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The uniform of an SS officer has become a pure reprisentation of hatred from a lot of people from russian, Polish, French, British etc as well as ethnic groups like jewish and gypsy people. The nazi ideals has also become synonyms with opression and because of the regalia has been adopted by hard right racist groups and neo-Nazi organisations, the who ethos of the SS is still deep seeded in hatred by entire generations that is still very much evident to this day. If I was at a skirmish and someone rolled up dressed (By choice) as an SS officer I know there weould be a prize for causing that player as much pain & suffering as possible during the day. Its one of these moments where someones personal belief's would be instantly assumed by others. THe SS carried out horrific war crimes that is so etched into ethnic blood lines that they are still being disscussed and felt to this day and will never be forgotten. To the OP: you may not find the idea of an SS uniform as offensive but others probably will, no one can tell you what to do in life, they can only offer advice and this is one of these moments where I would seriously consider if this is a good idea on your part.

My recommendation:Kid, please, do things in real life smarter, wiser and nicer than any of your current attitude here.

There's a time and a place. A normal skirmish is neither.

ill just leave this here (WE SCAR)

There's something distinctly brilliant about emptying one of the 50 round mags in 2.5 seconds when it's a pistol though; very few other GBBs produce that much kick and they're fairly unique for it. TM frames do crack at the front screw post after about 3000 rounds, but the Guarder ones (aprox. £30) are re-enforced with brass and are the first upgrade one should buy for them. The TM ones are built solidly elsewhere and the tolerances are good, but I'd never touch the WE and KWA ones (which is what many people form their opinions from). They're cheap and nasty - far too much money goes into the material cost of a metal slide, and the internals are made of complete pot metal. And that sexy ported barrel:

I personally run a Blackhawk riggers belt in Tan, cant fault it. http://www.uktactical.com/p-8469-blackhawk-rigger-belt-dark-earth-coyote-tan.aspx?gclid=CMzR3YKN_MYCFYLJtAodbx8GeA

To be honest I think their priorities aren't what needs to be reorganised but maybe your attitude does.

oh and a sniper is a person not a weapon.

Very large rifle. Would suggest you see one in the flesh before buying. A lot of new players are drawn towards being a sniper. Unless you really are sure its a style you are going to like, I would be wary. Many are drawn by the mystique but get bored of waiting around a long way from the action. If you want to play an active role but are drawn towards that style of gun, there are lots of smaller DMR on the market. Gear depends on what role you want to play in games.

There is no airsoft "license", if you are talking ukara, it's a "defence" ;-)

Don't trade it. Gas sniper rifles are crap unless you're using HPA - you need consistency. You should never be using propane if you're serious about the best performance. Stove gas is dirty and screws up your internals and o-rings over time. If you want the most powerful gas in the UK then it's still Guarder Powerful Gas - Firesupport stock it. Again though, stick with spring. Your TM VSR is basically the most accurate bolt action airsoft rifle out there anyway.

No, it's a pain in the donkey to get right, to much to little can ruin it. even worse when you do it for a friend !!! who is watching !!!

Cheers, ive also done my pals M4 Firehawk

Just bought Special Teams Carbine 10/22 Gas Sniper Rifle ASG x 3 green gas mags Tactical bipod 3.5-10 x 50 scope And painted it myself. ... did my UMP 45 while i was at it.

Full auto in a pistol is a gimmick and having the fire selector mech present complicates the trigger box and causes parts to wear faster. So personally l think it makes more sense to get the G17 because no auto means it'll last longer and have a slightly simpler mechanism.

Having read through Chapter 2 there is a general fault in the logic of defining lethality on the basis of muzzle energy. As they quite rightly point out a dart (designed to penetrate) will be lethal at 1J whereas airsofters get hit with >1J BBs all the time and they don't get injured let alone die from the impact. Lethality isn't just about muzzle velocity, its also about penetration and that is about pressure. Its somewhat amusing actually because we already have a basic test for lethality involving ballistics gel. If you cloth a ballistics gel dummy and you still get sufficient penetration to kill a human then you have yourself something that is potentially lethal. If it can't do that (and airsoft weapons can't even at 2.5J) then its not going to be lethal. Its only a consultation but I think I ought to comment on the lethality section and the definition based soly on muzzle velocity is severely lacking in basic understanding of the physics involved in bullets penetrating and both sides need to be addressed.

Most peoples jobs don't involve crimes against humanity...

