MuPPeT_ON_TouR

I couldn't say who makes the motor, it's a standard stock one, no identifying marks on it at all. Will not play with the motors on these till they go bad, or I get bored and want a gate titan. Found the pinion and pinion puller.... new gears and pinion on way for son's gun and mine. The shiming job done was probably ok, it was the extra sprinkle of lose shims that over did it.

Sorry my bad, SHS gears. Moved onto doing my sons V3 gearbox, just a shim job and a check. Good job too, a nice surprise from the factory...... No major sign of damage on any gears, I guess he got lucky.... But... I have the gearbox open so seems silly not to upgrade, his cylinder head leaks air as well, it slowly loses compression when being compressed coincidently it has the same cylinder head as mine and mine had the same issue. There also wasn't a drop of grease/silicon lube on the cylinder rails. £350 each and nothing but piss poor quality control right out of the box.

All done. definitely sounding better, on closer inspection of the pinion I could see a shiny spot on the edge, so pretty sure it wasn't making good contact from the factory setup. Anybody know if new pinion gears with a better fit to HSS gears are available? Not going to redo just for that but next time gearbox is open I might as well. Now getting 13.4 RPS up from the 11.8 I was getting. No change on the FPS, I wasn't expecting any.

Thank you Leo. Fitted motor pinion to bevel gear by hand and it's tightest with the motor pinion at an angle to the drive gear. Can you get better pinion gears with an angle more matching the bevel gear? As this isn't achievable right now the next best thing was pushing the motor further in, there is now a tiny bit of play in the bevel drive and pinion gear but putting an extra 0.1 shim in removed all play to the point I think it is pushing the pinion gear up. Your advise has made me more comfortable it is as good as it can be, at least for me and has to be better than stock. Rocking the box back and forth the bevel gear does move but adding 0.1 shim stops it so again your tips have helped. Thanks again.

Hi, I've stripped and cleaned me gear box and I'm fitting a new set of SHS 16:1 gears. Not doing motor so only going for a small upgrade from 18:1 to 16:1. Pointless to many, and I would agree, but gears that were in it were rusty.. long story (see my very first post in the AEG section). I wanted to do a shim job to both learn and clean/maintain the gearbox. Anyhow, the reason I've said the above is so this doesn't stray off topic for what I would like help with. First gear.. the motor pinion, setting the height. I've set it so it's aligned with the bevel drive gear, not to high, the outer edges are alinged, I believe this is correct. Now setting the height of the bevel drive gear to the pinion, this seems to need a lot of shims to me to get the right height... But I don't know. Can anybody confirm? Motor pinion, this is the first pic. I moved it up from this original position to remove the slight overhang of pinion to bevel if that makes sense. Below shows the height needed to make contact between pinion and bevel (I know full contact is bad, I will leave a baw hair of play) Is this too much shimming? Will it cause me issues with the next 2 gears? Thanks for any help.

Mine and my sons. I am the generic M4 player.

Thank you both Rogerborg & Leo Yes, still 1999 up here. Springs are all XT branded from AK2M4. Watched a few YouTube vids last night on nozzles to see if mine was ok and NOT ONE motioned doing this. My nozzle makes what I think is OK contact with the bucking lips and it goes back enough to allow a BB to feed. Will try the paper test and see what happens. The 0.2g BB's I'm using come in a milk carton and are what was left over from our initial rental games. I have purchased Warhead 0.25g to play with... Will check for consistency with the .25 but as said my site chrono with .2's so will need to measure FPS off them. Unfortunately my garden is just over 20m so I'm unable to set an accurate hop, I should be on the low side so will lose a bit more FPS when I get to set it at the field. As always thanks to all for the information and help getting mine working. I still have my son's AUG and AK to look at but they both worked fine out the box, I have cleaned the barrels and given them a light polish.. As long as the weather holds then first game with no RENTALS is Sunday. I will then look to change gearset to a 16:1 with a ETU added, when this is successful and stable it will be a semi locked DMR build on a SCAR H SSR, so need my M4 to be reliable and consistent.

Swapped to a 430mm long barrel, hidden in the normal mock suppressor. M95 0.2g BB - NO HOP 334 FPS M100 0.2g BB - NO HOP 361 to 365 FPS M105 0.2g BB - NO HOP 388 + FPS My field limit is 360 so settled on the M100 with hop sits at 348 to 355. Does this look right or could there be sealing issues?

It works! Had to shave down one tooth a little as the AEO had changed a smidge. Run a bit of 3000 grit over the inside of the port on new cylinder for peace of mind. Used some Teflon tape over the hop unit/barrel washer to hold it in place. Used many many 4 letter words directed at springs and I got 322FPS from an XT M95 spring, its only a 320MM barrel. Will try bigger springs & a longer barrel when it arrives.

