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My armoury wall

About a month ago, i had an opportunity to purchase a brand new and never fitted Daytonagun M240b kit and a Golden Eagle M240b that a good friend of mine had converted into a GPMG. He'd been unable to find anyone that would fit the kit for him in the uk, I told him id give it a go and ended up buying the lot from him when he decided to call it a day with airsoft. So having managed to buy the lot including a bottle, reg and line that had never been used for 1/3 of the retail price, i figured "ehhh how difficult can this be? these are drop in kits anyway" WRONG so it turns out that there are minor differences internally with the Golden Eagle M240b when compared to the A&K M240b, the kits are made to fit the A&K... however these "minor" internal differences are a significant issue when fitting the Daytona Kit. When looking on the daytona website for instructions (very vague) i noticed a section that said "will only fit Golden eagle with extensive modification" these modifcations turned out to require the following. 1) filing out areas of the reciever where the AEG gearbox sits 2) the removal of approx 1mm of material either side of the aluminium block that slides in the rear of the reciever and supports the back of the daytona kit 3) measuring out, drilling and counter sinking the holes in the lower that hold the daytona kit in place - these holes are present on the A&K and are used to secure the gearbox, not so for the golden eagle. before we go any further at this point, im not a trained or qualified engineer or modelmaker, i'm definitely an amateur in this sense. after much careful measuring, scoring, countersinking and filing down here and there i finally managed to get the aluminium block to slide comfortably into the rear of the reciever. following this the holes were measured and drilled in the lower reciever to hold the Daytona Engine in place. the kit is a work of art in terms of how well it fits, and the quality of its manufacture! once it was fit, i concentrated on the barrel and hopup mechanism for the daytona engine, not an obviously intuitive task either. had to knock some pins out to remove the original hopup unit, then sand about 0.1mm from the inside of the outer barrel casting to get the hop unit to properly fit. however after a lot of trial fitting and careful alignment, everything went in perfectly.. . coming down to the first Test firing she had today. video-1606658560.mp4 I've been told that these guns need approx 4k rounds putting through them to bed them in properly. so far ive put about a thousand rounds through it, since disassembled and checked all the components for uneven wear or signs fo metal shavings. locktited every screw and fitting in the gun as it went backtogether im Not happy with the magazine as it stands, it will definitely need some more work before im happy with it. overall - the daytona kit is an incredibly well made and beautiful piece of engineering. i cannot say yet if the cost of the build is worth it in terms of performance, but the sound of the mechanism makes me giggle like a little girl.. Updates to follow as the build progresses!

Hey everyone Joined up as I used to play many years ago (2009/2010) and moved away from the hobby due to a lot of things happening all at once Been itching to get back to it for a while now, so have dug out all my old gear and plan to get started (hopefully) in the new year

FRV shooters belt in their 30% off cyber Monday sale. Split over three payments with PayPal too, so £17.something per month.

I keep looking at MP5's as well, so much choice and styles out there. I have found FB to be quite useful for finding pictures if builds, both the CYMA and MP5 owners groups are very free with pictures. Anything below 98% surety will lead to buyers regret....

I want to apologise to @ak2m4 for ordering a set of screws for £1. Will try to break more stuff so the order is worth doing next time.

^ dis. Sort the compression, good barrel (doesn't have to be fancy nor expensive, it needs to be STRAIGHT and have a good internal finish) and good hop. Tight bore vs wide bore is an eternal debate, I'd keep it to 6.05/6.08 internal diametre so that you have a good compromise between efficiency and reduced chances of the bb bouncing inside. Assuming you're talking about your VSR and if you haven't already, get a TDC. It vastly improves hop consistency, applying direct pressure on the tensioner, rather than having leverages that can flex. The flexing is minimal but you want to remove as many variables as possible that can mess up your shot. Energy output isn't everything to be fair, the difference between a 2J gun and a 2.25J gun is negligible so even if you're not bang on the limit it's not too big of a deal. Also, most important thing: use good bbs. They are expensive, but with a bolt action it's not like you're dumping thousands per day. After that, every improvement has to be done from the shooter's side don't blame the gun if you can't hit shit

