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There’s one golden rule I feel that Mr Hamster has not mentioned in his, frankly, spot on and thorough advice Buy a second pew first The chances of failure on a game day increase in a directly proportional manner to the amount of faffing around you do with the gun. There’s nothing worse than funnelling cash into a pew, having it fail on game day and having to sit games out. Once you’ve got a second gun in the bag to fall back on, follow Mr Hamster’s guide to the letter Two is one and one is none

the first question is what is your goal? given it's an sr25 i'm going to assume that you're after the usual range/accuracy camp. bearing in mind when it comes to suggestions for specific products you can ask 10 different people and 11 different answers, and while i tend to stick to reccommending stuff i've actually used myself that doesn't mean there aren't other perfectly viable (or even better) options out there. as a general rule i tend to go with a particular order, in a rough order of effort-reward ratio: clean the barrel- and get into the habit of keeping it clean, at least before and sometimes even during every game day. there's debate over silicone versus alchohol and what it does to hop rubbers which i avoid by doing neither. if your gun came with a plastic clearing rod that's the perfect tool for the job (won't scratch up the barrel) with a strip of microfibre wrapped round it. some folk use cigarette filter tips although never tried that one myself. feed it good quality heavy ammo. it's amazing (especially with ak's) the number of times i've "fixed" a gun with jamming/feeding/accuracy problems just by emptying the mag and refilling it with geoffs. weight wise you want to be going as heavy as possible, the limit being what your gun can lift (which can be changed) and how much money you can afford to be sending downrange. for an assault style role i tend to find around the .3g range is a nice balance between cost and performance, but for a lower round count gun like a dmr then splashing out for the heavies is much easier. the best airsoft gun on the planet would still shoot like shit if you fed it crap ammo. hop rubber/nub- this goes hand in hand the ammo choice as this will dictate how heavy you can go. my general go-to combo is the standard maple leaf macaron with omega nub, sometimes the longer feedlips can cause feeding issues and in those cases i tend to switch to the PDI W-hold with a standard nub. the hardness rating is something that needs to be appropriate for the weight/weather/energy considerations. a lower powered setup, colder climate or heavier ammo would preferr going softer (eg to lob .48's at 1j i need to use a green/tan) whereas a higher energy might just push the feed lips out of the way and leak air. air seal- in short, you want every atom that's in the cylinder to be going down the barrel after the bb and nowhere else. a bad air seal will make for terrible shot-shot consistency (vertical dispersion) and a lower average fps. there's no point spring swapping until you're confident that all the energy you're making the motor wind up every time is going to be turned into useful benefit. you can get a rough guide to how good the gun is currently by seeing how much change there is in fps between shots on a chrono, you want this to be as low as possible. do make changes however you will need to crack open the gearbox, which can be a daunting prospect. for the basic air seal checks you can have a look here: energy- once you've got good air seal then you can look at the spring. you shouldn't worry about being 5-10fps under but if you're a big chunk under the site limit then you'll want to think about bumping it up. this will ofc mean a spring change. barrel- we're starting to hit the diminishing returns curve now, and the gun should already be pretty decent. there are debates about tight versus wide bores however the one overriding factor for what makes a good barrel is quality, whatever diameter it's meant to be it shouldn't vary, it should be straight, and the inner surface finish should be smooth. some folks polish their barrels and can get very good performance out of stock brass, however a drop-in is a lot easier. in terms of specific products on a budget the ZCI 6.02's are fantastic value for money, if you wanna go a bit more high end then personally i'm a fan of the PDI stainless stuff, although remember we're hitting the diminishing returns. hop unit- tbh unless there's a specific problem with the stock unit, i'd tend to leave it alone. one of the big problems you can get in airsoft is tolerances, and a good quality hop such as the maxx might still make the gun worse if it's not the right fit for that gun, the stock unit will at least be the proper size and fitment. note that this rule tends to apply generally- simply throwing the most expensive/shiny of any given component into a gun isn't always going to improve it. what you do want to make sure is that the hop unit is being pressed up nice and tight to the gearbox, in many cases there'll be a little spring that does this however a larger spring wrapped around the barrel or a stack of o-rings can work quite nicely. of course this is all improving the guns base ability to lob bb's with consistency, however there are other things that might be worth considering that can help improve practical use when accounting for actually having to use the thing: trigger response (well, lock time)- while you can largely get around this by knowing your gun well it definately feels better to have less time between pulling the trigger and the shot actually happening. the simplest and easiest way to do that these days is a precocking mosfet like the gate warfet/titan or the higher end perun units. bear in mind as a platinum series your gun will already have an internal mosfet and might well be snappy enough for your preferences. handling- doesn't matter if the gun shoots straight if it's so heavy/awkward to use that you can't aim it properly. we're very much in the hedgerows of personal choice and if you want to plaster your gun with grips/flashlights/lasers/bipods etc for no other reason than you want to/think it looks cool then absolutely go for it, just remember that extra weight comes with a penalty.

