

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2,256 profile views
  1. Iceni

    7.4 LIPO in place of 8.4 NiMH

    It's knowing where to cut the wire. Aug's are different to a regular v3 gearbox because of the 2 sets of contacts. Give me 20 minutes and I'll edit this with the pictures of where to cut and what to do. The first part is the cuts. You need to cut the wire on the red X's. You can make the green tails longer if you want, but do not cut above the solder points. Sometimes the wires both come out looking up so make sure you cut the wires that go to the motor and battery.... NOT the ones that go to the front contacts. This gives you 2 tails on the green area that are going to be for the trigger wires. And the 2 in blue become the motor wires (these have polarity +/-) don't mix them up. If you are doing a solder in type like the Xcoretech xet304u or the AK2M4 one then the loom is the same, but you have to solder both sides of the fet rather than just using spade connectors. It's still the same number of wires cut in exactly the same place. Polarity on the trigger doesn't matter, But polarity on both the motor and the battery side is very important to get right. And you have to look on the PCB of the Fet to know the way round they go... My diagram might not be correct to the fet you pick up so pay attention. Provided those 2 initial cuts are in the right spot you can't go wrong with the AUG rewire. It's a very easy gearbox to do a fet on. If you want it easier to work on the gearbox in the future then you also want to add some connectors on the circuits. Doing this will allow you to remove the motor and the mosfet so it's not in the way when you have to replace internal parts.
  2. Iceni

    7.4 LIPO in place of 8.4 NiMH

    This: But with some modification due to the space constraints of the AUG platform. You can fit a basic mosfet without a problem behind the gearbox wall. The biggest I've been able to get to fit was a gate nanohard, but that took some serious messing about to get to fit well. You can't really put a fet on the battery side of the gearbox wall, because that eats directly into the space for the battery and there isn't a lot to begin with. The other disadvantage of using a programmable fet is you might not be able to see the LED's that tell you what you are adjusting when in program mode. Again with the nano hard I was able to make it so I can see the glow of this LED but it's a pain to adjust. A basic non programmable fet put in the correct spot will fit in the void at the back top edge of the motor. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/mosfets/acemos The advantage the aug has over a lot of platforms is you can add a mosfet without needing to open the gearbox. Provided you can solder everything you need to get to is exposed and easy to work on. Personally I solder my motors and use a deans connector to the mosfet, It saves a little space at the bottom of the case and stops the connectors/wires holding the gearbox up. I just use jumper style (1mm) connectors for the trigger wires. You don't need to worry about adding a wire break between the fet and battery because the loom is so short and you can generally remove the full loom with the gearbox, but you will want the break to the motor and contacts, It helps a lot when you want to remove the motor and work on the gearbox without having wires and a motor getting in the way. Amp wise that battery should be decent enough 36amp continuous 72amp burst. More than enough for that gun. You could go with a slightly higher mAh rating there are plenty of 2200mAh batteries with 30/60 and 35/70 discharge ratings in the same form factor. It's not something I would worry about.
  3. Iceni

    To upgrade or just buy a new gun?

