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@Jedi_Master & @proffrink I have been playing whack-a-mole with the spammers for the last couple of days. I've nuked loads, I'm sure the other spam moderators have done the same. Can we lock the ability for new users to create new threads without approval from admin/spam moderator? So they create a new thread - but a admin/spam mod has to approve that thread to show to the wider masses? We would be able to tell pretty quicky if these are legit users, and the 'probationary' period will end if we are satisfied that what they post is appropriate to the forum.

Couple recent builds , HK416-SD6 🤪 (WE GBBR base ) URGI with MCB ‘ ish paint job ( WE GBBR base )

Christmas game at Red Alert. Airsoft is srs bzns.

Just taken delivery of the BAR, and it was so worth the 6 years wait to find one and have the money for it 😂 Sadly the stock mounting screws seem to have shitted themselves in transport so it's holding on for dear life but that seems to be common anyway. Can't wait to use it next month. * And in typical fashion, I buy an LMG and then find something else I've been after. Found the only ICS M1 Garand in stock in the UK (I believe), one left... Not any more. My bank account is going to hate me 😭

Agree, I've banned dozens the over the last week, who knew there were so many witch doctors out there🤣. Definitely need something new, spammer signs up & 10 minutes later they've created about 15 absurd threads, it will drive genuine members away if they can't be arsed to trawl through the crap to find the Airsoft stuff. Great.....not, to make matters worse they look underage, someone randomly passes through & sees that they'll think it's a nonce forum😬

Awesome Sunday morning at Driver Wood. First game i was using the new SSX303, mags loaded with red gas. I can only surmise that it was too cold for it (8 degrees c) - even keeping the next mag warmed up in a pocket, FPS and range was wildly inconsistent, and dare fire three or more shots in succession, and the BBs dropped 10m on front of me. Still, managed to about break even, with a memorable charge with the Glock19 on a kid who wasn't keen to accept the (albeit low powered) hits from the SSX303! Second game I swapped onto a MK18 AEG that I had largely re-built from parts - its first proper skirmish, and it performed superbly. With a rolling objective capture, 25 re-spawns allowed for the defenders on each objective, I managed to pull off a flank that left me a few meters directly behind the objective being defended. Must have shot at least 10-15 of the enemy team (mostly a very unsporting in the back!) before those returning from their spawn lit me up good and proper. I'd like to think that my little action there was a key element to us winning that game. Also first game wearing my new Multicam Tropic combats - awesome! Cheapo set from Aliexpress, and only an hour or so needed on the sewing machine to lengthen the legs and sleeves to fit...

My lesbian neighbours have got me a Rolex for Christmas. All because I said i wanna watch

