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Shizbazki last won the day on August 25 2017

Shizbazki had the most liked content!

1 Follower

About Shizbazki

  • Rank
    AF-UK Veteran

Profile Information

  • Guns
    G&P LVOA Salient M4 (P*)
    GHK M4 Mod1
    APS CAM 870 Salient
  • Loadouts
    Full Multicam
    Kryptek Typhon
  • Sites
    Dragons Lair Airsoft
    AWA Herts
  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

4,682 profile views
  1. I must say i think i am in the same boat. AEGs just dont excite me anymore, HPA was nice when i had it but GBBRs make me smile. If i had a £500 voucher i would would like it for Brownells and get a Magpul LA Remington 700 stock.
  2. I owned a WE M9, thing was a poor performer out of the box and regularly gas dumped. I also owned a KSC M93R it was an ok performer but needed japanese spec BBs which are a tad smaller than 5.95mm diameter. I have also bought an AW EMG SAI DS2011 (basically a hi capa) and that too out of the box was a poor performer, again gassing out and no accuracy whatsoever. I also bought a TM M92FS and out of the box it's hopping .28g BBs, straight like a lazer and most of the time out doing most AEGs, very gas efficient and more importantly consistent too. Yes the WE M9 cost me £100 but the TM one cost me £140 so yes it was more expensive. Yes the WE M9 was full metal and the TM one has a plastic slide, does that bother me, not in the slightest especially when you're in the middle of a firefight. The point i am making is like all the other people have pointed out. You moan that GBB Pistols are a pain because they never work and then go on to list several poor performing pistols. I run almost exclusively Gas be it GBB pistols or GBBRs but the one thing they all have in common is that they are made by Tokyo Marui. However i am not saying that TM are the be end of all they too do have their quirks, just they are easier to iron out.
  3. Oh Hi I totally forgot i posted this up haha. So the hop up chamber had to stay the same as its is unique to the Ares WA2000. As for the other parts i upgrade them with the following items: Hop up bucking - I tried both a PDI (https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/pdi-vsr-10-hop-up-rubber-w-hold-type) and LayLax (https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/laylaxnineball-hop-rubber-for-marui-vsrl96-and-marui-pistols-purple) one. After some testing i think the PDI one was better but marginally. The Cylinder head, Cylinder, Piston and Spring guide I got was from this set https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/pdi-precision-palsonite-cylinder-set-hd-for-marui-vsr-10 I must say very well machined and precision made. The Spring i used was this: https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/pdi-520fps-spring-for-marui-vsr-10-13mm-outer-diameter though i grinded it shorter to bring it down under 500fps on .20g BBs As for sears, i had to keep the trigger mechanism the same as its propriety, i would have preferred a 90 (or zero) degree trigger but that's just not possible in this rifle. I had to keep it 45 degree trigger sear and so upgradded the sear to a steel hardened, which was this one: https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/pdi-vsr-10--l96-piston-sear-2nd-sear I took it out to skirmish once to test it only, to be honest i didn't get very good test results as it was windy, the light was poor and was forced to use bio BBs and it was hard to see there trajectory, i also noticed that the BB loading tube is a very bad design as the plunger i think scratches the BBs which of course means that they dont fly properly. For now i have put this project rifle to bed and plan to probably get or make a 3d printed plunger so that the BBs dont get too scratched up. I also plan on using the Novritch .40BBs some day as they are a) better quality that the Bio BBs i was using and since they are white, should be easy to see on a decent day.
  4. Shizbazki

    THE TM MWS thread

    If your tank is rated for 4500PSI (around 300bar) then its rated for that pressure. Your local paintball place probably only has a compressor rated for 3000PSI (232Bar) so will only fill it to that much. Your best best bet is to go and buy a scuba tank rated at 300Bar, then take it to your nearest dive store that has a 300Bar compressor and make them fill it. Once they fill it you need a "Fill Station" mostly likely with a DIN Fitting which you attach to the scuba tank and basically you fill up from the scuba tank using it as a massive reservoir. I have a 12litre 300Bar tank t hat costs me less than £10 to fill and it has lasted around a year.
  5. Shizbazki

