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Iceni last won the day on September 9 2018

Iceni had the most liked content!


About Iceni

  • Rank
    AF-UK Veteran

Profile Information

  • Guns
    LCT G3 olive, ASG AUG A3, APS AUG A1, G&G GR 300, Cyma AKM.
  • Loadouts
    DPM, Flecktarn 1990's.
  • Sites
    The Grange, Fireball.

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  1. AUG. £80 https://gunfire.com/en/products/sw-020c-carbine-replica-olive-drab-1152219196.html And a tin of gloss white spray paint.
  2. This was a real one. We didn't sand the lips. I'll pass on the information about that tho. The bucking was a madbull, so chances are it was the lips. It wasn't a critical build we were just playing with the 416, it hasn't been used in game for several years, my shooting partner always goes for the same 3 guns. King arms SLR, G&G L85, or his AK. I can't actually remember the last time we even took the 416. He has more guns than sense. So provided the top 3 are running the rest are wall hangers to him. I'm no better, it's taken me several years to get the motivation to sort my own M4 out, And I still doubt I'll be dropping it in a bag to game with.
  3. ZCI barrels are superb for the price. Far better than the aluminium coated barrels like the madbulls. Not as good as the likes of PDI. For the money, the ZCI is an easy recommendation. There is also the lambda 03. It's a little more than the ZCI. It does, however, come lapped internally. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/inner-barrels ML buckings are good. I'm having a Prometheus purple phase ATM. Also a very good bucking. It's cheaper as it comes with a standard nub. It's also closer to stock dimensions the ML buckings can sometimes have problems with smaller inner barrel windows. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hop-up-buckings-nubs As for where to buy. You are right looking at @ak2m4 His shop sells no-nonsense upgrades, Without the markup. Most of my guns have parts in from him. Be careful with hop unit upgrades. We had a gun just last week that flat out refused to shoot. Umarex/VFc 416 ,13:1 gears, HT motor, Prowin hop. We tried 3 different air nozzles on the gearbox and it would refuse to feed on everyone. We dropped back in the stock polycarb hop unit and it shot perfectly. Same bucking and barrel. Absolutely no reason for that hop unit to be causing problems, It's visually perfect.
  4. https://www.ant-supplies.uk/rails-and-adapters/m-lok-handguard-rails.html Ant supplies are a good site to bookmark for rails and scope mounts. They tend to be well priced and have stock.
  5. I've got an old GBB Umarex Beretta it's a Mod 96A1. Runs standard C02 bulbs and always shoots at 0.9J on 0.25's just under 300fps. I've run it for years and it's never let me down. I'm not even sure if they still make them, I think mine was about £45 with 2 mags. Just done some digging on the serial numbers, it's a re-branded KJWORKS (KJW) pistol. They seem to have a few in the range in the UK that are both CO2 and site legal.
  6. Here you go bud. https://www.specshop.pl/product-eng-9042-MadBull-Daniel-Defense-RIS-Kit-L85-SA80-Rail-G-G.html Chances of finding a second hand one are remote. And if you do it'll probably be for sale bolted to a rifle that has been tweaked so you will be looking at investment money rather than a cheap deal.
  7. One option that might work using the AUG is to scrap the body altogether. Make a peg board of just the gearbox, hop unit and inner barrel. On something solid. So you can physically clamp the hop into the gearbox and it might work. The trick would be ensuring that all 3 sit perfectly in line. It wouldn't be easy but it should be possible. I would scrap any notion of the gun splitting. Run with a rear entry concept. So to remove the hop and inner barrel you have to remove the gearbox. The gearbox would have to be the AUG v3 (it's slightly different to other v3's). To control fire selection you make a sliding trigger as opposed to a normal pivot trigger. With that, you can control the fire mode with an interference bar directly on the trigger. To control distance just make part of the bar threaded rod and use the threading to set distance. Don't bother with pivoted linkages they add slop to the trigger and it will feel disconnected. It's quite hard to explain but possible if you spend a lot of time on it. The advantage to going with the pegboard to hold everything true is the rest of the bodywork can bolt onto that. The hop on an AUG runs tight to the gearbox and has a little plastic spacer that locks to the hop unit. So there is no float to account for like with other systems. Provided it's up tight and inline it's right. You also don't need to worry about the motor as the AUG gearbox is a caged motor, and locks hard into position with screws, It needs no support, and has inbuilt motor height controls. The basic AUG can be had cheap. €89/£75 https://gunfire.com/en/products/sw-020b-carbine-replica-olive-drab-1152215955.html With that you will get the gearbox, hop and barrel. So it's just a matter of stripping it and mounting it all to a frame that will fit your format. The only issue you might have is magazines. You will have to construct a magwell and lock for whatever mags you are going to use. M4 mags would probably look the best. And the standard M4 mag catch could probably be incorporated very easily if your peg board is wide enough.
  8. Augs are very odd internally. Not like any other AEG once you understand them a little. The body of the gun acts as a guide for the gearbox. There is nothing holding the gearbox in place other than a plate at the back of the gun, and the shape of the internals. There are no screws or hard fixings. The hop units are also free floating and have no location point other than the front of the gearbox. As such you would need to accommodate a certain amount of the aug body to make it work. You would need to retain most of the stock section. It's also the pressure between the hop and the gearbox that stops the takedown pin sliding out. The whole gun functions as 1 piece with only the hop spring and friction locking everything to the takedown pin. The trigger is nothing more than a bar, and the gearbox has no selector plate. Instead, it uses 2 sets of contacts on the same gearbox trigger, and distance selects semi or auto. ----------- The gearbox would suit your build. The 2 stage trigger and the simplicity of no selector would make it easy to modify. The body, on the other hand, isn't suitable. There is very little you could remove without significantly upsetting the gun. The gun uses its shape to function, and with bit's cutaway it would prove very problematic.
  9. Iceni


