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Samurai last won the day on September 3 2017

Samurai had the most liked content!


About Samurai

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    AF-UK Addict
  • Birthday 02/07/1976

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    It's never the gun!
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  1. That's a problem of ML bucking, not the gun. All my ML buckings looked like shit after a very short use. I have flamingo in the Striker.
  2. If you TDC it anyway then it's better to get a Gunsmithy hop arm for the original chamber. I hated the AA, got rid of it. It's arm is so loose it's a joke.
  3. Get the Novritsch vsr, it seems to be good value for the money. If you want to upgrade it yourself, get the cheapest gspec you can, because everything inside will be changed to upgraded parts except the block under the hopup. Gspec is better because barrel length doesn't mean anything in airsoft, but suppressing does work. Or get an amoeba striker and a cylinder kit.
  4. You can take it apart and then it's not an IF anymore. Parts can be imported (I would still notify the airline). Making it two-tone also works but worse to convert it back to RIF. Which you can do because you are an airsofter even if your easiest proof has expired.
  5. I asked WGC when they will post it, since I've pre ordered in February, and they said, maybe end of May.
  6. That doesn't sound right. Don't mill out anything until absolutely sure that's what's needed. If it's like a spring then can't it be pinching the hopup rubber? I meant to take it apart and get the cylinder out, get the hop unit out with the barrel and try to push them together. Or just the bolt with the receiver, but without the barrel and hop. Etc.
  7. Never charge any airsoft spring boltie like in that video. As for the problem. You should find out what exactly stops it from going fully forward. The hop unit, the bucking, something in the receiver or the trigger unit. Take it apart and examine combination without the others.
  8. It will make absolutely no noticeable difference.
  9. Airsoft parts are made to the same tolerances as airsoft meters to real meters. But unfortunately a small size difference can make a great performance difference, and there are no standard specs for them. Everyone just makes a somewhat similar part that they make fit with the factory parts of the same gun, but even their own next iteration of the same part can be slightly different. They make it on a different machine, different supplier even, different material and that adds up to the 10-20% all parts combined.
  10. If it was made for the same brand and same model then you have 80-90% that it will fit. If it wasn't then 10-20%.
  11. BTW this wasn't me.
  12. SSG10 and spend the rest on someone who fixes it. There's talking that it is quite badly put together and any feedback stating this is heavily silenced. However the parts in it are good, just need some attention.
  13. It's that simple, but they have low discharge rates, so use it with light loads: no high torque or speed motors, not too strong spring, etc. Also, soldering them into a stick is very tricky, especially if they don't have soldering tabs on them. Or should I say super hard without some proper equipment as solder wont flow on their ends as you would've expected and heating it for more than a second or so will damage the battery.
  14. If there's metal on the gun, get some fine sanding paper and gently sand away the black paint on places that would rub if you were using it. Around where you grip it, magwell, anything that sticks out or is a sharp edge. Don't go crazy on that. Put the gun on the ground somewhere you can paint it, lightly paint it with one or two colours, kick it until it lands on its other side and do the same there. Then get some rubbing alcohol (super hard to find now), or white spirit on a towel and gently rub it with long moves so the paint gets removed from anywhere you would usually touch while using it. Do not use acetone, that will melt the plastic parts.
  15. Don't get a longer barrel unless you get the bigger volume cylinder. Get the as02 and a suppressor to make it longer and quieter.
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