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At this point it's starting to feel like every second buyer or seller is going to bust out a tale about how they're a Nigerian Prince working on the North Sea oil rig, but their very most trusted courier will collect or delivery much securely with no worry risks once you have by Western Union payment done.

I put bluing paste on it and this happened

Totally agree with this , really boils my piss when you see this especially on classified adds , “Only needs xyz part but doesn’t effect performance” well in that case get the fecking part and fix it then ! Also how can you say “doesn’t effect performance” if it’s an actual part and NOT just simply a bit of frippery bolted on to make the gun look more realistic ? if the manufacturers used it as part of the gun then odds are you probably do need it to be there for optimum performance ?🤦‍♂️ Or another favorite of mine is “needs xyz part only a couple of quid” yes the part is only a couple of quid BUT no one has the part in stock and it hasn’t been in stock for a very long time ! Recently came across a TM recoil AK with a busted selector for sale and the seller had said that exact thing , so having spent over 18mths trying to get one my self as there pretty much out of stock everywhere , I said so on the add as the guy was asking near new money for it because it could still fire full auto but no safe or semi and I felt he was trying to pass it on to some unsuspecting chump .

Yep. A bit like trying to punt a car that keeps breaking down. Except you're asking almost full price for it. "Don't worry mate, it only needs a new clutch. And three tyres. And a cylinder head gasket. And the sumps leaking, but if you top it up every day you'll be fine. The timing belts due in a couple of thousand miles Oh, and the aircons pumped as well. And did I mention the back speakers are iffy and cut out now and again? Now you mention it, the tappets are a bit rattly. All easily fixed though, honest mate..." Anyone with half a brain would run a mile. Regardless if it's a 10 year old Honda Accord with the above maladies, a Boeing 737 with 100000 flight hours on the clock on the service of an African airline with a dubious maintenance regime, a washing machine that sounds like a Apache on takeoff or a Lancer Tactical M4 that is hopelessly pumped for *insert bullshit reason here*, if it's almost full RRP but in any state of unserviceability, you need yer heid looked at if it's what constitutes a "bargain" or some sort of attractive deal.

Yes, they are the main supplier of WE parts. They do have the 'split order' option for airsoft toys to get past border control 😉

Looks good. I'd go a bit easy on the scratching though - the bit around the large thumbwheel looks a bit excessive to me. Most of these parts are hand tightened so you wouldn't expect tool marks really.

Scoff you may, There are two for sale on Zero Mong for the £3-400 mark wish I had the spare ££ to buy more of them 😂😂😂 I need somebody to buy them so as I can sell mine for £500 😂😂

"Do I need a proper ghillie to be a sneaky sniper? Do I need to shell out for a full leaf suit and spend hours, days, weeks, months, years crafting it to perfection?" No. No you do not. One of the marshalls finally found me and snapped a pic of me being one with the bush. This is my lightweight, summer loadout that I've been using because my current ghillie isn't great in woodland as it's really a grassland ghillie and gets caught on literally everything (Worthing Airsoft has basically no grass). Rifle wrap is Sprinter Custom Ghillie and the hood is a Stich Profi Russian leaf hood. Haven't crafted anything onto either of them (the SCG stuff doesn't need crafting anyway...), just picked a good spot that didn't silhouette me and kept still

I'm not sticking my tip in there for anyone! Yub yub kersnip! On a slightly more serious note, I got a new set of connector leads for my charger (to dodge my dodgy soldering on the original set). As I used the Titan it a little on Sunday, I decided to top it up. I expected a good few minutes of charging to do that, so when it took *seconds* I suspected the worst. I got my battery monitor on it, and sent the readings off to Titan to confirm its charged and healthy. They replied very quickly. With S1 = 4.20v and S2 = 4.21v, I'm (allegedly) "fine and dandy". Which means the two or three hundred bb's it powered on Sunday were merely scraping the icing off a big 3000mAH cake!

Something I've seen people do with pauldrons is either add some scaffolding underneath to raise it up or wear a UBACS with Velcro on the sleeves underneath and stuck velcro to the underside of the pauldron. Maybe start following some cosplayers to watch how they build armour.

At the other end of the spectrum, I sometimes call hits only to realise a moment later it was likely some debris falling from the trees.

Might be the approaching tinkle of the 'festive' season and Little Scammer Johnny has been promised a new gat but Big Scammer Johnny can't source or afford one. Or I could just be a cynical old cop.

