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This box just showed up

My most recent purchase! A Wolverine MTW 10" Forged edition. After a bit of swapping about between this and the Milspec, I opted for this in the end. Will make a build thread at some point!

Compare with the real Steel:

Started on my cowboy rig. One holster down, belt and crossdraw holster to do. This one does work standalone too.

Grey Lightweight Hi-capa carbine kit loadout.

I am quietly confident. After messing around with not one but two element peqs, the somogear ngal (v1) is pretty good, all things considered. Somogear are also quite hot on user feedback, indeed they didn't plan to release a "full IR" version of the peq and ngal till customers persuaded them, they've continued to take feedback on board and refine their products, which is pretty cool and dare i say, quite rare in this world. Fingers crossed...

The pdik and kythera operate completely differently cycle wise, the latter completes a full cycle whilst the pdik does half on trigger pull and half on release (A sort of explanation can be found here although I don't think the PDIK was created as a solenoid based system first, maybe he's referencing the Redline N7 in the video) - note the kythera has a reset system with that extra wire also. The key definition of a closed bolt HPA system is that the nozzle is locked forward before the trigger is pulled. On the older gen the nozzle would be held back and would seat and fire the BB when the trigger was pulled, resetting to an open position when releasing the trigger - hence open bolt. Hope that clears things up a bit!

Loving my new holster setup, Kydex Customs mid drop, KC basic holster, DIY thigh strap. Access/pistol grip to draw is awesome, no flapping around even with full steel pistol, no chaffing from strap, and you can sit down without knowing there’s a pistol. Im sure many others have been and done this before, but to those who haven’t it’s a great setup.

Cheeky sod

Decided to give pick n pluck a go, it’s not the greatest attempt, but got most things to fit! Also turns out my silencer fits the AK

FWIW I bought mine from Airsoftworld, they had the "new" ETU++'s in stock for a better price than the older ETU replacements so was well worth it. They literally are as easy as 2 spades and a data connector and you're done, a bit of tinkering around with settings. The pre-cocking is sweeeet and the binary function is a killer!

Shame the PTS MAWL is still nowhere to be seen.

yeh thats what the specs are on their website, lets hope they stick to them

Specs are/ should be: IR laser: 1mW/ 20mW Ir Ilum: 5mW/60mW Red laser: 5mW/25mW Green laser: 5mW/20mW

Aye this was the forerunner until we saw the dbals for a good price and jumped on them, also the zeroable IR illuminator Was this for the vis laser in green?

Apologies - you are quite right, I was referring to an older picture and the annotations are a bit funky.

Worth noting that that is for the visible lasers. I was sent a green laser version, not a red laser version, the former is listed as 4.9mW. It is.. disconcerting as it is fun to wave around. Deffo not something I'd use in a skirmish, even the reflection against cream wallpaper was uncomfortable! The IR laser is 1mW and the new version will be 1mW (low) and 5mW (high)

I doubt you'll have trouble selling it, as you say people seem to want them! As for the Somogear ones - they're still Class 3R (4-5mW according to their website) so safer but not entirely "safe" as such especially taking into consideration the aforementioned issues around IR lasers.

Truth, ppl be dumb sometimes (all the time in certain cases) I now have a conundrum of trying to mod the dbal for LED IR and a lower power laser, or selling it on and trying out the soon to be released SOMOGEAR PEQ or NGAL

Unprotected, not even once! Did a quick chrono yesterday, with a cardboard box filled with packaging material and even a towel as the backstop. One of the shots ricocheted and smacked me right at the bottom of the brow bone leaving a sore welt. It goes without saying had I been positioned even a CM to the left, that could have been a lot worse!

All I'll say is that you should all be looking into the trigger more than anything else. As much as I liked the v1 and as easy as it was to install, it had one of the worst triggers I've put in a DMR. It's not that bad vs. the whole pack (and was of course more responsive than most AEGs) but it was a bit spongy.

I think the wire is there to reset the system in case of low pressure or something of the sort and not to cock/load a round. I think you'll be dry firing one regardless of which system you grab! The trigger setup on the Kythera does look very nice though, all adjustable and that fun stuff, though like you said it's a fair whack more expensive. You can get a PDIK Gen 2 for less, or roughly the same price already fit into a gearbox (just need a selector plate and a trigger) from Mancraft themselves. And on top of that the Kythera is pretty much out of stock everywhere.

