Leaderboard

TRP back from the Cerakoters after doing some modifications

Another awesome day at Reforger, switched it up and did some different game modes this time - Infected, Juggernaut and Sniper Ambush - and I got to see a few new areas of the site. Had a blast in the last game, running completely out of BBs in the last few seconds in a final mad dash to the truck though sniper fire. Got a complimentary mag fill from @GAMBLE (cheers dude). Player conduct seemed pretty good on the whole, bar the odd grumble about hit taking (I get the impression this is par for the course). Someone got booted off site for something but I didn't see what. I switched to the G36 after lunch, and it behaved well enough, though the optic I have at the moment isn't suitable (another facog is on the way), and I found that gripping the magwell had a tendency to catch the mag release on the m4 converter. Something I'll have to train myself on. Tbh I think I prefer the ergonomics of my m4 so that will remain my primary primary for now. My entire body aches and it'll probably take me a week to recover. Bring on that next game.

Read the room, dude...

Hi fella and welcome to the good ship Afuk. 👍 Check out our friendly info warrior @GAMBLE. He has a tube channel full of information for everyone really. A laid back and informative fun channel from which you will get some good advice and insight. I have specna arms,ares,g&g and we RIF's and not had probs with any really. But then again there will be others that will have had nothing but trouble with them. It's all a bit of a gamble really. Best thing is to read as much as poss and make your own decisions. It helps if you like the look of a particular gat to start with. Have a look on playairsoft.uk for sites near you. Advice for a newbie? get a second job....you are gonna need it!😉 Just have fun,listen and call your hits 🙂👍 regards

Trying to prove your internet worth by trying to belittle an old person is quite sad. My 3 year old painted that red dot if you’ve not been sad enough to scroll that back far through my posts 😊

Care to back that up up with evidence? Just like any other convictions It appears your knowledge of the law is almost as bad as your knowledge of physics

Nah, it’s all on there it’s just in the ‘stowed’ position. Because the Unity mount sits so high their mag mount has room to stow beneath the optic rather than off to the side. Just keeps everything nice and streamlined. This is what it looks like flicked up ready to use.

I'd say some teenager holster-juggling his Glock in front of his mum's mirror for hours on end might give it a close run.

Had too much time to myself today for the first time in forever, got bored and gave the NGRS the same treatment as the MWS. Looking forward to it getting worn in, magnifier/mount not painted because I’ve barely used them since buying them so toying with selling and that’s a lot of ££ worth RS of mount that painting would hit the resale value of should I decide to.

Friends and myself used irons for 3+ years without an issue, both in CQB and large open areas. Only reason we really got optics was to help in the really dark areas of our local cqb. We've done some home made 'drills' (in quotes because they were more for cheap fun than to get more opscherater) with one very similar to the presidente one (going from google description) and didn't really have any issues with hitting a5 targets. But then I'll always advocate iron sights because I think they look very cool indeed

A visual point of reference means fuck all if its not pointing where it’s meant to be…but you must be right because I’m so old and your so operator. Go back to your teenage bitching about the MWS system being crap cause you broke it. EDIT for spelling and to apologise for thread de-rail.

I'll say. The M900 is a total unit. Sold mine a while back in favour of a scout light. It's still a great bit of kit though.... looks odd on an mp5 I must say 😀

Yesterday's little skirmish.

Instead of spamming the "How did your Airsoft game day go" thread every week, I'll keep my video posts to here. I find a lot of Airsoft gameplay videos can be a bit dull, so I try to keep mine short music video style. Hope you enjoy, and I'm open to feedback.

i had the Detonics years ago which was always good fun but this little v10 is just right , anyone got a good source for officer sized grips ?

It's certainly not the worst take on Rhodesian baby poop I've ever seen.

This’ll be me done spamming the thread for now. Found a repro RC can while looking for something else so got that sprayed up as well (and modded a tracer to pop in there). Then looked at the MWS propped up against the wall and had a sudden ‘I guess I like what I like’ moment. Reject modernity, embrace tradition. Embrace both.

I mean, anything you're using to aim with needs to hold zero or you won't be hitting whatever your aiming device of choice is aiming at? If you're using something to 'acquire a target' and you're shooting half a metre to the left of your laser mark, particularly large targets aside, you're missing. That aside, the biggest issue I've ever had with irons is eye/facepro making getting down on them much more of a pain than the 1.7"+ mounts that I'm now used to. There are certainly better and worse examples of irons, but they're all usable... especially if that's all you've ever used.

