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My girlfriend is always finding things to complain about. Yesterday she said when peeing at night I should aim for the side of the bowl to keep the noise down Today she's saying her cornflakes taste funny

While I agree, can't help but think an item such as this, a potentially high powered airgun that's also a rif, should be visible here for the shortest possible time, therefore reducing the chance of someone unsuitable getting their hands on it. Add to that the seller has been a member since November, but this is his first post, selling something that goes against the rules, which I'm guessing he knew that hence why he clearly points out its NOT AIRSOFT. I think inconveniencing him by briefly suspending his content until a senior mod reviews it, is far outweighed by the nature of his post & the potential harm it could cause ?. Fudge it, its hidden, I'm sure the mods will smack my hand if I've overstepped the mark 😢

Yeh - I've flagged a few now. This new system seems to work quite well. I also try to keep an eye on members registered in the last 24 hours - I've found a few that way before they have posted, where they are clearly identifiable as a spam account - e.g. one had a bag of powder as an avatar and various overseas phone numbers in their bio.

Zapped a spammer yesterday, and another this morning "Pleasing" 😁

Green gas bombard!

Yes the Cobra glasses, and I am not that sweaty so maybe I am lucky? Link for site I got them from: https://www.alive-sr.co.uk/products/bolle-cobra-cobpsi-clear-lens

I've yet to "pop my cherry", you guys keep beating me to it.

Click on the search (don't add any search terms in the box) Member search tab: Joined in the last 24Hrs: Then click 'Search members' button at the bottom. The results will show - and you can filter on newest first.

They most likely add it because it sounds like it should be a good idea, which doesnt neccessarily mean it is. Speaking from experience of using dry propane, I very rarely get a leak, my MWS mags for example have never leaked in the past 3 years that I have owned them. Occassionally when a mag develops a leak which is a very rare occurance, I strip the mag down, apply a small amount of silicone grease tp the seals, heat them lightly with a heat gun and reassemble the mag. I would not advocate the use of maintenance gas inbetween games, its a total waste of money and you are more likely to do damage venting the gas each time you change over. (Freezing rubber is never a good idea) As for the adaptor, always go with a genuine madbull one, they are available on ebay and work flawlessly. The cheap clones are pretty hit and miss.

That's the adaptor that two failed. (Note the port for adding oil) Yes, I would agree that emptying the mags of propane and using maintenance gas 144a would be a good idea.

Ahoy and welcome. I'd avoid the sub-£100 CYMA CM5XX M4 series. The internals are fine, but the plastic on that range is very cheap and toyish, and that's the part that you can't upgrade. The G36C would be my choice from those three, I rate them as a platform. I think the CYMA G36s have better plastic than their cheapest M4s, but would welcome confirmation. The internals should be fine. I'd echo that the battery and charger that come with it are technically functional, but weedy and unlikely to last a day. I'd get straight onto lithium batteries rather than spending another penny on nimh technology. I'd suggest something like 2 of these or equivalent (although I'd measure the supplied battery and ensure that these will fit in the stock). Note that the CYMA comes with a mini (aka small) Tamiya connector, and that means you'll need airsoft specific batteries (RC vehicle Tamiya battery connectors have different polarity). https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-1500mah-2s-20-40c-lipo-airsoft-pack.html And a SkyRC S65 charger from wherever you can find it cheapest. This looks like a significant added cost, but it's really not worth cheaping out on chargers given the potential for things to go catastrophically wrong. Oh, if you're not in a hurry, and intending to buy from bbguns4less, then put your order together, leave it in your basket for 24 hours and you may get sent a 5% discount code. Enjoy the time and money sink.

I dig You dig We dig He dig She dig They dig It's not a beautiful poem but it's very deep

Seems fine to me

As good if not better than my LCT out the box. However depending on what you want (heavier/nicer finish), you can pick up a 2nd hand LCT for the same price as most of the new Cyma AKs.

