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Just No. SS uniforms are offensive in the wrong situations. An SS officer impression would not be welcomed even in WW2 airsoft for 2 reasons: Officers are part of the organisation of the game and SS impressions are only useful when the specific scenario is one where SS units would be present. A standard german uniform would be perfectly acceptable. If you want something different then Fallschirmjager or Gebirgsjager are quite cool.

Anything to do with the nazis should be avoided like the fuckin plague

Been to the W&P show this weekend. Treated myself to a few goodies. - Camo face paint - Viper gloves (greener irl) - 10 pack of mini clips (bought them as they were like a pound) - Flecktarn goretex jacket - and a soviet AK bayonet

Been a while guys, but got round to this eventually, so thought I'd update those who care So, started off with disassembling the gun, which was fairly straight forward. Sorry about the mess... Once I removed the heatshield I soaked the relevent parts in the fairy power spray, which did nothing at all So I decided to sand the parts down, took a good 2-3 hours to do it slowly and properly, didn't want to use too low grit paper, so took my time, after the parts were decently sanded down, applied the primer, about 40 mins per coat, 3 coats overall. It got very dark very quick Decided at the very last minute I wanted the plastic part to be black instead of brown, looks better IMO and more authentic, so considering I had grey primer for the metal and white plastic primer for the heatshield, I gave the polymer heatshield 2 coats of white plastic then 2 coats of grey primer as I didnt want to spray black paint over white primer, was a massive risk but hey ho.. Finished results (That i'm ridiculously proud of tbh, although not perfect) Considering i've never done anything like this before, i'm well chuffed with the result, messed up the black on the barrel at one point, sprayed too close and it run and looked terrible, tried to wipe it but made it even worse, so let it dry, sanded it slowly for an hour, and started again. Little bits here and there that aren't brilliant but nothing major, i'm just very overly critical and my own worse critic most of the time! Thanks for the help to those who offered advice, made the process so much easier!

Nazi zombie loadout however would be totally cool

A good nazi is a dead nazi so I sure go for an overkill when I see one on the filed. With those nazi zombie films around, you never know.

If I were you I'd just put a standard Wehrmacht officer's loadout together. Some units of the SS were responsible for running concentration camps, and so the SS has a massive stigma surrounding it. The Wehrmacht does not have this stigma as they were combat only, and so you won't have to worry about what others think. In fact, some members of the Wehrmacht saved jews and non-jews from the concentration camps- Anton Schmid, a sergeant in the army, helped about 250 Jewish men, women & children to escape from the Vilnius ghetto and also provided them with forged passports and documents. For this he was court martialled and executed. If you dressed as a standard German Army officer from WWII instead of as an SS officer, you can tell ignorant name callers about Anton Schmid and how he saved so many jews for his own sacrifice.

So you've got a 2 tone gun and you are unhappy because it's easy to turn it into a RIF while trying to turn it into a RIF? Am I missing something here?

12 year old Cod rambo super sas elite navy seal gods who else ?

honestly get a box of them mid caps they are the dogz nutz the picky 416 loves them and I may have to get another box they joy of unleashing bb hell without the winding/feed issue/winding etc..... you can get them from: http://www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/armalite-140rd-m4-mid-caps-box-set-10-grey-m16-magazine-10476-p.asp or if ya want 85rnd ones: http://www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/armalite-magazine-m4-m16-85rd-box-set-mag-grey-x-10-mid-cap-10475-p.asp not used the 85 rnd ones but if they are like the 120/140 ones they should be very good indeed if ya buy a nut/bolt or any other item - you get 10% off and delivery is free (my favourite price) bollox - seems like they have drpped the 10% discount and free delivery very recently used to be a 10% discount code but can't see where that would be entered on the site's recent update ah well they have dropped price as they were £55 free del so now the 140rnd box is £50 + £5 delivery so it kinda woreks out the same I guess - still good mags/price so it is worth considering grabbing a box and maybe sell on half on fleabay or something (shame they don't do say 5 of each and you should be sorted for normal skirmish or more serious low capicity mil sim sites) but if those M4 mags don't work in your gun then you gotta be trying them in an AK or G36 or something

I want to get a scope for my Ashbury sniper but being airsoft I want it to look good but low magnification. Unlike airsoft I dont want to spend a lot of money. I've seen a few on ebay around the £20-£30 mark but they dont seem to look very long or chunky. Suggestions?

