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Son and I did our first games with our own kit yesterday! Spent the morning at Dogtag in Sussex. The guns and eyepro we had bought worked faultlessly and really upped our enjoyment of the games. In total this was our fourth session and we are starting to get a feel for this now, there’s less running around like headless chickens and we’re starting to think about strategy. Theres lots more gear to buy 😂 like decent gloves, something to hold spare mags, etc. Pretty happy with our weapons, my son got a number or people remark how good his one looks with scope and suppressor. roll on next weekend!

I wanted to test the theory of barrel scratches, I took 3 barrels, brass, aluminium and stainless steel. Did a borescope video before on all 3, then used a nylon cleaner brush 15 passes on each one, then cleaned with tissue and isopropanol, then another borescope video. I was expecting perhaps some scratch on the brass but nothing on any of them. Just be 2 cents worth. @Yashy Have a watch on YT at how to remove and clean an inner barrel, it will also explain to you about how to clean and remove the hop chamber and hop rubber. If you plan on playing quite a lot this information will really help you get the most out of your AEG.

https://www.usedairsoft.co.uk/clothing-gear/wanted-as-starting-off_i55899 and https://www.airsoft-hub.com/item/27250-beginner "I've been bitten by the airsoft bug but I don't want to spend anything. I see so many of you have worked smart/hard or invested well or perhaps inherited to buy your gear so I just want to mooch off complete strangers."

Haha, you're not the only one. I'm waiting on my rather expensive new toy to arrive and we're only 1 week into the new year...

Bad start to the new years spend already 🤷🏼‍♂️ But what can you do……. enough spares to build another one included.

Should pay me for looking at that fugly stock

I did some work on my mates car for him and in payment he gave me a pew that I didn't have in my collection..... An Ares Scar L. It didn't work (i knew this, he knows i like playing with them to revive them!) so i got to it. stripped, cleaned, greased, shimmed, confused about this EFCS malarkey, figured it out, chrono'd at 0.6j (0.28g) and wondered why the ambidextrous selector was in a bag in the box.... OH MY GOD. what a faff. No, scratch that, WHAT A MONUMENTAL PAIN IN THE ASS THAT IS!!! Now i have patience. I'm an engineer. things that come apart should go back together (with the odd left over screw of course) but even i gave up with that!! Nightmare job. Anyway. Scar L now 1.1J on a 0.28 and with the help of the internet, firing semi/3 shot. Safe is more of a suggestion on behalf of the selector switch (that ISNT ambi!!!!!) Just thought i'd vent/share. LOL.

Time to send all the broken/knackered stuff we all have kicking around at the back of the drawer. I’ve got a KWA USPC with a knackered hop that it’s impossible to fix and make work for example…

Had to laugh. Got home from work and my boy has tried every accessory on it already....😂

Latest arrival Not much info regarding these online, and YT videos are very old and scarce Im pleasantly surprised with the build quality of the TM plastics and more metal than I had expected. Still to be tested as my batteries are deans and I don’t want to change this at all. more a collectors piece than skirmishable, but it will get an outing one day The few YT videos out there show partial markings, this has full “UZI” on the receiver, probably something to do with different markets, but didn’t think that TM bothered with that stuff

May I ask what you think you're missing out on by not quite hitting the joule limit? There certainly comes a point where the pellets travel so (relatively) slowly that you're not competitive on the field but in the real world, you're not going to be at an appreciable competitive disadvantage if you're ~0.1J below the limit. Maybe it's just me but I'd take being able to sight an opponent first and have a better trigger response over chasing the joule limit.

How much under? Around 285-300 on a 0.25 is just about perfect. With a 0.25g BB, the maximum FPS is 313, as it gives the same energy (Joules) as 350FPS with a 0.20g BB. If you set up your rifle to be at, or only just below, the limit there is always a risk that you will be overpowered on a site chrono when you go to play; chronos are not consistent. It is better to set the rifle up to be at about 1J (328FPS on a 0.20g BB or 295FPS on a 0.25g BB) and fit, for example, a 60 degree Maple Leaf Macaron hop rubber with one of AK2M4's red nubs. You will see a noticeable improvement in range and consistency, especially if you also fit a better quality barrel.