Introduction: The lost art of capacitors in airsoft The mythical powers of "capacitor banks" is not a new idea in airsoft, but the original sources and theories are lost in time, with only faint forum posts remain (all the links are dead in https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/threads/capacitor-banks-revisited.8688/). In my pursuit of the ultimate trigger response in AEG, power supply remains a big unresolved issue because batteries (LiPo or NiMH) do not really give enough oomph for lack of a better word. We need something better, I thought, we need supercapacitors. And so I set out to rediscover the elementals of such dark magic from scratch (but based on the same principles). And I believe I have revived this magic which I will share my formula below. And dare I say, the surface of this dark art has not really been scratched, because the predecessors either did not use enough capacity (some examples were in the order of millifarads which is not nearly enough), and did not really use the correct type of supercaps (stacked coin cells hybrid types are not capable of high amps). And perhaps the right modules were not available until very recently, so this study will also represent a fresh look into this subject. If you want the bottom line: Why supercaps at all, isn't LiPo good enough? In short (excuse the pun), LiPo cannot provide sufficient peak current for the amp spikes during start of motor which is often in the region of 45-60 A. These micro-events of shorts (from the perspective of the battery) is also a main pathology of LiPo degrading and swelling over time. These spikes happen every shot in semi, and in the first shots in full-auto. This status quo practice of relying on abusing LiPo as sacrifice for performance does not sit well with me, because firstly it is electrically primitive, and secondly it is a safety risk in this toy gun industry that I think is unnecessary and should be done away with, at least as much as possible. The whole premise of using supercaps is to provide a voltage reservoir for surge power during these initial amp spikes. This is needed because these amp spike often exceed the capabilities of the battery (even LiPo) and the batteries drops voltage in response (for milliseconds) and unable to feed all the current needed for this initial spin-up of the motor. In theory, it can achieve the following: Surge power for much more responsive motor, resulting in snappier trigger response. Stabilised voltage supply for full-auto, resulting in better ROF. Protecting batteries from surge currents, prolonging their lifespan and minimise risks of LiPo fire. My evidence and theorisations are as follows. What is the actual energy requirement? To begin to figure out the solution, we need to ask, what is the minimum capacity to be effective? We can analyse these two graphs from airsoftlab.eu for theorycrafting. http://www.airsoftlab.eu/docs/experiments/motor_current/ To figure out the ballpark of energy levels we are talking about, I have picked two cases representative of a high stress build (with a 16 TPA motor) and a more optimal build (with a 28 TPA). The first graph is with 16 TPA motor, SP130, 13:1, to illustrate a typical suboptimal setup with a low torque motor paired with a high stress spring and gear ratio. The second graph is with a more comfortable 28 TPA motor with SP130 and 13:1 to show a more efficient setup. Just by eyeballing the graphs (and the blog), we can character these spikes (and the energy required to tame them) to be about 45A to 60A, for a duration of about 60ms. 16 TPA: 28 TPA: What do the numbers mean? There is a simple answer, and a more complex one. A simplistic way to translate this to farad (the capacity we need), using the 16 TPA setup as example, 60A for 60ms is 3.6 coulomb, which at 11.1V is about 0.324 F. For the 28 TPA example, this would be 2.7 coulomb, at 11.1 V this is 0.243 F. Therefore we can say our ballpark figure is about 0.25 F to 0.33 F as a minimum target. If we are aiming to create a unit that can work with worst case scenario, let's go with 0.33 F. However because supercaps discharge their voltage linearly (meaning their 11.1 V drops down to zero as it discharges over the 60 ms), we can think of it as sharing the workload with the battery in a 1:1 ratio (this is very simplified), meaning it is only doing half of the work while the batteries still need to supply the other half of the current (which is a big improvement already). Here is a prediction: In this predicted scenario, the amp spike seen by the battery should be reduced to less than half, because the supercaps will react faster to supply the spike, but as the supercap runs out of voltage, the battery will notice the difference in voltage and catch up, eventually supplying the full load in full-auto, but at a much improved stability. And as the trigger is released, the current stops, the supercaps are charged up again to battery voltage as the battery recovers from voltage sag. We can offload even more work from the batteries if we multiply the supercap capacity (say 3 times, to 1 F) so the they will perform in a 3:1 relationship i.e. 75% of the work are done by supercaps, which will stabilise the current even more. If we go bigger, say 1.66 F, the ratio will be 5:1, or 83% of work being done by supercaps. (The actual result will probably be better, the ratios e.g. 1:1 at 0.33 F are just conservative notional numbers I made up for ease of explanation. Supercaps are more responsive than batteries, and the overall lowered battery stress should further reduce overall voltage sag, so the battery should see less than 50% of the peak current, but I don't have the equipments to proof this hypothesis.) So let's say our notional baseline is 0.33 F, now we just need to implement this theory. Designing a supercaps unit Here is our goal: 1. Supercaps with total capacity of 0.33 F or more, bigger the better. 