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No school like the old school

End of the day, z/wagner shit is claiming hundreds+ lives every day, even today, on both sides, & let's not forget that some of those Russians aren't there out of choice, & others may have gone there having been misled by the dictatorships "free" media & state propaganda. On that basis, no site should be allowing these patches to be worn on gamedays, in 30+ years you might get away with them being part of a viable loadout (but I doubt it), but in 2023 they're just symbols of oppression & murder on a massive scale.

The British Forces Collection family updated..... Row 1. Row 2. Row 3 L115A3. L108A1. L7A2 GPMG L86A2. L119A1 CQB. L100A1 (G3) L85A2 UGL. L119A1 SFW. L91A1 (A3) L85A2 TES. Model 723. L92A1 (SD) L85A2. Model 715. L128A1 L22A2. L1A1 SLR. L74A1 LAW 66 Pistols L9A1 (hi power) L105A1 (sas crw P226) L105A2 (UOR P226) L131A1 (gen 4 glock)

I hear he barely ever mentions the Embassy balcony.

Hey, I want to introduce you to a personal friend of mine... Peak nerd.

Latest arrival GHK SIG 553 Bloody hell it’s SOLID Full steel construction, the only thing not steel is the aluminium top rail The Ceracote finish is lovely, more a green/grey than grey Cant wait to try this out tomorrow😍

Old school ish build ( WE GBB base ) shoots well too which is a bonus 😂

No, definitely not. But if your friends mum wanted to buy it & then gift it to you, that would be fine, just so long as no money changes hands. Although, How you show your gratitude to your mates mum is between you two 😏. 😜

Work in progress, BRT CAR15-SD 300 blk replica. This gun encompasses all the best bits of various guns imo; Its a sub-gun / PDW - my fave size. MP5SD vibes - just love MP5s. Retractable stock - again MP5. AR controls - ergonomics. 20rd mags - easy to shoot when prone. 300 subsonics - cool as F in real steel.

So uh... some you of guys may remember this: Or this: And maybe this: Well, I'm glad you're back! Because here comes the fourth iteration which combines the strengths of each previous model. I'll keep this short and sweet. As per usual, the MOSQUITO is a 3D printed, open-source airsoft kit that is super compact and lightweight. This newest iteration now only requires an AK-style V3 gearbox as there is now a custom 3D printed hop-up chamber. In addition, from the above images, there is now a front and rear wired battery solution so that you don't have to get angry at me anymore for having to rewire your gearbox. You can find the STL and STEP files on the Printables page here: MOSQUITO Airsoft Kit (Open Beta 2) by HYBRID AIRSOFT | Download free STL model | Printables.com There is also an 86 page handbook that I wrote up which details the 3D printing and assembly steps (have fun with that). I hope you guys with a 3D printer can try it out. If you get stuck or want to discuss anything, the easiest way to get help is to join the discord server (1500+ members), linked at the bottom of the Printables page, and there will be people more than willing to answer your questions about the kit. This test will now run indefinitely until I release a final version of it (whenever that happens). Thank you for reading and have fun printing

As promised...

Play to play. The "sport" is full of assholes, weekend warriors and wannabes, I just ignore them and wear my "I'M A SPACEMAN" patches, because we're playing cowboys and Indians in the woods (hey, I said bang and you didn't fall down!). Play for the fun and don't let dickheads stop your enjoyment of something.

Now that I got a front strap from Japan and a metal suppressor from a chap on here, the mac11 is complete! Such a nasty little sniper secondary.

After a lot of time spent looking for parts I think she’s finally finished to a point where i’m happy with her. Now to finish my other projects 😂 WE M14 WE EBR chassis 90% RA-TECH internals Blue force gear Vickers padded sling RS Ergo EBR grip RS SAGE broom stick RS KAC bipod adaptor RS Harris 1A2-L bipod RS flash hider RS auto lock RS SAGE DCSB RS Leupold MK4 med scope rings Replica Leupold MK4 3.5-10x40 scope RS Butler creek scope cover I may change a couple things in the future. Steel engraved receiver instead of the aluminium one and possibly a RS EBR hand guard if I can find one.