Cheers mate, not 100% happy, but i'd have to be an expert for it to be perfect Not a too difficult paint job, but as a first time, i'm very pleased with the outcome, so thanks to you guys on here that gave me advice, otherwise I probably would have just painted it straight over the blue stuff with normal wal paint (Joking of course, but you get my point )

Looks good. All you need is a PSO scope for it.

yes both are very expensive i do both and my card hates me

I wouldn't have an issue with it, they were just another unit. We all go and do our job and get paid for it, we follow orders and that's it. that was theirs and they were very, very good at it. People need to get over it.

Just undo your dressing gown and run at him...that'll have him running to the hills for sure

I just sold one with 2 mags and a CQB valve (not bolt) fitted but nothing else for 150. It went quickly. Yours should be around 200-250 depending how quick you want it to go.

I really couldn't care if they voice their opinions... its supposed to be an enjoyable day out and if they want to get crappy just because of my loadout then they really need to reorganise their priorities if they get offended by clothing.

Who do re-enactors and ww2 airsofters play against then?

Suggestions? Swap the Nazi Swastika for the Sanskrit Swastika, then no one can accused you of being thoughtless. Though some forget, people died on the other side too.

You might as well just grab the ones I linked to be honest. Higher capacity and discharge for an extra couple of quid. Plus you KNOW they fit.

And give legitimacy to any "I feared for my life" self defence argument by the intruder in court after they killed you.

Yup. Frankly all the mid-level BBs one would use in an AEG are by-and-large the same. Some people swear by G&G, some Blasters, some Excel, some BB King, some Guarder, some Madbull. The fact of the matter is they're all basically identical and most people will just recommend you what they happen to have been using for the past few years simply out of ease (usually because they're stocked by their favourite retailer or site). When you get above .30, that's when you need to start caring about brands because cost comes into it a lot and there are crappy ones out there. Just stick to the big brands and it'll all be fine for .25s.

Ok will stick with the blasters they are easy to get hold of

with hindsight, yes 110% !!l lol edit: in fact in all honesty, I probably tired running a marathon before I could even crawl!

This is what I use: http://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-1300mah-25c-continuous-discharge-cranestock-lipo-battery.html They work a treat and fit nicely, though you do have to lose that little insert bit.

read also this: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/17294-ians-guide-to-noobism-on-a-tight-budget/ a lot of "upgrades" may not be an absolute must do first time around. often the piston o-ring is $hit and sometimes it can be real $hit - new o-ring is like 50p or a pack of 6 or 10 for £2 AoE is very rarely done - on the cheap neoprene rubber washers will suffice for most builds unless you are smashing high springs at high speeds stock gears, piston and perhaps piston head often are ok - if the gears don't skreech and piston ain't stripped just a better o-ring will suffice if anything an o-ring nozzle will help and if cylinder head is ok a few wraps of plumbers ptfe tape will improve seals (or maybe get a double o-ring cylinder head and see how a new head n nozzle fit together) any parts you replace from the few crap stock bits you might change like I said make sure you FULLY compare them side by side and check how nicely they fit together & mesh/operate sounds really easy - it kinda is but at first you tend to think all stuff will just drop in there and work just as good if not better the sad fact is the TM compatible crap these parts are supposed to be comes in 3 forms: 1 - yup goes in there lovely and no adjustment or tweaking needed - not as common as you might think 2 - goes in but is a bit long or snags a bit and a bit if file/sanding required to a lot of work getting it to fit (the more parts you replace very often you will have to check-double check everything every step of the way) 3 - bollox is that gonna go in there coz either the part is a duff pile of crap or the box you are trying to put it in is one of them weird not so TM compatible boxes - so it ain't going in there no matter what ya do to it the more you do the more you learn this first hand and you really need mainly 75% care and say 25% decent bits to get most stuff sining better than stock - even some old crappy spare bits n bobs reassembled in ya gun will give good results a couple of more times messing about in there and you will wonder what all the fuss was about think you might have started to run before you could walk doing a complete strip & high speed rebuild with some bits that maybe not quite working out all prefectly running together 101% without a bit of modding here n there. no worries - if you getting all stressed take a step back, look up some info or post up here we have all been there - don't be afraid to take pics - easy to figure out wtf that tiny thing goes loads of tips and methods you will discover on your own and also learn from others still learning - when I stop learning that is when stuff gets boring to me but for now keep the learning curve going upwards

