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New pews together.

Because they are good, but not perfect. More can be squeezed out of them if you really want to. Do the people who buy them and spend £1000 on upgrades get £1000 of extra benefit - well that's a judgement call only the person can make, is the extra 5 metres, or the 5% improvement on the spread of bbs at 50 metres or the slightly higher fps that makes it a touch easier for the person being hit to feel it worth it? for some people it will be, for some people they'd rather move an extra 5-10 metres. NGRS are lovely to work on compared with a standard version 2 gear box (putting them back together is much easier!), the tolerances of TM stuff is very consistent and reliable compared with some other airsoft brands. Some love the recoil, I love the bolt stop, pretty cool features that were exclusive to the NGRS system. They do have their faults though, mainly lower FPS but that's because they are made for the japanese market, not the west with our higher FPS requirements. Because of this the gears are perfect for the lower fps, but understandably fail when you just wack in a bigger spring. I know that when you've spent £100 doing an event, it's your 5th event of the year, each event has an average 6 hour round trip drive, you've just done 2 hours patrolling to do a tasking and get in a contact which you lose and then feel like if you'd had a bit better performance out of your RIF that might have helped change the course of the contact, then I can see the appeal of upgrading and spending big on it.

Lizz Truss wants to outlaw wolf whistling. Yet another politician making laws about things they have no personal experience of...

My Glock 17 FBo lower Guarder slide AW trigger and internals.and outer barrel Maple leaf hop and nub 6.01 barrel Heavy recoil spring Surefire light rep Only pistol ever built from parts had about over time

bought the Bow Master GMF sliding stock for the MP5. It's advertised for VFC GBB and TM EBB MP5's but it needs quite a bit of modification to fit on the TM. If anyone is interested the work involves: grinding the inside of the end cap so that it fits in the slots on either side of the receiver (where the normal MP5 stock usually sits in). drilling out the hole on the end of the end cap to fit a countersunk bolt that holds the end cap into the TM gearbox securely. countersinking this hole so that the stock parts will fit. fitting a 3D spacer so that the end cap sits parallel as without it the stock sits at a slight upward angle. If you have access hand tools, a dremel and a 3D printer then it's an easy job

Granted there some TM models that have been around since the late 90s but they are the cheaper ones. TMs new releases always have some sort of improvement and you are paying for Japanese quality control and development over Chinese sweat shop qc and nicking Japanese designs. Prices have gone up all around and most TM pistols can be had for sub £150 if you go to the right shops

Yeh I get it - I just like to whinge about it....😉

Another cracking shot from our last game in Edinburgh

I was in Land Warrior’s store about 8 weeks ago, the lads in there are regulars at our site and they had just arrived in stock, so they were all over it (especially the bosses custom ceracoted one🤤) My initial impressions, though didn’t get to shoot it The polymer feels beautiful, to a very high standard Finish on the slide is lovely Mags are surprisingly light! Trigger feels awful, if you imagine squeezing a TM Glock trigger, but it’s jammed at the wall, then when it goes, it actually feels like you have snapped something Its supposed to feel like a RS trigger, but I feel it takes a hell of a squeeze to complete the pull, very little feel to it I bought a TM 😉

Internally its staying as it is. Only changes will be external which shouldn't affect performance

Someone with some serious engineering skillz made a functioning Lynx gbbr. Have you ever seen recoil like this (out of a tiny little glock mag no less)?????

As this isn't a "please help with my gun" hopefully I put this in the right place Last week I stumbled on a Western Arms M92 Elite 1A and ended up taking it home, once I got back it was time for stripping cleaning and lubrication, everything went fine until I got to to the right grip panel which was glued in place that's where things got interesting. 1: frame with reinstalled bushing and bottom "screw" [img]https://i.imgur.com/DaWRrUR.jpg[/img] The top screw was spinning freely instead of unscrewing I was able to push it out from the other side where the screw washer and bushing came out in one go. After using pliers to unscrew the bushing I was able to reinstall it witha very careful application of superglue to the hole left behind I then tried to undo the bottom "screw" and what I thought was dirt turned into an "oh... dear" 2: digging into the putty [img]https://i.imgur.com/yd31wxF.jpg[/img] The screw was in fact a blob of modelling putty and as I'd already broken it it was going to have to go, enter the craft knife and lots of careful scraping. 3: the "ring of truth" good riddance [img]https://i.imgur.com/cvCZ488.jpg[/img] Having cleared out the mess I now had a hole to fill while the box had all the paperwork and even the tiny hex keys for adjusting the hop there was no sign of the missing screw and bushing. As WA spares are somewhat hard to find I was going to have to make do. I did have a few slotted M92 grip screws TM spec from Guarder 4: a burry mess showing the modified screw [img]https://i.imgur.com/NRHMqeA.jpg[/img] As the thread on the new screw was thicker than the hole left by the missing bushing I filed it down to a .5mm stub so it can't do any more damage to the frame. After polishing with fine wire wool the new dummy screw fits in to cover the hole and can be popped out from behind if needed. 5: the end result [img]https://i.imgur.com/xJGujv9.jpg[/img] My main aim was not to do more damage so the glued down panel has to stay as I didn't feel using force or solvents was a good idea likewise if I do come across a replacement bushing or screw it can replace the dummy I made up. The end result works fine but unfortunately as the glued panel covers the transfer bar it can't be fully dissambled. Now I just need to find an Elite 1 or 2... Feel free to ask any questions you want Tools used: Flat screwdriver Needlenose pliers Superglue with brush tip Vice Flat file

