Leaderboard

A funny one was at a game a while back. I was set up shooting and suddenly I feel a smack in my back. This is accompanied by my mate Robin cackling like a loon from the dead zone. I had called hit and challenged him on it to which he laughed some more. At this point I was miffed and shouted 'I ain't taking a hit from a dead player'. Turned to re-engage in the game and quickly felt another smack iny back. This time accompanied by a 'sorry mark and chuckle'. What I had thought was my mate in the dead box was airsoft camman laying about 15 metres away much to my mates amusement. Called the hit, took the walk of shame and ended up in one of his short videos as 'this guy thought his mate was shooting him'. In my defence its exactly what my mate would normally do given half a chance. I like most of you have called hits in the past from rain drops, twigs and other random none bb related whacks.

Double Eagle are no longer considered to be shit! That's changed 😄

I would personally do as suggested and simply increase the height of the nub with tape or glue. It’s extraordinarily easy, and may just solve your issues without an expensive hop unit. I actually did this on a friend’s RIF between games to deal with the issue. I’ll also note that Maxx units are very picky. Some models have issues with certain hop rubber or nozzles, and different models have different issues. They also won’t actually increase your performance over what the stock one can do, unless your stock has serious issues.

Pretty much finished the MR-C Model - I luckily came across a couple of official Crye renders of the gun (via the Internet Archive from Crye's own website ) which made me realise that the proportions were wrong. So I basically rebuilt the whole thing again, but I had a lot fun doing so. Seems like the real thing was a very small gun - just over 700mm, which is fixed-stock MP5 territory. @mightyjebus Don't suppose you have a V2 or V3 GB model that I can use to check if it's viable to build the gun? I did model one myself last year - but lost the file.

Fixed. If its only fired 300 shots before shitting the bed then it needs to go back (assuming the OP hasn't done anything to void warranty, eg opening up the gearbox)

As i'm currently in the process of building a DMR, I sold the 3-9x Nuprol optic that came with the base AEG as it only had a minimum magnification of 3x. I briefly considered using a 3x flip down/to side magnifier but would like the ability to have A. adjust windage and elevation for the longer shots and B. have a smooth adjustment through the magnification range so I can have a suitable magnification for the situation. My current options are as follows; Visionking 1.25-5x26 - £80 - No throw lever Victoptics ZOD 1-4x20 - £100 - £60 was from evike europe and they wanted $150 shipping RedWin Rynox 1.2-6x24 - £62 <- a recommendation from user on Reddit I found - No throw lever Redwin Torero HD 1-6x24 - On sale for $103.35 (£81.35) - Seller has throw arms/rings specifically for this model Vector Optics Forester 1-5x24 Gen 2 - £130 - no mil-dots Vector Optics Mustang GENII 1-4x30 - £130 - chevron optic Vector Optics Grimlock GENII 1-6x24 - £135 Novritsch 1-4x25 - £85 (I know I know Novritsch bad but i've seen favourable reviews of this) Thoughts, recommendations i've overlooked or general advice?

lovely 😂

This is the one I use: https://grabcad.com/library/airsoft-gearbox-v2-g-g-1#! looking at your model it looks like the V2 will be too tall so you have to get creative

I would have, if I had seen it in time. It was a very good price.

Ahoy, and welcome back. Nothing's much changed except that everything's more expensive and "walk on" now means pre-book. But 0.7 TM Joules still outranges 1.14 CYMA Joules.

The outer barrel has to be g&g. The reason being that g&g 308s use a deeper outer barrel to make use of standard v2 gearbox and nozzle parts while bridging over the larger magazine well. Handguards are much more optional as longbas they have their own barrel nut/mounting system included.

That was my go to and already swapped out to ML 60° & Omega hub. As its the G36 type hop its like the nub holder needs to a few mm taller. Was thinking of changing to cnc version like the Maxx Begadi GST nut struggling to ind anyone in the UK that stocks it. Cheers

Well it’s set as complete so it must have been real. Somebody got a bargain 😂

Then I'd go with a Maple Leaf macaron + omega nub (or XT knock-off). https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hop-up-buckings-nubs Or the tuppeny fix is to use a piece of biro tube as a nub, or just stack some pieces of electrical tape between the bucking and nub.

