Leaderboard

Everyone is different but I prefer Mechanix gloves! Others may say Oakleys but I like my Mechanix ones.

My custom K98 Spring conversion I was working on for a while before admitting defeat. Built from a clone VSR and a donor D-boys K98 with wood stock and metal parts. Looks the business, all the metalwork was chemically blued and it really looked great compared to the matt black of the D-boys. Have had positive comments on the look of the rifle from some people who really know their stuff with regards to ww2 weapons. Sadly away to a new owner now but hopefully he's managed to get it working reliably. Next up my M1 Garand AEG. A custom wood stock and metal parts kit on an M14 body, this thing is hefty! Originally that orange lacquer colour most wood kits are but I stripped it down and refinished it with a nice walnut stain and a lot of coats of boiled linseed oil. Fed from small 30rd shotgun mags, they're almost impossible to get a hold of but I managed to get 25 in a trade. :-) Fun for open days as when people see a wood stock rifle they think it'll be a single shot sniper and get surprised when I can pop in an M14 hi-cap and slam it on full auto with no MED as its at 350fps. Lol Currently under a full overhaul on this as it was drifting the shots to one side.

Mechanix all the way, tough as old boots and go to big sizes. Bloody good selection on protection and styles.

TM High Cycle Mp5k.

Wise choice not being a sniper trust me I'd look at G&G over ICS as G&G are 99% TM compatible whereas some ICS parts are more bespoke (inside AND outside). If you're really set on ICS don't get the folding stock, get a crane or fixed stock for battery space in the back. I would definitely consider the previously mentioned G&G Raiders (short or long idk where you play) or if you want to splash out perhaps look at their top tech range.

I have mechanix and some oakley assault gloves, both tend to stay in my kitbag at home. Gloves are nice when crawling through a brush, but just get in the way when shooting IMO. Yes finger hits are pains full, but it's not that bad, all things considered.

alas majority of stuff is just knocked out to keep costs down to remain competitive... even if fet's fail - the donkey work of wiring in has been done already to replace fet with better bells n whistles one if needed The other thing I'd like to see is like a slightly better build in most guns Can't be THAT hard, to correct AoE, better head & nozzle ffs so gun performs and functions that bit better Not talking about a mega time consuming custom bespoke build where hours are taken to check/assemble But surely - stop calling me Shirley Surely - they could add in a o-ring nozzle, better piston o-ring & better head with AoE nearly done or corrected a bit better than stock just using a few better parts probably only a few dollars each part would save the owner having to get it done at some point yes a little more cost - but a better performing gun would sell itself even if it cost say $10 to $15 more until then they will just be knocking out the same old same old stuff that may need finishing off a little Echo1 & Krytac might be using a little more care - but wtf don't the main companies do this anyway ?

Given the rate at which G&Gs sell, I hope that such a large amount of production of stock guns with MOSFETs combined with so many people using them might actually start to finally make a change in the rest of the AEG manufacturing world. We're long overdue for the likes of G&P, ICS and VFC to be including FETs in all their electric guns, but as per usual it takes about a decade for even small changes to happen. Maybe once a large portion of the market gets accustomed to the much improved trigger response and the other advantages these new G&Gs have, the manufacturers who don't include a FET will have to up their games to carry on making sales. Might well not happen but fingers crossed.

All the mechanix love in this thread, I find them to be incredibly uncomfortable. 5.11 Tactical Scene One gloves for me

I use mechanix gloves as well. Got two pairs, the Multicam ones for the winter and a set of fingerless I wear in the summer that make it a bit easier to handle the weapon (but I do get stung by nettles on the ends of the fingers a lot, and one broken finger from a BB hit).

I had a similar difficulty with an R hop patch. I spent a day on a site with some sandpaper/dremel/tools just further tweaking the patch until I got it shooting straight with 0.28g BBs. I never bothered to get the 0.25g BBs working, I can't see any intrusion in the barrel at all its flush but they still just overhop and I think its from just the patch itself on the top without it being pushed down. Even though 0.28g BBs are nice and straight I find 0.30g BBs are better accuracy and range so that is what I now use. It so vastly improves the amount of hop you can apply that it does indeed increase the weight your gun can effectively hop, but as a result it also could and in my case did mean 0.25g was impossible to use anymore.

