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Shizbazki

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Shizbazki last won the day on August 25 2017

Shizbazki had the most liked content!

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About Shizbazki

  • Rank
    AF-UK Veteran

Profile Information

  • Guns
    G&P LVOA Salient M4 (P*)
    GHK M4 Mod1
    APS CAM 870 Salient
  • Loadouts
    Full Multicam
    Kryptek Typhon
  • Sites
    Dragons Lair Airsoft
    Red1CQB
    Billericy
    AWA Herts
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    London

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  1. Shizbazki

    THE TM MWS thread

    So last night i received my Prometheus 6.03mm tightbore 370mm inner barrel, with my Laylax hop up arm in hand i decided to have a go at install them in the MTR16. Managed to get the receivers apart, BCG out, flash hider, front rail and faux gas block, EASY. Then came a hour of headache (is it really airsoft modding if there is ever no headache? 🤔) I spent the best part of an hour trying to remove the first castle nut with an armourers wrench and heat gun. Only once the receiver itself was too hot to handle with bare hands would the first castle nut move, they it was a simple pull of the next piece AND then ANOTHER FREAKING CASTLE, BIGGER THAN THE LAST!!! I had to heat the receiver up so much i was worried shit would start melting, how much thread glue did TM use, a whole bottle 🥵 Second Boss castle nut removed, and some wiggling for the outer barrel and finally i could access the hop. I decide to measure the width of the Laylax one and compare it to stock, both were 6.75mm wide perfect. New barrel in (checked for QC and it was spot on), new hop arm in and reassemble which thankfully didn't take too long. After all that the result, FPS wise a bit disappointing, didn't get the FPS improvement i was hoping for. STOCK on .20g BBs she was firing around 1 to 1.1 joules or about 330 to 335FPS Upgraded barrel and Hop Arm i was getting 1.2 joules or around 355 to 360FPS I was hoping at least to hit 380 to 400FPS and then use the NPAS to dial it up further. So some questions: Was i expecting too much going from a 250mm to a 370mm inner barrel? Should that extra 120mm length have made a bigger difference or is it what you would expect? My only reason is that when i owned a KWA Vector, stock it was shooting 380FPS, but screwing on the suppressor (which acted as a 150mm inner barrel extension) pushed the FPS to over 450FPS As for range and accuracy i cant tell as i have a tiny garden, but i hope i didn't lose too much of the fairy dust in the hop, i was very careful. My NPAS hopefully will arrive soon so i am hoping i can volume up the MTR 16 to output at least 420 to 430 FPS.
  2. Shizbazki

    THE TM MWS thread

    Many thanks to those who assisted me in my MTR16 G-Edition DMR quest. So having perused Google based on your suggestions i have made the following decisions. Inner Barrel - I ummed and arghed about this between going for a Maple Leaf Crazy Jet 370mm and a Prometheus 6.03mm 370mm inner barrel. In the end i decided on the Prometheus 6.03mm 370mm barrel, my rationale for this was that it is only slightly tighter than the stock and the length meant that i could keep the original muzzle flash hider. Plus i have only heard good things about Prometheus. In an ideal world if money was no object or i could find one in stock (UK Side) i would have been happy to buy the a PDI or EdGI barrel too. https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/prometheus-603mm-eg-inner-barrel-for-m4a1-mws-370mm Nub - Whilst i understand that everyone loves the SixG nub, that its well made and precise, i think i could probably get away with the Laylax hop arm. I dont plan in shooting higher than 0.40g BBs, plus i already havethe Laylax one at home now rather than have to wait for the SixG one to be made. Perhaps further down the line i might order two, one for my TM M4 MWS and the other for this MTR16. https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/first-factory-strike-hop-arm-for-marui-m4a1-mws NPAS - So in my quest to find an adjustable NPAS system, i knew of the RA-Tech one but discovered that G&P also made an adjustable one too but had 4 different colours and numbers: Red 5, Gold 4.5, Blue 4 and Green 3.5. With no information on a) how they work and b) what was the power output of each one i decided to give them a miss. My only understanding was that Red was the strongest output with a 5mm opening, and downwards. In the end i stuck with RA-Tech and managed to source an NPAS valve. http://emperionstore.com/npas-kit-for-tokyo-marui-mws-gbb-ra-tech.html My plans are to install both the inner barrel and Laylax arm first, see how she shoots in terms of FPS, then put the NPAS in. So any glaring errors??🤔
  3. Shizbazki

