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Well, it was inevitable We had to ban a player last weekend A fresh face and had been out regularly for the last 3 weeks. A chap who can’t handle the adrenaline that gets through his veins. Visit number two for him and he was told to slow down & calm down, over aggressive play and blind firing with his AA-12 later that day, he full auto rinsed me in the face from about 10 meters, again blind firing, another warning was issued. Second from last game of the day that day and his adrenaline was obviously off the chart, he was over shooting a player and couldn’t hear the “HIT” shout from his target over the full auto noise of his AA-12, so a Marshall had to get his attention by shooting him in the ass full auto to get him to take his finger off the trigger! Eventually last weekend, again the AA-12 was out in full spaz mode, and he ignored 3 test shots from a marshal whilst he was 5 meters away from the site owner/operator A 4 week ban was handed out IF , if he comes back and does it again, it’ll be permanent. I have never seen anyone banned before , nor continue to be a knob even after a warning. He said the decision to ban him was ridiculous, and that he would be taking his group of mates away with him. They stayed until the end of the day 😂

It's a G&G Combat Machine. They're a very popular model but DON'T buy that barrel. They are notorious for being overpriced and the black coating wears away. Get this one instead which is cheaper and better https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/inner-barrels/zci-inner-barrel-229mm (plus the store is run by one of our members @ak2m4). To be fair though, you don't actually NEED to upgrade it straight away. Use whatever you get for a while before you decide what needs changing.

I have these radios, they are really good. I do not pay for a license.. Much like my movies and music

Good, I'd like to see a lot more of this happening. I mean, I wish it didn't have to, but when it does, site owners should mean everything that they say regarding rules and consequences. We can all make mistakes, and get a bit of red mist on at times. But there are a very small number of excitable spunktrumpets who are incapable of or unwilling to play by the same rules and with the same good humour and restraint as everyone else, and ultimately the only way to deal with them is to make them some other hobby's problem.

Set up another email & PayPal account in a different name ?(maybe use middle names etc, your lot usually have half a dozen 😜), Scammers seem to be able to do it all the time with no repercussions ?, It's not like your planning anything illegal.

Do a lot of lurking so felt I should contribute something, even its just this pish. Glock triggers are wank, soft and mushy as my little man after 10 pints! Just did this to a mates so thought I would stick up a pic. 2.5mm hole, 3mm grub screw (6mm long in this case) and tap. By adding the grub screw you are preloading the trigger using the trigger bar. Spend the money you save on an adjustable trigger and get some stronger trigger springs for a better than the real one, pull and reset https://www.rainbow8.com/collections/glock-series/products/customized-production-steel-trigger-level-spring-150-for-marui-g-series The hop up and thus barrel sit very loose on the frame, by adding some shimming (in this case self sticking steel shim tape) to the frame where the hop unit locks in to you can remove 99% of the play thus leading to be much more accurate. Go slow, fit the hop and barrel to the frame without the slide and outer barrel and leave it loose enough so you can still disassemble. For shimming you can use just about anything paper/card with glue even fuzzy side Velcro. Will post up the barrel drop mod next time i do it if anyone cares. Any mods you could share and add some value to this post? Cheers big ears.

potentially, a bad mesh means more load on the motor which will drop the peak rpm. how much you'd be losing depends on a lot of factors such as the motor power, battery, and how tight it is. you get the same effect with tight shimming, and it'll lead to things like a hotter running motor, more carbon from the contacts etc. kinda like trying to drive your car with the handbrake on.

the click is less damaging than the grinding whirr. stalling a motor out does draw more current than the motor running normally, but for the half second run time needed to check engagement it's generally not an issue. yep, she'll sound/feel less labored. it's a hard thing to describe really as every gun can end up sounding different. i've had boxes ran like silk seemingly no matter what you do to them and others that getting them to sound smooth was a losing battle.

Reported too

They're not though. If you follow the process through to checkout they won't actually let you pick a shipping method to complete the process. Also, if your local field has a 350FPS limit then the "Medium" option would put you over anyway. You'd need the "Low 320FPS" option. If you could actually get it, which you can't.