I am on phone yes - wow double whammy - good job I had an early night!

Not used hicaps in a while but the G&G ones were always rock solid. Managed the snap the spring in one but only after I dropped it in mud and then over-wound it when it jammed, simply coiled the spring round a bit more and it was good to go again.

Wouldn't even bother - just look through the pages. Most people who claim their anything is a DMR have just slapped a £30 scope on a stock AEG and massively overvalue them. Internal wise, you probably are looking for a high torque motor to be one of the key components, so you could search for that.

I'll also add that my Original Mechanix gloves were a fantastic piece of kit when I was in Syria, they never smelt, nor did they rip at all. Breathable to the absolute max! I even let a few Kurds try them on and they loved them!

RAP4 Fingerless Armoured Paintball Gloves Cost me £4 and I've had them close to two years with some wear but still protect my hands as well as the day I bought them.

They have CNC slide ones and ones that aren't, then there's the first run that was terrible and - as you say - different trades depending on where you are geographically; their consistency ended up a real mess, but some of the good ones are damn near perfect like you say. Especially where the front of the slide meets the frame - really well done job. Took me a bunch of shimming to get it right on my TM. Unfortunately it seems that in the UK most of them are the ones with the terrible Stark trades and the slides don't look like they fit all that well.

I use mechanix gloves, and the fit is fantastic. Not having bought a lot of gloves before, i actually found out how to measure for them on google and it worked a treat

I have some cheepo £4 fingerless gloves with knuckles... had them for over a year theyre great. IMO you dont need these fancy pants gucci operator MLG gloves

While there are a lot of milsimmers who like the long continuous games of 24 - 48 or even 72 hours sometimes, we accept that not everybody wants a game that long or intense. That is why we offer two continuous 8 hour games with a decent nights sleep in between. Theres nothing wrong with either; its just customer choice. The eight hours is where the Okto name comes from. Our new Technical with a .50 cal AEG

Irritatingly large internal seams on the Fast fit ones which over prolonged periods of use, cause blisters in annoying places (Finger tips and between fingers). Also incredibly bulky, so completely useless if you have a narrow trigger guard, unlike the 5.11's which have a narrow end on each glove for the trigger finger.

not sure but they do partly strip the rails/gun etc to give it a coating but they know their G&G stuff so though it don't get sprayed in situ reckon it won't take too long before its shipped - if they already got a gun sprayed already (not many retailers would do this spraying a RIF to IFwithout order first but on stuff like Raider or popular models they "might" paint a few at a time)

New mag for my 4.3 Hi-CAPA so I can try fixing its leaky one and not cry if I balls it up.

What "can" sometimes happen is that you store the gun with it pre-cocked by accident over time the spring will lose tension a considerable bit and can drop to under 300 if left like this for a while 2 things to do on finishing for day when you return home to store gun (or just leave it in bag - store gun is a term loosely used but mine are always wrapped in silk blankets) anyway - empty mags as if stored with spring wound hi caps or mid-caps they can lose tension and efficiency often with hi-caps you gradually find you no longer get 20-30 or so shots on a full winding and this drops the crappy half a dozen also fire gun on semi twice they say to help ensure gun/spring/gears are parked correctly with min tension what you are trying to do is leave it pre-cocked/wound for a little while to deliberately lose a smidge of tension and no you wouldn't lose much if any real tension by a game or two the cm.515 was still 348/349 and I did just adjust a smidge more hop to get her under (ain't gonna clean barrel just yet either or I could be back over the limit, and forget a tbb in there for a while) Lipo battery I'd leave it partly charged and charge it night before game but don't listen to me too much about lipo's note this was dodgy looking lipo - crapped myself as it sparked hissed dropping it in hallway then bursting into flames kicked it out the front door friday night but scorched the carpet - missus not happy but on flip side now got the go ahead to buy a ton of new lipo's but take it from me - if they look a bit dodgy or more just a little puffy replace them this was a cheapo brand x one and not a proper decent make like Zippy, Turnigy, Vapex, WE etc.... f*ck me all smoke alarms going off and stink - maybe make a claim on insurance or she will get new hall carpet could of been a LOT LOT worse - so yeah a little care IS needed in handling/storing/charging lipo's (another lesson learnt - but this was a moody battery btw so don't all rush out and build asbestos charging rooms - just common sense)

I have huge hands and I have Mechanix mpact gloves. Very comfortable, good fit especially on my thumb (big hands but fairly short fingers). I also have some helikon ones that are nice but not quite such a good fit. Something to bear in mind though - the protection on tactical style gloves is designed to help stop you skinning your knuckles on walls and such and don't actually provide much impact resistance against bb hits. If that's what you need I would suggest you look at armoured paintball gloves.