Update: Just got the machine and this is my first test

Spent rather too much on this WE M14 but its a beauty (Top image is darker as it shows the 'before' process of weathering) I have modded the trigger group with JB Weld to make it stronger

I can just imagine it. Him sitting alone in his bedroom in his ghillie suit with his "Sniper", "Shooter" and "Enemy at the gates" posters on the walls, surrounded by empty KFC buckets, stroking his rifle and muttering "nasty, nasty. We will makes them sorry, won't we my precious?"

The strength of that balcony shows the true quality of British building. Nearly 8000 men assembled on it during that raid!

Been working on this. Still a work in progress. It's a close representation of the actual minimi's used by the ill fated "Bravo two zero" (as pictured) It's a basic Mk1 minimi, but was fitted with a gpmg flash hider. Mine started as a TOP M249, but has external upgrades, Replica flash hider Guarder steel gas block Guarder steel centre block Guarder steel cocking lever Guarder steel body parts. G&P steel bipod ANGS top cover, This is being worked on to actually have a working round indicator. Genuine rear sight Genuine box mag (period correct) Genuine stock (not fitted yet)

I'll raise you almost the entire tm spring catalogue, kwc and some other strange stragglers 😁

If in doubt, take it. I once played at a site in the Midlands and we all had a tag (a price of hard plastic with a number written on it, attached to a string) around our necks that symbolised a "life" and the enemy team had to kill you and take it from you before your 2 minute bleed out. Which ever team at the end of the match with the most lives left won. I came out of respawn, started running and got hit instantly, centre mass. I stood bewildered, wondering where the shot come from. 2 mins pass, no enemy comes to take my tag, so I take the 5 steps back to respawn and come out again. I slowly start creeping cautiously forward and can't see or hear anyone. I start jogging....I hear the slap of a round on my plate carrier again. I called hit, look around for who shot me, wait 2 mins, bleed out and go 10 steps back to respawn. I decide I'm running full pelt out of redpawn to try and avoid this mystery sniper. I run out of the respawn, 2 steps, slap. Centre mass AGAIN. At this point I'm getting a bit annoyed at being spawn camped. I respawn and creep slowly forward. Because I'm looking for a hidden sniper, I don't look where I'm going and I stumble slightly. I look down to see my tag fly up on the chain, then slam down....onto my plate carrier....making the same bloody sound as a bb hitting my chest plate! The movement of me running was making the tag jump up and down, slapping on my plate carrier. I'd been calling a hit for no reason. Needless to say, the Marshall watching was quite amused! He did however commend my honesty about hit taking!

A few from the Battlesim Lite, with Outcast members @Smiling-Dutchman @Honey Badger 63 @GAMBLE and Joan Wick, who isn't on the forum, I don't think.

My VFC LAR/FAL DX version landed in UK in late April, customs had it for 5 weeks. After the long and painful waiting, it finally arrived this week. Pretty confident it's the first DX FAL arrived in UK or even Europe. Shame that customs wanted to have more fun with it before I could get hold of The difference between the normal version and DX is the special wooden box, proper trades and every part of metal made of steel. Might be a bit overpriced but I'll pay for that as a super FAL fan

So been working on this bad boy. Still not finished. But its getting there... So it's an ares A3 Managed to fit the angry gun mlok rail to it. Added the C Reinforcement sections. Hka3 added to rear. LLM03 3d printed Not seen in pic is the QR codes added to both sa80 and os4. Still to do; Laser engraved the os4 Make a pressure pad and 3d print the coupling. Weather it all.

Boomarms MOS plate and SRO clone freshly installed to the TM G17 Gen5

@Jedi_Master & @proffrink I have been playing whack-a-mole with the spammers for the last couple of days. I've nuked loads, I'm sure the other spam moderators have done the same. Can we lock the ability for new users to create new threads without approval from admin/spam moderator? So they create a new thread - but a admin/spam mod has to approve that thread to show to the wider masses? We would be able to tell pretty quicky if these are legit users, and the 'probationary' period will end if we are satisfied that what they post is appropriate to the forum.

Version 1 is more or less done. Im probably gonna change around the grip texture and the non reciprocating charging handle needs something to hold it forwards while the gun is running but its fully useable as is. Minus the fact its missing a few bolts but its too late at night for me to want to fire up the soldering iron and put the threaded inserts in.