I had a hen once, who could count her own eggs. She was a mathmachicken. No no I'll do it.🤦

Hi Everyone, You won't know me but I've been an avid Airsofter now for 15+ years. Over that long period of time, I've had the opportunity to play at many different sites across the UK and meet some amazing people. I've been very fortunate to play with and against some awesome Airsofters as well as play at some insane sites. But, recently when someone asked me what I did at the weekend, I had no shame saying I played Airsoft, but that person then said "what's that?" and it got me thinking... "Why don't more people know about Airsoft, this Sport I've come to love, why aren't more people taking part and getting to enjoy it too?".... I then came to realize that although there are hundred, thousands of videos online of Game Plays, Scope Cams, RIF Reviews, but little to none focusing on the sites themselves. Some folks may look online, find a site and think "oh this looks cool but.... is it any good? What's the site like? What will I expect" other than maybe a wall of text on the website or a promo video by the site themselves. And what about those who want to try new sites but maybe want a bit more detail about what to expect from somewhere they've never played before? So I thought "Well, I love Airsoft, I want more people to love Airsoft, so why don't I make some reviews for sites so people can make an informed decision?".... So Here we are. A few weeks back I and a few friends of the thussly named Pew Pew Crew (Non Affiliated to the FB group we now realize exists...) visited RIFT Com's Site 3. And we had a blast. Below is the video of our first ever Site Review. If any of the RIFT crew are on this Forum, thank you for a great game day, it was enjoyed immensely. Please comment on the video or hit me up on Instagram with any constructive criticism. I'm always open to ways we/I can improve the review process (After my Wedding/Honeymoon I'm looking to get a GoPro/Action Camera for better content). At the end of the day, I began making these videos because I love Airsoft and the people I've been fortunate to meet over 15 years of playing (and more years to come hopefully). I Hope others will be influenced in a positive manner by my videos to try it out for themselves or to visit a new site. All the best everyone.

That's correct, well it was when I enquired last time. Any system will need to be paid for one way or another I suppose, it's something I've discussed with the developer before.

it's a hard line to draw as everyone's going to have different standards. eg someone might think a given gun is shit if it can't go 3 more than full mags between gassing in the middle of winter, others might consider anything that can fire it's RS capacity (usually less than the actual capacity) per fill in reasonably rapid order under most conditions good enough. same with longevity, some folks might shoot their holster-filler so rarely that it takes 15 years to accumulate the kind of round count someone else's stockless primary could rack up in a day. certainly whilst i'll admit marui pistols generally trend towards better performance when treated properly, that doesn't mean that other brands are worth discounting depending on what the individuals wants/needs are. as long as people have reasonable expectations then that's all we can do.

@Krisz I’ve tried to destroy a plastic TM capa slide out of morbid curiousity using Guarder Black gas at UK indoor temperatures. The 4.3 slide was fine and the world didn’t end. I wouldn’t recommend doing it long term but I don’t think they’re as fragile as the internet has lead you to believe. Source - I’m pretty passionate about my Hi capas and you can follow some of my builds on my making the Novristch SSP less shameful thread. The people that you’re butting heads with on this forum have used and abused the pews they’re talking about and the advice on here is nothing less than stellar

Yes these are cheap toy guns of course they break. All i can go on experience After 22ish years of playing and owning 100s of gun I find TM break less frequently than other brands and last lot longer before they do. However there will be some one somewhere that has a WE 1911 that has worked flawlessly for 15 years and empties a mag no matter what temperature, stranger things have happened.

Not wrong though. He's spicy, let's keep him.

