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To be honest, the seller needs as much scrutiny as the rif itself, easily done when shopping on forums. Look at how long a member, kind of feedback, post count & maybe have a look at the quality of his posts, if he's spamming/poor attitude/thick as shit, I'd be reluctant to consider buying something with complicated moving parts etc. Also, regarding the rifs, if the seller is the first owner - IT'S SECOND HAND if its like new- IT'S SECOND HAND if it's only been skirmished once - IT'S SECOND HAND Don't get sucked in to any of the bs, once a rif leaves a shop for the first time it's second hand, open to abuse or excessive use, or just natural wear & tear that will at some point lead to failure. & again, irrespective of alleged god like condition proclaimed by sellers, NO WARRANTIES APPLICABLE, no matter how much your paying over the odds, YEAH I'M LOOKING AT YOU @avenger63😜. As for what to actually buy, find what you like the look of, look to see if it's been reviewed on here, if not make a thread asking about it, in no time at all you'll be inundated with responses👍

And decent pic with the bayonet fitted . Father in laws old bayonet. They don't like it up 'em !

Lots of good tips out there already. The thing i'd say is to assume the worst internally and buy based on externals. Many pews can look and even shoot somewhat decently but have some serious gremlins under the hood that even an honest seller might not know about if they arent the type to work on their own pews. This is especially the case for anything with "upgrades". Dont beleive any claims like "shoots like a laser" etc, not because the seller is necessarily stating a false beleif, but how do you know their definition/expectations of a good shooter matches your own? I'm not saying that every secondhand pew is a wreck, indeed i have bought some fantastic pews from these forums, but if you're prepared for the worst (eg budgeting for a proper tech overhaul, or parts if you like tinkering yourself) then anything better will be a bonus. As has been mentioned above use goods+services when paying, an honest seller shouldnt have any issues with this, if they kick up insisting on freinds+family or bank transfer then walk away, there's always another pew.

Also to add to the posts above, watch out for the scammers You may recieve a message if you post a wanted ad saying something like "my friend is selling ********, email them here.................. As above also never use paypal friends and family or bank transfer unless you know the person you're buying from. I've had a couple off people try the above scam but the gun they tried to sell me was one from the forum that I had already brought 😂

That's pretty much it in those two posts, but most specifically the seller part. If they have no feedback it's a risk, they may be on the level, they may not, no way to know. If you're feeling cautious ask for a video of the item, particularly with RIFs, ask to see a video of the seller shooting it. It's a reasonable request where triple figure £is involved. If they balk at providing such then probably best to walk away from the sale.

All very sage. If possible, buy in person after trying. No swaps, no PayPal Friends and Family. Be aware that while you're legally OK to buy or try and buy a RIF without a defence, the sort of person that you'll want to buy from is also the sort of person who might ask to see some form of defence for selling it to you. You'll often find folk at your local site with stuff to sell, which ticks most of the boxes above (in person, try-before-buy, and they know what you'll be using it for). One of the most annoying things about Facebook is that it cracks down on any hint of "want 2 buy" remotely related to toy guns, so you may have to actually ask around on site.

Make sure that it's what you want to buy. Sounds obvious, but selling on an unused rif is a PITA. Have you tried an example of what you're buying? Do you need it for a particular style of gameplay or loadout? If it's a first rif, factor in ease of tinkering if you are by nature a tinkerer. M4 platform is pretty easy, especially with a QD spring. You'll never want for mags etc either with a common platform (hopefully).

What does it mean if it says uncompleted then oh wize won 🤔 😉

Exactly that, Completed, finished, nothing to see here, prob be easier if it just said "SOLD", but then the pedants would be like "but I didn't sell it, I swapped it" 🤣

As others have said do your research on the seller and ALWAYS ask for a clip of it working , you can get a lot from just a few secs of video of seeing and hearing it running . Plus if you don't know the character of the seller try and stick with adverts that have loads of pictures of the gun or the seller is willing to supply more pics(there are a few guys in the sport that I’d buy a gun from with out even seeing any pics of it as I know their trustworthy , but not many😉)but if there’s just one pic of the gun in a box and they won’t send any more walk away . Unfortunately though in the end even with ALL the precautions you can think off there’s still a chance you can get a lemon hasn’t stopped me buying , just the nature of the beast when shopping 2nd hand .👍

It does come with the original box...

Pedants built the internet! Well, the pedantic parts of it, anyway.

What bear is the most condescending? A Pan-duh

Real steel stock cap fitted to the 303. Brass would be nice , but think this unissued steel one is an improvement on the bling S&T one.

Finished painting new build so slapped the parts together for a picture. Need a new grip that fits, shorter outer barrel, and to put more grip tape on the recessed parts of the stock, and probably a grey/silver titan trigger. Any suggestions for grips that might look good on it? with battery extension:

Well ! In that case ,

Says he’s “Looking for £350” , well I’m looking for the will to live , wonder who’ll find what their looking for 1st ?🤔

Whenever my Uncle Bob gets angry, he plays his bongos in the loft until he calms down. It's all a little drum attic if you ask me.