    THE TM MWS thread

    How long have you owned the secondary regulator (the one that takes 800PSI down to 80PSI). If its a brand new reg, then you need to shoot at least 1000+ shots to bed them in usually. When i converted one of my GHK M4 mags to HPA and appropriately tuned, i was able to get it within a 3+/- FPS range on a well used Redline Firebase Regulator.
  6. G&G M14 EBR- About a thousand screws/parts/pins and odd fiddly bits removed and only now i am removing the gearbox. Once the gearbox is opened it generally wants to explode like a frag grenade. Then putting back together OMG, need about 6 hands for the ARL and that freakingly annoying BB feeder tube thingy OMG i hated taking this gun apart! G&G MP5 with blowback - Had to more or less tear this thing apart to get to the gearbox, then in order to dry fire it had to put it all (ALL) back together again. Ares WA2000 - Again another full disassemble just to get to the gubbins to change one thing Easiest to work on: TM P90 - a button, two screws and tilt the lower back and the gearbox, motor etc was all in one nice package
  7. Shizbazki

    THE TM MWS thread

    I had this issue as well. Bought a UAC flat head trigger in gold. It fitted ok into the ZET trigger box but when test firing it on semi i had to push the trigger forwards by about 1 mm for the sears to properly reset so i could fire off another shot. no matter the filing and lubricating i did i could not sort this out and so reverted back to the stock trigger which worked fine since i didn't modify the stock ZET trigger box.
  8. Shizbazki

    THE TM MWS thread

    Oh in full auto skirmish battles im normally the one still toting my MWS, sneakily out flanking them and getting the rear end drop on them "pop, pop, pop" and all that. In skirmish i only ever run 4 + 1 but carry a speed loader, a bag of BBs and Nuprol mini green gas canisters so i can field load the mags again if needed but i don't often reload out in the field. Yeah my speedloaded for the MWS failed spectacularly when the handle snapped, then whilst sitting for lunch it fell some 3 feet to a hard tiled floor and split the top of it open. Useless cheap 3D printed piece of crap it was.
  9. Shizbazki

    THE TM MWS thread

    Personally i use the HSGI Taco pouches, they always hold my MWS mags in tightly, never had them jumping out and i do a lot of running. Thing is though the HSGI pouches only accept one mag but i can double stack them but not that i do to reduce front weight and clutter when lying down. I only carry 5 mags into game with me, 4 in the chest right and 1 in the gun. TBH Milsim is one of the few (if not the best) times when GBBR is king, especially the TM MWS even in its out of the box stock performance. Even in full blown, full auto skirmishes i have had plenty of success with the TM MWS, just means you gotta pick your shots or fights better, makes you more stealthy. Even for full auto or semi auto skirmishes i only run 5 mags with me, 4 on rig and 1 in the gun.
  10. Shizbazki

    THE TM MWS thread

    I'm like you i would not paint any of my guns from anything other than stock. Most guns i've see people DIY paint look bad (in my opinion) some people don't even strip the gun for painting. The only gun i ever owned that i painted was a KWA Kriss Vector that i got second hand, previous seller failed to mention that it was a two tone that he had spray painted black, and poorly at that. I stripped it down to bare parts, carefully prepped and primed the parts that needed painting. Two coats of primer, followed by 4 light coats of paint sanded in between and then two further coats of lacquer later, each coat had 24 hours drying period in between. I had a two tone sparkling black and bronze Vector. Sold it a year later, ive been keeping my eye out for it to see if it ever crops up on the market again. But in general i never paint my guns and do my best to keep them looking stock colour. As for RS on my MWS i have a real steel Magpul MOE-SL Stock and MOE grip, Magpul sling point and sling.
  11. Sorry and shame to see you stop playing mate. Like you said you can probably keep your self in the loop by learning teching and passing that knowledge and experience down to others.
  12. Your best bet will have to be contacting WE Airsoft direct: http://www.weairsoft.com/ They put me in touch with a supplied in HK which was able to source the relevant parts i needed. Took 3 months but it came in the end.
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    Accessory/Make: Unknown brand (maybe Viper) FAST helmet in Kryptek Typhon Condition: Used Splits/Swaps/Part Exchange: No x 3 Price/Payment: £15 Location: North East London (Leyton) Pictures: https://i.imgur.com/o5HNSoM.jpg[/img]


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    Accessory/Make: APS Conception CAM870 Shell holder Condition: Used Splits/Swaps/Part Exchange: No x 3 Price/Payment: £10 for both Location: North East London (Leyton) Pictures: https://i.imgur.com/FvDqm27.jpg[/img] This is a holder for APS CAM 870 shells used in the APS CAM 870 shell ejecting shotgun. Normally used in 3 gun completion shooting for speedloading the shotgun. This holder holds 4 shells. Designed to be strapped to your belt.


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