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A Noobs HPA Engine Build - My Wondrous Journey So I thought I’d start a thread on here to document my latest Polarstar (“P*”) build, documenting what I purchased, where I purchased it from, my experience of the retailers, progress of the build, any problems/issues, some general FAQ’s and finally the finished project. I’ll be doing this in the evenings after work, making sure to cover each step and uploaded pictures for reference. Hopefully this can also serve as a basic guide for those people looking to get into HPA engines such as “P*”, alongside providing basic how to’s and answers to common questions. I'm starting this tonight and will continue to update with pictures and progress in the evenings when I can. Please feel free to PM me with any questions or additional tips and I'll look to included them. Happy Reading Firstly….what did I buy and where: G&G GC16 MOD0 30th anniversary Edition - Airsoft World, Link here. Polarstar Jack (V2 Edition) - Beesting Airsoft, Link here. Ninja LPR + 36" Braided Line (In Red) - Beesting Airsoft, Link here. Retro Arms Speed Trigger (In Red) - Beesting Airsoft, Link here. Retro Arms Selector (In Red) - Beesting Airsoft, Link here. ZCI 6.02mm Stainless Steel Barrel - AK2M4, Link here. ZCI Prowin Clone (I have both polymer and CNC in red) - AK2M4, Link here for polymer and here for CNC. ZCI 12" Keymod Rail - AK2M4 - Link here. APS Ver.2 Tactical Dynamic Trigger - AK2M4 - Not on website currently, was a direct order. APS Evolution Tech Flash Hider - Ak2M4 - Not on website currently, was a direct order. Maple Leaf Bucking and Omega Nub - Milspec Solutions, link here and here Big Dragon Butterfly Aluminum Cocking handle - Airsoft Peak, link here Element M16 Tactical Target Grip - Airsoft Peak, link here VisionKing 1.25 x 26 Short Dot Scope - Ebay (VKTechLTD11), link here Paracord - Ebay (md-flashlights-etc-ltd), link here Pictures: http://imgur.com/gallery/XR7VQ My experience with these retailers: Airsoftworld - Had no communication with them really, I simply found the item, paid for it, it arrived next working day. I've used them before though and not had any issues. Beesting Airsoft - I cannot comment on how helpful this company has been (Danny in particular). I've purchased all of my HPA parts from them, in fact this is my 2nd P* build, 2 x Jacks, lines and regs. I can see myself using this company time and time again, happily recommending them to friends, family and fellow airsofters. Ak2M4 - Another great company I use a lot for internal parts, especially the barrels and hop units. Honest to god, best value for money and great customer service. Milspec solutions - Ordered from these guy quite a few times now, Spoken to Ian on a few occasion about upgrade parts etc. Always happy to offer advice, well packed and speedy delivery Polarstar - I spoke to these guys after they did the post about adding pictures, put both my builds on there and got speaking to a chap, I told them about my experience with their products and my small issue with the short FCU, they immediately offered to send me two extended cables. Absolutely shinning example of customer service, would certainly recommend them Airsoft Peak - My products arrived after a few weeks, took them about 6 days to process my order, but the items did arrive and the prices were great. Now I know the timelines I'd definitely use them again, but for items I don't mind waiting for. md-flashlights-etc-ltd - Ordered some paracord, was unsure on colour/length so I gave them a ring, they were polite and helpful. I even asked about next day delivery on this order and some other paracord and I only got charged the cheaper option but had them in my hands the next morning. Will be using them for all my paracord related purchases in the future. vktechltd - Made a best offer on a sight, then accidentally bought it now, ebay in it's wisdom then tried to make me pay for both. The guy was nice enough to cancel one of the orders......the cheapest best offer one lol I wasn't to annoyed though, would use them again as the quality of the scope is great and the item was well packaged. Overview and quality of the parts: This particular P* build is going to be a DMR, I'm aiming for range, accuracy and consistency, which is why I've chosen the parts I have as they've served me well in previous builds including my last P*. My base gun is the G&G MOD0, I got this as I've installed a Jack into other G&G's gearboxes and I found them easy to work with and give good alignment. Not to mention the price for AirsoftWorld was great considering it's full metal. I picked up another Jack as the I was really happy with the first one and for the price it's a great start in the HPA engine world. The regulators I use are the Ninja LPR's, they are easy to use, easy to maintain and once broken in they offer great consistency. The barrel I'm using for this build is the ZCI 6.02mm Stainless Barrel, normally for a DMR I'd use something a bit wider, however