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Finally got the correct green, so helmet 2 of 3 is now painted. I figured if I couldnt find a tropentarn cover, Ill just get a tan cover and paint the helmet. There may be another setup here soon... Before: After:

More Blue Force Gear sling attachments 👌 SEAL Team Multicam Baseball cap 😎

I've found some small size LiPos on Vapextech The other place I look is Hobbyking. Scroll down on bottom left you can enter dimensions you want

Usually whatever is on Planet Rock at the time. However at camp at the NAE etc you can usually hear this drifting from our team camp And at some point inevitably this will come on

Well done. This thread tests peoples character out, there is usually 2 reactions. 1. They flip out like morons and embarass themselves or 2. Your approach. You passed the test, you can stay

So this rifle came from Bespoke Airsoft in the U.K. The sling is a M1903- M1907 from Soldier of Fortune. You can get the upgraded version from Swit Airsoft but expect to pay at least £150 more plus import/custom charges!! 01

Introduction: I’m making this guide for several reasons, not least because I’m sad and have nothing better to do, or maybe I’m procrastinating from doing real work, but I’d also like to get down on paper some thoughts on the science of our pew pew guns and clear up some misconceptions or at least get a discussion going to better our understanding. This guide is going to be a combination of actual science (well, as close as I can get to actual science ) and some personal experience, I’m by no means the most experienced airsofter out there but I’ve tried over the years to get an understanding of what’s going on and for those new to the hobby this might save some time barking up the wrong tree as I’ve done. Part 1: the goal Well this is simple, our goal is to shoot some random stranger on a farm on a Sunday and “kill” him, or at least hit him with a plastic pellet and for him to shout “hit” and plod off back to a chequered flag. This sounds pretty easy, but we need to start somewhere, so what do we need to make this happen? Well we need to hit him for a start, always helps, but not only that but we need to hit him hard. That’s not to say we need to hurt him, but whilst we can argue all day about wether or not people should wear plate carriers the short of it is you need your bb’s to hit with enough energy that he either feels it or hears the impact (which on a field of explosions and other people pew pewing can be difficult). So when our bb hits the target it needs energy. This is why I dislike to some extent the “you can get lots of range from a 328fps gun” argument, yes you can, but how far the bb travels isn’t the only part of getting a kill and just hitting isn't always enough sadly. Part 2: some misconceptions One thing that I see a lot in various threads is “upgrade your fps it’ll give you more range” or “change to x y or z hop it’ll give you more range” or “use x type of bb it’ll give you more range”, which is both right and wrong depending on how you judge range which will become more clear later. The thing to remember is once your bb leaves your barrel it doesn’t care what happened before, it could have come from a speedsofter’s £3000 hpa or some kids £90 rental ak, it only has 3 things on it’s side to fight the wind/tree branches/gravity to get to the target and these are: Backspin- this gives us our wonderful magnus force that will fight gravity and keep our bb in the air without needing to go at proper bullet speeds Mass- how much the bb weighs Energy- kinetic energy, we often like to use fps as our measurement as it’s how we can best record our performance but what really matters is energy So we should probably cover these 3 as they apply to our bb in flight. part 3- backspin backspin gives us our magnus force, the science behind it is quite interesting and worth a read if you’re interested in expanding your knowledge but in reality the only thing that we need to know is if our hop unit is set right. Now this is different for every setup, how fast the bb is actually spinning doesn’t really matter to us, it could be 1rpm or 10,000 rpm, we don’t care we just want our bb to fly straight. Now personally I set my hop units for a little bit of rise, about 20cm, so that when the bb comes out it’ll rise up by 20cm then start falling back down. The logic here is that if I’m aiming for someone’s chest it’s not going to jump up over their head, miss then drop back down behind them. We’ve all been there where our hop has made us miss someone. In terms of the physics the amount of lift we get depends on 2 things: The speed of rotation, which is pretty much constant after the bb has left the barrel (well, it slows down a bit but not much) The velocity of the bb When we “set” our hop unit what we’re doing is setting the speed of rotation to get the right lift, but if we change ammo or change springs the bb will either be going slower (needing more spin to get the same lift) or faster (needing less spin). Now the important thing to remember is that if we’re spinning x rpm, then there’s y velocity that gives us the exact amount of lift to fight gravity, but of course a bb doesn’t stay at y velocity, it slows down which is where mass comes in. Part 4- mass So we have our spin, but as I mentioned bb’s slow down, and this is the misconception I had many years ago that faster bb=more range The important thing is air resistance, which the faster you go the more of it you have so your bb slows down quicker (moving it out of that sweet spot for the hop spin to work) So say we have a 1j gun, we fire at 328fps on a .2g bb and 270fps for a .3gbb well that .2g bb is going faster, so it has more drag, and it’s lighter so the drag has more effect. The end result is the bb slows down very quickly and it doesn’t take long for it to slow down so much our backspin stops lifting it. Whereas the .3g bb is slower and harder to slow down, sure it might have started out slower but over time it keeps it’s velocity and hence stays in that nice range where the backspin can lift it. So in theory at least a heavier bb spun sufficiently will