The power of desperation? Secret rule change. Either way, it could be entirely legit, just don't treat it as differently from any other purchase, irrespective of the riveting tale being spun.

Since you've said in another post that this was a new purchase, from a retailer (patrolbase), and it shot 300 bbs before it fried - then I would send it back for repair/replacement (as stated by CrackCommandoUnit1972 Then: just use the gun until it needs upgrading Cyma plats tend to already have upgraded gearbox internals and motor, so you're good there. Otherwise, pretty much what Leo said Until the mosfet dies, wouldn't bother replacing Until the hop rubber shows signs of wear, (usually after a few thousand rounds), wouldn't bother replacing You could upgrade the barrel, but, if it's firing fine - leave it Mosfet wise, with the perun: You might have to modify the gearbox shell slightly for it to fit in properly mostly just means filing down/removing a "post" or sometimes the cut-off screw hole. If this is the case, then you'll need to clean out your gearbox shell afterwards and reapply any necessary greases - cracking open the gearbox voids warranty Start by contacting Patrolbase, tell them the problem with the gun, they'll either try diagnosing/fixing the issue remotely, or request you sent it them for repair Then, if the gun works, leave it be (so long as you havent opened anything, you can send the items you bought back for full refund, though maybe keep the silicon oil for general maintenance).

Definitely not the norm, but it's collection only so at least someone can check what their getting, I used to live 5 minutes from there, I'd have been on it like a tramp on chips🍟 It's either true & better to get something for it than leave it behind, OR It's dodgy af & he's flogging his flatmates kit before getting the hell out of dodge before his flatmate & his ex get back from holiday lol😏

Haven't posted here in a long time, I'll restart with this Scored a steel version Bear Paw SVU GBB a while ago and wanted something special in regards of optics for it. Looked around a bit and finally got my hands on a rare 1P21 scope - very large russian scope that has been used on the SVD. I'm not sure if any of these have ever been used on the real SVU, standard for this was the PSO-1 scope. It's also not possible to mount large scope mounts like the one of the 1P21 on an SVU without disassembling it, as these are pushed onto the side rail from the rear, which can't be done on the SVU. I usually try to go more or less authentic, but here I didn't care - it just looks so nicely badass 😋 Bearpaw OTs-03 SVU steel version with realsteel 1P21:

The only upgrades you really need are a Perun and maybe a hop rubber. Everything else is fine—you shouldn’t actually need to reshim or relube the gearbox. I would personally say to put the Perun in, maybe change the hop rubber if you want more consistency (only applicable if you’re using high quality BBs .25g or up), and avoid touching the shimming and lubing, especially if this is your only gun. Stock shimming and lubing does not need to be touched on most stock guns (CYMA Plats being better than most), and I can tell you from experience that as a beginner you’re more likely to mess something up than improve it on your first, second, and third tries. You can do whatever you would like with your RIF, but I would personally recommend picking up a cheap second RIF if you want to learn to tech. It’ll save your game days and headaches!

My ex says this is where I belong.

Curved barrels, or LRBs (Long Range Barrels) were a thing before hop up existed. Enthusiastic players would bend the last third of the barrel a few degrees in order to impart some kind of backspin. People have been debating where the BB flies in the barrel for years at this point. Over on the American forums, we actually have members working on a glass barrel project. On examination of the fluid dynamics, it seems that no proper quality airsoft BBs contact the top of the barrel or rattle around, but instead float through the barrel, closer to the top but not touching. Bore size is practically irrelevant. The people who say the BB rattles around in some bores and skids or floats in others are completely ignorant of how little the difference actually is between these barrel bores we care so much about. I will also cite that BBs rattling or skidding down a barrel produces a very distinct, noticeable sound that is lacking when you shoot your airsoft gun, even upside down. Naturally, air will push and flow around the BB due to its spherical shape. The proponents of the skid theory, where the BB rides along the top, propose that the Magnus effect forces the BB to “hop” off the hop patch and cling to the top of the barrel. However, this does not make any sense, as the Magnus effect does not become stronger than the forward velocity of the BB until long after it has left the barrel (overhop), even using extremely short barrels, which should theoretically prove this. I am not a physicist either, but having spent time both talking to people smarter than I, and researching fluid dynamics, I believe the most logical explanation is that the BB does ride closer to the top of the barrel, because of a negative pressure cushion created by the backspin (Magnus effect), but does not touch, because of air naturally flowing between the BB and the barrel and causing an opposing cushion. For some excellent practical evidence, Google Tanio Koba Twist barrels. They were airsoft barrels with rifling, tuned for 1J, that spin the air around the BB. Because they have cut grooves along the top, yet shoot normally, they prove that the BB does not ride along the top or rattle around,

