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I sat down for tea with a fellow airsofter, who just like me, has been inactive for a long time. I've recently posted a few threads about DMR builds, and I also spoke to him about it, to which he responded with surprise when I said I was planning an SR25 build. He asked why I didn't buy something more vintage looking (Which I often spoke of back on the field) looking and I explained to him that I originally wanted to but I don't like faux wood stocks so there was nothing to build it out of. Then this absolute madman just gets up, goes to his closet and takes out a CYMA M14 with a real wood stock, puts it in my hands and tells me to take it with me. This might be one of the most welcome surprises of my life, and with his help I am now converting the M14 to a Vietnam War style M21 Sniper System. Here is a concept art. The idea is to add a scope mount, refinish the stock, and move the front sling mount an inch towards the rear to make space for a Harris bipod. A Vietnam Era M21 would not have had a Harris bipod or a Leupold scope replica, However to me, important parts for shooting comfort is a sunshade and bipod, so perhaps this is a replica of a reissued M21. Gearbox will be shimmed and upgraded to shoot at around 425 FPS. I might semi-lock it aswell.

still sticking with the lightweight load outs so much less hassle

Yes. FA 5 (2A) criminalises both manufacture, and also possession with intent to sell - and it doesn't say to whom. https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1968/27/section/5 I've "kindly" let them know. Honest to God, cluelessness like this from airsoft professionals seems like a bigger threat to us than chavs and neds larking around with RIFs. If the very people who should be trusted to know and follow the specific exemption that we got aren't doing so, that's a strong argument for removing it.

I was trying to buy smallest possible torch with integrated grip to use on pistols. I found one made by UTG but nowhere to buy anythere outside US. So I decided to make my own. The hardest part was to find smallest possible torch with instant on light and highest possible lumens. The one I got is a size of AA battery and has real output of 650 lumens. Not bad for such tiny EDC torch. Next step was easy with bit of help from thingiverse and my limited cad skills I manage to produce this it's tiny c.8x6cm!! tested on the game day and was better than expected perfect pistol torch with grip

Agreed, after even a couple of days without light, regular exercise I start to get a bit creaky. Use it or lose it.

Had no problems before covid came but now so unfit. I have built a HPA kythera DMR and plan on using that at Wycombe but Saturday is Sentinel so Polarstar at 350 with Krytac as backup and for the indoor part. Do or die or you could say use it or loose it. I always said it not the age but the mileage. My knees are shot after a life of plumbing and pipe fitting

I've been using this self adhesive neoprene foam strip for padding https://amzn.to/3kJpSR4

Nah, that'll deflect breath upwards into the goggl- ohhhh, right.

My VFC Flashlight handguard finally showed up this morning after a month long wait from Bunny workshop Not quite as drop in fit as I heard it was but only a small issue which can be easily solved, the pin doesn't quite push through so I will take a Dremel and just enlarge that hole ever so slightly I am also going to try and take away the 2 lines of plastic inside the handguard to try and increase the battery space so I will let you know how that goes

Funnily enough I always find that running about and getting some exercise actually helps the aches and pains but I think that's more down to the "why's" of my aches and pains!

Fixed that for ya 😁

Nah I'm just an idiot 😁 I meant polycarbonate. Interesting that there's other model out there. I've only seen the ess fan goggle copy called "fma goggles", and the ones I have get dented by my high cycle.

GPWM. Tempted to say it's his own fault for buying into the hype. You can get MOLLE adaptors for them. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fobus-Molle-Platform-Chest-Rig-Mounting-Rotating-Holster-MOLLE-/201641120585?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=Cj0KCQiAys2MBhDOARIsAFf1D1cnhwUTZ4NUPfSnl2aRD-lTKUndNz09MGLCcQg47zgBgwtYdoOQB_IaAmmCEALw_wcB @occidioThis would work: https://deadlycustoms.co.uk/product-category/kydex-pistol-holsters/dc5-series-kydex-holsters/

He’s selling two guns that together barely break a grand new yet the ONLY justification he gives for asking three grand is “both fully upgraded” that’s it ! 😳

Gotta be the “Mac of The Year” advert Nice one to close 2021 off 😆😂

hammer time

Note that the idea of writing cheques is not something The Youth Of Today really understand 🤣🤣🤣

Is the second picture him using it to try and rob an airsoft shop? "I can let you have it for £1500, today, mate, cash only deal. Yeah, fUlLy UpGrAdEd, mate."

It's taken me a long time to realise but as the great @Rogerborgonce said, all Airsoft guns do the same thing. Some a bit more reliably, some a bit quicker or a bit further but most just fine.

You'll need to semi-lock it if you do that, however it's super easy to semi-lock an m14. You can just unscrew part of the fire selector (which is super accessible) and detach it after you put it in semi-auto, so you don't need to clip anything or file anything, so if you later down the line decide you want to go 1.14J and full-auto, you can re-attach it no problem. I accidentally found that out when I snapped the fire-selector on mine. It was a super useful breakage

I don't think that's what they're doing as they don't have either in stock, It was probably just a tip.

Got my skittles dump pouch at last;

From my very quick look in game, i assume this is what has happened to mine.

