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Just got this. Another for the revolver collection. Its a tanaka saa bisley. The holster came with it. Ill be making a much prettier one soon.

Lol, I should have known not to trust an internet translation site 🤬💩

£1200. Twelve hundred quid? One thousand, two hundred of your English pounds? Who on God's green Earth would pay that, for that bundle? If you had £1200 to spend on second airsoft, just think of what a package you could put together by buying from multiple sources. Or even £1200 new!!!! £1200!!!!! 😱 https://airsoft-forums.uk/classifieds/item/15455-job-lot/

going by the first uk site on google to claim to have stock i'd say so: https://www.onlybbguns.co.uk/aps-uarb-urban-assault-rifle go to twg it's £125 (plus postage, spinning widdershins 3 times so it won't be blocked at the channel and sacrificing your firstborn to the tax man) even if it's got an asg infinity in there that's still steep.

Unless they have this price scale...

Owing to the nature of Gas power they are better performing as a DMR than an AEG powered one would be, froma an energy transfer point of view. Obviously they are not magical so will not perform as well as a proerly sorted BASR. IMO and experience, fully worked airsoft guns generally are capable of the following measured EFFECTIVE RANGE; 500 fps BASR - 95M 430 fps MWS DMR - 80M 430 fps AEG DMR - 75M 340 fps AEG - 65M

I’ve just made lots of REALLY stupid decisions !🤦‍♂️

My Cyma MP5 & My R28 Kimber Warrior hiding there. Both a project of repair lol

Parts back from FMJUK, I think I can finally call these two HiCapas finished!

Right peeps Just ordered a kwa mp9. The mp9 Supressor and also a primary Airsoft HPa mag . Any thing I should know or do ??

Wait you’re supposed to solder through the heatshrink!? 🙈

Oh yea it still happens all the time but I just suppress it and compartmentalise it.

you just keep telling yourself that you'll remember until, when you least expect it, you'll forget

haha my trusty irons a £25 ebay 200w adjustable jobby that i use a med/fat tip *only cause i used the other tips as punch for getting a link out on my bikes chain when my chain tool broke* lol but it works and has soldered some decent gauge wire aswell haha ahh yes the heat shrink first amount of times ive had to desolder and resolder cause of that loool!!!

Roughly translated mean I can make a mug of myself

wow, 1200 would buy you a LOT of shiny gat.

This is the tool eagle6 use in their videos for the MWS, so I’m thinking about buying one of these, they’re around £20. Grinding along the yellow line until it fits inside the DD rail, and welding a new handle on to it where black arrow is pointing, but that is assuming the castle nut is the same diameter in the mk18 and the teeth fit nicely.

haha aye *epic film*!

was more for the jam protection i was gonna throw it in ther but will go the hard wired route on it when something breaks and have a reason to open her up as really dont fancy trying to add a diode lol

Great minds think alike!

Lol, he's at it again, definitely a dreamer

I thought the MWS MK18 rail is already FDE/tan/bronze or whatever in colour already?

Another chancer pray tell or not ?

amen brother

"never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by incompetence" cheap gun with a bit of tlc can be a right laugh, still have my wee jg ticking along rightly even if it looks a little worse for wear these days.

yes that's the one i meant, i'm gonna blame gate's naming schemes rather than my bad memory

yeah ididnt think it would be quick spring yeah have seen a few vids on taken those ones apart now i think ill just wait like u said no point taken 2 apart and having non on the go oh i know bud its more for the future dmr i plan to build but would throw in the 516 till i start that yeah bud will be keeping it simple just now just the piston change on the 621 then when shit breaks ill replace as an when needed

Duty is a minor percentage, probably 2% 20% VAT would be due on both methods On £260 you could save £5.20 at 2% duty by getting separate packages The level of handling fees could vary, usually a minimum of £8 So by getting separate packages you might save £13.20, but you would pay double in postage With the single package there is always the possibility that it doesn’t get picked up on entry and you get away with no charges

Pretty much all parts are 'compatible', but what really makes everything work properly is awareness of the fit and range of motion of things. To that end a great gearbox is ultimately the sum total of being aware, observant and having patience - all of which are free. Other than that some measuring combined with a file and sand/emery paper will make everything compatible. Sealing of things with PTFE tape works for cheap if you have limited parts.

