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My current bolt action rifles. First is 490fps, the small one is 340.

No such thing as an out of the box DMR. You need to buy a base AEG/GBB and spend a lot of cash upgrading it. It's easier to do with a GBBR but you will have a lot of temperature inconsistencies, unless you use an HPA system like Polarstar (expensive) Daytona Gun (also expensive) or the Wolverine SMP. If you're going to use that as a base gun, see if you can buy it without all of the accessories. You're better off spending the extra cash on internal parts. Chances are that the accessories are more expensive in that package than they are when purchased individually.

I'm another one that wants a G3, got a friend that has a TM G3 with a metal body kit, looks awesome and doesn't creak!! Also does anybody know whats happening with TM HK45? I want one but they are all out of stock everywhere, last I heard they are having issues with the trades. Here's my heavily modified TM MP5K

Extra ooomph you say? HK51B - beefed-up MP5-ish body belt-fed 7.62.

My latest project for me to use in milsims is an affordable equivalent to the Go-Ped Knightrider which is used by the military to get special forces or airborne troops to the front line. My version matches the Go-peds speed (19-20mph) although its range is only about half at 12 miles. Both are foldable and can be vehicle transportable or air droppable. The tactical Go-Ped has Lithium Ion Polymer batteries which makes it a little lighter at 30Kg total weight (Mine came with Sealed Lead Acid batteries and weighs 40Kg with the batteries onboard).

My rifles are all around 3.5kg and my LMG is 4.5 or so with the box magazine added. I wouldn't be keen on lugging a 6kg+ gun around all day and I doubt I'd be able to run flat out with one like I could with my M63, which is a big part of the reason I chose it over other support weapons.

My G&P M249 (no addons) weighs 6.5kg, just weighed it. the box mag only weighs 0.53kg empty, so 6.6kg overall before stuff added. My Inokatsu GPMG on the other hand weighs in at a massive 10.3kg without anything added. 24kg with tripod, scope, ammo tin.

If I was going to build a DMR, I would start with a cheaper but decent rifle as you're going to be upgrading the internals anyway. Something like a Cyma M14 maybe? this will not break the bank and will leave you plenty of money for upgrades.

Just seems mad that a airsoft gun weighs the same as a real one

Have a look at this eBayer's stuff. I dunno if you know, but there were differences between bits of gear that you would imagine were generic across the whole Red Army - for eg VDV (paratroopers) carried a 4 cell AK mag pouch rather than the army's 3 cell, plus a plastic 1.5L water bottle & cup in a handy pouch rather than the army's 0.75L aluminium canteen in a pouch which is a right pain in the hole... What are you still looking for and what size are you?

mines about 10lbs but that's what you get when your gun is as solid as a Russian tank.

Really !? the FN Minimi is 8.5kg without ammo !!!

My new Ak74 weighs 3.6kg with no attachments.

Can we find a student somewhere wanting to research ballistics for his/her PHD? Could get all this sorted for us!!

My M249 is close to 8kg with a full magazine.

2kg polymer 4kg full pot metal tbh it is the bloke wielding it - moi... That could do with losing a bit of weight

Just bought an E&L Ak74 second hand but pretty much unused. £240 It weighs a tone. Even more than the l85 I just sold. Just waiting for more bits for my Soviet loadout.

I believe they're not allowed to use H&K trades (hence their new USP Compact has a different name and no trades). I think Wolf Armouries has some in stock, failing that you can still get them imported from Echigoya.

I do like a bit o MP5K, nearly bought two. And a trench coat. And shades. Lack of kung-fu and blind-fire rules prevented me.

Once took out twelve people with a Grenade at Urban Assault. Unfortunately I was one of them and the other 11 were all on my team bloody thing sparked up in my pocket and exploded blowing the leg pocket off and set fire to my combats. Luckily everyone was to busy laughing at my epic dance moves trying to extinguish my trousers they forgot to linch me.so one free grenade got the blue team 12 kills that's got to be efficient.

Ics Cxp hog or ape for that price.

Flash is all good, but it's virtual footage, and I think the suggestion was based around seeing exactly how it actually ends up all smacking together, to examine timing issues etc.

£350 takes you out of the ICS/G&G £150-£200 leagues. I'd say just pick a gun type you like the look of and get the Tokyo Marui version of it, they're the godfathers of modern airsoft guns. There's lots of exotic options for that cash, but for a first gun you can't beat a bit o Marui, as it'll be a stable foundation to build your collection from, and will probably never break unless you give it a helping drop/kick. It's a gun you'd not really need to upgrade ever, perhaps buy it with a stronger spring installed or treat yourself to a higher quality barrel, but that's about it. If you're picking a gun type you've not held before i'd recommend going to an airsoft store to give it a feel, even if you buy from elsewhere.