Apparently a second hand gun, that costs £495 new, rockets in value to £700 when you add a new hop, spring & a service. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't a hop & spring an integral part of any aeg, without either it would be boneyard. Yep, servicing costs money but not essential to sell an aeg, unless of course it was faulty & needed the attention ?. Seller also states it's discontinued, while technically correct, 20 seconds on Google found a UK retailer with them in stock for £495, so I'm still trying to figure out why a secondhand gun, that shouldn't be worth more than £350, £400 at best, is apparently worth £700 ? 🤔 Opinions please, anyone else got a valuation ?

It does look like you are clearing some grease from the barrel, which is a good thing. There will be some resistance but, if it is too much, use less cleaning rag. I would not use a paper towel, though. Use something softer to reduce the risk of scratching the barrel; I use strips of J-Cloth with Isopropyl alcohol. Make sure you do not damage the hop rubber. It is better to take the barrel out of the gun to do it, if possible; that enables you to get a good look down the barrel to make sure it is clean.

I made the mistake of looking at some of these falling down an internet rabbit hole and ended up hanging my nose over the gun in the title. Of course I then bought one and following are my thoughts on the gun. In case you don't know what it looks like... https://images.app.goo.gl/9mtVnfitABNswYUX6 For me it's a sexy gun, maybe the sexiest. Sexy and heavy. It weighs 3.6kg with mag, battery and sight and more than a little front heavy. It's the Blue version, so inside it should have half decent bits and clearly the air seal is ok, firing at 365 fps on a .2g BB, through its little 220mm barrel. It's happy on a 3S lipo or a 3S life. I swore to myself I would use it before taking it apart, but I didn't. It had a very clunky fire selector which bothered me greatly so I pulled off the sliding stock, which is very nice and sturdy, with a great extending action (only 1 of the 3 extended positions is useful to me, so I will mod those later) Once the body pin was out, I slid out the gearbox out and pondered the fire selector. I am used to a G36, they are V3 gearboxes and this is a V2. I don't recall working on a V2 before so of course I ploughed ahead, pulling the motor out and sliding the plastic bits off after taking the fire selector levers off ( grubscrew on the left, then pull the shaft and right selector lever through the gearbox. There's a "plastic bit" that sits in the plastic lower, through which the selector shaft passes from the right and gets sandwiched by the right selector lever. Anyhoo, the gearbox has a quick change spring, a shiny ribbed cylinder and a plastic nozzle, sans o ring. The casting is textured for some reason, it's not radiused and not shimmed properly. I noted that the plastic fire selector plate was binding leaving safe to semi on the contacts, which stuck up really high, so the copper part of the fire selector plate had a lot of work to do to get past them. I imagine it's meant to electrically disconnect the trigger as well as mechanically lock the trigger on safe, but it doesn't do the electrical isolation. I will probably rewire this given the pointless contacts. The fire selector plate and the aforementioned "plastic bit" ( a sort of cam) work together provide a crude detent, in addition to the detent in the left fire selector lever, when selecting safe, semi and auto. For safe the plastic bit has kind of beak that goes over centre on the bottom of the fire selector plate, on semi there's a nub on the plastic bit that nestles against a raised bit on the fire selector plate and on auto, the aforementioned beak engages the raised bit. To smooth all this out required: Pushing the contacts down ( they may have been incorrectly seated) so the fire selector plate would move more freely Taper the beak of the plastic bit, so it would engage safe with less force and move from safe to semi with less force. Reduce the size of the nub on the plastic bit to engage semi from safe more smoothly. Taper the top side of the beak so it would more easily engage in the auto position. There is still a detent effect putting the fire selector plate in the right place, which now works with the fire selector levers own detect, meaning it all clicks into place now. Much like my G36s. Having, as previously mentioned, sworn to not take this thing apart I now have a list of things to do. Spring change, maybe nozzle change. Shimming and consequently adjusting motor height. Filling in the 2 useless cut outs in the sliding stock so it slides to the right position. Add a MOSFET ( nothing fancy, I have a load of 3034 chips to use) Some of the MOSFETs used in the posh ETUs are really not very good. Altho the Jefftron ones are very nice. Rewire the thing in decent cable (the PVC stuff doesn't like the bends this gun seems to require and it uses lot of it, going to the back of the gun from the gearbox then to the front to the battery) Short out those weird contacts under the selector plate and get the copper off it. That's probably enough for now, please feel free to tell me where I'm going wrong or what else I might do since I am already doing this ^^^ Maybe you've noticed there are not many pics, Some tech issues prevented them appearing here. I'll add them as soon as I can.