MCX Build ,

Couple of new pieces have turned up. First is my mostly real steel MG3 build. Its off getting HPA'd right now, then back to me for some more airsoft to real steel conversion. Next, my G27K build is pretty much done. Still testing out the new EPM-1S midcaps, but so far 170 rounds in a 417 is so nice. Finally, work on my MG4 is nearing completion. Is anyone else noticing a trend here?... Still working on the custom MG4 optic, but its essentially done - just got to get it printed in a stronger format.

Did you just keep rolling around in mud and bushes for all 7 months till you eventually became one with nature, a walking bush Wookiee?

My New KWA F90 (EF-88) I've been waiting for this for 2 years, hopefully it performs as good as it feels.

Introduction: The lost art of capacitors in airsoft The mythical powers of "capacitor banks" is not a new idea in airsoft, but the original sources and theories are lost in time, with only faint forum posts remain (all the links are dead in https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/threads/capacitor-banks-revisited.8688/). In my pursuit of the ultimate trigger response in AEG, power supply remains a big unresolved issue because batteries (LiPo or NiMH) do not really give enough oomph for lack of a better word. We need something better, I thought, we need supercapacitors. And so I set out to rediscover the elementals of such dark magic from scratch (but based on the same principles). And I believe I have revived this magic which I will share my formula below. And dare I say, the surface of this dark art has not really been scratched, because the predecessors either did not use enough capacity (some examples were in the order of millifarads which is not nearly enough), and did not really use the correct type of supercaps (stacked coin cells hybrid types are not capable of high amps). And perhaps the right modules were not available until very recently, so this study will also represent a fresh look into this subject. If you want the bottom line: Why supercaps at all, isn't LiPo good enough? In short (excuse the pun), LiPo cannot provide sufficient peak current for the amp spikes during start of motor which is often in the region of 45-60 A. These micro-events of shorts (from the perspective of the battery) is also a main pathology of LiPo degrading and swelling over time. These spikes happen every shot in semi, and in the first shots in full-auto. This status quo practice of relying on abusing LiPo as sacrifice for performance does not sit well with me, because firstly it is electrically primitive, and secondly it is a safety risk in this toy gun industry that I think is unnecessary and should be done away with, at least as much as possible. The whole premise of using supercaps is to provide a voltage reservoir for surge power during these initial amp spikes. This is needed because these amp spike often exceed the capabilities of the battery (even LiPo) and the batteries drops voltage in response (for milliseconds) and unable to feed all the current needed for this initial spin-up of the motor. In theory, it can achieve the following: Surge power for much more responsive motor, resulting in snappier trigger response. Stabilised voltage supply for full-auto, resulting in better ROF. Protecting batteries from surge currents, prolonging their lifespan and minimise risks of LiPo fire. My evidence and theorisations are as follows. What is the actual energy requirement? To begin to figure out the solution, we need to ask, what is the minimum capacity to be effective? We can analyse these two graphs from airsoftlab.eu for theorycrafting. http://www.airsoftlab.eu/docs/experiments/motor_current/ To figure out the ballpark of energy levels we are talking about, I have picked two cases representative of a high stress build (with a 16 TPA motor) and a more optimal build (with a 28 TPA). The first graph is with 16 TPA motor, SP130, 13:1, to illustrate a typical suboptimal setup with a low torque motor paired with a high stress spring and gear ratio. The second graph is with a more comfortable 28 TPA motor with SP130 and 13:1 to show a more efficient setup. Just by eyeballing the graphs (and the blog), we can character these spikes (and the energy required to tame them) to be about 45A to 60A, for a duration of about 60ms. 16 TPA: 28 TPA: What do the numbers mean? There is a simple answer, and a more complex one. A simplistic way to translate this to farad (the capacity we need), using the 16 TPA setup as example, 60A for 60ms is 3.6 coulomb, which at 11.1V is about 0.324 F. For the 28 TPA example, this would be 2.7 coulomb, at 11.1 V this is 0.243 F. Therefore we can say our ballpark figure is about 0.25 F to 0.33 F as a minimum target. If we are aiming to create a unit that can work with worst case scenario, let's go with 0.33 F. However because supercaps discharge their voltage linearly (meaning their 11.1 V drops down to zero as it discharges over the 60 ms), we can think of it as sharing the workload with the battery in a 1:1 ratio (this is very simplified), meaning it is only doing half of the work while the batteries still need to supply the other half of the current (which is a big improvement already). Here is a prediction: In this predicted scenario, the amp spike seen by the battery should be reduced to less than half, because the supercaps will react faster to supply the spike, but as the supercap runs out of voltage, the battery will notice the difference in voltage and