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Just had the joy of stripping this down as it went full auto when testing it prior to posting as it was provisionally sold. One faulty trigger micro switch I’d the culprit. Whilst it’s open I’ll replace with a Tokyo marui hop rubber and hope that when the new microswitch arrives and I put it back together it’s one that will only need to be reopened once in a blue moon. if you have had the pleasure of servicing a cyma/Tm m14 then this is even more fun.

Like all memes some truth in it, just a magnet and a micro switch but it’s on the outside not in the feeding area. It’s actually less of a problem than the trigger microswitch wire routing which is a going to be a joy to replicate on the new one (I don’t think)

Liking the shottie holster! Finally with Christmas play time managed to finish what I’m calling an AK105-VSU. Tried and hopefully succeeded in painting it in such a way it works with both the GZ and RG load outs 🤞

I regularly refer people to the following diagram and i myself follow it not just for pistols by GBBRs too. As for OP, yeah most metal in airsoft is cheap Chinesium (POT) metal cast from moldings, only CNC'd parts are better but incredibly expensive. And there is much to be desired for the finishes in airsoft, TM cerakoating there MWS was an excellent move on the half. Also I own two TM M9s, one is a TM M92FS which was my first TM pistol (and my conversion to TM) and the TM Albert .W Model P01 (TM M9A1 with Resident Evil Blue Umbrella trades) love them both and whilst i still own my original TM M92FS i mostly use the Albert one. Ill never forget the day i tried my TM M92FS at my first skirmish, up till then i had used WE because "METAL SLIDE" 🤪 and was mostly just expecting the same shit range and accuracy. To see the TM M92FS shoot and the BB just going, and going and going in a straight line until i could no longer see it made me go "WOW, what is the magic in this?" 🤯

Not only are almost all metal airsoft guns made of shit metals, the surfaces finishes are generally really shit paints and from what I've seen over the years that seems to apply even more so to the pistols than the rifles. Actual kydex is nails as plastics go and it'll eat airsoft grade paints all day, especially those used on anything Nuprol rebrands and all the other super common metal guns out there. You can also damage TM plastic if you've got a tight kydex holster, but it'd have to be mega tight and abrasive to do anything more than aesthetic wear (and you'd have to do a shit ton of draws).

First game day of 2022 and it was pretty damn good. VSR is now shooting well enough where I can upgrade my claims on it from "it has an effective range of 75m" to "it has an effective range of 85m". Took it to the range when no one was there, deployed the bipod and started plinking to zero the scope for the day. Was hitting the 75m target every time (they're metal and make a very audible dink when hit), so I decided to try for the 85m target. Aimed and fired and there was that satisfying dink. Shot again, another dink. Again? Another dink. Literally hitting the target, which is about half man-size, every single shot without me having to tilt the rifle; just put the crosshair on it, pull the trigger and watch the BB sail towards it. Was so happy and then took it out into the game and got so many kills with it. The ghillie continues to work flawlessly and I'm really loving it. Felt bad because someone crept around the outskirts of the site on a massive flank that took a looooong time, then walked right past me and got mk23'd in the back. He then came back along a path I was watching and was victim to about an 80m shot. Good day for sure! However, it started absolutely tipping it down after lunch so now I have to dry my ghillie, rifle wrap, take apart my mk23 so it can dry out. I think the VSR is fine as I stopped playing pretty soon after it started raining, but I'll probably stand it up with the bolt open so it can get some air through it anyway. And no, I didn't stop because "oh no, it's raining!" I stopped because my thumb cuticle got caught in the bipod when I was deploying it and it tore away about a 2cm square of skin from my thumb and started bleeding profusely. I stayed where I was for the time being and got a few kills, taking off my fingerless glove and clenching my thumb into it, but as soon as I had to move from my hide I called it a day because I couldn't properly use my rifle one-handed. It's fine when the bipod is deployed and I'm watching an area, but having to move, maybe take a shot or two, re-deploy... Not doing that one-handed. Oh, I also needed to get a plaster on it Roll on the next game day!

unless they don't make it I always go TM for pistols

This might make someone chuckle, it's from my local sites Christmas game back on the 19th December which was a bloody cold day and is out in the country, where I played with my 12 year old son and his two cousins (12 and 14). The sun had just set at 4 pm and we all played one final game, marshals vs all other players, and the last player standing wins a free game day. Lasted about 20 minutes and the marshals shout "Game Over", so back to the safe zone, and then off to the raffle that had loads of good prizes with each of the four of us having tickets. Half way through the raffle, so about 20 minutes after game over, I notice that my son and his younger cousin still aren't at the raffle so call their phones, no answer, where the hell are they? The youngest cousin's ticket then wins an £80 Nuprol shotgun, but there's no sign of them, the marshals wait as long as they can but have to re-draw the ticket and give it to someone else. All very odd so a marshal goes off looking for them. About 40 minutes later they were both found hiding under a bush, freezing cold in the pitch black, thinking the game was still on! 😆

Yep 70s don't deform as easily as 50s and 60s, give much better results in full auto fire than the softer counterparts. 50s are way too soft even at 1J.

