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New arrivals. G&G sr15 e3 mod2 knights armament and Novritsch SSG10 A3. The PEQ's 3m velcro adhesive sticker won't adhere on the rubber switch so I'm looking for ways to attach it to the top rail. Just incase the stock barrel and hop aren't up to the job (SR15) I've ordered a barrel and bucking from @ak2m4@ak2m4.

Has basic options i.e burst mode etc. Ill have a look at the peruns. Must be an optical mosfet as the shell has no trigger posts. They modded the v2 shell to house the mosfet. After more in inspection I feel that the active break may be adding to the heat of bad motor allignment. Packed out one side of the grip to straighten motor and heat has dropped dramatically

I think my reply to this seller would be ?

So after 34 pages of basically everyone reporting having had either an identical or pretty close experience to everyone else would it be fair to say general consensus is even if you could you'd have to be a f🤬king loon of a monumental proportion to even think about buying anything from TG OR gunfire for the foreseeable future then ?

You can put me in the same category as this NY plod.

Still waiting for my sight for it though

It looks an feel great, plastic feels really nice everything clicks in positive and buttons are nice and responsive but its useless to me at least, you hold down the button, light comes on then 3 seconds after that laser is constant on. That's both for VIS and IR. Had no way to test it but the red laser is not even close to class one, would been burning retinas out there sockets if it was pointed down someone's magnified optic.

Are you from Reddit 🙂 CYMA M4's are super decent for the price.

Just stay away from Nuprol

I'll be very clear that I don't know the answer to that question, and don't know how well these will play with an active-brake mosfet (which may be very, very badly indeed), but I've fitted Schottky diodes to all my motors now in a ritual act to keep the angry pixies flying in the right direction without escaping in a sparky rage. I use SB260s rather than the SB160s recommended here because 1) they fit, and 2) that's a whole 100 more Schottkies! [Edit - I wind the wires the other way, clockwise around the screws, so that they get pulled tighter. I'm not sure why this chap wound them anticlockwise, or whether that's deliberate or not]

Purchased a lovely E&L. Don't plan on doing anything to it modifications wise, perfect just as it is 🍑

Heya all. I just picked up one of the new Ares Kel-Tec RDBs. This is the first and probably only generation of these AEGs. I am always loathe to be the first to buy a brand new just released rifle ever since the KWA Tavor GBBr disaster. But... It's a bullpup, and I must have it. With the Ares RDB I was mostly right to be reticent. Looks: Great, the box is similar to the real Kel Tec rifle ones. The Replica looks fantastic. Quite accurate to look at. The Plastic is of very high quality Nylon Fibre. The metal feels like standard Ares Pot metal. Internals: Usual Ares Trash, not that I expected any less. This essentially took the standard Ares Soc-AR gearbox, Quick change spring system, Ferrite motor, innards and mosfet, replaced the cylinder with a one piece cylinder/cylinder head type and called it fine. To be fair the Ares Mosfet is a monster, hall sensors everywhere, whilst it has no real additional functionality, it is made of quite substantial components. The proprietary hop unit is.... meh. The plastic used is sturdier then it's orange appearance would have you believe. Unlike other Ares hop units, this one probably wont adjust by itself upon firing. Sadly the arm has a built in plastic nub, so you will need to modify it to use a rubber nub. The standard bucking is the usual ultra soft Ares rubber which tears easily. I replaced this with a Prommy Purple straight away. Hop adjustment is made in the magwell (So have to remove the magazine) by a small flathead screwdriver supplied within the RDB's pistol grip. The stock barrel is an awfully made 450mm brass barrel with a small hop window. This was changed out for a ZCI 420mm straight away. Fit and Finish: This is where the problems were very close to me returning it. The Outer Barrel and gas tube/Top Rail do not align, much like the 1st gen G&G GK5's and 1st gen Krytac M4's. I had to take the outer barrel apart to align it close enough to shoot straight. Sadly this also means trying to get the handguard pin back in is a nightmare as the pin hole on the gas tube/outer barrel bracket is now at a slight angle. I suspect this is actually an inherent design flaw rather then something specific to mine. If you want to see if your RDB has this issue, just look from the top down at the front of the rail and see if it aligns with the outer barrel extension, my extension is cockeyed to the left. I cant get the flash hider off from the barrel extension. Its stuck on fast and I need to get the heatgun out to see if that will shift it. The gearbox shimming is awful as per usual for Ares. the motor is weak, but the mosfet bullies the AEG into having reasonable performance on 11.1v. As per usual I will be replacing these bits ASAP. Performance: It's not particularly awful, I need to spend some time with the hop unit to get it working as best as it could, even with the prommy purple and ZCI barrel, its performance is lacking a little, range falling short of most of my other AEG's. ROF is fine. FPS was 330 out of the box with a stock M90 spring, dropping to 320 when I installed the shorter ZCI barrel. It's a quick change spring system so I put in a spare M95 to bump the performance up to 347 fps. At least it shoots straight after being beaten into shape by yours truly. Would I recommend it?: Like most bullpups, you have to love the system, be prepared to invest some physical labour and Teching to get it working to an acceptable standard. So for your average user... no. I do LOVE the look of the rifle and the way it feels in hand. If you insist on buying one, try seeing it in person beforehand to see if it has the barrel misalignment issue that I had. Frankly, it's Ares, and I got what I expected, good ideas, good on paper, but woefully implemented. Dissasembly Guide: ARES/EMG KEL-TEC RDBを分解していきます（分解手順、バレル、メカボックス内部紹介） | エボログ (evolutor.net) Here she is, along with my KSG.

