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Iceni last won the day on May 17 2020

Iceni had the most liked content!


About Iceni

  • Rank
    AF-UK Addict

Profile Information

  • Guns
    LCT G3 olive, ASG AUG A3, APS AUG A1, G&G GR 300, Cyma AKM.
  • Loadouts
    DPM, Flecktarn 1990's.
  • Sites
    The Grange, Fireball.

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  1. The OP makes no mention of been Gunman exclusive, You brought that into the mix.
  2. No they don't do Coldwar at my local Gunman site. They do Camo v/s solid colours, with shooting role rules. Certainly not Coldwar. However there are/were multiple Gunman sites. https://gunmanairsoftmidlands.com/ Most of the CW games I've played were at Fireball (Bassets Pole). Where there were no such rules regarding camo. It was nice to see the CW kit, but not essential for gameplay. They still divided players by banding arms as they felt it was unreasonable to turn players away. A good portion of players made the effort so it worked pretty well. I'll concede on the SMLE, I'd seen
  3. Iceni

    Aug A1

    Depends on what it needs. If you know what's missing make a list, Otherwise take some pictures and explain what you think is missing. I'll warn you tho not all aug parts are easy to get hold of.
  4. The guns for Brit kit are the hardest part. There's a set of blueprints for the Sterling on the net, You need to be able to weld and bend some sheet metal to make it. But most of the gun is a single section of pipe with holes and slots in the correct place. My shooting partner has been toying with the idea of making one for a few years, but so far nothing has come of it. SLR wise, your not going to find a KA one for a reasonable price unless they do a rerun of the old model. There's always rumours about this happening but so far nothing has been seen. It is possible to convert a metric f
  5. There's a few things I would want to check there. There's a potential break on the + at the bottom of the gearbox. Personally I would rewire it because of the insulation damage, You might be able to get away with it, In my head that would be a potential hot spot in the wire, and a good enough reason for a full rewire. If you are no good with a soldering iron then you might want to find someone that is. The contacts look the be black at the tip. This could cause issues with the contacts if it's insulating it. 20 seconds with some 2000 grit wet and dry will get it back to rights.
  6. Do the mounting screws have shoulders? (An unthreaded part). It might be as simple as the shoulders are a little too long and it's locking onto the other side of the mount but the screw itself is preventing the mount from nipping up. Unfortunately there is no standard for mounting screws. So you will have to work out what the screw are (length and pitch, and also metric or imperial) then get replacements without shoulder or a shallower shoulder. If you have branded mounts it'll be pretty easy as you can probably email the company that made them. If it's Ebay specials then have a look on
  7. It's what forums are for, If you can't have a discussion then there's no point. If anything is to be taken away from this it's that I shouldn't go for a shower halfway through editing a post that was posted then moved directly to an edit window. You only commented on what was visible at the time you posted. It's my bad. It's been bugging me all day Edit: In a motor with no load BEMF does limit the speed. As the motor gets faster, you generate more BEMF, This causes the EMF and current to the motor to drop, but the speed will remain constant. In effect it acts to govern the
  8. I am an habitual editor, If I post something I'm generally moving things about for a good 30 minutes. Hell I was still editing the one from yesterday up to about an hour ago! I'm still not happy with some of the wording. I'd probably edit that to say allows rather than gives. But I'll leave it be since it got commented on! I've been caught by it before, Brain engages I write and post then rethink and rethink it. I've caught others out who do it as well. It's part of been on a forum.
  9. Incorrect but also correct. The voltage allows the current to charge the coil to an energy potential. This is why current always lags voltage in inducted circuits. Without the voltage you can't get the amps in place, but you can still over amp a motor that is running at a lower voltage by adding load. The added amps in that case are not going to make the motor faster as the motor is trying to work harder. Try to explain that voltage doesn't really do anything, but at the same time it's controlling your motor speed, but what you really want is amps, but not an overload of amps due to load
  10. Trouble there is your looking at W. W is a static measurement for energy consumption. The measurement you need is EMF - Electro motive force. Faraday's law of induction. EMF is voltage. More voltage is more RPM, because more voltage gives a stronger magnetic field in the windings. More magnetism means more force pushing against the case magnets. More force is more speed in this instance. With no load V will always = a set RPM due to the EMF. :: A 7.4v can never equal an 11.1 for speed on the same motor. More Current (Amps) means more torque. Torque is the work you can do as in energy. S
  11. How many teeth on the sector? 15 or 16. I'm wondering if the delayer chip could do with a little shave. If you can just drop in a picture of just the sector with the last rack tooth at 12 o clock and the delayer in place. I might be wrong (often am), but that chip looks like it might just be big enough to be still holding onto the tappet a little as the piston fires. There's also sometimes the inverse of that issue where the delayer opens the tappet a little too soon and causes a weaker shot. If you have a spare smaller delay chip you could try that, or Just to test try shooting in si
  12. If you are 100% that it's not the selector and the little spring is in place. Then it's something you have done to the gearbox. COL damaged or too tight. Damage to the contacts dolly. Edit: The selector wants to go backwards not forwards as I said above... There's a little cutout at the front of the selector that the COL rides in. When the COL drops into that wider part the gun should be in semi.
  13. Selector plate is a tooth out on the linkage. Makes the gun go Safe>Auto>Auto @Adolf Hamster I thought you owned a boat load of AK's! Have you never had this happen! The selector probably wants moving 1 tooth backwards. But it might be more than that. When you get it right A dab of paint on the selector and linkage will give you a quick rebuild reference.
  14. Iceni


    PME is usually fatal. I don't believe there is such a thing as a little bit of PME. Piston bounce (no padding and a piston that physically bounces off the cylinder head is sorted by adding some padding) and Double shooting (High speed motor on slower high ratio gears [the gears spin faster 18:1+] allows the bevel and spur to act like flywheels dragging a second shot out of the gear train energy - Sorted with correct gearing and motor choice) are not PME. Once any PME has happened then there's going to be damage. There isn't space in a gearbox for damage not to happen, crushed piston, stripp
  15. Crushed piston rear end. PME failure. You can see how the rack has twisted up and out of the way allowing the sector to gouge the rack. You were lucky it didn't destroy anything else, but I wouldn't have any faith in that gear set not having cracks in the teeth. I'm surprised it was running at all with all that lube. For less than £3 you can get a nice soft moly grease for gears... At a push I'd use it on the pistol rings as well. It's far better than nothing. I've been using it on my own gears for a pretty long time now. Use on metal/metal contact areas if you have a silicone based grease
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