    Superglue, A nice low viscosity one like ZAP CA - Thin CA. It's capillary grade, and you will only need a dab on a cocktail stick. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pacer-Technology-Zap-CA-Adhesives/dp/B0006O8EDU/ref=sr_1_16?adgrpid=53919449515&gclid=Cj0KCQjwt_nmBRD0ARIsAJYs6o2bfn4qKuvQwpq9jk6cP0f563j_I1zk3jgvU6SkJAGH9oExpvIH2XMaAmEkEALw_wcB&hvadid=259011885351&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9046172&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=b&hvrand=1234253116159213617&hvtargid=kwd-300189798611&hydadcr=170_1736084&keywords=zap-a-gap&qid=1558133984&s=gateway&sr=8-16 Play with it first tho, If you have never used capillary grade superglue it's vicious. A single drop is often way too much as it will spread and keep spreading. Normally I'll put a single drop into an old bottle lid and use a cocktail stick to apply it. Apply to the screw, not the internal threads. Make sure both parts are de-greased. And have an idea where you want it set before you apply glue. When you find the right spot count the turns out as you remove the screw, then count them back in when you put the screw back in with a little glue. The glue will set very quickly and may need a little heat to separate once it's set.
  10. I suspect you mean the rail for the top of the gearbox that holds the baffles and spring. It's normally called a stop rail or stopperrail. Firesupport sell the TM one for £3 https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/marui-aug-stopper-rail-part-st-27 The part is AUG specific, other V3 gearbox guns do not have the cutouts and folds to accommodate the baffles and spring system that drops into it.
  11. I thought that when I first saw the unit. Then I looked at stand alone tracer prices. For the £100 you get a tracer that can function by itself. And it's a good tracer unit. That's a £60 part. You can always re-sleeve the tracer in another suppressor if you want a different look. Add in the chrono and you're looking at the price of the whole unit. Add in the fact the chrono is a real-time always on chrono. So you can watch your gun more closely in game, and use it as a tool to watch fps deviation without the hassle of having to set up on a range. The FCU is just a toy at this point, but it could hold some real value as a drop in unit for new guns that you haven't got round to rewiring. Or as a drop in unit for milsim where you can set a real steel mag capacity, And have a shot counter for the whole session if you are playing with ammo limits. You also get the burst mode for ammo saving. If it offers even partial contact protection then it's a very decent bundle. It's also got the low battery warning for your lipo's. As such I think it's a decent well thought out system, That can offer some real benefits that other units simply can't compete with. I'd pay good money for just the chrono when I have problem guns. Even if the chrono reads a little high or low, Provided it's consistent you can always reference it against the site chrono, Then watch your shots, shot to shot as you play.
  12. I don't own one. But I was to buy a tracer it would probably be the Xcoretech X3300W. Reason been it's got the chrono built in as well. There a little out of budget at £105. The unit is quite interesting. You get a tracer, Control box and a fire control unit. The tracer can be used by itself, Or with the control box as a chrono, and shot counter. The FCU can stop the gun shooting, So with all 3 working together, you can set it with a count down on shots. You can program it to match your mags. So if you run 140rnd mid caps, set the unit to 130, and never dry fire again. When you mag swap the round button will reset the clock. It also has a controllable burst mode when you use all 3 modules. 2-10rnd. The only thing that lets it down is the FCU doesn't play nice with mosfets. All 3 units are wireless as well. So you can have the PEQ box in a pocket, and there are no trailing wires on the gun.