After years of faffing about with various load outs, and buying various kydex I finally bought myself a Deadly Customs shooters belt to put all my kydex on. Multicam black belt. Two moscart shell holsters. Four KWA QRF Mod2/Krytac vector mag holsters. Dump pouch. Cyma M052 holster. Viper utility pouch. Hi capa mag holster. WE Hi capa holster. EG MK5 Thunderflash holster. Two EG WP40 smoke holsters. No game for me this weekend, so next weekend will be the test.

heavy 🙃

Work in progress SD, not the most authentic but will do the job, makes fitting batteries in easier the handguard is held on by a 3D printed cap which is then pressed against by the printed suppressor. Underneath it all is still the original gun with the tri-lug and the adapter it comes with, with an Acetech Blaster M module in front of it. Will have the suppressor made in metal in the future.

Finally got my hands on a TAC41. New scope to follow, for now I’ll use the scope that’s normally on the MWS. Please ignore the RMR, I’m too lazy to take it off 😛

I detailed my knack in this thread. You need something long to push it back fully into the cylinder so you can lock it back with the bolt locking pin. This'll hold the piston back while you screw the cylinder head back on

My "iron" sights are hacked out of EVA foam, and my new secondary is a revolver. Oh, yeah, HFC HG-132 arrived today. Fun, in very short bursts. The plastic grip isn't secured that well, and the claimed energy levels for the 4" barrel version are hugely optimistic. I'm seeing 0.5J, barely above AEP levels. Consistency is meh too, not even 12" at garage ranges, making the adjustable rear sight a bit of a gimmick. Apparently it's got a fixed hop but whether it does, and what it might hop, remains to be discovered. Still, it's a revolver, it's a little better than a springer, apparently very gas efficient, and you can load from the front of the cylinder fairly quickly rather than dumping the shells. Any hit with it should be a "Yass!" moment.

i used to think very much that way, until a couple of occasions i chose/was forced into running irons only and found myself doing surprisingly well. even if the irons are off you still have a reasonably repeatable reference point for where your shots are going, which is close enough for the ranges we play at.