I'd presume the first thing it is doing (on the new version) when pulling the trigger is releasing the air in the chamber to fire and then pulling the nozzle back, with the trigger release pushing the nozzle forward and loading the BB. No first hand experience, though I'm toying with the idea of getting a newer gen one. Old gen (open bolt) - nozzle back > pull trigger > nozzle forward to load BB and air released to shoot > release trigger > nozzle back New gen (closed bolt) - nozzle forward > pull trigger > air released to shoot and then nozzle backwards > release trigger > nozzle forward to load BB I'd guess typically when you're reloading a closed bolt HPA system you'd end up dry firing once before you start shooting again as the nozzle being forward stops the first BB from entering the chamber.

There's quite a few people in the US using them for real steel shooting! I honestly highly doubt they're actually 10mW as that would firmly put it into Class 3B (https://www.lasersafetyfacts.com/laserclasses.html) which falls into "definitely not a toy" areas. They're highly sought after by NOD users in airsoft because they're about the only ones that actually allow you to accurately zero the laser properly! As for safety, a 5mW IR laser or illuminator can cause damage to the retina if you're close enough or exposed for too long. As there is no blink reflex to IR light the risk of this goes up massively. Of course you might just be the most careful guy inn the world and never point it at someone's face but that doesn't mean someone won't look round and get it full bore in the eye.

as others have mentioned, it depends where you're getting hit and what you're getting hit by. aside from the obvious eyes/face (which is why eyepro is mandatory and facepro is required for younger players) the 2 areas worth focusing on are ears and fingers. the latter can really smart if you get an unlucky hit. however if you're well wrapped up with decently heavy clothing and you're not trying to push right up next to the other team the vast majority of hits aren't going to be much more than a sting that fades away pretty quick. if you're engaging at the very edge of someone's range it's entirely possible for a hit to be so light you can barely feel it, i've played games in heavy rain where it was hard to distinguish between being hit by a raindrop and a bb.

Another new patch to add to my UKARA Police loadouts 😂

I had to google what an SL8 was and this came up.... Roof tiles Should I let them know they have been discontinued you think?

it's not even got the right hand guard!

To be honest looking at the specifications on both, the NanoHard gives you a few more options and only cost about a tenner more. my Titan 7.4v 3000 mah starts the day off at 8.3v and after 3-4000 rounds finishes up with around 7.9v left in the bank. I know some people have some issues with the Li-ion world but honestly for a £35 battery i would argue that it was a great investment

Not a gen 2 owner but have owned the old open bolt one for a couple of years. Has worked fine and dandy for me and have had no qualms about its accuracy even though it is an open bolt system. The newer version is closed bolt, at least based on a video of a prototype version on Facebook. I highly doubt they'd be lying about the operation of it though as it was one of the major selling points about the update. As for dimensions, no idea. You'd probably get an answer from then via email or Facebook though, they're not too shabby on that. Their website is a bit of a mess for descriptions and specs I'd agree. You'd be looking at a max length of the internals of a V2 gearbox though, from front to rear of where the piston/cylinder/spring, etc, sit. Edit: Judging by some design renders it's a bit shorter than that length, but dependent on version. Best off contacting them I'd reckon

Ignore the backdrop, area where we do 2nd hand photography is a state at the moment so it’s a back-room bodge! This was a Novristch SSP1 with a slide lock that would fall out (hilarious on the field) a thumb safety that would engage randomly (also hilarious on the field) and a slide that would rattle about so much that you could mistake the gun for a half full high capacity magazine. Now it’s a swish Tungsten-grey gnu with a handle on the side for faster pewing. I name it the Notritsch

Oh yea ! Wear it out in public acting as if there’s nothing wrong then when someone FINALLY asks about a baby you look down and shout “holy shit I left the baby on the train !” 😱 😈🤣😈🤣😈🤣😈🤣

You have obviously never been slapped by my good lady!!😫 lol Regards

【CUSTOM GBB WORKSHOP】 FN Browning Hi Power mk3 WE base deep marking, deep 0.3mm remove paint Handmade black dye

I got spam messages off the sl8 guy.