2. Voltage should be ok for airsoft usage. (Say a fully charged 11.1 V LiPo is around 12.6 V) 3. Overall size to be small enough to fit in a typical buffer tube, with room for cable management for most cases. Smaller the better. 4. (Bonus feature) built-in safety to drain residue voltage when unplugged. 5. (Bonus feature) LED to indicate presence of voltage. The obvious (and probably the only viable) strategy is to use 3 no. of 5-6 V supercaps in series to give us a 15-18 V headroom for the maximum 12.6 V we are expecting from a fully charged 11.1. The first problem is selection of supercaps. The second problem is designing the whole package that can physically fit inside the buffer tube. Long story short, here is my blueprint: (Just connect the supercaps in series, and then parallel with the batteries, I don't have a drawing) The Eaton supercaps I am using are the highest capacity that can still fit inside a typical buffer tube and wiring, and with one of the better ESR in its class, and can theoretically suffer 115 A of thermals over 60 ms, and tested to MIL-STD 202G for shock and vibration. They are wired (I'm using some fancy SPEC 44 16 awg wires) to a connector that goes between the AEG wire and battery wire, so it is completely plug and play, and removable for safety and for storage. It can in fact be stacked up (if you have multiple units) to give extra performance. For extra safety I have included a bleeder resistor to discharge the residue voltage in maximum 3 hours after it is unplugged. Also for safety (and aesthetics) I added an LED for visual indication of voltage presence. I am tempted to call it the PASTA 1000 (Pseudotectonic Advanced SupercapaciTor Array 1000 mF) but any suggestions welcome. Here is what it looks like in real life: Testing AEG: Specna E-19, completely stock (which has an X-ASR mosfet preinstalled.) Battery: 9.6 V NiMH, fully charged, measuring about 11.32 V when testing. This is just a simple A/B test to see if the supercaps work at all. I will simply alternate between plugging and unplugging the supercaps several times, then take measurements with groups of 6 to 7 shots, until the data are fairly consistent and/or a pattern can be identified. The groups are measured in Audacity and averaged and rounded to nearest millisecond. Also note I am not testing with any magazine inserted because A. that is not going to make massive difference either way and B. it is one less variable to worry about and C. if a BB goes off it is going to affect my measurements with sound. The results: Stock setup (without supercaps), group #1: Trigger response: from trigger action = 83 ms, from motor spin-up = [data missing] ROF: ~17.17 RPS With supercaps, group #1: Trigger response: from trigger action = 81 ms, from motor spin-up = 57 ms ROF: ~17.48 RPS (+1.8%) Stock #2: (I stopped measuring full-auto because it is getting too loud for the neighbours) Trigger response: from trigger action = 96 ms, from motor spin-up = 64 ms With supercaps #2: Trigger response: from trigger action = 74 ms (-23%), from motor spin-up = 62 ms (-3%) Stock #3: Trigger response: from trigger action = 90 ms (+22%), from motor spin-up = 69 ms (+11%) With supercaps #3: Trigger reponse from trigger action = 71 ms (-21%), from motor spin-up = 62 ms (-10%) Stock #4: Trigger response: from trigger action = 84 ms (+18%), from motor spin-up = 68 ms (+10%) With supercaps #4: Trigger response: from trigger action = 76 ms (-10%), from motor spin-up = 62 ms (-9%) Stock #5: Trigger response: from trigger action = 80 ms (+5%), from motor spin-up = 69 ms (+11%) With supercaps #5: Trigger response: from trigger action = 75 ms (-6%), from motor spin-up = 61 ms (-12%) Analysis of results: Definitely a noticeable audio difference in trigger response. The only way to describe it is it sounds more "instant" and there is less of the spin-up whine. I am not sure why the groups vary quite a bit (maybe battery and/or gearbox settling) but I think it is fair to say the supercaps are making a difference. If we average the data after group #3, with supercaps, the overall trigger response is about 14% improved, with the cycling time from motor spin-up is remarkably consistent at about 11% improved. The shorter lag time from trigger action to motor spin-up can be explained by the voltage stability provided by the supercaps. Overall I didn't know what to expect but I would say 14% improved trigger response is pretty good. It is definitely not a negligible difference, and definitely noticeable when compared side by side. But going by feel alone, it definitely feels a bit more