Leaderboard

Just felt like posting a pic or two…since my G&p A1 receiver bought it in the flames, I just had the ‘burning’ desire to create a new version. Managed to literally dig from the embers, my army code barrel AND front sight!!! And decided to go gbb. I also had an a2 gbb but that wasn’t so fortunate, and is one for the nice insurance man to sort. anyways, just the upper mods to do and the engraving…. For the purists out there; my G&p thumbscrew mount acog is cremated so this will have to do atm, and for reference, the peq-2 is an invisiblesight IR version I was lucky to have safe at my son’s.

Sold three rifles in just two days. They were all superfluous to the collection, but the money is just going on the credit card... Which is far too grown up for me.

surprised an airsoft company isn't simply branding it as a feature "reduces reload-shot time by 0.4s"

Are there no urchins available? Freshly hot after being extracted from a chimney. CHEETARS FEER IT. I really, really, reeeeally hope that @Haloenjoys playing airsoft as much as he's enjoying buying the gear. If not, well, bargains ahoy in the classifieds.

Seeing as it enables the player to DESTROY other airsofters, it's surely worth thousands.

So did my first day playing Airsoft today over at Airsoft Plantation. Went with a friend who turns out has been going for some time! Mostly had a good time, absolutely shattered though! Don't think my body has moved like that (short running bursts, kneeling down, bending round corners etc) for around 2 years. THINK I mostly kept up with the pace, there were a few times I was happy to stay back a bit lol. As a first timer, my biggest challenge was knowing the map. Marshalls explained the game and where we needed to go etc, but not knowing where they are, meant I was just following others around quite a bit. Think once ive been there a few more times, ill start to get to know where everything is and have more of a equal playing field to the regulars. (Maybe i should have asked the marsalls for a map or something...). Did feel guilty at one point as a nade went off which I thought was 7-8 meters away (where they say anyone within 5m is hit), but marshall called me out to say it hit me, happily took the hit without question, just didnt want to come across as cheating at all. Overall I enjoyed myself and can only see it getting better, Health Stats: Fat Burn Minutes: 217 (119-140bpm) Cardio Minutes: 182 (141-167bpm) Peak Heart Rate: 155bpm Calories Burnt: 4,324

Picked up my first Hi Capa Shoots a .25 a reasonable 40-ish meters with little hop applied so hoping to get to 50m on .28’s with a fresh hop rubber / barrel combo Im used to Glock reps so this is all new to me

Me too..... All the measurements from the 128 mag are the same as the 123 mag apart from the overall length and the lower section (your 76mm section). The 128 hi-cap mag is 146mm long and the lower section 93mm long on the hi-cap 128 mag. Good to know, but looks like only the specific 128 hi-cap mag will fit the 128, but the 128 hi-cap mag will fit all the non hi-cap guns all be it with 16mm poking out of the bottom of the grip. Cheers, Pat.

Mate do it! Sign up some buddies and go. I bet you would be buzzing for weeks after 😀 Regards

I did have a ticket a few years ago but the logistics are what stopped me, hopefully if we can get a few people together then it’ll make the costs and organisation etc a little more manageable.

It sounds and looks great 👍 Had a look at their website last night. Logistically it sounds like a lot of planning and organising. I'm too old now to take it on but wish I had got involved years ago 😔. My closest experience.to berget would be the nae although not really comparable. But it's only an hour down the road. Even with that I have to have a little nap before I put tents up lol. I would say to anyone who is able to,go do it! Regards

Gaz - Not my workmanship, I sourced these via a company on FB called Gesto Plastico Worth looking him up / giving them a shout

More research needed to check mag compatibility. If OP doesn't know the make or have one to compare its going to be tough.

