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I went into the electrical shop and said to the guy, "I need a battery so I can tell the time" 'Is it for a clock" he asked. I said "I don't know, that's why I need the battery"

TM MWS almost finished & has been a pain, but loving the result. Accidentally bought a red forward assist and mag release, but it is kind of growing on me. Also want a spare 5 - 6" handguard. Unintentionally became a Strike Industries build. Any suggestions on a colour for cerakote?

#kwa #ronin

Trouble is in a subforum you’ll still get the same questions as you get in a super thread just in individual threads , scattered everywhere because people will still moan that they can’t be bothered to read through all the others . unless … you break the subforum down with stickied threads and then lock the rest so new threads can only be started by request . Still a lot of work for moderators to keep tidy though . just my 2p.

Low quality incomplete family photo ❤️

took the hit and got a compressor from Amazon, (GX CS3 PCP Air Compressor, Auto-Stop,Oil-Free, Built-in Water-Oil Separator Filter, Powered by Car 12V DC or Home 220V-240V AC (Included), 4500Psi/30Mpa,Paintball/Scuba Tank Compressor Pump) to be exact lol. Lovely bit of kit. Fills my 48 Ci 3000 Psi tanks up in 15 minutes. Also comes with the nozzle to fill it up straight away hassle free.

You make it sound like you spent a lot of time bent over admiring the floor tiles in your local public khazi ? 😛

I’m quite fond of ‘experts’ who state with ‘authority’ that a British Army load out is wrong when on operations you get numerous mixes of uniform & equipment in MTP, multicam, DPM, olive, and issue (let alone 1950 era issue belt on just out of Sandhurst 2nd Lieutenant), QM GPC purchase, PRI purchase, private purchase. Then when not on operation there are all the different regimental dress codes, combat loads, shouty man’s dress code etc When the Army can’t agree on sleeves up/down, shirts (light jacket) tucked in/out etc and the CGS sends out an Army wide order on when up/down applies and that C95 is tucked in but PCS is out - but the Army stiffly disobeys, followed by CGSs new order of “I don’t give a shit whether it’s up/down/in/out, you can have local orders - but be fucking consistent”* * not the officially published wording On topic now ….. Loadout guides appear in some magazines as an article, or also as explicit or less explicit advertising, sometimes as web articles etc and can be aimed at airsoft, reenactment, model making etc They can also be research such as Osprey guides, museums, photos & paintings etc Theres a lot of information out there. The thing that may make a difference is whether you are collating and publishing the information or selling guides Many people will be interested in reading a guide, less would pay for it

Celebrating me getting a new job in style

Not quite but as it was a very long but thin building you could build up a hell of a speed sliding on your feet across it ! 🤣

I got mine - in beige, the best colour - largely because I hadn't seen many others around. Then my local site of course switch them them as rentals. I'll not wax too lyrical. The two-piece V3 trigger is always going to be vaguer than a single piece V2. That contributed to mine locking up fairly easily on semi with the mediocre stock motor: plenty of cut-off-lever locks that needed an auto burst to clear them, and also a couple of a hard locks where the motor stalled out completely with the spring fully compressed. But with the motor upgraded and learning not to try and semi-spam too fast, it's run flawlessly. The rotary hop is pretty decent, and it feeds well off of M4 mags via the adapter. It takes upgrades easily enough, and here's the kicker: I've never opened the gearbox. Not once, even to shim it. You can solder onto the external trigger tabs, and I just spooged some chainsaw oil into the bottom half and silicone oil into the cylinder, and it's run sweetly. "Workhorse" isn't too unreasonable a description.

I do have a soft spot for the G36, but it was the association with rental guns (and general good vibes here and elsewhere) that convinced me to buy it... If you're after a reliable workhorse AEG, then logically you can't go too far wrong looking at what guns the sites are using as rentals. Other points in its favour were the low comb of the stock, which will work with a Warq when I get one, and the fact it can fold up and fit in my general gear bag. She's all scoped up and ready to play now, got a rough zero in the back garden. Shame the red tape is showing on the mag (it doesn't on the M4) but you can't have everything.

Funnily enough, I bought a JG G36C from Action Hobbies back in 2008ish as my second gun. Very good value for money - they are commonly associated with rental guns so lack the 'cool' factor these days. Don't see many G36s round my parts these days outside of the rental punters.

That's my balcony and it's been raining like crazy for the last 4 days

You take that picture in the local community shitter ? That floors the spitting image of the public bog in the town I grew up in ! 🤔

Got my JG G36 today, in time for Sundays game. First impressions are pretty good! The M4 mag adaptor also works very well and is very easy to install and remove (though it did need a little fettling to get mags to sit nicely in it, as @Rogerborgwarned me, but this was done a few days ago with a few strokes of the file). I also got a 2nd hand viper gun carrier for £20. Pretty much as new, just a little faded. Both purchased from Action Hobbies, who have been a pleasure to deal with.