    You have to be realistic with upgrades. If you can do the work yourself then it opens up a whole world of cheap upgrades that suit a budget gun. If you can't upgrade yourself then they become a money sink. For someone who is gearbox savy and can do the work themselves. Prices from AK2M4. Mosfet basic xcoretech xet304u style - the nuprol uses a microswitch and a basic fet will keep it working for longer. £7.50 + some wire. Sort out the airseal. Add an oring airseal nozzle (£4.50) Grease and shim the gearbox. New piston o-ring £0.25 Main spring upgrade £5. Total spend on gearbox £17.25. Getting a tech to do the above is going to run you at about 2 hours labour + parts + the basic fee. Well over £50 IMO. For the barrel and hop. ZCI plastic rotary hop unit £8.50 Laylax prometheus purple bucking and nub £10 ZCI 6.02 inner barrel £20 Total spend £38.50. You should be able to build and install all of these parts yourself. I'd build it as a complete inner barrel kit and leave the original intact. Getting a tech involved will run you almost to the £100 mark. Doing it yourself £55. So there is a big difference in the upgrades a savy person can do compared to one that needs the tech. In terms of added value there actually is a little. So a £130 gun second hand without upgrades in good condition will trade at about £75-80, With the upgrades done asking £100-110 would be reasonable provided it shoots well and looks clean. The question you have to ask yourself is if you can't do the work yourself where do you draw the line. You could price it for a fast sale £60-70, Save the £100 and have £170 that can be added to to move into the midrange gun section... It's not that much more to add to get into all steel AK territory with LCT or into some of the nicer G&G and specna arms models. https://gunfire.com/en/products/sa-b15-keymod-14-carbine-replica-1152205883.html Or you keep it as a working spare, get a new gun, and loan out the nuprol to friends so they get a cheap introduction to airsoft, doing no upgrades at all to it. I linked to a specna arms on gunfire for a reason. Spend €225 and you get free postage. They will install a basic mosfet for free when you buy a gun and mosfet together, they will downgrade to 350fps for free. So you don't have the initial tech costs to get the gun right from the off, It'll just take a little longer to be delivered.
  4. There is no membership. You get your Ukara by attending 3 games over at least 2 months. Then you need to do 1 game a year to keep it rolling. Those games have to be at the same site. Provided you are playing and keep track of the Ukara start date, You just have to prompt the site to renew it. They get out a form to fill in and that's it done. Keeping a log of played dates and receipts can also help. This is the facebook group for the gunman Midlands sites, The grange is part of the group. The pictures will tell you a lot about what the players and site is like. Also ask them questions, they use the page and update it weekly with pictures of the games and upcoming events. https://www.facebook.com/Gunman-Airsoft-Midlands-190426617674907/
  5. It would depend on how much you use full auto. I tend to double tap shots but rarely full auto. So a single 170rns midcap might last me a couple of games. To put this into context I took my g3 out last shoot and used less than 250bb's all day, All shots were aimed and were attempting to be kill shots. When I do go full auto I can cycle all my mags in record time. Normally I have around 1500bb's in mid caps at the start of a game, And sometimes I can burn through all of those and have to reload. Generally when that is happening I'm not shooting for a kill, I'm hitting a barricade or wall to keep heads down whilst the rest of the team is advancing, because one of the sites I play at has a spawn system when you cannot buddy spawn under fire (even if it's never going to hit you, but to negate a 10 second buddy spawn you need to burst about every 8 seconds). So it's not a question any of us can answer because we don't know how you play. Personally I love a midcap loadout. It doesn't rattle, and you don't have to do any winding. The disadvantage is you will have to cycle your mags more, and do less suppressive fire and more aimed kill shots.
  6. It's no problem, Personally I'd do a full day rather than half a day. Even if you don't play for the full day or take an extended lunch break. There's normally a few regulars to chat to in the safe zone and Steph manning the drinks chiller! The day runs like this: Turn up early, Gates open at 8.30 am Go pay in the shop for the day, Have a good chat and make your way up to the safe zone. The Marshalls might take you up, or they may just point it out and let you wander up. Gear and fitting will be done when you get to the safe zone, just make yourself known to the marshalls up there and tell them your on a hire. 9-10am is chrono for the guys using there own guns, this is when all guns that are going to be used in the day have the BB speed measured to make sure it's safe. You don't need to chrono, but there will be a lot of people plinking in the game area at targets... Join them, Get chatting, Shoot your hire gun and get familiar with it. 10am is the briefing. Games start at 10:30am And run till about 12- 12:30. There may be a short break if the weather is hot to let people grab a drink. 1 hour break for lunch. Then it's game on again till 4.30 ish with normally a second break for drinks. The full day gives you a lot more shooting than a half day. And the Marshalls will let you work at your own pace. If you hear calls of push forwards it's normally by the players. And you can ignore it. Spending a full day will also give you more time to explore the site. It's bigger than it looks on a map, and quite confusing when you start to go through the trees. Don't be put off by the under18's Shoots. There are some younger people that attend, but they know the rules so you play exactly the same. In fact they tend to do a lot of the running about and let the slower players hold objectives.