Well as explained (briefly - *sarcasm) the KIT offers excellent value - nuff said but as explained the nozzle may wobble the piston "might" bind (it might not) the cylinder only available in full or half type (as said you got the correct cylinder in there about 3/4 though at times the type in fractions or type A-B-C-D is a bit vague I prefer to measure the distance of port to front say 43mm) The piston head is alloy - but a good type for compression yet some prefer lighter and possible less risk of scratching POM piston head (I've always said give same gun to say 10 techs and they will all have their preferences of what to change, what keep etc... how far to take stuff on what budget etc...) waffling again The kit offers very good value - don't think anybody can deny that (price it up separately & see for yourself) The issue is one or two components might not be best suited as is for the Cyma v2 (nozzle is one example, it might fit OK but RA is oem SHS so reckon it will be a little loose) Don't get me wrong - you could buy just the basic Cyma piston & new o-ring AND the KIT for a future gun or if the other gun went tits up and you was fine doing some minor checking/minor modding to ensure it went together OK I'm just pointing out the options and the value in the kit (get full cylinder perhaps & you can make it ported if you wished to your spec) I'm not saying deffo get the kit - I don't know what your budget of toy gun shit is (especially in January after Chrimbo cleared you out) If funds are tight just get the piston & o-ring if you're OK or had money to splash then get kit as well PERHAPS Now at risk of pissing Pete off - he's gonna fucking kill me you could ask Pete via pm/facebook or whatever to measure the piston between the rails to check dimensions and see if it is much thicker than Cyma or a bit thinner than SHS pistons that often bind in some boxes (that way you might know if it will bind or just need a light sand to glide smoothly) it's not just between the rails, but the rails themselves how much they protrude but some pistons bind a bit & some bind a lot that effects its efficiency (even risks PME) SHS pistons I have are 19mm between rails (a smidge under/over at either end) Cyma metal rack pistons are say 18.15mm aprox with the pinky ones being 18.4mm to 18.55mm say (so as said they sit inbetween SHS & Cyma pistons) I dunno what Pete's XT or even ZCI pistons are but highlighting why some pistons bind in some boxes etc... The XT piston could be fine, not as fat as bindy SHS I really don't know - but SHS can bind in Cyma/JG's and Cyma pistons can be a little wobbly in say a G&G box for my liking as said this "Tokyo Marui Compatible" is more like compatible-ish at the best of times yeah might need a "slight" mod there m8 I mean for starters to see if I'm talking out my arse a sec you can grab some plumber's ptfe tape wrap around 7 wraps around the cylinder head and retest to check seal (it is a BODGE, but does work if done neatly - trim off excess with scalpel etc...) the o-ring, you can remove and wrap it around the outside of cylinder to stretch it (some warm the rubber, some leave it on cylinder for weekend/week to naturally stretch a little) but a new better fitting o-ring is best as the Cyma one is a bit small to begin with do that crap - test compression, see if it improves for next to nothing heck you can test for leaks at cylinder head in a bowl/sink of water looking for puncture (nozzles will never seal 101% as they gotta move freely so will blow slightly under pressure even with an o-ring or double o-ring or they struggle to glide free & smoothly) see if that improves compression but you will need a new or stretched o-ring at least to check compression (coz the std one is a bit shit) and the cylinder head OMG Cyma it is as loose as fuck - plenty ptfe required but can do the trick on budget without buying numerous bits that you don't REALLY need to (Just Cyma - the fucking head is a bit too loose compared to some makes) You can get by with mostly stock stuff and get these to sing quite well (like Luke at NA does so often) I've covered the extra work regarding SHS nozzle & tappet plate in Cyma's I normally use plastic cylinder heads if I can get them to seal well others will replace with alloy head etc... then some nozzles are a too tight fit on some spouts or vice versa so then I might change stuff around or go to plan B etc... again waffling & over thinking shit, but I got a box of bits n bobs spares to swap shit around I'm giving you the heads up, what options there are and offering you the simple straight forward approach plus mindful of not buying more stuff than is really necessary to get it going too As said, not wishing to piss Pete off (much) but say if he popped the XT piston in say a JG v3, Cyma v3 if he hasn't a Cyma v2 shell to hand (that's another fucking annoying thing about Cyma v2's, they got a smaller cylinder window that a bare piston won't fit through on its own like most v2's to test if a piston might bind) if the piston doesn't bind in a JG/Cyma v3 box then chances are it "shouldn't" bind in Cyma v2 if that be the case you could buy the kit and use most of it - nozzle might not wobble (but think it might) but use most bits - though get a couple of o-rings - one for the other gun at some point As for the other gun - if it shoots OK then LEAVE IT ALONE you could swap barrel/hop/bucking combo over to test/try if they are similar length but I'd avoid stripping down both or fucking around too much - always leave one gun working (plus if it ain't broke (or not too bad) then don't try to fix it)