Titan batteries are just tarted up 18650's at a premium price They might be good 18650's (the specs vary loads) but even the high end 18650's do not outperform a decent similar spec LiPo One of the best 18650's are the Molicel P26a... https://www.fogstar.co.uk/products/molicel-p26a or https://18650.uk/product/molicel-inr18650-p26a-18650-battery/ But even these bad boys might not offer quite as much grunt as say a 30c LiPo I was sceptical of the hype surrounding these new Titan batteries (I'm not a big fan of LiFe batteries either) But a recent geeky bench test shows maybe these Titan's & others are not all they are cracked up to be https://www.airsoftsociety.com/threads/objective-battery-test-titan-lion-vs-kypom-lipo-vs-hv-lipo.161379/ I personally would read up a bit and perhaps consider all options like a decent high capacity, 30c or 40c LiPo (I mean true 30c or 40c not the 20~40c crap on label, but specific 40c rating) Up to you, but I have my reservations back then & even more doubts now

Gotta love that HTI. If someone offered pre-built Silverbacks or HTIs Id own one...

I'm probably not Airsofting again until the new year. But also, I'll probably be there anyway as staff 😁

Time for the dirty old man to show up 😱 ...me after a day of airsofting 😆

Why bother when you can be spoon fed?

I fortunately held onto my guns. I've a Cyma M14 that I put a few upgrades on, a G&G (I think) M4 which I'm doing similar with when I find a replacement lower receiver and a WE hi capa

For sure, I've been impressed by the incrimental upgrades/improvements they make as a company so I see no reason to expect them to be any worse than the previously available offerings. Definitely some nice 'quality of life' changes in there, assuming the changes to feedtube/retention and the hop don't royally screw feeding up it's hard to see how it could be objectively worse... I'm sat here hoping they'll turn their eye to the AK platform now, though I'm not holding my breath! In terms of playing around with hop components that's just the nature of the beast, and airsoft fallacies regarding 'the best length and bore barrel' certainly confuse things slightly. But it's all part of the fun, I love tinkering around... even if the end result ends up worse than where I started. It's such a simple platform to work on swapping things back is a piece of cake (Phoenix hop aside, but my experience is anecdotal at best).

So, when my site owner said to get my UKARA number tatooed on my arse it was a wind up? I wish I had known sooner...

Hi, ALL! 👋 Another weekend I can’t play, my site was booked up! 😞 So did a review on my item, I purchased back at the beginning of the year before the SHTF! 😷 So enjoy it for what it is! 🔫😎👍 💷GAMBLE💷

This is actually one fine PMC kit!

You know what's worse than an M4 stock on an AK? Bullpupped AK.

Dayum!

i dunno, he's at least not put an m4 stock on it. not a massive fan of the railed top covers but i can respect the choice compared to trying to get a siderail mounted properly.

stock: https://www.shapeways.com/product/8GRU2K5NS/silentshot-rdp-stock-adapter?optionId=61066675&li=marketplace https://www.shapeways.com/product/RCHZUD79U/rdp-stock-assembly?optionId=61317781&li=marketplace thread adapter: https://www.shapeways.com/product/7NETG77AN/rdp-spectre-threaded-adapter?optionId=93467544

The problem people have when it comes to plastic guns is they assume all plastic is that low quality crap you get on those 10 pound bb guns from the post office. Then they also assume all metal is created equal too. A good quality plastic gun feels way better than a pot metal chinese replica. G36 is a brilliant airsoft gun. The real rifle however might have issues with accuracy this is airsoft we talking about.

SIG 55 series, multiple manufactures make them in varying price ranges, ambidextrous controls, good hop with good access.