For clarity, my understanding is that retailers pay for UKARA, not sites. Sites add their players to it, retailers check it to adduce their defence. Granted some sites are also retailers, but I'm talking about pure retailers. If they didn't have to pay for access to check, why would they?

Source: trust me bro. No one questioned TM reliability I said they are overpriced regarding what they offer in 2022. Some of them were designed 20-30 years ago and haven't changed since then. No innovation and yet hefty price tags.

@Rogerborg That should help out site admins at least. I did chat last week to the IT chap I know who's been working on and off on his own airsoft defence system, hopefully he'll have a demo up soon. What I liked most about it was the ability for players to control their own data.

Anyone interested can now sign up for stock notifications here: https://www.tactical-kit.co.uk/f9-gear-ammo-hub-a1-48539-p.asp Stock is due to land on these shores in a few days, should be available to buy next week. No two ways to say it, it'll cost a good bit more than the MkV, a lot of which is due to all the extra hardware that's packaged; including 3 male tubes so your tubes cummerbunds can click right on. There'll be RG and MC, but only just breaking in to double digits of each and unfortunately once they sell out they'll be out of stock here for at least 3-4 months. Apologies if that seems like hype driving, just want to give out the pertinent info as I know there's a few gear lovers out there who are interested. If anyone ever has any questions not covered by the product description please do ask me.

This 👆🏻 We can do it on the spot through the app Registered player gets the confirmation email pretty much immediately Double check your email addy with the site for a typo 👍

I’ve found that I need to go through some of my older posts and delete any pics I have posted But until you do that, I believe if you “screenshot” the image you want to post, it reduces the resolution allowing you to post it up 👍

Actually, I may be good to go. The chrono I was waiting on showed up today. Charged and used. Full gassed mag. KWA green gas. first 5 shots are 306-310 The next 15 rounds were 299 to 295. I will just chrono after the first 5 shots and call it good. LOL Plus I think the kid running the chrono did not know the rules. I had to go back and reread them to make sure. Pretty sure he told me 100' limit on my M27, which would mean it is shooting 500FPS.... I am betting it is max 400. I will chrono everything now, so I will have better game play now, I can storm some buildings.

US sites, they seem to like 1.48J / "400fp" limits for AEGs with a 10' or 20' MED and bang rules, with only pistols to be used for point blanking each other in the face and kicking off IRL fights.

Answers to be found at the bottle of the bottle.

Is it ok to start drinking as soon as the kids are at school.... Or am I really just a bad teacher ?

Finally, after nearly 4 months of planning, prep, selling and saving, my new toy is here from DCA: Double Bell SCAR-H, locked to semi auto, firing at 444-448fps with 0.2s. Prometheus air seal chamber with soft Hop-up bucking Prometheus Flat Tensioner ZCI High Precision 6.02mm Stainless Steel Inner Barrel (extended through silencer) Specwar II silencer Novritsch 1-4×40 low power variable scope Pod Grip foregrip bipod 3 x 150-round VFC midcaps Next step: Upgrade the stop-gap cam.

If its a gun I actually skirmish then I use it normally and I'm happy with any marks it picks up along the way.

My early 90's P226 is slowly getting there. It's a TM with full guarder kit along with a Genuine surefire, genuine early west german grips and a steel replica early rear sight. A few other little bit left to alter, but not looking far off.

Just to throw something else into the blender... Have a look at Jing Gong (JG) offerings. Very good value for money especially if he doesn't mind a polymer body (weight will be more suited to him)

Personally, I think it's the best placard on the market, because obviously I made it do everything I wanted along with various things the Spiritus Mk4 and SHAW ARC V2 didn't do - those being my other favourites when I began prototyping early 2021. The specific laminate fabric used is the best one in existence for a loop-lined placard and is only available via FirstSpear so it is gucci no doubt. A good chunk of the cost is the fact it comes with a set of Tubes which hopefully I'll be able to make optional in future but currently isn't logistically viable. I'll post a link to TK's listing when they get there for sure. Most updates are still here https://www.instagram.com/f9gear_/ and it's still available on thefull9.net for any Americans, French or Swiss who might happen to be reading lol.