I get enough of that from work! It's a broken camera and it's on the replace once pew is working, maybe.... "Did you put the Tappet plate spring back properly?" Yes...? ...but I am now also going to track down your V2 adventure thread. The trickiest part of getting my box back together was not have the tappet plate slip up on to the gear so it could actually close

They aren't quite so budget now, but then nothing is. However, they are still very good for the price.

Good work, and actually that's what you want to happen: better that a plastic piston rack strips than one of the gears grenades itself.

If you need a pouch for large green gas bottles, then the Viper P90 mag pouches fit them in. Depending on the age of the pouch they might struggle with the slightly larger Red gas cans (Nuprol), with the newer ones being able to fit them.

Nice one Thanks for all the comments. Read them all over and over again and think I'm going with the m906c. The only reason that one didn't appeal to me as some of the others was that I generally prefer the look of the longer ones and the idea that a longer barrel might allow me more space to play around with where attachments would go along the hand rail. For that price though, finding out that it has an all metal build has sold it to me (and will sell it to me when I my UKARA number finally comes through.) I'll have to look into batteries and whatever else now but if anyone feels like just telling me what batteries and other bits to get then I'll be super grateful as I've spent more than long enough looking at Airsoft guns for my brain to handle. I've already bought the other gear (camo, eye pro etc). Since my last club day on Sunday, I cant wait to have my own gun. The rentals are all over the place with something being broken on every gun I've used. I can't wait to have my own I will probably just copy the exact upgrades everyone has suggested. Thanks again! Just out of curiosity are the 907d and 908a also full metal? I just love the length of the barrel in the pics. I have an internal battle going on. Go for the shorter gun which suits my love for getting in close and having a lot of manoeuvrability vs the longer barrels which I like the aesthetic XD I've been going over this in my head for DAYS!

We'll be there. 👍 Possibly with a new acquisition (fuck me she isn't even off the plane yet 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣).

Fair points. There's a fair chance the seller knew exactly what they were doing sticking up that particular advert.

I run this for either my HPA tank or a bottle of gas, depending on the gun I'm using. The diameter mismatch really isn't a problem and it has held my gas bottles just fine. Height is far more important. https://www.military1st.co.uk/8040-1-brandit-bottle-holder-i-olive.html

I'm thinking he just found a way to add the site to a spammer's list. The little shit has a lot to answer for. I just hope it's a spammer site where they're too stupid to have automated the process properly. Yeah, sorry I should have reported the ad at the same time I posted the reply to it. I agree the ban button would have been a bit strong for a (potentially) honest mistake.

IMHO - these type of adverts should be reported (through the normal reporting mechanism) for the moderators to deal with. They can use other methods of enforcing the forums rule (i.e. issue warnings) rather than outright banning them that would occur with the spam-flag function. It might just be a genuine mistake on the part of the seller (unlikely in this instance, I know, but not impossible), with a little bit of 'education' needed to correct their actions. But again, that's just my opinion - the mods may feel differently.

Obligatory vote for the Double Eagle M906C... Though of course the 904 with polymer body would save some weight if it's not a "strapping teenager" we're talking about here. (One of the guys at spec ops has picked up a 904 and hpa'd it. It's a fly-weight beast) G36s are cool though... So for the cheaper end of the price range it's a great choice

Same. Can't really go wrong with a TM-Clone G36.

The 'lube in gas' thing does seem a bit odd... _No oil_ Abbey Brut Sniper _Some oil_ Ultrair Abbey Predator etc Nuprol 1.0/2.0/3.0 etc ... And pretty much everything else too? _Lots of oil_ Abbey Maintenance 144a I've always used the Nuprol or Abbey Predator in my pistol mags, to keep the seals lubed, because that seems to be 'the done thing' But when I bought my GBBR the advice seems to be go for 'dry' gas, so the hop rubber doesn't get oil on it which will impact range and accuracy. (And indeed thinking about my rifle not seeming to perform as well yesterday, compared to the previous skirmish, I wonder if the fact I've used maintenance gas in the two new mags in an attempt to fix leaks had indeed coated the hop rubber to cause the inconsistencies I saw) Well, pistols have hop too, so is it just the inherent inaccuracy of pistols that makes the trade-off of more reliable mags Vs poorer performance from the hop more acceptable?