My science knowledge is misty as it goes back many decades - and also my barrel / projectile experience is with paintballs, which have the added effect of distortion under pressure whilst inside the barrel All the theories mentioned ring true with my recollection & experience, particularly the bent barrel which seems very wrong at first but effective when right (this was the Tippmann flatline) it does exactly as per the theory - drag in the curve causes backspin Next we had the Apex tip which is pretty much the same thing as an airsoft hop An adjustable rubber element gives backspin, but the tip can also be rotated to change the angle of the backspin (spoiler in the following video but he rated it as ‘it sucks’ - it does give backspin and additional range, but can impact on consistency - I have a team mate who puts in all the practice, he was an apex ninja and as a result could place a ball where he wanted it to go - though this was courtesy of numerous factors with the Apex as just one of them to adjust the spin) https://youtu.be/Vfgi_AwdTR8 Flatlines and Apexes have had their day, some will still use them, but most will go for bore matching a barrel / insert with the ball - and everyone has a different preference that they swear by of bore match, overbore or under bore Still to add are the consistency of the gun itself to reliably send the ball out of the chamber, and the length of the barrel which must be long enough to allow the ball to accelerate but not so long that any drag/bounce along the barrel is so much that it loses the energy that was gained in acceleration Consistency and practice are key - consistency gives you a reliable benchmark and practice let’s you first understand the combined effects and fine tune each in turn

Given that a hop rubber with a bit of silicon lube on it loses its ability to impart backspin, I'd say the effect of a BB touching the sides of a clean polished barrel will be fairly negligible. But as you say it's really all guesswork with no evidence. The makers of wide bore barrels claim great things, but I've watched a video where testing showed they tended to be less accurate. Too many variables in play, and not enough science, so far. (I daydreamed of a glass barrel so someone could actually film the BB traveling along, but I suspect in reality even that would effectively be impossible due to the realities of manufacturing difficulties and costs, refraction affecting observation etc)

I have been slightly obsessed with the Crye MR-C after the Ghost Recon Advanced Warfighter game 'back in the day'. The gun itself was never more than a mockup - but I've always wanted to build one, even sketching out the idea in photoshop ~15 Years ago: I have been learning to use Plasticity 3D recently and I love it - so as a learning exercise I decided to try and build a 3D model of the MR-C based off the very few reference images of the real thing (there are loads of references of the in-game model but they are not particularly accurate) Mockup Pics: WIP Plasticity 3D: Quick and dirty Fusion360 Renders: Still got a fair bit to do - I'm not 100% happy with the grip shape and the mockups didn't have triggers, so I'll have to guess on that. I will also model the Grenade Launcher at some point too. Not sure if I can build it into any kind of functional airsoft gun - it would make a pretty cool wall-hanger.

Take the motor and bevel in hand, and spin them together to find the optimal motor height--the easiest most proper fitment will feel right. You then need to fully close up your gearbox with the bevel in it and screw the motor grip on. From there, adjust the motor height until it reaches the height your hand test showed. Next, add very small shims beneath the bevel until there is about 0.1-0.3mm of play in the bevel gear. It's important to do all testing with the gearbox tightly screwed shut. Full contact is good. You want the bevel gear to have a hair of play between it and the pinion, but it looks like your bevel is rather low to my eyes. After you shim the bevel to pinion, you can add shims to the top until you hopefully end up with just a hair of play. The way I personally measure if I've done it right is by tilting the gearbox side to side, when screwed fully shut. If the bevel gear rotates on its own, yet has maybe 0.1mm of up and down play, I know it's right.