the last ZCI barrel I bought was great and I've been using them in other builds. Not to mention they have a slightly wider hop window than most stock barrels and Madbull barrels. The hop chambers I've got are the ZCI Prowin style, one is polymer and another is the RED CNC'd one. Again these are great and apply a nice pressure, with good range of adjustment, alongside good build quality. In regards to buckings/nubs......this is pretty much personal preference, I have tons of barrel/hop combos set up in various rifles at the moment. The ones that work for "me" are: ZCI 6.02mm barrel + ZCI Hop Chamber + maple leaf bucking with maple leaf omega nub. ZCI 6.02mm barrel + ZCI Hop Chamber + G&G green bucking (flah hopped) with Prommy purple tensioner. Tanio Koba Twist Barrel, this is in my custom Tippman M4, running standard nub and G&G Green bucking. considering the barrel is 200mm ish....it's great. For this build I've ordered various nubs/buckings and will update my experience with each. Where to start: First thing first, I needed to get the gun apart, which as I’m sure more of us know isn’t the most difficult of things to do on AR style guns. Stage 1 – Removing the gearbox: 1 – Remove front body pin, slide the upper receiver forward* and pull the charging handle back and slightly up in order to unhook it from the top catch on the gearbox. *If the gun is front wired, you’ll need to unclip these tabs in order to remove the upper as the cables will get caught. 2 – Remove the motor by undoing the 2 small screws on the base of the pistol grip. Once removed you will need to unhook the motor wires from the motor itself and then remove it entirely. Once removed you’ll need a long phillips screw driver to remove the screws which hold the pistol grip to the gearbox. 3 – Next remove your stock; once again you will need a long phillips screw driver to remove the retaining nut holding the stock onto the body/gearbox. Once you’ve undone this, you should be able to remove the stock tube. 4 – From here you should have a gun that looks like this. 5 – Next you will need to remove the gearbox from the lower receiver, which is a case of removing the rear body pin , small body pins and the mag release. 6 – Once the gearbox is removed from the lower, proceed to strip it, I won’t cover this part as there are loads of guides online. The only parts you’ll need are the trigger (I’m changing mine), trigger spring, spring guide, trigger board screw and safety cut off lever. Stage 2 – Installing the Polarstar Jack: 1 - Put the Jack into the front half of the gearbox, where the original cylinder was, there are small dimples on the Polarstar Jack which will line up with the gearbox shell. Simple 2 - Next you will need to install the new trigger board, which is a simple case of pressing it GENTLY into place, once lined up, proceed to secure it using the original screw you kept earlier. 3 - From here you will need to connect the wire from the Polarstar Jack onto the trigger board and also attach the harness, it should look like this once done. 4 - Put the trigger back, check to make sure that it's all in place correctly and the spring is secured. * will vary gun to gun, trigger to trigger. At this stage you may also need to put the spring guide back in, in order for the stock screw to have something to anchor to. * again it varies on the AR variant you have. 5 - Depending on how the airline from your jack is lined up, you may have quite the bundle of fun trying to close everything up lol. On my first Jack it laid flat and was easier to work with. This one however pushes up against everything. *A quick note at this stage, the Polarstar Jack is meant to be rear wired into the stock, however you "may" be able to front wire it or have the battery in the pistol grip and FCU in the stock tube. Our own Qlimax kindly sent me a custom made battery cable which should give me enough length the have the FCU in one place and the battery in another. 6 - Once you've worked out your cabling arrangements, reassemble everything again (part 1 in reverse), making sure not to pinch any of the cables as you do. The airline at this stage will be coming out the pistol grip. 7 - Make sure that you get the gearbox in and lined up nicely. This is achieved but making sure the gearbox is in a straight line as is the nozzle, you can check by reassembling the upper and making sure the nozzle enters the hop chamber straight and without the nozzle getting pushed all the way back. This part can take some time, it may involve tightning/losing either the stock screw or pistol grip screws, as both of these will affect how the gearbox sits in the receiver. The Externals: **Ongoing** So I've done the bulk of the build now, stuck all the externals on that I currently have, However I'm still waiting on a pistol grip, suppressor and charging handle. Externally I'm trying to set this up to be light and low profile. Hence the use of the Keymod rail (Brought from AK2M4, Here. Quality wise was just as good as the other ones you see