for the same energy always go further, take a look at the spreadsheet at the bottom and see what I mean. But wait, it gets better! Remember I said we need 2 things to hit a target? Well a heavier bb gives us both! In the real world we’re shooting through wind and worse leaves, these are forces just like regular ol’ drag and a heavy bb will be blown about less by the wind and has a better chance of punching straight through those pesky leaves and hitting the target, so we get more accuracy, yay! But not only are they more accurate they also carry their energy better, so when we do hit the target at range it’s going to hit it harder, and thus make enough force and noise to let the target know they’ve been hit. So where’s the downside? Why wouldn’t you run sniper .48’s in every gun you own and on every site? Well several reasons: 1. Cost, damn that pesky real world economics, but obviously heavier bb’s cost more. If you find somewhere selling .48’s for the same price as .2’s then let me know because that’s awesome. Those of us that own support guns with high rates of fire will most likely wince at having to fill it up with costly ammo only to be sprayed into the ether, likewise snipers who don’t shoot much can afford the good stuff hence why they like to run heavy. 2. Travel time, again this is the real world being all awkward and getting in the way of our lovely discussion but remember that our target may not be nice enough to stand still and wait to get hit, especially if he sees our bb’s coming towards him. Heavy bb’s might carry their energy better but they’re slower and take longer to go the same distance, not much longer, but it's enough. edit: it must be noted that a large proportion of perceived travel time is down to the additional range, whilst a .2 will be faster over a short distance remember that a .3 or .4 will still be chugging along long after the .2 as slowed down and dropped. 3. Getting the lift, unfortunately the same properties that make a bb great in flight make them bad for spinning up in the hop unit, and this means that you may find you can’t run them without upgrading your gun and if (like me at the time) you don’t understand fully why it’s happening. This is the “more hop” argument for things like maple leaf/flathop/rhop guns, it isn’t about getting lots of hop on .2’s, it’s about being able to get enough hop on .3’s or heavier. 4. When you don’t need range, now I play mostly outdoors on sites limited to 1j, so for me getting every drop of performance I can is paramount, but say you’re playing in cqb where the maximum distance is maybe 10m, well there’s not much point spending money getting a setup that can shoot well beyond that if you’re not going to be using it, you’d be much better spending money on grenades. So what weight should you run? Well as heavy as you can afford and your gun can lift. Personally I use .3’s for all my “assault” type guns, .2’s in my mg42 (even though it shoots lovely on .3’s) and .43’s in my vsr, although should I ever sell my soul and play indoors I’ll just run .2’s. Part 5- energy So our final ingredient is energy, most folks will know this as fps because when we’re getting our guns checked at the local site that’s what we get told “oh sorry you’re 400fps and the limit is 350 so you can’t play”. Well what’s really important is energy, kinetic energy, which is a factor of our bb mass and it’s velocity, it’s why the limits are different for different weights of bb’s and why it’s a common tactic of the cheater to rock up at the chrono and say “yeah I’m running .2’s” and to chrono at 328fps while anyone with a lick of sense can hear the smack of the bb’s against the backstop and think “like hell is he running .2’s” This is where I take exception to the argument of “marui’s shoot fine at 328fps, you don’t need fps to get range”, well you do, or at least you should try to get your gun shooting as close to your site limit as you can. The short argument is energy is energy and more is always better, the long version is that energy gives us the velocity that means we need less backspin and can run heavier bb’s without them being really slow and letting our targets stroll out of the path of our righteous pewing. Remember once the bb leaves the barrel it only has 3 things, and mass is the only one it’ll not lose as it flies downrange. As your bb slows down in the wind it loses energy so the more of it you have at the start the better, it’s why all the cheaters want to run hot. A friend of mine recently lent me his m16 to do a bit of work on, he was keeping up in terms of range with most of the folk he was shooting at in part due to a good hop, but he’d rage daily at people not taking hits until we chrono’d it to find it shooting at half the site energy, turned out his floating bb’s were hitting with so little force if he was at any distance people just weren’t feeling it. Now to digress from external ballistics for a second (well, more like 10 minutes) to talk about joule creep. Think about it like this, our bb in the barrel gets pushed by gas, and how long it gets pushed for depends on the length of the barrel and how quickly it’s getting pushed. Joule creep is what happens when you have an “over gassed” gun firing .2’s, whilst you can do this with an aeg or a spring sniper it’s much more common in gas/hpa guns. Think about it like this, your gun can only push so hard, and a light bb will get up to speed very quickly, once it leaves the barrel then it’s not going to be pushed any more. So imagine we had a longer barrel, well if we push just as hard over a longer distance then the bb will spend more time accelerating and hence be going faster. Well the other way to make a bb spend more time in the barrel is to make it accelerate slower, now we can do this by making the bb heavier, so for the same force it’ll accelerate less (remember newton’s f=ma? Who says math class in school was useless). Now it’s not going to come out any faster than the light bb, but it doesn’t need to, it’s heavier so doesn’t need to go as fast to have the same energy. A good way to test this is to take a WE or marui gbb pistol, fill it up with .2’s and chrono