snappy. ROF is probably improved a little bit, but more testing needed. The installation: This may be the only draw back. To actually fit the unit inside the buffer tube along with the X-ASR is a massive hassle, which I have to actually remove the original long heat shrink around the three wires to get them to flex, and re-crimp two out of three of the spade connectors to the X-ASR because they were damaged by too much bending. And even when the supercaps are in, it is still very stuck and you need to wrestle the wires to get the battery on and close the butt plate. Although I have done it with the stock fully collapsed and if I install it with the stock a few positions out, it will be easy. Once it's on, it works. But it is definitely not ideal if you have any in-line mosfet like mine. However if you use a proper mosfet inside the gearbox and just have wires in the buffer tube, it should fit very easily, potentially upping the supercaps to 5 F ones for even better trigger response. There is no noticeable sparks or heat or anything when install and in use. It simply lights up when you plug it in and it just works with zero drama. Here is how it looks like installed, with a fully collapsed stock, and without the stock: (it barely fits) To uninstall: If the battery is disconnected with just the supercaps plugged into the gun, the gun will barely able to do one shot and the second shot will be stopped by the mosfet because the voltage will have dropped too low. This is just as expected and fairly consistent with the maths. The LED: When you unplug everything, the LED stays on but slowly dims down over the course of about an hour (just as designed). This shows the draining resistor and the LED are all working as intended. I could also feel zero heat from the resistor, which is great and again matching expectation. The LED still visibly faintly glows even at as low as 2 V so it works perfectly for its purpose as a voltage indicator. The red LED is pretty to look at, although I might change the colour to something like blue or green, because the red can be mistaken as error from the mosfet. I might also move it to the "top" side of the "plug". Conclusion of experiment: The prove of concept is a success. Most importantly there is certainly a performance benefit (14% in my test). All the maths check out. The unit is fully functional and fully match the expectations. It literally is plug-and-play. The installation can be a hassle for wire management but that is purely down to physical space and should not be a problem if you are not using in-line mosfet. Conclusions and speculations More testing is needed with other setups, if you would like one for testing I can make you a copy for a fee. The tech tree can potentially branch into AKs or other platforms or even external compartments, but I don't have any of these for development. Here is a summary of what this device can do. The biggest feature for me is safety, because when the LiPo (or any battery) is shielded from stress they are much less likely to puff up over time and starting a fire. Another key thing is of course the performance. It works very well in my very first little experiment. Electrically the overall voltage floor and current ceiling is improved. Adding supercaps is a bit like transitioning from NiMH to LiPo, but on steroids. There is also where the drawbacks are, because a mosfet is probably a good idea for such power, and if you want to collapse the butt stock you will need a more advanced mosfet that sits inside the gearbox rather than the buffer tube, for cable management reasons. (If you copy what I did you will risk breaking some wires) In terms of use cases, it will benefit NiMH the most because the performance is suddenly brought closer to that of LiPo because the performance gap is effectively closed, making NiMH a viable option again. In fact it makes NiMH better than LiPo because NiMH is much safer. This is also a must if you are chasing the state-of-the-art trigger response or battery efficiency in any build. It will also help with cold weather performance. And the best thing is, this is essentially a "free upgrade" because it is an entirely new component added to the system, it does not replace or compete with any existing parts, and it doesn't need any complicated installation, it is literally plug-and-play. The only downside for now is with wire management inside the buffer tube to make room for it. I am not sure if there is enough space for guns other than an M4 but maybe you can find creative ways to fit it e.g. longer wires. This can potentially benefit rental fleets because it is the easiest upgrade possible with zero overhead on tech, plus it makes your NiMH or LiPo inventory much safer and longer lasting. The savings in overhead for battery management could be worth the investment. And when a gun dies you can very easily transplant it to the replacement gun. In theory, you can actually stack multiple units for extra performance (the only problem is finding the space to put them). Conclusion is, and I am probably biased, supercaps could be the next best thing in airsoft. If the space problem can be resolved. Please do comment if you spot any issues in the theory or in the blueprint. Thank you for reading.