+aircon, really need it to be a bit cooler than B51's 40C blast furnace!

See how much it sells for now and half it. I dont tend to sell stuff prefer the donate it to good home method.

plug in mosfet - usually are the burst wizards like avacado they do NOT protect your contacts at all !!!! (you still have a massive amount of juice being "switched" on contacts - arcing & carbon and burning away) only exception to this is the Kong burst mosfet BUT you MUST hardwire any fet in - including the Kong Kong will work 90% of features - need to work at nasa to fully ubderstand all the program features on that mofo it will work of a sort in plug/play mode but like I said it HAS to be hardwired like any fet to protect your contacts Mosfets are used to turn on/off the high juice without the contacts burning out they are fed a small current that turns on the fet and unleashes the higher juice to the motor the switch contacts are switching the fet on and off, so they remain in a much healthier state They can be wired in using a few different ways either splicing and using the old wiring or as I often do rewire it with better wire and a dedicated mosfet feed/return or supply/signal wires Unfortunately on V2 gearboxes you have to open it up to resolder the switch contacts- even if using most of existing wire (V3's can be "fetted" without opening gearbox up) But it is very wise to perform a little service anyway - Angle of Engagement, regrease, check/improve seals etc... these can be done whilst you have box open to solder in new wiring layout for mosfet. Your running 11.1v in say a reasonable stock ICS so my rough maths you are getting into low 20's on stock setup with 11.1v so it makes sound sense to look into all this for your gun to last and perform more efficiently FireStorm fet for £10 - gotta be one of smallest fets out there and has thermal fuse protection very good & cheap fet for people who don't wanna build their own 3034.... http://www.firestormsystems.com/shop/electronics/mosfet-switch.html however - the rest is gonna be down to you if you wish to take the plunge or take it to a tech to do - but if you can solder - or practice a bit first with a few old boards good solder - not crap from poundland, a bit of time and it isn't that tricky quick little service whilst box is open - taking your time you shouldn't disturb too much then she "should" go back together quite well with little possible dramas how the fet is wired is up to you how you see fit, front/rear wired you can splice and use most of wiring and if room looks tight on rear wired boxes you can just run a thin signal wire back to fet externally on outside of box (did this for my first fet but now I usually just rewire the whole thing with better wire and neater job I think) if you are new to all the gearbox malarky then I strongly suggest you research a bit on opening boxes first You are a little lucky in that the ICS is split gearbox so you can get the lower box open without too much of the box bursting open and bits flying everywhere like many first timers (inc mine) so yeah google up and do some research before you jump in and go nutz

Had a set of those a while back. Cheapest feeling, worst feeding mags I've ever had, binned the lot after 1 game as most of them just simply didn't feed BBs in to my guns. Not worth the money.