Well done you ! I don’t play anymore (might change one day) but I’m still a massive kit pest and have a strong desire for top end and quality cordura goodies , it’s been this way for a long time … I blame my dad who gave me his Cyclops Roc bergan for my 13th birthday … the passion never fades be sure to put some links up , and from someone who’s been self employed for way too long … don’t ever apologise for self promotion , if you are not passionate about it and want to talk about it how are you going to expect anyone else to get excited about it . In my experience with small business or new ideas most people are investing as much in the person behind it as they are the product

This isn't announced anywhere else yet, but I'm happy to say that Tactical-Kit have purchased a small batch from me, so these will finally be available on home turf (in a couple of weeks or so). I set my wholesale price pretty damn low tbh and because they're so light they're relatively cheap to ship in bulk, so while sadly the £ price is higher than the $ one Americans get, it is going to work out in the region of £15-20 cheaper to buy from TK than to pay the shipping and import taxes yourself if you ship the Hub alone, which overall I think is a decent result considering the distance from the sewing machine to a shop England. They only exist in MC and RG so far but hopefully that will cater to the majority, if they sell well then other colours may come to TK over the course of the next year or so, depending what they want to buy from me. Obviously for a placard this is the top end of the market and if you don't run a Tubes'd up rig/G-Hook PC/762 AK I wouldn't blame a soul for getting the Spiritus Mk5 instead which is bloody close in terms of quality, but if you want those Tubes and absolute maximum modularity from a British company (military owned, if that is something you're in to), then maybe take a look.

Are you new here? In all seriousness though, while that's a dangerous assumption to make with ANY airsoft parts, that bit should work but don't be surprised if it doesn't. You could replace the handguard with a free float style one and then you're just looking at whether or not you want a dummy gas block.

This x1000000000000000 Chronos should be mandatory kit for HPA users. Why would anyone drop a huge wedge of cash on an HPA setup and not £50-£60 on a chrono is beyond my limited comprehension.

Tried something new other than the usual 1911 stuff over the weekend and prepped my TM G18C frame before stippling. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- The initial idea behind this build was strictly "form follows function", where everything on it would serve some sort of utilitarian purpose. Eventually that approach skewed into adding all the tactical accoutrements that I see in the airsoft & real-steel community. The end-goal now is to have it so ridiculously Gucci'd-out that it looks like something out of a sci-fi film. Started by removing finger grooves. Used 120 grit sandpaper with a hard sanding block. Didn't bother going any higher than 120 since the frame will be stippled anyway. I don't have a dremel tool so taped off parts to minimize scratches from filing/sanding. The frame is a Guarder aftermarket part for a gen 3 G17. Thumb rests also removed Couldn't really take too many pics of the process as I was covered in black nylon fiber powder most of the time. Here's some of the modifications and the reasoning behind them. Finger grooves removed and undercut triggerguard: Rolled up some 120 grit on a hammer handle and hand sanded, adding a chamfering bevel on each side afterwards. Surprised how much of a difference this makes. You can grip so much higher on the gun almost to the point where your grip angle changes. If you had to do just one mod I would recommend the undercut. Some RS shops seem to polish this part to a mirror finish but I just left it gritty as it might cause blisters if too smooth. Thumb rest removal and mag release scallop. I've seen these mods on some of the higher end Glocks that come out of custom shops and such. However, unlike the RS frames, airsoft frames don't seem to have enough thickness in this area create a deep enough scallop for any meaningful difference. It does make the mag release a bit easier to reach without breaking my extra-medium sized grip, but wish I could cut out a little more. Will probably add a border when stippling to make the scallop stand out a bit more visually. Some RS examples of "scallops". Tried to copy the round style of the ATEI G19 (leftmost photo). Note how much deeper the scallop cut is. Airsoft frames don't have much material here. Internals and short-stroking: The build started off with making sure everything that reciprocates is as light and frictionless as possible, while anything that doesn't is as heavy as possible. All the lower parts and the hop up are steel/stainless, while the moving parts are more weight-conscious (7075 slide, lightweight BBU with polymer backplate, non-tilting outer barrel, etc.). While this makes the cycling speed akin to the plastic stock version, I really wanted something faster, something that would go brrrrrrt on regular 144a gas- so I short stroked it like a madman. Filed back the slide stop ~14mm to allow it to lock back while short stroked. Image below shows the difference in travel compared to stock. The only concern is the slide itself slightly thinner in this area than where the notch used to be. Fingers crossed it holds up; but if it doesn't I'll just short stroke it some more🙃 Some ideas I'm playing with for the next steps. I really want to go all-in with the weight reduction concept and mill out some slide windows that agree with the general design language of the gun. It'll probably only save about 5 grams but would still look pretty good. They would also serve as forward cocking serrations since the selector switch doesn't really provide a comfortable grip to rack the slide. Which one do you prefer : (A) moderate and matching with the top port or (B) full length ports all the way to the chamber ? By the way, does anyone have any recommendations for stippling services? Looking for some place that does laser stippling or soldering. Not really confident that I'll be able to create clean borders doing it myself.