Consecutive previous content part 2-Ussli.com C、How to choose the motor Through the above study, we have a general understanding of the motors used by airsoft, so how to choose a motor according to our own needs? Let's first understand the relationship between motors, gears, and RPS. RPS=(motor no-load speed/60/gear ratio)*motor efficiency coefficient The no-load speed of the motor is generally based on 11.1V. Below 25,000 is a low-speed motor, 25,000-35,000 is a medium-speed motor, 35,000-45,000 is a high-speed motor, and above 45,000 is an ultra-high-speed motor. Gear ratio: The gear box is a set of deceleration gears in terms of the original working quantity. For example, 18:1 means that the motor rotates 18 times, driving the gearbox to complete one shot. The most common ones are 18;1,16:1 and 13: 1. Of course, there are also 12:1, 32:1 and DSG 9:1, TSG 6:1 and other specifications. (I will write a separate article about the choice of gears to introduce) Motor efficiency: When the motor is running with load, the speed will be lower than that with no load. The actual load efficiency value is related to the performance and load of the motor itself. Generally speaking, the motor efficiency of the motor with strong magnetism and high torque can usually reach 0.8-0.95 , The middle torque can reach 0.7-0.8, and the low torque is below 0.7 (if the load is large, the motor efficiency will be reduced, the same motor may be slightly lower in the high FPS gearbox) For example, we use a 22000 rpm original motor with 18:1 gear, and the estimated efficiency is 0.8. In theory, we can get (30000/60/18)*0.7=14.2RPS If you want to increase the RPS to about 20, there are several ways. Method 1 is to use the original motor to replace the 13:1 gear (22000/60/13)*0.7=19.7RPS. (Note that this method may have problems and will be discussed later) Method 2 is to replace the ordinary motor with 30000 rpm, for example (30000/60/18)*0.7=19.4 RPS Method 3 Replace the 16:1 teeth and use a high torque 22000 rpm motor, for example (22000/60/16)*0.85=19.5RPS We can see that the easiest way is to replace the motor with a suitable speed, because the replacement of the motor is the most convenient and fast, only need to remove two grip base screws (V3 gearbox generally needs to remove one more screw), it is easy to replace by yourself. To replace the gear set, it is necessary to disassemble the gearbox and adjust the teeth again, which is very cumbersome and difficult for many players. Of course, there are certain limitations to adjusting the performance of the gearbox only by replacing the motor, but for beginners, replacing the motor does not require opening the gearbox, which is the easiest performance modification to get started. As mentioned above, one problem with method 1 is that if a 13:1 gear is used, it is very difficult for many low-torque motors to pull the spring, and it will be necessary to replace the medium-torque or high-torque motor. It also depends on the spring used. Knowing the basic principle of matching the motor, we can choose the appropriate motor according to different needs I have compiled a principle that I follow when helping my teammates modify the rifle for your reference. Rookie: bought an original rifle, and if want to simply improve the RPS and FPS, youcan choose a cheap high-speed motor and spring (note that the low-torque motor is not recommended when the FPS exceeds 300). If the gears are nylon gears, do not use a high-torque motor, excessive torque may cause a sharp decrease in the life of the nylon gears. If you want to upgrade to a high-torque motor, first upgrade the gear to a metal gear. Want to change FPS, after replacing the large spring, upgrade the high-torque medium-speed motor to ensure that the motor has enough torque to efficiently pull the spring. Want to change RPS, upgradea high-torque and medium-high-speed motor, and match it with a small gear ratio suitable for 16:1 or 13:1 gear to obtain the required RPS. Note that even if the FPS value is not high, we do not recommend the use of low-torque motors, because high-RPS gearboxes usually use metal gears. Due to the weight of the gear (The hollow design of the advanced gear will reduce the weight by 20%), the high speed and the large inertia, the braking performance of the low-torque motor is relatively poor after the trigger is released, and the inertial firing will still occur after the trigger is released. The high-torque motor has stronger braking performance, the inertial firing situation will be improved a lot, the feel of the entire shooting will be improved a lot, and the response time and heat of the first shot will also be improved. Gearbox with ETU(electronic trigger unit):Because the ETU has requirements on the torque and braking performance of the motor, the ETU needs to be matched with a medium or high torque motor. ETU users can be divided into three categories: Listen to the old players sayingETU is good, follow the trend and use ETU without thinking: Just choose a medium or high torque motor according to FPS and RPS. In fact, such people have not yet realized the difference in feel between mechanical switche and ETU, and even if they use the best motors, they may not understand the difference.。 Mainly play AUTO, install ETU in order to improve the shooting feel (smooth brakes): It is recommended to usethe medium-high-speed, high-torque motors, which can get faster RPS and comfortable feel. The higher the torque motor, the quicker the starting response, the faster the braking, and the lower the heat generation. Those who mainly play SEMI, especially SQB players: using a high-torque motor is an entry-level configuration. For players who play in the back row and need single-shot firepower to suppress, the motor needs to continuously start the brakes, which requiresa certain performance and also heat generation will dramatic increase. At this time, it is recommended to use a brushed motor with the highest torque and high temperature resistance magnetic tile. If the budget is sufficient, you can consider upgrading to a brushless motor. However, a factor needs to be considered at this time, because the circuit logic of some ETUs may conflict with the circuit control logic of some brushless motor motherboards, and incompatibility may occur during work. Long-term use will affect the performance of brushless motors. Compatibility needs to be tested in advance when choosing a brushless motor. The brushed motor and ETU will not have this problem, the biggest problem is the wear of the carbon brush. Since the motor heating caused by the ETU brake is much higher than that of the mechanical switch, it is recommended to use a low-heating and high-temperature resistant high-torque motor. Players who only hang the rifle on the wall or play at home：it is the same with or without a motor. Players needextreme violent RPS and FPS：Currently only brushless motors can meet your challenge of extreme performance. Knowing so much, we can basically draw a conclusion: without considering the budget, the priority order of motor selection is always: brushless > high torque > medium torque > low torque As the saying goes, you get what you pay for, and this can also be intuitively fed back from their prices. The brushless motor has the highest price, the higher the torque motor, the higher the price, and the lower the torque motor, the cheaper the price. Of course, there are some bad manufacturers who falsely standardize the performance and pull the price, and it is possible to buy products whose performance does not meet the standard. However, Cheap motors are basically impossible to have good overall performance. Finally, summarize several parameters for selecting the motor: Tips: TPA only represents the number of turns of the coil, but the performance and diameter of the copper wire of the coil are not the same, the quality of the silicon steel sheet of the rotor core of the motor is also different, and the performance of the final coil and the rotor are not necessarily the same. TPA can only be compared under the premise of the same wire, and it is only suitable for reference. The above sharing is only personal use experience, just for your reference, if there is anything unprofessional or rigorous, please point out.