Dan, if we're both at spec ops next week I'll lend you my old pair of Ess goggles. I didn't fog up at all yesterday in spite of getting hot and sweaty. See how you get on with them I know someone else has said they wouldn't use them because of the gaps at the ventilation holes, but looking at people wearing glasses yesterday I was struck by how poorly many of them fit to the face, so it seems an odd thing to worry about on my goggles. (The holes aren't big enough to let a BB through)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BTT67WDL/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWwp13NParams Not bad. How about just leaving the mags charged with maintenence gas at the end of each skirmish? Would that lube the gun and seals enough?

Maybe down to £5.51 if you add to basket and wait 24 hours to be sent a 5% discount code. It's not guaranteed, but I usually get sent some kind of discount if I'm patient.

ASG Dan Wesson 2.5"?

As above, what does he like the look of? I'd also suggest thinking about the weight and size of these compared with him. If he's not that strong then smaller and lighter is sensible, if he's a strapping teenager it shouldn't matter. If he's under 18 (assuming he is), he'll need full face protection, not just eye pro, some like the big masks like dye4, others prefer glasses and a mesh facemask. Hiking boots and gloves (check out mechanic) are also recommended. The biggest thing I can recommend is go with him, at least every now and then. It's great father son bonding time, I see it at sites regularly and wish I had it with my dad (as a dad of real young ones, I will take mine when they're older). It's also pathetic seeing how uninvolved dad's are when they just drop their kids off like it's a crèche.

You shouldnt be putting oil in, I've run dry propane for the past 11 years or so and refilled my tanks from a calor tank. It has saved me a fortune and makes the gun more consistent. It doesnt break your mag seals, and just requires you to apply a small amount of silicone to the piston cup in the blowback unit every now and then when you are cleaning it. MAPP gas should be used in the winter when its alot colder, my MWS kicks like a mule on it, even in the coldest of weather. You can also refill the MAPP gas cylinders with propane once they are empty.

Cat Crap is great, as is this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00ESL80E0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hi, ALL! 👋 Last part of the Lite Battlesim is on my page. Follow, enjoy and see me pull off a genius tactic? 🔫😎👍 💷GAMBLE💷

That sounds promising, let's organise Scarlett first, we'll get on to the gnus later! 😄😁

I have a made a bit of a boo-boo. Given this is some minor league tech'ing, it's amazing how easily I've managed to bugger it up - I now need some help, please! I was intent on trying to tighten my stock nut, but I thought I'd also straighten the little spring under the sling plate at the same time. So I loosened off the nut, and fixed the spring. Great stuff. The problem is I've loosened off the buffer tube and it won't screw in. It also won't unscrew completely off. I can't fully cock the gun, because the tube is almost off. And I can't pull the trigger to release the bolt from it's partial cocking. Most worryingly of all I now can't open the upper receiver because of the bolt / recoil buffer position, so my options to 'get to things' is now enormously limited. I basically seem to have tied the thing into a Gordian knot of interlocking bits that are in the wrong position. How do I sort it? Edit: Well thankfully the buffer tube has unscrewed, it was very 'sticky' at certain points in the rotation, but a bit of extra force got it all the way undone. So the recoil buffer and spring are now out, but the bolt carrier(?) won't go all the way in to let me open the upper receiver. I think I can figure that bit out now, hopefully! Edit2: Now I've managed to get the buffer screwed back into place, but I've stupidly pushed the sprung pin from the receiver down, so the tube could screw in. But should that still be up, to retain the buffer and spring? The tube is now screwed in too far to close the receiver, and it won't budge either way beyond a few degrees of rotation. I think the tip of the pin broke against the thread, and it's now wedging it (pic below was taken from a disassembly video I should've watched first - it shows the pin in its normal location) I guess that particular part isn't crucial and I don't think I have much choice but to brute force the tube to unwind a couple of turns, so the whole thing will re-assemble. Is there a better approach? Edit3: :Phew: All back together and working again. The pin that retains the recoil buffer wasn't broken. I pushed the pin holder (which I could still get to) down a bit more and that allowed me to unscrew the tube. I had a concern that the receiver still wouldn't close, but backing the tube out one more turn from its apparent natural / best location (where the pin fitted directly into a relief notch) did the trick. I have learned how the springs, pins and tubes all work together, but I think I'll leave well alone for the moment. And I'll leave this post as a testimony to how even a stock tube has enough components to trip up an idiot ;D Here's a link to the video that I got the pic from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BautCSmpOmk

