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TM Famas with 4 mid caps and 1 Hi cap. TM Pump action with 7 30 round shells. TM Hi-CAPA 4.3 with 2 mags. £200 all in and meet a fellow enthusiast and all round good egg. Oh and a WE Holo Sight, Black Chest Rig, Gun bag, Bolle X800 goggles and other assorted odds and sods. .

Tactical pink blazer along with McDonalds happy meal forehead protection... For some reason the uber serious players did not like... I'll never understand why

plot twist! Former tech turns up. now, about those horror stories...

Ok guys laugh at your peril this is a ridiculous question but really wasn't sure so thought I'd ask.. Finally got my first AEG after using hires.. When I go to Skirmish next week and asked to Chrono my gun.. What exactly do I need to do? Is it a case of firing live BB's down the Chrinograph or do I leave it unloaded?

I can't see why either mate! Add some glitter to that gun and your loadout would be faaaaabulous!

I love my l86 I don't use a scope just a carry handle and bipod, running 11.1 lipo with a fatmag lol

Can definitely vouch for the L86, excellent gun. Down side is with the bipod and a Susat scope attached, it becomes very heavy.

I'm not going to go into the full mathematical proof & diagrams stylee an ting here (it is available in several of our threads devoted to eyepro) but you are entirely mistaken if you think that a fragment of BB which can fit through the gaps in any commercially available mesh used for eyepro can do you any harm. It basically comes down to the way BB's shatter and the way that the possible fragment shapes tessellate into a sphere. When you consider that fragments will be spinning (since Newton tells us that the angular momentum of the whole BB will be preserved in its fragments), then clearly no dimension of whatever shape of fragment can be longer than the largest hole available, which handily enough is just less than 1/2 the diameter of a BB, at 2.97mm (found in Hero Shark goggles). Since a BB cannot shatter leaving a sphere of diameter 2.97mm, the biggest shape possible is a tetrahedron and if the longest side can be 2.97mm then that takes 18 of them to make 1 BB. Each fragment therefore cannot carry more than 1/18th the energy of the whole BB, which is to ignore the energy loss absorbed by the elasticity of the mesh when hit, the same of any BB's hit by our theoretical shattering BB in a full auto stream, and the energy lost as heat and sound during the shatter - when you work out that a 500FPS 0.2g BB carries 2.32 Joules divided by 18 = 0.129 Joules you see it just doesn't matter about the complexities: the very maximum possible is so little that it can literally do bugger all to your eye. As i've said before elsewhere, I realise that this seems extremely counterintuitive... I mean sharp fragments, eyeball, must end in tears... but if you looked at the shapes of particles of dust, tiny fragments of plant material/insects, and for eg grains of builders' sharp sand, you would find equally sharp and sharper edges and points, yet the most these cause even when blown into your eye by strong wind is a mild itch which only becomes a problem if you rub your eye before rinsing said fragment/s out with clean water. From personal experience I can promise you that it is the same with shattered BB fragments - you just retire to the safe zone calling "Dead man walking!", while refraining from excessive blinking, and rinse your eye with several palmfuls of water. Obviously, just like with even the rounder, smoother grained, beach sand, if you rub your eye then you risk scratching the surface of your eyeball, which does itch/irritate like a bastard... If you're getting no problems with fogging then fine, but i've tried at least 30 different types of eyepro and i have yet to find any which do not hinder vision in some way or other, even if the lenses have exceptional optical properties, as at the very least on the biggest goggles going, the frames of which are the furthest out of potential sightlines, the point of view is narrowed, particularly down in front of you (which makes walking quietly through brush/rubble, while aiming in front of you, more difficult), but most polycarbonate lenses also cause occasional problems due to reflection and/or refraction. In my and apparently the majority of people's opinion however it is not a question of if a polycarbonate lens will either fog or rain out* but rather when. Certainly if you are very fit and do not exercise hard while wearing them, then the time it takes may be long enough to be irrelevant to most skirmish days, but even so may interfere with a full day's play during specialised days/weekenders. That said, my bet is that you have just not really sweated in them yet... (*Distortion caused by liquid sweat condensed out on anti-fog coated lenses.) In my opinion, if you can skirmish wearing a full face mesh mask without the limitations of the design, such as being unable to lift the lower half alone to eat sweets/gum and/or drink, problems when combined with helmets, visored caps, and/or comms equipment, or problems with cheek-weld/aiming over iron sights/low fitted optics, irritating you significantly, then you should stick with that alone. After considerable research into the various types of interwoven wire mesh and perforated sheet type 'mesh' it is my opinion that the type used in those fencing mask stylee full face masks provides the best tradeoff between safety, useability, optical properties, and durability: obviously they never fog/rain-out; the shadows created across your vision by the crossed wires being much closer than the focal length of typical points of view are smaller than those generated by the offset holes in any perforated sheet offerings, which translates into fewer instances of involuntary refocussing of your eyes close up, which instances ruin the optical illusion of there being nothing between your eye and your POV, plus they also 'reset the clock' on however long it takes before your brain regenerates said optical illusion again in any given environment; interwoven wire creates a higher ratio of space to metal than perforated sheet of similar strength, so there is less of a 'shades effect', which could be considered a con rather than a pro, however when you consider that said effect is caused by a physical barrier between your eye and what you are looking at, which means that more of what you are seeing is actually your brain's interpolation of what should be there compared to transparent but darkened polycarbonate lenses, and then realise that spotting well camouflaged people in foliage is all about recognising a known shape from very little, and some of it conflicting, information, then it becomes obvious that if being blinded by bright sunlight is a problem, then a visor of some sort is the answer, not reducing what you can actually see; there are meshes which provide an even greater ratio of space to metal, however the only commercially available eyepro which uses one (304 Stainless Steel 0.71mm wire #8 mesh) (made by Begadi) cannot be considered truly appropriate for airsoft since 1 burst of full auto would render them unsafe for continued use (it takes 17 hits into exactly the same spot on full auto at around 330FPS from 25mm range to get a BB through the mesh, so it is perfectly safe for any possible skirmishing hit since, even if you tried, you'd be bloody hard pressed to keep your head perfectly still while so many hits bounced off your eyepro) because they deform - this deformation rather than catastrophic failure improves the performance vs full auto BB fire since it causes BB's to get trapped in the growing dent which means that subsequent shots hit BB's not mesh, causing some to shatter, and absorbing some of their energy, however it also means that after a good burst it may only take a few, ie a likely number, of hits to cause sufficient deformation to allow penetration - that said, they are built into those ubiquitous £3-15 shades stylee frames** which are inappropriate anyway since they do not provide a seal around the eye hence a ricochet could hit the eye from behind, above, and especially below; the SS304 0.91mm wire #8 mesh these masks are made from is very durable - it takes sniper hits to cause deformation and even then it is only the likes of a single wire moved 0.3-4mm across 2 holes / 3 cross-wires ie something which could be easily repaired with needle nose pliers but would make no real difference if you just left it, because the friction between the crossed wires will prevent them moving further no matter how many site-legal hits are sustained on that exact spot subsequently. **There used to be some ACM ski mask style goggles fitted with this lighter weight mesh, but I haven't seen any for sale for about a year. I'd guess that these are marginally safer than the Begadi shades type, simply because there is more mesh so any point deformation is resisted by more wires crossed over each other around the hit area, thus providing greater friction - they also provide a seal between the frames and your face. I've skirmished a set many times and not felt the need to junk them yet despite several bursts to the face while wearing them, however I would not wear them to CQB where hits to the face are more frequent. Lol that turned into a longer waffle than i had intended, but hey ho, it's all pertinent info for noobs and also lurkers.

