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well to be completely honest... is fairly accurate at times

No ones picked up on the **brand new** aspect yet either. Does it have a warranty? Can we return it to be fixed if it goes wrong or doesn’t work as stated? No, therefore it’s SECONDHAND

Longtime lurker, first time poster. I blame this thread entirely for encouraging me to buy and modify an MWS 😁 (thanks?). Have had a number of AEGs and GBB pistols, but this was my first venture into GBBRs. I stupidly decided to go down the expensive and difficult route of modify my first MWS to recreate John Wicks TR-1, albeit with a few minor changes. It's more akin to the current version sold on Brownells as opposed to the version seen in the movie. A little bit of both I guess. So far its mostly externals, but I intend on working on the internals as well. Once I have some more money that is 😅. AngryGun John Wick Conversion Kit (TTI TR-1) AngryGun High-speed Bolt Carrier (FDE) & MPA Nozzle AngryGun AMBI Charging Handle AngryGun Rear Receiver QD Mount BCM MOD-3 Keymod Forgrip BCM MOD-3 Gunfighter Pistol Grip BCM Gunfighter Stock BCM Trigger Guard BCM Keymod Panels GunsModify MWS Steel Dust Cover J P Enterprises 45º Canted Rail CYMA Quick Detach Dual Scope Mount (30mm) RMR Red-Dot Sight (Clone) VisionKing 1.25-5x Rifle Scope IronAirsoft PMag (Just for show. Terrible mags!!!!!) PMag Base Plate/Extension

Achievement unlocked: Discovered capitalism

Perst-4 from Zenitco landed today.

I'll hold my hand up and say that firstly it was me who flagged up the ad, no salt is given, it's not us who won't sell a £130 pistol for £700. "Not jumping to conclusions without knowing anything", it's your sales ad, maybe you could have put more information in so personal conclusions weren't needed? I have never heard about tuning for accuracy on a gun, what is there you can actually affect other than the hop up? I appreciate you have gone to extensive lengths on the Capa but really do think you're going to struggle selling as a complete piece for the money you are doing. May have a lot more luck taking your time and splitting it down and the parts off and then the pistol in it's stock format. Yes you're leaving the sport and undoubtedly want a quick and easy out but I'm 99% certain you won't get that with what you're doing.

If I was going to drop £700 on a pistol I would be speaking to Mike from elite shooting I doubt he would tell me It needs tuned when I got it. Also would come with a 12 month guarantee and his excellent support.

OK so I'm not saying this is a "super-mega-ripoff-OMG" but surely something which is as custom as this is done to an individual taste so finding someone to buy it in the first place would be like a needle in a haystack but then for this amount of money? I appreciate the parts list is extensive but it still is marked as needing "accuracy tuning" 😐 If you were at the level where you'd be spending that much on a Hi-Capa wouldn't you likely want to be building your own anyway?

I just ordered one of these bad boys to put in an ASG Scorpion Evo DSG setup. Fingers crossed for an epic AEG DSG build!! Wish me luck!