  7. The Grange is a good site. It's the one I use for my UKARA membership. The site is woodland with a few fence buildings. In summer it can be classed as dense woodland with engagement ranges significantly dropping. In winter the site opens up a little and the ranges increase with that. Camoflage works well at the site, but there is no shame in turning up in jeans and a jumper. The site isn't snobby at all in regards to gear. You must wear boots, they must have good grip. Waterproof is a bonus as some of the site can hold water. 2 tone guns are fine. The Marshall team is fantastic, They will make you feel welcome, and make sure you know what you are doing. Listen to them, and follow the few rules they have and you will have no problems. They will insist on banter, but frown on swearing and hit calling. Games are normally short 30-60minutes with teams rotating. You will get a lot of games in. They have a very fast re-spawn system and aim to keep you playing. It also means if you get a hit you take it and just come back into the game from the re-spawn point. Sitting out because you are dead will not happen at this site. The Marshalls will pick games depending on team sizes, and how knackered you all look The Hire guns are plastic Cyma AK's. Any issues just ask a marshall and they will look at it for you. Same with the batteries if you think yours is going flat just ask. Full face mask, overalls, spare magazine and BB's are provided. Extra BB's are about £10 for 3000. They have a shop with some basic parts, BB's and normally a few nice guns for sale. Eye pro is normally in stock as well. The safe zone is a no fire zone. Mag's out, Guns on safe. No testing the gun in the safe zone. If you shoot even without a mag in they will kick your ass and may even remove you from the site. If you want to test shoot go through into the game area through the safe zone. Once in the game area you can shoot to your hearts content, just make the gun safe before you come back inside. If there is no marshall on hand to check you are safe stick your head in the door and call one of them. Eye pro must be worn at all times in the game area, even if you just stick your head out to look. When you come back into the safe zone after play a Marshall will inspect your gun, they will want to see the mag out, and the gun discharged in a safe location, then put on safe. Don't be alarmed by this everyone does it, Once the gun is safe it's best to put it down and not play with it until the next game. Coffee and tea is free all day. A small lunch is provided if you are playing all day, for free. There is a selection of snacks (not free), and cold drinks (not free) Pyro and BB's can be bought in the safe zone. Toilets and showers on site. One of the regulars has mobility problems as well. Tell the marshalls they will tell you the best routes to take to keep a sure footing. Personally I never run I'm too lazy, and I always find myself in the action without a problem.
  8. Never heard of any aug mags feeding badly. I don't have a TM HC, but my ASG A3 shoots at 25rps. I use: MAG 170rnd King arms 110rnd ASG high cap JG high cap APS high cap TM high cap Battleaxe 110rnd Personally I love the MAG 170rnd mags. If you can find them those are the mags to get. They have the best balance between capacity and not needing to be wound on. If you want cheap go with king arms or battle axe 110rnd. They can be had for very cheap if you search about a bit. None of my mags have any feed issues in either of my augs. I do oil my mags tho, Some don't.
  9. There is no such thing as a medium/long range gun. All AEG's should be capable of flinging a BB to the maximum range provided the fps is right. Barrel length and cylinder volume is irrelevant. You have 1.13 joules of energy regardless, So all bb's that exit the barrel have the same energy and the same distance potential. @Rogerborg is absolutely correct when he says the raider can perform. Because any gun can. If you want a new gun cool, But personally I'd tweak the existing one first. The trick is consistency, and accuracy. Neither are variables that can be pinned on one component, rather they come with a combination of the gun as a whole. To get consistency, you need a gearbox without leaks, and a barrel that is correct for the cylinder volume. The hop unit, bucking and airseal nozzle also need to be as good a match as possible. To get accuracy you need a well finished, straight barrel, that is running a consistent hop unit with a decent bucking. Barrel length - irrelevant, Cnc hop units - irrelevant. With that in mind any aeg can be made to meet your criteria. The truth of the matter is to get those things that are important you have to build it yourself. There is no out of the box perfect solution. A bog standard JG with a little spent on it can out perform guns that cost far far more, and there is nothing more satisfying. For any M4 platform - Upgrade the hop unit to a rotary style, Put in a half decent inner barrel like a zci 6.02. Stick in a decent bucking maple leaf, laylax ect. Then sort the airseal nozzle, and gearbox airseals (piston head, cylinder head). Total spent less than £50. Do it right and you will have a gun that hits maximum range and does it reliably on target. Rate of fire is as easy as a motor change. A 35K rpm motor on a good 7.4v lipo will produce 25ish rps. Anything more than that you have to start messing with the gearbox. Picking up a specific brand gun, or expecting one out of the box solution to be better than another is like splitting hairs. You might get a great gun, or you might get one that has one minor fault not picked up on in QC that means it can't perform. Either way if you are buying a gun solely for how it performs out of the box, then you will never get what you want without spending silly money. Personally you couldn't give me a gun with an ETU. The wildhog and the Ares both have trigger systems that are prone to failure. And when they fail they cost a small fortune to replace (because no one is going to repair an ETU). Basic contacts in comparison will take any battery without complaint, and with a protection mosfet they should last for many many years. If you can't tech, then learn to do it. For £45 you can buy a complete gearbox from AK2M4. Use it like a practice tool. Shim it, strip it, rewire it, Correct the airseals. Then once you are confident make the Raider into a monster. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/gearboxes-complete/ec-complete-gearbox-qd-v2-rear Rotary hop unit https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hopups-rubbers/zci-prowin-style-hopup-chamber-plastic-m4 Good bucking. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hopups-rubbers/maple-leaf-macaron-50-aeg Nub for bucking. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hopups-rubbers/maple-leaf-nub ZCI inner barrels. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/inner-barrels Air nozzle. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/air-nozzles/ra-m4-aluminium-nozzle
  10. Iceni