I shouldn't think that mixing microdots and airsoft would work too well, especially the purple ohms. They mong you out like fuck.

My son has bought me a Army Armament R45a1 1911 compact. It's all metal. Double stacked mag (18 shots) and so far, I'm really impressed with it. Very snappy, small enough to be squirrelled away and a great little fun gun.

“I’m a Millionaire!!!”

Nothing special this time, just part of the kit I ran yesterday.

Boneyard pulse rifle stripped , fixed and now weathered . I think it may need more “distressing” . And I need a couple more short mags .

This appears to be the more exspensive version at £239.00. however that should include a micro dot as well as the suppressor but op has failed to mention the red dot.

Sounds like you've already got it covered. I'm not a huge fan of the Madbull barrels but I'd only replace it once it gets worn. What isn't it doing that you're unhappy about?

Model, manufacture and what's been done to it is really needed to give any advice. Also who did the work because the first thing done should have been hop and barrel.

It was very much left handed screw driver type advice.

Not until “Mummy” let’s me have my night-night suckle 🥛

Hello all! This is my first time posting on the loadout section of the forum. I currently have a few loadouts that I run, two of which are based on US marshals, one being 21st century, the other being 19th century (around 1880s). I'm looking to do either a state trooper, US Marshal, or other type of Lawman from the 1950s/60s currently and wondered if any of you wonderful people had done older law enforcement loadouts and wanted to see what kit you wear and where you got it from. I understand it's very niche, but Airsoft is all about dressing up and being unique! It would also be interesting to see original 'G man' loadouts, 80s cops or Police Swat team loadouts for fun and inspiration as I can't find much reference online for this sort of thing. For my loadout, i've already got the guns sorted it's just the clothing i'm not sure on. Ideally I want to avoid civvie clothes like shirt and tie and my cowboy hat is a MUST.

£230 for a TM MP7 GBBR with body damage, selector issues and a god awful paint job https://prefired.co.uk/ads/custom-tokyo-marui-mp7-gbb/

I was thinking about going but I have a test on to deal with on the Saturday and there’s ZERO chance of me being able to reschedule that I will be well up for it 2022 tho

So here’s a sneak peak on the work in progress to my new project which I think will surpass my mask/mesh combo hack. It will be designed to go over a pair of Bollé Pilot goggles and snap to the out goggle frame and I’m hoping it will weigh less than the mask/mesh combo (atm it weighs a fuck tonne)

Oh I will add if you have some mouldable putty (like Sugru) to surround the fan/s it will cut down on a lot of the fan whine and will protect it a little too

Funny that you mention that, this just arrived Brrrrt - YouTube

Both of the bits above are spot on - I'd echo the spare gun sentiment, at least be prepared to fork out for a rental. One thing I will add is to budget for a chrono, unless you have one readily available at short notice. Too many times I've seen people fiddle with their toys, put it back together and go "it fires, ready for game day!" and it's either spitting rounds out underpowered or they're not able to use the gun at all as it's over the limit.

@sonofsammo lol He can’t be a uncle as he is now LORDOFALL (aka FoxhoundStarlight) I think he must have figured out that his “millions” won’t protect him when he is being a and as Mr Tripper Happy said humongous cockwomble

Getting stuff from HK, it takes really long time to arrive, it took about 5 weeks of long waiting for me to get parcel from HK to malaysia. Luckily you got one from eBay, how much you get a c-more from eBay?

You old fuddy duddy.

I'd suggest it's almost there with what's been done. Personally I wouldn't have gone for the titan as the perun units and the stock etu work really well. I'd suggest if you want to change something swap the barrel for a zci stainless steel tight bore. If memory serves the mbr variant inner barrel is 407mm and works well with the stock cylinder volume, though you need a outer barrel extension to cover it. I have the tr16 308 mbr, which I think is a 14.5" outer barrel which covers very nearly all of the 407mm inner.