I have found that 90% of players at my site use the Baofeng uv5r cracking little piece of kit, had mine for 3 years used it twice 😂

LEVEL UP YEAAAAAAAHHHHHHH although not sure how happy i am being a collaborator. makes me sound like i'm french.

Hello, Had a look at the gun suggestion guides on here but they are quite old and out of date now. I recently bought a Cyma AK CM040c but I as soon as I held it I knew it wasn't for me. The weight was fine and it was built very solid I must admit but something personal to me just felt "off". What are some good go tos now? People keep recommending Specna Arms because they come with mosfets already, some people talk about G&G but I used one of the CM16 raiders as a rental 3 times. It felt nice and worked but it did lack range and accuracy. Do G&G do good guns which are a step above those? I am open to all suggestions but unfortunately the long CYMA ak was just not for me. Cheers!

Amaze. I remember one game I didn't play but saw where white scars vs tau army. Whole biker army trys to flank around tau and leave nothing for them to shoot at (tau shoot. Bikes chop. Bikes need to get close so it's and excellent tactic) but the tau knew and was able to set up and compleately block Bikes even entering the table and win via default... dirty dirty tactic... I had the opportunity to do that myself once and deny table space with my bid horde and did tell my opponent after he got cheeky what I could do and there was nothing he could do to stop that. He quickly wised up but the next month started copying my army... he never did as well as I did though. To be fair the stores would do a walk through game and do teaching sessions of games and building etc. But it's the smaller skirmish games that are far more interesting. I worked in a nerd shop briefly and got to try out a few and tried making my own once (zombie game) it's fun to game from a different perspective especially dice ones where rng is compleately visible. There's even ones where more like dungeons and dragons you keep you team for following games and damage and such impacts play and next games. Eg my heavy gunner getting shot in the head but not dying and intact becoming psychotic and trying to smash anyone with his gun... the odds are tiny but happened with his replacement too...

This is admittedly a little biased from me but how about... https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/double-eagle-m904e-fire-control-system-edition?pv=15411 ... which for the price I'm totally blown away by and love using. Plus points... # Programmable (to a small degree) optical MOSFET included, you can setup a hair trigger and the three shot / burst auto is good as well. # The gearbox shell has been radiused so will last a little longer. # It has a quick change spring.

Yup the rules are constantly changing between the main rules and army specific rules. A large degree of that is to drive sales rather than have the perfect game which they have had in a few of their smaller game systems like nexromundia which is a small skirmish version but 20 would pay for all the models you'd need for such where as they want you to expand and expand. Can easily spend 1000s on army's. From when I actively played the meta in the tournament scene changed monthly. And learning your own stuff wasn't enough you needed to know everyone else's tricks to know where mis interpretation existed. Iv used cheaters misknowledge against them to stunning effect purely cause I figured out how they were trying to cheat and yhe judges were on their side so I let em. Lol. Generally no but when I last was active I was getting into playing with putty and making a few parts rather than buying. It's mostly buying the various kits. What's better though is with 3dprinters and kickstatter and improvement in tech is that the competitors have caught up with games workshop and alit is changing just unfortunately games workshop is still the best and most innovative and expensive with their monopoly and ip policy protection.

tighten it all the way in, try to fire, keep loosening it incrementally until it's as quiet as it's going to be. don't start with the motor out- this might lead to stripped gears, worst you can do with it too tight is stall the motor which isn't a problem unless you hold the trigger down and heat everything up. while you're doing this be conscious of wether or not the motor is "sticking" in its mounts, ie that when you're loosening the adjustment the motor is in fact moving out. if it still sounds like it ate a bag of gravel then the problem is more complex, either motor angle (eg for m4's with aftermarket grips), the pinion/bevel tooth profiles mismatch (very common when changing motors) or the bevel isn't shimmed correctly (which is why some folks start at the bevel and work up when shimming)