catch up, eventually supplying the full load in full-auto, but at a much improved stability. And as the trigger is released, the current stops, the supercaps are charged up again to battery voltage as the battery recovers from voltage sag. We can offload even more work from the batteries if we multiply the supercap capacity (say 3 times, to 1 F) so the they will perform in a 3:1 relationship i.e. 75% of the work are done by supercaps, which will stabilise the current even more. If we go bigger, say 1.66 F, the ratio will be 5:1, or 83% of work being done by supercaps. (The actual result will probably be better, the ratios e.g. 1:1 at 0.33 F are just conservative notional numbers I made up for ease of explanation. Supercaps are more responsive than batteries, and the overall lowered battery stress should further reduce overall voltage sag, so the battery should see less than 50% of the peak current, but I don't have the equipments to proof this hypothesis.) So let's say our notional baseline is 0.33 F, now we just need to implement this theory. Designing a supercaps unit Here is our goal: 1. Supercaps with total capacity of 0.33 F or more, bigger the better. 2. Voltage should be ok for airsoft usage. (Say a fully charged 11.1 V LiPo is around 12.6 V) 3. Overall size to be small enough to fit in a typical buffer tube, with room for cable management for most cases. Smaller the better. 4. (Bonus feature) built-in safety to drain residue voltage when unplugged. 5. (Bonus feature) LED to indicate presence of voltage. The obvious (and probably the only viable) strategy is to use 3 no. of 5-6 V supercaps in series to give us a 15-18 V headroom for the maximum 12.6 V we are expecting from a fully charged 11.1. The first problem is selection of supercaps. The second problem is designing the whole package that can physically fit inside the buffer tube. Long story short, here is my blueprint: (Just connect the supercaps in series, and then parallel with the batteries, I don't have a drawing) The Eaton supercaps I am using are the highest capacity that can still fit inside a typical buffer tube and wiring, and with one of the better ESR in its class, and can theoretically suffer 115 A of thermals over 60 ms, and tested to MIL-STD 202G for shock and vibration. They are wired (I'm using some fancy SPEC 44 16 awg wires) to a connector that goes between the AEG wire and battery wire, so it is completely plug and play, and removable for safety and for storage. It can in fact be stacked up (if you have multiple units) to give extra performance. For extra safety I have included a bleeder resistor to discharge the residue voltage in maximum 3 hours after it is unplugged. Also for safety (and aesthetics) I added an LED for visual indication of voltage presence. I am tempted to call it the PASTA 1000 (Pseudotectonic Advanced SupercapaciTor Array 1000 mF) but any suggestions welcome. Here is what it looks like in real life: Testing AEG: Specna E-19, completely stock (which has an X-ASR mosfet preinstalled.) Battery: 9.6 V NiMH, fully charged, measuring about 11.32 V when testing. This is just a simple A/B test to see if the supercaps work at all. I will simply alternate between plugging and unplugging the supercaps several times, then take measurements with groups of 6 to 7 shots, until the data are fairly consistent and/or a pattern can be identified. The groups are measured in Audacity and averaged and rounded to nearest millisecond. Also note I am not testing with any magazine inserted because A. that is not going to make massive difference either way and B. it is one less variable to worry about and C. if a BB goes off it is going to affect my measurements with sound. The results: Stock setup (without supercaps), group #1: Trigger response: from trigger action = 83 ms, from motor spin-up = [data missing] ROF: ~17.17 RPS With supercaps, group #1: Trigger response: from trigger action = 81 ms, from motor spin-up = 57 ms ROF: ~17.48 RPS (+1.8%) Stock #2: (I stopped measuring full-auto because it is getting too loud for the neighbours) Trigger response: from trigger action = 96 ms, from motor spin-up = 64 ms With supercaps #2: Trigger response: from trigger action = 74 ms (-23%), from motor spin-up = 62 ms (-3%) Stock #3: Trigger response: from trigger action = 90 ms (+22%), from motor spin-up = 69 ms (+11%) With supercaps #3: Trigger reponse from trigger action = 71 ms (-21%), from motor spin-up = 62 ms (-10%) Stock #4: Trigger response: from trigger action = 84 ms (+18%), from motor spin-up = 68 ms (+10%) With supercaps #4: Trigger response: from trigger action = 76 ms (-10%), from motor spin-up = 62 ms (-9%) Stock #5: Trigger response: from trigger action = 80 ms (+5%), from motor spin-up = 69 ms (+11%) With supercaps #5: Trigger response: from trigger action = 75 ms (-6%), from motor spin-up = 61 ms (-12%) Analysis of results: Definitely a noticeable audio difference in trigger response. The only way to describe it is it sounds more "instant" and there is less of the spin-up whine. I am not sure why the groups vary quite a bit (maybe battery and/or gearbox settling) but I think it is fair to say the supercaps are making a difference. If we average the data after group #3, with supercaps, the overall trigger response is about 14% improved, with the cycling time from motor spin-up is remarkably consistent at about 11% improved. The shorter lag time from trigger action to motor spin-up can be explained by the voltage stability provided by the supercaps. Overall