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Iceni last won the day on September 9 2018

Iceni had the most liked content!


About Iceni

  • Rank
    AF-UK Veteran

Profile Information

  • Guns
    LCT G3 olive, ASG AUG A3, APS AUG A1, G&G GR 300, Cyma AKM.
  • Loadouts
    DPM, Flecktarn 1990's.
  • Sites
    The Grange, Fireball.

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2,730 profile views
  1. I blame you @Druid799. If it wasn't for all the Questions about Aug's @L3wisD wouldn't need to be tagged in everything.
  2. Spot on review It's nice to see a review of the CA, It's not a common gun on the field. The other makes are far more common. I'm glad you are getting on with the platform, As you get more accustomed to it you will learn to love the thing. Whilst not a common gun compared to the M4 or AK variants you will see Aug''s every now and again. Oh and just to annoy him @L3wisD
  3. Iceni


    Depends on the gun. Buckings are an easy part to get wrong. There's a lot of branded crap out there that isn't fit for the job. And since we tend to play in cooler weather over here our buckings need to be soft. 50 degrees or less is perfect for the [email protected] Soft is better here. So the likes of the madbull buckings that are all 60 degree will just give you crap performance. If you lived in a warmer location (chances are your youtubers do) then they work perfectly fine. Same for inner barrels. The stock 6.08 china barrels might be mass produced and not the highest quality, but that coated barrel you are looking at is only as good as the coating. Give it 12 months and you'll be buying again. The people that mess with gear ratios and motors. 18:1 with a fast motor is more than enough for most players. Total outlay probably less than £50. To give 25rps. Doing the gears to a lower ratio, HT motor etc you can easily spend over £100. And still only be getting 25rps. So what have you gained other than a lighter wallet... The reason people do this, American FPS and springs, they have failed to realise our location (UK) has a different set of rules, and we can run the same RPS for far less investment. The real trick people miss is a basic inspection. They look at the big parts, Gears, bearings, Piston, Heads. But fail to look at the important seals, and fail to understand how those seals work. A chipped or worn O-ring is only good for the bin, but if you can't spot wear then you are never going to get the performance you want. O-rings are cheap. Running at pennies each, Not replacing them at every opportunity is probably the biggest mistake people make overall. If you open the gearbox and it's been shot, spend the pennies and have new seals. You can buy 100 for £5.
  4. Iceni

    The 'What have you just bought' Thread

    Just a touch hot then lol! 1.5J!! that's what almost 400fps on a 0.2. 309 is almost a perfect cut. Polarity been wrong on the wires is something I wasn't expecting! Was that on the motor or the connector? It just shows poor QC. It's basic things like this that china guns constantly get wrong and it's a shame because the product is essentially right. Body looks perfect. So it came with the 3 position selector rather than the standard one. That's good for you, would have been nice if CA had managed to get hold of them as well for @FreeFrag.UK But he spent twice as much and pretty much only got a mosfet and a fancy plate on the gearbox divide, so I still stand by the JG/APS budget guns been the correct path into the AUG. You still got the QC gearbox, Wasn't expecting that. Does it have bearings as well then?
  5. Nice, I take it the deans on the fet does split then? I wouldn't do the barrel change until you have a shooting test first. It might also be in your interest to pick up a second plastic hop unit. These run at about £6. And will mean you can leave the stock setup because from the looks CA got a lot of things right. So I would put money on the hop and barrel been decent as well. http://www.gearofwar.co.uk/?product=jg-aug-hop-unit With the spare unit, you can build the second barrel as a complete unit, so it'll just be the 2 screws to drop in the second assembly. It'll give you a lot more testing opportunities in the field. Pick the best setup for the gun, then use the second one to learn to flat hop with. Since you can drop in the barrels far easier than you can with most other platforms.
  6. Ohhh that's got some nice features over the JG/APS models I didn't know about. The Mosfet is a nice touch, but the really nice thing is the dividing plate between the gearbox and battery area. It's a 3/4 model with a QC spring gearbox. Remove the screw and washer and the spring guide should just push in and turn to release. Very very nice touch. Does the deans on the Fet split? The split might be hidden under the heat-shrink. If it does you might be able to plug a battery directly to the MOSFET. Just give it a pull. If I'm right it means the gun is wired as both deans and small Tamiya, and you get a free adapter for the kit bag. The wiring looks neat and if you picked up a deans extension you could drop the fet inside the dividing plate to gain a little more battery space. Overall it's a nice addition to the CA aug and adds some value to a new buyer who can't wire in a fet. (most stores can wire in a fet very cheap and with a basic fet costing about £10, it alone doesn't add any real value over the JG other than the time saved). Check what springs are singing. There are a couple that are known to sing that can be sorted with a little silicone grease packing. The trigger spring is normally the worst. You will hear it all the time, just pack it with some silicone grease. The 2 springs on the cocking handle can sing as well. Again pack them with a little grease just to kill the noise. There's one over the gearbox that returns the brass ejection baffles. It's not common for this one to sing. So I wouldn't bother looking at it. And the mainspring in the gearbox, There isn't a lot you can do about spring twang here. The non-QC gearboxes you have a couple of options with brass spring guides. The QC gearboxes however you are limited on the spring guides according to the gearbox shells. You can grease the spring but that will only do so much. The vertical grip spring is one I've not touched on my guns. I left it dry. You won't notice it over the sound of the gun. And I'd rather not have a greasy pole covering my gloves and gathering mud and grit. If it starts to bother you there is a conversion to add a 3 slot rail on the same mount so you can use a regular fixed vertical grip. Does it have the plastic or alloy hop unit? And does it have a 2 or 3 position safe bar? All you need now is the blonde wig and a dodgy German accent.
  7. Iceni