I was the last one in a building and I stepped outside as the opposing team overrun it. My team has already taken positions in the next building but they didn't know I held mine that long so I couldn't go that way. I would have been 100% lit up by them. So I just stepped behind the door. The enemy players passed me without looking, focusing on the next building - out of range. I pulled my pistol, aimed... nothing. I forgot to put the mag in after the safe zone. So I just double tapped them with the pdw, one by one, and they just kept coming. Luckily a marshal appeared and told everyone to take the hit because people tend not to do that if it comes from behind where they don't suspect an enemy. I kept shooting them for minutes, some even bled out until someone decided to check behind the door. I got about 20 of them by then. I got a fist-bump from the marshal after that. There is the door on the right and there are at least 5 people on the right not on the picture. Some even tried to medic others.

Might as well buy a Tokyo Marui fan mask if you're willing to spent close to 3 figures. I've got one the fans clear the fog well, and aren't too noisy.

Yeh, it was a bit long winded. In summary for everyone (from what was said in the videos): clean with isopropyl alcohol apply thin layer of silicone to make surface 'more slippery' before cleaning off don't get silicone anywhere near your hop up rubber as it will warp it or - at the very least - provide less traction on the BB as it passes over it (resulting in less spin) It's definitely the HSA chap talking, so I guess he's worth his salt.

They aren't cheap, and the mags make it worse. I got really lucky with mine due to some kindness from Hef Legend on here, so we will have to see

I've given out stuff before; I still have about 10k .12g bbs from my ol backyard springer days that I only use in my s thunder. I give those out like candy from Krieger's van. In my one airsoft video on my YouTube channel I also give a guy my G17 as his g36 was out of ammo

I'm on the side of the soft hearted charitable nitwits, even after experience to the contrary... I've often thrown a pistol or nade to someone - if I'm shot out of the last game on a night with no more respawn, I generally give any unused gear to players still in the fight (nades etc)... have even given it to chaps on the opposing team. Generally this has proven nothing but a positive experience - starts a conversation when they return kit in the safe zone etc. However, recently, my brother did the same - tossed a pistol to a rental he was stuck in a tight corner with, and the chap promptly wrapped it in his jacket and went home with it! ....I still think I'd loan my gear out though. Call me a fool .

Dont think about any of that yet. Go play a few sites woodland and CQB. If you like it then get your UKARA then start looking at kit. No one can give you advice on what to get because you dont know how you want to play yet.

As others have said the GBB version is a cracking gun.

Simple answer..........YES. I have the GBB and it's bloody fantastic!

I would love a recoil G3! it'd have to be collapsible stock for me though, I just think they're much sexier, I'm the same with MP5's the solid stock is just a bit too cumbersome for my liking but to each their own (: I agree on liking most H&K's, I'm struggling to think of one I don't like in some way

See if your flash hider has one of those holes in it, if so, you'll probably need an allen key to undo it. This is a TM G36c so I assume most of the other G36c's should be very similar.

Sorry for not replying I've been at basketball nationals so haven't much free time I do appreciate all the replies as a bit of a beginner every tip is taken in!

What he says. Welcome along, brace yourself for a very addictive hobby

soz but was skipping bits n pieces but my gut feeling was isoprol to clean and a lightly damp sqeezed out cloth of silicone run down say 80 to 85% of barrel (mark on cleaning rod where the hop or bucking is and keep an inch away from that mark - common sense really) then a dry cloth if poss to polish off That was what I rolled with - but really gotta keep away from hop or you gotta strip it down and wash bucking in washing up liquid Washing up liquid is about one of best de-greasers to remove slicone oil coz it is a bitch to clean up spills at work of it but jeez it is bloody good stuff we use to reduce drag in print industry on folders & guillotines etc... spill it on floor and it is really like an ice skating rink - really slippery stuff and only a tiny amount needed (so spills that happened in past need to dealt with properly coz it is a bit dangerous in workplace floor) but yeah more slippery than an italian waiter round ya bird on holiday and yeah sounds like the R-hop bloke or bloke that has done numerous r-hop & barrel lapping vids edit: small additional bit of info about silicone oil and stuff...... Like I said it greatly reduces drag on our machines at work - mega fact there BUT also it greatly reduces static - which on our machines causes very weird bizarre results of materials (paper) not behaving as expected - the static can create even further drag n stuff (you really need to see this to believe it) Especially with digitally printed stock/paper that still has a "charge" left it in it fine quick spray and machines run as expected once again for a while (presume the fine coating seperates m/c & static paper to transfer freely etc.. but I dunno the exact science crap on this) BUT it does help to minimise or assist in regaining control of weird static sheets through the folding machines.... Anyway - soz for additional bollox but like a plastic comb or balloon or all other basic static fun science tests..... Often wondered if any minor slight possible static could ever be picked up as the plastic bb is fired or dragged/pushedd down the steel/aliminium/brass barrel after the rubber hop has created magnus thingy majig.... My own gut feeling and untested hunch btw - is very very little possible chance of static building up but none the less there could be a very very slight possible chance that "maybe" some bb's might have or be prone to "static" than others ? Anyway - this is very very slim possible chance of it happening or stuff but again silicone does yeild good results for when static can cause really weird effects or results in my line of work..... A final word of caution though - though this won't transform your aeg into a dmr when a little barrel polishing is done I would not advise you polish a barrel on a gun running a bit "warm" as I would expect a slight possible increase in fps from the reduced drag and smoother movement of bb down barrel Not an additional 100fps crap but quite likely a possible 10 or 15fps maybe more if ya barrel is really full of crap So if ya gun is shooting quite close to ya site's limit and in need of a clean - maybe ease off the silicone (well at least until its passed the chrono coz I'd expect it might just go a smidge higher if polished correctly) common sense stuff but really use with caution only say 80% down the barrel coz it will screw ya hop right up if it gets in there