More of a mini jigsaw puzzle than custom but the only TM part of this TM G19 is the magazine body 😛

Terms: P* (Polarstar), OOTB (out of the box), DI (Drop In), CR (Cylinder Replacement), MC (Mancraft), W (Wolverine), ME (Mechanical), FE (Fusion Engine) So Im in the US, which means HPA is far more common and available. As far as I know I have used quite literally every HPA system out there, barring a few unique or uninteresting ones to me (Russian "bear", Im looking at you). Daytona, Escort (pre-Daytona), W Inferno, Reaper, Reaper M, SMP, Hydra, Bolt, Bolt M, P* FE v2, FE v3, FE 249, Jack, F1, F2, Valken v12, Tapp HPA adapters, CQBRussian HPA taps, custom one-off HPAs, Redline engines, MC sDiKs, and probably a few others Ive forgotten. Ones I havent used include the P* Kythera, Redline MilSim, the aforementioned Russian "bear" (aka MedVed), and as stated single-gun engines like the old JACs. P* is, by far, my favorite for a few reasons. First, LCD FCUs. Wolverine engines are a PITA to adjust to exactly what you want - the older versions using two screwdriver dials, and the newer having an extremely basic FCU with lights to show settings. P* is all written out on an LCD screen, like a calculator screen. Second, are FEs. The only true drop in and go engines (besides the v12, but we dont talk about the v12) means you can keep your AEG gearbox together for a rainy day, to shove into another gun, or to use as spare parts. The F2 has the power of the FE but is a CR engine, like almost everything else on this list bar the Daytonas. Basically this means it uses your old gearbox. Closely following this is the Wolverine Reaper. While Ive found the F2 to be an easier drop in, theres no denying how quiet and air-efficient you can make this top of the line wolverine engine. If the FCU was better OOTB it would be neck and neck with the F2, and if Id not had to work so hard to get Reapers to work well in some odd guns itd be ahead of the F2. W then makes an interesting engine - the Hydra. The Hydra is made for all those offset nozzle guns. Im not a huge fan of the engine itself, having not-great experiences with it in my P90, but if you have an offset gun and dont want to design an entirely new gearbox (something I have done a time or two) its your best option. P* has made offset nozzles for the F2, but they arent too common (still looking for a PDR-C nozzle...). A few notes about some of the other engines. The V12 is trash. Easily the worst HPA system out there and not worth looking at. The Jack is the worst engine that is actually worth the time to install in your gun. Personally Id avoid it if you can. The only one I still own is in my Marui MP7, as thats literally the only engine that will fit in it. The F1 is just a closed-bolt Jack. Daytonas are extremely fun, but some of the most time-intensive, expensive, inaccurate, PITA to work on systems out there. When they work its cleanup on aisle everyone-on-the-field's pants, but they are just such a hassle. I dont put much stock in the ME systems like the Kythera, Reaper M, or Redline MilSim as I dont run many DMRs - though the option to forgo a battery entirely is awesome if you will never go auto. If I didnt always run LMG or SMG at MilSims Id probably have a few of these engines installed over the many FEs, F2s, and various W engines I do have. Now, since you didnt mention what gun I will go ahead and talk about the bolties. You have two main options - W and MC. W has the two Bolts, while MC has the sDiKs. Bolt is the older model that uses a battery, Bolt M is ME and doesnt use a battery. I have a Bolt in my VSR and its great. A real ninja converter of an engine, I can be audibly invisible 20 feet from a person with a good foam suppressor. The sDiKs are sorta like the Hydra to me - they are available for tons more oddball bolties, but I could never get the performance out of them, their installs are odd and have weird placement (like my MSR wanting the hose to go out the trigger?!), and they just seem clunkier than the Bolts. All in all I probably currently own some 25+ HPA guns of various makes and manufactures. Some notable ones are my Inferno PKM, FE 249, Daytona MG36, L85, and M27, Bolt VSR, Jack MP7, FE PP-91 (see the "Mosquito' thread on here), F2 L86, F2 AUG HBAR, and F2 G28LE/417A2. I am happy to say more about certain engines if you wish. You will also - regardless of what engine you get - need a good tank and regulator to run said gun. HPA is expensive to get into, but IMO needs far less effort to tune, and breaks far less than AEGs. That being said I keep a steady supply of HPA, AEG, and even spring guns in my collection, so I can use whatever happens to strike my fancy on a particular game day.

I'm a foreigner I can't be racist. 🤨