Going to be a bit of a wall (such a glorious wall that I'm scared the FBI is going to raid my house and throw me in jail), so I will add a TL:DR at the end with some key points for those who don't want/need to understand the physics and mathematics behind our hobby. Ok, so I've done a LOT of research into BB weight and ballistics due to my interest in long distance shooting in airsoft. Also, please bear in mind that this is, at the end of the day, a layman's explanation of this. I'm operating on A-level mathematics and GCSE physics here, and I haven't done them in about a decade. It's also really hard to explain this without a whiteboard or sheet of paper to draw diagrams and stuff, so bear with me I'll do my best to keep it accessible! So, the maths behind our hobby! Kinetic energy is calculated by 1/2 x mass x (velocity x velocity), using brackets as order of operations means we do the squaring before the multiplication but it's easier to show this way exactly what I'm doing. However we can't just translate that to airsoft measurements of fractions of a gram and feet per second, as joules are calculated using mass in kg so really really small numbers in our context and velocity in metres per second, not feet per second. So a 0.2g BB shot at 328fps, which is 100m/s would calculate as: Energy = 1/2 x 0.0002 x (100 x 100) Energy = 0.0001 x 10000 Energy = 1J Only reason I used 328fps instead of 350fps is to avoid plaguing you with weird numbers and make the example easier to follow. Really, feet per second is annoying and we should be using metres per second since it's easier to work with in terms of energy calculations. It's why springs are m100, m120 etc, as they're designed in m/s rather than ft/s. What we can take away from this is that mass and velocity work in tandem to calculate joules (I know, I'm big smart for drawing such a conclusion). However we need to briefly consider momentum to understand ballistics; my physics teacher always described momentum as "how much something will hurt when it hits you" and is a lot simpler than kinetic energy. Momentum = mass x velocity. Easy. I'm not going to bore you with the calculations I'm doing for this example now, but I'm looking at 1.14J on a .2 and on a .48 as a comparison. That's 350fps on a .2 and 226.1fps (1 decimal place) on a .48. We can already see that momentum is going to be very different, but for argument's sake... momentum = 350 x .2 = 70 gram feet per second momentum = 226.1 x .48 = 108.5 gram feet per second (1 decimal place) So a heavy BB fired with the same kinetic energy as a lighter BB has more momentum (just over 50% more!). This is why when someone point blanks you with a .48 from a 1J pistol and says "stop crying, it's only 1J" is talking bollocks. Do I think we should be operating on momentum-based rules for airsoft? Hell no, that would be cancerous, but it's a consideration that I feel comes under the golden rule of "don't be a dick". However, this also goes a LONG way to explaining why heavy BBs tend to go further than lighter BBs; they simply have more momentum pushing forwards due to how physics works (the old example was if I throw a balloon vs if I throw a cricket ball with the same kinetic energy, which goes further). However, there's one last thing to consider when it comes to range and that's deceleration, as the BB is being affected by a number of things trying to slow it down and drop it to the ground, namely air resistance and gravity respectively. Hop up creates a backspin to give the BB an upwards lift to combat gravity, but combating air resistance isn't happening. I won't go into the mathematics on this as deceleration past GCSE level is really maths intensive (I would probably have to break out calculus and trigonometric functions to explain my point), but essentially an object moving at a higher velocity has more air resistance acting on it, so that BB travelling faster actually has more pushback from Mother Nature than a slower BB. Furthermore, that air resistance is going to have more effect on a lighter weight projectile as lower mass makes it easier to push back, so a combination of higher air resistance and more impactful air resistance means that a lightweight BB fired at the same energy is going to slow down and lose that energy a hell of a lot faster than a heavy projectile. Anyway, I hope you're all still awake after that (I find it fascinating, but I know not everyone does), but now I'll move into airsoft specific phenomena like joule creep and cylinder to barrel ratio. With AEGs, it's rare that power goes up with weight but it is possible. I couldn't explain to you in detail how the maths works out, but essentially there's a sweet spot for ammo