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Super happy snagged what's for me is a holy grail item. Full Gb-tech mk12 mod0 kit + ARMS scope rings and qd bipod adaptor.

Finally got some 11.1s to fit the AK... FROM FRANCE! Worldwide supply/stock is shocking ATM. Shortened the leads, cloth taped for better abrasion resistance, and some cheeky connector numbering with the iron.

Replacing my cheapo ASG Balance charger with a recognised good 'un, the SkyRC T100, because my Titan battery decided to die on me. Not sure if I had a short in my AK, but it blew the internal fuse. I've got a replacement coming under warranty and I might as well charge it up on a better charger from the off. Bought the Deans cable and a couple of balance charger extender leads too.

Hydrate and stay hydrated, stretch your muscles as much as you can before you start playing. I think generally having a daily level of activity in your life so that a day's airsofting isn't such a shock to the body is the best way to avoid a lot of aches and pains.

Went into shop today to buy some 0.48's for my mate...and a few little bits for myself. (3000mAh 7.4 Titan, couple of flashmags, some BB's for myself) Ended walking out with this as well..... Bugger! (Added on Trijicon & real M4 stock when I got home - Now to clean the barrel & Flathop it) E&C (This will get a couple of skirmishes, then be painted up and mounted on a Plaque)

I've made some 'painting' It's definitely a step up from the crayons I usually have to eat play with, really rather fun! I smudged a bit around the mag well (on the other side), and maybe there's a couple of other areas that need a bit of re-toning and some texture from the scrim added in, but as my first attempt it was a good learning experience. All done with Halfords paint (black/khaki/green/brown) as it was easy to grab them on my travels. Still want a muted red and a near-white to add some extra highlights.

Fills should come from: A maintained professional compressor, costing thousands, and run steadily A pre filled scuba cylinder - filled from a maintained professional compressor A stirrup pump at home If you live in deepest Canada, playing the odd game in your remote woods then perhaps consider a dual system of a workshop compressor and a discontinued Tom Kaye shoebox booster compressor. Run it on a stop start basis over a day or longer A compressor costing a few hundred should not be ‘thrashed’ daily How warm were your cylinders when they were filled? What pressure were they filled to, and how much did they drop when cooled back down? A professional compressor is best used in a cascade manner into a substantial holding cylinder, players cylinders drawing from the master and the compressor kicking in to top up the master See here for the UKPSF basic air safety HPA1 sheet https://m.facebook.com/nt/screen/?params={"note_id"%3A796094531191401}&path=%2Fnotes%2Fnote%2F&_rdr

