Tommikka

The key problem is not the weight of safes, but ensuring they are stable (strapped to the trolley / dolly), and that you have good grip / control When moving the safe upright on a trolley you need balance to ensure the weight is going down the trolley to its wheels and not onto you holding the trolley up. With the triple sets of stair wheels you aren’t wheeling the trolley up the full set of stairs but are wheeling the corner point of each step - in theory this is then a series of single steps, therefore you’re pulling the safe up one step at a time. https://youtube.com/shorts/-PzRd6VhI_4?si=d0OuHmzCJaFsTfRi I would prefer it to be two people, one ‘controling’ from the top of the trolley, and ideally not holding two vertical handles but with a cross bar (so that their grip isn’t around a vertical which can slip) and the second acting as a brace below with some push. Powered ones would be ‘better’ in theory but the power element is in the moving - ideally you aren’t taking the weight in the movement so to a degree that’s laziness The best feature of these types is the rubber track, which also comes in evacuation trolleys The ‘tracks’ are there to span across all of the steps, but with their grip they prevent the load from running away from you. (I hope that I don’t need to tell anyone not to use an evacuation chair to move a safe !!!) A decent trolley with the tracked feature would be good, but a solid multi wheeled stair trolley will do the job Just remember to think before each movement - is it steady, secure etc and are you in control?

I see a red door and I want to paint it black

Tour of duty of course

It does of course depend on the point. If the point is a brief routine view of general standards then it achieves the goal. Basic levels of cleanliness and safety go together, if you can’t sort that out with 24 hours notice then you’re the true problem. A targeted visit could be different, so the life tip of ‘don’t be a dick’ always helps. If you aren’t a dick and don’t do stupid things then they won’t have anything in particular to be looking closely for

As Colin has said - 99% chance of this being a no, and would get you into trouble. Contact the local society for their advice The norm is that it’s not allowed in halls Societies will have access to storage, but it will vary between Universities. I am aware that in the past Southampton University went through this for their members. Resident members in halls were not permitted to keep RIFs, members in shared houses could and ‘key’ members of the society stored other members RIFs - but that meant that they became responsible for them and had issues when particular members weren’t attended an event. The society had storage via the Student Union, but it was as caged areas in store rooms - and one cage would be shared between two societies. Your specific society will be able to tell you what their arrangements are For something to physically store them in, the best is a hard case & a lock or a padlock. A non gun case is more anonymous for general transporting. The circumstances of your transportation can also vary - your own car, a bus, walking down the street etc

Joule creep is the answer that just keeps on telling us that the ‘standard’ airsoft practice of chronographing with specific BBs is not fit for purpose. In an ideal world everyone chronographs using the BBs that they play with, against a chronograph that can report joules in line with the BB in use or at least in line with a chart / information for chrono staff to cross reference the appropriate velocity. Either that or set your ‘specific BB’ chrono limit that accounts for creep against actual BBs in play

I didn’t say that UKARA is the only valid airsoft defence - it’s the most common recognised defence, but other valid ones can and do exist. (You may note that I also said ‘UKARA etc’) JustCos certainly isn’t, and the ‘operators’ of JustCos also know that it isn’t.

The defences in legislation are: museums theatrical film/TV production historical re-enactment in the service of the crown The legislation goes into further details on the requirements Airsoft skirmishing is an additional defence, not part of the core legislation https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/2006/38/section/37 Cosplay is not a defence, however ‘professional cosplay’ in certain circumstances can fall into theatrical After many years of wondering what JustCos actually provides I purchased JustCos membership to see the insurance policy (and still was not provided with the policy) after another forum member used JustCos as a route to buy a RIF - they had to provide a photo of them playing airsoft for the retailer to accept the sale (therefore the retailer ‘accepting’ JustCos doesn’t actually accept the ‘defence’) (I was eventually refunded and my JustCos membership cancelled because I was ‘too stupid’ to understand what JustCos actually was UKARA etc are not specified defences, but are a route in which retailers can justifiably document a buyers defence. Any retailer can accept whatever they like, one even had a tick box for buyers to state that they intended to play airsoft skirmishing Certain retailers are only paying lip service and just want the sales