It's a good start, I wouldn't go any harder, it's much easier to a bit more than a bit less. I'd be tempted to give it an oil wash and wipe over to soften the contrasts. It's used and worked but maintained when possible.

I used to do this kind of stuff for a living (many moons ago) and soldering is definitely a skill you can improve with practice. A temperature controlled iron is well worth it but get a decent one with enough wattage to solder the things you're trying to work with - 30W ish should do the job well. You want something that can heat the joint surfaces quickly enough that you're not going to get a "cold" joint but not so hot that you just melt everything! Lead free solder is fine as long as you use the right soldering tips and work at the right temperature. A solder sucker is worth it's weight in gold for those moments when you've been a bit cack handed and have to start again. Pre-tin the cable and connector before you start and get a decent blob of properly flowed solder on the connector. Hold the two together then apply some more heat with maybe a small bit of extra solder and away you go.

Decided to get some photos of my senior NCO kit (Oberscharführer) before a milsim next weekend. Odds are I'll be using my mp40 but it's currently with a tech who's fixed it up for me. Honestly even with full wool on under my camo it still didn't feel too warm surprisingly so I think I'll definitely stick with the over layers for this one I think. I hope you like these pics and the second set is the basic panzergrenadier kit most of my guys will be running.

Finally remembered to take a pic while out. I'm definitely in the "premium" stage of my kit 😂 Though the ghillie is crafted, I'm using a Viper concealment vest base, some jack pyke stealth camo hide net, and some raffia and fake plants. I've had people walk right past me when I'm low to the ground. Using some jack pyke digicam soft shell clothing, which is decently warm and waterproof, and seems to be a good camo pattern though possibly approaching a bit dark for this time of year. Also a digicam balaclava that's been cut up and attached to my mesh mask. A simple kombat chest rig with their molle yoke for holding my knife and comms, and a hydro pack on the back. It's a nice lightweight kit with a surprising amount of space for things. Also a drop leg dump pouch, no idea what brand, I just bought it of some guy. Not pictured is the tactical bum bag, very handy I must say. Gun is a nuprol ak21, all the compression and hop parts have been changed, and it's getting new gears, motor, and mosfet soon. Pretty nice so far, it throws 0.36s out to a bit past 60m at 1j. Also a hawke 3-9x scope, really nice for woodland I find. I can track shots through narrow gaps in bushes easily, and the little rmr on top means I can be reasonably quick at close range. It's covered in jack pyke tough tape.

Anyone else noticed the preponderance of Wanted ads recently especially for (currently) Rare items such as GHKs where the seller name is something along the line of Smith 123 or Banana456...ie Some random word followed by a number string? Call me suspicious but they just don't sit right with me. Of course, it does give the opportunity to laugh at them saying they have £400 to buy your GHK off you.....

Oh airsofters never change. Some gems from yesterday: "Push forward!" - Screamed by the same few people who always seemed to be at the back of the crowd 🤫 "I upgraded my gun to a 11.1 lipo" "I felt a hit from the side but took a look and there wasn't anyone there, so didn't call it. Then I got shot again and noticed there was someone hiding in a bush" Player: "Guys, I've just been hit by a sniper" Marshal: "Dead men don't talk" Player: "That doesn't count because I didn't say where he is"

I use this, it can be dissolved into isopropanol to make a liquid flux. If you are dissolving it you can make any strength you want. Clean up is also done with isopropanol after the solder is complete. Trying to clean it up with water is tedious as it's tree sap resin. On a good joint it'll often pool up well and can be flicked off with the tip of a scalpel. 60/40 is a good all rounder but 63/37 is true eutectic and doesn't have a mushy phase going almost directly from a liquid to a solid. 60/40 in contrast has a very short mushy phase that you have the be careful to observe on large parts that hold heat, When it's setting you have to make sure the parts can't move during this phase as it'll give you bad joints. The main difference in the 2 is 63/37 wets out a little better and gives a brighter joint. Both will eat copper based soldering tips on cheap irons. I use both solders, but on deans I tend to go for the 63/37 as the connectors have a lot of mass. Getting a big enough tip on the iron is also essential you need either enough power or enough heat and mass in the iron to be able to solder as quickly as possible without putting too much heat into the deans. If you don't get the power/heat/mass right you'll end up having to hold the tip for a long time, and the deans will begin to melt.