    Best Tappet for 13:1 ratio, hi torque, 11.1v

    Did you wear a tappet plate out in 1K rnds? I would suspect that you have more problems than just the tappet plate if you did. There is something out of place. Check the delayer chip and the offset pin. I would expect there to be a burr or score on one of the faces, Acting as an abrasive to the T-plate. As for the best tappet plate. There isn't one. Provided it fits and runs smoothly it's doing its job. Rocket airsoft, ZCI, SHS, ASG ultimate are all products I would use. The Rocket and ZCI from @ak2m4 are generally the best priced @£3.50 each. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/tappet-plates There are some weaker tappet plates out there, but they tend to be oem-parts. The common fault you see in this instance isn't wearing out, it's the plate bending rather than been pulled back.
  8. Iceni

    Gun picture thread

    lol, nope. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M16_rifle
  9. Iceni

    Gun picture thread

    Always thought A2 and A3 were physically identical. The only difference was burst fire on A2 to full auto on the A3. Because the A3 uses the A1 trigger setup. It's the A4 where the rail appears.
  10. Iceni

    Gun picture thread

    Nice M16A3, I keep looking at A1's but it's going to be some time before I get one. I have a few too many unused guns as it is!
  11. Iceni

    Battery Charger help

    Hobby king sells the B6. There are 2 common variants. The standard b6 you need a 12v power supply (some are supplied with it) The B6AC - It has it's own power regulator in it and runs off mains with a kettle flex. I would spend the extra £10 and have this one. It'll save you having to remember what power brick goes with what! Another thing you have to watch out for is the polarity of the Tamiya connectors. Airsoft wires those connectors backward compared to all other industries. So if you get a remote controlled car charger it will have leads that are wrong for airsoft. The charger will be the same, but the wires it comes with to connect Nimh batteries will be backward. (you can still use the leads, but the red will go in the black on the charger). This isn't an issue if you are using lipo and life batteries as you will be charging with the balance connector. And all industries use the same format for those connectors. Genuine b6 no power supply. £26.51 https://hobbyking.com/en_us/imax-b6-50w-5a-charger-discharger-1-6-cells-genuine.html Genuine B6AC £35.54 https://hobbyking.com/en_us/imax-b6ac-v2-professional-balance-charger-discharger-uk-plug.html Hobby king does some of the cheapest batteries you will find. The Turnigy range is well regarded, but it is pointless getting them until you know what gun you will be getting. Some guns are very limited on space. If you do get batteries make sure there listest as airsoft. The connectors will be backward if you get Tamiya or small Tamiya batteries for any other hobby. Deans are wired the same. This is an issue as the incorrect battery polarity will damage a gun. Hobbyking list all of the airsoft batteries in the Lifestyle/Airsoft tab at the top. Component Shop is also very good for batteries and chargers. I tend to use them for the quick delivery options when I desperately need something the following day. Nowhere near as cheap as hobbyking, but the website is much easier to navigate! They have batteries listed as Airsoft and then into voltage and chemistry types. It makes looking for a battery very easy! https://www.componentshop.co.uk/
  12. Iceni

    Aug Semi only safe bar modification.