it, for the sake of argument lets say it fires at 328fps which is 1j Now try it with .3’s and it fires 300fps, which is 1.2j or equivalent to firing a .2 going at 370fps This is why it’s important to chrono a gun on the weight you plan on using in a game, because a player can perfectly honestly, indeed without even realising himself, chrono his gun on .2’s and pass, but then fill his mags with .3’s and spend the rest of the day shooting a hot gun. Now you can argue all day that “yeah but he passed the chrono”, well it’s the exact same thing as running hot, the effect is the same (ie it hurts more and he has a more range), if everyone on the site does it or is happy with people doing it then the site's limits should be changed to reflect this. so digression aside what energy should you run? Well my opinion is you should take your site limit in joules and get your gun to shoot that on the ammo you use, any less will be a disadvantage and any more will be cheating. Part 6- nerd time! Well, that was a long rant without nerdy equations and whatnot so time to put our science hats on. So our bb in flight has 3 forces acting on it: Lift- from our magnus force, this is a product of our backspin and our velocity. The full equation I’ve used is for a cylinder but it’s close enough for showing the effect: Fl=ρ*v*2*π*r²*l*ω Looks an awful lot like it’s not just backspin and velocity there so lets break it down: Fl is our lifting force v is our velocity ω is our angular velocity (aka how much spin we have) r is our radius l is our length (for the cylinder example I stole this equation from) ρ is the density of air so if you think about it, if we make some broad assumptions we can say that the spin doesn’t slow down (at least not enough to make a difference) and the density of air doesn’t change enough to make a difference either. Now we’re dealing with the same size of bb so really the only things that can change are F as a product of v and ω. Drag- this is just from velocity and bb diameter (so sorry marushin guys but not sorry, we’re dealing with 6mm spheres here), although once again we have a more complicated equation: F=0.5*ρ*v²*Cd*A Ok so that’s not as bad Fl once again is our force, only this time it’s for drag Ρ has snuck in again, it’s the same atmospheric density v is a bit of a cheat, technically it’s the velocity of the air against the bb but I’m not NASA so the velocity of the bb is close enough Cd is our drag coefficient, again a big simplification but for our purposes we’re saying 0.47 for a sphere that’s got turbulent air around it (little known pseudo fact marui “magic dust” actually bonds the airflow to the bb causing laminar flow dropping the Cd to 0.1! (*not entirely serious)) A is our frontal area of the bb, good ol’ πr² So making the same assumptions before, with the addition of assuming turbulent flow, we end up with Fd being variable as a result of v. Gravity- this is from our bb weight and here comes the scary equation: Fg=m*g Wait, what? That was meant to be complicated! Well once again it is, technically g can depend on where on earth you are but in reality nobody cares because it’s close enough. Remember back to school math g is 9.81m/s² So with that explained on to the bit where I skip the really dull bit and just tell you to go look at the spreadsheet, basically it takes these 3 equations and with the starting parameters you give it it’ll spit out a graph of how different weight bb’s will fly. So as a quick note on it’s use: Muzzle energy- I’ve rated this as fps on a .2gbb just because that’s a unit we’re all familiar with, if you want to use joules it’s to the right of the reset hop button MED distance- this is the distance of your MED, for snipers interested in just how much hurt your 500fps gun running .5g bb’s inflicts on someone at 20m Energy at MED- this gives you an MED if you want to know how far a bb goes before it slows down to a given energy, useful for showing how far a bb can go whilst still hitting as hard as an equivalent gun point blank. Reset hop- this was a right pain making the spreadsheet so unfortunately the best I can do is fix the hop setting for a 20cm rise before it drops again, this will change if the fps is different so remember to press that button otherwise you’ll get some suspiciously good range numbers and some strange graphs. Maximum range- this I’ve set to the distance I’d call the “effective” range, ie when a bb has risen 20cm from where it left the barrel, then drop to 20cm below where it left the barrel, so if you fire at a man sized target you’ll hit him without needing to fire your gun wildly into the air and assuming he’s kind enough to stand there and get shot. So a couple of interesting points to note: Say we have a site, regular rifles have no MED and can be 1.3j or 375fps, snipers have 2.3j or 500fps but they have a 20m MED: Our rifleman running .2’s can shoot 38m, but if he can get enough spin to lob a .5g bb he’ll shoot 52m Our sniper running .2’s can shoot 43m, and at 20m the hit is a measly 0.4j or the same as being shot point blank by a 205fps gun, thing is if he packs .5’s in his gun he’ll shoot 60m and more importantly at 20m he hits with 1.27 joules, or the same as being hit by the rifleman at point blank So with that I’ll leave you to have a little play. Part 7- but I’m not a nerd! What do I need to do to get my gun to shoot far? So we’ve covered pretty well the science of how to get a bb to go far, it needs to be heavy, with lots of energy, and enough spin and if it has those 3 things it’ll go as far regardless of what gun it comes from. So why spend money on a fancy polarstar kit with an rhop like my favourite youtuber uses? Well back at the start we mentioned you need 2 things to get hits, and the first is you need to hit in the first place. This is where all our upgrades come in, a fancy barrel and hop unit wont make your bb’s go any further, but what it will mean is they’ll all start the same, we’ve all seen that guy with his 50rps dsg build m4 spray a mag load of bb’s only to get salty and rage because “he’s not calling his hits” when in reality by the time it gets to the target it’s a 10 foot spread