I didn't know what to expect but I would say 14% improved trigger response is pretty good. It is definitely not a negligible difference, and definitely noticeable when compared side by side. But going by feel alone, it definitely feels a bit more snappy. ROF is probably improved a little bit, but more testing needed. The installation: This may be the only draw back. To actually fit the unit inside the buffer tube along with the X-ASR is a massive hassle, which I have to actually remove the original long heat shrink around the three wires to get them to flex, and re-crimp two out of three of the spade connectors to the X-ASR because they were damaged by too much bending. And even when the supercaps are in, it is still very stuck and you need to wrestle the wires to get the battery on and close the butt plate. Although I have done it with the stock fully collapsed and if I install it with the stock a few positions out, it will be easy. Once it's on, it works. But it is definitely not ideal if you have any in-line mosfet like mine. However if you use a proper mosfet inside the gearbox and just have wires in the buffer tube, it should fit very easily, potentially upping the supercaps to 5 F ones for even better trigger response. There is no noticeable sparks or heat or anything when install and in use. It simply lights up when you plug it in and it just works with zero drama. Here is how it looks like installed, with a fully collapsed stock, and without the stock: (it barely fits) To uninstall: If the battery is disconnected with just the supercaps plugged into the gun, the gun will barely able to do one shot and the second shot will be stopped by the mosfet because the voltage will have dropped too low. This is just as expected and fairly consistent with the maths. The LED: When you unplug everything, the LED stays on but slowly dims down over the course of about an hour (just as designed). This shows the draining resistor and the LED are all working as intended. I could also feel zero heat from the resistor, which is great and again matching expectation. The LED still visibly faintly glows even at as low as 2 V so it works perfectly for its purpose as a voltage indicator. The red LED is pretty to look at, although I might change the colour to something like blue or green, because the red can be mistaken as error from the mosfet. I might also move it to the "top" side of the "plug". Conclusion of experiment: The prove of concept is a success. Most importantly there is certainly a performance benefit (14% in my test). All the maths check out. The unit is fully functional and fully match the expectations. It literally is plug-and-play. The installation can be a hassle for wire management but that is purely down to physical space and should not be a problem if you are not using in-line mosfet. Conclusions and speculations More testing is needed with other setups, if you would like one for testing I can make you a copy for a fee. The tech tree can potentially branch into AKs or other platforms or even external compartments, but I don't have any of these for development. Here is a summary of what this device can do. The biggest feature for me is safety, because when the LiPo (or any battery) is shielded from stress they are much less likely to puff up over time and starting a fire. Another key thing is of course the performance. It works very well in my very first little experiment. Electrically the overall voltage floor and current ceiling is improved. Adding supercaps is a bit like transitioning from NiMH to LiPo, but on steroids. There is also where the drawbacks are, because a mosfet is probably a good idea for such power, and if you want to collapse the butt stock you will need a more advanced mosfet that sits inside the gearbox rather than the buffer tube, for cable management reasons. (If you copy what I did you will risk breaking some wires) In terms of use cases, it will benefit NiMH the most because the performance is suddenly brought closer to that of LiPo because the performance gap is effectively closed, making NiMH a viable option again. In fact it makes NiMH better than LiPo because NiMH is much safer. This is also a must if you are chasing the state-of-the-art trigger response or battery efficiency in any build. It will also help with cold weather performance. And the best thing is, this is essentially a "free upgrade" because it is an entirely new component added to the system, it does not replace or compete with any existing parts, and it doesn't need any complicated installation, it is literally plug-and-play. The only downside for now is with wire management inside the buffer tube to make room for it. I am not sure if there is enough space for guns other than an M4 but maybe you can find creative ways to fit it e.g. longer wires. This can potentially benefit rental fleets because it is the easiest upgrade possible with zero overhead on tech, plus it makes your NiMH or LiPo inventory much safer and longer lasting. The savings in overhead for battery management could be worth the investment. And when a gun dies you can very easily transplant it to the replacement gun. In theory, you can actually stack multiple units for extra performance (the only problem is finding the space to put them). Conclusion is, and I am probably biased, supercaps could be the next best thing in airsoft. If the space problem can be resolved. Please do comment if you spot any issues in the theory or in the blueprint. Thank you for reading.

