Pseudotectonic

At the end of the barrel you just want the heaviest BB you can afford to be travelling at the field limit FPS and at the correct hop amount which is neither overhopping nor underhopping And if you compare two systems tuned to deliver the exactly same exit projectile of above (an x gram BB moving at y FPS spinning at z RPM), you will find the system with the longer barrel will be more accurate and more consistent than the one with a shorter barrel, simply because all angular jitters of the exit vector are contained at a smaller angle of degree, plus the longer shape allows you to have more precise manual control over where it is aiming at biomechanically speaking, that is why I say for sniping you want a longer barrel to do the same job rather than a shorter barrel

yeah but are they sniping with it?

i think you are confused, heavier BBs can be accelerated with a shorter barrel than a lighter BB, but it doesn't mean a shorter barrel is more efficient than a longer barrel for the same heavy weight BB which you should be using anyway with a DMR if shorter barrel is better than longer barrel we'd be all sniping with .48s with a pistol

for aesthetics I wouldn't go less than 14.5" for a "DMR", a 16" would be even better inner barrel the longer the better (as long as the volume is matched)

Made this chart just for a fun way of scoring your accuracy Also potentially useful for extrapolating your accuracy at long range from a close up target like 5 meters Post your rank 😛

What manufacturing capability do you have? Or are you just distributors?

you know what, you can upgrade the spring

You are trying to upgrade a dollar store spring pistol Nobody can help you

They say if it looks like a duck, sounds like a duck, but gives off that uncanny vibe, it is probably chatGPT dabbling in phishing... ...or, a seriously unqualified marketing VP at some Taiwanese toy gun dealership came up with some AI generated marketing campaign and thinks it is a good idea. (Looks like they are a real shop, see google image, so I'd give them some benefit of the doubt) -- PS any affiliation with the UK retailer JD Airsoft?

500C heatgun didn't seem to remove the springiness on the compressed coils on my m90 Not even if I tried to get it to settle afterwards by compressing it for a week inside a torch It was nowhere near cherry colour tho, it did darken the bright shiny metal a little (could just be surface grease) -- I guess the 20 FPS loss from removing the bearing is actually because the rotational friction on the non-bearing side is slowing its decompression Try playing with a spring by hand, but twist it or keep it from spinning, the twisting itself is going to affect it wants to expand/compress, in fact you can try to compress/decompress the spring by the twisting alone

Just to add a note about the heatgun method, if I were to do it again I would do it in the middle part of the wider coil section (see image below) And I wouldn't make the spacing narrower than the existing narrow parts Because I did it on the narrow coils side and now when it compresses those coils can "bottom out" which I suspect is causing some very minor ringing noise after each shot (probably harmless, or maybe not even related) And if you do it in the middle section you won't oxidise the end coils flats (easier to clean up in middle) nor bottoming out the end coil And you will minimise the changes of any coils "bottoming out" by keeping some minimum spacing

yeah the logo is ASG brand, probably a glock 17?

In my case I've actually tried heated up one end of the spring (with 4-5 coils compressed with a pliers) and aimed a heatgun at it at 500C for like 10 seconds, and held it for a minute or two until it cools down, and after it cools down it keeps its shape in the compressed form (had to do several passes to get the shape right because of pliers being uneven and to get the FPS down enough) I ended up able to reduce the overall length from ~170mm to ~155mm and bring down my FPS from ~355 to ~340 which is hopefully more chrono friendly So yeah, heatgun worked for me, no cutting, and you can fine tune it gradually if you do it in several passes The ends are still flat, there was some very minor surface oxidisation which I buffed out with sandpaper, but the original end coil flats are still there

Weird It looks to me it will still interfere because the groove on your selector plate doesn't look deeper than the 1.12 mm that you need, because the upper surface is supposed to be touching the gearbox surface when installed, so the grooves need to be deeper than your protruding bearing to go over it But, you can just swap the bearings around, put the thicker one below and the thinner one above, problem solved And just to check, you haven't inserted the bearings from the outside, right?

what gun? what battery? what charger? btw at 11.1V it is not fully charged, it should be closer to 12.6V when full