  13. Low/Mid caps don't need any winding. They have a long spring and a single storage tube that will hold anywhere from 15 to 200 rounds depending on the mag. Loads of companies make them. If you are planning on fast mag swapping and dropping the mags then there are budget mags done in boxes that allow for the mags to be almost throw away. At £5.50 a mag quality and throwing them about doesn't matter so much. https://www.taiwangun.com/en/aeg-mid-cap/bluebox-10x-140rd-mid-cap-magazine-for-m4-m16-series-black-guarder The other advantage to low/mids is they don't rattle as you run.
  14. If it is motor engagement then this might apply. Shim job would cut down on some of the noise. With it been a bullpup it's always going to be noisy. Having just done my first 13:1 gear conversion that might be something you could do. 12/13:1 gears run with a slower (but more powerful) motor, So the motor and gears spin less for each shot. The build I just completed was 13:1 gears matched to the ASG ultimate CNC 30,000 motor. With an M120 it was chucking out 1.6J at 21rps on 7.4v lipos. With an M110 that has been cut by 1.5 coils it's doing 1.12J at 24rps on 7.4v lipos. Pair that up with a plastic silent piston head, and the correct cylinder head and you could make some significant noise reductions. You will always hear the gears in a bullpup the design of them means you are resting your chin and ear directly over the gearbox and all noise is going to get directly transferred to your head. Another option might be having a word with a local dressmaker, And having them make up a stock sock in neoprene with a zip at the bottom. There is no way to pack it internally because of the design of the gun so this might be a good solution to make it a bit more comfortable on the ears. You should be able to have a tech do any of the above work bar the sock. Going over to a 13:1 set isn't cheap. Doing it yourself you have a basic outlay of the gears, motor, bushings, and heads. That's going to cost £100 ish just in parts. Sticking to 18:1 and adding a motor is pretty easy. If the shimming isn't right then chances are it'll still be wrong even after a motor swap. One thing you might try is the motor height adjustment screw. It'll be on the bottom of the motor. So remove the back cover to the gearbox. Then there should be a motor in a cage, and at the very bottom there will be a screw that looks directly up into the motor. Get the correct drive for the screw it might be allen or a flat screwdriver ect. And just give it half a turn and see if it make it sound better or worse. If it sounds worse try half a turn in the other direction.
  15. @ak2m4 I picked up a RA M110 when I got the gears and other parts. It'll get dropped in once I get chance. I'm actually worried the motor might be a little much now and I have to start to mess it about to get it shooting within the limits, without having cycle issues. Update: Going off the fact @ak2m4 said it was am M120 spring, I took the M110 RA spring and cut 1.5 coils off it. Chrono results 310fps on 0.25g. 1.12 Joules. Absolute perfection. TYVM for all the help on this thread. The trigger response is now instant. And the gun is spitting 24rps. @Sitting Duck Thank you.
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