It "sounds" like hop issue to me but I don't own one A quick test to do first: with box & hop out... when the nozzle is fully forward 101% place hop unit up against the box... you should "feel" the nozzle starting to seal against the bucking lips with still say a bit more to go before the hop rests 101% against the front of box then in normal operation the nozzle "should" be sealing properly If the above test is all OK then it could be a nozzle/tappet issue (the tappet is catching, not returning 101% in use) Or try std nozzle, sand tappet front a little but sounds like the nozzle is never sealing against bucking properly like the lips are way short of sealing with nozzle and air is pissing out or nozzle used is not sliding/aligned with hop correctly like a fat nozzle that is tight fit or catching against the hop and stopping it sealing (some nozzles - the "shoulder" can be too wide/fat on some hops & catch or drag in operation eg: some brand new G&G M4 hops are a bit of pinch with a SHS M4 nozzle & risk snagging) Your fps is way way way low you gotta test that the nozzle does seal against the bucking lips get them out - mate them up and see if you feel a bit of resistance from bucking lips they should just start to touch and you should have near 1mm gap from box say so when the hop is mated up properly there is a good seal of nozzle to bucking lips If that works out OK, next thing is to grow another pair of hands.... plop a bb into hop/barrel, mate it all up and chrono a few times... might take a few attempts to get it to fire a bb through chrono etc.... but hopefully you get a shot or two off through chrono.... if that says 300fps instead of 150fps or whatever you are getting then issue is the assembly of hop to box or the hop being shifted away from box when mag is inserted like it can happen on M4's if no spring or stuff pressing hop back towards box It "sounds" like bucking is way away from nozzle and think it "might" be poor alignment or tight fit nozzle or hop shifting forwards never letting nozzle seal properly (be it mag shifting it forwards or some other weird shit) break it down - the box & hop break down the problem testing them with 3 hands that they do kinda seal OK & chrono if that checks out then it is an alignment or fitting issue in gun - quite possible if you can feel it sealing with you holding the hop/box together then the bucking is not fitted correctly or needs investigating or nozzle/tappet issue (might have to go back to stock bits n bobs to get it working again & go from there) it is a process of elimination in most cases, often shit goes out of whack with more new parts but I'm tending to think if parts are compatible then something in the box/hop alignment has gone out of whack you got a m95 spring delayer 13:1 etc.... what battery you using and what motor - in other words what rps ??? I mean you got a delayer on it but what sort type ??? I doubt if tappet timing is an issue unless you are using a massive delayer & enormous fin but depending on tests... another area to consider is the chunky SHS sector with a chunky axle could be impeding the tappet returning 101% so the nozzle does not return fully coz the tappet fin is stopped by chunky axle on sector gimme a sec... pic says 1,000 words - see the sector axle & fin needed a bit of modding to prevent the tappet being stopped short on sector axle... now this mod was coz I sanded the thick front of SHS tappet, but it can risk catching a bit anyway (ahh the good ol' TM compatible bollox), when you start changing stuff The friggin' attention details on EVERY f**king part you change should NEVER be taken for granted coz this TM compatible BS means next to nothing - some shit works but often it don't just drop in many bits need checking and often a bit of sanding or tweak to ensure it works 101% as it should your nozzle "might" be risk being restricted by the fin stopping short on a chunky SHS sector BUT I don't know for certain in your case but it CAN happen in some builds (and SHS gears are quite chunky) Or - you could have the fin snagging on chunky shims on a low sector that a big diameter shim on top of sector starts to catch the fin at times in operation (it is rare but I always save smaller external diameter shims for top of sector) than use big fat diameter shims on top of sector.... or at least use smaller shims first on sector and a fatty shim last (you get the idea - watch out for potential fin snagging on sector axle/shims) but there are loads of things it "could" be a bit more info, a few tests an a pic or two could help, but a few ideas to try hope some of this crap helps PS - soz for overload/long post - but do the hand hop/box test first before you start stripping down stuff I suggest It is going to be something really really stupid & silly so don't go ultra nutz tearing things apart though maybe consider some of the crap and check EVERYTHING & EVERYWHERE when you starting changing & altering things in future builds to reduce potential headaches (if shit can go wrong then Murphy's Law says it will regarding TM Compatible crap)

And all you had to do to save the cash was undercut the actual inventor and stifle innovation. Bargain! Those clones are the reason that we never got factory-supported magazine adaptors and it took 5 years and counting for new models to come to market. If they'll continue to prioritise the cheapest possible product at the expense of innovation and quality, airsofters really have no-one but themselves to blame when they get sold shitty, obsolete products that don't work properly out of the box or break shortly thereafter. It's not a coincidence that in 1995 a mobile phone looked like this and in 2020 looks like this, but a 2020 M4 AEG gearbox looks exactly the same as a 1995 one. It's not a coincidence that local airsoft retailers are going out of business (especially in the States) because people would rather save a paltry amount of money than support any actual customer service. It's not a coincidence that Magpul withdrew from their partnership with PTS in disgust and as a result we can't get PDR-Cs or FPGs any more. There is a direct link between people forcing manufacturers into a race to the bargain basement and manufacturers not having any incentive to make innovative products. The "I would never pay £x for x, so they haven’t lost a sale by me purchasing a rip-off" argument sucked when it applied to pirating music, films and videogames and it sucks here. People buying it is the reason it’s produced. The entitlement of "I want it, but I don’t want to pay for it" is frustrating. It apparently cost TM $1m in 2008 dollars to develop the NGRS system; how are they supposed to recoup the first significant investment in AEG design since they invented the AEG if consumers set an arbitrary limit of "no more than twice the cost of a bargain basement clone of your old gun"? It’s especially irritating with straight clones like the M12 because the clone literally doesn’t do even one single thing better than the original, except be cheap and poorly made. Even CYMA have improved over TM in important ways like having metal receivers. I fully support and will buy things that obviously borrow heavily from an existing design if it’s improved - I’ll happily buy an VFC, because even though it’s mostly a TM clone they’ve massively improved it by making it steel and wood rather than plastic and plastic. This is all far from unique to the Sidewinder, it’s just especially annoying because it’s not the property of some huge faceless corporation. It’s literally one guy who designed an amazing product, put in a truly astonishing amount of his own money and time developing it, getting it manufactured, dealing it to distributors etc., and all so it could get ripped off and sold for profit by massive companies inside six months. At this stage it’s hard to tell if we deserve innovation. Anyway, apologies for dragging the thread off topic.