Theres a recent video on additional head protection and his preference is a shemagh Make sure that you don’t end up making a hotter head with obstructed airflow. A common problem with using shemaghs as a neck scarf is the resultant blocking/reduction of airflow of players hot breath - and blaming the goggles Lightly cover the areas that you’re having issues with

The Dye i family are what I would classify as ‘premium’ goggles, with the SE, and MI7 being basic level goggles. I started with VForce armour, which are the equivalent of the SE & MI7, and then went to the i3 as a premium. They all fulfil the key requirement of eye & face protection, and when accompanied with a dual pane lens they all do the same job. What matters next is fit and air flow. Fit is dependant on your head Air flow is dependant on a few factors, with the pattern of holes, spacing around your mouth etc and the i4s give lots of air flow by not covering so much of your head Premiums come with better ‘quality’ and will lead on new design (which if novel may not necessarily be better) but budget goggles can catch up on design changes A key difference is the main goggle material, with the basics coming in hard plastic and premiums rubberised. Rubber is more flexible on your head, and if you’re leaning into your gun can give way against the stock etc When I went to the i3 I kept my basic VForce for loans and occasional use, (until they never came back from long term loan) I considered the i4 but I have a big head with the i3 exposing a lot of forehead already, and just about a bit of chin cover. A team mate tried on the i4s in front of me - the amount of head exposure he had told me they wouldn’t touch any of my head. I bought MI7s for a particular colour scheme, and found them a comfortable fit to my head. My preferred goggles are VForce grills, they’re in my premium category, fit my head well, and until Grills 2 came out had been pretty much unchanged for many years due to popularity other than design colours and ‘special’ editions (this actually meant that last seasons fashion suddenly dropped in price) Ive about 4 or 5 sets of Grills, a thing that can happen is that when you come to buying a new lens, and thinking about goggle straps it’s not much more to buy a set of goggles. There is a little difference between the i4 & i5, and a comparison here https://youtu.be/E3tCYKjtZIM?si=xbd1Z3rRvH6SBiAK

It is, and represents the wooded areas The zones still in use may be in more of a square, (and possibly the larger of the woods contains the normal zones) It sounds like the same whiteboard map is still going, and probably wiped away a few times since then For a fuller large scenario we would like to open up into more of a sites. With Ambush having been in the game for many years there were ‘abandoned’ zones which we would have brought into featured points and they will also have shut down & rebuilt new areas since. Parts of the site are prone to flooding so would be available or unavailable at times of the year

DEVGRU, AKA SEAL team 6 Mask or remove moving parts, lightly spray in layers, and make some rough patterns. Avoid too fancy factory type professional camouflage prints and go for a field expedient look … Like this …. https://youtu.be/wAeSKtluE-c?si=YozfS8ntxNmoPQlx

…. Did it look anything like this? When we ran events there, circa 2010, they had a faded whiteboard up with a rough sketch. I can’t remember if we put together the map or they gave us an existing source to overlay ours onto. We produced a giant ‘bare’ poster board edition to overlay event specifics in the safe zone briefs. It should still be in my garage, hung from the ceiling acting as a shelf for tents - but the prints probably disintegrated/rubbed off over the years I like site maps, as a descendant of a dodgy ‘ship wrecked’ Norwegian I have no sense of direction and rely on map/site feature recognition ….. and at Camouflage Bournemouth during pre event setup I lost half the objective props for a while - I had stacked them on top of a hill whilst taking them a couple at a time to set up, and couldn’t find my way back to the hill. So I geotagged every location at Ambush.

Personal preferences do apply, but I agree Real life painted weapons are at that level of ‘standard’ It’s to perform a function in the field

I would avoid soaking in chemicals etc Back in the olden days I decided to ‘unpaint’ model figures to redo them, I tested out acetone successfully, then popped some in to soak, and after leaving for not very long I returned to discover highly disfigured figures melting into mush Keep it simple, test out as others have posted above and stick to rubbing away on the individual pieces