    THE TM MWS thread

    I know this is an MWS dedicated thread but i think the MTR so similar it is internally, they are essentially the same gun expect for a few bits. Just got an MTR16 and i intend to make a few mods to it to make it a DMR build, i dont mind spending a bit, just want to spend wisely. I know i ill probably have to change part of the hop but i really want to try to avoid spilling some of that TM fairy dust. I plan to be shooting .30g and above BBs. I am aiming around 430FPS on .20g BBs as my local sites are around 450FPS so i am factoring gas variations and joule creep, currently the MTR16 is shooting the standard 1 joule on .20g. Got a few questions Will an NPAS such as the RA-Tech NPAS help me in pushing up the FPS? I've noticed that the inner barrel stops some 3 inches shorter of the outer barrel, would a longer or tighter inner barrel help up that FPS? What is the preferred choice here, The SixG nub or the all in one Laylax hop arm (i already have one), i don't mind and may even prefer using the stock TM rubber? My thoughts are: Change the stock barrel with tight bore barrel that is longer than the stock 250mm one, this should in theory up the FPS (right?) Change the stock arm entirely and replace it with the Laylax arm to allow me to lift heavier BBs. Get the RA-Tech NPAS in case the above mods put me over 450FPS so i can tweak it down or if the FPS is a tad too low so i can turn it up. Thoughts TIA
  4. Taser with an "S" not "Z". Thomas A Swift's Electric Rifle Sorry it really grinds my gears
  5. Shizbazki

    THE TM MWS thread

    Currently i have the HSGI Taco pouches for my MWS Mags
  6. Brownells is probably your best bet for RS Magpul stuff. ITAR is annoying as hell, i mean some of the stuff yeah definitely ITAR. But Revision Desert Locust Goggles, really!?
  7. I have a TM M92FS and TM Albert W Model 01P (essentially a TM M9A1). With my TM M92FS i had quite the opposite. The Safety lever was really smooth and when i flicked the left side down the hammer would not decock, when i pressed the right side down it did. My TM Albert W Model 01P has no such issues. I have added the link to the TM M9A1 instruction manual and will use part numbers so we are both on the same page (no pun lol): https://www.tokyo-marui.co.jp/pdf/p_pdfmanual_191002135400.pdf Scroll down to page: 19 Can you flick the safety lever back and forth smoothly when the slide is off the pistol? As you do this look at the underside of the pistol and you will see a small sliver of metal (Part no M9A1 - 19) moving up and down as you operate the safety lever. When in safe it protrudes a little until it is flush with the flat block on its right, when in shoot, it recesses. This sliver of metal engages with a notch in the trigger group that stands proud. It is the black (not silver) one to the right of the hammer (Part no: M9A1 - 52) if you were looking at the pistol from the back. Essentially what happens is that if the hammer is cocked (as in at the rear position) and you engage safety, that sliver of metal (Part no M9A1 - 19) goes from recess to proud and pushes down on that notch (Part no: M9A1 - 52) which disengages the hammer de-cocking the gun. You can try it yourself by taking the slide off, cocking the hammer back and then pressing down on this notch and the hammer should de-cock and flick back forwards. The likelihood is that the spring (Part no: M9A1 - 51) that operates the notch (Part no: M9A1 - 52) has bent awkwardly or there is something not sitting right with the notch (Part no: M9A1 - 52). This will require a complete disassembly of the trigger group taking special care to remember how parts go back in, realigning the notch, whilst its all open may as well clean and re-grease and putting the stuff back. Im no airsoft tech and the first time i took the trigger group of my TM M92FS i put back together quite easily even without the manual and its blow up diagrams. Oh and don't force it down, you can and will break the safety levers or the cam which operates it.
  8. I don't think Polarstar will be too pleased you're making moves on his missus 🤣 On a more serious note, if you can go after the Redline SFR if you can get one, worst case scenario will be importing one from the US, check out Amp[ed airsoft as they are the go to HPA specialists. I will say one thing about Redline, great customer service even when its like 5am US time they got back to me and sent me a replacement part free of charge.
  9. Shizbazki