Mine has arrived!!!! The recoil is much more than the MWS and it is very satisfying on full auto.

Interesting one this, we have a WE double barreled 1911 which is a *tad* (awesomely) overpriced at £140 seen as they retail at £170ish, especially considering the shitty condition. The real eye opener for me is the G18c, which is described as the usual 'pretty much as new' despite having a fucked front end from being yeeted during a game. So, second hand, skirmished and damaged we're asking £4 more than you can presently buy a G18c brand new from Firesupport. The reasoning on this one is the addition of a Serpa holster, which from quick general reading is also second hand and hot garbage anyway. Oh, and that's plus postage which I guarantee won't be cheaper than Firesupports postage, widening the gap further. This thing of lumping unwanted accessories in with a gun that isn't worth the asking in the first place needs to go away and die. That and the nearly/as/pretty much new thing. It's either new or it's second hand. If you've removed it from the package, taken it to a game and run it, it's definitely second hand. 'New' should not appear anywhere in the description, ESPECIALLY if you've tried to use it as a lawn dart. 🙄

Point 1 , why yes good sir you are SO spot on ! 🤦‍♂️ Point 2 , one full size M16 stock , a couple of red dot scopes , a PEQ box with working light and red laser , a 1911 paddle holster and a pair of rather pointy looking AK flash hiders , no problems with any of them .

Note that when within the EU we were paying the VAT of the other country - the UK were among a handful of the countries with the lowest VAT, a lot of airsoft gear came from Poland so we were paying their higher rate of 23% If you were to buy from Poland today under the other non Brexit changes and it fell within the threshold then you would now pay the lower UK 20% to a Polish company registered with HMRC, and no further import fees would be required ( they would incur the extra admin costs which is why most will just refuse to handle that ) Outside of the threshold it does mean all the import costs apply - which means it would be better to support UK retailers who can import via their supply chain If retailers don’t list something in stock then ask

Buying from Europe was fine when we were still in the EU and didn't have to pay VAT, import duty and customs fees. I am not sure there is much point in it now. The savings are much reduced.

ASG make the EVO in Denmark. One of the reps posted pics from a factory tour a couple of years ago.

Customs is a lottery right now. You wouldn't believe how long it's taking to get an inflatable paddle board through, we're at a month right now and it looks like I might finally get it in a fortnight - which is pretty nuts for a glorified lilo. Can't blame anyone in Europe for not wanting to ship to the UK, I wouldn't if I were them - just ain't worth the hassle. In theory it'll settle down in a few months, backlogs will be cleared and everyone will get a bit more familiar with the rules. Don't hold your breath though.

No idea. The price didn't go up at checkout and I didn't get a letter telling me I had duties to pay, so I was content with that I don't think I've ever noticed that from any retailer though. It's why I keep it under £135 because I can't be bothered to deal with all that malarky.

Saddam's gold plated AK-47 😎. Metal body, real wood furniture.

Gotcha, yes. Although as you say if border farce seize it I don't know what the likes of PayPal or Visa would say. @Rogerborg so I had a look and PayPal say So if the item is seized but the seller has proof of shipment you might be boned.

As far as Customs is concerned, yes. All I'd be concerned with is what my payment processor would do when I file a "goods not received, money back" claim. I've not had to do that yet with an import, but the normal principle is that until those goods are in my hands, intact and as described, they're not mine, they're the seller's property. I'll re-iterate the point that goods can be seized or destroyed because a seller has mis-labelled them, which is out of our control.

Cheers boys yeah I used it sparingly. I've just got a couple of drips to contend with nothing major. I'll post the result in here when it's done. 🔫👍

Unless the mosfet is programmable (which I doubt) then you won't be able to disable it. Better off ditching it for a decent Mosfet (either with or without active braking).