I played at the UCAP Bunker on Wednesday and was like a mobile lighthouse using my new Fenix PD35 (960 lumens on turbo and strobe!). Had a hire smg so the torch was handheld. Whilst not tactically sound, using white light did allow me to see where I was going to avoid trip hazards and in an attempt to learn more of the complex site. Still managed to get geographically challenged on several occasions, and ended in the opposition team re-spawn. As an aside, I think that the Bunker should have some decent mapping for players, especially the new ones, to help work out where they are. A location gets referenced for an objective but there is no way for new players to know where the hell it is or how to get there. It would be even better if a marshal gave a quick orientation tour. With more familiarity I hope that there will be less requirement for lights and more tactical play. Will go back to using a green filter for navigation. The regulars are like ninjas running around in the dark and taking out players in the back. Tracer fire does look impressive in the dark though.

High quality mesh is perfectly fine and thousands of people use it without issue; have been for years and years. If you skimp on the most important bit of your loadout and opt for super cheap eye pro you roll the dice on your eyesight, simple as. Whether it's really cheap mesh or really cheap plastic, if the quality is extremely low there's a good chance shots could get through (from any muzzle energy gun at any range).

I realise it's more a paintball shop than airsoft, but they do obviously have a lot of HPA stuff so I thought it was worth leaving the feedback for. Anyhoo, transaction was smooth and dispatch time was great; ordered an item at 2:30pm on Friday and it arrived today (Saturday) with standard delivery. Very happy with them.