I am a happy boy!

Setting hops on these WE GBBR this morning , the mk12 has surpassed expectations , semi auto locked & 350fps on .32 it’s shooting very nicely indeed changed the lower over on the mk18 for a trade marked version so gave that a good run and it’s equally ticking my boxes . M4a1 / m203 upper for S&G

A couple of my MWS's, top is a colt 723 with a Nova receiver, VFC Ops Inc suppressor and a few other bits and pieces for a 90's delta build, and the second is an M16A4 as seen in its transitional era during the Iraq war

Has anybody paid this guy?, if so you need to immediately reverse your payment via whatever options available to you, PayPal dispute etc, as he's a scammer & has been kicked off the forum. Well done @Sniper780 for spotting it & letting everyone know it was moody 👍. Stuff like this is what makes this forum stand out compared to other forums & pages, the members always vigilant & community minded, & a mod team that doesn't panic about gdpr when concerns are raised. Massive 👍

So, credit where credit’s due, Vector Optics have replaced my Frenzy optic free of charge. I noticed the optic was cracked the day after a game and emailed them, not really expecting them honour the warranty which at first glance seems too good to be true (see below) Your Vector Optics Continental, Taurus, Aston, Scrapper and Frenzy line products are covered by our T-VIP lifetime warranty. We will, at our option, either repair or replace your Vector Optics product without any cost if it is damaged or defective. If we can’t repair your damaged product, we will replace it with a brand new one in perfect condition. we proudly stand behind our products. You have our word that we will do what it takes to retain your business as a satisfied customer. You can count on our T-VIP lifetime warranty. Unlimited full lifetime warranty: Reply to you in 1 working day. Free repair or replacement. Fully transferable. No invoice or receipt needed. No question asked, however, we do appreciate your feedback. We pay for shipping back to you. This warranty does not cover the product loss, theft, deliberate damage, abuse, misapplication or modification. This warranty does not apply to the electronic components or batteries. Anyway, two weeks later a nice shiny new Vector Optics Frenzy arrived in the post. Reckon I’ll be sticking with Vector for my next optic.