I usually take a couple pairs of Mechanix Original gloves with me.. they are probably the best fitting gloves also! Not too bulky, nice and light... super breathable too!

I used the r hop fitting kit and it's all perfect, I think the r hop is just very effective !

not 100% certain but sure you can toggle 3 or 1 shot mode I know it must be very anti-geezer-ish but maybe it might be worth a look in the man, manu, - damn it is so hard to say it M A N U A L - manual - done it, woohoo that is always a tricky one to say let alone look at & use and yeah - the new receivers and the new craney stock looks damn nice

Mechanix. Love the vent ones because they're just thick enough to stop BBs hurting too much, but thin enough that they're not in the way. The range is brilliant though, and the originals are - as Raggedy says - tough as old boots. Not sure if Mechanix do talking gloves yet, however. The M-Pact ones are bulky. If you have problems with getting hit in the hands all the time (and it really hurting) then they're a good option, but otherwise I'd get something slightly more slimline.

With .25s you can get a flat trajectory from R-Hopping - it's possible you've installed the patch too low and it's making too much contact. R-Hopping is all about minor adjustment until it's just right so this is to be expected. If you have the easy install kit from HSA then take the barrel out, press it against the patch and see how much it protrudes into the barrel - that's how much hop you're getting with it completely turned off. You should be able to drop a BB down the barrel or by gently blowing on it - the patch should generally not protrude into the barrel at all on a standard bore width - so between 6.01 and 6.08 (wide bores are a slightly different story). If neither of these things gets the BB past the patch then it's seated too low. If you don't have the install kit then simply try using something flat (bit of wood or a hardback book) and press it against the patch to see how much it goes down into the barrel. Obviously don't push it too far in like the nub in your hop would - you're just trying to see what the patch looks like in the hop 'off' state. Basically there are two solutions, and because of window sizes I can't be sure for yours, but the HSA patches sometimes don't have enough material and you need to build up the edges of your hop window with RTV before placing the patch on so that it sits higher. The other solution is to simply sand that thing down (as I'm sure you have already) once it's installed in the window so that your bucking alone does not push it further into the barrel in the 'off' position. That said though, R-hops work best with .28s, .30s and above - that's when you get your 50m+ ranges, so it may be worth investing if possible. I feel your pain though - I'm looking at £13 per 3000 for my 249 and that thing is going to be shooting close to 30rps when broken in. As far as FPS loss goes: Remember remember, FPS =/= energy. By-and-large (and Joule creep aside) your power is going to remain the same regardless of the weight of BB, and this is what sites really try to measure at the crono when they get everyone using the same weight. If you're using heavier BBs then you must still be around 1.05 - 1.15J if it's an AEG (335 - 350fps with a .20 respectively) as this is generally the site standard in the UK. With a .30, that's going to be roughly between 270 - 300fps. Obviously this means the BB takes longer to get there, but it'll actually get there and not drop off early. Edit: Added a bit more detail and added to FPS bit too. This may be of interest to anyone not following:

Yep I am in. Will be at Spec Ops on the 6th. Doubt I will get a weekend free anytime soon as I am in SE London most weekends. Got a lot of gear to buy too, boots, uniform gun etc.

Just bought one of the new combat machines for cqb. Really snappy trigger response. The guy in the shop said I was the first person to buy one as he only just got them in.

Samurai it would be a pleasure. I'm next there the 16th of this month. See you on the Battlefield.