SO SRS! Was a bloody great day, and I finally played instead of marshalling, for the first time since the end of july! Some really great fun, with Santas Vs Elves, an AMAZING lunch of Chicken, mash, sprouts, carrots, yorkies, pigs in blankets, and delicious gravy, followed by mince pies, hot chocolate and mulled wine. Was knackered after lunch, cos I'm an old git, so went back to marshalling and live streaming to the facebook group. The only downside to the day was @Lozart being there Here's both the live streams in one youtube version. Crappy quality, cos I was streaming from my phone in a wood in the middle of nowhere. Some funny business at the begining, or skip to 30:30 for mortar fun.

Happy to help... now to find you a proper bipod.

Finally got the look I wanted for the l85 thanks to @gavinkempselland @MandalShArK. Bought an "Elcanish", then a small red dot. I had to re thread the holes on the mounting plate to accept something recognisable, but that wasn't a chore. Bought a kill killflash too which works better than I expected. Will do some festive fettling looking forward to the new year.

With the lad being back from university, we went to Airsoft Plantation's Christmas Shoot today. With around 200 players present the site was busy, with a fair number of players dressing for the occasion. In the first game we, the red team, had to kidnap the other team's players in fancy dress from the village and get them back to our regen, gaining a point for each such player captured. Regular blue team players (those not in fancy dress) had two lives while we had infinite regens on the Firebreak. A group of us set off on a wide flanking manoeuvre and fought our way into the village in the face of stiff resistance. The lad got an excellent grenade kill on three chaps in a structure just before the grenade they lobbed at him went off. It was wonderful mayhem, during which we wiped out the defenders and captured a number of fancy dressed folk.. This game was then reversed and we decided to defend against anyone repeating our tactic. Having been hit, we fell back and defended against Blues who had captured the suburbs and were trying to push into the village from that direction. I was hit again just before the end of the game; the attackers were still trying to break into the village when the game ended. The next game involved collecting presents that Santa had deposited all over the very large site; some could only be collected by the red team, some only by the blue team and others by either team. The blue team apparently decided that the best way to win the game was to capture our repository at the DEA base so that we could not get any presents there; they sent a large force to do this, which they succeeding in doing after our players had transported several presents there. However, this seriously weakened their present collection team and they failed to collect enough, so we still won the game. During the latter part of this game, the MPi-KM started misbehaving so my contribution to shooting people was limited. Lunch followed, including a raffle with some rather good prizes including three pistols and several packs of pyro. We had ten tickets; two prizes went to players with numbers one lower and one higher than ours :(. After lunch, during which the catering van provided a proper Christmas dinner for around 140 of the players, we had to defend the mortar pits against the blue team; three presents were located in the pits and they had to get a pyro to each of them in turn and blow them up. However, only players in fancy dress could transport and use pyro. Attackers had infinite regens while defenders had two lives. The lad and I, with me now using my somewhat underpowered but long ranged MPi-AK-74N, which I had just finished building, started off in a favoured forward location, from where we put up a stiff fight before being hit. After falling back, the lad was shot by some of our own players, who seemed to think that a player facing the same way as them and shooting at the enemy must be an enemy. I fought on longer, potting attackers who were trying to mass behind the comms truck, before finally being hit. In the return of this, played in rapidly diminishing light, we attacked via the comms truck, with the lad carrying out a solitary charge with a pistol, and then getting down on his belt buckle and crawling along behind a berm like the trained semi-professional and Cambrian Patrol silver medal winner that he is. The game ended soon after this. It was a really good, fun day and it was good for the two of us to fight together again; we hope to get at least one more day in before he returns to university in January. On arriving home, I changed the spring in the MPi-AK-74N, which is now shooting at a pleasant 1J. I then decided to test the MPi-KM, which seemed to be running perfectly again! Weapons used: Me: CYMA based MPi-KM CYMA based MPi-AK-74N Cybergun M1911 Railgun (CO2) The lad: G&G C7A2 G&G GR4 G26 ASG Commander XP18 (CO2)