from retailers at double the cost). I added the red trigger and red selector....because it just looked cool. That and the fact they were kindly donated from Beesting Airsoft as I thank you for using them to purchase my HPA bits from. I will be revisiting my other P* build and using the APS trigger provided by AK2M4 as it's a nice dark grey and will suit the worn look. The trigger was fairly annoying to install, purely because the return spring in the G&G was stupidly strong* and a pain to hold in place. *This will differ by gun. The fire selector was also a PITA to fit, as the small plate that sits on the inside of the gun, was too wide for existing hole, so I had to widen it a bit. Also to this day I'd never actually removed/installed a selector.......and to tell you the truth it was so stressful, I had to put everything down and walk away lol. Basically you have to pop the dummy selector which is pressed/glued in. Then use a small screw driver to remove a small screw which holds the plate to the selector. FOR THE LOVE OF GOD DO THIS ON A WHITE PIECE OF PAPER, there's a tiny spring and even smaller ball bearing which will drop out, roll onto the floor and disappear forever leaving you to raid through your spares box and remove them from another receiver you had laying around.......you have been warned. There's a handy video on removing the selector here. With the keymod rail I had to use some barrel washers (2) in order for everything to line up and be rock solid, I'm not going to explain installing it as it's pretty self explanatory Luckily for me the G&G MOD0 outer barrel lined up perfectly with the 12" Keymod rail, which means a suppressor will sit flush with the rail. I'm hoping to get a better suppressor on there shortly. (Payday). Once the charging handle turns up with the PSG-1 grip, I'll update with some more pictures. Hop and Barrel Combo (inc nub, bucking and chamber): **ONGOING** So I'm currently running the ZCI 6.02mm Stainless Steel Barrel and Polymer Prowin Hop Unit (Purchase from AK2M4) and for the moment I've just popped in a Maple leaf Bucking (75 degree) an Maples leaf Omega Nub (courtesy of Milspec Solutions, thanks again Ian). I'm going to be experimenting with other barrels and buckings etc to see which for give the best results for "Me". Here are some simple pointers though: A benefit of a tight bore barrel is less air (PSI) is needed to get the correct FPS. When using a wider bore barrel (6.08 - 6.20) you will have to up the PSI to accomodate for the large volume of air required. As an example in my first P* when running a 6.02, my PSI was set to 75 ish and I got 346 FPS on a spare TK barrel of the same length but wider bore (6.08?) I had to run 85 PSI. This basically means tighter barrel = Less PSI = Less Air Used = More shots per tank. and the opposite for wider barrels. The current argument is that for longer range, wide bores are better when used with HPA and set up correctly. However for air efficiency and short to medium range, TBB's are good. From my experience, it's all relative....at 150-200" any decent barrel, bucking, nub and chamber should perform alright. So from that perspective get a TBB a it's cheaper and more air efficient. However if you're going down the full DMR route and want that 250-300" range then get a decent wide bore. You'll have less shots per tank, but you'll be using a DMR on potentially higher FPS anyway, so 700 shots on a 13cl tank should be more than enough for semi auto. It really depends on how YOU play and the ranges that YOU engage people in. You won't need a wide bore, flat hop and all the time required for a full DMR if you're running and gunning at 100". In that case a decent bucking and barrel would be more than enough. In regards to flat hops, they are pretty easy, they work great and are worth the 15 minutes or so needed to do. Heres some buckings and nubs I've had success with: G&G Green and Purple Prommy pensioner or black for higher FPS Prommy purple bucking and tensioners The buckings AK2M4 sell work really well and due to the material they trim down well with a stanley blade, the prommy/G&G are "squidgy" and move alot without actually being cut lol Prommy blue sucks balls...end of. Madbulls are OK, but I noticed they didn't seal well once flat hopped. Falcon bucking, ripped at the mere idea of being flat hopped. Wouldn't use. Another note about flat hops is they are only as good as the barrel you put them in, so it's worth going for a good barrel. Another reason I used the ZCI barrels is they have a slightly wider hop window than some other brands, which is perfect for flat hopping as it allows for more contact. Setting Up The Polarstar Jack (FCU Settings): **TO BE UPDATED SHORTLY** The finished project(s): **May also include my 1st Polarstar Jack** Performance: **TO BE UPDATED SHORTLY** Common Problems, Simple Fixes: **'ll be adding to this after tonight lol* FAQ's: **TO BE UPDATED SHORTLY**, hopefully everyone can chip in and we can add to it HOW IT LOOKS TODAY: "updated"

