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This x1000000000000000 Chronos should be mandatory kit for HPA users. Why would anyone drop a huge wedge of cash on an HPA setup and not £50-£60 on a chrono is beyond my limited comprehension.

Welcome back. Whilst the halcyon days of plastic-bodied Tokyo Marui's being the de-facto standard for Airsoft AEGs is long over - we are still shooting tiny plastic BB's at each other in much the same fashion as 20 years ago. If your gun is shooting 340-350fps, reasonably accurately and reliably, at a rate of fire you are content with, then it's all good - take it out and play a day with it. It'll also give you the opportunity to see what other people are using and benchmark your gun's performance against something more contemporary. I think your gun, if all is working correctly, will be absolutely fine. But I would avoid the 11.1v LiPo for now personally - it might be a bit much for the gun.

After selling off all my MWS’ uppers / lowers / projects I’m now down to one rifle and a bunch a spares…needs a PDW buffer tube if they exist. TM 17’ & G&P 40 rounder for scale, she’s smoll. Short inner barrel barely effects range or power output. Can edit for parts list if anybody actually cares 🙃

So anyway, I was on the internet looking at things I don't need and I found this... Remake of the bank robber mag carrying vest from HEAT. On pre-order for £150... (and I've just noticed they sell plush hand grenades too!)

Likely to be my final airsoft purchase of 2022 🤥, a Posca pen to help identify which mag is being a dick.

I swapped the lower for a railed unit fairly quickly. Left the top one off because I couldn't work out how to get the end caps to fit. Looked cool as fuck. Ended up selling it to my best mate who is now moving to Australia so I may well end up getting it back!

Nice. I used to have a CM.045A with the wood furniture. Also...BASTARD!!!!

Arktis make a couple of low profile and covert rigs for much less 👍

No disputing it's a cool bit of kit, but it's not cheap for an occasional Airsoft loadout that's fairly limited in its use, for example, no Hydration capabilities, would I want to wear a full suit just to achieve the "look" at this time of year ? 😜 PS, wasn't there an rmp covert vest not unlike that for considerably less shekels ?

Best: a crappy theta optics fts magnifier, because it started me on the journey of changing my whole style of play. Similarly my nuprol ak21. It started life as a project gun, and it can be a pain at times, but its been my main squeeze through the whole sneaky gameplay journey and tbh I love the thing now. Worst is the Raven p226, or whatever they call it. Wank piece of kit. Feels nice but has the performance of a £5 hopper fed bb gun.

Boiler / heating ones: This one is not finished yet.... Needs a little tidying. Interfaces the home automation shenanigans to the boiler's cascade manager (the oem stuff costs a crazy amount).

Hello everyone, I am professional propmaker, based in Austria, with a focus on airsoft-grade items such as helmets, armor as well as gun-modifications and soon even airsoft guns built from scratch. In this thread I would like to share with you some previous work and love to hear your thoughts on each piece. Also feel free to share your own work. If you need something made, I have a few standard items from the Halo Series available and I also do costum orders. Anything is possible. First one is my ODST setup. The helmet is a glassfibre-infused polyurethane cast with an active 50mm fan, external LED light modules, face illumination, side rails, NVG mount, tactical foam inserts, adjustable chin-strap. The visor is a 2mm polycarbonate visor, which withstands up to 520 fps bolt-action shots from point-blanque. The armor is MOLLE compatible and fits most plate carriers. It is also made from glassfibre-infused polyurethane. All the best, Alex

So my new shs 13.1 gearset arrived today, and Ive started to get eh gb shimmed and hopefully I'll have it alkl finished today. Or so I thought. Gears are shimmed to the GB shell, and shimmed with a very small gap between each gear, but when I test to see if the gears are meshing well they seem to spin fine then get stuck/caught on something. Appears to be a problem between the bevel and spur gear. Anyone had a problem like this before?

My local site is driverwood near Crawley. They run night games on Wednesday. When it gets dark early I think they are brilliant. They've spent a lot of money on lighting round the perimeter which changes colour, a audio system that pipes in effects and smoke machines. I run a very old Lenser LED torch rigged up to a pressure switch, it has a easy adjustable slide focus (common on torches these days) and will light up something 200m away.....over kill maybe but I've found a quick press and a burst of BBS and it acts like a tracer. I also get into cover and light a area up and team mates still hiding in the shadows can pick enemies off easily.