i have the sd6 blue edition must say i have ha zero isues with the stock.

Could be worth considering the GATE Aster as an alternative to the Titan? It's still an optical mosfet like the titan, just stripped down in funcitonality. It can be programmed to different sensitivities and firing modes, but on it's default setting it's quite nice and smooth. My Specna H20 has one in, and while there were initially teething problems with them, the units leaving now are are great by all accounts.

Haha it was the only rule in Goldeneye multiplayer! I loved the Proximiy grenads

There was only one rule back then: NO ODDJOB!

Lol, I'm with you mate, must be a "people of a certain generation" thing, I'd like to say I've learned from my mistakes, but that would be a big fat porky 🐷

had to bring back my fav gun from my collection, all custom made from a donor pps mosin

Interesting news on this “bullying” comment you made, a chap has been charged by the fbi for entering the capitol uninvited(how rude). Inciting people to burn the building down. the twist, he is a BLM activist and anti trumpist so your crackpot may have a point. just posting as a point of interest as the news in the states get more unbelievable by the day

Yep, they look likely to be the one. Thanks guys. It was frustrating that I couldn’t find out what it was. I knew someone on here would know 😉

Just looking what’s cheap and not just private sellers over inflating prices.

Yes this is most common fail, basically pneumatic lock “Seems like the hop might have caused a BB to jam than actual speed which resulted im PME piston shredding” One of the reasons 6.00 / 6.01 barrels are daft too. Dirty jam.

Didn't win anything - just guesswork but we've all broke shit lots of times in many different ways THIS is my favourite of favourite pic that sums up diagnosing shitty bastid toy gun issues.... poor OP won a fucked piston & lost his posting ability whilst having to wade through all my crap instead - ouch that's gotta hurt

Worked for me back in the Goldeneye 64 days 😁

It's OEM'd by A&K so it's their gearbox. As you say though there are no internal mosfets but you can get external ones that are programmable to give semi on initial trigger pull then auto after a short dwell. I used to use a Burst Wizard on mine for that very reason. Thing is though that apart from the (frankly rubbish) "lightweight" models an M249 (even the para version) is hugely impractical for a CQB setting purely down to the size and weight of it.

From the video it looks a clone of the CAM249 gearbox (PGC style). I think your mosfet options would be limited to external ones, so any semi would be timing based rather than detection of gear rotation. As far as I know, nobody makes an internal GB mosfet for the 249, but happy to learn otherwise. Alternatively you could look at either the G&P M249 or the FN Herstal licenced versions which I believe both use V2 gearboxes - that would then open up your mosfet options to Titans, BTC Spectre, etc. Or, even easier, just get a pistol and transition on the semi-only parts of the site...

My Lee's precision engineering adapter came today so I can fit my MK23 silverback supressor to my MTW!! I'm quite pleased with how it looks! A bit different to the KAC one I've been using! That can be my CQB one 😂

it probably says a lot about me that i need reminding that instagram exists.....

Currently either my Saab swapped Astra, or my 9-5 Aero, If my 9-3 TTiD would start I'd drive that too 🤣 If I find the motivation, I'll hopefully be driving this once I've rebuilt it