and he's not hitting a thing. So the first place I’d recommend looking is your hop unit, there’s a million different designs that promise the earth so I’m just going to cover the standard, flat and radial hop and hopefully explain what’s going on so you can understand what some of the fancier designs out there like maple leaf are doing. So the standard hop is what most guns come with these days, it’s basically a lump of rubber in your barrel: Now lets add the bb, the trick here is to realise that a barrel is not exactly 6mm and neither is the bb, nothing is perfect and there’s a tolerance. So when you’re buying expensive barrels and bb’s what you’re really paying for is for them to be exactly the size they say they are and in the case of bb’s to be all exactly the same size. Now a bb is slightly smaller than the barrel, so we can be sure it won’t get stuck, this is why it’s important to keep your barrel and ammo clean because enough dirt and it’ll be rubbing it’s way down messing up that lovely backspin we want. Now we want our backspin to be the same every time, not just in terms of how much backspin there is but also in terms of the backspin being the same every time: The perfect scenario is vertical spin like this: But of course the bb isn’t going to be nice and pop perfectly in the centre every time: So our spin is at an angle, and as a result our magnus force will also be at an angle, lifting the bb not just up but sideways, this means it’ll try and curve off to the left or right, and because not all the force it acting upwards it’ll also lift up more or less, this is our friend with his ultra fast gun shooting a 10 foot spread and not hitting anything. So our alternative is to flat hop, and try to minimise this angle: Which when we try our wonky bb does this: So we get less angle, our bb’s drift less and our spread is less, meaning our bb’s are much more likely to hit what we’re aiming at, not only that but a flat hop will have a longer contact patch, or in other words it spends longer spinning the bb, meaning we can spin heavier bb’s and get all the wonderful benefits heavier ammo allows us. Flat hopping a gun really isn’t as hard as you’d think it would be and can get some excellent results for very little money, and whilst it wont give you more total range on it’s own, it will give you accuracy and the ability to use heavier ammo increasing the range you can hit things. edit: as a minor digression i figure i might as well cover how to make a flathop seeing as it's one of the best bang for buck airsoft upgrades out there as you can really tighten up the groupings of a gun potentially for free: 1. remove the hop from your gun, this can be very simple or very difficult depending on the particular model, for example my f2000 is just 1 pin to remove the upper and the hop/barrel is right there to pull out, but a jg ak takes much more disassembly, as with all things youtube the gun you have for a guide, take your time and remember- as long as you don't lose parts you can always take it to a tech to get it sorted, so don't worry. 2. pull the stock hop unit apart, you want the rubber and the nub (the little cylindrical rubber thing that'll drop out when you remove the barrel), the nub you can toss away as you'll want to replace it with a flat nub, various manufacturers (Prometheus being somewhat prominent) make these but if you're handy with a knife and super cheap you can make a heath robinson flat nub out of a pencil eraser. again youtube is your friend for how to disassemble and re-assemble a hop unit. 3. turn the stock hop rubber inside out, this can be tricky and i find using an alan key (or similar pokey type object) can help tremendously, don't use anything sharp though as you don't want to poke holes in your rubber (air leaks are bad m'kay) 4. cut the bump off the inside, as well as the ridge on the bottom used to line it up, or if you prefer there are pre-made flathop rubbers out there which will save you the bother. the important thing we're aiming for here is no holes, and no bumps on the inside of the rubber 5. put the hop rubber back on the barrel, but remember where the ridge was? well turn that 90 degrees from the ridge on the barrel, this way we've got the side of the original hop rubber on the barrel which will be nice and smooth (assuming like me you couldn't be bothered to fully sand down the insides and instead just spent 20s with a pair of snips during step 4) 6. this step is optional but recommended is to take some ptfe tape and wrap it around where the hop and barrel overlap, the idea here is to seal air particularly where the ridge cut in the barrel is that is no longer sealed as we've removed the ridge, you don't need too much or else you'll have a hard time re-inserting your barrel into the hop chamber 7. re-assemble the hop unit, this should mostly be the reverse of the dissassembly, with the exception that we're replacing the original round nub with our new flat nub, you may need to trim the nub a bit shorter to fit the hole in the hop unit (which will again depend on brand). now the trick here is when you've got it assembled to take a look down the barrel, turn the hop on all the way and check it's working, and also check the angle it's coming out at, if it's down too far on one side or the other this will pull your shots off to that side so we want it nice and square, the way i do this is literally to "twiddle" the barrel until everything's nice and square. 