My latest project - Started out as a JG MP5SD6. I gave the gearbox a basic cleanup and upgrade, new piston, silent head and nozzle, new bearings properly shimmed and greased, popped in a guarder high speed motor, a madbull tightbore, guarder rubber and H-nub, fixed the hop lever to lock in place once set. Cleared out the suppressor and refilled it with tool chest liner matting as it was just an echo chamber. Gives a really nice rof and range. Externally I hated the folding stock, it kept retracting as I was aiming. Fitted an ICS M4 stock tube adaptor and sling mount with a nice light CAR15 stock. Might swap it out for a magpul CTS stock though. Front grip is an ICS pro large handguard with a stubby foregrip and a nice big cree tac torch. Put an aimpoint sight on a low profile mount on top and its my goto CQB weapon.

The problem I've got is I'm running out of places to hide my collection in the mancave/garage if only the wife knew how many guns I've really got.......

TM Famas with 4 mid caps and 1 Hi cap. TM Pump action with 7 30 round shells. TM Hi-CAPA 4.3 with 2 mags. £200 all in and meet a fellow enthusiast and all round good egg. Oh and a WE Holo Sight, Black Chest Rig, Gun bag, Bolle X800 goggles and other assorted odds and sods. .

I agree with what you've said, but you seem to have ignored what I mentioned about nav lights. A 20-30 lumen light in red, green or blue will certainly not be visible from long distances/across lanes/around corners etc the way a strong white light would; very far from it. If people flash their weapon lights around just for the purposes of seeing where they're going then that's a problem with their specific equipment and tactics, it's not a problem with lights. One thing we all got told to buy going through basic was a small Gerber torch with filters for the above mentioned colour as well as white, we all used them extensively through many long nights and they worked well indeed. A white light will absolutely give away your position as well as ruining your night vision along with the rest of your teams'; a small red light will not do any of those things realistically when used properly. Airsofters just don't take this in to account as they're not aware of it, you can't bunch all lights in one category as all having the same effects.

Just bought an N.P.A.S. ...... FPS adjustment tool. And a new Chrono.

So as soon as your UKARA expires you need to sell or two tone all of your RIFs? I had another quick flick through the VCRA and couldn't see anything about ownership. Just manufacturing, importing and selling. I could of course be wrong, (quite common lol), but if I am then there's a LOT of people misinformed.

Have you played any games at all yet ? If you are buying a two tone weapon to get into airsoft, its worth playing a game or two to look whats others are doing and formulate what you need. Its easy to buy kit and have to replace it because you dont like it or its wrong for your game style. Just take it slowly. Loadouts get built up - it doesnt happen overnight.

Hello How do you do. I am about to embark on my airsoft journey. I am about to purchase a G+G CM16 Raider with 5 addtional mags I am trying to work out what attachements would be useful, i dont want to go out and buy things that i will never use, i guess a upgraded sight would be a starting point. Im not sure about lasers or lights wether or not they are useful or hinderance. Im also toying with the ide of a fore grip. any advice would be great Thanks Matt

I guess the other questions would be what sort of gear is worth purchasing for personal wearing. Ie tactical vests so on. I think I will get a red dot for the moment to make aiming slightly better any recommendations for a budget good unit? As for slings if I get a tactical vest is it worth investing in a clip to vest unit? Sorry for all the questions. Don't want to rock up in the traditional all gear no idea type

Red dot. If you play night or dark cqb, then a torch.

Depends where you are going to play. You dont need lasers and lights in woodland for example. How about a sling, a foregrip if you dont like holding the fore rail and an optic, in that order of importance ?

Most of the dialogue in Battlefield 4, primarily because of the really excessive swearing.

I just cant believe i missed them setting up a store and skirmish-site in my home town, although it didn't last long it seems, pricey area for real estate! Some said it was over-priced, I would have happily spent £20 for an hour using my TM High Cycle to shoot local brats armed with justbbguns potato-cannons. That'd be 5 minutes of me shooting kids until they quit, and 55 minutes practicing a convincing Simpsons-Nelson HAW HAW before the game started A friend of mine bought a B500A1 from them ages ago and had no troubles, although he was dissapointed that the button on the side didn't summon an SAS assault team via helicopter as promised in the review

There is no such thing as too many weapons. Ever. i advise buying more. guns are more important than a wife. you have us now.

Not a problem as long they follow the rules, listen to people that have more experience and don't be a dick. Same as everyone really.

Treat your RIF like your genitals, don't get it out in public, don't wave it about where neighbors can see and don't be a dick! The only time you should have it out is when your in the woods with strangers. ....Oh no this metaphor was a bad choice