We're - respectfully, based on the examples that we have to hand - disagreeing. The TB-FMA example that I have seems fine, and I'm happy with the lens thickness and the protection offered. I've been point-blanked in these over and over with no concerns. My issue is that the fan is inadequate running off of the suggested 1.5V AA, and I put a lot more push behind it.

ahhh okay, doesn't sound good.... well thanks for the info anyway 👍

I'm not sure if this is better or worse than my recent nuprol purchase that was bone dry inside the gearbox. I will always advocate for people learning at least the basic "teching" skills. Why spend a couple of days airsofting money and waiting for a few weeks when you could spend an hour doing your own basic service?

Yeah, of course that's standard practice for racing cars. Not so much for popping to Tesco 😆

I am 67 and planning to play this Saturday but I am righting checks my body is finding hard to cash

A metal turner could get that concentric again. Depending on tolerance, I've known panel beaters who could use a dolly and hammer to get it visually 'good enough.' Steal is a lot ore fluid than people imagine.

I've a Delta Mike. I found it too tight for comfort if done up enough not to drop down. Heroshark is the true path here though. Octagonal mesh literally lets you see the light.

2-3 years ago I've played with a guy who was then 69.

Kudos to TM for even admitting to it, although I wouldn't expect too much from UK retailers.

It'd still be nice for it to not fire when you inserted the mag. Although we shouldn't even be relying on not "flagging" people. If you don't want to shoot someone who isn't wearing eye pro, make sure mags are out and chambers are clear. If you want to at least make a concentrated effort not to shoot a team mate, trigger discipline n' all that... Also confusingly the pic is of a Gen.3 🤔

I'm guessing you've not seen the inside of a Cyma or JG recently then? For reference this is a JG G3, tried it, wanted to fit a better motor as the rate of fire was woeful. When I saw the gobs of horrible brown shite all over the motor shaft when I took it out I decided to open the gearbox and was greeted with the enormous amount of sticky, nasty crap you see here:

The only guns I’ve had issues with are the ones that have been opened up and touched by ‘techs’. It could be a coincidence but me and my brother both bought our rifles on the same day about 5 years ago. My ASG M4 has never given me a problem ever. His G&G Mk18 was in and out to the local tech after it was ‘serviced’. Both I would consider to be reputable brands that aren’t known to have inherent issues. So would I give a brand new, or even error-free gun to a tech just to service? Nope and I’d probably advise others against it too.

When it stops being fun ! Simples

The consideration is the site's duty of care to its customers and staff - insurance is to cover them when things go wrong with that. Duties of care tend to be implicit, and only get clarified when things go badly wrong (Vowles versus the WRU being a crucial case). I've frequently opined that sites should stop wasting their time with those ridiculous and unenforceable waivers that they make us sign, and use the paper to list what they think that their, and our, duties of care are. They could also try to require a minimum amount of health or mobility. But most conditions that come with age can also effect younger people with illnesses or disabilities. In either case, age or disability are protected characteristics under the Equalities Act 2010, which requires service providers to make reasonable adjustments to accommodate those conditions, rather than prohibiting people with them from attending. The definition of "reasonable" is wonderfully vague. Just for one example, would it be reasonable to prohibit hearing impaired players because they can't hear critical safety instructions (including man down, cease fire, and fire alarms)? Or would the adjustment be ensuring that a deaf player is always accompanied by a hearing helper? Even if that means dedicating a marshal to it? That's a big can of very squirmy worms right there.

I use Ant Supplies all the time. They are so cheap that I actually have a stock of bits to stick on future rifs.

Hi All. So we did it and survived. Had a great day and loved Strikeforce Gloucester. Paintball masks, jeans and hoodies it was. Few hits marks, but fully enjoyed it. Pat.

My lovely airsoft relic is now mostly done. I'll do some fine tuning when I've got access to the range at my local site, but I'm really happy with this. Don't see many of these around these days, much less with a real-steel Remington m700 wooden stock. Now I have the perfect bad-guy sniper rifle for filmsim events as I can dress up as a civilian dissident with a sporting rifle now. Only thing I need to get now is a leather rifle sling to finish that sporting rifle vibe.

Except you can't, because the Magnus effect in the case of airsoft BB's provides lift. It also produces increased turbulence in the BB's wake which contributes to drag which affects the terminal energy. Axial spin in rifled barrels increases range by the conservation of angular momentum which is a whole different kettle of ballistic fish.

I had to throw on my non airsoft North face jacket as the rain was really dropping. Ended up tearing a sleeve somehow so it's now joined my airsoft kit box.

I'm deliberately bumping this topic as it's still one of the top Google hits for "airsoft MP5K trigger pull" / "V3 trigger pull" and similar. Well, I put a bit of time into this. The 2-piece trigger is always going to be a problem, as there's loads of slack in it before the 2nd part even starts to move forwards. Then it has to move quite a long way back in order to reset the cut-off level. It was easy enough to pre-tension by gluing a strip of plastic to the top front of the main trigger to stop it moving fully forwards / upwards against the gearbox, but this then stopped the semi-auto reset. So eventually I hit on this pragmatic bodge: just stick pieces of cut up pencil eraser onto the trigger, which can be done with the gun fully assembled. A piece on the front pre-tensions it, and you can also put a piece on the back to limit rearward travel and give a shorter total pull. In both cases, hold the pieces in place while you work the trigger, and start with pieces that are too thick to allow triggering or resetting, then slowly pare them down until you get consisting fire-and-reset, and superglue in place. It's still not what you'd call a short pull, but you can improve the stock pull a fair bit with very little time and effort. If it starts acting up on game day, just rip the rubber out and you're back to stock. The pieces of white rubber are still unpainted here to make it clear what I've done - a dab of black will hide the bodge.