8. finally, drop your hop back in your gun and go pew. But what if we want more? More is good right? Well my friend in steps the Rhop: Man it took ages to align that and it still looks wonky. Now this might sound controversial but in my opinion the rhop isn’t really much different to a flathop, but the devil’s in the details. Firstly it’s going to actively pull the bb’s into the centre, if you look at some of the fancy hop designs (like maple leaf) you’ll see they’re trying to go for the same idea. The DIY rhop just takes a regular flat hop and pops a cut up square of rubber in the window of the barrel, commonly you'll see folk mentioning silicon hose or you can buy dedicated rhop patches. when it’s turned on it can end up looking very flat inside the barrel, but remember when it deforms it’ll wrap round the bb: So we get as close as we can get to perfect vertical spin every time, and we have the same longer contact patch the flat hop gave us so we can still lift heavy ammo. Now remember that a bb’s lift is not just a product of spin, but also its velocity and herein lies the advantage of the rhop. Hop up rubbers come in different hardness’s, and like formula 1 fans will tell you a soft rubber is going to be grippy and a hard rubber not so grippy, now these aren’t cars but there’s one solid advantage to a hard rubber and that’s stopping leaks- remember your airsoft gun is chucking a lot of air behind that bb and air likes to escape. Now one way is to go down the barrel and shove the bb out of the way, but if it can shove its way out past the hop rubber or the nozzle or better yet just not go anywhere and stay in this nice cylinder thank you very much then it will. This is why common advice is to check for air leaks. Now since we’re talking about hops we’ll simply say that if you want a soft grippy rubber to spin your heavy bb’s then it’s going to be easier for the air to squish the rubber out of the way and sneak out, so we want a hard rubber, this is why hard rubber’s tend to be recommended for snipers as it’ll help prevent air leaks, and if you’ve played with the spreadsheet you’ll see that faster bb’s need less spin to lift, so the grip is less relevant if your gun is shooting fast. Well an rhop gives you the best of both worlds, because the patch and the main body of the rubber are separate you can have a nice hard air sealing rubber on the outside and a nice soft grippy rubber on the inside, yay! Downside is these can be a bit of a pain to get right, however it’s worth experimenting because the boost in accuracy and by extension effective range is a worthy payoff. now i haven't covered bb's barrels gearboxes and springs because frankly it's pretty straightforward: good bb's are consistent in size, weight, surface polish and roundness, check out Gasman's topic if you want to look at what makes up a good bb. good barrels are straight, there's no variation along their length, tight versus widebore is it's own topic but in my opinion that's secondary to quality (ie if you care enough to consider proper tight/widebores you should really focus on quality too) the argument for a tightbore is that it will allow less "wobble" of the bb as it can't rattle around as much, of course the counter argument is that the tighter tolerances mean the bb could hit the barrel and as a result gain spin in a different direction pulling the shot off. the inverse is true for widebores, whilst they could let the bb bounce around more the theory is the bb will be kept centred by a cushion of air and thus not bounce on the sides and get off-axis spin. barrel length isn't all that important for accuracy, anyone who's met the wrath of my 4" pdi barreled hicapa can attest to that, although for certain setups a long barrel can be rather useful (like trying to go for a quieter build, especially with hpa) i'll let you decide for yourself which side of the barrel argument you sit on, but remember quality is absolutely king. personally i get good results from pdi tightbores, but i've not really tried proper quality widebores to compare. good gearboxes don't leak air, so they have good o rings, good tolerances and good compression, apart from that most gearbox discussions are more about supporting higher rates of fire, reliable feeding etc. and springs give you more fps, pretty self explanatory, pick the right one for your setup and site limits. edit: hop units (ie the likes of madbull or pro-win) have more sensitive adjustments, features like the addition of tracer or holding bb capability, and are generally better quality, however they are not essential when compared to the rubbers and nubs they contain most of what makes an hpa system so good is it gives the same pressure and volume of air for every single shot and consistency of fps=consistency of spin=accuracy=effective range, it's also much easier to achieve reliable high rates of fire and the ability to tune your fps can be handy if you regularly travel to sites with different limits, of course the price you pay for this is having to carry around the small bomb air tank on your back all the time. Part 8- conclusions Well the primary conclusion from this is that I should really be getting back to doing proper work, and that it’s almost certain I’ve just annoyed several strangers on the internet with my wonky diagrams and half-baked ponderings who will proceed to tell me I’m wrong about something. Now I’m not trying to lie to you, and if I am wrong I’d like to know because at least half of what I know has been learned through internet arguments. hell I used to think running .2’s was the best way to go for low fps until a bunch of strangers on the internet told me I was wrong. When I properly tried it to prove to myself I was right I realised I was wrong, and now look at me preaching the benefits of heavy ammo, with science! The best way to learn this stuff is to try it, it might be scary to crack open your first hop unit and cut it up with a pair of snips to make a flat hop but if you’re too scared to do it the first time you’ll never be able to try it a second or third time and eventually get it right. But if you think I’ve made a mistake, or I’m spreading misinformation then please explain yourself so I can understand what the problem is and either admit i'm wrong and learn something, or prove you wrong and you'll learn something, either way someone gets to learn something and: now if anyone asks, i've been researching de-lamination of fibre matrix composites all morning ;) BB range study.xlsm edit 1: cleared up an issue with travel time using heavier bb's (ie it's only slower over short distances and the difference isn't that much), added a rough guide to flathopping (more as a motivation as to it being easy and effective than an actual tutorial), fixed a few spelling mistakes and changed some wording to make it a bit clearer in parts.