shimming needs a smidge of side to side play or the gears will bind/snag getting them placed correctly takes time/patience and everybox is a little different to others had a mp5 that still sounded like 2 cats killing each other in there no matter what I did it is still a little smidge schreechy in my book but deffo got some play and now using a lightly used G&G gear set in there I'm still learning new crap on every box my first few builds had the bevel gear a bit too low - spun lovely but when motor wound in it was forcing bevel real tight against the bush/bearing on top not quite schreechy but motor/wire everything was getting warm-hot quickly from strain read this - a lot of info there and you don't need to go nutz to get you gun running a bit faster http://www.airsoftsociety.com/forums/f10/legacys-guide-building-high-speed-aeg-87504/ forget the really silly stuff, stick between 20 to 30rps, your gun just dies quicker or wears out faster above 25rps you will need to shortstroke - again I screwed that up first time round too so like a lot of things go easy at first - most good builds and by that I mean the quality not speed most good builds are 25% decent - not awesome high priced parts and the rest is 75% attention to detail how well they fit together - often a bit of file/sandpaper etc.... youtube is good for some stuff but some videos are guys just taking apart a nicely built box and putting it back with parts known to work some of youtube you wonder if their results are really that good or genuinely that fps/rof on that weight of bb or voltage ? like many things - you can read & watch loads but in the end you gotta take off the stabilisers, roll ya sleeves up and just go for it you will screw up but you will learn from your mistakes and nothing is that boned or you just get another box if you can solder, then you can knock up your own 3034 mosfet, or buy a £10 FireStorm one if you get into 20's rps that is very good steady build for many first few builds - seeing that a little work reaps good improvements again for little money n time. Kudos for having a go, double kudos of knowing to get it sorted and try again next time is why I buy the cheaper stuff up to £150 - push it - break it - fix it or leave it until I have gained the experience to fix it (I have a few spare guns and that is all I will say - most work fine coz I haven't killed them all yet) no worries - we are all still learning and I have broken my fair share sir - hence I have a good box of spares (boned boxes)

For the Masada: RATech NPAS for KJW M4 (managed to lose the last one, god knows how) Magpul PTS Long Handguard For G5: Mag follower spring (the old one pinged off into the neighbour's pond this afternoon ) For the TM M&P9 I'm buying tomorrow: 3x Nineball Purple Gas Router 3x Nineball Neo-R Adjustable High Flow Mag Valve 1x Nineball Purple Hop Rubber 1x Nineball 6.03 Inner Barrel for M&P9 1x Nova CNC Aluminium Slide kit in Black 1x UAC Match Grade Steel Trigger Lever for M&P9 1x UAC Match Grade Steel Hammer & Sear for M&P9 1x UAC Tactical Trigger in Black for M&P9 1x UAC Ultra Lightweight Blowback Housing for M&P9 1x UAC Aluminium Loading Nozzle for M&P9 1x UAC Piston Head for M&P9 1x UAC Day and Night Sight for M&P9

Sell it on then always people on here looking for second hand optics.

Yes i did and now she has that "ill smother you with a pillow when you sleep" look on her face

My job requires me to have a fix it and make sure it lasts mindset. Most of the time that means I have to work stuff out very quickly. I can be on any random day doing anything from plumbing, plastering, electrics, electronics, machine repair, housing repairs on equipment. If it can be damaged it can be fixed. I save our company a lot of money and am pretty much free to choose my working hours and equipment list. They still don't want to get me a tig welder tho.... I'm working on that as there are a lot of places in the company I could find a use for it. I don't throw things away unless I have to. Testament to this are my PC speakers. I have a creative DTT2200 5.1system from 1999. I've rebuilt the unit several times, Replaced the pots, Remade the controller using maplin boxes. It works as well as the day I got it 16 years ago. This is the reason I've written off models like the Fn2000, and the Tar-21. Whilst they may work well for a product lifetime I want a product that I can keep working until I say it's dead.

It looks just as big (Maybe bigger) than Bunker 51 but it looks more open and without the choke points. The buildings will add a different dimension to the game play here compared to B51. Very much looking forward to this. When they release an opening/first skirmish date, anyone fancy forming an AF-UK team?

Yes, but it takes 2 people. Keep treating her the same as before the wedding and there will be sex. This is too deep for an airsoft forum.

I'm glad I don't have another half at the moment, don't think many would approve of how much i spend on certain items

I see an awful lot of "she calls it sad", "doesn't get why I need to much camo/so many guns", "huffs when yet another package turns up" yet nobody asking why said females 'need' 200 pairs of shoes and how that is in any way different? If I ever went out with a girl and she lacked the cranial capacity to acknowledge such a simple fact, she'd get the boot fairly sharpish. People who're unable to look at anything from others' perspectives (and get shitty about it) are definitely a pet hate.

Thats what I was thinking. After looking round your average safe zone I am surprised so many airsofters have a woman.