Speak for yourself, at my age I tend to just walk around in the woods . You go first, I'll cover you.

Dont see the issue. He is puting up videos that he sees as informative thats not a problem. If he was advertising as a seller or promoting on behalf of a seller then I could see your point. Video is the medium he prefers to get his opinions across and thats fine. Leave the poor guy alone. Trashy carry on with the vids mate your doing a good job.

Yeah, that's why I edited my post. Misunderstood your intent originally. This whole thing is turning into a bit of a pissing match though. Find the style you like, play it. There's no need to judge others for wanting to do a different thing.

Why does it have to matter how or why you do what you do? If someone takes what they do more seriously why are they wrong/right? We're all running around the woods with toy guns FFS.

Content is content. Whether it's a post asking about UKARA or a video about milsim.

Just pure gun porn here

Yes but isnt this the point. The OP describes the Stirling/Tier 1 approach which is fine if that is what you want. Not everybody wants that, there are other organisers who cater for the different flavours, right through to milsim light and the more object focussed skirmishes. The problems occur when people become so locked on, with their particular milsim flavour of choice, that they cant see anothers point of view. Decide what flavour you want, play with whom you want and just accept that not everybody likes what you like.

One of the biggest mistakes made by new players is not having their kit set up very well and/or understanding the limitations of their kit. By that I'm specifically talking about hop units being set properly, and in woodland this will improve your range. I see it with most rental guns, site operators don't set these often or ever in some cases. It's not practical in many cases for them to spend 5 minutes per gun, often 20 or 30 guns a day to do this. So if it's your own gun, learn to set the hop before you go next time. If it is the site rental guns either ask one of the marshals when they aren't looking busy or one of your team mates who seems to know their stuff with kit. This will improve your range. It only takes 10 or 15 rounds. In CQB setting hops isn't as important as the ranges you are shooting are much shorter so less likely gravity will have a big impact on your shots. The next is your bb weight. If renting you may be limited to the sites standard rental ammo which will likely be 0.20g. You might find that a site owner will allow you to use 0.25g if bought from them. If it is your own gun switching to 0.25g is advisable. It is heavier but counter intuitively actually gives better range, is less affected by wind and less likely to have its trajectory altered by grass or leaves, giving slightly better penetration.

Real life First Person Shooter - entertaining and gratuitous Call of Duty style action. I expect some airsoft players imagine this very scene www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWURz6HvTVw