I'm going to do this review slightly differnetly from normal. Usually I'd take the AEG to bits and talk about the good and bad parts but there are plenty of youtube videos out there comparing the GBLS to other platforms and very little on what it is like to use one. I'll cover the elephant in the room, the price, later on in the review and give my thoughts. So this is my GBLS and I bought the budget/skeleton kit for a couple of reasons. As much as the full rifle is nice I was never going to keep the supplied rail and was probably always going to make my own verison (Mk18 ish in my case however this might change to a MK16 or L119A2 depending on what I finally settle on). If you have been living under a rock a little bit about what the GBLS is might help..or not. It's not a GBB rifle but it uses a similar design, it's not really a typical AEG but it uses a similar design. Confused? Well the closest thing to it would probably be the TOP M4 shell ejecting M4 but the GBLS doesn't eject shells. Inside the lower receiver you will find the gearbox and in the pistol grip is the motor. In the upper receiver you will find full sized bolt. Inside the bolt is the piston head and spring. The way it works is you pull the charging handle to the rear and when you release it it pushes the bolt forward and chambers a BB in the hop unit. You pull the trigger and this releases the compressed spring which pushes air out the front of the bolt propelling the BB out the barrel. At the same time the gearbox kicks in and cycles the bolt again and loads another BB. If set to semi it does this once. If set to auto it does that until every BB is fired out the magazine and the bolt locks in the rear position and you then take out the mag, replace with a fresh mag and hit the bolt release which loads a BB in the hop. I'm going to be aiming these next comments to people who have been skirmishing a while and use PTW's, GBB's and NGRS's. You know that way on a PTW you can get a quick double tap off quickly and both BB's will mostly likely hit the target. On the GBLS that's not going to happen. Well it will but you are going to have to train with it to get a grip with the recoil as after the first cycle of the bolt your aim will be off by quite a bit. You know the way when you full auto a GBB rifle and the FPS drops about 30 or 40 from the first shot to the 35th shot. Yeah that doesn't happen. The FPS is consistant from BB 1 to BB 60. You know that sound and slight recoil you get when you fire a NGRS well that doesn't happen. You get a very nice kick and quite a loud sound as the bolt slams forward. I'm not having a go at these other platforms as I have them all and enjoy them but the GBLS is just a bit different and in a good way. I'll do a few more comparisons to the other platforms so that the more experienced players get where I'm coming from. On the GBB it's great to have the bolt lock back making you do a mag swap, slap the bolt release and get back in the game. When I run a GBB (MWS, GHK, VFC, or any of the others I run) I'm always concerned that the gas I'm using which was under the site limits at the start of the day is now pushing the BB's above the site limit because it's now the afternoon and it's 10 degrees hotter. I'm also concerned that in the colder months in the UK I'm not getting the best from the platform because it's cold so tend not to use them. The GBLS gives me the mag swaps and the recoil I get from my GBB's but at a consistant FPS the whole year. The recoil is probably just as good as my MWS running sub 350 FPS and if there is a difference it's hardly noticable. On the PTW or a NGRS with a Titan fitted I get some nice snappy shots off. I don't get this on the GBLS. My first shot is snappy and on target but the 2nd shot will need adjusting (GBB people will know what I'm talking about). On the GBLS the trigger pull feels very real. I've heard that the trigger pull was about 10 lb but mine seems to be about 8. It feels very realistic with a nice break and reset. It feels more realistic than my GBB's never mind the PTW and NGRS. My opinion at the moment is the GBLS DAS is more realistic than a PTW or NGRS and more reliable than a GBB. Before I move on to price I'll mention the following. I ordered 2 Nupol 11.1V 30C Lipoi batteries as I thought the GBLS might eat through a battery since it's shifting the heavy bolt back and forward. I used 16 full mags today on 1 battery and there is still plenty of juice left in it so it doesn't seem to be current hungry. I had zero jams, stoppages or feeding problems with the 8 mags I used (although I did loose one somewhere along with a Glock 19 but thats another story!). I took it out the box, set the hop with 0.3g blaster BB's and was easily hitting 55 meters with accuracy and the FPS is running at around 320 (on a 0.2g BB). To be clear I have done nothing to it, straight out the box if fires flawlessly and that leads into the price. So £1350 for a toy gun is quite excessive or is it? Let's have a look at the other toys out there. Let's start with the GBB as this is probably the cheapest platform when comparing it to the rest unless you look at the running costs over a long period of time. So a MWS is around £500 then you add 7 more mags at £45 a pop. Let's also remember that carrying 8 BGG mags is a chore as they weigh a ton. Let's say you want to get the best range out to 55/60 meters so you might chuck in a tightbore and maple leaf rubber and possibly a NPAS to control the FPS. So you are probably looking at about a grand now. TM NGRS can be a bit of a money pit when it comes to getting the best out of them. £550 for the AEG, £150 for the titan, 8 mags at £25 each, tightbore, S hop, new spring and spring guide and possibly reinforced gears to replace the soft TM gears. We are probably at around £1200 now. PTW's are anywhere from £1200 to £2000 depending on the model you buy but then you have spare mags, possibly get the hop sorted, have the electrics waterproofed and then maybe have the motor rewired. God knows the final price of a full tuned PTW. I hate to think how much I've spent over the years on them. At this point you might be seeing the point I'm trying to make. £1350 plus £35 a mag doesn't seem that expensive when you don't have to upgrade/replace/rewire anything and it justs works as advertised out the box and is more realisitc and reliably than the other platforms. Are there any negatives? I know of 1 and heard of another but never experienced it. The electronic board in the gearbox doesn't like to get wet or so I have heard. Tell me a titan or Systema board that does. My only slight gripe is the metal mags rattle a bit inside the magwell. This is genuinely the only negative I could find with the GBLS. Is it the best airsoft gun in the world? well no but it is the most reliably realistic one out there and it's very much a nice experience using it. I'll finish this review of with a couple of notes. I handed it to about 10 team mates today and everyone had a stupid smile on their face after that first shot. I think a few AEG's will be getting sold off shortly to fund a GBLS. I'm probably going to be one of the ones selling other AEG's as I see that there is now a HK 416 GBLS. I'm not in anyway associated with GBLS but if you want to send me the steel bolt and Type B buffer I'm not going to get upset. Just saying.

https://www.taiwangun.com/machine-gun-aeg/we23-s-rotary-minigun-style-replica-well Hideous, but has the potential to be the ultimate meme RIF. I'm thinking of buying one with my airsoft mate. https://www.taiwangun.com/drum-magazine-aeg/1200rd-magazine-or-the-we23-s-minigun-well Here's a breakdown video where some clever technical solutions are done.. All I need to figure out is how to fine tune the energy output (says it comes out at 0.78J, may bring it to the 0.9/0.95J region) and how to make the plastic sleeve/cam track sturdier.

As far as I know all AEG MP5's have polymer lowers. I think your best option for your budget is the CYMA blue which is a good performer. EDIT: This looks good CYMA MP5 CM.041J (davescustomairsoft.co.uk)

My wife wants a 'spa-day' for Xmas. I'll tell her it's pronounced 'spade' when she unwraps it next week.