I've been thinking about strobe torches and their use in airsoft and come to the following conclusion; The only purpose of using strobe on a torch is to blind the person your pointing it at, to the degree where they can't see what they're shooting at, so you can shoot them first. To me this seems very dangerous, and I'm surprised that most sites allow them, but will kick you out for any kind of blind-firing. If someones under attack by someone using a strobe on them, they're still going to try shoot in the vague direction, even though they can't actually see wtf is there. For the same reasons blind firing is considered dangerous, this is dangerous. It's also possible someone could be surprised by a strobe burst while they're moving, then there's all sorts of potential for walking into things/people, falling down stairs etc. It's vaguely possible to do the same thing to someone with a torch on constant beam, but nowhere near the same degree. (Or perhaps its just me and i see in a lower frame rate of something) So whatcha all think? Is strobe torches a legit tactic and I'm a whining bitch, or do you share the sentiment? Is there guidelines you feel might allow them to be used fairly/safely?

Strobes only blind you by not allowing your eyes to adjust to light levels. It's totally safe, but if you want to level the playing field a little, tell a marshall you get flicker sensitive epilepsy There are some other dirty tricks you can use in dark environments. Take a spare torch and prop it up on something pointed at a doorway and then hide in the shadows, then shoot everyone as they come in the door and shoot at a non-existent player.

Hey, it's worth it if only 1 in 5 listen and most people are decent enough to read all of the posts even if they don't understand them. It's the threads where a specific question is asked then the OP doesn't choose to read the answers that gets me - why bother asking? I can't really blame them a lot of the time though. This forum - like many others - has a habit of not answering the question a lot of the time and offering unsolicited, purely subjective advice. Hey ho.

Blind firing is dangerous because you may put your muzzle behind someone's safety glasses or in their ear and shoot them from point blank. Strobe torches do not cause any harm. And if you get shot while using your strobe torch, it won't hurt any more than if it hit you without using one. If you mean someone closer to the shooter could get hurt, remember there will be a big silhouette indicating that someone is very close to you... In case you didn't hear them shooting you

Legit. Whiney bitch.

Nothing exciting or expensive, but on recommendation have bought a couple of plastic boxes to store my LiPo batteries in. So no risk of shorting them in a metal tin, and the plastic boxes will keep them safe inside my ammo storage box..

I think most people have a different interpretation here..... I think the OP means that his guns are here and when he visits he wants to take them back to the USA with him meaning he needs an orange tip and is asking for people here to send them to him for when he imports them into the USA. But..... I may have read it wrong and everyone else be right and yeah orange tips don't do anything really here

Weekend update. While the aluminium repair worked, The heat from it has shown that the casting is suffering more cracks that couldn't be seen. When I came to fillet the lugs I used a water bath to stop the casting getting too hot on the already soldered side. Steam and bubbles appeared in a lot of locations, So either the metal is porous, or the casting has catastrophically failed. So I took a different approach to the problem. I removed both locking lugs and a good section of cast material. I then dry fitted the gun parts and took a few measurements. With that information I went and looked at my pitiful home steel stock, I only had 40mm x 3mm angle section that was suitable, everything else was a little big. So I split a 12" length of angle down the seam, Cut off some parts from the newly made 35 x3mm flat bar and got to work making a steel shoe. The shoe isn't finished yet, I have to grind back the faces, Add in some filler sections, Grind out the rear side for the receiver covers, and drill 2 holes for the screw mounting. As a dry fit without any screws at all it's so solid you can pick the gun up, wave it about, hold it at either end in any orientation and it doesn't move. It takes 2 hands to split the gun and some considerable force as well! Pictures will follow in an edit.