    G3 Scope advice.

    I've got the same gun. I only use glasses or goggles. So I have no idea how well the mask would work with the scopes i have. Normally I run the Hensoldt model 1, I got it for a good price but normally there a hell of a lot of expensive (£450+). It's the correct sight for the gun. Eye relief is correct for the gun dimensions so you have to be right up to the scope, and it is a raised sight using the stanag claw mount. The other sight I use a fair bit is the Enfield 1.5-4x30 using a rail adapter. There are cheaper alternatives that have the same spec. Enfield as a brand is part of Armex who do most off the Umarex gear. Have a look a visionking as well as they offer the same spec. https://www.solware.co.uk/enfield-15430-mil-dot-scope https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tactical-1-5-4X30-Rifle-Scope-RGB-Tri-Illuminated-Mil-dot-Reticle-PEPR-Mount/272990142338?hash=item3f8f7aff82:g:Y2cAAOSwu29ak6~5 I know my Enfield is decent. Good eye relief, very clear. You can pull the eye quite a distance back and it works perfectly. It just lacks a front element coating so you can see the dot from the business end. I had the option to test mine in a gun shop, Mil dot is precise, 3 colours, and the lines are perfect colour overlays of the non illuminated parts. Other walthers branded umarex scopes have also been good for me, I have a ps22 and a ps55 both are very good value clear optics. The china part one might be a second, or it might have cheaper glass inside, or it might use a cheaper mildot system, there is no way to know until you hold and use it. So If you get one it is a gamble! With a rail adapter you can use any scope you want. Just get higher risers rings like you would for any rifle. It's not something you should worry about. I'd get a rail adapter then take the LCT to a gun shop and test various scopes till you find one you like. If you are adamant you want to use a stanag claw mount then look for one with the 22mm rail upper. Leapers/UTG make a clone of the H&K mount for about £80. It may need modification to fit the LCT. On the original there is a removable rubber pad on the back of the claw, It needs to be removed for the claw to work on the LCT. Some of the UTG/leapers mounts have that rubber pad cast into the mount. If this is the case you will have to file it off for it to fit. https://www.amazon.co.uk/UTG-STANAG-Steel-Claw-Mount/dp/B002GNYCLM
  11. Iceni

    Where to get good LIPO chargers

    Component shop if you need it asap. They do next day for under £10. https://www.componentshop.co.uk/ They have a Turnigy equivalent of the b6. 50W 5amp charge, with a power supply. https://www.componentshop.co.uk/accucel-6-digital-charger-with-5a-power-supply.html You should be balance charging using the little white connection block on the lipo. The connector you use for the gun can be variable, Deans, Tamiya, mini tamiya. I don't know what your batteries and guns run on. If you want to use the charger to charge Nimh then you will need one of these https://www.componentshop.co.uk/airsoft-battery-charging-harness.html Read up on charging. It's' easy enough but there are rules. You must understand the amps a battery can be charged at. You must understand how to read a battery, and set a charger. Every battery is different, So a charger is not a plug and play solution. You still have to set it for each battery, for both voltage, and charge current (ampage). And you will be expected to know how many cells, what the maximum charge current is, and how to program that into the box. Charge in a fire proof location. If a charger says no to charging don't try to force it. If your batteries have damage or are swollen don't charge them.
  12. Iceni

    Aug Owners?