I know you change your mind under distance selling rules but I think you have to returning it in an unused condition, if you have used it, then it would be warranty on faulty if it is faulty. Faulty doesn't cover user error/assembly error unfortunately unless the instructions are wrong.

No; just let it turn itself into a RIF.

4" kwc version on here https://www.grahamcurriemilitaria.co.uk/index.php/airsoft-guns/pistohttps://www.grahamcurriemilitaria.co.uk/index.php/airsoft-guns/pistols

Best all round soldering iron you can get is one of these https://www.tooled-up.com/weller-8100udk-expert-soldering-gun-kit/prod/12425/https://www.tooled-up.com/weller-8100udk-expert-soldering-gun-kit/prod/12425/ I never use my full soldering station anymore as these are so good.

Afternoon fellow warriors. A few days off, so having done assorted chores around the house, decided to do some more work on the armour. Dremelled away most of the rough edges and cut out space for arms and belly to avoid any stormtrooper-esque mishaps. I wonder if that's why they are so bad at shooting? Anyway, some progress today. Next step will be starting to glue things together and shape, which should prove fun.

Yeah, but that's with their 'full fat' spring giving > 400fps. The problem is over-running the gearbox when there's less resistance from our namby-pamby 310fps (when new) springs. So that's why Patrolbase etc recommend the 7.4v instead. I'm sure there's a degree of 'CYA' in that, but it makes logical sense. The good news is the empirical evidence suggests the DE internals are well put together and can cope (at least for a decent time) So 11.1v is not a terrible idea. In fact with all this talk of the damned things I've just ordered the cheap 11.1v 1200mAH Nano-Tech from HobbyKing (slightly different version from the one I'd seen that triggered my previous post), because it's a stupendously cheap £11 delivered, so I'm going to try it. And I could do with an extra spare battery so why not. As I said to Jake though, I've got a couple of guns that'll fill in if the DE dies on me. As he's just got one, it's a slightly different equation. I seem to be fairly unlucky with my kit, I may be being unreasonably risk-averse (Here's the cheapo battery: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-1200mah-3s-15-25c-lipo-airsoft-pack-t-connector.html)

Yes, that can help the aged look and also reduce the effect of over-done parts. That 'bluing' is a very thin layer so can be scratched very easily.

Hmm, on the second time of trying, it appears that I've had a solid M4 stock not even make it out of China again. From what I can make out from the AliExpress tracking, it's been rattling round inside China, was returned (twice, apparently) and has been sent out again. I know some folk have had gear come through OK, but I'm having patchy luck. No idea why, or what's triggering it (badum tsssh).

I solder Deans with the connectors paired together, and with the far terminal clamped in a pair of surgical forceps to help with heat distribution and dissipation.

Of course you can get an adapter, but you can also easily rewire your plug and swap it from mini tamiya to deans, to get the full benefit of deans stability. You can also rewire the battery plug, but be careful not to short-circuit the LiPo while doing so, i.e: do one wire at a time.

A new Crye shirt from these very forums !

It’s definitely a skill that you can improve on, I used to be shocking but after a few months of practice my solder joints are now neat and strong! Patience is the key!

I've started using those as well. Went with XT60's for ages, but I find deans easier to re-use. The Amass ones are easier to grip but they're also easier to pull apart anyway (but still hold well). I still heat shrink the connectors though. My soldering skills are massively crap too (as in, "how is the table on fire and the connectors have melted but the fucking solder is still a solid!"), but an adjustable temp one has helped a bit.

Oh yes, those are nice. Haven't seen those before. They're slightly bigger than the cheapo Deans connectors but nice grip surface.

You should get some heat shrink tubing Great for covering and protecting joints. Also good to keep two or more wires together.

ITT: people who'd have an aneurism if they saw me soldering

I do think the new BTP camo works better now we're in the autumn, even the desert version would do a better job blending in with the golden leaves that are all over the ground and the low trees. Dark stuff was less effective and sticking out a bit more than usual yesterday... In the morning I was wearing a black camo UBACS style undershirt, and I wished I'd bought the multi-cam version instead. I definitely don't need stuff slowing me down. That would = stopped A massive shout-out to this chap, who did the WW2 load out properly... He even lit up a pipe during the rest/reload breaks for the full effect Tally-ho!