@RostokMcSpoons you've put it together already but check the air vents of the piston head, make sure they are clear. It's easy to over-lube and block resulting in the oring being able to push out.

I have some experience using revolvers for competition use. the Dan Wesson are very hit and miss, it’s only worth getting one with the adjustable hop even when they work you tend to find that as already stated single action is usually better than double as the cylinder lines up more regularly than when double auctioned via the trigger. i usually get a random flyer in every cylinder regardless of how I shoot it. (It’s not the same chamber or cartridge every time). make sure if you are purchasing new you get the moonclip ready cylinder as this provides another loading option as the quick loader slightly fouls on the body of the gun when the gate is swung out so if you prefer loading with moon clips you are sorted. they are pretty consistent and with adjustable hop they are not bad at all, my hop rubber did look like it was covered in candle wax though and a good clean transformed the range. the 715 is the better system with the forward opening lever but the choice is yours

IT'S ALIVE (Thanks feck for that!) Now my problem is that it's running a little on the spicy side! 360-370fps with 0.20g. The hop unit doesn't appear to impinge much on the barrel, even when fully on, so hop adjustment might not be enough to tame the beast I have created. I may have to get an M95 and fit that. But the motor seems to be running smoothly, and snappily, even on the half-charged NimH 1600mAH 8.4v I've been testing with. When I slap on a Mosfet and plug in the 11.1v Li-Po it should be awesome I have had one jam in the barrel, hopefully that's just down to the crappy 0.20g BB's I'm using

just match to the battery then. tamiya connectors can be weird in airsoft, they tend to be wired reverse to RC batteries so it's not a given that the colours match. presumably for the same reason as the eclectic wire colouring- because electrical engineers are a strange bunch. as long as you keep track in your mind (write it down if needs be) which goes where then that'll do the job. if the motor runs backwards just swap the wires over problem solved. you could try swapping the o rings over, see if that does it, there's other tricks like stretching the o rings or swapping them out for one slightly oversize. that's an alu head isn't it? i know some of the plastic mushroom heads have issues with the texture of the plastic giving a poor seal but the alu one shouldn't. never needed to cut a window and the only box i've had the luxury of viewing the motor mesh is the open bottomed a&k mg boxes, which funnily enough are awful for accumulating dirt+crap in them. start by getting the idler and sector shimmed down as far as they'll go (working on the left hand half of the box) and such that they're running free even when the box is tightened up and tilted all different directions. that'll give you the most wiggle room on the bevel to go up/down as needed, then shim that as above (so you know your starting point of say 1mm total, then you can swap shims from one side to the other to move it up and down) you can try the bevel in the right half with the motor cage in position to give a very rough starting point, then it's just try it, adjust, try it again. running the motor with just the gears can give an idea of how much noise there is, how smooth everything is sounding etc. once you've got the bevel height where you want it, check how much overlap there is between the pinion and the idler and if necessary raise the idler/sector just to keep a decent overlap (ie that you're not driving on only half the teeth)

Hi, ALL! 👋 Here is my first video of 2022, my plans for this year? 🤔 Doing the best with what I have, enjoy it for what it is! 🔫😎👍 💷GAMBLE💷

