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I mean that stock is better than badly "upgraded". I keep quoting that because it's what you'll see claimed a lot in adverts, but it doesn't really mean much other than that the owner has spent more money (and might think they can recoup it). Personally I wouldn't touch a TM recoil because they shoot weak as stock and don't seem to enjoy having even spring changes. However, they have lots of happy owners, and presumably they aren't all kidding themselves, so please don't pay too much attention to my aversion. I think this is the third time it's been said, but that's a risible fantasy claim. There is no magic that can make a 1.1J airsoft gun shoot to 90m, let alone do so effectively, even with heavy BBs and perfect hop. Honestly, airsoft physics is real physics. Maximum range is limited by muzzle energy, and 90m needs 2J+. Effective range will be somewhere less than that, down to getting your hop spot on, and consistency. A lot of that is luck in what you actually get - Ex-Workmate Eddy's basic and completely stock G&G CM16, for example, is an absolute peach of an example: the shimming sounds spot on, he set the (basic dial) hop about three years ago and it's not budged a micron since, and it still shoots more consistently than any of my guns, stock or upgraded. 280fps with a 0.25g BB. See http://www.coderedairsoftpark.com/pages/park-rules-and-hours/fps-calculator.php - that's about 0.91J, which would be about 310-315fps on a 0.2g, although you generally get some energy variance on different masses of BB. I'd say that's sufficient for woodland, although I'm a bit of a whore for chasing site limits.

I was the guy who designed them. I gave the files to someone on the facebook L119 group as I can't be arsed printing them out loads of times. If you have access to a resin printer let me know and I'll send the bumps for each side, the Colt logo for the left side of the receiver and the fake selector switch for the right hand side.

The owner replied to my google review and among other things, said I "lost a piece of their kit". LOL

Yes, it does seem that mishandling is the main cause, but when that could be as simple as catching a lead in the wrong place when you're changing battery in a hurry between games, that's something we can all imagine doing isn't it? That's the (slightly) scary bit for me.

Here’s mine

Im excited to have this together and my Mrs just looks worried when I try to show her - more than understanding how awesome I think it is lol. (Which is fair enough) It’s was a TM Sopmod, I made it into a CQBR and now (my impression) of an L119A2 Angry Gun rail and flash hider PTS grip MK18 TM Stock RS Magpul Angle grip Angry gun charging handle catch E6 M110 spring Prom Piston Prom Piston head E6 recoil spring Prom 6.03 inner Prom Purple Rubber Prom Flat nub Action Army high torque Motor ACOG upgraded with Gucci bits from a very helpful member on AF U.K. 🇬🇧 I don’t have the CC lower, I honestly just can’t face getting the gearbox out again, I had to do it about 3 times because I had to learn as I went. when something explodes and I need to replace the gears or whatever then I’ll burn some more cash doing that last bit, but for now just want to enjoy using it. I get zero single shot lockup, this was either the new motor or Titan battery, did both at once after lots of single shot lockup, so it was one of those or a combination. I did not need the MOSFET. Not looking for anything other than just showing off because I’m very very happy and can’t wait to use it. yes, it is a lot of mags. No I cannot ever use them all

Tiger111hk. It will only fit the PPS Bizon or E&L AK though. It's a 5mm pin. I already have a top folder on my PPS Bizon. Just wanted a spare.

"It fails to cycle in exactly the same way that a real gun would fail to cycle!"

Stop being so sensible and conservative. You should definitely spaff all your money on a das or a systema ptw 2021.

Yup totally agree , hence most of my LiPo’s that have the potential to be problematic getting out of what ever I’ve stuck them in have an attached loop of nylon filament(the thread from the core of paracord)around them so if I do need to give it a ‘tug’ to get it out I don’t need to fanny around with any of the wires just pull on the loop and out it pops .👍

Legend Nick, thanks.

I've been thrashing around the internetz trying to do exactly the same thing. I've got some osprey sa80 pouches which I like, good in the they can hold both my m4 and AK-47 mags securely. But as you say they're not the fastest. So I bought a plastic shell fast mag pouch. Unfortunately it wasn't Molle do I had to paracord it to my battle harness, flopping around a little. However it did prove that plastic is the way to go. Eventually I found these.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tactical-Mag-Holster-Molle-Mag-Clip-5-56-Fast-Magazine-Pouch-Strike-System-/313209884981?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 I've only ordered them last night but these are cheap at £10 for two holders, and they were available in green as I wanted. The only problem is they might not arrive until the end of the month

The chap on the L119 owners club on facebook is Bruno Carvalho . Easiest option would be to drop him a PM . Forget how much the set I got cost . They arrived pretty quickly as I recall. He also does a few other 119 bits.