If I was charged that much I’d most definitely expect a reach around as well ! 😳

yeah exactly an this was the rubber: Maple Leaf Hot Shot Hop-Up Bucking for Crazy Jet Airsoft Inner Barrels - 60 Degrees

Errmmm...yes and no. It'll be 0.4A if they're all in parallel, 0.2 if it's two pairs in series parallel and 0.1 if they're all in series.

I take it they fitted the Omega nub with the ML hope rubber? To be honest it sounds like it may just need some more BBs through it to bed in the rubber. Any idea which ML rubber they put in?

Better barrel would be a Prometheus EG or a ZCi. What kind of actual range are you getting, how much have you used it since the work was done and what weight BBs are you using?

Having had the Ares Honey Badger for just over 4 years, I can definitely tell you to avoid it like the plague. It looks cool (not really, has fuck all to do with the real Q Honey Badger) but the internals are an absolute shit show. Proprietary gearbox and electronics, tinfoil thick shell, zero air seal and a super weak piston. Tappet plates and nozzles are the weakest I've ever seen and Aluminium bushings, lmao. Couple that with the worst hop rubber I've ever used, you basically pay a ton of money for mediocre parts at best and a very front heavy gun with limited battery space for the sake of a "PeEdEeVuUu" stock. I don't think there is a single AEG on the market that is truly plug and play, every gun needs at least the hop rubber changed to a more performing one (this depends on the energy output and bb weight used, but generally stock hop rubbers aren't that good).

I don't think any carriers will send privately sold rifs out the UK . I have tried it and got it back 😂.

I will just throw things that I've seen on Classifieds that IMHO are good purchase - full disclaimer, I do not know any of these people. Brand new doesn't necessarily mean trouble free. Just remember to ALWAYS do transactions through PayPal and paying for product or service (NOT FAMILY AND FRIENDS), if someone wants a bank transfer - just avoid it. At 250gbp, 2018 version ASG CZ Scorpion EVO3 allegedly used only 2 times, with 2 batteries, extra mags and accesories is in my opinion a steal - brand new gun with 1 mag and no extras (which are 20gbp each give or take) sells for 319gbp (and you need UKARA). 2020 version to my knowledge has just updated electronics (which can be purchased separately as an upgrade, would you so desire). EVO is considered one of best AEGs out of the box and is often appearing in recommendations for new and veteran players alike - it's a proven construction with long track record of reliability. It's quirk is a system implemented, that some either love or hate, that stops fire on empty mag and require pressing bolt catch release after loading new mag in to be able to shoot again. Great for that realism factor, bad for fast reloads if you're not used to it... also most seasoned airsoft players immediately assume their gun just broke when it stops firing ASG CZ Scorpion EVO 3 A1 - Electric Rifles - Airsoft Forums UK (airsoft-forums.uk) It's great at a distance, can fold stock to be even more compact for tight CQB action, it's lightweight due to it's polymer construction while not being fantasy gun (like G&G ARP9), it's one of the few airsoft replicas created in collaboration with manufacturer of the real firearm. As a matter of fact I have my very own 2nd hand EVO arriving today ------ If you're into tacticool M4s, this is also a great RIF: HERA ARMS CQR - Prefired Comes with built in SSS mosfet that brings pre-cocking for that crisp semi-auto trigger response, spring release on switching fire selector to "safe" and gearbox diagnostics (so when gun shits the bed mid game you can have rough idea of what's the issue), can switch full auto to 3rd burst, has ICS signature split gearbox for easier maintenance and quick change spring - comes with HERA ARMS licensed furniture which is an acquired taste. Gambit’s Guide: How To Configure Your HERA ARMS CQR – RedWolf TV - YouTube

aaaand that's enough internet for one day methinks.......

Yep, good review. As with Snuff, used to go there but eventually stopped because of issues such as hot guns (I got hit on the eyebrow which drew blood) Also marshals ignored some blatant cheating by the regulars. An OK place but there's better around the area such as Skirmish Wycombe and Red Alert.

ahh, i missed your creativity YOU'RE NOT MY REAL DAD!!!!!!11111 i think?

Nice, thank you.

Yep. Got my GHK from them. But be warned they do use UPS.

Just the Cyma 130rd 5 pack that Patrolbase are carrying. Nothing too posh!