Truly shameless self promotion alert - also aimed very much at the military so forewarning if you're not in to kit that's way OTT for airsoft. If I may I'd like to present the Ammo Hub A1, a supremely modular placard that at the core level is designed to be the foundational basis for carrying your primary mags either on the front of a PC or built up to a chest rig. I get that from the picture that it really doesn't look like much, but please believe me when I say the design is done in such a way that there are 10s of thousands of potential setups you can build and the aftermarket integration features of the placard are done such that the interfaces are super sleek and tucked away - mostly they comprise of slots and various velcro areas. It takes any mag insert with hook velcro on both sides like Spiritus and HSP so it'll work for ARs, AKs and all SMGs just like the other micro rigs many of you will be familiar with. I'm not currently aware of a PC with placard integration on the front that this cannot attach to. It can take different top and side attachment buckle options as well as any PALS pouches on the front, sides and base and Tubes compatible dangler pouches/sub loads. It can be stacked on top of itself or mounted side by side with itself if you buy 2 and want that capacity and capability. Any back strap or harness that uses industry standard 1" buckles can be attached but the side attachment loops can be tucked away entirely when used on a PC. If you have a cummerbund that includes FS Tubes it can clip in directly to the placard rather than the front plate bag for maximum security (extra Tubes purchase req'd); but if that doesn't apply for your PC there's also a way to strap the bottom of the placard to the bottom of the plate bag. Because of its' size it can be slightly curved even with 3 AR mags stored and it will stick to your PC/chest rig base better than most other similar products. The Ammo Hub is very very light and kept slim by the use of FirstSpear's specific 6/12 cordura/loop velcro laminate fabric while still being made to meet or exceed the specs required for military applications in terms of strength and durability of both materials and stitching. The hub is shown here mounted to the front of an FS Plate Carrier with 3 EMAGs stowed inside: The first small batch will only be in MC and will available around late feb/early march. There's are no 2 ways about it though, it will be expensive. You're looking at something roughly in the region of $60-70 (exact details TBC) for the basic setup with just top attachment buckles and you'll then need an insert of your choosing to retain mags, but I'd imagine a lot of interested folks will already own compatible ones. At least at first they'll only be available from FS in the states but of course I'll work with shops like Tactical-Kit to bring it to the UK if the desire is there and the opportunity arises. If there's desire in the market then more colours will be shortly forthcoming and I have lots of ideas for my own harnesses/back straps and expander wings etc to compliment the wide variety already available out there that are compatible from the likes of Ferro, Spiritus and Haley. NB - There is actually room for 5 x SMG mags like MP5 and ARP9. I'll be gradually talking about and showing all the many features in depth and close up over the coming weeks on my business IG/FB page so feel free to follow if you'd like to know more: https://www.instagram.com/f9gear_/ https://www.facebook.com/F9-Gear-105213495349920

Thats pretty good. I find the Halford camo paints are nice and matt without being dusty. Quite hard wearing too IMO

Finally got where it wants to be I think. Custom rail and folding stock, pts stock and grip red light and tracer in the suppressor. Padded 5.11 sling and magpul 7.62 pulls

Very happy hippy. That is sexy af mate.

I never use red gas in my pistols, but mine are basically all TMs. They still function on green in winter and if I put red gas in them I'd be scared that they would explode (TMs are designed to use 144a, but green gas in winter works because it's so cold). When it's really cold I just switch to the mp7 AEP or the mk23, as AEPs and non-blowback works all year round. With most pistols, especially the heavier metal-slide pistols, you need red gas during winter because it just doesn't work otherwise. However, as has been said, make sure you switch back to lower power gas when the weather heats up or you'll damage the pistol. I run my AAP on green gas even when it's around 10 degrees celcius and it works no problem, but any colder and it struggles.

Yeah, its the common problem for all gas operated weapons. In cold weather the gas does not expand as vigorously so loses power. Therefore Red gas is recommended for Winter use as its compressed to a higher pressure in the bottle. But do not use it when the temperature warms up as it will be over powered for use in games and possibly damage components.

I can't help with your specific question I'm afraid. However I have bought from them a few times and can tell you that the vast majority of negative feedback they receive is because if you annoy them, they will literally tell you to fuck off. Usually nothing to do with the items they stock.

Though the video you posted states the fact that the ‘new rules’ are exactly how people should be driving anyway Don’t run over pedestrians Don’t crash into the vehicle in front Don’t make any manouvre that relies on the actions/inactions of others Drive defensively, pay attention and exercise hazard perception

TechT gunsav for air seals - out of stock everywhere, let me know if you find some! And Parker Hale gun oil for metal on metal / trigger pack / charging handle / buffer spring. If you have HSB you’ll have Moly grease on your buffer spring.

Erk, no, I mean, if you have another complete V2 gearbox to swap in, I'd try that, not moving parts around. At this point it seems like you'll want to binary-chop the issues down rather than introducing new variables. That said... One piece of voodoo that (maybe) helped me with an inconsistent feed issue was putting a detent into the top of the hop chamber. Take a 6mm drill bit, put it straight up the feed tube, and very carefully create a small relief in the top of the chamber. With a plastic chamber, I did it by hand, with light pressure and a few turns. Just enough to create a shallow dome that the BBs can key into and feel safe and loved rather than finding themselves unsure where to go. I'm unclear on the science (if any) behind it, but after doing that, my feeding problems went away. Although with it being airsoft, its just as likely that they were sorted by sheer fluke by yet another disassemble-reassemble.