I'm trying out a sim type game for the first time as well myself shortly, Sennybridge at the very end of October. Certainly interested to see what it's like overall, the types of people that go and maybe to try some other similar games by different companies afterwards just so I have an idea of why people play these sorts of events and the variety that's available (as discussed, there's clearly various 'levels' to the overall notion). For some time I'd only go to sunday games by myself, then I started always going with my brother which was definitely good and I've never massively enjoyed going to any games alone if I'm honest. I've done a couple of the events that Arnies have put on which are around 40 hours long but purely made up of small fun games involving weird and wacky objectives with comparatively little shooting and lots of social with chilled out camping overnight. Ideally I'd quite like to go to that sort of thing a couple of times a year, but I don't think it has the 'cool' factor that most people seem to be looking for, which is a shame. I played at UCAP Sandpit a couple of months back with my brother, another buddy and a ragtag bunch of uni students that I sort of knew-ish through said friend and FB and although the staff at the site were mostly shockingly sh*t with overall terrible games, I ended up having a really good day purely because the group of guys had a similar mindset to me in that they were very much interested in cool gear and guns etc and running around shooting but purely within the fun little delusional realm we create on the BBwrz battlefield. No shouting or getting worked up over the game itself at all, just getting in the action where we could and chilling out inbetween regens etc just generally talking and having a laugh. Overall I find (or at least think of) the whole gameplay aspect of using airsoft weapons to be a sort of watering-hole or binding glue to use for bringing people together and giving us all a common ground and subject to chat about. I'm fairly confident that any group of airsoters who've all been in the game at least a couple of months or more could talk pretty much indefinitely about guns and gear and game styles and sites etc etc etc; there's so many facets to the hobby and things to talk about. So yeah, I'm hoping the sort of slightly enforced-teamwork and 'camping' aspects of a milsim style game vs the average day skirmish will generally lead to more opportunity to speak to people and have those times inbetween pew-pewing to make acquaintances and generally indulge in the aspect of the hobby I really like the most; which is the discussion and social slightly more than the actual shooting and running. I enjoyed boiling up a rat pack with my buddies during the down times on exercises and other similar stuff I've done so far in my work, but there aren't a huge amount of airsofters in the forces and while I like a lot of the people I work with that's more of a coincidence than anything, because often we don't have anything in common other than the job itself.

Most of the time we get split up from respawning but get back together when we can, sticking together & playing along side eachother, we've learned eachothers play style & habbits Down with the ruski's lol

Playing my first milsim with Okto Eight in December. Really looking forward to it and getting away from the unorganised skirmish environment. I try and play skirmishes like a milsim in some ways by preserving ammo and working as a team when possible but some people just don't want to play ball.

I'm active on threads with replies that deserve a response.

Unissued AK915 U.S Night Desert Camouflage Fishtail Parka Z-Tac Comtac II Helmet mount (OD)

Have to agree, even with the G&G bit.

Issue resolved !! :D :D Thanks guys for your help. Lowe and behold the issue in the end was the piston head! After rulling everything else out, my only conclusion was to replace the piston head. Though the origional worked and was sealing like a boss, it was a very tight fit. So in goes pom asg piston head, build back up. Carefully check piston on rails .. al good. Pop the xcortech, shot 1 355 shot 2 353.... . Many happy shots later and its consistently back up to the 350fps mark i was so used to. Also due to the piston fitting happily, the rps has also increased . All back together and ready to go for stormforce on sunday !! Cheers guys. George

That wooden furniture is gunna warp if they keep taking pictures of it in a sauna.

£650

Sorted. You were right. But the follower is made of two parts. These were the wrong way round I'm my mag. I had to push out the tiny pin and pit the swively follower back together the right way Thanks for the help man Edit If you're having trouble. Which side of the magazine is the detent on? All my magazines now hold the first loaded BB on the right hand side of the magazine (towards the cocking handle)

Ok, I'm back. Pretty easy to take apart, but I'll get to that in a sec. The follower has a 'tab' on it which means you can't flip it around or it won't push down into the magazine. Simple as. Here's a pic: Notice tab running along the 'BB well' and how it would interfere with the magazine wall after about the ~4th BB if flipped Here's the follower with the tab pointing towards the camera Edit Lazy disassembly guide: Remove all BBs Hammer out two pins on the side of magazine Remove metal 'shroud' of mag (or plastic if you have a plastic one) On one end you with see a flat head slot made of plastic - turn this 90 degrees and remove the spring (it will be under tension, obviously) Remove plastic 'shroud' - you will notice a spring pushes this upwards. Remove the spring first, then pull the plastic part upwards and off (you may need to deform the plastic slightly to do this by pulling it away from the body of the magazine - you'll see what I mean) Remove 4 screws - they are inset and you may need a glasses/jewellers screwdriver (Philips head) Remove side of magazine You're done.