Specnas are getting notorious for being fussy about mags, and my SA-E02 is no different. With the stock hop unit (a decent rotary) It feeds fine off of its own mid caps, and is OK with hi-caps, but didn't want anything to do with other mid caps. Reddit sez "lol just change the magazine catch lol", but nobody seems able to explain why, or for what, or how this helps. So I decided to science it out by measuring mags, and testing the feed tube interface. Specna mid cap vs M16VN short mag, total length front to rear, and from the front of the mag to inside the feed. The overall length can be measured precisely, but it's harder to get an exact measurement on the front of mag to inside the magwell tube, so I've been a bit approximate there. It might not be a full 1mm difference, but when the fronts are aligned, it's apparent that the Specna feed is further back. With the rears of the mags aligned, they're a closer match. The Specna mags also have a conical section at the top of the feed. With the hop unit removed from the gun and tested with both mags (to isolate just that issue), this provides a noticeable smoother insert: it's a smart bit of design. I'd seen speculation that the Specna hop tube was "pencil dicking" mags and not big enough to key in solidly without free play. I didn't find this. If anything, the hop tube was slightly sticky when going into the VN mags, and there was no free movement at all once it was in. The last significant point was the the BB stopper on the VN mags has a flat section that protrudes slightly into the tube, whereas the Specna doesn't. This lip provides a significant obstacle to the hop feed tube, and it needs a harder push-and-wiggle to move the stopper back and get the feed tube right in. Either because of this, or a stronger stopper spring, or something else in the magazine geometry, it also needs more effort to keep the hop unit pressed all the way into the VN magazines. Some slight exaggeration for effect: So: what did I do? 1. Carefully filed and sanded a slight conical shape on the bottom edge of the feed tube to assist keying it into the mag. There's a fair amount of material there to play with. Just give it some help to find the magazine, and to let it get and stay all the way in. 2. Do some more aggressive filing on the back of the feed tube, to produce a flat ramp where it meets the BB stopper. This looks aggressive, but bear in mind that most of the height of the tube is left intact, so there's still no free play. The BBs are going up the middle, and as long as there's any material at the rear, the BB stopper will be pushed far enough back. With this done, the feed tube isn't fighting as hard against staying all the way in the magazine. 3. Magazine fettling. Since I want to keep the Specna mags usable, rather than modifying the magwell I've added half a mm of tape at the front of the VN mags to give them the same size as the Specna mags, and to move the feed backwards to more closely match the Specna. I've put some silicone grease on top to help it slide in without tearing, and might replace it with velcro depending how it stands up. If I wanted to only use these mags, and not have the Specna mags fit any more, I'd put a velcro strip inside the front of the magwell instead. Result: a smoother insertion and perfect feeding of the VN mags. In fact, I got reliable feeding from one even before adding the tape at the front, so it seems like just a small mod to the end of the feed tube does help. The mags need a good hard push to get the magwell catch locked in place, which is perhaps where the Reddit wisdom is coming from, but once in place they're solid. That's not the problem, at least on my example, with my magazines. Best of luck.

I bit the bullet yesterday, an e-mail from BBGUNS4LESS offering me 5% off of my unplaced order / basket triggered it, and a Double Eagle M908A is now on the way to be setup as a DMR. In the UK right now there are only two retailers left with it in stock, BBGUNS4LESS and High Pressure Airsoft, which is a little frustrating considering that TaiwanGun has the entire M90X range in stock. I'm not a speedyboi, and enjoy hanging back a bit and playing support, so I've wanted something to use as a DMR for quite a few months and the M908A fits the bill for me. A few things that swung it for me are the longer battery cable (I use a GATE deans extension cable in my M904E), a metal receiver with only one selector so I can drill and tap a hole in it to screw in a bolt for mechanically locking it to semi-only (not everywhere will allow a DMR's MOSFET just to be set to single shot on all modes), quick change spring, the rip off GATE Titan so that in the future I know for certain I could swap in a genuine Titan easily if I wanted to, and I've taken apart my M904E's gearbox multiple times now so I'm happy to do this and the M908A's will be identical. I won't initially be doing anything major to it, but may have to if the stock piston gets chewed up (the stock rack is part metal teeth with the rest plastic, we'll see what happens), and will stick with the stock 385mm inner barrel but will swap in a Maple Leaf Macaron 70 degree + omega nub + Gearparts M120 spring (with an M130 bought as well just in-case). The stock DE piston head and spring guide both have bearings, so I'm thinking this will compress the M120 spring more than usual and get me close to my primary sites 420 FPS DMR limit. I'm going to start with 0.30g BBs, so that's why I'm using the 70 degree bucking and omega nub, and this should hop them happily. My only concerns are that my eyesight isn't what it used to be, so I'll play one game with it and may invest in a flip-to-side magnifier (nothing too cheap, but still a clone) if I do get good range, and also that the stock motor may not have enough torque to do the job (and if not it's then do I go with a brushed high-torque or a Warhead Base motor).

Ah, that's it, right enough. The H is the 7.62 big boy with the squarer mag.

Thanks for the vote of confidence @Tactical Pith Helmet, although it remains to be seen if it all doesn't fall apart on its first skirmish or is a nightmare to run about in... time will tell. @Shamal I don't even know my own strength at times... pure space marine beefcake. Oo-rah! For the eagle-eyed among you, you'll notice the shoulders are a bit squint. That was a snafu that only got picked up after I'd glued it all together. D'oh! The glue seams are very visible but it'll all be painted over anyway. Still, that black and OD look doesn't look half bad. Choices choices...