Are you using Mid caps filled to the brim when testing? As this does sound like midcap syndrome

Some shady guy.

Issue 1 is not really a problem and will probably be non existent once you put the heavier spring in. It really helps with trigger response without paying for a pre cocking mosfet if you want to look at it that way! Issue 2, as above. You need to put it in the receiver and install the stock tube.

Picked this up today. 6+1 shooter. Bet General Custer wished he'd had one...

so issue number 1 is very common, and not really an issue per-say. essentially the motor and geartrain still has momentum when the cutoff lever trips and will roll round until stopped. it's basically free precocking, as all precocking does is intentionally run the motor a little longer so it stops near the end of travel. a mosfet with active braking will remedy this (although sometimes can go too far and stop the system too quickly giving lockups on semi), a better solution would be a mosfet with precocking which will let you intentionally control where the box stops. issue number 2 i'd say is happening because you're testing it outside of the reciever (going by the picture), assuming this is going to an ar derivative (the sr-15 in your profile) then when you put the gearbox into the reciever and bolt on the buffer tube/stock, the bolt that threads into the back of the box will go into the spring guide and hold it tight to the back of the box, stopping it from tilting.

Perhaps I should a) Let someone else do the Taiwangun thang and report back and more importantly b) Try the new guns I've just bought in a skirmish for the first time, before trying to buy another one (and risking my marriage)

I never found the red useful . If I had something that was lackluster on green I go straight to black gas. Is quite rubbish that with that little bolt on the aap is not more efficient/weather proof.

Any gas will be fine just buy whatever you can get for the best price.

Yes, I've just done it with my 308. It foes require some cutting and additional/alternate parts, shot me a pm or make a new thread it's not a quick question thing.

Best to e-mail them about 3am 😄

That’s the stuff 👍 Do the deliver to the UK?

Is this it - In stock here but it’s a French site €9.00 so not sure it import charges

Pretty much complete, my basically scratch-built custom gun, the Orion: I'm getting a titan and dremelling the GB to fit it in there so I can get it over 35 RPS.

Had a dig around my assorted kit and rejigged my belt kit to incorporate an assault pack attached to a back panel so I can now use my large HPA tank with my m21 (small tank was fine, but now I can shoulder transfer and have no worries of running out of air). VSR still uses small tank, as I had a very active day last week and still had about 1k psi left in the tank, but the m21 had a tendency to almost run dry on a quieter day due to higher number of shots. On an active day, I could see me running out, and I did run out many times during AI500 last year and had to quickly pump up the tank. Redid one of my chest rigs to use with the m21 as well, so I can carry 5 mags (350 BBs) plus a BB bag and speed loader in a utility pouch for those more active days. Also added 4 more pistol mag pouches to the rig in case I run the m21, a pistol (with 4 spare mags on the belt) and my mp5k on a sling with 4 spare mags on the chest rig. Won't be properly field testing it until spring and the foliage at my local site thickens up because at the moment I'm having way too much fun with my VSR and the open sight lines.

Like the other voices here, I am showing the signs of joyful abuse of the body over the years. Multiple reconstruction surguies has taught me there is no substitute for continuous conditioning. I started, many moons ago, using a program called romwod, range of movement worked on daily, it's an Internet based video program of daily stretches and holds for strength and conditioning and its been great. It instantly helped me and I find it easier to fit in than classes, gym, etc. On days where I know I'm going to pushing it activity wise I use compression garments, company called skin makes the ones I like. And a recovery paste made by climbon (It amazing but not the cheapest). Like you i dont want to give up what I enjoy for age.

I’ve never had a problem with milspec… used them for years n years.