I've merged your two topics into one - you may notice some doubling up of replies.

I have noticed that ebay has gone from a half decent spot to ghost town and lot of the same item. I do go on used airsoft once every 3 months or so and laugh at the state of it.

try https://www.componentshop.co.uk/batteries/batteries-airsoft/batteries-airsoft-li-po-packs/batteries-airsoft-li-po-packs-74v.html they have the dimentions and you can choose the connector

hunger over brain not working. KWA from FireSupport they had a few bone yard TT33 i think there is one left for £75.00

Can fit 5 mags it at a squeeze, if I turn the rig upside down mags 3 & 4 fall out as this insert is a bit lose in the center (1st ever attempt) If I shake it about they all fall out due to the mags being much heavier compared to M4 mags which stay held in place when shaking. Funnily enough I've got a few more sheets being delivered this week to make more for my other rig and a friend. Should have spare to make you one, no worries.

Making it so the pull doesn't make me feel nauseous, once I'm past that point I can happily own it, rather than holding it at arms length and walking towards the nearest bin 🤢 Hopefully 2 stage, loading and felt under the finger ready to fire. Plus some other goodies.

Cheers. I have actually found zero one to be pretty decent over the years. I forgot i also got inspired re watching Kingsmen

You mean Zero One actually had stock of something!! 😂 Happy birthday BTW! 🍺

Furlough and a 40th birthday have been hard on the wallet. Firesupport and Zero one should stat in business a little while longer. the Desert Eagle and Striker were bone yard projects that kept me busy for a while. sadly I have now received my 1st TM lemon the series 70 mag falls out when the gun fires. Runs fine on any other of my TM mags just insufficient material to hold the series 70 mag in place.

As others a 22TPA motors is one thing to try. Taking out the Leviathon and testing with a standard trigger is another. Also you could try examining the SHS motor brushes and communicator condition, it's easy on the SHS, also look for any breaks in the wiring, hard to see from the top. Good video that one, thanks for posting @Sitting Duck, not seen it before. Anyone interested in motor / battery efficiency work checking out. I've got a similar device but it doesn't keep a record a the results, only displays. Very handy device

I can see myself buying the shield bodyguard.

I had the TM tri rail and I'm now running the TM high cycle version, both are pretty amazing IMO. As mentioned the 170 mid caps are great, they sometimes need a bit of breaking in but once they are they work flawlessly, even with the 25-30 RPS the high cycle can kick out. I do have a couple of high caps which can be a bit problematic (randomly unwinding, a pain as the mag has to be removed to wind it) but a solution that works for me is to only fill them to about 80% capacity and they are a lot more reliable but I still prefer using the mid caps. One issue I initially had was that the high cycle sometimes double tapped or burst on semi caused by mucky trigger contacts but once they were thoroughly cleaned up it has worked without issue. I would highly recommend both the tri rail and high cycle, I've seen the red dot version but the red dot takes up the top rail space so switching it out could be a pain if you want to use a different optic, though it does look good. Some are put off by the stupid barrel extension the high cycle comes with but it can be removed, I personally got a classic P90 flash hider but you can use the one attached to the end of the barrel extension.

Delivery received! I'll be reluctant to use Defcon again if I can help it. £300 worth of bits jammed into a envelope that was too small, resulting in it splitting open. But anyway... Found a great alternative use for my squat rack. My home gym now doubles as an armoury!! Dry built the cylinder while I had 5 minutes but that's about it. Not back at work now until Wednesday night so hopefully I'll get a bit of time before then.

@Albiscuit You can get one on Amazon for £25, see link below. I'm sat on the fence about doing it as my MP7's sprayed. https://www.amazon.co.uk/AIRSOFT-RAIL-MOUNT-BLACK-VERSION/dp/B00PIOSVWW/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=mp7+fma&qid=1589586679&sr=8-1