Yea, play indoors

I'm honestly surprised you've managed to get through extended all-outdoor games with the kit shown and not been, at best, very uncomfortable. IMHO, no clothing system is fit for purpose without a hardshell layer and a loft insulation layer; all standard issue stuff with many militaries for good reason. The vast majority of softshells are not waterproof (never seen one that was tbh), neither are issue smocks; hell water will get through goretex under the right circumstances. My issued softy jacket and goretex jacket are by far my most valued items whenever I've gone on any exercise or detachment. I don't rate cotton t-shirts for airsoft either, any clothing item with cotton content will be poor at sweat wicking and hence slow to dry once wet, plus it'll be cold once it gets wet; synthetics wick and dry substantially better and wicking is the main thing you need in your base layer. Good video overall and I liked watching it. I think there's some good advice on food, water, eye pro, boots and sleeping kit (most of the main priorities), backpacks, bringing plenty of spares, transport options and I think your choice tac gear is solid. To my mind your clothing is a bit lacking in some areas, but that's the only 'criticism' I might have really. Not saying it doesn't work for you and I'd imagine it does so that's fine, but if I were giving advice to people for a kitlist that's just where I'd differ as to my mind the kit in the video would only really suffice for summer use. Maybe that was the intention? I may have just missed something if so.

http://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/marui-part-vsr7-vsr8-vsr9-mag-catch-release-button-catch--spring

We offer a bridge between the Stirling/Tier and milsim lite approach. We are one of many milsim flavours. The problem occurs when passion for a flavour is seen as preaching. The OP is obviously into the Stirling flavour. Nothing wrong as long as he accepts he will get a minority support on a general airsofting forum and nothing wrong with us giving feedback providing we recognise his right to like what he likes. You are all customers. Everybody has the right to like what they want. We post up details of our games and activities. We appreciate that most have little or no interest, but we post to provide a diversity on an airsoft forum and for the benefit of those who ARE interested. Surely the OP is indirectly promoting organisers like Stirling which is no different an approach.

I agree with deebo, i think its seems to be the two differences more between the have a laugh skirmish and they take it too seriouse milsimmer. I just want middle ground, i want the organised feel of milsim but to still be smiling and having fun. If i wanted to be so hardcore i felt like i was in the army or to the point where i feel like im on an sas training ground id go join the forces.

Yeh, or use imgur.com as Photobucket is shit.

Think this is what people mean. Suggest you sit in the corner and think about what you said.....

just to add....i wasn't to worried about the hit factor at my first game but it crossed my mind when you look on youtube etc, i wouldt worry about it, and i got hit several times form various distances, only had a bruise on my fat side for a few days, prob from around 25m or so and a mark on my hand from about 5m, just for a split second but it goes and you carry on.... got hit on sat after putting my hand up and saying hit....some one shot my palm from a few meters, swore as you do it hurt for a minute but red mark had gone sunday afternoon.....so dont stress! just do as they say and wear the recommended eyepro/facepro so you dont lose a tooth or your sight!

what!!, ive gotta prepare for winter now, ive just done summer!...wifes gonna kill me when the wardrobe bursts!! i'll just wear another t-shirt, my fat keeps me warm but cant see it being to much of a problem if your on the move....at least i wont sweat so much hopefully! I do have a MTP smock i may use for the damp cold days, plenty of pocket space!..... other occasions, might get some of those hand warmers for my pockets, few more pairs of socks, nice bobble hat to go over my helmet..... yeah just use layers, you'll be fine!,

The film is coming too:

Welcome - nice site and good play to all plus you guys do have a sense of humour too

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0KnldTBE3mc&feature=youtu.be

Hire guns tend to have awful range/accuracy and it's also easy to assume you are hitting people because your BBs are heading in their direction but they are actually falling short but you get an idea of the limits of your gun over time. What the guys above have said is sound, but providing you are using a hire gun you probably just need to get closer.