    Just make sure when you mark number 1 you do it to the instructions. The mark is made when the bar is in the safe position and the trigger is pulled. That first mark acts as the reference for how deep the trigger is pulled. If you do it wrong you might end up overshooting the mark and gaining nothing.
  13. Iceni

    Do black broken airsoft guns need a licence?

    Bahahaha Scotland you say....You need a license for any air gun out there, don't you? Anything that exceeds 1joule needs a license. The Scottish government hasn't come after airsofters yet I don't think, but they have gone after air rifle users. 1J is 328fps @0.2g So by definition, most of my airsoft guns would require a license. http://www.scotland.police.uk/about-us/finance/service-fees-and-charges/firearms/air-weapon-licensing/legislation/ If they ever come after airsoft then they already have the statement written there to prosecute. If you didn't get advice, and it's hot, they have you. I'm very glad the rest of the UK doesn't have those laws. It's the one reason UKARA is vital. If the rest of the UK follows Scotland with Air gun licensing and then the police decide that all RIF's over 1J are illegal without a license it will royally fuck the status quo. We'll either all be criminals, or we will all be forced to downgrade and prove that our guns chrono under the J limit. Guns that creep or that can be modded quickly without tools will be outlawed as well.
  14. As requested by @FreeFrag.UK And because I know @Druid799 is probably interested as well here's a guide on a small modification to give a 3rd position to the AUG AEG safe bar. To allow single shot only in a new bar position. Note that some guns are shipped with this mod already done. And you can buy safe bars that are modified as well. Turns out I'd already written this in another older thread, so I'll just make it relevant, and add some updates. This is to give an aug a Semi only mode, without removing full auto. First, you want to remove the safe bar. It just pushes out to either side. Once out there is a small metal clip that you need to keep safe. Look on the back side of the bar, It should have a red dot on it. There should also be 2 grooves cut into this side of the bar. You need to cut the third groove between those existing slots. I find a small triangular file works best for this. You want to try to match the existing grooves for depth and width as well as keeping the cut straight. Once the cut is done you put the bar back into the gun (red dot to the shooter). Make sure you get the metal clip in position first before you put the bar in. And once it's back together you should find the safety now has 3 click positions. Split the upper from the lower if you haven't already done so. Now you need to measure the travel on the trigger to the semi position. Grab a marking tool. Pen scalpel it doesn't matter. Set the bar to the safe position and pull the trigger so it stops. Mark this position on the side of the trigger slide. (1) Pull the trigger until it reaches the detent where the semi-auto shot finishes mark it off (2). Pull the trigger all the way into the full auto position until it stops mark the position(3). Measure between 1 and 2. Transfer that to the safe bar using the front of it as the 1 position. Measurement (B) You now need to take a sideways measurement. Put the safe bar back into the gun with the sprung bar. Put the safe bar in the auto position. Pull the trigger all the way in. And push the safe bar over towards the safe setting till it stops moving. Use the side of the gun and mark this position on the safe bar. Release the trigger, and push the safe bar to the new middle position. Mark the safe bar on the same side. The distance between these marks is the amount of material you need to remove from the bar (A). Mark the cube that needs cutting and remove it down to the lower level of the bar. The cube of material that remains will act as a stop for the trigger, so do not accidentally cut it off! Working slowly with a scalpel is better than trying to go at it with a big knife, saw or dremel . This should give you a semi only position on an Aug, You may have to refine the cuts, but removing less and working up to the correct measurement is better than removing more.
  15. Iceni

    The 'What have you just bought' Thread

    You'll have to give me a couple of days to get pictures together but yeah no problem.