    HPA or Gbbr

    HPA or GBBR? I have both. In the HPA world i have an M4 with Polarstar Fusion Engine, when i built it and ran it i though nothing could surpass it, then i played around with someones TM NGRS and realised that my gun as great as the shot to shot consistency was, as accurate as it was and as fast as the rate of fire was. Without recoil it felt like it had no soul. I ended up getting a GHK M4and whilst nice, it did need tweaking so replaced it with a TM MWS which i absolutely freaking love, its everything my HPA system is apart from the lower rate of fire, but accuracy is on point as is shot to shot consistency but that kick is fun! Only issue with the TM MWS is lower ammo count, but i think that makes you a better player as you tend to better pick your shots rather than spray and pray. I think if you play almost exclusively CQB then may be a TM MP7 GBBR might be a better option, its small, compact and is ideal for CQB. As for Tippmans, i have never owned one so cannot comment on it.
  10. I must say i think i am in the same boat. AEGs just dont excite me anymore, HPA was nice when i had it but GBBRs make me smile. If i had a £500 voucher i would would like it for Brownells and get a Magpul LA Remington 700 stock.
  11. I owned a WE M9, thing was a poor performer out of the box and regularly gas dumped. I also owned a KSC M93R it was an ok performer but needed japanese spec BBs which are a tad smaller than 5.95mm diameter. I have also bought an AW EMG SAI DS2011 (basically a hi capa) and that too out of the box was a poor performer, again gassing out and no accuracy whatsoever. I also bought a TM M92FS and out of the box it's hopping .28g BBs, straight like a lazer and most of the time out doing most AEGs, very gas efficient and more importantly consistent too. Yes the WE M9 cost me £100 but the TM one cost me £140 so yes it was more expensive. Yes the WE M9 was full metal and the TM one has a plastic slide, does that bother me, not in the slightest especially when you're in the middle of a firefight. The point i am making is like all the other people have pointed out. You moan that GBB Pistols are a pain because they never work and then go on to list several poor performing pistols. I run almost exclusively Gas be it GBB pistols or GBBRs but the one thing they all have in common is that they are made by Tokyo Marui. However i am not saying that TM are the be end of all they too do have their quirks, just they are easier to iron out.
  12. Oh Hi I totally forgot i posted this up haha. So the hop up chamber had to stay the same as its is unique to the Ares WA2000. As for the other parts i upgrade them with the following items: Hop up bucking - I tried both a PDI (https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/pdi-vsr-10-hop-up-rubber-w-hold-type) and LayLax (https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/laylaxnineball-hop-rubber-for-marui-vsrl96-and-marui-pistols-purple) one. After some testing i think the PDI one was better but marginally. The Cylinder head, Cylinder, Piston and Spring guide I got was from this set https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/pdi-precision-palsonite-cylinder-set-hd-for-marui-vsr-10 I must say very well machined and precision made. The Spring i used was this: https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/pdi-520fps-spring-for-marui-vsr-10-13mm-outer-diameter though i grinded it shorter to bring it down under 500fps on .20g BBs As for sears, i had to keep the trigger mechanism the same as its propriety, i would have preferred a 90 (or zero) degree trigger but that's just not possible in this rifle. I had to keep it 45 degree trigger sear and so upgradded the sear to a steel hardened, which was this one: https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/pdi-vsr-10--l96-piston-sear-2nd-sear I took it out to skirmish once to test it only, to be honest i didn't get very good test results as it was windy, the light was poor and was forced to use bio BBs and it was hard to see there trajectory, i also noticed that the BB loading tube is a very bad design as the plunger i think scratches the BBs which of course means that they dont fly properly. For now i have put this project rifle to bed and plan to probably get or make a 3d printed plunger so that the BBs dont get too scratched up. I also plan on using the Novritch .40BBs some day as they are a) better quality that the Bio BBs i was using and since they are white, should be easy to see on a decent day.
  13. Shizbazki

    THE TM MWS thread

    If your tank is rated for 4500PSI (around 300bar) then its rated for that pressure. Your local paintball place probably only has a compressor rated for 3000PSI (232Bar) so will only fill it to that much. Your best best bet is to go and buy a scuba tank rated at 300Bar, then take it to your nearest dive store that has a 300Bar compressor and make them fill it. Once they fill it you need a "Fill Station" mostly likely with a DIN Fitting which you attach to the scuba tank and basically you fill up from the scuba tank using it as a massive reservoir. I have a 12litre 300Bar tank t hat costs me less than £10 to fill and it has lasted around a year.
  14. Shizbazki

    THE TM MWS thread

    How long have you owned the secondary regulator (the one that takes 800PSI down to 80PSI). If its a brand new reg, then you need to shoot at least 1000+ shots to bed them in usually. When i converted one of my GHK M4 mags to HPA and appropriately tuned, i was able to get it within a 3+/- FPS range on a well used Redline Firebase Regulator.
  15. G&G M14 EBR- About a thousand screws/parts/pins and odd fiddly bits removed and only now i am removing the gearbox. Once the gearbox is opened it generally wants to explode like a frag grenade. Then putting back together OMG, need about 6 hands for the ARL and that freakingly annoying BB feeder tube thingy OMG i hated taking this gun apart! G&G MP5 with blowback - Had to more or less tear this thing apart to get to the gearbox, then in order to dry fire it had to put it all (ALL) back together again. Ares WA2000 - Again another full disassemble just to get to the gubbins to change one thing Easiest to work on: TM P90 - a button, two screws and tilt the lower back and the gearbox, motor etc was all in one nice package
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