Was it a hire gun? If it's your 1st game with a hire gun you probably did not adjust the hope so your range may have been a bit shorter than most other players. If in the future you want to get a red dot sight you probably can just do with a 1x (i.e. no magnification).

Best decision mate, though please learn about the defence. You are not getting a 'UKARA' ( UKARA is a Retailers Association ) you are getting a site membership which is your defence, which will then be logged on the UKARA Database. It is also commonly referred to as a license, it isn't. This may seem like nit picking but the more people that repeat this rubbish the more confusing it gets. Enjoy airsoft.

Indeed, i need to get a mosfet without AB , AB really cant help much on wear and temps. My negotiating skills certainly seemed to have payed off, i contacted the seller and has agreed to help replace the motor. Lets see how we get on

For me personally, I'm looking forward to my first milsim event in december I'm an ex serviceman but I'm not doing it to hark back to the 'good old days' (great memories but some really bad ones aswell) For me, its a change from skirmish days. Its a chance to meet new people & possibly new friendships, yes it's playing pretend soldiers at pretend objectives but how many of us do get immeresed in a days pew pew pewing lol Above all, it's the enjoyment, challenges & socialising which I don't get much being a lone parent as my kids come first

Just looks like an advert for your YouTube site to be honest as you don't really use the forum much

just my own 2 cent opinion get ukara buy cm18 G&G RIF forget the blowback - overated and more crap to go wrong

If they only use their BMW to go to a club once a month where all the other people with BMWs pretend they're racers then of course I'd find it amusing. But you're right, it's their money.

Eat more and get fat for winter.

Real cap mags are for that extra realism i guess. But i think being that its all toy guns, i might as well treat it like a segal movie and not have to reload for an unrealistic amount of time lol Going to my first milsim with okto 8 in december and have a longmoor game next week. Personally, i dont enjoy haphazard nature of a skirmish. I want an objective. Still, its toy guns, and choice.

But even bring conservative with ammunition using real caps isn't real for the reasons I stated as it might take 5 shots to make a hit as apposed to one in the real world, which is being "simulated"

Good lord, no! Work somewhere that isn't air conditioned and upholstered? Are you mad?

I put in my massive man balls and get on with it. Obviously none of u work outside for a living! Lol.

To prepare for winter I....oh wait, I just play indoors.

My gear changes dramatically in the winter. I change to fingered gloves. More waterproof boots. Thermal underlayer. Wear a jacket over my combat top which typically is full camo not UBACs (ECWCS II). Replace cap/boonie for a camo watch hat which is warmer. I also stop using a pistol and move to hi caps, sticking one in a pocket and the other in the gun so I don't have a chest rig/assault vest at all. If I do carry anything else its in my pockets but usually its just a spare mag. Not sure if I will do it the same way this year, I might try and get some fighting gear on this winter if possible but my priority last time was reducing my sweat rate with less gear and keeping warm.

I think most people would to be fair.

Wow thanks for your input proffrink !! Fortunately i have given this much thought as the scuba tank and filler are already sorted for me. I have had a little cry at the setup costs and have pre taped my rear up, ready for day 1. I will certainly look at the larger tanks, i did see the larger gurilla tank but the price sky rockets when you hit 4.5k psi on a 88ci tank. I have sourcd the tank from a UK retailer so no issues with delivery My plan was to take it easy with the tank and use the skuba tank to refill between games, later on i would then look at a beefy tank. I am actually waiting for my first Z-kit from airlab to come monday for my mk17 AEG, cant wait ! The high to low regulator i have been looking at getting from the grangeairsoft which has the QD on it already by the looks of it. http://www.grangeairsoft.com/hpa-airsoft-accessories-redline-airsoft-fire-base-air-rig-rig-rlfb/dp/225 Thanks for the advice on the tank regulator, something to add to the list Luckily my boss does diving quite allot so his experience has come in handy. I did stumble across the orga barrels while looking into what setups people go for and was one on my list but not straight away I have been chatting to tony via email regarding the kits and has been great help, i may very well discuss the import charge . I am pretty handy when it comes to mechanics so the installation shouldnt be too bumpy Cheers for the advice ! George