Going to be a bit of a wall (such a glorious wall that I'm scared the FBI is going to raid my house and throw me in jail), so I will add a TL:DR at the end with some key points for those who don't want/need to understand the physics and mathematics behind our hobby. Ok, so I've done a LOT of research into BB weight and ballistics due to my interest in long distance shooting in airsoft. Also, please bear in mind that this is, at the end of the day, a layman's explanation of this. I'm operating on A-level mathematics and GCSE physics here, and I haven't done them in about a decade. It's also really hard to explain this without a whiteboard or sheet of paper to draw diagrams and stuff, so bear with me I'll do my best to keep it accessible! So, the maths behind our hobby! Kinetic energy is calculated by 1/2 x mass x (velocity x velocity), using brackets as order of operations means we do the squaring before the multiplication but it's easier to show this way exactly what I'm doing. However we can't just translate that to airsoft measurements of fractions of a gram and feet per second, as joules are calculated using mass in kg so really really small numbers in our context and velocity in metres per second, not feet per second. So a 0.2g BB shot at 328fps, which is 100m/s would calculate as: Energy = 1/2 x 0.0002 x (100 x 100) Energy = 0.0001 x 10000 Energy = 1J Only reason I used 328fps instead of 350fps is to avoid plaguing you with weird numbers and make the example easier to follow. Really, feet per second is annoying and we should be using metres per second since it's easier to work with in terms of energy calculations. It's why springs are m100, m120 etc, as they're designed in m/s rather than ft/s. What we can take away from this is that mass and velocity work in tandem to calculate joules (I know, I'm big smart for drawing such a conclusion). However we need to briefly consider momentum to understand ballistics; my physics teacher always described momentum as "how much something will hurt when it hits you" and is a lot simpler than kinetic energy. Momentum = mass x velocity. Easy. I'm not going to bore you with the calculations I'm doing for this example now, but I'm looking at 1.14J on a .2 and on a .48 as a comparison. That's 350fps on a .2 and 226.1fps (1 decimal place) on a .48. We can already see that momentum is going to be very different, but for argument's sake... momentum = 350 x .2 = 70 gram feet per second momentum = 226.1 x .48 = 108.5 gram feet per second (1 decimal place) So a heavy BB fired with the same kinetic energy as a lighter BB has more momentum (just over 50% more!). This is why when someone point blanks you with a .48 from a 1J pistol and says "stop crying, it's only 1J" is talking bollocks. Do I think we should be operating on momentum-based rules for airsoft? Hell no, that would be cancerous, but it's a consideration that I feel comes under the golden rule of "don't be a dick". However, this also goes a LONG way to explaining why heavy BBs tend to go further than lighter BBs; they simply have more momentum pushing forwards due to how physics works (the old example was if I throw a balloon vs if I throw a cricket ball with the same kinetic energy, which goes further). However, there's one last thing to consider when it comes to range and that's deceleration, as the BB is being affected by a number of things trying to slow it down and drop it to the ground, namely air resistance and gravity respectively. Hop up creates a backspin to give the BB an upwards lift to combat gravity, but combating air resistance isn't happening. I won't go into the mathematics on this as deceleration past GCSE level is really maths intensive (I would probably have to break out calculus and trigonometric functions to explain my point), but essentially an object moving at a higher velocity has more air resistance acting on it, so that BB travelling faster actually has more pushback from Mother Nature than a slower BB. Furthermore, that air resistance is going to have more effect on a lighter weight projectile as lower mass makes it easier to push back, so a combination of higher air resistance and more impactful air resistance means that a lightweight BB fired at the same energy is going to slow down and lose that energy a hell of a lot faster than a heavy projectile. Anyway, I hope you're all still awake after that (I find it fascinating, but I know not everyone does), but now I'll move into airsoft specific phenomena like joule creep and cylinder to barrel ratio. With AEGs, it's rare that power goes up with weight but it is possible. I couldn't explain to you in detail how the maths works out, but essentially there's a sweet spot for ammo weight with most guns and it varies dependant on inner barrel length and cylinder size. What tends to happen is that shorter barreled AEGs are more efficient with heavier ammo, but longer barreled AEGs tend to drop in power with heavier BBs due to voluming issues; the cylinder doesn't have enough air to fill the barrel so the BB starts to decelerate while it's still in the barrel, meaning that a heavier BB that comes out slower originally will start to have forces working against it (friction with the barrel and air resistance) sooner by fractions of a second, but it all affects it. It all depends on if there's enough air in the cylinder to fill the barrel. Look up cylinder to barrel ratio for a better explanation than I can give; I don't use AEGs much and they're the only guns I don't tech myself because I'm useless with gearboxes. Also, as has been said, heavier ammo typically needs more hop pressure to be applied which can also drop your power (as at the end of the day you're adding some resistance to the BB's flight path. Assuming you have enough air volume in an AEG, or if you're using another platform like a GBB, then heavy ammo will typically cause your power to go up due to joule creep as long as you're not having to apply incredible amounts of hop to lift them. The BB will accelerate while it's in the barrel as long as there's something to push it, which for a gas gun is the gas expanding when it leaves the magazine, so a longer barreled gas rifle will have a higher power than a shorter barreled gas rifle as it has more space to accelerate before leaving the barrel; it's the same as real-steel firearms, a long barreled AR-15 will shoot better at longer range than a short barreled AR-15 assuming the same ammo due to acceleration in the barrel. So why am I saying any of this? Well, it's the considerations part of your question. With AEGs you need to consider cylinder to barrel ratio and with gas guns you need to consider barrel length. In both you need to consider the hop setup and how much you need to apply to lift the BB and the barrel diameter also impacts power; wider = less power, tightbore = more, as there's less space for air to escape past the BB in a tightbore so it has to push the BB out to escape the inner barrel, which at the end of the day is what the gun is trying to do with all that air and is why air seal is so important for consistency, as the air will seek to escape from wherever it can. Now in terms of the benefits, a heavier BB will tend to have a more stable trajectory, has a bit more punch to get through foliage and will retain its kinetic energy for longer, though we're talking about fractions here. Will a .32 be all that different to a .28? Not really, but will a .48 perform differently to a .2? It most certainly will but I think often times people over-estimate the difference in BB performance. Wind will still carry a .48 off to Narnia and a leaf will still deflect a .48; trust me, speaking from experience there as a bolt action enjoyer who has watched many shots through my scope go their own way because of wind or leaves in the way. Really, punching through foliage requires volume of fire as opposed to weight of BB and I think "go heavy to punch through foliage" is a false economy. Even my .48s fired at 2.3J have issues punching through foliage and I usually try to post the shots through empty spaces in the bushes rather than going through any leaves; precision over power. Anyway, I feel like I've gone on enough about this. Thank you for coming to my TED talk on BB weight and the physics behind our hobby. In short: Heavier BBs fired at the same kinetic energy as lighter BBs have more momentum, which is why it hurts more getting shot by heavy BBs, even at 1J Faster projectiles have more air resistance acting on them Lighter projectiles are more affected by air resistance Therefore lighter BBs travelling faster both have more air resistance acting on them and are more affected by said air resistance This means that heavy BBs will travel further as they have more momentum, less air resistance acting on them and are less affected by that air resistance (assuming your hop can lift them) Joule creep will cause power to go up in gas guns with longer barrels as the BB has more room to accelerate Cylinder to barrel ratio affects power (and consistency) in AEGs. Heavier BBs can up the power in short barreled AEGs, but tend to drop the power in long barreled ones If you want the absolute maximum performance of your gun you generally want to be as close to the power limit as possible with the heaviest BB that your hop will lift I will still call you a dick if you run .48s in a pistol, especially if you're shooting up close