Wow! Bet that checker plate took some bending! 😉 Regards

That's brilliant.

it's a cyma so its fine but its an old design so bog standard v2 gearbox you are paying for the trades.

The Egyptian ambassador is really spoiling us.

Thanks to you both for the replies. I thought about the cerakote solution, but then the price brought me down to earth. It's a lot of money to spend on a pot metal gun. More than the price of the gun itself. I find myself being drawn back to TM black plastic.

Your CM16 LMG is in the 350fps AEG category so yeah, 50 degree would be the one to use.

If anything the whole thing is under lubed at the moment. I'll do a bit of test shooting with it then I'll take it apart again to apply some better grease. I could swap the piston over (I'm using the old one as I didn't have to worry about engagement) to see how that affects muzzle velocity as I've obviously got some excess to spare (rather than swapping the spring) Edit: I've wound out the 'quick fps adjuster' screw in the spring guide and I'm getting down to 345-355fps with some hop applied, so maybe the spring is alright as-is, but I've ordered two lots of silicon grease (one for the gears, one for the piston) from good ol' AK2M4 so I'll still be opening it up again anyway. I'm no longer filled with fear by the internals of an airsoft gun. This must be a good thing (Or a bad thing for my bank balance, as I'll be prepared to change more stuff!) It's firing at a healthy 14.3 rps with the Titan 7.4v Li-Ion. I've definitely got a double-feed issue on full auto with my old Classic Army STANAG mag, which is the one I've been filling with the 0.20g BBs for all my chrono testing. I've twice (in the space of a couple of hundred shots) had the barrel end up with several BBs inside. That's a sub-optimal scenario right there. I've only fired a few bursts through the gun with the supplied hi cap and one of my other STANAGs, they seemed ok so it might just be finicky with the mags, but I'm really going to need to 'let loose' to see how much of an issue there is. Edit2: Pinged a good few rounds on full auto with the provided hi cap mag, no problems with that one at least!

Maple Leaf and Omega nub are many peoples go to. Google AK2M4 and have a look on here for other ideas. I'm not the best person to speak re techy stuff but I think you need to check your air seal. If the seal is OK then a spring change to raise your fps to near the site limit. Without a good seal at the nozzle things get a bit too inconsistent and it isn't easy to spot any issues with anything else. Just a thought, but if you're cleaning the barrel with solvent you may have dried an o-ring out. Whatever is going on it won't be a gun specific issue, so have a good read of the Electric guns threads for people experiencing and fixing similar.

That. Airsoft magical beliefs aside, maximum range is entirely dependent on muzzle energy + sufficient hop for the BB. That's not the same as effective accurate range, but that's less of an issue for you. You just need to be banging on the site energy limit, with your BBs fully hopped. I like a little lift at the end of my trajectory so that I can be sure that I'm erring on slightly over than slightly under. Also consider the possibility that you're being outranged by DMRs, or hot guns. Shouldn't happen, does happen, one local site caught a marshal hot in game.

Question, have you actually tried it ?, does it work & shoot straight, ideally with a 300+ fps, if the answer is yes to those 3 questions then leave it be, get out & use it until it really does need looking at, by which time you'll have more info on who & where to take it to. While I can't comment on wolf armouries tech abilities, their poor customer service & general shit eating attitude is legendary, on that basis alone I'd avoid them.

So you said, but you didn't say whether you'd cleaned the barrel, silicone greased the air-seal components and/or adjusted what appears to be an adjustable hop unit. This isn't Facebook.

My collection of Asian replicas. Just got the k2 today.

You could always use the Rebuild Progress and Achievements function, this would start a re-count of all members stats and badges based on the settings you have defined in the ACP for a community this large that would likely take the system 14 days to complete but its a passive background operation so it wont harm or take down the community board. This might bring justice for the long standing members since it will re-count their entire posting history.

Had a great tail end of this year having started a new job that I love and just generally being in a really good place. Treated myself to a new bolty (a habit I'll seemingly never kick) having been gradually gathering parts for it over the last few months. Looking forward to getting back to it in the New Year having not been to a game since early November. Hope you all enjoy tonight whatever it is you wind up doing!

I’ve being using 0.25 but unfortunately at my site I’m pretty much the only support gunner so the extra range would help suppress the next set of targets that would normally be out my range I clean the barrel after every game and have tested that .25s work best the range is decent but I find I get out ranged a few times a day so my suppressive fire is unaffective

The Marui XL is the favourite choice....

ahh the joys of airsoft "compatibility"

Did some modifying over the Christmas break. Added a weathered GHK akm wood kit bought off a member on these forums, to my E&L AKM and also added a side rail optic mount to my 7.62X39mm LCT RPK to make it somewhat resemble a RPKN

Have you adjusted the hop? That is very low. Best to return if you can.