My wife said recently "With all my friends they seem to be worried their husband is going to come home drunk, in the arms of some other woman or out with the lads moaning about their wives. At least with you I know you are so sad that you will just be off playing armies or doing some other sad hobby - it's quite comforting" I think that means she's generally supportive

You lot are sad.... Me on the other hand, I'm f*cking miserable Playing toy soldiers ??? I am reenacting famous strategic and tactical battles Yeah OK I'm playing toy soldiers

Just tell her shes right. You should be down the pub with your mates getting drunk and chasing skirt.

Anybody who looks down on 2-toner's must also have a low opinion on renters too to me it is all about the fun factor - £ for £ I bet a 14yr old with a £125 Z1 raider is having more fun than a snobby middle aged player with expensive toys getting the hump being shot by kids Actually that sounds like me a bit but I really accept I get ar$e handed to me without new players starting somewhere it can get very stale and even risk of site not continuing due to regulars giving up I pay little attention to people's guns - it is the person not the gun I like or dislike - forget what toy they are holding Fine clothes do not make the gentleman - as my late father used to say (we are/were both scruffy sods but besides that fairly decent blokes)

They don't publish much because there is very little to publish. Most of it is exactly the same as it has always been. I've been twice and it went as follows: Arrive Friday as early as possible ( both times by about 2pm) keep in mind its Friday of the bank holiday and they are based close to the south coast so expect to be in traffic from halfway down the M3 if coming from the M25. The closer you are to the shop/arena entrance the louder it will be, expect some pumping music, war films on big plasmas and projectors competing with pissed up players and bonfires. Further back its more relaxed, no loud music just smaller social gatherings. There is a Friday night game, that I have never bothered to play, starts about 8ish I guess and I can't remember if it might have been a single shot/pistols/shotties only affair. Mostly its only some of the diehard players and kids with energy to burn who play. We are normally getting stuck into the second half of a crate or beer by then, and the spirits flow by about 9. Zero one empty their entire warehouse (and they are one of the largest retailers in the uk so it's a lot of stuff) into a marquee, we tend to have a brief bimble around it on the Friday when we go up for wrist bands, don't forget your traveling beers for that one as its a bit of a trek from where we try to camp. There will be loads of guys selling second hand kit along the main paths and tracks. G&G I think it is have a stand as well and there is a bar and stage. Never seen a single "act" on it though. You get given a pack containing a poor quality map of the site, it marks the main structures and tracks, the dead zones. But for anyone used to serious navigating it's almost as useless as something someone draws from memory (I got a copy of a map Ian_Gere made which is much better in my mind). An outline of the following two days, each team Delta, Bravo and others gets their own set, which should mean you have some objectives in common. So far both years one teams have been given to another team by mistake. Rules etc. We tend to give up following the plan fairly soon and try to put a spanner in the works for Bravo and The others. Both last year and the year before we had the impression that the others and bravo had a sort of truce of sorts and were ignoring each other to hit us repeatedly. But who knows we knew we were the largest single team. Game on is about 10:30 both days. On the first day they run 2 briefings one at 9:30 I think for people that are on time, and 10 for the second batch that miss the briefing. Then its a long trek up to your base. 4:30 to 5 ish is a massive assault on the central village, a 3 way blat fest between about 1500 players. (my advice is full face, helmet, plate carrier and some big balls if you are going to give this a serious go) worth doing once, and I would recommend doing it on Saturday. Sunday as soon as the game ends its a race to get off site. We tend to pack up camp before we head out to play starting a little later than we are supposed to. Then play till we get bored or tired then hit the cars by about 4 ish.

I have been there quite a lot. I find it a real pain to travel there, since they got rid of the pickup service from the tram station I have only been down there once, ended up walking and am not a fan as the journey is pretty bad. Taxis for the final stint are really hard to find. The site itself is mostly woodland, quite a lot of pretty thick woodland. I really like TWA, its one of my favourite sites, I have had some great moments with 3 awesome guys crawling through the woods as a fireteam. I don't really have any issues with the site, was happy with the safety, was happy with the site itself and some of the guys I play with there are amazing. There are bigger and better woodland games to be had IMO but its still a decent day out.