Is who persuaded me to start using an Explosion Containment Pie Dish while charging. You're not my dad, you can't tell me what to do. I'm pretty cautious with anything lithium based that has been deep discharged, and more ready than usual to yeet them out the back door on the first recharge. And that applies to airsoft batteries, 18650s (cells or arrays), and any piece of old electronics that I find lying around and decide to bring back to life with whatever random charger happens to fit. I tend to spudge electronics or laptop arrays open so that I can keep an eye - and a temperature probing Mk 1 finger - on the cell or battery while charging. But if they recharge up once (at low amperage, after a little bump to get them started if necessary) without swelling or the magic smoke escaping, then I don't fret too much afterwards. Should I? To be clear, I agree that li-ion is overall a better technology in 2021. Just that li-po is still pretty good too if you don't abuse it with too much impact or current. And that everybody loves a good dramatic story about when it does very occasionally go wrong.

Something doesn't add up here. Bolt outer barrels are 14mm CCW threaded so if yours is smaller than that there's fuckery at play. Do you have a picture?

if anyone wonders why i'm not a fan of buffer tube stocks, this is one of the primary reasons..... don't get this problem with a fixed a1 stock, jus' sayin.....

Every battery comes with risks. Thing is, be sensible. If you puncture or short ANY battery you can have a fire or an explosion. Can you rescue a deep discharged LiPo pack? Yes. Should you try and rescue a deep discharged LiPo pack? Probably not. Is a metal cased battery inherently less prone to mechanical damage than a soft pack? Yes, but it isn't impervious. If the outer metal casing of the cells is exposed you do run additional risk of shorts but if your battery is so badly handled as to expose that metal casing then you should be more careful with your batteries. Plus you can easily whack some electrical tape or heat shrink over it and you're back to square one. If you manage to peel back the outer sheath on a soft LiPo then you're in for a bad time. As for the whole "Li-Ion batteries only work in standard guns" thing? Yeah, that's bollocks. I run one in my MK12 DMR which has an M120 spring and an Infinity U22000K motor in it and it's absolutely fine. Will it work as well in an SSG1 with 45RPS? I don't know, I don't wear lycra, but the point is that not all batteries are the same. Pick the one that suits your application and get on with your life.

No need to be coy. Well, kind of, it's like a moped or a fat girlfriend. But, yes, for a this-or-nothing backup, I would generally say CYMA. They're cheap because they make so many of them, not because they're bad.

If I’m honest with you, I’ve had the best experiences with the Cyma AEGs.

Using gear like this actually saves you money in the long run. If you just shoot an airsofter, they'll go to respawn and be back in the game a moment later (unless it's after lunch, then it takes much longer). When you have the ability to DESTROY your opponents, they're likely to just give up forever, question the meaning of life and likely spend the rest of their days living as a hermit. After all, unless you're actually reducing the number of people who enjoy playing, are you even really winning?

Using a Thermal scope is a hell of a lot of fun, different options out there now across a variety of budget, gives you an unbelievable advantage whether day or night, sure some will state pay to win etc.!! - Me I'm just a peacock & enjoy the toys, also like going up against the NV users I run a couple of different set ups with Thermal 1- RIF Mounted Thermal Scope - Have a Pulsar XQ50 LRF Trial 2 which is an unbelievable piece of kit, easily dialled with range detection well over a couple of thousand yards, you can get around at night using this set up although it is a touch more challenging, I'll use my NV Mono to get around at pace, then once in a clearing switch to the Thermal for target ID, advance using the Thermal & eliminate the enemy. Recently added some 3d printed hex lens protectors to fend off those pesky bb's, although have run a Thermal for a few years now, never had an issue & the germanium lens is tough as f**k, but never say never hence the addition of the lens protector(s) 2- NV Mounted COTI (Clip on Thermal Imager) - Currently runs with a NV Mono (although binos are due today), overlays a Thermal Image onto the NV objective lens, effectively giving you green Thermal, nowhere near as good as a decent Thermal scope, but will up the NV ability considerably as even the best NV can struggle under poor conditions / dense canopy etc. Couple of pics below, caveating that I am not an NV or Thermal expert & have come to these set ups under my own previous experience & recommendations from others