TM MWS almost finished & has been a pain, but loving the result. Accidentally bought a red forward assist and mag release, but it is kind of growing on me. Also want a spare 5 - 6" handguard. Unintentionally became a Strike Industries build. Any suggestions on a colour for cerakote?

I have already done both of them things mate, but thank you for the reply

Well, we did it. Spent the day running around like nutters and shooting people 😂 I'm knackered but what a laugh. Honey badger needs a bit more oomph and I'd get more kills throwing my pistol at people rather than actually shooting it at them.🤣🤣 Game, as they say ON. 😎👍

I've formed the impression that there are people who only turn up in order to stand around at respawn pissing and moaning to anyone who will listen about all the CHEETARS that they dumped three mags into. So when I took a gun hit yesterday, I put my helmet on it and held it up above cover to give them something to shoot at and really complain about. Good, I'd like to see it to happen more often. If sites punted the worst player every day, what a hobby this would be.

Cheers for that, really interesting, I’ll check later which is the better sealing one, but agreed, could definitely be an update, Marui seem to be really good at that

Hahah get a life you wanker.

New video up on the channel, this time the review of the Bespoke airsoft ACL SAI 17. It's shockingly good.

That's actually sweet as F.

Thanks! And oh for sure, the trigger feels as weird as it looks 😅 Cerakote is from Mark @ High Calibre Coatings

Totally get that what works for one person is total gash for the next. Been running my belt setup now for about a year at lots of different sites (mainly CQB) and have found for me it strikes a great balance of load carrying/comfort/mobility. Not found it inhibits kneeling at all and it's kind of something I do a lot

With a rifle yes, although i do know what you mean with regards to pistols- far enough away where you can't instinct fire but too close to be able to take your time aiming. My solution to those engagements is to respawn

Largely depends on where you find yourself playing in my experience. I've gone through the gambit of fully loaded belt through to it just being a holster and an AR mag carrier. The sweet spot for me landing somewhere between the latter... and the latter plus a pistol mag carrier. CQB with generally shorter game length I can see a belt being a winner, but found that much weight and bulk a no go for woodland where you're out for an extended period of time. Just a bit of a killer on the hips/waist. The front PC/chest rig mounted dump pouch has been a bit of a game changer for me of late, though I have toyed with slinging one back on the belt just to have the option to speed up stowing empties over reindexing everything. Tekloks have been much the same, having such a convenient way of attaching, detaching and moving things around just shits all over tradition PALS/MOLLE. As always comes the YMMV/all subjective/I hope your purchases are all you're dreaming for (I'm aware the last one may read with some weird snarky undertone, certainly not intended) but I strongly suspect you'll wind up having some mobility issues with a belt that laoded up. Namely being able to crouch comfortably, which obviously isn't an issue if you don't take a knee often... just food for though ahead of a proper test out in the wild!

Belts are the way to go I've found.

Thanks for posting that; I am sure that you felt it was useful.

Out on our walk this morning, I decided to throw a ball for my dog. I know it’s a bit extravagant, but he does look awesome in a tuxedo! 😉

You take that picture in the local community shitter ? That floors the spitting image of the public bog in the town I grew up in ! 🤔