Could be down to objective reality versus perception. With RC racing, you can't kid yourself that your toy is the fasterest ever when it gets left in the dust over and over. With airsoft, every laser-shot out to 150m is definitely a hit, and it's just those OMG CHEETARS that keep your confirmed kill count down to numbers that humans can conceptualise.

Being an old fart, I don't know how to post links but check out you tube for 'whats the time eccles' I think it's funny.😂 Regards I was gonna pm ya for a heads up but after 6 hours I had a light bulb moment lol

LOL, glad it wasn't just me then🤔

There's a lot of marketing spiel on their website that shows an exploded view of the motor and mentions the built in ESC, but you're right there's precious little actual information about them. That said there's three parts of fuck all info available from ANY airsoft manufacturer about their motors (or anything else to be honest). I was actually looking for things like the Kv ratings to try and compare RC with airsoft to see if that might also highlight the cost disparity but as you rightly say, there's no info. I think part of the problem is that most airsofters have zero clue about all this kind of stuff (my background is in controls and instrumentation so I have a base knowledge of motors and servos) and really don't care beyond "herp a derp, ARP goes BRRRRRR"!

Took me a while but I got there 😂

Mrs B J Smegma 😂😂

PBnation does something similar for paintball guns, but the guns were so genuinely different in operating mechanisms (at the time - not so much now) that it made sense. For example there would be no point having separate forums for G36s, CZ Brens, AKs, AUGs etc as they all use the same style of gearbox, with only subtleties such as hop units and nozzles to differentiate them. Then there's the ballache of moderating the sub-forums. As for 'long' threads, well, there is this funny little feature on these here forums that's called - wait for it - the 'Search' function. Sometimes that comes in quite handy if you are looking for specific information. You can even search within said thread. Clever that.

Frankly, I think all P-90s should be P-Chans. It's the least gopping incarnation of them that it's possible to achieve.

I think it’s a good idea and could be of use to those trying to build specific kits. However, as mentioned be prepared to be told that you’re wrong by the loadout and experts.

Short answer: nothing Slightly more detailed: Check your FPS with a chrony and be aware that GBBRs FPS vary with outside temperature. The hotter, the more FPS. In Winter (<10°C you might want to switch to Red gas) Your nozzle return spring might break after a few thousand shots. General GBBR: clean and lube regularly, search in this thread for tips and what to use. Ollie talks Airsoft youtube channel is also a fantastic source for MWS related stuff.