What he said. I usually run a couple of HSGI's on the belt and top up from chest rig. The emdom MM dump pouch has always worked way better for me than the standard flappy ones. If you really don't want to go down that route then HSGI's do still meet the original objective of being easy enough to put mags back into, but it's an expensive way to do things and will take up a lot more real estate.

8 single speed pouches is an odd setup. I'd advocate buying 2 or 3 good quality pouches with fast access, then mount them in the easiest to reach places on your kit and stock them up from any simpler/slower/flapped/shingle pouches you have when time permits. Magazine/ammunition management is an important skill for real guys doing real shit and this is how they do things and you're not going to be in that intense of a fight in airsoft you don't have time to shuffle a couple of mags around. I've done this for all my loadouts for pushing a decade, works great, reloads are always on point. Fuck Nuprol in general irrespective of whether any given product happens to be a rare example of something in their product line that's not turd.

The AAs aren't amazing. A mate shitnthe compensator off his 501 across the cqb arena as it's held on by a crap o ring. Everyone's go to response is TM plastic slides will crack, we're in the UK, drop a 120 recoil spring on a capa and you'll be fine. The TM really is that good.

Hi, nice work! Thanks for the offer of support but no I don’t have anything that technical, I feel this thread has gone into deep waters that I can’t survive in! im definitely more of a casual enthusiast. If there was a guy happily knocking them out and making a few quid for his trouble then I’d buy some so I had the option one day. I don’t have the kit to do it myself and I don’t need or want anyone going to any trouble. Thanks for getting in touch with the offer though!

Wow Nick, that’s a work of art you’ve got going on there! Bravo. We are at very different levels when it comes to this stuff! I definitely understand why you’d consider mine more of an impression than a build lol. Do you have a link or a point of contact for the 3D printed bits for the upper or are you doing it yourself?

Remember that fps is not important, it's all about joules and if the weight is hoppable. Keep the gun stock for a month I would say when you want to make changes chuck in a ML Yellow and keep the stock barrel as you shouldn't need to trim the lip. After a while upgrade the barrel to a stainless steel one - ZCI are very good for the price however you will most likely need to trip the lip. To do this use a disposable razor, put it on a spare barrel and just take a tiny bit off each time. Make sure to do the drop test in the hop up frequently when shaving the material so you stop just as it let's the bb drop down into the hopup without getting caught.

You don't need to spend more than the base price. I'm going against my own principles here, as I consider stock TMs to be piss-weak at about 0.72J ("280fps") and wouldn't be satisfied with that. But plenty of owners have convinced themselves that's they're sufficient for woodland. And it is true that shot-to-shot consistency is critical for effective range. However, I'll re-iterate the (quite serious) point of that video I posted earlier, and its part 2, that a cheap CYMA, cleaned and fed 0.28g BBs, will shoot pretty much as well any other airsoft gun, and a lot better than some that cost many times more, "upgraded" or otherwise. Everything beyond that is down to how it makes you feel based on its construction and features, and that's highly subjective. If you need recoil and bolt lock, you need them, but you're sharply limiting your choice. On where to buy and how much to pay, as you've found, stocking (and re-stocking) is dire in the UK at the moment. I wouldn't trust any promises about future availability, and I certainly wouldn't put a penny down in advance. Right now, I'd only buy new from stock, and at the first hint of trouble from a retailer, I'd fire in with a chargeback. That also means that used prices are all over the place. Typically it has been 2/3rd of new, with "upgrades" and extras generally adding little extra value. But when it's a used gun or nothing, that puts more power in the hands of sellers. Buying used is fraught with hazards. "Upgrades" might mean "meddled with it, wrecked it, gave up". And there are some rogue sellers out there flipping boneyard junk, or outright scamming. Approach with considerable caution and if at all possible buy face to face and after trying it out. I'm aware this is all coming across as a bit negative, but I'd hate to see you get taken for a ride on your first purchase. What I'd actually stress is that you can have a great day with just about anything that shoots BBs vaguely downrange, as long as it does so reliably, so I'd urge not over-thinking it, or trying to get the perfect forever-gun first time out.

The bat safe boxes are really good. I use one for charging larger batteries indoors, rc and fpv along with airsoft means all shapes and sizes of lipos. Having seen larger packs go up it makes sense.

The 7mm mats sound ideal. Plenty spare and not too thick so easy to mould into shape. Also still able to feel hits. As I said nothing too elaborate. Have sketched a basic torso design that stops just below the ribcage to allow for movement. Considering some form of scrote protector that hangs over the front for some basic protection against hits to the baws (not happened yet and want to keep it that way...) Shoulder protection attached and basic forearm and leg pieces. Then paint it all in OD to match the rest of my loadout. Might add a couple of decals to finish off. Doing my research before hitting Amazon, Ebay or B&Q in the coming days.