New slide came in the post this morning for my tm hi capa went for a gunsmith bros 66 gram slide, should look wicked with my silver metal barrel

If I can get a Twix in Poundland for 50p which would cost 90p in Waitrose...I'm buying it from Poundland. I would have a problem buying branded goods from such a retailer if it is cheaper than more traditional vendors.

Wow so much salt. The gun works flawless I have test fired it and it shoots very nicely. Everyone has their desired "tuning" so when I said it needs tuning, i mean tuning to taste. It out shoots all my other guns by far. Dont jump to conclusion without knowing anything sir. And for your information, I'm not selling it because it dont work as it should because it does, I'm selling it as I have stopped playing.

same guy whos wants £700 for his pistol which he has never skirmished. £150 he wants a stake home money + fees+ postage. Absolute joke as for "Used for a few games" my TRMR which I got second hand and have used for a year is less beat up. We have valued multi shots at £100~ add the primers and postage anything more than £115 is a bit of joke regardless of these being "rare".

Echoing the above statements, I don't think their advice or customer service is the best but if they have a known brand for a good price then I'd take a punt. Someone was trying to tell me only an idiot would buy from justBBguns but I got Marui G17 from them considerably cheaper than I could find anywhere else, it was no worse than a Marui G17 from any of the retailers who don't have "BB" in their name.

Inconsiderate postman woke me at 7 with my Skirmshop order.

Is JustBB still a bad company in 2020? think it is a bad company whatever the year or vintage (it ain't like fine wine that gets better with age) so is still a bad company... seriously they are the LAST company I would ever order from OnlyBBGuns or BBGuns4Less are a tiny tiny bit better than Jambwow But ONLY IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE BUYING !!! coz they still sell crappy plinkers mostly but they do sell some stuff that isn't complete $hit I'm NOT recommending this but here is an example.... https://bbguns4less.co.uk/products/cyma-cm517-m4-with-ras-handguard-in-blue.html Now that ain't bad at first glance with free ship & if you get a discount code BUT I will lay money that is gonna be a hot 390fps gun so needs downgrading so money you thought you might save over a 330fps one at a decent retailer or buying a better G&G Raider or something, will be lost getting it downgraded (or time for somebody to sort it out, plus still be a cheapo Cyma M4 model) So the best advice before parting with money on buying the best gun evvvaaaaaa is to have a butchers & pop back with some links of what you are considering Honestly - don't make some of mistakes many of us made buying stuff from Mickey Mouse Alright Geez Dominic at BBGuns4Less sells some half decent stuff (but most stuff on there is back garden plinky stuff) Same as Only - aka iWholesales sell some stuff but many are not so great So be careful what you fall in love with & not just the cheap pricing When buying your first gun...