Ok so does anybody else have an unhealthy obsession with buying airsoft guns or is it just me? Current list: Ics l86 a2 Army l85 a1 Ics m4 cqb Krytac m4 spr Jg mp5 Cyma mp5k Trishot shotty Tm 1911 Tm px4 We hi capa 3.8 We 7" dragon Tremor grenade Tornado grenade

My latest project - Started out as a JG MP5SD6. I gave the gearbox a basic cleanup and upgrade, new piston, silent head and nozzle, new bearings properly shimmed and greased, popped in a guarder high speed motor, a madbull tightbore, guarder rubber and H-nub, fixed the hop lever to lock in place once set. Cleared out the suppressor and refilled it with tool chest liner matting as it was just an echo chamber. Gives a really nice rof and range. Externally I hated the folding stock, it kept retracting as I was aiming. Fitted an ICS M4 stock tube adaptor and sling mount with a nice light CAR15 stock. Might swap it out for a magpul CTS stock though. Front grip is an ICS pro large handguard with a stubby foregrip and a nice big cree tac torch. Put an aimpoint sight on a low profile mount on top and its my goto CQB weapon.

If your AOE is out and you're running an 11.1v lipo on full metal teeth, your gearbox is in for a bad time. Previously the piston stripped because it was a weak point (which in a piston can be a good thing), but now that it's been strengthened you will quite likely be looking at something else breaking.

The ideal number of guns is represented by the following equation: X=n+1 where n is the number of guns you have and x is the number of guns you want.

welcome also to the best toy gun forum out there nice collection - I'm sure you and Russell may have probably exchanged fire no doubt

Hey, welcome to the forums.

you can leave the gun cocked over night..... or some other temp fix..... you can slide off top receiver....... now if you place a few layers of tape - gaffa or electrician's tape at front of gearbox just above & below where the hop goes in - tape on metal gearbox shell..... What you are trying to do is just part the hop a smidge away from its usual place that seals well pushing the hop a little forward should hopefully ensure the nozzle may not seal 101% perfectly against bucking in effect creating a slight leak or not such great seal in the hop or fps drop at chrono around 0.5mm - heck even 0.25mm can make the difference between a good seal and a GREAT seal you are just trying to ineffect drop fps from 350 to say 333 - aprox 5% but unfortunately you can't test the results without a chrono really but at least this is a temp drop and tape can always be removed (though you don't wanna keep messing about too much with tape on/off over time) but worth trying to drop fps slightly than leave spring cocked overnight besides after 3 to 6 months I'm sure the gun will easily be within Mall's limits anyway

they are everywhere, most in my mancave - kids old playroom next to garage most still in their box or have kept boxes so stacked up (high) my son has his own little armoury in his room (basically anything really good some how finds its way up there) always a gun or two in bits as I keep changing my mind/options of what to use/try next and yes I've always had this obsessive compulsion thingy was numerous consoles - especially rare ones then I had the notion buy another rare console to make it even more rare - f*ck sake get a grip duck !!! yup - really have a problem - think I must have a female "shoe/bag" gene or something (well I can be a tart at times) 7 FH's - well it was the first RIF I bought after ukara and we both wanted one when we first saw it so LWA ballsed up my order so Mack pointed me to Pro Airsoft and I bought 2 of them.... a while later Airsoft World had one left at a slightly cheaper price than others so bought that Then after a good month at work and selling some consoles I thought lets buy 3 - yes 3 from Z1 thinking I might pop down there with a free skirmish voucher to offset against silly purchase turns out those later 3 were the toned down version that fires slower than the original FH's - damn it really like the TopTech original FH's but got 3 lesser FH's I later found out still a nice gun but after that the novelty of the dinky m4 wore off so it was a silly daft purchase only bought the hc05 coz I felt compelled to get the new one to see how good it is - not great btw So with my luck on breaking things - which has improved a little btw I still set my limit on any gun to £150 (dsg was £155 and think a mk18 was £155 but £150 from Airsoftworld) I ain't good at this stuff - I really suck at it, but I like to break and mess with stuff I wouldn't do that to a TM but then I probably wouldn't buy a TM coz I know I'd probably just make it worse

Unicorn leah would approve of this

Glitter? I'm going whole hog... Femme fatale, my little pony/hello kitty stickers all the way!!!

Trishots are brilliant (any brand will do), as are TM 1911s and PX4s.