Hi, ALL! Just made a purchase for a new BDU, something simple, a cheeki breeki navy Adidas tracksuit! 🤞😆 “Bad Guy” Loadout unlocked! 😂 💷GAMBLE💷

The early Specnas which later got rebranded as the "One Series" were OEM'd by E&C. They were great (mine is still going strong after 5 years of reasonably heavy use). It was the introduction of a new OEM for the Core and Edge series with the introduction of the Orion gearbox that let them down. Early models of THOSE were problematic but as you say, they listened to the issues being raised and went out and fixed them. I'm still not convinced they're as good as the E&C gearboxes but they're as good as pretty much anything else in that price range.

Fair enough, was worth a shot. 👍 💷GAMBLE💷

My TM 417 (tuned by a Scottish chap) can hit a zit on someone’s nose at 80m. How do I know this? I paced 80 large steps to a tree and then fired at it. Oh the zit was the size of Captain America’s shield. 🤷🏻‍♂️ 😂😂😂 It’s not impossible. It can be done with the right tuning. But at the end of the day the laws of physics apply.

Wild stab in the dark, the mosfet your Scarab is fitted with has active braking. That'll do it.

I have shot 65m confirmed on a range with an out the box cyma M14. It possible took me 8 shots to get the hit though.

Aye in the few years i took ff most of my models have been made near obsolete to the point of stupidity, the bits ive been reading up on recently mostly have further confused me but i feel what i do now will be more cause i like the models' rather than wanting win at all costs armys. think instead ill work on a few lore trinkets to build into airsoft loadouts like chaos star and purity seals but will see as one of my mates has a few he plays with.

As above, very little value associated with "3x low cap magazines + 2x 7.4v batteries + 1x full bottle of ASG .25s BBs I think 3300 + Also a gun bag." As such I would rather pay £450 for a new one than £400 for a second-hand one I'd need to collect.

It'll be shimmed to a usable standard from the factory, good enough to use. Like all AEG's don't expect it to be perfect though, even with a reshimming perfection is difficult to achieve. It's just the nature of the design, the tolerance, the factory process etc. However I just tried, there's no way to enter a shipping method to the UK

Also, I'd be concerned that they're putting shipping risks on the customer which means if it fails to turn up they'll do all they can not to give you a refund. A cheap RIF is only cheap RIF if it turns up. Sometimes it's worth buying from the UK for piece of mind as there's no import charges or surprises from Customs (either financial or physical), not to mention sorting warranty issues is a whole lot easier.

Always read the item description VERY carefully 😉

£30 and up now for some single models. Utterly bonkers. And the resale value of your armies might be close to zero, as it really does seem like GW have a policy of "if it's not the latest version, from the latest Codex, don't bring it to a tournament or shop". Heck, last time I played 40K it was with a box of knock off "Space Rangers" which cost a whopping £10 for a box of 50 at the time. I hit them with a rattle can of white gloss, an ink wash, and a few licks of gunmetal, and was good to go. Now I think GW would take out a restraining order if I brought them within 2 miles of a store. https://em4miniatures.com/products/space-rangers?variant=31784032698486

I bought a couple of Delta Mike Face Pro Snoods for myself and my son, we've been using the big clunky Nuprol Mesh Lower Face Shield V3's as I'm a bit paranoid about protecting our face and ears, and last night I properly tried mine out and it's a revelation. With the Nuprol ones being so big and clunky when I looked directly down I saw almost nothing as they obscure my vision, going down the stairs at Z-Mart in Newbury is more luck than skill and I couldn't properly look at my chest rig either. Now I can see so clearly when looking down, and it feels like my breath isn't now being directed upwards into my goggles. I'm just worried now about getting hit on the nose and ending up looking like a drunken Irish stereotype.

yes so respectively the top army is space marines, humanitys finest fighting back the horrors of the universe. the second is tyranids, xenomorphic aliens intent on consuming everything. there are many other races and armys and a libary of books and back storys and rules and lore. models rance from few £ for some of those smaller ones to character ones now at 20, tanks are around 30, bigger ones 50 to 100, oh and then theres the resin specials... Mars Pattern Warlord Titan Body | Forge World Webstore- thats not including guns oh and not only paint but asssemble clean moldlines remove mould relesease agents etc... and decorate and so onthen if you decode to play somehow box up in foam and move in a way you dont break them....