For anyone that hasn't seen it, probably the most awesome shootout ever filmed👍 Just watched it for old times sake, now I want another FNC 😍

Warning, I got a weird phone message asking if I want to sell authentic ancient egyptian artifacts... I think it's a pyramid scheme scam.

At least you are not a heating 'engineer'. Electricians and heating engineers think they are Gods gift to the building trade. Maximum money for minimum effort. £80 for a ten minute electrical safety certificate and five minutes of that is writing the certificate lol. Bricklayers and plasterers we are down to earth and not afraid to get our hands dirty. Good old fashioned plumbers though are a dying breed. Hats off to them 👍. Love to all 😉 Regards

Yeh - I have a couple sets of Empire Helix which are fine. Quite like the look of the HK HSTL.

Dean's are a definite improvement over "baggy" tamiya's, & can be bought with about 4 inches of wire already attached, much easier than soldering the actual contacts. Mags I'm sure are fine, but be aware that pretty much all bb's will degrade or swell if not kept 100% airtight & out of the light, sunlight or artificial, they're more temperamental than gremlins lol.

Had the CM.045A with the wood furniture too. Not worth the extra $$ and I wished I had the plastic hand guard TBH.

I've only seen one in the 'real' and it made the wearer look like a bobble-head. I think the helmet was FAST sized, but the face mask makes the whole thing look much bigger. I'm sure it's a decent product though - just don't expect to be able to aim down sights with one: (Random google images result)

Surprisingly - given the choice, I'd rather unblock a loo than I would a bath or kitchen sink. At least with a turd you kinda know where you stand - with those other drains the smell is worse and feck knows what is in there. Anywho... back on topic.... LOL....

Because they are massive and cumbersome.

Super cool 100%.but agreed with the above statement. I have gone through loads of ‘cool’ load outs/load carrying and tried a couple of impressions but they don’t give you the flexibility needed for airsoft. I would certainly love to see someone looking like a bank robber with one at a game and would appreciate it, but I couldn’t get on with it myself. Certainly not at that price and I want those hand grenades. Have no need or use for them but man I want them lol

Thats summer for you

Best, either my TM Devgru, MWS or, as others have said, a gen Odin speedloader (and MWS adapter). Worst, Viper mesh goggles or an impulse purchase of a drop-leg holster from Amazon, back when I knew nothing. As much use as tits on a fish.

yeah, it's a difficult one to be absolutely sure given any manufacturer could potentially have a bad batch, but avoiding brands with the reputation is the best we can really aim for.

I’ve gotta ‘see a man about a dog’ and I’ll let you know .

Wish I was - those feckers earn a lot more money.... I'm more the on the Diva side of the trade because I don't' like getting my hands dirty 🤪

Isn't the correct term "turd herder"?

This right here is why I have some sympathy with Anzio's 1J limit on HPA. Just not their method of conveying that and implementing it.

Which one do you have, I couldn't find any victoptics scopes in ffp. For OP, I also support using optics. I bought fairly rubbish fts magnifier, and though I hate that thing, playing with zoom made a world of difference in woodland. My usual setup for my 1j "dmr" is a 3-9x scope with a red dot on top for closer range stuff. Currently looking at a decent fts magnifier or an lpvo for my regular m4. But having a properly zero'd scope on a reasonably accurate gun means you can pull off some pretty nice shots through foliage that you probably couldn't without zoom.

Best: G&G CM16. Light, reliable and cheap back when I bought it. ~Also my homemade PLCE yoke and battlebelt rig. Super comfy and absolutely minimalist. It's evolved over the years. Worst: The crap M4 and almost as crap shotgun that I bought from JustBBguns. Wish I'd found the forum sooner...

Cheers mate, always good to offer pro advice. I do have some wire strippers already. They are a cheapo set but work fine for the little that I use them. I actually used them a fair bit this week putting up security lighting. I felt I'd done well, but looking at @Dan Robinson's work, I have a bit to go on piping smoke around malarkey.