Yarp, the feeding is problematical. Mine would try to feed a whole shell full of BBs into the barrels, that sounds similar to what you're seeing. You'll hear folk giving the iPhone excuse - "ur holdang it rong!!!" - but that's victimblaming. When I finally got it all apart (being too dumb and stubborn to send it back) I couldn't see what the problem was, so I just gave everything a good wiggle and silicone lube and put it back together, and it's been fine since (so I wasn't donging it wrang). They're really not intended to be stripped down though, there are dozens of tiny screws going into cheap plastic, so I'd agree with just returning it.

Used guide is two thirds of retail, ish. some things hold more value than others and condition plays a significant part. The tech who mentioned not chasing fps is on the right track. I've seen stock TMs perform better than cheaper rifs with all but the kitchen sink thrown at them. With the TM you know all the parts go together well and you should be able to lift a .28g bb consistently, though you time to target will be a little longer, although that matters less at closer ranges. the higher fps does mean faster but it doesn't mean control. in terms of what to go for I'd suggest you try and get hands on with rifs you fancy and go from there. If you like the feel TM recoil and function then rails, grips, stocks etc can be changed without performance changes.

Depends on what side of the trigger your on 😏

Thanks, it's a bit of a labour of love ! Taken plenty of time to get to that stage, I started from a blank reciever for mine and built from scratch. Yours is getting there, when you can , put some time into it and it'll soon be spot on. Not had any issues with the mag catch at all on the A2 on mine I did the upper mods with miliput and lots of careful sculpting , for the GBBR I'm doing at he moment we have a set of the 3d printed parts to try, it'll be interesting to compare. I didnt find doing it particularly problematic although years of model building may have helped. Had the machining done by LCs engineering. This is a picture they sent of the machined and engraved parts for the A2 GBBR showing the work done. I've pretty much only run my GBBR A1 this year ! take an AEG along on game day and it stays in the bag Lol. The gas guns are very imersive and loads of fun. My A1 is based on a WE M4 and uses quite a few real steel parts. The A2 is getting genuine stock, pistol grip, fore grip buffer tube and mag catch. I tend to run 5 single mags and one double mag for a game and re fill with BBs from a speed loader, get about 2.5 BB loads from a gas fill. Mine runs happily on red gas pretty much all year, certainly in temperatures as low as I'm prepared to go out in ! My gas A1, it's got a more accurate ACOG on it now and the sure fire flash hider as I often run it with the can on for the look of it. Buffer nut is incorrect in that picture but now has a proper one on it . Would love to get a genuine British SF spec KAC rail for it, but they are a bit 'hen's teeth' and hellish expensive when they come up.

Good face pro is the only thing entirely necessary to get involved in an airsoft game. Well done on looking past the pile of shiny bullshit all stores constantly push on the player base and focusing on what matters (by far) the most. If you maintain the same mindset as you continue on in the hobby you'll find you spend almost no down time in the safe zone or not going to games you wanted to attend because your guns and/or gear have failed you; a problem endemic to all sorts of players both new and seasoned on many occasions.

I used 7mm rolls, commonly sold as "anti-fatigue" mats. For example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333562735362 7mm doesn't sound like much but it's robust enough and easy to cut and shape with a heat gun, and is ideal for what I've been doing with it. I've got some square panels as well, maybe 10-12mm thick, which would be fine if you wanted to make big, solid, structural shapes, but I've not needed to use them.

Don’t listen to them! I think it’s very lovely 😁

Spare PPS Bizon Top Folding stock. PPS Bizon Flash hider Core PN-2 Charging handle cover

Just arrived yesterday, a clone Surefire dual switch from Ali Express Really good quality plastics, about a tenner posted and arrived in just over 2 weeks from HK. Tidys up my hand guard loads

Cheers, it's woodland with some sort-of cqb 'villages' where we change to single shot. Most of the longer range stuff feels like 20-30, occasionally 40m, but at partial targets - sometimes through a bit of light brush - so accuracy and momentum the key things there! I've had a dig around in my kit box, I found a bag of 0.30s in there I thought I'd already used. And a bag of leftovers which could be anything from 0.20s to 0.28s. Maybe even a pick'n'mix of all 3 weights. Anyway, I'll see if I can lift the 0.30s in the garden.. should be an interesting test! edit: Yes, it'll over-hop .30s. That's the stock rubber that's had probably a hundred rounds through it, at room temperature, at 20m range. Geoff's .30g Bio Natural Precision BB's. Operated by a non-expert user Now obviously I may have so much hop wound on at this point that the fps might be unusably low, and I definitely saw some variability in the trajectories (though that's perhaps down to the new hop rubber, and the newness of the gun as a whole, and me only firing a couple of shots at each setting, with a battery that probably needs a recharge) but it's definitely lifting them successfully. I'll probably order a big bag of 0.28s just to play it a little safe, but when I'm at the site next I'll try to get a chrono reading with the 0.30s Absolutely loving the look and feel of this, and the binary trigger... lurrrrrrvly!