Yes & no, fets, sound generators, tracers, smoke generators, various options for recoil, hpa, wanker guns, the list is seemingly endless. Or, you could run a bog standard aeg with technology more than 25 years old, & still dominate the battlefield. Works for me 😁 (sometimes lol😏)

Been playing for 24 years now there has been some major improvements if you want to modify your gun, but the QC is still spotty as hell and TM is still the only really reliable brand. However in the end if you actually know how to set a hop unit you can still be competitive with stock JG G36.

As a proud Scot I stick my feet in poly bags before I put my boots on.

If your boots are Goretex (or equivalent) and have a gusseted tongue you may want to look at a pair of gaiters rather than Seal Skinz socks as the main area of ingress will be over the top/wicking through your trousers.

The pic looks familiar, as does the text, or at least the context, I think he tried it on here previously, & I've definitely seen similar posts elsewhere, whether its the same chancer I've no idea, they usually get short shrift. LOL, probably related to the various pikeys that wander around with a petrol can claiming to have run out of fuel & needing a few quid to get to their wife who's in labour⛽🤰

Hi, cant comment on foot problems as i dont have any, but i have the adidas terrex in trainer and boot form. Wore the boots today after breaking them in last week and they have performed really well. Feet comfortable and dry all day, the open tread pattern dealt with the wet mud on site really well. Wore a decent pair of socks too

Have a look at a microfibre “stuff it” pouch, these usually come on a small carabiner that you could attach to your kit in some way. Retractable lanyard would be ideal.

Never played but im following this as that site is about 30 mins away from me.

Running my British WW1 kit a few weeks ago up at Adrenalin Airsoft (Was visiting a friend, very far north for me usually) one of the best regular skirmish days I've had in a while! (Repping the First Battalion Boys WW1 team insignia, based on blackadder's fictional badges)

I spent some time today working on my Magpul/Ares Masada and was moaning commenting about some of the appalling design decisions, including the ambidextrous selectors; my son then asked why I have three Ares rifles if I hate them so much. The answer is simple: they make some unusual and beautiful RIFs. As Egon_247 noted, their gearboxes are wonderfully over engineered and as robust as a Russian warship.

Bit of a chilly video this one, struggling to get decent firing performance out of the Vorsk...

custom gbb workshop sig p226 marui gbb airsoft guarder slide frame barrel kit cerkote little parts

Depending on where you are in Thames Valley, it may be worth considering the Battery run by RIFT Airsoft. It's toward the top end of your 2 hour driving limit as it's based in Essex just east of Stansted Airport. Is all indoor a strict requirement? The site has outdoor sections, however, some of which form part of the objectives depending on the game(s) played there.

We had a bit of a sad Xmas. Our pet mouse Elvis died...yeah he was caught in a trap.

yeah I used the m90 one, kinda wish I had a bit more fps! Im hitting under 300. at 1J

Which spring did you use today?

A Fleabay purchase just arrived today, speed loader adaptors, WE GBB AR15/M4 (needs a very slight fettle to lock into the loader, prob easier to fettle the loader), AK & MP5 both work perfectly.

oh it could be the hop, if you increased the hop, the FPS will drop, because more force is being applied to spinning the BB if you touched the hop any amount at all, it can affect the FPS a little bit it cannot be battery, battery does not really affect FPS

If you don't want to take the gun apart then at least make sure the hop off is dialled off completely, that's the easiest but to damage. To be honest I've often used bits of kitchen roll, it didn't occur to me that it could any harm!