Fixed the age limit. It is 18 years and older. 😁

So i did manage to hpa one of those things. Engine i used was a polarstar jack, took an sr25 nozzle and machined it down to the right length (sorry cant remember the number) Wiring wise polarstar does a plug board that lets you solder into existing trigger connections, fortunately you've only got one fire mode to worry about. Fortunately there's tons of room inside the gearbox casing/rear of the reciever for the controller, battery and associated wiring gubbins and you can just run the wire out the hole for the mainspring. End result wasnt great accuracy wise although to be fair i have abnormally high standards in that department and for a support gun a little spread isnt the end of the world. If you care about accuracy there's no reason you couldn't do basically the same treatment but using a polarstar f2, which if you do a good job machining the nozzle to the right length and a good seal should be tunable to get some real good accuracy. For me i found the 42 whilst quite the head turner in the safe zone was pretty useless on the field, entirely down to how unweildy the platform is whilst offering no more firepower than you could have gotten from an arp9 at a third the length and quarter the weight. I'd also caution be very very careful not to be too rough with it or drop it, the reciever is not nearly as strong as it needs to be and will bend very easily. You can modify it with steel bars bolted on the inside which helps a ton, but also sadly weighs a ton.....

Going to give this a go and get some items into a basket with ak2m4's shop (not tagged as website is not taking orders for a few more days)

Thanks to @Louish118 I enquired about his HK decals He didn’t have quite what I was after, but was able to get these knocked up for my TM 416 which for some reason TM don’t do the trades on the right side of the magwell So here’s a before & after 👌

I must have got one of the same bad chrono's too, that 16rps it's showing for my DE must be a lie!

I'd better sell the 4x 3,000 mAh 11.1v Titan and 2x 3,000 mAh 11.1v Valken Li-Io's that my son and I use then in our AEG's and DMR, the good RPS we get in them then must mean my chrono is broken, and what see when playing is just an optical illusion.

So, after proving it works by having an enemy squad walk past me so close I could have reached out and touched them, here's my completed ghillie loadout. The base layer is a Jack Pyke LLCS suit in British Oak. Goggles are some random mesh brand, viper if I recall, sprayed with krylon over masking tape. I then cut a piece of camo cloth mesh to shape and glued it to the frame of the goggles. The main cape is one of those mesh ones you see on all the airsoft sites, with the detachable hood. Got them both on fleabay for bugger all. I bought several packs of various leaves from Hidden Airsoft which I attached with brown cable ties. I added cheap plastic fern leaves and vines from amazon which I dusted over with krylon. For a little extra outline break up I cut up an old pair of British woodland camo trousers and tied on the strips, then did the same with an old camo poncho. The results definitely work. Not overly expensive, just a bit time consuming.

It shouldn't be the ARL. Have you tried connecting up the motor out of the gearbox to see if it spins? If you do this, make sure to hold it down firmly when you pull the trigger! If it doesn't, try the same thing with a different motor; at least that will tell you whether it is the motor or something else. Just another point: are the bent over ends of the cables where they connect onto the motor intact? Sometimes, they can break where they bend, which can be hard to spot because the heat shrink holds them in shape.

It might be worth investing in those anti reversal latch holder doo dads - that fecking thing drove me to distraction. @ak2m4 has them on his shop.