I believe he means AEGs and stuff - was merely a jest. I've seen a few people using AEPs. Tried one yonks ago for about 30 minutes but it's not the same; trigger response and that kick counts for quite a lot with a GBB and it has neither. I dunno.

If you've ever been to Epsom or heard stories of it, you'll know that there is no way of NOT calling hits, even for those that choose not too. The environment is so close (not to mention full auto being the norm) not calling isn't a option!But bloody good fun! Just going solo the once has goven me the confidence to never be shy of going solo again. Where about do you play?

Cheers dude

Knights meh lol, only play on Sundays unfortunately work commitments but I'll be there next week

Defcon 5 Endurance Plate Carrier and a double pistol pouch

Count me in fella,if you'll have me, I also play at special ops

if only there was a like button on here!

Possibly my favourite thread name in awhile.... That or good name for a 90's rapper

They will ask you to fire a few bb's through the chrono, which they will probably give you (or a M4 mag pre loaded if your gun is compatible). If they let you use your own bbs they will expect you to be honest about what weight they are. They will probably take an average figure over 5 to 10 shots. Takes but a minute.

Auto spell has incorrectly named thread sorry.. Was meant to read 'Chrono'

Yeah, i'm still too ill. Gutted!

1) - only tape it up if you shoot & scuba dive at same time (seriously unless you play in absolute pi$$ing down rain, monsoon, thunderstorms I think you will be ok) 2) - G&G's "should" last you a good while and are easy to fix/repair if the decent gearbox etc... goes pear shape (you may or may not think it was a good investment - if you have bought a number of $hit guns like moi you will have plenty to compare it with) 3) - a bit of your own accessories or what not, no real must "upgrades" are really required, yes you can boost this or that personally leave as is performance wise, if in a year's time she needs a little service or tlc then a tweak here n there perhaps Believe it or not, guns don't have to get upgrades asap - you can just get out and use them "as is" With any gun or upgrades - there is a line of where do you start/stop it is a good gun imho, the front sight can be removed easily to mount your own red dot the front battery compartment offers a good amount of battery room good G&G internals in there & is metal for any "must have metal" owners but tbh even the polymer G&G CM's hold up very well think your barrel is about 330mm which is a nice size 275 to 330 is perfect M4 size & not too long only bother to change barrel if you want to change the length really (ffs - don't think madbull tight bore barrel is a must have - personally I think they are over priced/rated anyway) and if you change barrel length by more than say a couple of inches you need to change cylinder perhaps your battery is a 9.6v nimah if using a 8 x 1.2v battery btw (or a 8.4v if 7 x 1.2v nimah cells) DO NOT JUST SHOVE IN A 11.1v LIPO in there a mosfet should be fitted if you want to go for higher juice but that can be considered later on if really needed shoving in a shs high speed motor is not advised without doing some internal tweaks/service (I snapped off the first pick up tooth running stock guns faster n faster with hi speed motors - TWICE I DID THIS - doooohhhhh) once your G&G's fps drops to say under 300, then "maybe" look at a service/tweak but for now leave it as is get out there & get shooting - in a friendly airsofting skirmish way I mean Later on - when she is not performing as expected then a service...... long term service may require very little money - more time & care.... New nozzle with o-ring - £4 to £5 aprox New piston o-ring - uhm get a packof 6 or 10 for a few quid I guess but check seals Angle of Engagement - couple of neoprene washers will be fine for most moderate builds - ergh few quid a pack of 10/25 (Sorbothane+Neoprene is best but unless you are going for long term high rof/fps neo will suffice) possible considerations.... New cylinder head or ptfe tape to ensure good seals bearing spring guide - helps to claw back some fps lost in AoE as well reduces spring twisting under tension new m100 spring if your old spring loses its mojo tension - after a while all springs lose a little tension maybe replace any of the worn 8mm bronzey G&G bushings - with better bushings and reshim box (perhaps additional shims required especially when using bearings - but really read up on this shimming coz it really matters) grease up inside when doing these - possible mosfet install at same time whilst box is open now box is serviced and running better - read up or get somebody a little mechanical to help you with it (takes pics, open box in bag - it may explode on you first time opening up - just do some research really) But for now just use it - just don't go buying loads n loads of bits like madbull bollox that you really won't need a few decent shs bits n bobs will do perfectly - its all in the fitting and care really I know this coz I've made and still making plenty of noobie mistakes

Their she is atacs fg got the combats aswell

Can't go to this one. Really hoping I can go to the next one though

There is a big medicalised push to improve shrapnel injury survival rates, plates have been great for torso injuries, developments with CATs Gucci bandages, quick clot, TXA ect for limbs as exanguating haemorrhages, but the biggest weakness are still the Neck and groin with the carotid and femoral arteries respectively.