They don't make too much difference with GBBs and AEGs, but they make more of a difference than you realise. With GBBs you have the sound of the slide if pistol or the bolt if rifle going back and forth and with AEGs you have the sound of the gearbox, however in both cases a foam-filled suppressor will dull the popping sound as the air or gas escapes the inner barrel. This is more pronounced in gas guns than AEGs, but it happens in both. Also, the gearbox noise and action of the gas blowback are near your head, so you hear them more, however your muzzle will be, or at least it should be, pointed towards the enemy. I did some testing with a friend where I walked down the range to hear what guns sounded like from the other end, and you'd be surprised what a difference muffling that popping sound makes even in AEGs and GBBs. With spring it helps, but you still have the noise of the piston slamming forward. However, gas non-blowbacks and HPA guns will love having a suppressor on them, as that popping sound of the gas or air expanding as it leaves the barrel is most of the noise and it's heavily muffled with a good suppressor. I've had people standing about 10m in front of me and not hearing a single shot with my m40 and m700 because they're suppressed and the only noise is a faint click of the hammer. Same thing with HPA, there's no real noise to speak of outside of the air expanding as it leaves the barrel.

Gas , HPA , NBB , springers they do make a difference , volume with a soft filling is best ime . AEG , not so much .

There was a batch of the old British assault boots where the soles suddenly self destructed without warning and crumbled almost overnight. People on patrol with field dressings wrapped around their boot to retain what was left of the sole was an amusingly common sight, kind of turned the boot into some kind of medieval fabric footwear.

clear enough for me but I’ve still had multiple messages from zero post count lurkers asking 😂

Even as a native English speaker, and fully aware of the meaning of the word completed, it didn't jump out as being sold and I too contacted a seller about an item. He was very nice though and explained it in simple terms for me. GET RID OF BLOODY "COMPLETED" AND PUT SOLD!

Managed to cop a genuine 6094 in AOR1 running it with FFI base clothes. Love the MWS platform compared to AEG or hpa

It's a shame that we are so prepared for it to fail. This is exactly the kind of thing we, as a sport/hobby, need to get us some positive media attention. Maybe lessons will be learnt for the next one, or we might just be surprised how well run and organised it is! I suspect pigs might fly but it would be nice!

Got bored over Christmas and treated myself to some Hi-Capa bits and some bits off Brownells for one of my AR’s.

Bit late to the party but I remember those days of first AEG, back in 2015 raiders were the choice then as well, I did however go for an ICS UK1R, still use it today, but played once since 2019 😂🤦‍♂️ My 14 yr old has played a game, due to age restrictions, couldn’t go sooner, and loved it, luckily though I’ve amassed a small armoury and wardrobe collection he is almost set but I feel your pain of duplicating most equipment 🙁, I’ve kind of all gone M4 base with the AEGs, even the G36 (ICS G33), takes M4 mags so atleast he can use my hi-caps 😂 just make sure he enjoys it, one thing I would recommend is radios for you both, my worst fear was the ‘cease fire’ call and man down!, I was the only one moving looking for him with that parent fear something had happened to him….found him with another youngster and loads of big kids preparing to storm a building having the time of him life 😂😂😂🤦‍♂️ hence radios…!

That's really good to hear @andrey. Might be worth having this post as a sticky thread as it's so common in the Ares EFCS. When mine failed, I only used 7.4V 2600mAh LiPo. The first replacement mosfet I got from Ares was the updated longer type that you have there @andrey and the back of the EFCS board started smoking and a copper track broke. Don't know why as I put a new insulating pad that came with it behind the EFCS board. The other two after that had the same issues as you've had, blown Schottky diodes. As I said in my post above, it was a standard gearbox but with a warhead base motor. Time will tell with this but at least we know what to look out for in the future. But if this keeps happening again and others that read this want to steer clear of the Ares EFCS, it might be worth modifying the gearbox to take a Perun V3 hybrid. I've successfully installed a V3 hybrid into the standard Ares G36 non-EFCS gearbox with a bit of milling by the micro switch and it's working perfectly. Chris

Hi Andrey, Yes I did get that the bottom of it, after a bit of bench testing and probing, I found that a 3.3V SMD regulator wasn't getting power directly from the battery, this 3.3V SMD regulator powers the hall sensors for the selector and magnet in the sector gear, and following this back, I had found a blown Schottky diode, with the letters 'SL' printed on it (circled in the picture). Seems like it's a common fault in these, as two separate EFCS boards had the same one blown. I ordered some new ones from RS components and it's been running beautifully ever since (touch wood). I haven't had any experiences with the trigger micro switch failing... I see lots of comments online pointing to this, but a simple continuity test with a DVM can quickly tell you this. Probably a bit easier for me to diagnose and repair as I'm an electrical techie by trade, but can always offer a hand if anyone experiences the same EFCS failures. All the best. Chris