AGot a few stickers for my case, because why not. And a couple of patches because who doesn't like a bit of attempted self-aggrandising? Lol

I haven't had problems with it yet myself, but have heard from my Dad that cutting down on dairy products can help.

I use to work for them, weekend he will be busy but I'm sure you will hear monday at some point , if you have any problems let me know and I will try and chase it up for you.

HPA is perfectly safe as long as you are not a complete nobber and treat it with respect You need to do absolutely no maintenance to your cylinders If they are excessively filled the high pressure burst disk will fail, make a scary bang noise, and safely exhaust the air Just don’t have skin next to the burst disk, and if the cylinder is sat in a table then it will probably spin & bounce around - you don’t want the first thing it hits to be a fragile bone such as your skull Avoid this with steady fills and watch the gauge Ultimately a burst disk might fail due to the number of fills it has had cycling from low/no pressure to full pressure. The majority will last the entire lifetime of a cylinder. If the regulator fails and too much pressure is released then the low pressure burst disk will will fail, make a scary bang noise, and safely exhaust the air As above but a lower pressure and it lasts longer. Minimise this by fitting a full nipple cover to avoid dirt on the nipple. If you have no nipple cover then dirt will get onto the nipple, a sensible person will rub that off, but there will still be residue which gets blown into the cylinder on the next fill, then gets into the regulator. If it builds up over time then ‘performance’ is effected and a failure may occur - it becomes inefficient and doesn’t refresh quickly or it allows higher pressure through and the burst disk saves you Burst disks are your air fuses. The high pressure burst disk is your mains trip/fuse cabinet, the low pressure burst disk is your plug fuse Don’t ‘self service’ your cylinder and don’t lubricate it You cannot overfill a cylinder and make it explode (unless you try very hard and replace the burst disks with solid bolts) A flash fill failure is a very rare incident, I’m not aware of any for probably 15+ years (at least in the UK, Europe & US) There were two back in the day, one at a site in Southampton and one at a European event. At least one involved a specific type of cylinder which had a very thin lightweight design, and only had a maximum 5 year life. This was not the cause of failure, but faith was lost and it’s manufacture was ceased Other very lightweight designs have since been manufactured They all must be manufactured and tested to the same standards The combination of caused of these failures were: 1) oil contamination In the UK case it was established that the user had not contaminated their cylinder with oil It was found that the oil contamination was due to someone else’s cylinder filled some point earlier 2) high speed fills The filling was of 4500psi cylinders, but at unregulated speeds Any filling generates heat, but the combination of oil, very high pressure, very fast filling generated a lot of heat very quickly and turned the cylinder into a Diesel engine - flash fill failure / flash fill explosion To avoid these: Don’t use oil on the high pressure end Even better don’t use any lube on your cylinder - if the cylinders regulator ever needs work then refer to a professional (But at the price of 3000psi aluminium cylinders just buy a new one) Don’t use unregulated fill systems Use the right fill pressure system - 3000psi / 206bar (I’ll tell you something about scuba later) Fill slowly, ideally top up often If filling a lot (eg from low or empty) then start to fill for a short while holding the cylinder, stop, wait a moment, if it has got noticeably warmer then stop for longer and fill in shorter bursts Don’t use a full system without first familiarising with it - get shown how to fill by a competent person The tournament paintball community learned these lessons when the flash fill incidents occurred. The UKs scenario paintball community adopted them among event standards a few years later, including UKPSF air safety briefs before players would be permitted to self fill (an air pass would be handed out valid for a year) I discovered that the tournament community forgot those lessons, and was relearning them again (luckily the sites / events maintained regulated fills) Stirrup pumps take a lot of pumps to fill. I’ve got one, but I’ve never done enough for a fill. I’m a team captain and I have peasants to do the hard stuff (However the stirrup isn’t intended for filling, only for a level of top up if ever required when away from a proper fill source) Normally my advice is to fill a little bit and often - don’t let the cylinder drop far down, then top up to 3000psi With a stirrup this is still valid advice - BUT the first strokes of the pump don’t put anything into your cylinder, they only bring the hose up to pressure until it matches the cylinders current pressure and opens the fill nipple valve. Then subsequent pumps go to wider area of the cylinder and hose and begin to fill. The more you drain the cylinder first, the quicker you actually pump air into it - but then need more strokes to get to your desired pressure If you’re doing a quick top up between games then there is the danger that in a short time all you manage to do is pressurise the hose, then run out of time before you get any air transferred If you start from practically empty then you quickly get some pressure in, but have to get in enough to play With a stirrup use slow, steady, firm pumps - all the way from top to bottom Scuba cylinders are a good option - but if you have 3000psi in your scuba and fill your playing cylinders you won’t get 3000psi - you’ll get a fraction less as they equalise Then on your next fill the scuba is starting below 3000psi, so you get even less and gradually the maximum you can get drops So avoid filling your filling cylinders to 3000psi, go for something like 2800psi and then don’t let it drop too far - fill straight away (You are then taking as little as possible from the scuba each time - and of course do it slowly) If you get a 4500psi/300bar scuba it costs more, but you have much more spare capacity before it drops But this brings the ‘danger’ of a 4500psi scuba source filling a 3000psi playing cylinder You could buy a regulated fill rig set to output 3000psi - at extra expense Or you control the flow, monitor all gauges and only fill the playing cylinder to 3000psi (or less) High pressure air is very safe when treated with respect