Just No. SS uniforms are offensive in the wrong situations. An SS officer impression would not be welcomed even in WW2 airsoft for 2 reasons: Officers are part of the organisation of the game and SS impressions are only useful when the specific scenario is one where SS units would be present. A standard german uniform would be perfectly acceptable. If you want something different then Fallschirmjager or Gebirgsjager are quite cool.

Oh my god, I did Nazi that reply coming lmao, great one

Anything to do with the nazis should be avoided like the fuckin plague

dress as you want, just avoid any badges/emblems etc etc you may offend someone, but don't worry, wearing MTP/DPM/etc etc will offend some people

Having read through as much of the consultation paper as I can, before getting brain ache, I do think that at last the Government has decided to get their Act together (pun intended) in relation to firearms and, from the tone of the consultation paper, I do think it will overall be of benefit to the airsoft industry and our hobby. I would prefer that they use the 2.5J - 1.3J limits, otherwise we might all have to end up buying TM products to keep below the 328fps / 1J limit. The paper does at least seem to side with the airsoft industry, so there is hope for us yet. The really daft part of the current legislation is obviously that over 18s can still buy and use a 12ft/lb air rifle, which has a rifled barrel and can shoot a pointed projectile at around 12J and which can kill vermin, and cause significant injury to a human, but is prohibited, without access to the provisions of the VCRA specific defense, from buying an airsoft RIF that shoots a round projectile out of a smooth bore at around 1 - 1.3J and which, whilst it can break skin (I know from numerous games!!), cannot puncture to sufficient depth or with sufficient kinetic energy to cause significant injury. Hopefully in a few years we can have a much more user friendly Firearms Act that defines airsoft RIFs as toys and takes them out of the FA entirely. We can only hope.

Perhaps a little too much hyperbole - certainly wasn't intended to be taken so literally. I get that they can't turn into dust when you fire them, and need to be able to at least hit the side of a barn, but at the end of the day we're talking about the £20 difference between having something locked to semi and something that does both. The only objective reason for not having it to come up so far is that it produces a bit more wear on the internals when you're blatting away at 20 rps, but that's a given. There's also the issue of the selector not fitting into some holsters, though I've yet to experience this myself. Those who've had bad experiences with the G18c seem to have either owned KWA/WE or just don't take care of their stuff properly. The 'full auto in CQB' point is moot - most sites ban it anyway, and you'd never see any reasonable player using it. The auto is very effective in bursts though and will reach out to about 25-30 metres in the right conditions. To everyone: Go fire a TM G18c in full auto if you've not before - it's a rather 'unique' airsoft pistol when in auto, and on semi it's just another TM G17 - one of the most reliable, practical and accurate airsoft pistols that you can own. Select fire is rather impractical, but for the £20 I'd do it again in a heartbeat. Indeed I did - twice. Ah, thanks. I just thought they were trying to be a bit arty-farty, heh.

I can't see anything except some blanks ?

It's called titanium gold because it's supposed to look like Titanium Nitride which has a gold colour to it. Often used on motorbike forks because it helps reduce friction (and looks nice).

They still need to be practical.

I do hope that's the gbbr version...

I really do like that paint work, is it easy to achieve?

I don't personally see the merit of a full auto pistol. If it's your sidearm, then you're probably using it in close quarters or in buildings, where full auto isn't needed or wanted (at my local site, you aren't even allowed to use full auto I'm buildings), and if it's your primary you either need to be very conservative to make your ammo last through a game or be made of magazines

Obviously you had an inferior brand then, and this is what I mean with most people tarring all of them with the same brush; the TM one can be in any position before using the fire selector. I've noticed the selector to be very spongey on the others too - the TM one has a very positive click. I've not once accidentally had it switch to full auto from semi (or vice versa). Firesupport I think. If not then overseas - WGC probably stock it. It's a Guarder one, but I know they have a weird name for the colour for some reason so it might not be as straight forward to search for. Edit: Yeh, 'titanium gold' is the colour. Here's the link: http://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/guarder-aluminum-cnc-titanium-golden-outer-barrel-for-marui-18c

Doubt you'll find a site that'l let you do it due to insurance. I'd say this is one those things that is dangerous regardless of idiocy, far too much potential for grenade to the face even if the person was trying to be very sensible. Someone could easily walk into the line of fire and take it to the face, or you could accidentally aim wrong and hit someone. Even if was allowed I'd not want to risk it during a game, for the same reason i'd not want to catapult half a brick around. If you hit someone with it they could sue the pants off you Would look cool though...