My Best: My GHK M4 Got it in a bundle, it roughly cost me EFF All by the time I sold the rest of the bundle on, and Gawd-Damn is it fun to shoot 😈 My Worst: WE Galaxy Just an absolute abortion of a pistol It stayed in my possession for roughly 72 hours 😂🤦🏻‍♂️

Buy yourself a chrono. One of the most underrated pieces of kit for an airsofter to own is their own chrono so they can test things like this at home, especially for HPA users and people who tech their own guns. As you don't have one, what I'd say is set it to about 60psi and take it to the range early on the day, before chronos are set up. Get the hop dialled in, then once it's dialled in and shooting well, take it to chrono and see where it's shooting at. If it's super below 1.1J, adjust the reg a little, but if it's close to a joule I'd say leave it until you have your own chrono and can take as much time as you want fine tuning the reg and FCU, which you will want to do as you'll want to set the dwell and the psi properly to make it as consistent as possible. If you want to fine tune it, you could ask the staff if you can borrow a chrono and sit the first game out, but I wouldn't pester the staff before the games as they'll have their hands full chronoing everyone else. I have my own chrono so I usually take my chrono up to the range, get my m21 set for 1.1J on the money, adjust my scope, make sure the hop is right etc, then I go to chrono for the site once I've done all my own setup with my own chrono.

Every month is pride month if you're gay enough

Gay Pride was last month I thought?

Best: KJW KC02 Worst: KJW KC02

Why would you feel guilty for a shattering BB causing some damage though? It's a well known fact mesh eye pro is not very safe, precisely for this reason. Someone still wants to wear mesh eye pro instead of goggles it's at their own risk, not something you should feel guilty about at all. At least in my book.

Best: a real Odin speedloader. Worst: a knockoff Odin speedloader. Used it once, but it couldn't load my EPM mags, so I never used it again and later bought the real one.

I went with the Aim-O 1-4x24 scope. I found it quite cheap at a more local shop, and it looks very similar to the Victoroptics one.

I've been using Empire goggles for 12 years or so in various models - E-vents and E-flexes and I also have a couple of pairs of the low-end Helix as loaners and for my kids to use. So I can say I like them. As a glasses wearer - the lens design is big enough that my specs fit inside with loads of room. I use a DIY goggle fan setup to mitigate fogging on the glasses (a problem with any paintball google for a glasses wearer). As for Dye - well, frankly, if they are shit, people wouldn't buy them either new or second hand - they are very popular. I've not tried either the i4 or i5 personally (I had the Dye Invision/i3's which is a very different goggle system). The i4 and 5 use the same lens design and the i4 can be had for £100.

That's a very different class of Paintball goggle. Once you've been higher-end (like OP already has), entry-level feels pretty shit by comparison. JT Proflex (not the 'X' version) are pretty epic for comfort and breath-ability, let down by the issue that the lenses can be a bitch to change. The X-version seems a bit wank as the frame is thicc (and cheap looking) and cuts down your vision. Empire E-Flex matches the look and performance of the original Proflex but with a better lens system - I have two sets and have been amazeballs over the years. They do have an Airsoft version with a mesh lower called the E-Mesh A lot of the Airsoft speedybois use Dye I5s. They can be had for well within your budget (£160) and hold their value really well if you keep them in good nick. If you start down the helmet route - expect to sweat - a lot.

A hacker gang have deleted all the data from google maps for a triangle between Bradford, Wakefield and Wetherby. The police say that at this stage they have no Leeds.

some brands of gearbox just don't like certain ratios and certain types brands of gears I've found over the years, it's why I stock both SHS and ZCI. If you can, try the gears in another shell you might have, or if you got the gears from me then feel to send them back to me and I'll try them out.

This is the other side, but the problem isn't with the sector gear, cause the sector and spur gears run perfectly together. It's only when I put the bevel gear in that I get issues.

Picked this up yesterday, looking forward to using it at the weekend 🙂

hmm, maybe the flash hider itself? the way you're describing it sounds like you already know and have checked for the usual suspects but just for the sake of completeness the only thing you haven't mentioned specifically is checking the hop mound is centered in the barrel, and it's worth doing that over a range of hop settings as it can look fine on minimal hop only to deform when turned up further.

first suspect i'd be looking towards is the bb's clipping something on the way out, typically a suppressor but can be a bit of damage in the inner barrel (although in this case unlikely given you've swapped that out already) it's not sounding like the typical jack issue which is inconsistent velocity/vertical spread.