I can't remember reflex sights that long ago. Must have been out of my price range (most things were). The third style of red dot that Snuff asks about are not great in low light unless you go silly money. The coating on the lens cuts some parts of the light spectrum in order to work clearly. This apparently is what makes them give poor light transmission. Sorry for the poor tech explanation, but it was explained to me by someone who clearly overestimated my knowledge of physics. I had a Hawke one that was crap past dusk even with a Ledray 6.

Its started off with La Poste with the tracking number , but was quickly changed to Parcelforce as soon as it was collected from the store which I’m quite happy with as I’ve never had an issue with PF Also the PF tracking is quite detailed Its now moving through sorting offices and the message on the tracking system regarding possible Customs charges has vanished! 🤞

You could try a work around/test by binding the base of the spring in the mid caps. Compression a few coils and the wire them together, you'll loose some capacity but find a coil count that works for your need feeding pressure and then cut raw springs to that number of coils.

Try some o rings to space the hop unit against the gearbox, not too many though as you dont want to put too much load on the hop

Having carefully read everything that you've written and tried, then I'd concur that it's either the chrono, or you should accept that it's time to live the life potato. Honestly, you've ruled out everything that I can think of, short of swapping in another complete gearbox to see on which side of the nozzle the problem lies.

Few pics from last sunday at Camp Sparta.

When you want all the trademarks. TM NGRS Delta with essentially the full KOA package. I basically took their build list and send it to my tech for a good bit less. Still instantly became one of my most expensive guns.

I hear they chuck you out once you reach 18...

£225 with no furniture AND its broken? Where do I sign?

Well, it took until v7 for all the various issues to be ironed out, but my ICS Galil Midcaps are done for now. They are designed to use PTS EPM springs and followers, as well as 5 M3x14 bolts, 5 M3x0.5 square nuts, the bottom screw and square nut from the high cap, and the spring/retainer arm from the high cap. This particular one holds 104 BBs. I will do a feeding test once I get my Galil back from the shop - should be at least two weeks. To be honest the surplus of bolts is a bit overkill and technically none are needed - the metal high cap shell provides plenty of compression strength and the sole bottom bolt/nut would technically hold the insert in place, but I have like 300 random M3 bolts and nuts from other projects, and this way mag insterts can be kept in one piece outside of the shell, for shipping or should a user ever want to switch back to a highcap.

I've been after a super blackhawk for a while and finally got one at a none ridiculous price.

4 downloads so far, so at least you're not alone