I'm wondering if the Leviathan is slowing the cycle time down the way the Titan can adjust the rof to say 70% BUT not up on these fancy mosfets - I'm old school The SHS's/RA motors knocking about with vented cans I believe to be more like 17/18tpa/26~28,000 rpm I also think even in 100% rof them fancy mosfets nick a bit of rof with all their wizardry inside and some the readings on amp draw are to be taking with a pinch of salt - though start @ 80~90a initial draw is correct A good vid showing the rise/fall on initial draw from standstill etc... (if you are bothered about crap) I'm presuming on a m120 spring you SS 3 teeth and only minor spacing inside piston to take a 400fps spring down to 330~340fps on say a 300mm barrel The draw is a bit high what the leviathan is reporting on auto but like I said the diagnostics or readings may be way out (or my own power meter is completely fucked) Yet what matters despite readings is how warm/hot the grip gets in use in reality sub 20amps is what I see on my power meter on that setup BUT, think the Leviathan could be throttling the rof and slamming on mega AB too m120, ss3 teeth, 13:1 etc... should get you 20rps to 24rps on a new 30k ish motor on 7.4v 25c & on 11.1v you should see that x 1.55 = 31~37rps (depends on wire used, breaks & how perfectly it is shimmed/motor angle etc... or if you like a sprinkle of luck) even taking motor performance as 26,000 divide by gear ratio 13.5 (actual ratio) gives a ball park of 20 on 7.4v which is 31 on 11.1v at around 340fps UK spec It does not make sense the 18k ferrite is outperforming the SHS 18,000 divide by 12.5 gear set = 14.4rps on 7.4v multiply by 1.55 = 22.32rps, the 25rps is coz you now using a more zesty 11.1v than say 25c Now the motor "could" be duff, could be a 22tpa but that would place the performance still at say 20,000 rpm aprox so the lower speed on SHS does not add up even if a ZCI torque which is around 22tpa (zci balanced is around 16tpa - hence the SHS HT & ZCI HT perform very differently, SHS HT is really a balanced motor) The motor could be assembled really poorly with the armature shimmed way off center from the magnetic field but doubt if if it would cripple the performance that much, just add a bit of amperage or heat The insulation could be poor, the way the SHS, G&G & others screw into a lock ring but doubt it (though Systema's had a short risk in some of their motors) Yet if there was a possible shortage, I would think the Leviathan would go nutz on a short/error warning You should easily obtain 30rps on 11.1v, so I would see if you can turn off loads of fancy settings turn off AB, turn off rof control or set to 100% & any fancy bollocks completely run it on a 7.4v or mild 11.1v if you ss3 teeth etc.... coz at full stroke 30rps is a bit risky and the other thing the Leviathan might be applying the rof by default (to save you ripping shit out your drive chain maybe) naaaahhhhh getting 20rps on 11.1v is what you should get on 7.4v so I'm inclined to think you should turn off everything in Leviathan first & retest, before blaming motor but yeah you could have got a duff or sluggish motor, yet me thinks you have a safety whistle enabled I suspect

Fuuuu... ship it stateside?

On tonight's episode of: "Airsoft D.I.WHY?!" I was well bored and curious today, so decided there was enough real-estate on the reciever of my Sniper rifle to fit a rail segment between the real mag, and the dummy mag. (Actually pushed the Plastic in there... 😕 ) Went well, need to file off the keymod "bumps" on the underside of the rail so it fits flush to the body. The angled grips makes it much comfort to operate now too. If I stick with the Angled Foregrip on there, I'll have to file off a few mm on the backend so the dummy mag can fit back in - but this isn't essential. This isn't an issue with a vertical grip obviously, but it feels uncomfortable compared to the AFG.

It's... alright for an AEG? and being able to switch between burst and full auto on the fly is quite a nice feature since some sites allow burst but not full auto. Unmodded this was firing 345-350 on .2's and getting some pretty decent range once the hop was broken in. Biggest complaints with it honestly? The upper and lower receiver aren't amazingly well fitted, so you get body wobble unless you add in some spacer to hold them in place. There's basically no battery space. it's just a thin tube along the top of the stock that also has the battery wire and fuse in as well.. so you're stuck to using short, thin batteries with it. Rest of the stocks solid plastic. Even greased and checked; you get a metallic smell from the gearbox after shooting for a while. Think the gears don't mesh amazingly well as even after only a little use they had some wear. Possibly because the upper and lower don't mesh properly/wobble and it's a open style split gearbox. It's not worth the £350ish price tag it has though by any means. There's better AEG's in the M4 look for less out there. I had a P90 for a while but honestly didn't enjoy the feel of it, or the top down magazine style of the gun. I only picked up the CQR on a whim last year after wanting a M4 but not the usual generic guff you see about. In hindsight, honestly wish I'd gone with a normal M16A2 or the like, or M4 Socom. CQR isn't bad but it's not worth what it cost by any means.

Just joined the MK23 club with the aim of sorting that NBB trigger out!

Fair enough ✌🏻 I guess it did help me out I. The end. It would have only came back to bite me in The ass if I had sold/swapped it with that title. hope everyone is keeping safe

Good to hear i will put a order on one wamt to make this into my main rifle for both cqb and outdoor 🤙

CYMA SR47 - review to follow

Updated photo of the 'armory'. Hera Arms CQR, Cyma MP5A4, AA Barrett .50 Cybergun Desert Eagle, Unknown Mac10, WE Luger, ASG Schofield Not pictured are the 1889 Winchester lever action and Mares leg

hahah Yes I've had it since.. well a VERY long time! ...abit like this... Marushin M1 Garand (GBB) with 10x 8rnd clips (8mm) Bespoke CO2 tank in the stock for 16g CO2 cartridges Tanio Koba rifled inner barrel

It looks like it's built for high FPS out of the box so that helps and only be firing in Semi so that helps. I wouldn't do Rhop with that budget, you really need the barrel machining to do it properly. If you were to use all Prometheus parts you may spend upto £170 below. HOP ASSY £0 Take any slop (if any) out of hop unit £60 Prommy 6.03 barrel 375mm £0 Check for burrs, straightness, crown on delivery / get exchange if not 100% £16.50 SixG Super Nub (shameless) or £0 Bic nub £10 Prommy red bucking £0 Check bucking for any molding marks on BB contact areas, smooth if req'd GEARBOX £0 Check all airseals £0 Clean, deburr case interior £0 Smooth gearcase piston rails £0 Radius gearcase £0 Check shimming £20 Prommy type B cylinder £10 SP120 spring £0 Grease appropriately ELECTRICS £5 Fit 14awg wiring if not STD £30 Basic MOSFET without braking £20 High C rated LiPo BODY / EXTERNALS £0 Pay attention to the alignment of the hop unit with the gearbox / nozzle, making sure it is square / inline on all planes / axis. £0 Check the hop unit is fully seated back into the gearbox and it cannot move forwards / away. £0 Check nozzle to bucking airseal. £0 Check barrel bolts up square to reciever/gearbox £0 Check inner barrel does meet any resistance when inserted which would imply it being deviated from true / straight £0 Check inner barrel is lightly supported / centred at the end of the outer barrel to stop vibration, again make sure no resistance. With that barrel/cylinder volume, running heavy BBs extra sorbo shouldn't be neccersary. Be 440ish FPS, with 0.36s shoot very nice. Just call me @Sitting Duck 😁