weight with most guns and it varies dependant on inner barrel length and cylinder size. What tends to happen is that shorter barreled AEGs are more efficient with heavier ammo, but longer barreled AEGs tend to drop in power with heavier BBs due to voluming issues; the cylinder doesn't have enough air to fill the barrel so the BB starts to decelerate while it's still in the barrel, meaning that a heavier BB that comes out slower originally will start to have forces working against it (friction with the barrel and air resistance) sooner by fractions of a second, but it all affects it. It all depends on if there's enough air in the cylinder to fill the barrel. Look up cylinder to barrel ratio for a better explanation than I can give; I don't use AEGs much and they're the only guns I don't tech myself because I'm useless with gearboxes. Also, as has been said, heavier ammo typically needs more hop pressure to be applied which can also drop your power (as at the end of the day you're adding some resistance to the BB's flight path. Assuming you have enough air volume in an AEG, or if you're using another platform like a GBB, then heavy ammo will typically cause your power to go up due to joule creep as long as you're not having to apply incredible amounts of hop to lift them. The BB will accelerate while it's in the barrel as long as there's something to push it, which for a gas gun is the gas expanding when it leaves the magazine, so a longer barreled gas rifle will have a higher power than a shorter barreled gas rifle as it has more space to accelerate before leaving the barrel; it's the same as real-steel firearms, a long barreled AR-15 will shoot better at longer range than a short barreled AR-15 assuming the same ammo due to acceleration in the barrel. So why am I saying any of this? Well, it's the considerations part of your question. With AEGs you need to consider cylinder to barrel ratio and with gas guns you need to consider barrel length. In both you need to consider the hop setup and how much you need to apply to lift the BB and the barrel diameter also impacts power; wider = less power, tightbore = more, as there's less space for air to escape past the BB in a tightbore so it has to push the BB out to escape the inner barrel, which at the end of the day is what the gun is trying to do with all that air and is why air seal is so important for consistency, as the air will seek to escape from wherever it can. Now in terms of the benefits, a heavier BB will tend to have a more stable trajectory, has a bit more punch to get through foliage and will retain its kinetic energy for longer, though we're talking about fractions here. Will a .32 be all that different to a .28? Not really, but will a .48 perform differently to a .2? It most certainly will but I think often times people over-estimate the difference in BB performance. Wind will still carry a .48 off to Narnia and a leaf will still deflect a .48; trust me, speaking from experience there as a bolt action enjoyer who has watched many shots through my scope go their own way because of wind or leaves in the way. Really, punching through foliage requires volume of fire as opposed to weight of BB and I think "go heavy to punch through foliage" is a false economy. Even my .48s fired at 2.3J have issues punching through foliage and I usually try to post the shots through empty spaces in the bushes rather than going through any leaves; precision over power. Anyway, I feel like I've gone on enough about this. Thank you for coming to my TED talk on BB weight and the physics behind our hobby. In short: Heavier BBs fired at the same kinetic energy as lighter BBs have more momentum, which is why it hurts more getting shot by heavy BBs, even at 1J Faster projectiles have more air resistance acting on them Lighter projectiles are more affected by air resistance Therefore lighter BBs travelling faster both have more air resistance acting on them and are more affected by said air resistance This means that heavy BBs will travel further as they have more momentum, less air resistance acting on them and are less affected by that air resistance (assuming your hop can lift them) Joule creep will cause power to go up in gas guns with longer barrels as the BB has more room to accelerate Cylinder to barrel ratio affects power (and consistency) in AEGs. Heavier BBs can up the power in short barreled AEGs, but tend to drop the power in long barreled ones If you want the absolute maximum performance of your gun you generally want to be as close to the power limit as possible with the heaviest BB that your hop will lift I will still call you a dick if you run .48s in a pistol, especially if you're shooting up close