Just got a new job as a waiter, it’s not great, but it puts food on the table.

I would love to blanket ban certain countries where all this spam is originating from. However, they tend to use VPNs which means it is not as simple. Something for the root admin to work on.

I agree but then they'll probably start posting in existing threads. So any post by a new user would need approval which is probably just as much or even more work for the admins.

Well, at least they've moved on from drugs....🙄

https://www.usedairsoft.co.uk/rif-s/gas-powered_1/new-action-army-aap-01c_i55193 £100 collected only. "Brand new" but no warranty, or... £92 brand new with warranty, directly to your door from patrolbase.

That's a lot of money for something so hideously fugly🤢

.... I'm still waiting on my first commission cheque The bastards

I have a pop out one somewhere. But it's more a melee side arm

Last game of the year at Killzone Airsoft today! I turned up after lunch as I'm on nights. Fully KMCS'd up because I know you guys like that! Ran my MK23 and TM skirmish hi capa both with MP5 primary adapters. I ran dual lines so I could be a pain in the arse and be super sneaky and then switch to my hi capa for objective pushing! Was a fun day! Mainly did it because I have very little free time and miss playing CQB!

For a second, I saw the front grip and thought you had somehow bullpup'd a bullpup! Very nice!

it's a standardish AR hop you could go CA https://www.bespokeairsoft.co.uk/classic-army-m4-m16-hop-up-chamber-p037 or ZCI plastic hops are decent.

Real Steel day today - had a good run too with decent stands. The ol' man was not having such a good day despite getting a two for one shot on his very first Pull. One stand had a low flying incomer that had its black underbelly facing you as it came out of the shade - so he had no chance with is ropery vision and was shooting the grass ten feet in front of him. His new shooting name is "Weed Whacker". LOL. Ended up beating him by 7 shots. 😎

Internals are decent enough - full strip down here:

All looking forward to the annual Xmas game at Ironsight Airsoft, 30 minutes in and my DMR shat itself, I think a stripped gear 😭 Still, a good day with my AEG, loads of my son's friends were there so he had a great time, and a great way to end the airsoft year.

How’s zat?

If you want all metal, here's a cheap alternative hi capa that I've not heard anything about ... https://www.actionhobbies.co.uk/products/ec-5-1-hi-capa-gas-blowback-airsoft-pistol-black/ Absolutely no idea if they're any good, we need someone to be a guinea pig 😄

Definitely one to skip then. I pay my game fees to play, not sit around in the safezone chatting shit

I’ve not been able to get an appointment at the surgery for six months, but I saw my doctor on Tuesday and showed him my haemorrhoids. However, he just ignored me and continued pushing his shopping trolley.🤪

If you’re looking at the higher level Specnas, note that its only the Edge 2.0 models that come with a proper Gate Aster mosfet (this gives you all the nice features like active braking, pre-cocking, programmability etc). These start around the £250ish mark. The standard Edge models have an X-ASR, which is essentially nothing more than an electronic trigger contact. It has no extra features or configurable options. They come in some nice bodies but arguably aren’t going to perform any better than the £90 Flex that Fire-Support are selling. My choice when I had this dilemma earlier this year was the Double Eagle M906C. It has their Falcon mosfet in it. Not as advanced as the Specna’s Gate Aster, but it is programmable and has all the features I need. Its been rock solid over many games and thousands of rounds fired. I bought it thinking I’d upgrade to something better, but its dawned on me that in AEG terms at least there aren’t many more gains to be made. This and the rest of Double Eagle’s Falcon equipped models all hover around the £180-£200 mark. Would definitely shortlist them next to the Specnas. PPE wise, you’ll prob have to experiment a bit. The revelation for me were Revision Anti Fog wipes. I now use relatively cheap and comfortable Bolle eyepro, these would normally steam up very easily but the Revision wipes keep 90% of it at bay.

