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The uniform of an SS officer has become a pure reprisentation of hatred from a lot of people from russian, Polish, French, British etc as well as ethnic groups like jewish and gypsy people. The nazi ideals has also become synonyms with opression and because of the regalia has been adopted by hard right racist groups and neo-Nazi organisations, the who ethos of the SS is still deep seeded in hatred by entire generations that is still very much evident to this day. If I was at a skirmish and someone rolled up dressed (By choice) as an SS officer I know there weould be a prize for causing that player as much pain & suffering as possible during the day. Its one of these moments where someones personal belief's would be instantly assumed by others. THe SS carried out horrific war crimes that is so etched into ethnic blood lines that they are still being disscussed and felt to this day and will never be forgotten. To the OP: you may not find the idea of an SS uniform as offensive but others probably will, no one can tell you what to do in life, they can only offer advice and this is one of these moments where I would seriously consider if this is a good idea on your part.

My recommendation:Kid, please, do things in real life smarter, wiser and nicer than any of your current attitude here.

There's a time and a place. A normal skirmish is neither.

ill just leave this here (WE SCAR)

There's something distinctly brilliant about emptying one of the 50 round mags in 2.5 seconds when it's a pistol though; very few other GBBs produce that much kick and they're fairly unique for it. TM frames do crack at the front screw post after about 3000 rounds, but the Guarder ones (aprox. £30) are re-enforced with brass and are the first upgrade one should buy for them. The TM ones are built solidly elsewhere and the tolerances are good, but I'd never touch the WE and KWA ones (which is what many people form their opinions from). They're cheap and nasty - far too much money goes into the material cost of a metal slide, and the internals are made of complete pot metal. And that sexy ported barrel:

I personally run a Blackhawk riggers belt in Tan, cant fault it. http://www.uktactical.com/p-8469-blackhawk-rigger-belt-dark-earth-coyote-tan.aspx?gclid=CMzR3YKN_MYCFYLJtAodbx8GeA

To be honest I think their priorities aren't what needs to be reorganised but maybe your attitude does.

oh and a sniper is a person not a weapon.

There is no airsoft "license", if you are talking ukara, it's a "defence" ;-)

Very large rifle. Would suggest you see one in the flesh before buying. A lot of new players are drawn towards being a sniper. Unless you really are sure its a style you are going to like, I would be wary. Many are drawn by the mystique but get bored of waiting around a long way from the action. If you want to play an active role but are drawn towards that style of gun, there are lots of smaller DMR on the market. Gear depends on what role you want to play in games.

Don't trade it. Gas sniper rifles are crap unless you're using HPA - you need consistency. You should never be using propane if you're serious about the best performance. Stove gas is dirty and screws up your internals and o-rings over time. If you want the most powerful gas in the UK then it's still Guarder Powerful Gas - Firesupport stock it. Again though, stick with spring. Your TM VSR is basically the most accurate bolt action airsoft rifle out there anyway.

No, it's a pain in the donkey to get right, to much to little can ruin it. even worse when you do it for a friend !!! who is watching !!!

Cheers, ive also done my pals M4 Firehawk

Just bought Special Teams Carbine 10/22 Gas Sniper Rifle ASG x 3 green gas mags Tactical bipod 3.5-10 x 50 scope And painted it myself. ... did my UMP 45 while i was at it.

Full auto in a pistol is a gimmick and having the fire selector mech present complicates the trigger box and causes parts to wear faster. So personally l think it makes more sense to get the G17 because no auto means it'll last longer and have a slightly simpler mechanism.

Having read through Chapter 2 there is a general fault in the logic of defining lethality on the basis of muzzle energy. As they quite rightly point out a dart (designed to penetrate) will be lethal at 1J whereas airsofters get hit with >1J BBs all the time and they don't get injured let alone die from the impact. Lethality isn't just about muzzle velocity, its also about penetration and that is about pressure. Its somewhat amusing actually because we already have a basic test for lethality involving ballistics gel. If you cloth a ballistics gel dummy and you still get sufficient penetration to kill a human then you have yourself something that is potentially lethal. If it can't do that (and airsoft weapons can't even at 2.5J) then its not going to be lethal. Its only a consultation but I think I ought to comment on the lethality section and the definition based soly on muzzle velocity is severely lacking in basic understanding of the physics involved in bullets penetrating and both sides need to be addressed.

Most peoples jobs don't involve crimes against humanity...

Just No. SS uniforms are offensive in the wrong situations. An SS officer impression would not be welcomed even in WW2 airsoft for 2 reasons: Officers are part of the organisation of the game and SS impressions are only useful when the specific scenario is one where SS units would be present. A standard german uniform would be perfectly acceptable. If you want something different then Fallschirmjager or Gebirgsjager are quite cool.