If in doubt...give a shout👍 So you may have to take a walk to your respawn or dead zone or even take yourself out of play for 5mins. It's not the end of the world. But consider that the sniper who hit you from a distance saw the hit even if it had the impact of a tap on the shoulder. Don't be the one that the marshalls have a quiet word with. 🙂 Regards

*lose

And this absolute whanger, which is why I'm not blasé about "mid century history enthusiasts" with a very specific interest in lightning bolts and friendship windmills. I draw a distinction here between generic Wehrmacht or Rooshan, versus sporting ᛋᛋ or Z emblems. At an actual historic re-enactment event representing the totality of a conflict you can (but don't have to) make the "Well, someone has to do it" argument. At an airsoft skirmish, or even a milsim, that doesn't apply: it's always a conscious choice to go full fash. And the warning sign for me is not how long ago the events occurred, but whether the ideology behind them is still active now. And especially if it's still actively recruiting. If it is, then I'll always doubt the motives for choosing to display and promote it, regardless of any public protestations to the contrary.

If you didn't earn it, don't wear it.

Picked up some parts from a couple sellers here to build out my VFC into a vintage model, super happy with it

Just add a can of monster and a Dye mask for the perfect no girl will ever touch my pee pee loadout

Been putting this MWS based Mk12 together for a friend over the last month , no going back now 😛 and with my WE Mk12

Played another half day today and actually managed nearly all of it! There was only12 of us with 4 or 5 first timers but it was a really good day. They first timers were all young teenagers so it took them the 1st game to realise that it doesn't hurt when you get shot. Standard attack/defend games were played and by the time I had had enough there were some very good tactical manoeuvres emerging with fantastic comms being shouted. Pics below . . . That's my eldest daughter. Another proud father moment.