To counter that Iceni are the videos and the personal experience of players who are using them and are very happy with them. It seems a lot of people got their knickers in a twist when Titan launched their range back in 2018 and decided they were a marketing scam. Those forum posts are still found early when googling 'are Titan any good', and those posts make the same claims about lack of peak power. Perhaps Titan were exaggerating their product back then, but they upgraded the range in 2020. I just discovered a nice but little subscribed YT channel called Rock Bottom Airsoft The chap there tests the 3 main types of batteries with both standard and upgraded guns ... And then gives a report after using them for a time ... The TL;DR from that is he uses the Li-Ion all the time in preference to Li-po, and he runs upgraded guns. I've yet to see any stories or videos of failing, fiery, exploding, melting Li-Ion batteries. But maybe that hasn't happened because there aren't that many in use. Or maybe the added safety of the metal case really does make a difference. I know which type of battery I'd rather have in my house anyway. The ability to store them at any level of charge without me being to render them useless with a simple mistake or lack of care makes them better value too. I've barely played much Airsoft recently now I've come back to it after many years, but I've already seen a puffy battery that had to be ditched. I'll take the Li-Ion for a simple life. Edit: Iceni, I forgot to mention you assumed the worst of Titan with their C rating. I did wonder, so I searched - they address that in their FAQ

When using a PC, the seach box is pretty obvious at the top right of the page. And "search this topic" is the forth option down. Not difficult to find and select.

You do realise Li-ion can be just as dangerous as Li-po. The fires from both are similar. Li-ion fires can be caused by crushing, shorting, overcharging, and wrap damage. The only advantage they offer is a metal skin and slightly better tolerance to lower voltages. The advantage of the metal skin however is lost as soon as the wrap is damaged as the whole wall of a Li-ion is the negative pole. Li-ion is probably responsible for more Lithium call fires than Li-po as Li-ion appears in far more technology from E-cigs to laptops to cheap torches ect. Li-po on the other hand is only really used in small devices like mobile phones. Titan just got good at branding. The biggest disadvantage of Li-ion is the C rating. If you have a better motor in the gun then the battery will spend all it's life above the continuous discharge rating for the cells. Those Titan packs are simply unable to safely drive an upgraded gun where the amp draw is going to start creeping up. Titan 3000mAh is rated for 16C what they don't tell you is if that's burst or continuous. You assume it's continuous but since they don't give both values you have to assume it's actually giving you the maximum amps - Burst. So it's a 24 amps continuous 48 amp burst pack. To further back that up you can look at 18650 spec sheets and see the battery tests for them. A good benchmark 18650 is the sony VTC6 that can only do 5C/10C continuous at 3000mAh - 15amps continuous 30 amps burst. Just try to find a well branded 16C 18650 and you will have many issues as no one makes them. A basic 2000mAh 15/30C Li-po is capable of 30amps continuous, and 60 amps burst. A decent lipo 2000mAh 20/40C is 40/80 Amps A fantastic lipo 2000mah is 35/70C 70/140 Amps If all you want to do is power a stock gun then Titan is fine. However as soon as you add a bigger motor or spring you may find they get hot quickly and don't last many cycles at all. This video actually shows pretty well the amps needed for upgraded motors. Pause at about 26 minutes and look at the chart showing peak and continuous amp draw on some of the better motors out there. Those tests were done with an M120 at 12V on 18:1 gears. So our numbers at 350fps will be lower. NiMh doesn't care about it's C rating. It'll cap out it's Amp discharge normally at about 30-35A, but putting more load onto the battery doesn't do them any damage because the chemistry doesn't care and acts like a hard cap, Lithium cells Li-po, Li-ion ect will all try to give more than they are rated for and this is where the problems start as the battery will just keep supplying Amps until it cooks. It's the same effect as taking the rev limiter off a car, The engine will rev until something breaks, So you want the engine to be at least as good as the load you are expecting to put on it.