I'm liking the paint work and the UMP, very tasty

www.military1st.co.uk have quite a wide range of flecktarn kit. There's also flecktarn.co.uk which Loz already mentioned

Been done plenty of times. Personally I think it's stupid and dangerous, no harm in using your arm to throw the thing.

A Mike cripps TM hi Capps 5.1 with a few tweaks 😉

Im sure somebody can lend you a hairdryer, that and a spanner is all you need.

I run with 5 G&P mid caps they feed perfectly in my G&P m416 and I think that they are compatible with all ICS m4s but it's worth sending where ever you're buying them from a email just to double check. (I got mine from wolf armories for £19)

Www.flecktarn.co.UK

This is one of those times where you have to carefully consider what other people's feelings and emotions will be, based in your own actions. Choosing to dress as an officer of the SS WILL cause offence to other people as you will be a physical representation of the atrocities that were commited. Even if you don't mean any offence, it will be caused. If I was you I'd do some research into what the SS did and I don't mean just read Wikipedia. Go to the library, get some books out and learn what happens. The SS commited many many attrociates killing innocents, including women and children, simply based on their beliefs. Crimes so horrendous that they cannot and should not be forgotten. I very much doubt you will want to wear an SS Uniform once you see what they represent, regardless of how smart or stylish they look.

Because full auto is for girls

Been a while guys, but got round to this eventually, so thought I'd update those who care So, started off with disassembling the gun, which was fairly straight forward. Sorry about the mess... Once I removed the heatshield I soaked the relevent parts in the fairy power spray, which did nothing at all So I decided to sand the parts down, took a good 2-3 hours to do it slowly and properly, didn't want to use too low grit paper, so took my time, after the parts were decently sanded down, applied the primer, about 40 mins per coat, 3 coats overall. It got very dark very quick Decided at the very last minute I wanted the plastic part to be black instead of brown, looks better IMO and more authentic, so considering I had grey primer for the metal and white plastic primer for the heatshield, I gave the polymer heatshield 2 coats of white plastic then 2 coats of grey primer as I didnt want to spray black paint over white primer, was a massive risk but hey ho.. Finished results (That i'm ridiculously proud of tbh, although not perfect) Considering i've never done anything like this before, i'm well chuffed with the result, messed up the black on the barrel at one point, sprayed too close and it run and looked terrible, tried to wipe it but made it even worse, so let it dry, sanded it slowly for an hour, and started again. Little bits here and there that aren't brilliant but nothing major, i'm just very overly critical and my own worse critic most of the time! Thanks for the help to those who offered advice, made the process so much easier!

So you've got a 2 tone gun and you are unhappy because it's easy to turn it into a RIF while trying to turn it into a RIF? Am I missing something here?

Suggestions? Swap the Nazi Swastika for the Sanskrit Swastika, then no one can accused you of being thoughtless. Though some forget, people died on the other side too.

For a minute I was thinking "who's going to buy a replica where they've moulded the blade upside-down?" but no, the russians just made them to be the opposite way to the L85 and M16 bayonets I usually see. Does make sense though when you look at the relation between the main cutting edge and the largest part of the hilt. Learnt something new today.

If it's a firearms ban, then airsoft should be fine. The VCRA classes them as Imitation firearms. If they were firearms then they would not be imitations.

My point still stands. Camouflage used for the environment that it was designed for will be effective, it isn't used to make you completely invisible to the opponents (that's what ghillie suits are for, lol.) it just makes it a bit harder for them to see you.

Or you silhouette yourself against the backdrop, or add loads of black mags and carry a black gun, or refuse to use cover properly, or put yourself against bad colours, or make the world's supply of noise, or don't stow your kit properly, or move too quickly, or pick bad routes... I've yet to see anyone use camo well... Anyone at all...

I used to be quite good at that game. I found the trick was to be out in the open but flat against the ground. The people moving through the bushes and cover would snap twigs etc and thats where the spotter would be expecting people. In airsoft you expect people to be by trees, so don't be by a tree. In WW2 airsoft, it's simple. The trick is to not be near the Americans. British battledress works better than the American gear and the American players tend to be a lot less stealthy. Plus if you stay away from them, they can't accidentally shoot you A big factor in camouflage is the shape of your head. The most likely part of you to be sticking out so it's a good idea to make it less head shaped. A boonie is good for this, tacticool FAST helmets aren't. If you have a scrim scarf, drape it over your head to break up the outline. The best camo I find is the old brushstrokes camo.