Lead free solder is a big problem, mainly because it produces poor joints and what is refereed to as dry joints. Here are some fluxes I use. Kalifornia - cleaning the tip of the iron. Made from real ROSIN... Pasta do Lutowania - which is a paste in a tin that is made out of the Kalifornia stuff WODA Lutownicza - for very difficult metals like the ali wires that chinesuim sellers palm the west off with... Topnik TK83 - great for any wire and PCB, the one I use most of. AG Kwas Lutowniczy - a silver based flux or flux for silver, I use this on difficult metals that WODA Lutownicza or Topnik TK83 doesn't work with. IN ALL CASES NOTE THAT THESE FLUXES REQUIRE SPECIAL HANDLING as they are all toxic and are corrosive and a couple are going to pose a serious respiratory problem as in lung damage, so you need to be in a well ventilated space with a fan blowing the fumes outdoors or under a soldering hood or a face mask with open ventillation. ALSO WEARING GLOVES as they are corrosive besides pretty toxic. Suggest that you also buy LEAD SOLDER, it is still available but be careful as many chinese sellers hook people with LEAD SOLDER when its actually the lead free stuff. What you need is the Sn60Pb40 mix for a good all rounder. Solder iron... what do you use? If its your common or garden variety type like you see in home depot or B&Q or similar, then you should buy yourself a temperature controlled one, I got one on eBay for £12 and goes up to 450 degrees Celsius. Many irons do not have great thermal dynamics and can be too hot and you risk cooking the board layers or a component or even unintentionally introducing too much heat and some SMD's may have "Floated" from their posts and now produce a short or bad signal. Temperature control is as important as soldering technique. Good luck sorting it out...

Some AR builds I've finished in the last year or so. If I went by my usual social media schedule I'd end up not posting them for a couple of years which feels a waste so just overviews for now and I'll post more later. Krytac LVOA-S KWA LM4c TM SOCOM

Ahoy and welcome. We have quite a few "veterans" here, in either human or airsoft years, and it's a more constructive environment for discussion that "lol jk m8" Facebook groups tend to be.

They are a bit wibbly, a washer / o-ring / springy-thing can be used to firm them up. Not that they should need it, mind. Much more betterer, I believe.

Austrian Box ready for tomorrow. (Sunday 21st)

Feeling arty again, some shots of the tools. Tactical cat likes the UAR...

I won't pretend to know how this one was weaponised. The bigly genius involved may have been sufficiently determined to unscrew one fast enough to turn it into an eyeball seeking missile. That's another thing about airsoft: there are plenty of mistakes that you'll only make once, but there's never a shortage of folk ready to make them.

Final Fantasy 14. As a vanilla WoW veteran (seriously, been playing since 2004), I was expecting a trash weeb game with a furry agenda (though on that last point I gave it some wiggle room since WoW is pretty bad with that and we all know it...) I found a great game with a pretty vibrant and loving community, as well as devs who seem to genuinely care and take player feedback on board. It's hard watching a grown man break down into tears because he has to announce that he's delaying the launch of an expansion by 2 weeks because he felt it didn't have enough QC time, where Blizzard by comparison would just release unfinished expansion after unfinished expansion with the general feeling of "we've heard your feedback and it doesn't align with how we want to make the game, so you can stick your opinions where the sun don't shine. You whales will keep paying for it anyway". I have now embraced the fact that I am, in fact, a bunny girl and I expect you all to treat me as such.

At Military Odyssey Last Weekend in my 2006 era Timor patrol kit DPCU Land125 cut uniform, DPCU Land125 Assault vest and various pouches, DPCU armour vest, Early Camelback (owned since 2004), Land125 drop leg panel with 40mm pouches, Redback Terra Boots. Rabintex 303 helmet with: DPCU cover, NSEAS type 12 Mount, TAGir strobe, ESS goggles, Rifle is a JG based AUG with various mods. Very rare GB-Tech 203 mount kit.

Pencott wildwood loadout plus a husky 🤣

Ghost: HK416A5 V2 w/ upgraded internals:

I’ll spare the full run down unless someone actually wants it, but I officially think I’m ‘there’ in terms of my ideal kit. Took a lot of trial and error to get there, but extremely happy with where it’s ended up. Swapping between AK and AR is a simple case of changing placard on the chest rig.

If you have a defence, you have a defence. Bringing split packages into the mix is going to raise some unnecessary red flags imo.