70m sure, 80 is rare. He's saying 70-80, which means max 70. VSR rubber won't fit an AEG. I guess he means the maple leaf AEG rubbers, which are the same colours and names as the vsr rubbers. But if it's s-hopped then it doesn't matter.

can see that one catching on amongst the 'yoot next thing you know they'll be wearing them sideways, damn kids and their loud music.....

The externals of them depend upon the model you buy, some are an alloy and some are polymer, e.g. the M904E and M907E are identical internally and look identical as well but the M907E has an alloy handguard and receiver. Everything I know about them implies that they're quite reliable, however there are not many of them out there so it's not a certainty (but I'm fine if one day mine fails as I know it's bog standard internals and I can just swpa parts out). If you look online there's nothing that confirms this either way, and some have made assumptions based upon the use of the word "Eagle". All I know is that Double Eagle are a Chinese toy manufacturer, it appears that they make RC cars / toys primarily, and they imply that they have their own facilities for manufacturing (moulding plastics etc.). I'm just making assumptions but I've a feeling that their guns are a bit of a mongrel with some parts being theirs, some being other OEM's, and they assemble them themselves? Edit: If anyone's interested they, DE, list part of their address as "Fujian Qing An Precision Machinery" in China, and this factory has made shipments to both Umarex and Crossman so I'm assuming that this factory manufactures for them. This factory also used to own the trademark "QAP" who sold airsoft products, who's logo was two eagles (hmm, double eagles eh). This has sent me off down a rabbit hole so I think it best I just outright ask Double Eagle if they manufacture themselves or use an OEM. Edit 2: If you go to DE's website... http://www.deairsoft.com/ ... they actually have the "QAP" logo in the top left corner of it so they are one and the same. I've now directly asked them about their manufacturing as one way or another I now have to know. Edit 3: I really must stop this and get back to work, reading their website properly (rather than making assumptions) they say... ... so it looks like they may well make the ASG Scorpion Evo 😲

Awesome - thanks for the heads up mate, great review, think i'll hang off buying at the moment....

I sent it back for a refund, no pics I am afraid but it looks and mounts just like the real one. It would be OK as a nav light but as it switches off and turns the laser on after a few seconds its pretty useless even at that. It works in tandem with a weapon light really well when you hook up your light with something like the modbutton rip off, with all 3 switches in line, and that was my plan. If they go down in price I would be tempted to get another and rip apart and see if I could make one button do mom laser and the other constant.

Hey, i think i read your review on Ali! Thats a bummer, do you recon you may have got a faulty unit? What do you recon to the light, is it bright enough, or do you need to run a seperate torch with it? Not sure it's currently worth a ton plus, especially if PTS do end up releasing one. Do you have any pics mounted? Thanks for your response 🙂

They've never done anything right 🤣 Its a company that rebrands other low end OEM stuff and they haven't released anything good from rifs, chargers or even BBs. Isn't Jing Gong the OEM for Double Eagle? I know they are the OEM for Golden Eagle.

Another vote for the double eagle 904. Shoots and built much better than my Specna arms E07

Yup!

There are all sorts of systems available with varying complexities in just about any setting (fantasy, historical, science fiction, naval, aircraft, spaceships) and scales from pub punch-ups to Waterloo. The best systems let you concentrate on actual tactics and putting yourself in the position of a commander, while Games Workshop stuff is much more about meta-gaming to exploit an ever changing set of special rules and trick units, then setting up and rolling huge handfuls of dice without much by the way of actual decisions or tactics once you're playing. You can play at home, the problem these days is finding folk near you to play with who are interested in the same settings and systems as you. That's where Games Workshop shines, they have retail shops and run tournaments where you can use the hugely expensive models that they sold you, and God help you if you try and bring anything else. You could jump on... urgh... Facebook and see if there are any Localtown wargaming / tabletop clubs. True that, I once reduced a grown man to tears in a tournament by exploiting the hell out of Epic with a force composed entirely of cheap Scout Marine companies and Thunderhawk dropships (part played by de-bladed Micro Machines Apache helicopters from the local toy shop). He deploys. My whole army is off table. Turn 1, Thunderhawks drop from orbit to any point on table, and deploy swarms of Scouts directly into close combat with his expensive Titans and super-heavies. Then comes the Epic cheese of "Titan stomps on Scouts, next stand is +3, Titan stomps on Scouts, next stand is +6, Titan stomp on Scouts, next stand is +9, wins, reactor hit, boom." Rinse and repeat until by the end of turn 1 he's lost all his big stuff, and he's trembling and choking up and saying "But all you're doing is trading your cheap units for my expensive ones!" Life is hell in the grimdark, chap.

potentially, a bad mesh means more load on the motor which will drop the peak rpm. how much you'd be losing depends on a lot of factors such as the motor power, battery, and how tight it is. you get the same effect with tight shimming, and it'll lead to things like a hotter running motor, more carbon from the contacts etc. kinda like trying to drive your car with the handbrake on.