B、Structure of 480 Motor Bottom cover There are two common materials for the bottom cover, one is plastic and the other is metal. The two bases have their own advantages and disadvantages. The plastic bottom cover has low cost and good insulation, and it is not easy to cause a short circuit accident when the power cord is broken or loosened. However, the heat resistance limit of plastic is not as good as that of metal, At high temperature (over 250°C), it may deform and cause failure. But in fact, it is difficult to achieve such a high temperature in normal use. If there is such a high temperature, the motor itself will almost be scrapped, so this is not a very direct disadvantage at all. The CNC metal bottom cover is just the opposite. High cost and poor insulation (Most factories will spray insulating paint on the surface, but the insulating layer may be worn during disassembly and assembly, so be sure to insulate the power cord just in case), high temperature resistance, and help to dissipate heat. Motor shell The casings are basically made of metal, and some will have heat dissipation holes. However, since the motor is installed in the handle, both sides are sealed, not open space, and there is not enough heat dissipation space. Therefore, opening the heat dissipation holes has limited improvement in the heat dissipation effect. Fixing spring Keep the motor in a stable longitudinal position in the grip or motor frame. Fixing the position of the motor relies on the force on both sides of the screw of the grip bottom cover and the spring, they clamp the motor in a fixed position to achieve the effect of stable gear engagement. Motor gear The motor gear is used to engage the bevel gear of the gearbox to drive the action in the gearbox. Generally, there are two kinds of materials: nylon and metal. Metal is divided into three types: powder die casting, injection, and steel cutting. Note that the motor gear and the bevel gear must be made of the same material, otherwise the nylon gear will be aggravated and damaged. Shaft sleeve The shaft sleeve extends into the motor hole of the handle and the gearbox to fix the lateral position of the motor. If the lateral position is not fixed, the gears will be mis-engaged, which will aggravate the wear of the gears and cause damage. A good shaft sleeve and motor shaft will be fixed with bearings for better stability. Electrodes There are positive and negative electrodes on the motor tail cover, which are used to connect the power cord. Carbon brush fixing spring Keep the carbon brush in tight contact with the rotor commutator. Carbon brush There are two carbon brushes, which are respectively connected to the positive and negative electrodes, and the inner side is in contact with the rotor commutator to supply power to the rotor coil. Note that carbon brushes are consumables. After friction loss, they will not be able to supply power to the motor, and new carbon brushes need to be replaced. (Some friends find that the motor can’t work after using it for a period of time, and they think that the motor is damaged and replace the motor. In fact, check the wear of the carbon brushes at this time. It is very likely that the carbon brushes are worn out. Just replace a pair of carbon brushes. Repair the motor) carbon brushes commonly include graphite carbon brushes, copper-containing carbon brushes, (there is also a silver-containing carbon brush, the cost is high, 480 motors are generally not used). Graphite carbon brushes are relatively soft, not wear-resistant, and wear out very quickly and need to be replaced frequently. Copper-containing carbon brushes are divided into high-copper carbon brushes and semi-copper carbon brushes according to the copper content. The higher the copper content, the better the wear resistance and life, and the higher the price. However, too high copper content will lead to high hardness of the carbon brushes and aggravate the wear of the rotor commutator, so I prefer to use semi-copper carbon brushes to achieve a balance of life of each part. Rotor structure Rotating shaft Connectthe motor teeth, the heads are all D-shaped shafts Iron core Used to wind coils, generally made of silicon steel sheets. Coil Use enameled wire for winding. The thicker the wire diameter, the larger the current and the bigger the power. By the way, here is an explanation of the TPA and motor performance mentioned above. Under the same conditions, the larger the number of coils (TPA), the greater the torque and the lower the speed. The smaller the number of coils (TPA), the smaller the torque and the higher the speed. The upper performance of the gearbox is that high TPA can pull larger springs, but there will be lower RPS, and low TPA can obtain higher RPS, but cannot pull too high springs. At the same time, due to space constraints, if you want to get a higher TPA, you need to use a thinner wire, the current will be smaller, and the power of the motor will be lower, so the heat of the high-TPA motor will be relatively lower. We cannot blindly pursue high TPA or low TPA, we must choose the appropriate TPA according to the gears and springs (I recommend referring to the no-load speed of the motor to match the gearbox to obtain ideal performance, later I will talk about how to calculate and match) Commutator Contact with the carbon brush to supply power to the coil, which is a wear part, and can continue to be used by replacing the rotor after reaching the service life. However, the life of the commutator is usually much longer than that of the carbon brush, so the commutator can continue to work after the carbon brush is replaced several times (depending on the type of carbon brush). Base fixing shaft Fixed in the bottom cover to keep the motor axially stable. A good motor will use bearings to hold it in place to avoid wear and tear over long periods of time. Wind blade Some motors will install a plastic wind blade at the end of the iron core, which can drive the airflow to help dissipate heat when rotating,it is helpful for the motor that runs for a long time.

Several of the kit guides I've seen are basically adverts for a specific shop or shops. A decent independent kit guide would be useful I think.

Bought it as piss take as much as anything but turns out it’s an absolute corker of a gun and I love using it ! 😁 PS if she does decide she enjoys the game I can set you up with some pink P90 mag pouches if you want as I’ve been making and mod’ing pouches , slings , holsters , and what not as a side hobby for a good few yrs .👍

you'll need to get her the pistol to match now too 😛

Thank you rogerborg. As for the puttees.... They didn't seem to sit right over the boots I was wearing, so I rushed off to the briefing without putting them on. Next time though, I should have a better pair of boots that aren't so chunky

A couple knocked on my door this morning and gave me a lecture for over an hour about how good brown bread is better than white bread. It turned out they were Hovis Witnesses.

HFC revolver will be converted into a Taurus model 44 I just need an airbrush kit after I 3D print the replacement barrel and other parts

Outstanding, sir! It's not that bad, currently I carry 5 mws mags on my operator belt (as well as 4 glock mags and my holster and grenade), 3 in my chest rig and 1 in the gun if I want. If you're smart about weight distribution and cinching your gear, the weight isn't that noticeable.

👍Classic. Thanks

New kit for a very old and tired stock TM Sig 226 , over 10yrs old , probably closer to 15 and was my back up & winter use 226 back in the day . About 6months ago I fitted the threaded barrel and it’s bugged me ever since … so now time for a full face lift .

Tupperware party 😛

If only you’d been looking last year you could have picked this up for her ; but unfortunately I did , AND now it looks like this ! 😁

Chopped and changed a lot over the last year or so, but I strongly suspect this’ll be my MWS from here on out. Only thing I’ll be changing is the Aimpoint mount to something a bit more fit for purpose. Internally just had the standard Supernub and HSB, have an npas to sling in at some point.