Hold up !!!! this is an ongoing issue is it not ??? Now it "seems" that the cyma MP5 nozzle is a 21.4 ish nozzle... https://www.airsoftforum.com/topic/241139-massive-air-seal-nozzle-leakeage-on-a-cyma-mp5sd/ so it seems 21.4 to 21.5 ish is required... (also heard a Galaxy MP5k nozzle likes a SHS M4 too but the "shoulder" of red SHS M4 is too fat so needs modding to nozzle shoulder or modding/widen the Galaxy hop entry so chubby nozzle can operate smoothly) in other words not all MP5 nozzles are the usual MP5 length (different guns makes/hops work with different nozzle lengths than 1 size fits all) Also different nozzles sit differently or better/worse on some tappets... the clear cheapo cyma tappet is loose as f**k with a red SHS m4 nozzle (hence me using a SHS tappet but needs modding up front with cut outs for cyma box) What I might suggest is grab a SHS V2 tappet as these tappets retract most might be a bit bent, so straighten the right angle up front in hot water to true 90 degrees sand the front of tappet plate a bit, mod the sides up front to work in Cyma box if you sand the tappet front edge on a table with emery paper it will return a whisker further then you could carefully and very lightly sand the red M4 nozzle a whisker - just a whisker but as you sanded the front it will return to seal on hop unit/bucking... The new SHS tappet should retract further and allow a bb to chamber on a lightly sanded M4 nozzle (that still returns to seal as tappet front is sanded a bit) check for fin hitting axle of sector as in pic you may need to file it very slightly and very carefully smack bang in line with axle don't worry about not retracting long enough - delayers are not the solution to all feed issues a friggin' DSG fin is so short it retracts for a split second then returns... It is mostly about ensuring the tappet window is correct that is pulls back enough to chamber allowing a sprung loaded bb to slip in and chamber to bucking etc.... It don't matter shit if you got a mega delayer - if there is only 5.5mm room it will never chamber a 6mm bb past the nozzle so a long nozzle throws stuff out and seals great but feeding is shit or a shorter nozzle feeds great but seal is crap a worn fin, incorrect nozzle, protruding bucking lips and f**k knows what else will cause feed issues and V2 boxes have less overall retraction than V3's so on V2's the tappet window is more critical Yeah I'd be tempted to get a SHS v2 tappet, start modding the cutouts for Cyma box sand the front, check it is straight and 90 degrees, very very slightly sand the SHS M4 nozzle perhaps open box up, check & mark where fin meets sector axle - file with tiny round craft file at exact point check the tappet fully returns to front of box clearing the axle of sector as in pic Also check the tappet in TOP part of box with cylinder head, sector gear etc... check it doesn't bottom out on full retraction with cylinder head (SHS tappets do retract more) if delay clip is still on sector, check you don't feel a "bump" which is the delayer clip bumping the underside of tappet runner right underneath as the cam/delayer starts to engage the top of fin... if you feel this "bump" or slight resistance, then you need to lightly file the area about 1~3mm just in front of top of fin on the underside of tappet runner by the fin... BUT ONLY do this IF you feel a bump or resistance when testing in top half of box *** NB *** When I say 1~3mm I'm talking about the AREA or POSITION of AREA 1~3mm in front of fin NOT file off up to 3mm in depth - there will hardly anything left and fin would just tear off just a very light file around the few mm's just in front of tappet runner in front of fin Literally a very small filing & sanding just where cam might bump the runner If no "bump" is felt when testing it top of box - then don't worry about it, but important you check Test the tappet operation in top half of box - sounds weird but just do it When you test in the lower half there is too much play with sector wobble to truly check stuff So checking the final tappet retraction is much more accurate in top half of box (though you can't quite see the cam/fin operation, you see the full travel and feel for "bump") When all that is done, ensure the fin doesn't get stopped by axle, mod if needed (quite likely) then ensure smaller diameter shims are used as less likely to impede fin than jumbo shims IF tappet is risking bottoming out on cylinder head.... and IF you used one like this.... Look carefully at bottom of head and there is a small ridge.... Take off the o-rings, plop on a shitty old nozzle then file off that curved ridge at bottom CAREFULLY clean up and refit o-rings etc... Bit of f**king about but will gain you a potential extra 0.5mm to say 0.75mm or so space so tappet won't bottom out of cylinder head when retracting to its furthest point (the cylinder itself might be close to hitting the back of tappet but check in top box) if cylinder is just starting to touch the tappet, you could just file it very very slightly so that when you test (again in top half of box) it moves way way back and the whole operation is met with no resistance, no "bumps" or bottoming out and full complete return to front of box coz you carefully filed the fin by sector axle THEN you have a tappet that retracts as far back as possible & smoothly returns fully so you therefore have the largest tappet travel to give you a bigger tappet window With the correct nozzle in there, you should get a great seal and reliably feed bb's even on so-so mags THAT is about the best advice of everything I check for and nigh on every trick I have used to get max retraction etc... BUT as always it is down to YOU to check all this crap out and see if it all operates smoothly and effectively etc.... The SHS tappet will retract the most the round delayer I used in pic is brill, retracts more coz it has a bit of material over sector cam BUT using this delayer on SHS tappets that retract more does often mean it can bottom out and risk bumping tappet runner underneath It also retracts so much it bottoms out so need to give it some room to fully retract where ever possible But after all this f**king about, plus the modding for Cyma v2 boxes you will gain about 1mm extra retraction or just over that will greatly assist if not eliminate any feed issues (at least from tappet/nozzle retraction - w@nky bucking or hop or assembly alignment is another issue) As the V2's have about 1mm overall less tappet retraction than a V3 when stuff starts wearing like the fin, or nozzle spec or tolerances go just a tiny bit out of whack... you get fps loss or pi$$ poor feeding coz the allowance for nozzle clearing & sealing is so close As said if fin is worn, nozzle way too long, delayer will do little if fin hits axle, the tappet won't 101% fully return to seal so might need modding at axle area to ensure it returns if you look at Cyma's blue tappet you see they chopped the axle area... A SHS will need modding but found they retract a whisker more than other tappets so check some $hit out, do some tests order up a SHS tappet, use SHS M4 nozzle and do some tiny modifications for max tappet travel You MUST check for bottoming out coz if you allow it you will lose a whisker of retraction plus increased wear on fin or worse if tappet break/failure - so check $hit carefully !!! best of luck