Yeah but Confucius was only 22 in that depiction....

if that has a big dragon M160 motor in there it will fire like fucking high speed 45k rpm on a spring producing 240fps that is a third of the power but some of that is likely due to nozzle filed too short and not sealing against bucking 101% but regardless... the motor is over double the speed of a regular stock/std motor or 50% more than a balanced 25~30k motor low fps/spring, weak spring - yeah you would be hitting even more... motor alone would shoot 25rps on 18:1 gears @ say 340fps add in high speed gears you could acheive say 33rps on 7.4v or 50rps on 11.1v but would be risky on 11.1v weak spring would take it higher money has been spent on it - perhaps but seems like a piss poor tech assembled it OR it WAS assembled correctly onnce but some wanna be has fucked it up & just decided to flogg it on, cutting their losses with it and off loading it motor if a Big Dragon M160 is way too fast, should have strong silver neodym magnets or if not is crappy M120 with weak ferrite - very fast still but not as much grunt (they both tend to draw too much current and run hot - m140 is best motor) gears/box - don't know but looks like it assembled in the dark that could be a hairline cracking starting to appear sooooo if that is correct, then you will need to look at a new gearbox shell £25 https://www.taiwangun.com/gearbox-shell/ver-2-hybrid-gearbox-shell-aps & time to fit it & rectify other issues BUT I would NOT get a APS shell tbh... you want something robust that works than a metal speed mofo in a shell that cracks if you fart near it you can try to contact the seller and at the VERY LEAST seek the cost of a new shell (if that is a fracture appearing - looks like it) or a tech's time say 1hr @ £25 to sort the thing failing that - start a paypal dispute (please don't tell me you gifted the seller money) I'd like to give seller benefit of the doubt & hope this issue can be resolved but at times people selling stuff that is far from description or offloading stuff/shit on its last legs well - that doesn't sit too well with me personally especially when newcomers get left a little bit stung perhaps The issue with some newcomers apart from being a bit naieve if their UKARA hasn't come through, there are people keen to flog shit & ask no questions or you got less comeback (I got stung like that when I first started) get UKARA, buy new shit and forget buying broken guns from moody sellers (now I simply break all my own guns instead )

RIFT are Hertfordshire based and have expanded to a number of new sites recently. Might be worth giving them a shout.

Getting there with my WW2 British kit, webbing all Blanco'd green. Just gotta get myself a lid, and decide what patches I'm going to have...

Go Titan battery, Double (at least) the capacity over the lipo's

Single shots draw more power than continued fire. Same way that pulling away in a car uses more energy. If the DMR is also mosfetted. You can add into that additional motor braking. My TM Recoil will do about 7-8 mags on single fire, before it is flat. My PTW a little more but way less than when I play on a full auto site. Fuck i hate single fire sites.

Nobody there will give a stuff how you got it, so long as you're circumspect about how you transport it there. In the boot of a car, fine. If you carry it on a bus in a gun shaped bin-bag while wearing camo and whispering "Soon, mighty Satan, soon", that might not go so well. Check with the site about their age limits: you'll almost certainly need a parent or guardian to sign a consent form. Some sites (or their insurers) might not be too happy about you playing solo under 16. It's very much site dependent though, andif you're half sensible, and take your hits, they might not be hugely bothered in practice.

Couple of pics from the gangster city event at sparta.

Felt cute, might defend El Alamein later idk. Just threw together some shorts and a shirt for the desert campaign look, probably won't spend the money on proper repro desert kit, given there aren't too many deserts in the cotswolds. But this looks decent.

I've just put my first proper WW2 kit together after years of spending all my money on guns instead... I went for a British Commando look mostly because... Well I'll be honest, it was the cheapest. And having just mostly drained my funds getting the new Northeast Sten MkV, it needed to be! It considerably helped cost wise that I already had the bergen, scarf, and got the boots off my dad, from his time in the navy. I will be replacing those ill-fitting gaiters as soon as possible. For a more early war look, removed the scarf and grabed the M1928. Now I've just got to get to a game in it!