@guyus10 - that exact battery came with my son's Cyma G36. I don't know if you've tried it out yet, in our case the battery doesn't last very long at all (think 30 mins or so). It may just be a duff, we've never actually used it on the field, only for test firing at home. Both been using LiPos from day one. If yours is okay, then aside from the decent suggestions above my vote is for the HTRC C240 Duo. Around £50 and can charge 2 batteries simultaneously. If you want to upgrade to LiPos instead of your NiMh then https://www.vapextech.co.uk have proven to be cheap and reliable. No affiliation but I've used them and have no complaints.

Did that come with a CYMA or similar? I regretted every penny that I sunk into NiMh. I mean, it works, but it's old tech, and lithium based batteries deliver higher current, even if the voltage is nominally lower. If you're not sure that you'll stick with airsoft, I'd suggest using the basic charger that came with it - while carefully monitoring the battery to check that it's not overheating while charging. If you're going to drop money, I'd recommend that it be on lithium (Li-Po, Li-Fe or even Li-Ion) plus a decent charger like a SkyRC S65 (other options are available). B6 chargers like the one suggests also work (I have one) but again: they're older tech.

hopefully they aren’t malice clips

https://www.amazon.co.uk/HTRC-Lipo-Battery-Charger-80W/dp/B08P7JCRT3/ref=sr_1_8?crid=D2C2Y204TAM9&keywords=smart+lipo+charger&qid=1691759423&sprefix=smart+lipo+charger%2Caps%2C68&sr=8-8 IO have an old version of this with a blance board and it serves me vey well - I can do 6 batteries at once with it.

Welcome Electric pistols tend to be more reliable than gas ones, especially in colder weather, but are usually underpowered compared to the gbb ones with them firing at 220 - 240fps.

Genuinely, thank you. There's far too much "friendly first warning" stuff at sites. Without consequences, the only lesson learned is that there are no consequences.

One of my mates is a sneaky bugger and has caused a few teams to nearly get into big fights over repeated so called friendly fire. Only for a marshal to intervene and suggest that maybe they clear the area better because that isn't friendly fire... At least in those cases the players weren't deciding it didn't count, but got salty when they respawned for the 3rd time only to get shot in the back as they pushed up again lol. I've had to explain a few times to people on my team that the reason I can tell there is an enemy player nearby is because you can clearly hear them shooting. I wouldn't want someone with such dubious awareness to be making judgement calls on whether or not a hit they took was a ricochet. If you aren't sure if you have been hit, you've been hit.

Lost count of the number of times when marshaling a players been reported as not taking their hits, so I've given them an "honesty shot" usually with a pistol from behind in the butt from 40-50ft, & the player rubs where he's been hit but carries on playing.......... Well at least until I whisper in his ear to "go take 10 mins in the safe one & think about whether you want to keep playing today" 😏. No different from what we're discussing here, they make an assumption it's probably friendly fire (or they're not taking ANY hits) & play on....... Wankers🤬

Peanut buttered an LMT

Latest arrival GHK SIG 553 Bloody hell it’s SOLID Full steel construction, the only thing not steel is the aluminium top rail The Ceracote finish is lovely, more a green/grey than grey Cant wait to try this out tomorrow😍

As promised...

I'm a big fan of the Cyma mp5 models. The mp5sd6 isn't one of their platinums, but I have their non-platinum mp5k and it's one hell of a workhorse of a gun. Swapped the hop rubber and nub and it's performing incredibly well. The body on mine is a little wobbly, but that's more because I dropped it on the concrete floor at AI500 in Dover and two parts that hold the upper and lower receiver together snapped off (it's still fine as the pins hold it in place, but there's a bit of wobble). I think if I was going to get a full-size mp5 (probably won't as I have an mp5k, mp9 and plan on getting an mp7), I'd go for a Cyma again.

Double gap pistol kywi became two pistol mag holders. One had the kydex insert trimmed to allow a speedloader to sit fully in the pouch. Added the modded one to the side of the Spiritus MkV to allow me to reload 3 MWS mags on the go. Saves lugging another 1.5kg of mags around 😁

More revolvers. Sorry.

A little job for @Arrtee99 Making a schofield both shorter and also adding a hop, and a little bit of fettling to make the action a bit smoother.

I am intrigued as to how he managed to post a sales ad so soon after joining, without making any posts.

Sorry my bad, SHS gears. Moved onto doing my sons V3 gearbox, just a shim job and a check. Good job too, a nice surprise from the factory...... No major sign of damage on any gears, I guess he got lucky.... But... I have the gearbox open so seems silly not to upgrade, his cylinder head leaks air as well, it slowly loses compression when being compressed coincidently it has the same cylinder head as mine and mine had the same issue. There also wasn't a drop of grease/silicon lube on the cylinder rails. £350 each and nothing but piss poor quality control right out of the box.