The 74N is the best looking AK. Really want to get one myself at some point.

Here's BadaBing Pictures first impressions of the TM AKM

just a few of mine from years ago. its scary if i costed up this stuff in todays money as back when i was playing ida bought a kit every few weeks on my part time job to keep me ticking over in my free time. all those £20s add up... easily 1000s of quidds worth but would nowhere near be worth as resale unfortunately.

Purchased a lovely E&L. Don't plan on doing anything to it modifications wise, perfect just as it is 🍑

I'm modelling a reasonably accurate V2 GB (+/- 0.1mm) in F360 to use for an own-design receiver project. Took a few 1mm test prints to get the footprint measurements dialed-in Progress so far - I won't need all the details (not bothering with bushings and screw holes etc.) but I will model the trigger hole, rear pin hole, grip frame slot/holes, and the selector area on the other side.

I'm a mix when it comes to my wearable kit. I try to keep to the "norm" but I modify alot of it as we're not in real combat so some protective parts are binned to save weight /increase my movement. Most milsim (yet to actually do one) request for a certain uniform and type of dress which is annoying but il get over it (it's a military simulation after all). So depends on the site I play at but I'm a sheep when it comes to the clothing. Multicam y fronts... The lot. I only buy something new when I feel my current item is on the fringes of its lifespan or before it doesn't work as it has done for x amount of years. I try not to sell my old kit if I can but if there is demand then... I don't collect airsoft guns I use them for their intended purpose. Summary: if its not working then try something new and keep the old stuff to go back to/reflect on when doing comparisons and don't be shy to be both a sheep or a pioneer.

I'm definitely a Cat 2. I literally sold off my entire gun rack and bought another collection to replace it, each gun only being skirmished once However I'm trying to make a few guns that I will rely on above the others.

At least my F2000s kinda work.

fornction furm functorm nope, not getting it

on one hand you've got form, right, and on the other, function, yeah?. put them together.... fun. think about it. edit: in all seriousness i actually prefer to have a large collection of extremely expensive items.

you are the exception that proves the rule. in this case someone who's happy with neither form nor function in fairness i suppose someone has to do it.....

90% of most forum and group content is people chewing the well gummed fat. I take it as a sign of trouble, that the seller either doesn't really want to sell, or is lazy and reactive (which has ominous implications for them actually posting it). You're going to have to figure it out anyway, so why not do it before you list? Usual advice for buyers, ask for a PayPal invoice listing the goods, postage and total amount that you'll be paying. Sellers, work this out in advance, and calculate how much you need to ask for in order to get what you want in your pocket. Don't make a buyer do this for you: the fees are being taken off what you receive, not added on to what they pay.

Picked up this pretty tidy GHK G5 from a forum member yesterday Fortunately, we both live in the same town so was able to pick it up 😃

New belt set up

Aug hbar now basically done bar making the bipod pretty and building a whole lot of extended mags for it. Got the proper 3x scope now. Not bad considering that for £150 Ive built this and a second para carbine style aug out of what i got. Both working beautifully. Also very happy with how my use of spraypaint has improved. This gun used to be blue but I got a very nice finish on it. Also since we seem to be showing off antique sewing machines now heres a couple I have laying around in my workshop

Job done. Perfect, tight fit first time (wasn't expecting that, hence the Red filament as I'm running low on black). Will print a black one shortly now I know the tolerances and fitment work.

A mate needed a thumb-saver reloading thingy for his Hi-Capa mags. 10 minutes in Fusion 360, and 40 minutes on the printer later, it worked out pretty good.

Not exactly as polished as what’s being shown off in this thread but… Got really frustrated reloading my new HPA DMR build so necessity being the mother of innovation, this happened