Cheap but decent batteries can be had here... https://hobbyking.com/en_us/lifestyle/airsoft/airsoft-batteries.html You'll probably want a couple of Turnigy 7.4v LiPos for each Specna to keep you going through a whole day

Yea, when you start min maxing it's clear you are in small gains territory. Unless you can find quality bearings you are just guessing. Bushings are easy to make consistently and wear rather than fail, as are happy with loads that aren't rotational ( read side to side). Bearings, whilst efficient, have issues with loads that aren't rotational and are complicated to make. Air soft gears also tend to have variable shaft diameters which batters the bearings as the shafts wobble about. Decent cages are essential to keep the balls in place. Stainless bushings are essentially metal on metal, impregnated bushings like phosphor bronze self lube to a degree. Lubricating bushings is largely a waste of time unless you regularly relube them. Bearings are very quiet and efficient ( if you lube them correctly), shielded bearings will come lubed and you shouldn't have to touch them again. Open bearings require at least the same attention that bushings do, but they wear slowly and at low loads often don't need any lube ( lube for airsoft) Gearboxes are very quiet with bearings and it does make it noticeable when they wear, and they will keep the gears in place better than bushings as they wear. If you can fit 3mm deep bearings you are raising the load ability quite a bit and if you actually service your gun regularly you can keep the bearings in good condition. For airsoft in the UK, with our low powers and soft springs a bearing should be fine... but as Psuedo says with all the variables bushings are more reliable. If you build your gun well, use decent parts with decent tolerances, service it, which might only be some correct lube in the bearings and can detect wear before the bearing cages give way you can use bearings... I do. But I also build with bearings in the fast bits and bushings for the sector gear. If you just shoot your gun, bushings only is probably better in that case. The one thing I would say is that bearing failure is rare, they wear for sure, but failure requires the cages to collapse, which requires either a lot of wear to allow the balls to move, or uncharacteristic loads on the bearing. But quality, installation, servicing etc etc ...

I didn't. His only posts are sales posts (both of which are Mack's material) and has made no effort to bring anything to the forum so is fair game for a piss taking Edit: especially as he listed things as extras which come with the gun anyway

Fire-Support have had loads of money out of me over the years (probably tipping into the several thousands now) and I've not had any problems. They are one of the oldest airsoft retailers in UK.

It's not a license 🤯

Just filled in the paperwork for my UKARA. Exactly 56 days between the first three games! How's that for good planning?

I've taken pity on the chap and told him what he should actually be asking. I await the "I noew wut its wurth all day long m8".

Mine is called Kim Kardashian as it's mostly plastic

couldn’t resist adding one of these to the GBBR collection

New gun day! TM AKX - a lot of fun 😎

Didn't have an airsoft day as such, but spent a solid 8 or 9 hours helping Carlos with the new CQB site. We were building a structure all day - well one side of it anyway - and forgot to stop for lunch. Good discussions and stories exchanged as well as talking about what types of games to play in the new place as well as a different kind of "warm up" game for the regular site. Poor chap has a lot of work ahead of him to be ready for the opening next year, so I hope the regulars of Special Ops appreciate the effort and money he's putting into it when it opens. He has a model of the final layout showing a good mix of buildings and open areas, so, even though I'm not a great CQB person, I think this will have something for everyone except Bush Wookies and DMRs. Looking forward to some pistol and shotgun games. Plus it's slightly nearer my gaff too.

Second hand Cyma (metal and wood version) AKMSU, with a butt load of upgrades including a Warhead. Owner offered me a dong foregrip with it, but I like the one on it. Shooting like a dream, he was only selling it as he needs the money 🙁 I'll probably field it this Sunday for the annual Santasoft game.

I'm the proud owner of a brand new TM M4A1 MWS GBBR and it's gorgeous! Slapped a EO tech and an old-school foregrip on it and it brings back memories of CoD! Got it on sale for £450 so super happy with it!

You have to wear the the glasses and acorn style beanie when using it though or it doesn’t count.

Sorry to bore you all again haha Finally an updated family photo of my British Forces weapons. picture 1 Column 1 L115A3 L86A2 L85A2 / L123A2 UGL L85A2 TES L85A2 (3para 2009) L22A2 pistols L9A1 MK2 Browning L105A1 (SAS CRW) L105A2 ( UOR P226) L131A1 (gen 4 glock) Column 2 L108A1 (MK1 minimi) L119A1 CQB L119A1 SFW Model 723 Model 715 (SAS GW1) L1A1 SLR Column 3 L7A2 GPMG L100A1 L91A1 (A3) L92A1 (SD) L128A1 combat shotgun L74A1 L1A1 Law 66 Picture 2 L85A2 TES Updated! Swapped my original ICS to this ARES version. Picture 3 L129A1 SHARPSHOOTER Picture 4 Diemaco C7 In use with paras and royal marines. Picture 5 Colt Model 701 seen in use by sas during OP Barras. Picture 6 Colt Model 604 As used in Northern Ireland 70/80's