tbh this industry is so notorious for people getting ripped off i'm surprised anyone is still bothering to come up with new ideas. i did buy an og odin, because i knew i wanted one and at the time the clones hadn't hit the market yet. touch wood it's never let me down and if it ever does i'll buy another legit one because to me the performance is well worth the money. it's a tricky balance, we need this hobby to be accessible, and that does mean on price. not everyone has the luxury of boatloads of disposable income to throw at what boils down to a bunch of toys. and maybe someone who buys a cheap clone thing might well decide they like the idea enough to buy a genuine one when the clone breaks. however, silver makes a very strong point that nobody will want to innovate in an industry where they know not even patents will save them from getting ripped off left right and centre, i can only imagine how shitty it must feel to pour your heart and soul into a product only to see your business fall flat out of the gate under a wave of cheap knock off's. end of the day everyone's going to make their own choice, for their own reasons, and there's damn all chatting about it on an internet forum is going to do to it.

This. Keep improving your product, so the competitors are left behind. Do it at a price that's not more than the double of the copies, do better marketing. Ideas will be stolen. Having a good idea and half assedly selling is not enough.

I thought Donald Trump was the only one with a knock-off tan? 🤣

Just got this in the mail

Not a RIF, but I just ordered a set of BULLE US woodland and woodland marpat (trousers, shirt and boonie), as well as a molle drop leg platform. Also a chicom chest rig for an upcoming Vietnam game, because why would I want to play as the Americans when VC sounds like so much more fun. It's my first ever Vietnam game

Bought a new Plan Beta ICU 2.0 gun camera recently. It came like many of them do with a leaky 3.7v lipo. Wouldnt work without it being plugged in. Considering it would have cost me more time and money to get a replacement which is also likely to have a leaky lipo. I decided to buy a replacement battery from China for 4 quid. Removed the old leaky battery. Soldered in the new one and wallah. It works with battery 🙂 My new cheapy action cam on my airframe helmet and mount. I wanted to use it for the first time tomorrow. But looking like the weather will be out of the question. Need to play around with it some more anyway!

Tier None Dual PVS14 bridge just arrived, now I need a second bird watching device..

This is exactly the reason I was so looking forward to the VFC MP7 AEG when it was first announced. It was the first truly new gearbox design in years and incorporated a bunch of features that are the direction all AEGs are going. I wanted to buy one immediately just to support the innovation. Unfortunately we know how that went. We got a £400 lemon that was somehow less reliable than the notorious GBB version. I'm just glad I never ended up getting one