Lemon ratio for cyma shorties is quite high. Send it back

Well, they do now. I didn't see a resolution to that case one way or the other, I'd assume their insurers settled at the courtroom door. And reminding people to fire until clear? Barrel socks will come to every site eventually, after the dry-firing fun and games turn into someone losing an eye. I've taken to wearing basic ballistic glasses in "safe" zones now too. No chrono, even after being on the sharp end of a negligence suit, is astonishing. While I'm the first to point out that pre-game chrono is largely just theatre, not doing any sort of chronoing at all is appalling, and I would have no doubt that some regulars will be rocking Section 5s or billion-Joule snipers. And I'm the last to suggest escalating situations, but I think that might result in a roundhouse swing with whatever RIF I had to hand. Did you bother even bringing it up with the site?

I'll wear that badge with pride ☺️

Cheers guys - but actually MPA airsoft sell pre-cut poly discs from 25mm up, as lens protectors. I had identified them as the best source, but the p&p was a bit much for something that could go in a letter envelope. So I pooh-poohed it. "Never pooh-pooh a pooh-pooh". Useful advice, I'm sure you'll agree. Anyway, turns out Nunfa1 is calling in there today and has offered to pick up a couple for me and post them on. Top chap!

My "parts bin" MWS monstrosity. the kick on this thing with duster gas is like shooting real steel. definitely harder than my 22lr!

For me, the username says it all 😏

The family that sprays together stays together. Like much of airsoft, it's an "impression kit", just from the future rather than the past.

Pretty good Hallowe'en event at Biohazard, equipping a friend-of-a-friend with loaner gear. He wasn't expecting to be loaded with with M4 and pistol (both with spitfire tracers), and grenades. He had a blast, got right into it and was pushing like a proper speedy boi - sometimes even still with BBs in the mag. Biohazard have the top floor open now, which really increased the length of a whole-site fallback game, and it's got a fair bit of potential for further development, kudos to them for that. We had the usual barely audible briefs in the echoing safe zone (bad), mostly very fair and good natured play (good), and laissez-faire marshalling (good or bad, depending on what you were there to do). Some rental blind firing and trigger spamming was in evidence, and I Had Words with a Sergeant McShouty after an earful too much following a zinger in the face. All hugs and back slaps before the safe zone though. Much amusement from a wee lad who was about 4 foot high and ran around the whole day with a pistol and backhand knife, coming around corners fast, low and stabbing. The costume competition was obviously a fix, being won by shop bought efforts rather than my hand crafted pretend space soldier rig. Granted it was hilarious being shot by knights, bananas, and a squad of Telly-Tubbies, and I don't grudge the winner in his inflatable T-Rex costume, firstly for even getting into the play area, but then for actually playing pretty well - you wouldn't think an 8 foot dinosaur could be sneaky, but he actually managed some great ambushes. Clearly a natural predator.

This video on it is very interesting, particularly the amp draw and energy efficiency parts. Spoliers, 5800 shots out of an 1000mah battery on the Warhead, vs 1000 on a Lonex A1...

I picked this up thinking of all the cons of an Eotech clone (Seeing your own reflection when light is behind you in a dark area, horrible parallax etc) and was pleasantly surprised when this sight had none of those downsides! The XTO seems to have little to no parallax and it has a mirrored finish on the front glass, but you don't see your reflection if you're in a dark area and have a light source behind you. I paired this up with Vector Optics' x5 Flip-to-side Magnifier and have encountered no reticle ghosting, nor any distorted image when looking through the lens, it's crystal clear. The buttons function as normal, with pressing the up and down buttons simultaneously turning off the optic, pressing the up button turning it on, up and down changes the brightness of the reticle, and the NV button turning the reticle from red to green and vice versa. The optic also has working elevation and windage controls on the right side of the metal outer shell. It also uses a CR123A battery, the same as the real steel. I'd been looking for a good, or even usable Eotech clone for quite a while, and I never saw anyone reviewing this sight on the website, the only 2 video reviews being on YouTube. Here's some footage of the parallax from one of the reviews, in case you're wondering. Here's a link to the XTO on Patrol Base and here's a link to Vector Optics' 5x Flip-To-Side Magnifier, again, on Patrol Base. I highly recommend this holo sight and magnifier pairing! Here's a picture of my VFC HK416A5 with both the XTO and Magnifier installed:

Quick update. So turns out there were a couple of bbs stuck inside the hop but it took a lot of fiddling to get them out as I’d already tried clearing the barrels. One of the bbs that came out was quite chewed up, so I don’t know what caused that! Then on the next fire test (only loaded 3 bbs in the mag) same thing happened, so pretty sure it’s a dud gun. Contacting Bullseye to get it resolved.

That's certainly one interpretation.