Thanks I'll let you know how I get on 🙂 Not much of a tinkerer but had a few day off and thought I would have a look at my old g and g gc4 g26. Primarily wanted to tighten outer barrel assembly but one thing led to another and before I knew it she was in a hundred bits. Found out it needed an air seal,bucking and nub. Went to Combat South and bought parts and some silicon grease and gearbox grease and set to work.Its gone from 218 fps to 335 average fps with 705 rpm. And the barrel assembly is solid now. Bit harder getting main spring in compared to my other gats which are quick change. Will adjusting motor increase rpm? Regards

the click is less damaging than the grinding whirr. stalling a motor out does draw more current than the motor running normally, but for the half second run time needed to check engagement it's generally not an issue. yep, she'll sound/feel less labored. it's a hard thing to describe really as every gun can end up sounding different. i've had boxes ran like silk seemingly no matter what you do to them and others that getting them to sound smooth was a losing battle.

@TadsJ2 let me know when you want to get rid of the empty receiver. MWS oracle, there's something that has puzzled me for hours today. I insert a mag in my CQBR lower. No problem. With the upper and lower assembled ( note without BCG ), the mag release gets really stiff and sometimes doesn't fully reseat itself on the selector side ( i.e it doesn't become flush with the receiver ), I have to push it back into position. Also releasing the mag is stiff and requires a lot of force. I tried to pair the CQBR lower with my MWS upper and MWS lower with CQBR upper. No problems. Mag release has equal amounts of revolutions tightened on both rifles. Yet problems emerge as I put together CQBR upper and lower... Any idea of what it could be? (They are painted differently, thus no easy fix of combining MWS and CQBR for two working rifles...) Edit @RMDavis I can see that you had a similar problem last year. How's the rifle today?

You're better off looking for something you like the look of and then finding the best one to buy. JG might also be worth looking at. The ones I have perform above the expected price/performance ratio.

Noted.

Can you point to where the spring is missing?

£150+ gets you into Specna Arms One series so I'd say something like this: https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/specna-arms-sa-b02-one-carbine-aeg?pv=16737 good solid gearbox, no fancy bits you don't really need and pretty decent out of the box. Also a good base to build on once you decide where you want to go with it. You should also have decent magazine compatibility too. G&Gs in that price range are going to likely be Combat Machine models (not that that should put you off) so if metal bodies is on your check list then you may be disappointed. It does get you into the ARP9 if you want to be forever labelled a "speediboi" and start wearing lycra everywhere. Cyma platinum series are very good if you can stretch your budget a little (or shop around for better prices) https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/cyma-cm-097b-platinum-edition If you can get to a local store then get in there and try a few for size or ask nicely at your local site (don't forget though that plenty of guns you see on site may well not be standard). That way you'll avoid the buyers remorse you've already had a taste of. Don't rule out things like M14s, G36s and MP5s though but if you do consider them, bear in mind what mag pouches you'll need down the road. And always remember that you can ask here for opinions on guns but every single one out there will have someone that knows a horror story about it. Especially if it's an Ares.

What a w@nk imagine trying to list magazines 😉😂

on one hand you've got form, right, and on the other, function, yeah?. put them together.... fun. think about it. edit: in all seriousness i actually prefer to have a large collection of extremely expensive items.

Mine work absolutely fantastic. I do however own an OFCOM license to use them on dedicated frequencies so I can sneer at the peasants who don't.

Latest project. GHK G5 with a workshop special HPA drum. Creeps like a mofo with heavy ammo so I’ve done the adjustable nozzle mod, now it’s slinging 0.36’s at 250fps edit so it makes sense to @Rogerborg0.36’s at 1.1J

Personally, I don't want people putting tape all over my guns, thank you very much. However, the "if it looks like a sniper, then you have an MED" is utter tripe. Lots of people like running 1J bolties, especially those who are also into WW2 airsoft. Also, there are people who like running "DMRs" at 1J so as to avoid the MED. My m21 is very sniper-y (no, it's not an m14!), but I'll run it at 1.1J to avoid the 30m MED because I prefer the flexibility over the extra 0.5J and the tiny range increase that affords, so if someone told me "nah, you have an MED anyway" I'd probably tell them to piss off. Politely.

That is quite possibly the dumbest, laziest, wrongest thing I've heard of a site doing, and it's up against some quite stiff competition.