    It's an APS AUG (asg branded). With that in mind the first thing I would do to it is change the piston head. APS have a really poor design with an injection point on the sealing edge, It means they have a habit of either eating o-rings or sealing badly. I'd also swap the airseal nozzle to an o-ring variant of the same length. Measure the one you have and buy from a seller that gives you the same measurement as yours or longer. Some AUG nozzles are too short to seal correctly. If you want to do this on the cheap go with the element silent head set for v3. It'll sort the AOE, and remove some of the piston slap. Don't be tempted by an all metal silent head set if you want it quiet. The metal ones have a pop sound that is just as bad as the slap of a flat one. The element POM one is lightweight and makes a much reduced sound. Also grease the mainspring to reduce the twang. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Element-Silent-Piston-Head-Cylinder/dp/B01N7RKBBH Second thing would be to sort the hop and barrel. APS use a 6.08 and it's not a very high quality. Get the ZCI 320mm if you are on a budget, and either a prometheus purple, or maple leaf 50deg with omega nub. APS use a strange bucking with a single hop mound rather than the standard bar type. So it's best to just replace the whole bucking rather than mess with the original. @ak2m4 are the best for price on these parts if he has stock. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/index.php?route=common/home Getting a CNC hop unit is pointless, I have one and the plastic units are just as capable. So provided yours doesn't have any issues it shouldn't need replacing. Just make sure you build it right. Aug hops are a pain to get right since you have to cut the bucking so the brass ring goes in front of the lock clip (gearbox side). If you try to build it with the brass ring behind the lock clip (barrel side) it will interfere with the 2 screws that allow the hop unit to move forwards and backwards. Do not shim the inner barrel, Stretch the hop spring slightly. With the airseal corrected, and the new barrel and rubber I would expect the FPS to pick up slightly, and the accuracy to improve. It should also be capable of lifting 0.3's without any problems. With all the rail space you can pick whatever rail mount sling system you want. There is plenty of choice. Both of mine use the original mounts, the A3 having a QC front mount and the A1 using a spinning ring. The Magpul style rail mount sling adapter might suit your gun.
  13. Iceni

    Aldi bench grinder/dremel combo ???

    I picked one of them up a few years ago. Don't bother. Motor has no power at all. Other than sharpening kitchen knives it's not good at grinding. The rotary tool is on a very noisy underpowerd grinder. If you want a bench grinder go to screwfix, They do a titan 200mm (8inch) for £40 with a 400w induction motor.
  14. Iceni

    Mosfet -What's the point?

    It's a bit of soldering. And some heat-shrinking. Nothing super technical. But and this is a big but! You will have to open the gearbox on a version 2. And you will have to put in 2 lightweight trigger wires, and the feeds to the motor. It's not hard but it can be frustrating. If you have any doubts at all. Pay some fecker to do it for you.
  15. Iceni

    Mosfet -What's the point?

    A mosfet does one important thing. It protects your trigger contacts. An AEG runs at 7.4 to 11.1 volts. And will draw 10-20amps of current. Enough to cause sparks. In a regular AEG circuit the trigger contacts act under full load. And because those are parts that move together there is a chance of sparks where they meet. Over time this sparking causes the trigger contacts to either go black or to burn out. A mosfet in contrast is a non moving switch. It uses a semiconductor to act as an open/closed gate. And in order to actuate the gate you take a low current feed from the battery to the contacts. So the contacts don't arc and burn out, and because the mosfet has very little resistance compared to mechanical switches you also gain a slight trigger response improvement. A basic mosfet like an xcoretech xet304u is more than enough for most aeg's. The second stage of mosfets is active braking. These stop the motor dead with back current. You fire, motor spins, then once the shot is complete the back current stops the motor. This is useful for high ROF guns where you might get 2 or more shots from a single trigger pull because the motor is running on. More advanced Mosfets do more. Contact protection Active brake Self regulating fuse Low battery cut out. 3rd burst ROF adjustment Variable burst mode Adjustable trigger The more expensive you go the more options those units have. All you really need a mosfet to do however is the basic contact protection... Everything else is just features. All of my guns run basic mosfets. 3 are on the Xcoretech xet304u style (there are numerous companies making this design check AK2M4). The others have home made units. And one has a Gate Nanohard because that gun needs the active braking and that fet lets you turn it on and off, and as an added bonus is has the low battery cut out. That low battery cut out is quite good if you are new to lipo's. It'll stop the gun shooting once the battery is done. The gate nanohard can be programmed to be on off and has settings for all common lipo voltages. Edit: Just a note about batteries. Lipo's are more prone to contact blackening and burning out because of how they deliver current. A lipo dumps current very quickly hence they give better trigger response as the motor doesn't have to wait for the current to creep up. Nimh batteries can't release the current so quickly, They have a slight ramp up time, rather than a dump. This means whilst they can still provide more than enough ampage they have a softer less sparky effect on the trigger contacts. At the cost of initial motor performance.