Another AK followed me home today. One did last week too. There's another that I fancy in the classifieds section... Is there an AKs Anonymous?

The FLIR is an amazing thing to use. At night you can see just how much life is around you without you usually noticing. It allows you to track and spot animals that you can then locate visually. It's great for spotting blood from game animals. It's great for spotting squirrels and rabbits that you don't suspect are there. Zeroing with a thermal is fun. You have to heat a nail with a blow torch as the target! I expect that you would use it the same way for airsoft ish. Certainly you could light up a sniper otherwise well hidden.

That is awesome - thanks @Rogerborg. Will measure up my 128 tomorrow and report back. Might help someone else in the future. Pat.

Yes, just. I just tried it with a typical 1600mAH stick battery, 205mm long. Wired with small Tamiya connector My gun is a new Double Eagle M906c with a simple stock design, and Deans connector. The stock tube is 160mm from end of the receiver to the end of the tube. It's 120mm long internally. I have no idea if there's a standard size for these things! The problem is the wiring, with a Deans to Tamiya adapter lead, you'll need to do some 'squishing to make it fit. And 'squishing' leads to damaged...leads. And that's not good, make sure you get the cabling tidied up with no slack to get in the way. I'm buying a Titan Li-ion battery... 3000mah in a smaller package. 135mm long, 20mm diameter. Expensive-ish at £30 (and you'll need a smart lipo charger) but no worries with charging or storage, just like wavey-gravey said.

Depends on the diameter / length of your buffer tube and again the same with the battery. Have you considered Li-ion instead? They are supposedly a good middle ground, I like mine.

Of course I'm on their VIP list 😁 And not forgetting OnlyBBGuns

I buy airsoft guns just for the free BB packs 👍

Hi, ALL! 👋 So I finally decided after reaching my goal of 100 Subscribers! 😁 Yesterday made an Instagram account, which I shall slowly grasp and add more content to? 🤔 gamble_0013 Keeping it simple on Social Media and respect before disrespect, “Honour system!” 🔫😎👍 💷GAMBLE💷

Current pic of the obsession.

Unfortunately not unless you are the only player with night vision in the game area. the thing about digital is that they do still require a light source they just allow you to see IR, so they tend to come with an IR LED illuminator to make anything near darkness visible. unfortunately, because IR is very close on the light spectrum to red you can often appear to people without NV as a glowing red cyclops and for those with NODs you appear as having a giant headtorch, which isn't exactly subtle either. hopefully that explains their limitations, however for dusk and dawn when they don't require the additional light they're great but your eyeball does pretty well too then and is definitely cheaper. as @Monkman said you can pick up a pretty good unit for around 1.5 k second-hand although bargains do occasionally pop up around the 1K mark and there are a couple of FB groups for buying and selling NODs. if you're going the whole hog and making a once in a lifetime investment go for Gen 3s or Photonis Echo's or better if you can, just make sure to see what they're like in person if going second hand. Equally most Gen 2+ units will be amazing for your occasional night game use and it's probably only worth stepping up if you are putting in the hours at night.

i recall reading a guide that went something along the lines of "if you aren't concerned for the continuation of the next generation you haven't got it far enough up your leg" however i'd simplify that to the correct way to wear a drop leg holster is to have it so far up your leg it's on your shoulder.

Minute of urchin is fine accuracy for airsoft but alas, slotting the lumpen proletariat with a 5.56 is another casualty of the namby pamby nanny state that we all live in these days.

Well, it turns out it doesn't fit the M249. The position of the spade connectors relative to the back of the bell housing (I might be making these words up) is different and it won't clear the gearbox shell. Fortunately as I was being super careful for once, I discovered this without snapping anything off. There's not a huge amount in it, so it might work with some filing of the gearbox. A job for the weekend I suspect. One benefit I have enjoyed already is not having all my screws/tools/belt buckles fly towards it whilst installing like they do with the current motor.