I excitedly opened my present on Christmas morning, the sheer delight when I saw the Gibson logo on the box, but when I finally got to opening it, it was empty. "What the fuck? " I yelled. "You like it? " shouted my wife. "I got you your own Gibson air guitar, now you can really rock out. "

I prefer "Priti Useless", but... urgh. It's astonishing that crossbows have flown under the radar for so long. Double-urgh, a Sikh. That's really disappointing. It does seem to be a subcontinental favourite though.

https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/gate-warfet-aeg-control-system-ver-1-1 I was thinking this one (eventually), is the Gate one better? https://www.airsoftcentral.co.uk/perun-v3-version-3-hybrid-drop-in-airsoft-aeg-programmable-mosfet.html

Well, since the incident of an intruder at Windsor with a Crossbow, the press have a new hobby horse and Prity Awful has requested a review of the legislation.

‘Unsettled’ is a new one

That's a "careful now" for "unsettling" me with that GIF

From the comments on the article, it seems that he may very well be the local Ronnie Pickwering, which is why I think the sentencing is lenient, and he should have done a stretch inside rather than being given yet another last, final, ultimate, really-mean-in-this-time chance. The courts have to pretend ignorance of social media though. Random aside, Shannon Elizabeth asked to have her character, Justice, in Jay and Silent Bob Strike Back wear glasses because "Justice is blind". Also, a gif.

Its within sentencing guidelines and higher than the minimum sentence, so not a soft touch. He had previous convictions - but did they have any relevance? If not then they cannot be taken into account in this sentencing. He plead guilty, and was therefore eligible for a reduction in sentence (but not less than minimum) Firearms – Possession with intent to cause fear of violence – Sentencing (sentencingcouncil.org.uk) From the sentencing guidelines, I would place 'culpability' in category c, and 'harm' in category 3. A – High culpability: Intention falling just short of intent to endanger life Conduct intended to maximise fear or distress (Intent to cause fear/distress, but not maximise) Sophisticated nature of offence/significant planning Leading role where offending is part of a group activity Firearm or imitation firearm discharged Prolonged incident06 B – Medium culpability: Firearm or imitation firearm loaded or held with compatible ammunition but not discharged (Pellets were found with the gun at home, but no confirmation of whether or not it was loaded during the inc0icent) Significant role where offending is part of a group activity Some degree of planning Other cases falling between culpability A and C because: Factors are present in A and C which balance each other out and/or The offender’s culpability falls between the factors as described in A and C C – Lower culpability: No intention to cause injury to persons ( I can believe that there was no intent to cause injury, just to threaten - produced a BB gun, an air weapon, and placed it to the window and made threats to the complainant, causing him some concern.") Lesser role where offending is part of group activity Little or no planning or unsophisticated offending (it was certainly unsophisticated) Firearm or imitation firearm not produced or visible Conduct limited in scope and duration (From the report I would assume this was short with Walker showing the pistol then continuing his manoeuvre to drive out of the jam) Category 1 Severe physical harm caused Severe psychological harm caused Category 2 Serious physical harm caused Serious psychological harm caused High risk of death or severe physical or psychological harm High risk of serious disorder Category 3 Alarm/distress caused made threats to the complainant, causing him some concern." All other cases not falling into 1 or 2 So with C3 and referencing table 2 for an imitation firearm I would be coming up with a 'medium community order' or between 6 months and 1 year. Possibly increase it if previous convictions are relevant and reduce a percentage for the guilty plea. The judge was more severe than me, perhaps treating it as loaded for B3, starting at 18 months and reducing to 16 months due to the guilty plea

There's this one in stock... which I've stuck in my basket https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/rocket-aug-aluminium-nozzle I've already WhatsApp'd @ak2m4 to see if he can add it to the order, but he's not read my message yet... so I can back out of that if you don't think it'll work. I measured the existing one at 25.10mm. Is that near enough (or is "a miss is as good as a mile")?

I was surprised to discover that a TM MP7 is perfectly capable of holding its own in woodland as well as urban/CQB. 6 mags and a 6.03mm inner barrel/ML bucking and they shoot miles with green gas and heavier bb’s. Get one, you won’t regret it.

The usual technical objection that with sufficient hop up, more energy does mean more maximum range. But I agree that consistency is much more important or else you'll be lobbing BBs 5m further but hitting everything except what you're aiming at.