A good barrel/bucking combo would be where I'd start - look into Rhopping perhaps. I personally wouldn't bother changing the hop unit unless it's knackered as it can introduce more problems than it resolves (feeding and the like), make sure it holds the hop as you've set it and shim it if necessary. Snakebitey's guide on reddit that @Lozart linked is a good read and would answer most questions really, and again like mentioned the thing you want most is consistency shot to shot.

Nice looking rifle! As far as mods go, you'll want to fit something around an M110/M120 spring depending on your local fields FPS limits and the quality of your airseal. You're looking for consistency so careful choice of components is probably more important than chasing FPS. I'd suggest a good quality hop rubber like the Maple Leaf 60degree macaron with an appropriate nub (Maple Leaf Omega ideally). The Specna hop units are actually OK, but if you want to upgrade then definitely look at the Maxx ME models. This is always worth a read https://www.reddit.com/r/airsoft/comments/5g58ia/holy_grail_dmr_guide_updated_for_20167/

For the full, out of the box MK12 look I'd say go for this one https://gunfire.com/en/products/sa-b16-one-tm-saec-tm-system-carbine-replica-black-1152210313.html The CYMA is....OK. It will need a load of bits ripped out and replaced to make a decent DMR (to be fair most guns will) but the cosmetics of that 072 annoy the shit out of me. If you want a MK12 it's the wrong rail, the wrong foresight, the wrong suppressor, the list goes on. If you want to go down the M16A4 route then the one you linked to originally would be the best bet as the M5 style rail is actually pretty easy to come by https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000156854455.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.43b47d66bKTPIL&algo_pvid=1af9c79e-8326-42f8-a87b-9ff02ffe50c1&algo_expid=1af9c79e-8326-42f8-a87b-9ff02ffe50c1-34&btsid=0be3769015894464979183017e9d8a&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ (or it's on Amazon for about £70 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Airsoft-Shooting-Aluminum-Handguard-Classic-Army/dp/B07L9V9F9X Actually, if you like the rail from the CYMA 072 I have one I don't need. You'd need the right gas block with the flip up front sight but they're quite cheap. Just FYI the actual rail in your pic in the first post is a BCM QRF, available from Evike for more than your base gun costs! https://www.evike.com/products/13577/

I've found the best AR base for a DMR is the G&P. The tapered fitting for the outer barrel is way more solid than the standard fitting, the gearbox is a really solid and well built upgrade base and depending on which generation receiver you get it has an adjuster to set the alignment of the gearbox instead of using shims. G&Ps also have really good quality externals

I've got the Classic Army P90 TR and it shoots very well for such a small package. (I changed the mock suppressor for something a bit smaller) Its true the hicap mags are the let down for this system. The TM mags probably work better but duno I use the STANAG converter but with short mags which I think looks good, performs brilliantly and holds 1500 BBs

Yeah the M5 is always a pricey bit of kit - you would be better off getting that CYMA 072 and installing an old school front sight post - they are usually dead cheap n all. Depending on how much barrel there is under that suppressor, you might need a 20" outer barrel too though. Btw TG actually have the 072 for quite a bit less: https://www.taiwangun.com/en/electric/cm-072-cyma-2?from=listing&campaign-id=19 Edit* https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qsyXxc40xZk If you check this out here from time stamp 1:45 you'll see it does appear to be a normalish 20" barrel, however there is a QD lug/bolt up against the gas block, I would imagine it is removable, however it's hard to be sure.

This might be a good alternative to a standard M16A4 w/ M5 RAS: https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/cyma-cm-072-mk12-spr-mod-1-custom-w-full-stock The flip up front sight always makes sense on a DMR (or even just a little bare gas block). Or maybe this: https://www.airsoftguns-europe.com/mk12-spr-mod-0-18-inch-black-cyma-cm-071 I quite like the Mod 0 rounded front set - though the M5 style is definitely more practical. The stock on that looks a bit odd though.

I don’t actually. Was told it was a cyma ak. I googled the closest looking one. Could have just messaged me rather than being a keyboard warrior. None the less thanks for letting me know. post has been updated ✌️😂

Another bit of Australian kit... This arrived today after 2 years of hunting for one.. it's super rare. Navy issue combat shirt, issued only to boarding teams and clearance divers.

Someone who doesn't know the difference between a metal CYMA CM.045 (AKS-74U) and a plastic CM.521C (Beta Spetsnaz)