Thank you Leo, perfect insights for me and will defo follow up with the "Long Range AEGs" post and forum, will be some night time reading. The double seal cylinder head has the smaller/thinner of the rubber pads available I have seen so I hope will act as good as a plastic one for shock absorption, the plastic one had no pad. The AOE was very far forward, 1 o'clock or more, so the pad will help push it back I believe, I will just shave down the teeth as necessary and leave as is. Proper AOE can will till i get into the gearbox and learn more as mentioned prior. The GB does have some healthy radiuses in the corners so I hope the shell will last. The original nozzle was wobbly on the piston head and the tube it fitted over was tarnished and oxidised, I thought this was a factor of the O ring but will revaluate the nozzle to piston head tube bit fit when it arrives. The air leaked when just holding finger over the tube bit with no nozzle fitted, it was worse with the nozzle in place. The cylinder I will look forward to testing to see what noise/performance(Accuracy & FPS) differences there are if any. The barrel and hop unit out the box was a bit ruff looking, the olive(brass O ring bit) was held in with what I now know is a kind of thread lock they used as a general purpose filler/glue. Now I have cleaned it the brass ring just falls out and slides down the barrel... Anybody know how to hold it in place, or where to buy the glue stuff? For the bucking have have opted for the ubiquitous maple leaf Macaron and MR, hop and nub... yes, I panicked and went for both... I have three RIFS to play with so it will not get wasted. I knew being Evike meant rebranded.. and there was an inherent risk. But I really liked this design, It was hard to find another I liked the look of that would have had potentially had better QC .... As much as we all know every M4 looks the same more or less, thanks to Fatboy40's insightful and helpful comments so please don't apologise. It was exactly the "funky end" that I liked with the M-Loc hand guard... and the more vertical hand grip and the more milled out receiver design and the 45 degree fire selector... But he is right, all M4's look like the M916 and shame on me for not buying better build quality.

Because I can't leave anything along for very long I cleaned the barrel, I have been waiting on some polish and IPA. Polish was used to remove oxidation this time only and not to "polish" the barrel, it was then cleaned with the IPA. Easy to see by eye but next to impossible to picture but there are ridges all the way down the barrel. I'm pretty much set on buying a new barrel at this point but I don't mind finding justifications to make me feel better about it. Are these normal? is it further evidence of poor quality?

The M4 is EMG F4 Defence Licensed F4-15, I don't believe EMG make them but I don't know who does, does anybody? Gear box is a Dytac Ver.2 QD 8mm w/ Acetech MOSFET. The GB shell seems pretty good, but it's the first I have seen in the flesh so not sure my opinion counts for much. To be clear when I say we overpaid, we overpaid for the looks, we were not overly concerned with the performance as I think all RIF's have issues with corners getting cut. To my mind the performance can be fixed, mainly by throwing money at it, but the look of your gun can't. I just didn't want people pointing out we could have got better for the money, especially seeing as mine has issues out of the box. Performance wise they will be 100% correct, but I bought the RIF's I like the look of and was prepared to sort any issues, though I didn't think that would be on day 1. Not sure I'm ready for a shimming job yet. Will fix the air parts first so I can at least use it, then move onto the inner barrel and hop unit. Then finally look at GB and motor with an ETU, not going DSG but 16:1 or even 13:1 seems doable for me.

Hi, Brand new out the box M4, my first RIF so wanted to keep it basic. I will be the generic M4 player for a while. This was 1 of three RIF's bought via Evike. An M4 for me, and a AK and an AUG for my sons, the AK and M4 took just over 5 weeks to get to me from the US via France to the UK... These where absolutely the RIFS's we wanted, and I mean the way they look. We did over pay but buy once and cry once was my thought here, at least if they look right then anything else can be fixed or repaired.... or upgraded. As the title says the M4 was just 170 FPS for the first 8 shots. I contacted Evike and to their credit they have since offered to take the RIF back for repair and perform an upgrade. But the cost of shipping it back and the thought of playing with another RENTAL! on Sunday while my kids run around with their new guns made the rage start. Three games with rentals to get my UKARA was enough for me, besides that, before Evike replied I already took the orange tip off and the gearbox out so kissed good bye to the warranty 🙂 What I found inside was disappointing, the piston O ring swimming in sticky oil/grease so it couldn't expand and seal. After that was cleaned it sealed inconstantly, air would leak past the cylinder head and was even worse when the nozzle was on. The gears are also rusty and had no discernible lube on them... I guess they stuck all they had on the piston head. All the O rings seem dry/shrunk/flat and I suspect this RIF has been sitting about for a while, but this is only a suspission. Long story short I reached out to the guy from AK2M4 and was very happy with how fast he replied and didn't try and sell me 100's of new bits I didn't need, he recommended new seals, clean up the gears, lube them and a couple of other things that were inexpensive, it was only after I pressed him for upgrades he obliged my desire for shinny new bits with some recommendations. I have on the way: POM piston head, don't like the thought of aluminium ones scraping down the cylinder. Aluminium Double seal cylinder head, it come with a plastic one Double seal nozzle, 2 is better than one New cylinder 4/5th, the RIF come with a full cylinder and only a 320mm inner barrel. I understand there is an air to inner barrel ratio, but not learned the specifics yet. The inner barrel is also a bit bent, rolling on a flat surface and a torch shows more light coming under from the hop up end, I did plan on a new barrel and have an excuse now but that can wait till I have at least had a game with it, will see if the bend effects it to much. The reason for the post is this is a lot more involved than I thought I would be with a new RIF, I figured I would learn slowly. I will use this post to update and ask for help with any other problems I find. Any help or advice as I try and fix the issues are welcomed and encouraged.