I don't think there is much left to the imagination with the phrasing, seems entirely honest. The grip is genuine ergo grip (as the photo suggests), the stock is the PTS licenced Magpul MOE and the rest of the external bits are repro parts. I'm usually all for going through a build with a heap of crap on/in it to figure out where the value is... but on this occasion I'm inclined to agree that it's just an MWS with all the good bits replaced. If I want a RIF that takes Glock mags I'll get a... checks notes... Glock. Not to say it's over priced, though I suspect it is in terms of a price it'll actually sell at, but that is one hell of a niche thing to try and sell for such a steep price.

But they're not (a bit blunt, but not trying to be rude) both those two items, you say you have tested fitted so by definition they can not be brand new. You can say they're used but like new or open box but definitely not brand new. The general consensus on this forum tends to be unless its from a retailer, you don't class something as new even if unopened. Part of paying full retail price is the customer support and warranty they are legally obligated to provide. Something you as a private non commercial seller don't have to do. Again, not to familiar with the real steal market but I think the same rules still largely apply. Someone chime in if have more experience/info to offer.

Just drilled a hole in the side, there's plenty of meat on these goggles between the frames. I've also enlarged those existing vent holes a bit with a pointed soldering iron. Gentle, which is all I need given that these are already dual paned and I'm using Revision wipes. It's just for the times when I'm still after exertion. I have FMA fan goggles with a tiny side fan which also work, but I prefer these goggles as they're slightly neater and lighter.

Slightly more expensive day than I’d planned for… Just bought a real C-More on eBay!

I decided I liked your scope mount so much that I’ve had to buy one for myself! I think it’s going to end up on my Speedcat as that’s my go-to for HPA pistol play. Now let’s see how long it takes to get here from HK!

Magpul make an mp5K hand guard, m-lock slots all round. Or just pop it at 12 O’clock on the claw mount providing you don’t need to use your irons.

I have that Galaxy MP5K. Had the gearbox short stroked, mosfet fitted, Mapleleaf hop and bucking. Running on a 7.4 Lipo. It is a little wee beastie. The range and accuracy is super good. My plan is the mount a rail directly onto the plastic front grip. Then a light onto that. Seems the simplest easiest low profile way of doing it. Basically like this. Except on mine i am removing the vertical grip as well

Thanks again.

What you playing at ? Coming back with a polite reply !😱😁 Was Just a ‘gut reaction’ on first impression of your sales post from a jaded old fart of a player Who took it at face value .😉

That is a really interesting point that I had never thought of before. With most retailers offering credit options, it makes you wonder how big-ticket items will sell second hand (at a reasonable value for the seller) unless they are discontinued and/or collectable products. Say, if you are in the market for a high-end pre-upgraded TM NGRS package, you might think to yourself that it's worth paying the extra 30% to be A) able to buy it new and setup exactly how you want it straight away, B) comes with a retailers warranty and finally C) Pay it off in monthly installments. Tangent: Having experienced my own credit nightmares in the past (and all totally my fault)- I've had to work my butt off to be totally debt and finance free. Something I only achieved early this year after a decade or so of worry, sleepless nights and very nearly a divorce. The way credit is being thrown around on nearly every major retailer's website is scary, and it's so easy to be sucked in. But make one mistake (i.e. a late or missed payment) then your lovely interest-free purchase becomes a very nasty interest-attracting debt with sky-high rates. Make a few of those mistakes (and it can happen easier than you think) then you are completely fucked.

Girlfriend did a good gag last night - in all fairness i should have washed off the dick cheese first

I think this is finally in a state where i am happy to show it LCT G3A4 (DMRd to 430 fps, warfet, gearbox brace) Genuine Hensoldt 4x24 s2 (had 2 lense covers before some #%@£ng £%₩¥ decided to throw my rifle on the ground when i wasnt looking) Original hensoldt claw mount Aftermarket illuminator Cheapo rail Cyma kac grip Ali express kac rail cover Element llm01 (these suck!) Blue force vickers sling kryptek limited edition Genuine 7.62 magpul The pistol is my trusty KWA g19, these are indestructible this one was bought by my dad who used it in the garden a few times then left it in the loft for 10 + years until i took it out and it still worked! Since then its had a tbb, ml rubber and i key added and some custom work done on the hop. The shotty is my bargain double eagle springer.