Oh my god, I did Nazi that reply coming lmao, great one

Anything to do with the nazis should be avoided like the fuckin plague

Is he forbidden from play totally then, even with a rental on a site he'd still get locked up if they caught him? Coppers and law-types have curious logic at times.

Only people with taste haha

Are you sure Airsoft is the right sport for you? 😉

I would say that if you had to post the thread you probably already know it's a bad idea.

Mil spec Solutions my gold slide and barrel came from for the G17 but I think they do 18c as well. My 18c was a KSC brand. I'm not for one second saying all 18c are like that, I'm just sharing my view of it it. Also I didn't buy mine, it was given to me for work carried out on someone's AEG.

Having read through as much of the consultation paper as I can, before getting brain ache, I do think that at last the Government has decided to get their Act together (pun intended) in relation to firearms and, from the tone of the consultation paper, I do think it will overall be of benefit to the airsoft industry and our hobby. I would prefer that they use the 2.5J - 1.3J limits, otherwise we might all have to end up buying TM products to keep below the 328fps / 1J limit. The paper does at least seem to side with the airsoft industry, so there is hope for us yet. The really daft part of the current legislation is obviously that over 18s can still buy and use a 12ft/lb air rifle, which has a rifled barrel and can shoot a pointed projectile at around 12J and which can kill vermin, and cause significant injury to a human, but is prohibited, without access to the provisions of the VCRA specific defense, from buying an airsoft RIF that shoots a round projectile out of a smooth bore at around 1 - 1.3J and which, whilst it can break skin (I know from numerous games!!), cannot puncture to sufficient depth or with sufficient kinetic energy to cause significant injury. Hopefully in a few years we can have a much more user friendly Firearms Act that defines airsoft RIFs as toys and takes them out of the FA entirely. We can only hope.

Everyone talking about practicality when we're playing with toy guns.

The one I took off was a uk one. The flash hider was black.

Obviously you had an inferior brand then, and this is what I mean with most people tarring all of them with the same brush; the TM one can be in any position before using the fire selector. I've noticed the selector to be very spongey on the others too - the TM one has a very positive click. I've not once accidentally had it switch to full auto from semi (or vice versa). Firesupport I think. If not then overseas - WGC probably stock it. It's a Guarder one, but I know they have a weird name for the colour for some reason so it might not be as straight forward to search for. Edit: Yeh, 'titanium gold' is the colour. Here's the link: http://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/guarder-aluminum-cnc-titanium-golden-outer-barrel-for-marui-18c

Aside from my slightly facetious comment earlier, it's also worth noting that lighting someone up with full auto at pistol range is a pretty twatish thing to do. You wouldn't with an aeg so why with a pistol?. I have been on the other end and it's not fun. What is fun for me is bedroom training to drop my primary and get three quick, accurate shots off. Makes me feel all super l33t operator inside. I also have heard from a reliable tech that they have seen a few tm18s crack themselves to death with 50 round mags, especially in winter.

Doubt you'll find a site that'l let you do it due to insurance. I'd say this is one those things that is dangerous regardless of idiocy, far too much potential for grenade to the face even if the person was trying to be very sensible. Someone could easily walk into the line of fire and take it to the face, or you could accidentally aim wrong and hit someone. Even if was allowed I'd not want to risk it during a game, for the same reason i'd not want to catapult half a brick around. If you hit someone with it they could sue the pants off you Would look cool though...

I'm liking the paint work and the UMP, very tasty

Couldn't have been more simple, eh?

A Mike cripps TM hi Capps 5.1 with a few tweaks 😉

Im sure somebody can lend you a hairdryer, that and a spanner is all you need.

I run with 5 G&P mid caps they feed perfectly in my G&P m416 and I think that they are compatible with all ICS m4s but it's worth sending where ever you're buying them from a email just to double check. (I got mine from wolf armories for £19)

I've got the TM G18C and have no problems with the selector switch accidentally going full auto/semi. However, I don't have the stock parts as a lot of it has been upgraded, one being the selector switch. It is very definitive between semi/full auto. Despite what was said earlier about full auto being for girls, it is actually quite fun to play about with. However, some seem to not prefer having the option. It can function as a G17 would - just don't touch the switch. As for the mention of the weird KWA selector switch thing, the TM doesn't have it, in case you're wondering. You can select semi/full auto without having to keep the slide back. If you want a practical, but at the same time a FUN gun, then buy the G18C. Full auto with a 50rnd mag will put a smile on your face I do have a long list of upgrades on it though, but it fires fine out of the box. ALTHOUGH, if you do decide to get a G18C, then do not go the cheaper way and get a WE. They've been known to have internal issues with full auto and it can easily cause breaking (which is stupid). You'd be better off getting a TM, believe me. TM also has the GLOCK trademarks, if you're into that sort of thing. Polymer slide though, but uses less gas due to the lighter weight. A WE G17 is fine though because it doesn't have full auto to break it so easily. I agree, I personally see no reason to buy a G17 over and G18C. As I said, full auto is optional. So spend a bit more and have a lot more fun with it! I get bored of semi only pistols since I have had the G18C. Definitely not as fun. All that being said, using WE Glock mags in the TM is perfectly fine Bit cheaper too, but they work very well. Hope this helps EDIT: Turn the G18C into a smg with the CAA Roni G18C Carbine kit Can't see much point in doing that with a G17 because it is semi only. Or an APS kit, depending on budget. You have many options with a G18C

