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Samurai

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Samurai last won the day on September 3 2017

Samurai had the most liked content!

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About Samurai

  • Rank
    AF-UK Addict
  • Birthday 02/07/1976

Profile Information

  • Guns
    It's never the gun!
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Aylesbury

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://printedairsoft.co.uk

Recent Profile Visitors

6,108 profile views
  1. Poor guy comes here to drop an ad and you fuckers start giving advice on running the business. ❤️
  2. If you really want a fuse and eager to solder, but not the gun, then why don't you just make a fuse extension between the battery and the gun? Just two deans connectors with a fuse between them.
  3. We should also install loudspeakers throughout the sites telling players to breathe in, breathe out on a loop...
  4. In an AEG the hopup rubber's mouth is keeping the second BB to enter the barrel. If it's worn or just too big, it will feed 2 BBs. Change the hopup rubber. You can test it: make sure the nozzle is retracted, drop a bb into the hopup - gun is upside down - and if it goes into the barrel only with gravity or a very gentle touch with something that fits there, then it's bad. It should need a small but noticeable force.
  5. Always good to be sneaky with a bolt action rifle.
  6. https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/ is where you will need to read and read more. As @Druid799 said, it needs a lot of experience to build a good sniper rifle. (I was an airsoft techie some years ago for AEGs and I trusted a sniper rifle expert to build mine.) A good sniper rifle is expensive. There's no way around that. If you want to build your own, there are a few options: 1. VSR based. Cheap, completely VSR platform, and everything inside must go. The hardest to build. 2. A&K M24. Has lots of goodies already, hopup unit is not VSR compatible, I think it's very hard to find one now. 3. Striker AS02. Cylinder and piston straight to bin, £100 to get the proper ones. Then needs a suppressor and a suppressor adapter, that' an other £25ish. 4. Cyma CM.700. Also comes with 90 degree steel trigger, but plastic piston. Looks decent and is cheap to be a good base. 5. SSG. not that good as it is expensive. Still, good for an out of the box gun. Honourable mentions: Chinese M40A3. I think ASG, maybe. VSR-ish internals. Not sure, but people like it. Fine if you don't want to invest much to get an OK gun. Action Army AAC T10. The plastic piston, spring guide, and sear? is bad, and the fact that AA could have done it with their proper parts, but built it with cheap stuff is annoying. Still, a pretty VSR platform. No: Any APS2 platform (most Well rifles), TM L96 and clones, cheap rifles (they are not really compatible with anything), any gun with the feeding ramp.
  7. If it's your first paint, don't paint the gun. Get one from poundland and experiment on that, because it'll be crap at first.
  8. It's Aldi, isn't it? Good green it is.
  9. Don't risk it if it's puffy. LiFe is supposed to be much more safe than LiPo so if it's puffy, there is a big problem. It won't burst out in flames, but will probably die. Send it back. " Each LiFe cell has a NOMINAL voltage of 3.3V. A fully charged LiFe cell is 3.6V " So 10.8V is the fully charged life's voltage, that's not a problem.
  10. Removing the stock might help. Does it have a screw on the other side or is it the original?
  11. I've removed the fuses from all my guns that had them. The only thing you have to keep in mind that when it stops firing, you don't pull the trigger again. And it's harder than you think. You will give it a few pulls to see WTF, then a few long-long pulls to "fix" it, and that's when it burns something.
  12. Get a piston too. The steel sear chews away the base of the original alu piston in no time. Mine has little pieces of it everywhere inside the cylinder after one game and some garden shooting.
  13. Unless you don't plan to move with it, you probably shouldn't buy one. A teammate of mine got one and then got rid of it after one game and he is a very big, muscular bloke.
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