B、Structure of 480 Motor Bottom cover There are two common materials for the bottom cover, one is plastic and the other is metal. The two bases have their own advantages and disadvantages. The plastic bottom cover has low cost and good insulation, and it is not easy to cause a short circuit accident when the power cord is broken or loosened. However, the heat resistance limit of plastic is not as good as that of metal, At high temperature (over 250°C), it may deform and cause failure. But in fact, it is difficult to achieve such a high temperature in normal use. If there is such a high temperature, the motor itself will almost be scrapped, so this is not a very direct disadvantage at all. The CNC metal bottom cover is just the opposite. High cost and poor insulation (Most factories will spray insulating paint on the surface, but the insulating layer may be worn during disassembly and assembly, so be sure to insulate the power cord just in case), high temperature resistance, and help to dissipate heat. Motor shell The casings are basically made of metal, and some will have heat dissipation holes. However, since the motor is installed in the handle, both sides are sealed, not open space, and there is not enough heat dissipation space. Therefore, opening the heat dissipation holes has limited improvement in the heat dissipation effect. Fixing spring Keep the motor in a stable longitudinal position in the grip or motor frame. Fixing the position of the motor relies on the force on both sides of the screw of the grip bottom cover and the spring, they clamp the motor in a fixed position to achieve the effect of stable gear engagement. Motor gear The motor gear is used to engage the bevel gear of the gearbox to drive the action in the gearbox. Generally, there are two kinds of materials: nylon and metal. Metal is divided into three types: powder die casting, injection, and steel cutting. Note that the motor gear and the bevel gear must be made of the same material, otherwise the nylon gear will be aggravated and damaged. Shaft sleeve The shaft sleeve extends into the motor hole of the handle and the gearbox to fix the lateral position of the motor. If the lateral position is not fixed, the gears will be mis-engaged, which will aggravate the wear of the gears and cause damage. A good shaft sleeve and motor shaft will be fixed with bearings for better stability. Electrodes There are positive and negative electrodes on the motor tail cover, which are used to connect the power cord. Carbon brush fixing spring Keep the carbon brush in tight contact with the rotor commutator. Carbon brush There are two carbon brushes, which are respectively connected to the positive and negative electrodes, and the inner side is in contact with the rotor commutator to supply power to the rotor coil. Note that carbon brushes are consumables. After friction loss, they will not be able to supply power to the motor, and new carbon brushes need to be replaced. (Some friends find that the motor can’t work after using it for a period of time, and they think that the motor is damaged and replace the motor. In fact, check the wear of the carbon brushes at this time. It is very likely that the carbon brushes are worn out. Just replace a pair of carbon brushes. Repair the motor) carbon brushes commonly include graphite carbon brushes, copper-containing carbon brushes, (there is also a silver-containing carbon brush, the cost is high, 480 motors are generally not used). Graphite carbon brushes are relatively soft, not wear-resistant, and wear out very quickly and need to be replaced frequently. Copper-containing carbon brushes are divided into high-copper carbon brushes and semi-copper carbon brushes according to the copper content. The higher the copper content, the better the wear resistance and life, and the higher the price. However, too high copper content will lead to high hardness of the carbon brushes and aggravate the wear of the rotor commutator, so I prefer to use semi-copper carbon brushes to achieve a balance of life of each part. Rotor structure Rotating shaft Connectthe motor teeth, the heads are all D-shaped shafts Iron core Used to wind coils, generally made of silicon steel sheets. Coil Use enameled wire for winding. The thicker the wire diameter, the larger the current and the bigger the power. By the way, here is an explanation of the TPA and motor performance mentioned above. Under the same conditions, the larger the number of coils (TPA), the greater the torque and the lower the speed. The smaller the number of coils (TPA), the smaller the torque and the higher the speed. The upper performance of the gearbox is that high TPA can pull larger springs, but there will be lower RPS, and low TPA can obtain higher RPS, but cannot pull too high springs. At the same time, due to space constraints, if you want to get a higher TPA, you need to use a thinner wire, the current will be smaller, and the power of the motor will be lower, so the heat of the high-TPA motor will be relatively lower. We cannot blindly pursue high TPA or low TPA, we must choose the appropriate TPA according to the gears and springs (I recommend referring to the no-load speed of the motor to match the gearbox to obtain ideal performance, later I will talk about how to calculate and match) Commutator Contact with the carbon brush to supply power to the coil, which is a wear part, and can continue to be used by replacing the rotor after reaching the service life. However, the life of the commutator is usually much longer than that of the carbon brush, so the commutator can continue to work after the carbon brush is replaced several times (depending on the type of carbon brush). Base fixing shaft Fixed in the bottom cover to keep the motor axially stable. A good motor will use bearings to hold it in place to avoid wear and tear over long periods of time. Wind blade Some motors will install a plastic wind blade at the end of the iron core, which can drive the airflow to help dissipate heat when rotating,it is helpful for the motor that runs for a long time.

If your selling anything Airsoft related & I contact you, feel free to tell me to FUCK RIGHT OFF🤬, I've got too much stuff already, literally a ton or more, don't feed my addiction 😬

New kit for a very old and tired stock TM Sig 226 , over 10yrs old , probably closer to 15 and was my back up & winter use 226 back in the day . About 6months ago I fitted the threaded barrel and it’s bugged me ever since … so now time for a full face lift .

Tupperware party 😛

My MWS from todays game.

Well what does that make a nerf gun, or for that matter an elastic band gun? Or even, if we want to be pedantic, a bubble gun? Its "shooting" bubbles after all.