I think there's a lot of misunderstandings regarding the tactics of light employment in this thread. Nobody who has even the faintest clue what they're doing ever walks around with a 300-500 lumen light set to constant on; or indeed turns on their light for any more than about half a second when there's any chance there might be enemy presence close by (and only then if it's really necessary). All my weapon lights are equipped with momentary-only switches/remote pads. When you need light to navigate, you have something small in the range of sub-50 lumens using red, green or blue and obviously use it as sparingly as possible but just as much as is necessary to not break your face on something. The light on your pistol or rifle will depend on your environment as if you're outside you want something brighter than if you're indoors (especially with white walls) but will generally be white and 200+ lumens. You use it in short, controlled bursts to highlight your target once you're actually engaged with said target, then fire and move inbetween firing the light to keep an eye on the enemy. If it's a strong light and they've been in the dark for even a minute or so it'll be disorienting to the enemy. Regardless of how much their eyes have adjusted the source of the light they're seeing won't be small enough to give an accurate aiming point; often quite the opposite and they'll likely see a very large cone of light. When combined with the fact you should be moving and they're trying to fire back while taking fire themselves, they shouldn't be able to get a proper bead on you at all, whereas you will have seen them clearly through proper employment of your light and will be able to get a precise aim on them. Not having a dig at anyone, but I think there will be lurkers who aren't familiar with this sort of thing as it's rarely mentioned in airsoft.

Next Bash is on 7-9 Aug at UCAP Sandpit for those interested there may still be a couple of spaces left.

Its fine mate no worries. It was nearly 3 years ago that I got sacked from that job. All in the past and many life lessons were learned.

Welcome. Nope, sniper rifles are not good for beginners. It's nothing like in games. You will be massively lit up by aeg users and you will feel miserable. Rent an AEG, try the game with that first. Bring your rifle with you and play one round with that to see what I'm talking about.

Sounds great, as long as you don't mind. I'm 100% going this weekend, so hopefully will get a little experience under my belt. I should be able to go next weekend, social diary permitting (not really, this post clearly states that's a lie lol) Fingers crossed, thanks very much!

As mentioned, airsoft players love talking about their loadouts (costs quite a bit and it gives an opportunity to talk about what they've done). Another interesting way is to have a pretty interesting loadout yourself! Although this is quite unnecessary, it will still turn heads if you've got something that looks pretty unique (in a good way). Maybe a few will come over and ask about it, just like what you could possibly do with them. Once you start really looking into guns, you can see just how different they really are, which makes interesting conversation. Best of luck with you! I too have no friends interested in airsoft (they have decided to spend their money monster PCs for gaming, or drugs... The latter being the people I don't usually talk to anymore, why buy drugs when you can get airsoft stuff!). Sure, curiosity is sparked when they see my guns but the price throws them off. It is fine to go alone, but try to start some small talk or something - it is easy with airsoft players. Just walk up and compliment their gun :L

Yeah, we need the blood. Err. I mean new blood. Come alone.

Thanks everybody - You seem like a nice bunch which is a good sign! I guess I'll just have to take the jump, otherwise I will never get to play!

the abbey gasses (Maintenance gas included) use UPL instead of silicone, which is better for storage as it stays dissolved in the gas preventing the gas from drying out and drawing the lubricant from your seals. adding silicone certainly helps by delaying the problem, but if you end up leaving your mags for more than a couple of weeks, maintenance gas might well save you having to break them down and fix your seals again. by the way, to add to my original list: Learn to break down the mags and fix your seals. its not usually a hard process, the G5 can be done by: -Empty the mags of gas -check the mag is empty of gas -triple check the mag has no gas in it -unscrew both inlet and knocker valves, drop them in silicone and leave them overnight -remove the magazine baseplate -find the bastard follower spring that flew off and the little nub that holds it straight -unscrew the two metal caps with a massive allen key -remove the o-rings from each cap and submerse them in the silicone, or just drop the whole thing in. -re-assemble and add gas immediately

How about treating them like people?

It makes me laugh when people advertise anything as 'brand new but only used once' soon as you buy something, it's no longer brand new but 2nd hand

I like lidl.

Not exactly known for being a fagpul fan, me... there are probably loads of hideous creations of theirs I've never heard of. I mean, I've nothing against Tupperware guns per se, but how is it that Heckler & Koch manage to make plastic look like it will fuck you up, whereas that looks like it comes in a box marked "Batteries Not Included"?