Intentionally removing a tooth or two from the sector gear is common practice. The tooth snapping on its own means the sector gear is made of molten cheese and makes me wonder how shit that gear is and how long until it dies, killing half the internals in the process....

🎵Love is in the air🎵😍😍. 😉 Regards

I've two DE's and look after a third (my sons), all three have been fully disassembled multiple times to the level of the gearbox having been in pieces (M904E, M906C and an M908A). Really it's not a MOSFET or an ETU, it's a "controller" like a GATE Titan or Perun Hybrid with optical sensors, however it's a much cheaper "knock off" so you've no pre-cocking and active-braking etc. (also the "battery protection" isn't as sophisticated as say the GATE Titan). Having said all that though, for what can be a £160 rifle depending upon the model, they're bloody amazing (trigger response and rate of fire). Regarding which material is "stronger" it's finely balanced, but for the best long term strength I'd have to say the polymer. The metal bodies on the M900's are not all that thick, and I'm as certain as I can be that they're of a cheap alloy to keep costs low (it was so easy using just a manual hand drill to modify my M908A to create a hole in the lower receiver to fit a nut and bolt to lock it to semi-only for a DMR), but the polymer is very rigid and can take a good hard knock.

Have you heard the good news, friend? The M90XY range all look to have the same internals, i.e. gearbox, fire control system, rotary hop and quick change spring. The differences are in the stock, the barrel length, and the construction materials, with alloy receivers or handguards adding more cost and a bit more weight. That won't effect the performance one whit - the BB really doesn't know or care, absent some arguments about barrel stabilisation that are more of a concern for long barrelled DMR builds. For a UK spec 1.1J AEG, barrel length isn't that important, and anything over 6" is just bragging. Decent polymer can be tougher than ropey Chinesium pot metal, so don't let that put you off either. Given the parlous stock situation at the moment, it's really a question of finding the one that'll give you the hardest PP when shooting a BB, that's in budget and in stock.

Your observations of reality have no bearing on our predictions of inevitable doom. It's airsoft, it's a miracle when anything works at all. I wouldn't worry about it until something (else) breaks.

Would you like to buy a Cyma CM.028 for the low low price of only £350? Well now's your chance!

IT'S NOT A DEFENCE, IT'S A LICEN- Oh, no, wait, as you were. Ahoy and welcome. Sounds like you'll get on fine, and you've already found that airsofters are a welcoming lot. There's no right or wrong way to get into it, just whatever works for you. Renting is perfectly sensible, and lets you find out if you actually enjoy the process of playing. Some people love the toys, but hate being shot, while others run around with a springer pistol moaning and shuddering in pleasure. Blag a go on a variety of toys to see what you prefer, and if you crack and decide that you really don't want to wait 8 weeks, well, paint comes off.

Apparently the sisters at the local convent here in Waterlooville are furious. It seems that their central heating is on the fritz and it is very very warm there. What you might call hot,cross nuns. 🤭

@Mr. No_Face sums it up well there. They are 2 completely different platforms and GBB definitely requires more care and attention. But don't be put off by the umpteen recommendations of not going GBB first if that's what you decide. Just be aware it's a much steeper initial learning curve.

No AngryGun or Nuprol parts in MWS's please 😖

Honestly they are not as bad as people make out. The main thing is they do need maintaining after almost every game where as an AEG rarely needs much doing. Now if your like me and enjoy tinkering etc this is more of a positive over a negative. I love disassembling it and giving it a once over. And it only really takes 20 mins to remove the bolt wipe off and clean it, the receiver and the barrel and regrease it all ready for next time. Reliability wise only issue I had was I skipped the maintenance and the bolt ran dry by the end of the day. But just carry a tub of grease and this isn't an issue of stopping your game day. I like the noise of it cycling, the fact it locks back on empty and the low round count and having to reload etc.. really adds to the immersion for me. Some people like to just point and shoot so for them an AEG is better. But like I say know what you want from the sport and satisfy your needs. That's why there is such variety to what you can get. You will get maximum enjoyment out of it then.

both WE GBB

The function of it is to fit to a completely different rifle , so just return the one you have and buy the correct one

PSG1 is an AEG 🙃

Just got this today, TM gold match, got it it stock, replaced barrell and slide, got loads 9f work to do on it 😁

Ghost Recon Breakpoint vs Real Life Loadout Not a 100% replication, but as close as I can get within the confines of the in game modding options and without dropping a shit-ton on new gear.

I just jizzed in my pants

Yes the blue spiritus hat made me a prime target that day 😂

It's also quite hideous. Feels like another 'flag of the week' cash in tbh.

That feeling when you flick through the AI mag, see a site you like then find out it’s a bit of a drive 😂😂😂🤦‍♂️

Grab and go.

So I finally fitted my TM AKM’s wood kit 😎 and for comparison a stock tm akm

Well, that is silly of me, of course it is. Now, what begs the question is, why that flat side on the barrel? Do I need a special part to be attached there? Because that is what is causing so many problems in my AEG. WHat is the function of the flat side?

Yes but when I bought it, the advert said for AEG and PSG-1