Been a while guys, but got round to this eventually, so thought I'd update those who care So, started off with disassembling the gun, which was fairly straight forward. Sorry about the mess... Once I removed the heatshield I soaked the relevent parts in the fairy power spray, which did nothing at all So I decided to sand the parts down, took a good 2-3 hours to do it slowly and properly, didn't want to use too low grit paper, so took my time, after the parts were decently sanded down, applied the primer, about 40 mins per coat, 3 coats overall. It got very dark very quick Decided at the very last minute I wanted the plastic part to be black instead of brown, looks better IMO and more authentic, so considering I had grey primer for the metal and white plastic primer for the heatshield, I gave the polymer heatshield 2 coats of white plastic then 2 coats of grey primer as I didnt want to spray black paint over white primer, was a massive risk but hey ho.. Finished results (That i'm ridiculously proud of tbh, although not perfect) Considering i've never done anything like this before, i'm well chuffed with the result, messed up the black on the barrel at one point, sprayed too close and it run and looked terrible, tried to wipe it but made it even worse, so let it dry, sanded it slowly for an hour, and started again. Little bits here and there that aren't brilliant but nothing major, i'm just very overly critical and my own worse critic most of the time! Thanks for the help to those who offered advice, made the process so much easier!

yes both are very expensive i do both and my card hates me

I wouldn't chance it and go for one of the German units like Russ mentioned. There was a thread about WW2 German uniforms over on Zero In a while back that quickly became an explosion in a see you next tuesday factory(there's some pretty impressive leaps of logic if you look it up) . Even regular German uniforms seem to upset some people, but SS ones are pushing your luck.

A good nazi is a dead nazi so I sure go for an overkill when I see one on the filed. With those nazi zombie films around, you never know.

If I were you I'd just put a standard Wehrmacht officer's loadout together. Some units of the SS were responsible for running concentration camps, and so the SS has a massive stigma surrounding it. The Wehrmacht does not have this stigma as they were combat only, and so you won't have to worry about what others think. In fact, some members of the Wehrmacht saved jews and non-jews from the concentration camps- Anton Schmid, a sergeant in the army, helped about 250 Jewish men, women & children to escape from the Vilnius ghetto and also provided them with forged passports and documents. For this he was court martialled and executed. If you dressed as a standard German Army officer from WWII instead of as an SS officer, you can tell ignorant name callers about Anton Schmid and how he saved so many jews for his own sacrifice.

where the hell have you been ??? glad to see you return hope all is ok

You just need the yellow gloves now Muzza

Oh, of course... I was just pointing out that if you wear camo, without he things mentioned... Then it IS just dress up, not a tactical choice. I'm currently making up foam armour, exactly for that reason... I'm going to have fun playing ACTUAL dress up...

From my point of view, helps look the part a little, kind of fun to dress up, and if cheap surplus stuff it's perfect for messing about in rather than trashing other clothes. I'm not about to use any of it for anything else As for the effectiveness of camouflage? It's not perfect without going mad to hide yourself, but it sure ain't bad. Thing is, it's a game. So, er, I'm not that bothered? Just got plain old multicam surplus stuff, and a desert set. I don't plan on visiting deserts.

I used to be quite good at that game. I found the trick was to be out in the open but flat against the ground. The people moving through the bushes and cover would snap twigs etc and thats where the spotter would be expecting people. In airsoft you expect people to be by trees, so don't be by a tree. In WW2 airsoft, it's simple. The trick is to not be near the Americans. British battledress works better than the American gear and the American players tend to be a lot less stealthy. Plus if you stay away from them, they can't accidentally shoot you A big factor in camouflage is the shape of your head. The most likely part of you to be sticking out so it's a good idea to make it less head shaped. A boonie is good for this, tacticool FAST helmets aren't. If you have a scrim scarf, drape it over your head to break up the outline. The best camo I find is the old brushstrokes camo.

The best camouflage is staying still and being quiet. I for one am glad that 99% of airsofters can't do either, makes life much easier